Hair compositions and styling processes
Hair styling compositions with sucrose esters and other ingredients enhance curl elongation and definition, addressing the limitations of traditional products by providing effective curl lengthening and manageability without greasiness or damage.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2021007846
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-07-21
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-26
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-07-21
AI Technical Summary
Traditional hair lengthening products, such as heavy formulations and chemical treatments, often leave a greasy feel, flake off, or damage hair, and require frequent washing, failing to provide desirable curl elongation, definition, and manageability without scalp irritation.
Hair styling compositions containing sucrose esters, nonionic polysaccharide thickening agents, cationic surfactants, and emulsifiers, optionally with C3-C8 polyols and fatty compounds, enhance curl elongation while providing curl definition, hold, softness, and frizz control.
The compositions effectively elongate hair curls, improve curl definition and hold, enhance softness and smoothness, and reduce frizz, without the drawbacks of traditional methods, offering a more manageable and visually lengthened appearance.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Hair styling compositions and methods technical field
[0001] This disclosure relates to hair styling compositions and processes. The compositions enhance the elongation of hair curls while simultaneously providing hair with benefits such as curl definition, curl hold, softness, smoothness, and / or frizz control. The disclosure also relates to kits comprising the compositions and processes for using the compositions. CONTEXT
[0002] Curly hair generally appears shorter than its actual length. In the multicultural beauty market, there is a desire for products that can lengthen curls and give hair more visual length. Furthermore, reducing the curl pattern of very curly hair can increase its manageability and ease of styling.
[0003] Traditional curl-lengthening products generally include heavy formulations or oils, which typically leave a greasy or oily feeling. Hold-enhancing products, such as styling gels, can also provide lengthening effects, but these products typically flake off the hair. Consequently, the use of these lengthening products generally requires frequent washing, which may be undesirable for consumers with strong curls who prefer a limited number of washes per week. Furthermore, traditional hair lengthening, including straightening or smoothing, generally involves a chemical treatment that can damage the hair fibers and / or irritate the scalp.
[0004] As it stands, consumers want new and improved styling compositions capable of visibly lengthening hair curls and, at the same time, giving hair various other advantageous properties, such as good curl definition, good curl hold, hair hydration, softness, smoothness, good bounce, good shine and / or frizz control.
[0005] It has now been discovered in an astonishing way that compositions comprising at least one sucrose ester are capable of improving the elongation of hair curls and, at the same time, of providing curl definition and hold, as well as other benefits such as hair hydration, softness and / or frizz control. SUMMARY
[0006] This disclosure relates to hair styling compositions that may provide beneficial effects, such as curl elongation, to hair. The compositions are optionally leave-in hair styling compositions. The compositions may include (a) at least one sucrose ester; (b) at least one nonionic polysaccharide thickening agent; (c) at least one cationic surfactant; and (d) at least one emulsifier selected from fatty alcohols, esters, or combinations thereof. Optionally, the compositions may further include (e) at least one C3-C8 polyol selected from diols and triols and / or (f) at least one fatty compound, for example, a vegetable oil.
[0007] The at least one sucrose ester may be selected from among sucrose monoesters, sucrose diesters, sucrose triesters, and sucrose polyesters, such as sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose polystearate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose dipalmitate, or mixtures thereof. The at least one sucrose ester may be present in the compositions in an amount of at least 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example, from about 4% to about 30%, from about 5% to about 15%, or from about 6% to about 9%.
[0008] The at least one non-ionic polysaccharide thickening agent may optionally be chosen from gums, celluloses, starches or mixtures thereof, and may be present in a range from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, such as for example about 0.1% to about 5%, or about 0.5% to about 2.5%.
[0009] The at least one cationic surfactant may be selected from among amidoamines, quaternary monoalkylamines, quaternary dialkylamines, polyquatemiums, their salts or mixtures thereof. The at least one cationic surfactant may be present in a range from approximately 0.1% to approximately 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, such as, for example, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 5%.
[0010] The at least one emulsifier may be selected from alkoxylated or non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, may be liquid or solid, and may optionally be hydrogenated. The at least one emulsifier may be selected from glyceryl esters, for example, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C4-C50 dicarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol, aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid, or mixtures thereof. At least one emulsifier may be selected from non-glyceryl esters, for example isopropyl esters, cetyl esters, or fatty acid esters. Mixtures of any of the above may also be selected. The emulsifier may be present in a range from approximately 0.01% to approximately 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 5%, or from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%.
[0011] If present, the at least one C3-C8 polyol chosen from among the diols and triols may, for example, be chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerin, diglycerin, caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycols, or mixtures thereof, and may be present in an amount of at least about 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, for example from about 3% to about 8%, or from about 4% to about 7%.
[0012] If present, at least one fatty compound may be chosen from vegetable oils, hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, fatty acids and their esters, waxes, triglycerides, lanolins, alkanes, petrolatum, paraffins, fatty alcohols other than those described above, their derivatives, or mixtures thereof, and may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, such as for example about 1% to about 10%, or about 2% to about 7%.
[0013] In an exemplary and non-limiting embodiment, the compositions comprise (a) about 4% to about 25%, by weight, of at least one sucrose ester; (b) about 0.01% to about 5% of at least one non-ionic polysaccharide thickening agent; (c) about 0.1% to about 10%, by weight, of at least one cationic surfactant; (d) about 0.5% to about 10%, by weight, of at least one emulsifier selected from fatty alcohols, esters or combinations thereof; (e) optionally, about 3% to about 15%, by weight, of at least one C3-C8 polyol selected from diols and triols; and (f) optionally, about 1% to about 10%, by weight, of at least one fatty compound.
[0014] In another exemplary and non-limiting embodiment, the compositions comprise (a) at least one sucrose ester selected from sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose polystearate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose dipalmitate, or combinations thereof; (b) at least one nonionic polysaccharide thickening agent selected from gums, celluloses, starches, or combinations thereof; (c) at least one cationic surfactant selected from ami-domines, quaternary monoalkylamines, quaternary dialkylamines, polyquaternium compounds, their salts or combinations thereof; (d) at least one emulsifier selected (e) optionally, at least one C3-C8 polyol selected from diols and triols; and (f) optionally, at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils.
[0015] In another exemplary and non-limiting embodiment, the compositions comprise (a) about 4% to about 10%, for example about 5% to about 8%, by weight, of at least one sucrose ester selected from sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose polystearate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose dipalmitate, or combinations thereof; (b) about 0.1% to about 5%, such as about 1% to about 3%, by weight, of at least one non-ionic polysaccharide thickening agent selected from gums, celluloses, starches, or combinations thereof; (c) of about 0.1% to about 5%, such as about 1% to about 3%, by weight, of at least one cationic surfactant selected from quaternary monoalkylamines, quaternary dialkylamines, polyquaternium compounds, their salts, or combinations thereof; (d) of about 0.1% to about 5%, such as about 0.(e) 5% to about 3%, by weight, of at least one emulsifier selected from fatty alcohols, glyceryl esters or combinations thereof; (e) optionally, from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 3% to about 8%, by weight, of at least one C3-C8 polyol selected from diols and triols; and (f) optionally, from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 3% to about 8%, by weight, of at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils.
[0016] The disclosure also relates to methods of using the compositions, for example, hair styling methods, curl elongation methods, methods for visually lengthening hair, or frizz reduction methods, in which the methods include applying the composition to wet, damp, or dry hair. Optionally, the compositions are left on the hair for a period of a few hours to a few days, for example, until the hair is washed. The methods provide styling benefits for the hair, such as curl elongation, curl definition, frizz control, smoothness, and / or softness.
