Use of a cosmetic composition to prevent and / or treat skin blackheads.

Abstract

Use of a cosmetic composition to prevent and / or treat blackheads. The present invention relates to the use of at least one C18 fatty acid or alcohol selected from isostearic acid, oleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof to solubilize all or part of the lipids constituting comedones and / or blackheads. It further relates to a corresponding cosmetic process. Figure: None

Description

Title of the invention: Use of a cosmetic composition for preventing and / or treating skin blackheads. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic products, more particularly intended for the prevention and / or treatment of skin blackheads.

[0002] It also relates to a cosmetic process, in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the skin to be treated of a composition containing at least one active ingredient in accordance with the invention. Prior art

[0003] Blackheads on the skin, particularly on the face, affect all skin types. Given their black or even brown color, they are very visible, especially on skin with little pigmentation, and as such are generally considered unsightly and therefore undesirable.

[0004] To date, it is accepted that the cutaneous blackhead results from the process of comedogenesis which affects the pilosebaceous units of the sebaceous follicle type, which are distributed mainly on the face. Clinically, a cutaneous blackhead is an open comedo (non-inflammatory lesion) characterized by distension of the hair canal, sebum retention and excessive cornification of the pilosebaceous canal. Hypercornification leads to sebum retention and the accumulation of cellular debris.

[0005] Solutions are already available to treat blackheads. These solutions generally target the accumulation of cellular debris and sebum retention by peeling the surface of the open comedo.

[0006] Some of these solutions consist of physical methods based on the use, for example, of comedone vacuums, comedone extractors or self-adhesive patches to remove. For obvious reasons, these methods are aggressive towards the skin, are not painless and are likely to generate unsightly redness or skin irritations.

[0007] Other solutions are based more particularly on the treatment of blackheads with an active ingredient capable of altering and / or removing them, in particular by acting on their coloring. As an illustration of these active ingredients, antioxidants such as glutathione (GSH), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), cysteine ​​described in the patent may be cited in particular. FR 3 044 905 Bl. A certain number of these active ingredients, however, have the disadvantage of altering the organoleptic properties of the composition comprising them, in particular the odor and / or the color of the composition, over time. Active agents have also been proposed that are capable of solubilizing lipids constituting blackheads, such as alkyl lactates, described in US patent 4,540,567, or neutralized fatty acids as described in application EP 3,150,187.

[0008] The present invention arises more particularly from the characterization by the inventors of new active ingredients which are particularly effective with regard to blackheads and which advantageously prove to be free from the aforementioned drawbacks. Summary of the invention

[0009] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one C18 fatty acid or alcohol, chosen from isostearic acid, oleic alcohol and their mixtures for solubilizing all or part of the lipids constituting comedones and / or cutaneous blackheads.

[0010] Thus, the cosmetic use of at least one C[8] fatty acid or alcohol, chosen from isostearic acid, oleic alcohol and their mixtures, proves to be particularly effective in preventing the appearance of skin blackheads and / or eliminating skin comedones and blackheads.

[0011] According to a particular variant, isostearic acid and / or oleic alcohol is used in combination with at least one fatty acid chosen from oleic, linolenic, linoleic, behenic, arachidonic and stearic acids and in particular with at least oleic acid.

[0012] As is apparent from the examples given below, the inventors have, against all expectations, found that isostearic acid and oleic alcohol prove capable of solubilizing lipid bodies constituting comedones and blackheads on the skin and therefore prove particularly effective in preventing the appearance of blackheads and / or eliminating these blackheads.

[0013] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for solubilizing all or part of the lipids constituting comedones and / or blackheads in the skin, comprising the application to the skin to be treated of at least one C18 fatty acid or alcohol, chosen from isostearic acid, oleic alcohol and their mixtures.

[0014] In particular, the cosmetic process in accordance with the invention is useful for preventing the appearance of skin blackheads and / or eliminating skin comedones and blackheads.

[0015] The cosmetic uses and methods considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0016] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "skin" means the entire skin of the body, excluding the scalp and mucous membranes. Preferably, the skin is the skin of the face and / or body, in particular the face and / or hands, preference of the face, and more particularly of the forehead and / or the wings of the nose and / or the chin.