[0017] The disclosure also relates to necessities including the compositions. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0018] The attached drawings, which are incorporated herein and form part of this memorandum, illustrate exemplary embodiments of the disclosure and, together with the general description given above and the description provided herein, serve to explain particular features of the disclosure.
[0019] [Fig. 1] Fig. 1 shows images from a half-head study comparing the com- positions in table 1.
[0020] [Fig.2] Fig.2 is a graph showing the average lengthening of curls obtained by treating hair with the compositions in Table 2.
[0021] It is understood that the preceding and following descriptions are merely illustrative and explanatory, and are not intended to restrict any claimed subject matter. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0022] The disclosure relates to hair styling compositions, such as curl lengthening and / or reducing the degree of hair frizz, as well as kits including the compositions, and methods of using the compositions. I. Compositions
[0023] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one sucrose ester; (b) at least one nonionic polysaccharide thickening agent; (c) at least one cationic surfactant; (d) at least one emulsifier selected from fatty alcohols, esters, or combinations thereof; (e) optionally at least one C3 Cx polyol selected from diols and triols; and (f) optionally at least one fatty compound.
[0024] The compositions according to the disclosure may improve the elongation of the hair curl and, in at least some embodiments, may provide additional benefits such as curl definition, curl hold, softness, smoothness and / or frizz control to the hair. Sucrose esters
[0025] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one sucrose ester. In some embodiments, the compositions may comprise at least two sucrose esters, or more.
[0026] Sucrose esters, also called sugar esters or fatty acid sucrose esters, are molecules containing a sucrose moiety attached to a fatty acid. Sucrose esters can be synthesized by direct esterification of sucrose with a fatty acid, or by transesterification reaction of sucrose with a fatty acid ester.
[0027] According to some embodiments, suitable sucrose esters may include those having at least one attached fatty acid fraction and may be selected from sucrose monoesters, sucrose diesters, sucrose triesters, and sucrose polyesters. Non-limiting examples include sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose polystearate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose dipalmitate, or mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, at least one sucrose ester is selected from sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, or a a mixture of these.
[0028] In various exemplary embodiments, at least one sucrose ester may be present in the compositions in an amount of at least 4% by weight, such as at least 5%, at least 6%, at least 6.5%, at least 6.8%, or at least 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In exemplary embodiments, at least one sucrose ester may be present in an amount ranging from about 4% to about 30% by weight, including all intermediate ranges, such as about 4% to about 25%, about 4% to about 20%, about 4% to about 15%, about 4% to about 10%, about 5% to about 25%, about 5% to about 20%, about 5% to about 15%, about 5% to about 10%, about 6% to about 30%, about 6% to about 25%, about 6% to about 20%, about 6% to about 15%, about 6% to about 10%, about 6.5% to approximately 30%, from approximately 6.5% to approximately 25%, from approximately 6.5% to approximately 20%, from approximately 6.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 6.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 7% to approximately 30%, from approximately 7% to approximately 25%, from approximately 7% to approximately 20%, from approximately 7% to approximately 15%, or from approximately 7% to approximately 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a particular embodiment, at least one sucrose ester is present in an amount of at least 6.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges thereof. Non-ionic polysaccharide thickening agents
[0029] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one nonionic polysaccharide thickening agent (also called a thickener or viscosity-modifying agent). Polysaccharide thickening agents are polymers that have monosaccharides or disaccharides as basic units. Polysaccharide thickening agents that may be used in the compositions according to this disclosure include, by way of example only, gums, celluloses, and starches.
[0030] Non-limiting examples of gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, camitin, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum and biosaccharide gum. Modified gums or gum derivatives can also be used, such as deacylated gellan gum, welan gum, or hydroxypropyl guar gum, like Jaguar HP 105 sold by Rhodia.
[0031] Non-limiting examples of celluloses include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, or hydropropylcelluloses, which may or may not contain a fatty chain. A particularly suitable hydroxypropylmethylcellulose is Methocel F4M sold by Dow Chemicals (INCI name: hydroxypropylmethylcellulose).Modified celluloses with groups comprising one or more non-ionic fatty chains that can be used include hydroxyethylcelluloses, preferably non-ionic hydroxyethylcelluloses, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22 alkyl groups, such as the product NATROSOLTM Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls), sold by Aqualon, corresponding to the INCI name cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, or the product BERMOCOLL® EHM 100 sold by Berol Nobel, and those modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER® HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by Amerchol which corresponds to the INCI name nonoxynyl hydroxyethylcellulose.
[0032] Non-limiting examples of starches include modified starches, starch-based polymers, methylhydroxypropyl starch, potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, starch crosslinked with octenyl succinic anhydride, starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch.
[0033] In various exemplary embodiments, the total amount of at least one nonionic polysaccharide thickening agent may vary, but typically falls within a range of about 0.1% to about 10%, including all intermediate ranges, for example, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. Cationic surfactants.
[0034] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one ca- surfactant tionic. The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only cationic groups. In some embodiments, cationic surfactants are plant-based and / or organic.
[0035] In some embodiments, a cationic surfactant may be chosen from among the amidoamine compounds (or the amidoamines).Examples of amidoamines that are useful in the compositions of this disclosure include, but are not limited to, the following: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isos-tearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamin-dopropyl dimethylamine, sojaamidopropyl dimethylamine, bleamidopropyl dimethylamine, sunflower seed amidopropyl dimethylamine, amandeamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocado amidopropyl dimethylamine, babassuamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, visonamidopropyl dimethylamine, avoi-neamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0036] In some other embodiments, a cationic surfactant may be chosen from quaternary monoalkylamines, quaternary dialkylamines, or polyquatemium compounds or their salts.
[0037] For example, a cationic surfactant may be selected from Polyquaterium-10 (also called quatemized polyhydroxyethylcellulose), cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, steartrimonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium methosulfate, olealkonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, babassuamidopropalkonium chloride, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, Quaternium-91, Polyquatemium-37 (e.g., under the brand name SALCARE), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-87, Polyquatemium-4, Polyquatemium-6, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquatemium-44, Polyquaternium-67, Amodi-methicone, lauryl betaine, crosslinked polymer-1, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, aminopropyl dimethicone, Quaterium-8, and PEG-7 dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine phosphate.
[0038] In certain embodiments, a suitable cationic surfactant may be selected from polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-32, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-51, poly- quatemium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, poly-quatemium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, poly-quatemium-60, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, poly-quatemium-66, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-70, polyquaternium-73, poly-quatemium-74, polyquaternium-75, polyquaternium-76, polyquaternium-77, poly-quatemium-78, polyquaternium-79, polyquaternium-80, polyquaternium-81, poly-quatemium-82, polyquaternium-84, polyquaternium-85, polyquaternium-86, poly-quatemium-87, polyquaternium-90, polyquaternium-91, polyquaternium-92, poly-quatemium-94, ou chlorure de guar hydroxypropyltrimonium, et leurs mélanges. Dans un mode de réalisation, le tensioactif cationique est choisi parmi Polyquatemium-67, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquatemium-37, ou leurs mélanges.Polyquaternium-37 may be commercially available from BASF under the brand name SALCARE SC 96 (comprising polyquaternium-37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6).
[0039] In some embodiments, at least one cationic surfactant in the compositions comprises behentrimonium chloride. In some other embodiments, at least one cationic surfactant is selected from cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyl-dime-thylamine, or a combination thereof..
[0040] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants may also include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, cetylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quatemium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride (Quatemium-14), hectorite Quatemium-22, Quatemium-26, Quatemium-18, dimethylaminoethyl chloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium phosphate POE (10) oleyl ether, diethanolammonium phosphate POE (3) oleyl ether, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammonium bentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laur- trimonium, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethylpropylenediamine dihydrofluoride, tallow-trimonium chloride and hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide.