[0017] According to a first variant, the skin is oily and / or shiny skin, in particular skin exhibiting excessive secretion and excretion of sebum. According to this variant, the skin is in particular oily and / or shiny skin, in particular of phototype 1, 2, 3 or 4, in particular oily and / or shiny skin of the face and / or hands, more particularly oily and / or shiny skin of the forehead, and / or the wings of the nose and / or the chin.

[0018] According to a second variant, the skin is non-acne skin, namely healthy skin devoid of the clinical manifestations of acne, namely acne lesions, such as the presence of numerous acne spots. Indeed, blackheads constitute cutaneous imperfections of the skin, distinct from skin conditions, such as acne. In particular, the blackhead is not an inflammatory lesion of the skin as opposed to the lesions characteristic of acne. Moreover, the areas of the face, conducive to the development of blackheads, namely more particularly the wings of the nose, do not constitute precisely preferred areas for the development of acne. Detailed description of the invention

[0019] Composition suitable for the invention

[0020] According to one aspect of the invention, isostearic acid, oleic alcohol or one of their mixtures is used in the form of a cosmetic composition containing it and suitable for topical application.

[0021] Advantageously, in this cosmetic use, the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even better from 0.5% to 5.0%, even more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight of isostearic acid and / or oleic alcohol relative to its total weight.

[0022] When isostearic acid and / or oleic alcohol are used in the form of a composition, they are formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium. Such a medium is considered physiologically acceptable when it does not generate tingling, pulling or unacceptable discomfort for the user.

[0023] As specified above, according to a particular variant, isostearic acid and / or oleic alcohol is used with at least one fatty acid chosen from oleic, linolenic, linoleic, behenic, arachidonic and stearic acids and in particular with at least oleic acid.

[0024] In this embodiment variant, a use according to the invention can use isostearic acid and / or oleic alcohol in association with at least one of the fatty acids cited previously in a weight ratio of isostearic acid and / or oleic alcohol / a fatty acid chosen from oleic, linolenic, linoleic, behenic, arachidonic, stearic acids and their mixtures varying from 10 / 90 to 90 / 10, 80 / 20 to 20 / 80, 40 / 60 to 60 / 40 or even 50 / 50.

[0025] According to a particular variant, a composition suitable for the invention contains at least isostearic acid and oleic acid, in particular in an isostearic acid / oleic acid weight ratio varying from 10 / 90 to 90 / 10, 80 / 20 to 20 / 80, 40 / 60 to 60 / 40 or even 50 / 50.

[0026] According to another particular variant, a composition suitable for the invention contains at least oleic alcohol and oleic acid, in particular in an oleic alcohol / oleic acid weight ratio varying from 10 / 90 to 90 / 10, 80 / 20 to 20 / 80, 40 / 60 to 60 / 40 or even 50 / 50.

[0027] According to another particular variant, a composition suitable for the invention contains at least isostearic acid, oleic acid and oleic alcohol, in particular in a weight ratio of isostearic acid + oleic alcohol / oleic acid varying from 10 / 90 to 90 / 10, 80 / 20 to 20 / 80, 40 / 60 to 60 / 40 or even 50 / 50.

[0028] A composition suitable according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

[0029] It may be in particular in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic, possibly gelled solution, a dispersion of the lotion type, possibly two-phase, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel, a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, in particular using spherules, these spherules being able to be polymeric particles or better, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or non-ionic type, or even in the form of a powder, a serum, a paste or a flexible stick or even a stick. It may be of solid, pasty, or more or less fluid liquid consistency.

[0030] Thus, the composition may comprise all the constituents usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0031] Mention may in particular be made of water, solvents, compounds forming a liquid fatty phase at room temperature, for example oils of mineral, animal and / or vegetable origin, waxes, in particular, pigments, fillers, surfactants, thickeners, gelling agents, preservatives, and their mixtures in all proportions.

[0032] A composition suitable for the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, in particular obtained by dispersing an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W / O) or a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or even of multiple emulsion (W / O / W or O / W / O). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

[0033] It can advantageously comprise at least one fatty phase which is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0034] Such a fatty phase may comprise at least one non-volatile ether oil having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms and / or at least one non-volatile monoester oil.

[0035] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “non-volatile oil” is understood to mean an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0036] As an example of ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, dicaprylic ether (CTFA name: Dicaprylyl ether) can be cited in particular.

[0037] As preferred monoesters, mention may in particular be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, preferably isononyl isononanoate.

[0038] The quantity of liquid fatty phase at room temperature and atmospheric pressure present in the compositions according to the invention and taking into account the quantities of isostearic acid, oleic alcohol and any other fatty acid capable of being associated with these, can range for example from 0.01 to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] The emulsions according to the invention may comprise at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.

[0040] Advantageously, the emulsifiers are chosen appropriately according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion which can range from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] For O / W emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include non-ionic surfactants, and in particular esters of polyols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, i.e. comprising oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated units, for example esters of glyceryl and of C8-C24 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C8-C24 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C8-C24 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglucose) and C8-C24 fatty acid esters, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar and C8-C24 fatty alcohol ethers, and their mixtures in all proportions.

[0042] A composition suitable for the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one silicone elastomer, in particular the products marketed under the names “KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil”, “BY29 » or “EPSX” by Dow Corning or under the names “Gransil” by Grant Industries.

[0043] A composition suitable for the invention may further contain one or more adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic field, in particular sequestering agents, odor absorbers, UV filters, perfumes, matting agents, and abrasive fillers or exfoliating agents, and mixtures thereof in all proportions.

[0044] A composition used according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one additional active ingredient.

[0045] By the expression "additional active ingredient" is meant, in the context of the present invention, a compound which has by itself, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an external agent to activate it, a biological activity which can be in particular: - a desquamating activity (which allows the opening of comedones), and / or - an anti-microbial activity (in particular on P. acnes), and / or - a soothing or anti-irritant activity, and / or - a sebum-regulating or anti-seborrheic activity, and / or - an astringent activity, and / or - an activity intended to combat and / or prevent the signs of aging, particularly chronobiological aging, for example wrinkles and fine lines.

[0046] The additional active agent usable in the compositions of the invention is preferentially chosen from solubilizing agents of additional lipid compounds, desquamating agents, soothing agents, anti-irritant agents, sebum-regulating or anti-seborrheic agents, astringent agents, and their mixtures in all proportions.

[0047] According to a particular variant, this additional agent is at least oleic acid.

[0048] It may also be at least one active ingredient for the care of oily skin.

[0049] The additional active ingredient for the care of oily skin used in a composition suitable for the invention may represent from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% and better still, from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] As particular examples of other additional active ingredients, mention may in particular be made of salicylic acid and pro-xylan, in particular extracted from rye seeds.

[0051] Furthermore, a composition used according to the invention may advantageously comprise from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 35 to 75% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0052] The pH of said composition is advantageously less than or equal to 8, preferably ranging from 4 to 7 limits inclusive, even better ranging from 4.5 to 6.5 limits inclusive.

[0053] A composition suitable for the invention may, in addition, comprise retinol, otherwise known as Vitamin A, preferably all-trans retinol.

[0054] More particularly, a composition suitable for the invention may comprise an amount of retinol ranging from 0.02% to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] Thus, a composition implemented in a use or a method according to the invention may comprise at least one active agent, in particular chosen from oleic acid, salicylic acid, pro-xylan, retinol, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] A composition suitable for the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one polyol, namely an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, in particular chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2-pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0057] A composition suitable for the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one gelling agent, in particular a hydrophilic gelling agent, namely a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions suitable for the invention. Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents that may be cited are crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

[0058] A composition suitable for the invention may also comprise at least one derivative of polyethylene glycol and mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of acid comprising at least one alkyl chain ranging from C6 to C16, and having at least two ethylene oxide groups, in particular chosen from derivatives of polyethylene glycol and mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of caprylic acid and capric acid, for example that comprising 6 ethylene oxide groups (INCI name: PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides), marketed under the name Softigen 767 by the company Sasol.

[0059] It may also comprise at least one coloring material chosen for example from pigments, pearlescent agents, dyes, effect materials and their mixtures in all proportions. These coloring materials may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] A composition suitable for the invention may further comprise at least one filler, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight. These fillers may be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic shape (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, or amorphous).

[0061] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible compound(s) ad additional, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the C[8] fatty acid and / or alcohol required according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition and that the properties of the resulting compositions are compatible with the topical route of administration.

[0062] A composition of the invention may advantageously have a firm and compact feel when taken. It may be thick upon application and then transform, melt and release freshness.

[0063] According to another variant, a composition of the invention can advantageously be presented in the form of a more or less wide stick such as a pencil for example.