[0041] In some embodiments, at least one cationic surfactant is selected from polyoxyalkylated primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, or mixtures thereof. In some cases, it is useful to use salts such as chloride salts of quaternary ammonium compounds. The fatty amines may comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0042] In certain embodiments, suitable quaternary ammonium salts may be those of formula (I):
[0043] in which:
[0044] the R8 to RI 1 groups are chosen independently from linear or branched aliphatic groups containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as an aryl or an alkylaryl, at least one of the R8 to RI 1 groups including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the linear or branched aliphatic groups being able to include heteroatoms such as, for example, oxygen, nitrogen and / or sulfur, these heteroatoms not being adjacent, and halogens; and
[0045] X is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides such as bromides, chlorides, iodides, fluorides, phosphates, acetates, lactates,
[0046] C1-C4 alkylsulfates, C1-C4 alkylsulfonates or C1-C4 alkylarylsulfonates;
[0047] the alkyl groups in C1-C30, alkoxy in C1-C30, polyoxyalkylene in C2-C6, al-kylamide in C1-C30, alkylamido in C2-C6, alkyl acetate in C12-C22 and hydroxyalkyl in C1-C30.
[0048] Exemplary embodiments of formula (V) include tetraalkylammonium halides, such as chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as from 14 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples include behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (behentrimonium chloride), distearyl-dimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrime- thylammonium (cetrimonium chloride) or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride.
[0049] In some embodiments, the compounds of formula (I) may include palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or stearamidopropyl-dimethyl-(myristyle acetate)-ammonium halides, such as chlorides, for example the product sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the Van Dyk company.
[0050] In some embodiments, the cationic surfactants of formula (I) are preferably chosen from among the alkyltrimethylammonium halides whose alkyl group includes from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as from 14 to 20 carbon atoms. For example, alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, may be particularly useful.
[0051] In other embodiments, quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (II) may be chosen: rr < n) $5 ..A... ] X J
[0052] in which:
[0053] R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 atoms of carbon, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
[0054] R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or a group alkenyl or alkyl comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
[0055] R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,
[0056] RI5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and
[0057] X is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Cl-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)- or (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
[0058] In an exemplary embodiment of formula (II), R12 and R13 represent a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived, for example, from tallow fatty acids; R14 represents a methyl group; and RI5 represents a hydrogen atom. Such a product may be sold, for example, under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company Evonik.
[0059] In other embodiments, di- or triquaternary ammonium salts of formula (III) can be chosen: (HD
[0060] in which
[0061] R16 represents an alkyl group comprising 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,
[0062] R17 represents hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 atoms of carbon, or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a),
[0063] R16a, R17a and R18a, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0064] R18, R19, R20, and R21, whether identical or different, represent hydrogen or a alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
[0065] X is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Cl-C4)alkyl- and (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, for example methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
[0066] Such compounds are, for example, FINQUAT® CT-P (Quaternium 89) and FINQUAT® CT (Quaternium 75), sold by the company Finetex.
[0067] In other embodiments, quaternary ammonium salts comprising one or more ester functions can be chosen, such as those of formula (IV): o <IV)
[0068] in which:
[0069] R22 is selected from among the C1-C6 alkyl groups and the hydroxyalkyl or di- groups C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl,
[0070] R23 is chosen from the R26-C(=O)- group; the hydrocarbon groups in C1-C22 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and a hydrogen atom,
[0071] R25 is selected from the R28-C(=O)- group; the C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and a hydrogen atom,
[0072] R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched,
[0073] r, s and t, whether identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
[0074] rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1,
[0075] y is an integer between 1 and 10,
[0076] x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, and
[0077] X is an anion;
[0078] it being understood that r² + rl = 2r and tl + t² = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z is between 1 and 15, it being understood that when x = 0 then R²³ is chosen from among the hydro groups carbons in C1-C22, and that when z=0 then R25 designates a C1-C6 hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0079] In exemplary embodiments of formula (IV), the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and are preferably linear. Preferably, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x+y+z is between 1 and 10. When R23 is a C1-C22 hydrocarbon group, it may preferably comprise either 12 to 22 carbon atoms or 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26, and R28, whether identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched Cl1-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Optionally, y is equal to 1.Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and optionally are equal to 2.
[0080] The X- anion is preferably a halide, optionally a chloride, bromide or iodide, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonate or (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion bearing an ester functional group. In some embodiments, Fanion X- is a chloride, methyl sulfate, or ethyl sulfate.
[0081] For example, ammonium salts of formula (IV), in which R22 is a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2, R23 is selected from the R26-C(=O)- group, methyl, ethyl, or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, and a hydrogen atom; R25 is selected from the R28-C(=O)- group, and a hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups. In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
[0082] Among the compounds of formula (IV), examples include salts, particularly chloride or methyl sulfate salts, diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
[0083] These cationic surfactants can be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated, with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids, such as those of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification can be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, for example methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, for example dimethyl or diethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin, or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names DEHYQUART® by Henkel, STEPANQUAT® by Stepan, NOXAMIUM® by CECA or REWOQUAT® WE 18 by Evonik.
[0084] In some embodiments, at least one cationic surfactant may be selected from, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester, and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts. In one embodiment, the cationic surfactant(s) may be selected from ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group as described in US Patent Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180. In one embodiment, at least one cationic surfactant may comprise behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by Kao under the name QUARTAMIN® BTC 131.
[0085] Suitable cationic surfactants may further include those whose structure conforms to the general formula below: (V), R4-A-R5-B.
[0086] wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms, R5 is a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, A is selected from: 0 - 0--Q
[0087] or OH
[0088] and B is chosen from compounds of formula (VI): c <vi>' R® I — NI
[0089] wherein R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, are selected from H, an alkyl chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a dihydroxylalkyl chain having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; or compounds of formula (VII): """ N """ R jo X
[0090] in which R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, are chosen from an alkyl chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a dihydroxylalkyl chain having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; in which R10 is chosen from an alkyl chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a dihydroxylalkyl chain having 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0091] In some cases, in formula (V), R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and R5 is a linear or branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and A, B, R6 to R10 are the same as above.