[0064] A composition may alternatively have the form of a care or makeup product for the face and / or body, and be packaged for example in the form of a cream in a pot or a fluid in a tube or pump bottle.

[0065] A composition according to the invention can be manufactured by any known method generally used in the cosmetic field. The ingredients are mixed before being shaped, in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

[0066] Cosmetic Processes

[0067] As mentioned previously, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for solubilizing all or part of the lipids constituting cutaneous comedones and blackheads, comprising the application to the skin of a cosmetic composition comprising at least isostearic acid and / or oleic alcohol and, where appropriate, oleic acid.

[0068] Such a method proves to be particularly useful for preventing the appearance of blackheads and / or eliminating comedones and / or blackheads from the skin.

[0069] The cosmetic process of the invention is carried out by administering topically a composition comprising at least isostearic acid and / or oleic alcohol and, where appropriate, oleic acid, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0070] The administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques of use of these compositions.

[0071] By way of illustration, the cosmetic process according to the invention can be implemented by topical application, for example daily, of at least one fatty acid or alcohol in accordance with the invention which can be for example formulated in the form of a cream, gel, serum, lotion, emulsion, cleansing milk, stick or after-sun composition.

[0072] According to one embodiment, the application is repeated for example 2 to 3 times daily over one day or more and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of interruption.

[0073] According to another embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of interruption.

[0074] According to another embodiment, the composition containing at least isostearic acid and / or oleic alcohol and, where appropriate, oleic acid are applied to areas of skin previously cleaned, for example using a suitable soap, and / or previously freed from at least one blackhead, for example using an adhesive patch or mechanical action.

[0075] Furthermore, treatment combinations with possibly additional topical forms may be envisaged in order to complement or reinforce the activity of isostearic acid and / or oleic alcohol.

[0076] One could imagine a topical treatment with a composition containing at least isostearic acid and / or oleic alcohol associated with an additional composition dedicated to topical application and containing at least one separate active ingredient, isostearic acid and / or oleic alcohol.

[0077] According to an alternative embodiment, this distinct active ingredient is oleic acid.

[0078] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for solubilizing all or part of the lipids constituting comedones and / or blackheads on the skin, comprising: a) a step of applying to the skin a cosmetic composition comprising at least one C[8] fatty acid and / or alcohol chosen from isostearic acid, oleic alcohol or one of their mixtures; and b) a step of applying to said skin treated in a) a composition different from said composition of step a) and containing at least one active ingredient distinct from that of composition a).

[0079] Such a composition applied in step b) can be described as an “additional composition”.

[0080] Steps a) and b) defined above can be carried out simultaneously or successively.

[0081] This additional composition, different from the composition suitable for the invention, and applicable topically, may in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsified gel, comprising at least one compound chosen from oleic acid, retinol; polyols, hydrophilic gelling agents, polyethylene glycol derivatives and mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of acid comprising at least one alkyl chain ranging from C6 to C16, and having at least two ethylene oxide groups; non-volatile ether oils having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; and non-volatile monoester oils.

[0082] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless the opposite is specified.

[0083] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

[0084] Materials and methods

[0085] The solubilizing efficacy of the tested compounds was evaluated by targeting the solubilization of palmitic acid, which is the fatty acid predominantly present in blackheads, according to the following protocols:

[0086] 1) By DSC measurement

[0087] To evaluate the good solvent potential of a raw material with respect to palmitic acid, DSC measurements were carried out considering mixtures according to the following weight ratio: 20% by weight of palmitic acid + 80% by weight of the compound to be tested.

[0088] The measurements are carried out on a DSC Q100 TA Instrument, in stainless steel crucibles of approximately 20 pL high pressure with a sealing joint.

[0089] The crucible containing the sample to be characterized is introduced into an oven at room temperature and then equilibrated at 10°C. It is then heated to 80°C with a ramp at 5°C / min. An isotherm is applied for 5 min. This first cycle represents the first melting of the palmitic acid. Then a temperature decrease to 10°C with a ramp of 5°C / min. This second cycle marks the recrystallization of the palmitic acid. Finally the crucible is heated to 80°C with a ramp at 5°C / min. This last cycle represents the second melting of the palmitic acid. The objective of this measurement is to identify whether the tested compound is a good solvent for palmitic acid by shifting the melting peak to a lower temperature at the second melting. The percentage of palmitic acid melted at 32°C (skin surface temperature) could thus be determined for each compound tested as a solvent.