[0092] Suitable, non-limiting examples include stearyloxypropymine, palmityloxy-propymine, stearyloxypropyldimethymine, stearyloxypropyldiethymine, stearyloxyethyldimethymine, stearyloxyethymine, myristyloxypropymine, myristyloxypropyldimethymine, palmitamidopropylamine, palmitamidopropyl methylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dibutylamine, palmitamidopropyl butylamine, palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl amine, lauramidopropyl methylamine, lauramidopropyl diethylamine, lauramidopropyl dibutylamine, lauramidopropyl buylamine, lauramidopropyl dipropylamine, lauramidopropyl propylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, stearamidopropylamine,stéaramidopropyl dimé-thylamine, stéaramidopropyl diéthylamine, stéaramidopropyldibutylamine, stéaramidopropyl butylamine, stéaramidopropyl dipropylamine, béhénamidopropyl pro- , pylamine, béhénamidopropyl dihydroxyéthylamine, béhénamidopropyl hydroxyé-thylamine, béhénamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, béhénamidopropyl hydroxypro-pylamine, béhénamidopropyl amine, béhénamidopropyl méthylamine, béhénamidopropyl diéthylamine, béhénamidopropyl dibutylamine, béhénamidopropyl bu-tylamine, béhénamidopropyl dipropylamine, béhénamidopropyl propylamine, béhénamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, béhénamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, béhénamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, béhénamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmita-midopropyl méthylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl éthylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl bu-tylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl propylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxyéthylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauramidopropyl amine, dilaurami-dopropyl méthylamine, dilauramidopropyl buylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxyéthylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, distéaramidopropyl amine, distéa-ramidopropyl méthylamine, dibéhénamidopropyl propylamine,dibehenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenamidopropyl trihydroxyethylmonium chloride, distearylamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dice-tylamidodihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, palmitoylpropyl amine, palmitoylpropyl methylamine, palmitoylpropyl diethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dibutylamine, palmitoylpropyl butylamine, palmitoylpropyl dipropylamine, palmitoylpropyl propylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, myris-toylpropyl amine, myristoylpropyl methylamine, myristoylpropyl diethylamine, myris-toylpropyl dibutylamine, myristoylpropyl butylamine, myristoylpropyl dipropylamine, myristoylpropyl propylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine myristoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine,stearoylpropylamine, stearoylpropyl methylamine, stearoylpropyl diethylamine, stearoylpropyl dibutylamine, stearoylpropyl butylamine, stearoylpropyl dipropylamine, behenylpropyl propylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, be-henylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl amine, behenylpropyl methylamine, behenylpropyl diethylamine, behenylpropyl dibutylamine, behenylpropyl butylamine, behenylpropyl dipropylamine, behenylpropyl propylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl methylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl ethylamine, dipalmitylpropyl butylamine dipalmitylpropyl propylamine, di-palmitylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilau-roylpropyl amine, dilauroylpropyl methylamine, dilauroylpropyl buylamine, dilau-roylpropyl hydroxyethylamine,dilauroylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearylpropyl, amine, distearylpropyl methylamine, dibehenylpropyl propylamine, dibehenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitylpropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearylpropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenylpropyl trihydroxyethylmonium chloride, distearylpropyl dimethylammonium chloride, dicetyldihydroxyethylammonium chloride, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
[0093] In some embodiments, a cationic surfactant may be chosen from among cationizable surfactants such as fatty alkylamines, preferably fatty dialkylamines. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl suifamine, dimethyl sojaamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0094] Fatty dialkylamines include fatty amidoamine compounds, their salts and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethymine, li-noleamidopropyl dimethymine, isostearamidopropyl dimethymine, stearamidopropyl dimethymine, oleylhydroxyethylimidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethymine, behena-midopropyldimethymine, behenamidopropyldimethymine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myris-tamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine and palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0095] Non-polymer mono-, di-, and / or tricarboxylic acids can be used to "neutralize" fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the non-polymer mono-, di-, and / or tricarboxylic acid(s) include at least one dicarboxylic acid. In some embodiments, a carboxylic acid can be selected from lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid, or mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, lactic acid, tartaric acid or mixtures thereof are used, in particular in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0096] The compositions according to the disclosure may be formulated such that two or more cationic surfactants are associated with identical or different balancing anionic ions. For example, at least one of the two or more cationic surfactants may have a chloride ion and / or a sulfate ion. In some embodiments, the two or more cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride, Behentrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium chloride, or a combination thereof. In some other embodiments, the two or more cationic surfactants comprise behentrimonium chloride and one or both of behentrimonium methosulfate and cetrimonium chloride.
[0097] In various embodiments, the total amount of at least one cationic surfactant can be up to about 15%, based on the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. For example, the total amount of at least one cationic surfactant may range from about 0.1% to about 15%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 15%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 3%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Emulsifiers
[0098] The compositions according to the disclosure include at least one emulsifier selected from fatty alcohols, esters, or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one emulsifier is plant-based and / or organic. Fatty alcohols
[0099] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one emulsifier selected from fatty alcohols, or their derivatives. In some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least two fatty alcohols.
[0100] As used herein, "fatty alcohol" refers to any alcohol having a carbon chain of C5 or higher, such as, for example, C8 or higher, C10 or higher, and C12 or higher. Suitable fatty alcohols according to disclosure may include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated or non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, for example, with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as 8 to 30 carbon atoms, 8 to 22 carbon atoms, 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or 12 to 18 carbon atoms, including all intermediate ranges and subranges. Fatty alcohols may be liquid or solid. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols and their derivatives can be found in the International Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, Sixteenth Edition, 2016.
[0101] As used herein, "alkoxylated fatty alcohol" refers to any fatty alcohol having a carbon chain at C5 or higher, as defined above, further comprising at least one alkoxy group. For example, the at least one alkoxylated fatty alcohol may have a carbon chain at C8 or higher, C10 or higher, and C12 or higher. In addition, for example, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol(s) may be selected from alkoxylated polymers (y including copolymers, terpolymers, and homopolymers) derived from alcohols such as glycerol (e.g., polyglycerol derived from four molecules of glycerol). At least one alkoxy group of at least one alkoxylated fatty alcohol may, for example, be derived from an alkoxylation reaction carried out with an alkylene oxide. Non-limiting examples of at least one alkoxylated fatty alcohol include any fatty alcohol comprising at least one polyethylene glycol ether and any fatty alcohol comprising at least one polypropylene glycol ether.
[0102] In some embodiments, the compositions as disclosed comprise a liquid fatty alcohol. In some embodiments, the compositions as disclosed comprise a solid fatty alcohol. In other embodiments, the compositions as disclosed comprise combinations of at least one liquid fatty alcohol and at least one solid fatty alcohol.
[0103] According to some embodiments, the usable liquid fatty alcohols may contain C10-C34, and may have branched carbon chains and / or unsaturated (C=C double bond) carbon chains, and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0104] Liquid fatty alcohols may be represented by the formula R-OH, in which R denotes a C12-C24 branched alkyl group or an alkenyl group (comprising at least one C=C double bond in C12-C24), R being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. In some embodiments, a liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. In at least some embodiments, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. Non-limiting examples of liquid fatty alcohols may include oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-l-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, 2-decyl-l-tetradecanol, and 2-tetradecyl-l-cetanol. In certain particular embodiments, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-l-dodecanol.
[0105] According to other embodiments, the solid fatty alcohols that may be used may include those that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, i.e., they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm. The solid fatty alcohols may be soluble, under the same temperature and pressure conditions, in at least one organic solvent (e.g., ethanol, chloroform, benzene, or liquid petroleum jelly) at a concentration of at least 1% by weight.
[0106] Solid fatty alcohols can be represented by the formula R-OH, in which R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferred of 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0107] Non-limiting examples of solid fatty alcohols include lauric alcohol or lauric alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol); or mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the compositions disclosed herein include at least one solid fatty alcohol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
[0108] Fatty alcohol derivatives that may be used include methyl stearyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether, stearyl acetate, cetyl propionate, ceteth-1 to ceteth-45 compounds, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol fractions present; steareth-1 to steareth-10 compounds, which are ethylene glycol ethers of stearic alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol fractions present; ceteareth 1 to ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of cetearic alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing mainly cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol fractions present; the C1-C30 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, stearth and ceteareth compounds described above;Polyoxyethylenic ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylenic ethers of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers such as PPG-9 stearyl ether, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG-8 cetyl ether and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and mixtures of all the preceding compounds.
[0109] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include a fatty alcohol that is hydrogenated (e.g., stearyl, lauryl, cetyl, cetearyl). In some embodiments, the fatty alcohol contains one or more double bonds (e.g., oleyl). In some embodiments, an emulsifier included in the compositions is selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (a combination of cetyl and stearyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis-4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, an emulsifier included in the compositions may be chosen from myristyl alcohol, lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, or a combination thereof.
[0110] Thus, without being limiting, at least one emulsifier may be chosen from among the following: C9-C11 alcohols, C12-C13 alcohols, C12-C15 alcohols, C12-C16 alcohols, C14-C15 alcohols, C12-C22 alcohols, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-heptyldecanol, 2-octyldecanol, caproic alcohol (1-hexanol), enanthic alcohol (1-heptanol), caprylic alcohol (1-octanol), pelargonic alcohol (1-nonanol), capric alcohol (1-decanol), lauric alcohol (1-dodecanol), or mixtures thereof.
[0111] In one embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol is cetyl alcohol. In another embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol is cetearyl alcohol. In another embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol includes both cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, by way of example. In some embodiments, an emulsifier may be chosen from ceteareth-2, ceteareth-3, ceteareth-4, ceteareth-5, ceteareth-6, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-8, ceteareth-9, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-11, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-13, ceteareth-14, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-16, ceteareth-17, ceteareth-18, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-22, ceteareth-23, ceteareth-24, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-27, ceteareth-28, ceteareth-29, ceteareth-30, ceteareth-28, ceteareth-29, ceteareth-30, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-22, ceteareth-23, ceteareth-24, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-27, ceteareth-28, ceteareth-29, ceteareth-30, ceteareth-24, ceteareth-24, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-26 ... h-33, ceteareth-34, ceteareth-40, ceteareth-50, ceteareth-55, ceteareth-60, ceteareth-80, ceteareth-100, laureth-1, laureth-2, laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-5, laureth-6, laureth-7, laureth-8, laureth-9, laureth-10, laureth-11, laureth-12, laureth-13,laureth-14, laureth-15, laureth-16, laureth-20, laureth-23, laureth-25, laureth-30, laureth-40, deceth-3, deceth-5, oleth-5, oleth-30, steareth-2, steareth-10, steareth-20, steareth-100, cetylsteareth-12, ceteareth-5, ceteareth-5, polyglyceryl 4-lauryl ether, polyglyceryl 4-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl 2-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl 2-cetyl ether, polyglyceryl 6-cetyl ether, polyglyceryl 6-oleylcetyl ether, polyglyceryl 6-octadecyl ether, C9-C11 pareth-3, C9-C11 pareth-6, C11-C15 pareth-3, C11-C15 pareth-5, C11-C15 pareth-12, C11-C15 pareth-20, C12-C15 pareth-9, C12-C15 pareth-12, C22-C24 pareth-33, or a mixture thereof. Glyceryl esters (Glycerol esters),
[0112] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one emulsifier selected from glyceryl (or glycerol) esters, or their derivatives.
[0113] At least one glyceryl ester may have a carbon chain of 8 to 24 carbons, and may be selected from: i) the esters of an oligomeric glycerol; ii) arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name WAXENOL 801 by Alzo; iii) the esters of phytosterols, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, such as hydrogenated cocoglycerides; iv) non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C4-C50 dicarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol; v) the aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid; or vi) a mixture of these.
[0114] Non-limiting examples of esters of an oligomeric glycerol include di-glycerol, such as adipic acid and glycerol condensates, in which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols has reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those sold under the brand name SOFTISAN 649 by Cremer Oleo or under the brand name SP SUPERMOL B MBAL-SS-(RB) by Croda, as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, or may be bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-1.
[0115] In some exemplary embodiments, the glycerol esters may be polyglycerol esters of fatty acids (polyglycerol esters) having a structure according to the following formula (VIII): OR2 (VIII), RMOCH:JcH-CH2O)n-R3
[0116] in which n is between 2 and 20, between 2 and 10, or between 2 and 5, or is equal to 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and R1, R2 and R3 can each independently be a fatty acid fraction or a hydrogen, provided that at least one of R1, R2 and R3 is a fatty acid fraction. For example, R1, R2 and R3 can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of Ci-C40, Ci-C30, Ci-C25, Ci-C20, CrCi6 or CrC10.
[0117] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate and polyglyceryl-10 stearate.
[0118] In certain embodiments, the at least one emulsifier comprises at least one glyceryl ester selected from the following: esters of oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid or C4-C50 polycarboxylic acid, linear or branched, and a C2-C50 diol or polyol, aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid, and a mixture of these. Non-limiting examples of glyceryl esters include bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-1, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl lactate stearate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or a mixture thereof.In one embodiment, at least one emulsifier is selected from glyceryl stearate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-1, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, or a mixture thereof. In another embodiment, at least one emulsifier is selected from glyceryl esters comprising bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-1 and / or bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, and optionally, a second glyceryl ester. In yet another embodiment, at least one emulsifier comprises a glyceryl ester that is glyceryl stearate, and optionally, a second glyceryl ester. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises bis-diglyceryl polyacryladipate-1 and / or bis-diglyceryl polyacryladipate-2, and optionally at least one additional emulsifier. Non-glyceryl esters
[0119] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure may also include an ester other than glyceryl esters (non-glyceryl esters). In some cases, the ester other than the glyceryl ester is selected from isopropyl esters, cetyl esters, or a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of isopropyl esters include isopropyl myristate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl oleate, isopropyl palmitate, and isopropyl stearate. In some embodiments, the ester that is not a glyceryl ester may be selected from isopropyl myristate, cetyl esters, isopropyl palmitate, or a mixture thereof.
[0120] The ester, other than the glyceryl ester, may also be selected from a fatty acid ester. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid esters may include ethoxylated fatty acid esters, such as ethylene oxide adducts with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Examples of suitable fatty acid esters may include those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (under the INCI names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (under the INCI names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (under the INCI names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (under the INCI names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (INCI name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
[0121] According to the disclosure, the total amount of at least one emulsifier selected from fatty alcohols, esters and / or their derivatives, or the amount of each of the individual fatty alcohols, esters and / or derivatives, in the composition can be up to about 15%, for example from about 0.01% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. By way of non-limiting example, any one of at least one emulsifier chosen from fatty alcohols, esters, or combinations thereof, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 9%, about 0.01% to about 8%, about 0.01% to about 6%, about 0.01% to about 5%, about 0.01% to about 4%, about 0.01% to about 3%, about 0.01% to about 2%, about 0.01% to about 1%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
[0122] In other embodiments, at least one emulsifier may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these by weight, based on the weight of the composition. Thus, any one of at least one emulsifier may be present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 percent by weight up to about 10 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.In one particular embodiment, at least one emulsifier is present in a range of approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%. C3-C8 polyols
[0123] Optionally, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one C3-C8 polyol selected from diols and triols. The at least one C3-C8 polyol selected from diols and triols may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted. Any stereoisomer of the C3-C8 polyols selected from diols and triols may be used.
[0124] In various exemplary embodiments, the C3-C8 polyols selected from diols and triols may be selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin and mixtures thereof.
[0125] In other embodiments, the C3-C8 polyols selected from diols and triols may be selected from, for example, propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylpropane, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-l,2-diol, 2-ethyl-l,3-hexanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol.
[0126] In certain embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least two C3-C8 polyols selected from diols and triols. By way of non-limiting example, a composition according to the disclosure may comprise a combination of glycerin and caprylyl glycol.
[0127] If present, the total amount of at least one C3 C8 polyol selected from diols and triols may be about 3% or more, about 4% or more, or about 5% or more, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In some embodiments, at least one C3-C8 polyol selected from diols and triols is present in the composition in total amounts ranging from about 3% to about 20%, such as from about 3% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 10%, from about 3% to about 9%, from about 3% to about 8%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3% to about 6%, from about 4% to about 20%, from about 4% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4% to about 9%, from about 4% to about 8%, from about 4% to about 7%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 5% to about 20%, from about 5% to about 15%, from about 5% to about 10%, from about 5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 5% to approximately 7%, or from approximately 5% to approximately 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0128] In an exemplary and non-limiting embodiment, at least one C3-C8 polyol selected from diols and triols is present in an amount of approximately 5% or more by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and comprises glycerin. Fatty compounds
[0129] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally include at least one fatty compound. Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include vegetable oils, hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, fatty acids and their esters, waxes, triglycerides, lanolins, alkanes, petrolatums, paraffins and fatty alcohols other than those described above, as well as derivatives of the foregoing.