[0090] 2) Characterization of the solubilization of palmitic acid by micro observation scopic in the presence of palmitic acid + the compound to be tested.

[0091] Microscopic observations are carried out between slide and coverslip using a Leica DMLB microscope which is used in transmission. Sample preparation consists of placing 0.0017g of palmitic acid then a drop of the compound to be tested on a slide with spacer placed on a heating stage at 32°C during microscopic observation (at 10x magnification) over a total period of 24 hours. The solubilization state of the palmitic acid crystals is characterized by microscopic observation (10x).

[0092] 3) Characterization of the solubilization of lipid components of comedones by microscopic observation.

[0093] Sample preparation was carried out with exactly the same equipment and methodology considered for protocol 2) by replacing the palmitic acid with an ex vivo comedo. An alteration in the density of the comedo, exposed to contact with the compound to be tested, is indicative of an alteration in the integrity of this comedo and therefore of the solubilization efficiency of the compound tested.

[0094] Table 1 below shows the results obtained for isostearic acid, oleic alcohol and oleic acid.

[0095] [Tables 1] Compound tested (%'{F palmitic acid' melted*at* 32°C)â Microscopic* observation' (compound 'tested ■ palmitic acid)c Microscopic' observation^ (compound "tested ■+ * comedo^ Oleic acid^ (W-OCENOL-80 / 85V-from-BASF'P 36.47%$ 61f; -Solubilization-in-majority-(It tests ■ only -the -large * crystals)^] 24114-Complete* solubilization* Altàutioirnotablc ■ of-the-density-of-the-comedone-* Eps acid té^ (PRISORINE-35Q5-LQ-( GD) -from -Croda)s 42.41%* 6hc: - Solubilization -in -majority ■(Only the large crystals remain)^ 241f:-Complete * solubilization^ Significant alteration • of the density of the comedo* Oleic alcohol^ ■(PALMAC750?MBde5 lOI-ACIDCHEM)^ 45.16%* Complete -solubilization -from -6h$ Significant alteration -of the density of the comedo^

[0096] As is evident from the above results, isostearic acid and oleic alcohol reveal the most significant efficacies with regard to the solubilization of lipids constituting comedones. When brought into contact with each of these two compounds, the comedones lose density and therefore decrease in volume.

[0097] Oleic acid, although less effective, also has a solubilizing power with regard to the lipids constituting comedones.

Claims

Claims

1. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one C[8] fatty acid or alcohol chosen from isostearic acid, oleic alcohol and mixtures thereof for solubilizing all or part of the lipids constituting comedones and / or blackheads on the skin.

2. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 1 for preventing the appearance of skin blackheads and / or eliminating comedones and / or skin blackheads.

3. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 1 or 2 using said C[8] fatty acid and / or alcohol in combination with at least one fatty acid chosen from oleic, linolenic, linoleic, behenic, arachidonic and stearic acids and in particular with at least oleic acid.

4. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims wherein said C 18 fatty acid and / or alcohol is implemented in the form of a cosmetic composition intended for topical application.

5. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to the preceding claim, wherein said composition contains from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even better from 0.5% to 5.0%, even more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight of isostearic acid and / or oleic alcohol relative to its total weight.

6. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to any one of claims 4 or 5, wherein said cosmetic composition further comprises at least one additional active ingredient, in particular chosen from oleic acid, salicylic acid, pro-xylan, retinol, and mixtures thereof and preferably at least oleic acid.

7. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for solubilizing all or part of the lipids constituting comedones and / or blackheads on the skin, comprising: a) a step of applying to the skin a cosmetic composition comprising at least one C18 fatty acid or alcohol, chosen from isostearic acid, oleic alcohol and mixtures thereof. and b) a step of applying to said skin treated in a) a composition different from said composition of step a) and containing at least one active ingredient distinct from said fatty acid and / or alcohol, said composition comprising at least one compound chosen from oleic acid,

8. retinol, polyols, hydrophilic gelling agents, and derivatives of polyethylene glycol and mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of acid having at least one alkyl chain ranging from C6 to C16, and having at least two ethylene oxide groups. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process according to the preceding claim for preventing the appearance of skin blackheads and / or eliminating comedones and / or skin blackheads.