[0130] Vegetable oils are oils derived from a plant, for example, oils from seeds or fruits. In some embodiments, the oils Vegetable oils that may be used according to the disclosure may include a vegetable-based and / or vegetable-derived hydrocarbon oil. Non-exhaustive examples of such vegetable oils include acai oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, andiroba oil, annatto oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, borage oil, Brazil nut oil, buriti oil, camelina oil, coffee oil, copaiba oil, emu oil, passion fruit oil, almond oil, castor oil, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, rosehip oil, ajwain oil, angelica root oil, anise oil, aragan oil, asafetida, balsam oil, basil oil, bay leaf oil, bergamot oil, black pepper oil, buchu oil, birch oil, camphor, cannabis oil, caraway oil, cardamom seed oil, and other seed oils. carrot, chamomile oil,calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, lemongrass oil, clary sage, clove leaf oil, coffee, coriander, rosemary oil, cranberry seed oil, cubeb, cumin oil, cypress, cypriol, curry leaf, davana oil, dill oil, elecampane, eucalyptus oil, fennel seed oil, fenugreek oil, fir, frankincense oil, galangal, geranium oil, ginger oil, goldenrod, grapefruit oil, grapeseed oil, henna oil, helichrysum, horseradish oil, hyssop, Idaho tansy, jasmine oil, juniper berry oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass, marjoram, melaleuca, lemon balm, mountain savory, mugwort, mustard, myrrh, myrtle neem, neroli, nutmeg, orange, oregano, iris, palo santo, parsley, patchouli, perilla oil, pennyroyal essence, peppermint oil, petitgrain, pine oil, plum oil, ravensara, red cedar, Roman chamomile, rose oil,Rosehip oil, rosemary oil, rosewood oil, sandalwood oil, sassafras oil, savory oil, schisandra oil, spikenard, spruce, star anise oil, mandarin, tarragon oil, tea tree oil, thyme oil, hemlock oil, turmeric, valerian, vetiver oil, western red cedar, wintergreen, yarrow oil, ylang-ylang, and zedoary oil.
[0131] In some embodiments, the fatty compound may include an oil selected from glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C24, these chains being saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched. Non-limiting examples of such oils include wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, Rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil and rosehip oil.
[0132] In some embodiments, the vegetable oils that may be used according to the disclosure may include an essential oil. Such an essential oil can be chosen from sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, chili berry oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedarwood oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, neroli oil, orange oil, oil of patchouli,Pepper oil, black pepper oil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, ylang-ylang, or a mixture of these.
[0133] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil, Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, or a combination thereof.
[0134] Oils based on hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, exemplary and not limiting, may include volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, perhydrosqualene, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene or mixtures thereof.
[0135] Useful waxes according to the disclosure include waxes of natural origin, for example beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites and hydrogenated oils, for example hydrogenated jojoba oil, or waxes of synthetic origin, for example polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, esters of fatty acids and glycerides solid at 40°C, or silicone waxes such as polypropylsilsesquioxane wax substituted with alkyl motifs having at least 30 carbons.
[0136] The exemplary and non-limiting fatty acids may include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be straight-chain or branched-chain and may be saturated or unsaturated. Also included are diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids that satisfy the condition relating to number of carbon atoms, as well as the salts of these fatty acids. Non-limiting examples include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and their mixtures, as well as their esters.
[0137] The total amount of at least one fatty compound that may be included in various embodiments may range from about 0.01% to about 15%, including all intermediate sub-ranges, such as from about 0.01% to about 10%, from about 0.01% to about 8%, from about 0.01% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 15%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 15%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 6%, or from about 1% to about 4%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In certain particular embodiments, at least one fatty compound comprises Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil, Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, or a combination thereof in an amount of about 1% to 10% by weight, such as about 3% to about 7% or about 4% to about 6%, relative to the total weight of the composition. Solvents
[0138] The compositions according to the disclosure may include a cosmetically acceptable solvent. The solvent may be selected from water, non-aqueous solvents, or mixtures thereof.
[0139] In some embodiments, the solvent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of water. The total amount of water in the compositions may vary depending on the type of composition and the desired consistency, viscosity, etc.
[0140] In some embodiments, the composition comprises one or more non-aqueous solvents, other than or in addition to the ingredients mentioned above. For example, Cl-4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols other than those described above, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, laminar lipid materials, or any mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of solvents that can be used include alkane polyols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol);glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, monomethyl ether of dipropylene glycol, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbite, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane, and a mixture thereof. At least in some embodiments, the compositions contain isopropyl alcohol.
[0141] The solvent may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from approximately 50% to approximately 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. For example, in one embodiment, the total amount of solvent may be approximately 50% to approximately 95%, approximately 60% to approximately 95%, approximately 70% to approximately 95%, approximately 70% to approximately 90%, approximately 75% to approximately 95%, or approximately 75% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the solvent is primarily composed of water, for example, approximately 90% to approximately 99%, or approximately 95% to approximately 99%, of the total solvent. Additional components
[0142] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally include any additional or auxiliary components suitable for use in these compositions. These components may include, but are not limited to, conditioning agents, dyes / pigments, moisturizing agents, fillers, structuring agents, gloss enhancers, antioxidants, penetrants, sequestrants, perfumes, buffers, dispersants, plant extracts, preservatives, opacifiers, sunscreens, pH adjusters, vitamins, and antistatic agents.
[0143] Optional additional auxiliary components may be present in an amount of up to about 15%, for example from about 0.01% to about 15% or from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0144] Optionally, the compositions may include up to about 100% biodegradable, sustainable and / or environmentally friendly raw materials, such as up to about 99%, up to about 98%, up to about 97%, up to about 96% or up to about 95%.
[0145] In various embodiments, the compositions may have a pH less than or equal to about 7. For example, the pH of the compositions may range from about 2 to about 6, as from about 3 to about 5, or from about 3.5 to about 4.5, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0146] The compositions according to the disclosure may not require a reducing agent, such as a reducing agent with a base. Thus, in some embodiments, the compositions are free or essentially free of a reducing agent.
[0147] The compositions according to the disclosure are typically in the form of a liquid, cream, paste, gel, or foam, such as a mousse or lotion, but are not limited to these forms. The term "gel" is generally understood to mean a soft, semi-solid, or solid-like material that exhibits little or no steady-state flow. In some embodiments, the compositions may be formulated as aerosol-type products. In some embodiments, the compositions are non-aerosol-type products. When the compositions are formulated as aerosol-type products, the compositions may further comprise a propellant.
[0148] The viscosities of the compositions are not limited, but by way of example only, in some embodiments the viscosities may range from about 2 to about 5 Pa-s, for example from about 2.3 to about 4.8 Pa-s, or from about 2.4 to about 4.7 Pa-s, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, when measured using a rheometer at 25°C (pin no. 4, 30 seconds). II. Necessary
[0149] The disclosure also relates to necessities including the compositions disclosed herein.
[0150] The kits according to the disclosure may include a first container containing a composition disclosed herein. Optionally, the kits according to the disclosure may include a second container. By way of example, a kit may optionally further include a second container containing a hair treatment composition other than the compositions disclosed herein, including but not limited to a hair treatment rinse-out product, shampoo, hair conditioner, hair color toning composition, hair lightening composition, hair coloring composition, hair curling composition, hair combing device, or a skin care or makeup composition. A kit may also include application instructions and / or composition / formulation information.
[0151] In other exemplary embodiments, the kits may contain at least one first container containing a composition according to the disclosure and at least one second container configured to dispense or apply the compositions described herein. Thus, in one embodiment, a first container may be a jar or bottle containing a composition according to the disclosure, and a second container may be a squeezable tube or bottle, configured to be filled with the composition in order to apply the composition to the hair to be treated.
[0152] The container(s) configured for dispensing or applying the compositions may, in various embodiments, be disposable or refillable. III. Processes
[0153] This disclosure also relates to methods for enhancing the lengthening of curly hair through the use of the compositions described herein. The methods generally involve applying any one of the compositions as detailed in the disclosure to the hair.
[0154] The compositions disclosed herein are typically used to provide a visible lengthening benefit to curly hair, or to enhance the lengthening of hair curls. The compositions may be useful in various contexts, whether for chemically treated or untreated hair, and / or for natural or artificial curls. The degree of curl or curl type of the hair may vary and is not limited. For example, the curls of hair treated with the compositions described herein may range from slightly wavy to very kinky and curly, and may have different textures and colors.
[0155] In addition to improving the elongation of hair curls, the compositions can also be used to provide hair with a variety of desirable sensory benefits, for example, curl definition, curl hold, hydration, softness, good bounce, good shine, and / or anti-frizz. As such, the compositions are useful for styling (which includes shaping) hair while simultaneously caring for, conditioning, and / or imparting one or more of the sensory benefits described above.
[0156] Typically, the processes according to the disclosure may include applying an effective amount of a composition disclosed herein to hair having curls, when the hair is dry, wet, damp, or moist. The hair may be natural or non-natural. As used herein, the term "effective amount" refers to an amount sufficient to provide a desired lengthening effect to the hair, taking into account the degree of curl, length, volume, and texture of the hair. In general, about 0.5 grams to about 50 grams of product are The application method depends on the specific product formulation, hair length, volume, and hairstyle. The product can be evenly distributed by combing with the fingers or a similar tool. It can then be allowed to air dry. Alternatively, the product can be left on the hair as a leave-in conditioner for as long as necessary, from a few seconds (e.g., 1, 3, 5, or 10 seconds) to approximately 10, 20, or 30 minutes, or longer, such as several hours or days, or until the next hair wash or rinse.
[0157] In some embodiments, before applying the composition to the hair, the hair may first be washed with a commercially available shampoo or rinsed with water. The composition is then applied to the washed or rinsed hair when the hair is wet, damp, or wet. In some other embodiments, before applying the composition to dry hair, the hair may optionally be moisturized, dampened, or wetted by spraying with water or using a damp towel, or by applying other treatment compositions that make the hair moist, damp, or wet.
[0158] Alternatively, in certain embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure may first be applied to dry hair, and then water or cosmetically acceptable compositions are applied to the hair to hydrate, moisturize, or wet the hair while the compositions according to the disclosure remain on it. Hair that has been treated with the compositions disclosed herein may be air-dried without further hair treatment, including rinsing or washing.
[0159] In some embodiments, the processes may optionally include braiding and / or twisting the hair to create curls, before or after applying the compositions disclosed herein. In some embodiments, the processes according to the disclosure do not require shaping or styling the hair before, during, and / or after applying the compositions. Tension applied to the hair is generally not necessary. Thus, in some embodiments, before, during, or after applying the compositions, the hair is not stretched by mechanical means.
[0160] In some embodiments, after the application of the compositions described in this document, the hair can be shaped or styled as required, for example, twisted or the like. In some embodiments, the hair treated with the compositions can be twisted in 30 minutes, or in 20 minutes, while the hair is wet or damp.
[0161] The processes according to the disclosure do not generally require the use of a a reducing agent, including a base, or heating the hair to stretch or lengthen hair curls. Thus, in some embodiments, the process does not include the use of a reducing agent or a base, and / or does not include heating the hair.
[0162] In some embodiments, a composition disclosed herein is used alone to treat hair, without the use of other hair treatment compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions may be applied to the hair before, during, or after the application of another hair treatment or styling composition, such as (for example, a conditioner, mask, cream, lotion, gel, coloring composition, etc.). Thus, a composition disclosed herein may be applied to the hair and layered over another composition that is also applied to the hair.
[0163] In various embodiments, the hair treatment processes using the compositions disclosed impart various lasting benefits to the hair, as described above, without a greasy feel or flaking, compared to hair not treated with a composition disclosed. The term "lasting," as used here, means that the lengthening effect and other benefits imparted to the hair can remain for a desired duration, such as a few hours, a few days, or until the hair is rinsed or washed.
[0164] Having described in detail the numerous embodiments of the present invention, it is evident that modifications and variations are possible without departing from the scope of the disclosure defined in the appended claims. Furthermore, it should be noted that all the examples in this disclosure, while illustrating numerous embodiments of the disclosure, are provided by way of non-limiting examples and should therefore not be considered as limiting the various aspects thus illustrated. It is understood that all definitions given herein are given solely within the context of this disclosure.
[0165] In this document, the terms "comprising," "having," and "including" (or "comprise," "having," and "include") are used in their broad and non-limiting sense. The expression "consisting essentially of" restricts the scope of a claim to the specified materials or steps and to those that do not materially affect the fundamental and innovative characteristics of the compositions.
[0166] In this application, the use of the singular includes the plural unless otherwise indicated. The phrase "one or more," meaning "at least one," is expressly intended to include individual components as well as mixtures / combinations thereof. Similarly, the phrase "a salt of this" also refers to "salts of this." Thus, when the disclosure refers to "a element chosen from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of it, or mixtures of these, it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.
[0167] As used herein, the expressions "and mixtures thereof", "and a mixture of these", "and combinations thereof", "and a combination of these", "or mixtures thereof", "or a mixture of these", "or combinations thereof", and "or a combination of these" are used interchangeably to indicate that the list of components immediately preceding the expression, such as "A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof", means that the component(s) may be chosen from A, B, C, D, A+B, A+B+C, A+D, A+C+D, etc., without limitation of their variations. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof.
[0168] For the purposes of this disclosure, it should be noted that, to provide a more concise description, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified by the term "approximately". It is understood that, whether the term "approximately" is used explicitly or implicitly, each quantity given herein is intended to refer to the actual value given, and it is also intended to refer to the approximation of that given value that would be reasonably deduced on the basis of ordinary competence in the art, including approximations due to the experimental and / or measurement conditions of that given value. All ranges and quantities indicated herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a boundary. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%", such as "2% to 8%", such as "3% to 5%", is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%", "1% to 5%", "2% to 10%", and so on.Similarly, a given range of "approximately 1% to 10%" is understood to apply the term "approximately" to both the 1% and 10% bounds. The term "approximately" is used here to indicate a difference of up to + / - 10% from the stated number, such as + / - 9%, + / - 8%, + / - 7%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, or + / - 1%. Likewise, all range bounds are understood to be disclosed individually, so that, for example, a range of 1:2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose a ratio of both 1:2 and 2:1.
[0169] The term "active substance", as used here in relation to the percentage quantity of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.
[0170] All quantities indicated here are relative to the quantity of active material, unless otherwise stated.
[0171] All percentages, parts and ratios indicated herein are based on the total weight of the compositions in this disclosure, unless otherwise stated.
[0172] As used herein, the terms "application of a composition to keratinous materials" and "application of a composition to hair," and variations thereof, are intended to mean the contacting of keratinous materials, including hair and skin, with at least one of the compositions in the disclosure, in any manner whatsoever. This may also mean the contacting of keratinous materials in an effective quantity.
[0173] Unless otherwise stated, all percentages given here are by weight, relative to the weight of the total composition.
[0174] As used here, the term "hairstyling" is meant to include "shaping".
[0175] In this document, the term "curly hair" refers to any hair that includes a curl. The curl may be natural or artificial, that is, formed by chemical or physical treatment of the hair. The degree of curliness of the hair can vary and is not limited.
[0176] As used herein, hair with enhanced or enhanced curl definition may have curls with a shape that has a neat little curl appearance rather than being curly, curls that appear more individualized, curls that are more closed in appearance, and / or curls that have an enhanced visual appearance of hair color and / or strands.
[0177] As used herein, the terms "lengthening" and "stretching" curly hair are interchangeable, and both refer to reducing the degree of curling and / or tightening of the hair curls, and "enhancing the lengthening of hair curls" and its variants means that the hair length appears closer to the actual, uncurled hair length.
[0178] A "no-rinse" composition or product means a composition such as a hair treatment composition that is not rinsed and / or removed by washing with water or an acceptable solvent after the composition has been applied to the keratinous fiber, such as hair; instead, the composition may remain on the keratinous fibers for a desired period of time, such as 1 hour, 2 hours, 3 hours, 4 hours, up to 8 hours, overnight, or for as long as necessary, until the next washing or rinsing of the keratinous fibers.
[0179] As used herein, the term "organic" means a material that is produced substantially without or essentially without the use of synthetic materials.
[0180] In this document, the term "polyol" refers to an organic molecule comprising more than two free hydroxyl groups.
[0181] The terms "substantially free" or "essentially free", as used herein, mean that the specific material can be used in a process of fa This refers to the production of small quantities that do not materially affect the fundamental and innovative characteristics of the compositions, as disclosed. The terms may also mean that the specific material is not used in a manufacturing process but may still be present in a raw material included in the composition.
[0182] As used in this document, the term "salts" referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions is not, however, exhaustive.
[0183] As used herein, the term “stable” indicates that the composition does not exhibit phase separation and / or crystallization for a period of time, for example, at least 1 day (24 hours), 1 week, 1 month, or more than 1 year. “Stable” also means a composition that, after two months of storage between 25 and 45°C, shows no change in appearance, color, odor, or viscosity.
[0184] As used herein, the term "substantially free" or "essentially free" means that the specific material may be present in small amounts that do not materially affect the fundamental and innovative characteristics of the compositions as disclosed. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions (provided that an amount less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the fundamental and innovative characteristics of the compositions as disclosed). Similarly, the compositions may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, or less than 0.01%, or none of the specified materials.Furthermore, all components that are positively presented in this disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims; for example, a claimed composition may be "free," "substantially free" (or "significantly free") of one or more components that are positively presented in this disclosure. The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used here may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition but may still be present in a raw material that is included in the composition.
[0185] As used herein, the term "surfactants", as well as any specifically identified surfactant, includes salts of surfactants even if not explicitly mentioned.
[0186] In this document, the term "surfactant system" refers to a combination of different surfactants. For example, the expression "anionic surfactant system" refers to an anionic surfactant or a combination of different ten- anionic surfactants, and the expression "nonionic surfactant system" refers to a nonionic surfactant or a combination of different nonionic surfactants.
[0187] In this document, the term "synthetic" means a material that is not of natural origin. The terms "natural" and "of natural origin" mean a material of natural origin, such as derived from plants, that cannot be subsequently chemically or physically modified. "Of plant origin" means that the material is derived from a plant.
[0188] As used herein, the term "treat" (and its grammatical variations) refers to the application of the compositions of this disclosure to the surface of keratinous materials, such as hair.
[0189] Unless expressly stated otherwise, no process described herein is intended to be interpreted as requiring that its steps be performed in a specific order. Accordingly, where a process claim does not expressly mention an order to be followed for its steps, or where it is not specifically indicated in the claims or descriptions that the steps must be limited to a specific order, no particular order is intended to be inferred from it. EXAMPLES
[0190] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature only. In the examples, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (wt%) of active substances, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1 - Compositions
[0191] The inventive and comparative compositions presented in Table 1 below have been prepared.
[0192] [Tables 1] INCI name Inventive compositions Comparative compositions IA IB IC Cl C2 HYDROGENATED STARCH HY-DROLYSATE 7.0 SUCROSE 7.0 SUCROSE STEARATE 6.8 SUCROSE DISTEARATE 7.0 SUCROSE TRISTEARATE 7.0 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 GLYCERYL STEARATE SE 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 CETYL ESTERS 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 GLYCERIN 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 1.58 1.58 1.58 1.58 1.58 BIS-DIGLYCERYL PO-LYACYLADIPATE-2 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 2 2 2 2 2 RICINUS COMMUNIS (CASTOR) SEED OIL 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 ADDITIVES (perfume, preservatives, pH adjusters) 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 SOLVENT (water + solvents) QS to QS to QS to QS to QS to (non-aqueous) 100 100 100 100 100
[0193] Compositions
[0194] Each of the compositions 1A-1C and C1-C2 was prepared by mixing the solvents and hydroxypropyl guar in a homogenizer reservoir to form a first mixture, followed by heating to approximately 70°C, and then adding behentrimonium chloride to form a second mixture. Next, in a separate container, caprylyl glycol, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, shea butter, castor seed oil, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate SE, and cetyl esters were mixed to form a second mixture and heated to approximately 70°C. When the first and second mixtures had reached a temperature of approximately 70°C, the second mixture was added to the first mixture in the homogenizer reservoir and homogenized until a homogenized mixture was obtained.The homogenized mixture was cooled to room temperature and the polyols, diols, and / or triols, as well as the fragrance and preservatives, were added by mixing at approximately 45°C. The final mixture was cooled to room temperature to obtain the composition.
[0195] Compositions 1A-1C and C1-C2 were in the form of a cream with viscosities at 25°C ranging from approximately 2.3 Pa-s to approximately 4.8 Pa-s (M4) (spindle #4, 30 sec), and relative densities ranging from approximately 0.98 mass per unit to approximately 1.02 mass per unit. The pH at 25°C was measured to be in the range of approximately 3.5 to approximately 4.5. These compositions were stable when stored at room temperature or at temperatures up to approximately 45°C for more than 12 months.
[0196] Example 2 - Demonstration of the effects on hair
[0197] A half-head study was conducted on mannequin heads with hair loops to evaluate the loop lengthening effect of compositions including a sucrose ester as disclosed, compared to comparative compositions not including a sucrose ester.
[0198] In this study, the examples of compositions 1A-1C and the comparative composition C2 of Table 1 were tested on mannequin heads against the comparative composition Cl of Table 1.
[0199] For each mannequin head, the hair was first washed with a commercially available shampoo. While the hair was still wet or damp, a sufficient quantity of Cl was applied to one half of each mannequin head and spread evenly over the hair with the fingers. Approximately the same quantity of one of the compositions 1A-1C or C2 was then applied to the other half of the head and spread evenly in the same way. The mannequin's hair was then allowed to air dry. [Fig. 1] shows images of each comparison.
[0200] As shown in [Fig.1], hair treated with comparative composition C2 appears shorter than hair treated with comparative composition Cl. A curl lengthening effect can be shown in hair treated with each of compositions 1A-1C, with hair in compositions IB and IC showing the greatest effect.
[0201] The example demonstrated that the compositions according to this disclosure, which include sucrose esters, improve the elongation of hair curls.
[0202] Example 3 - Demonstration of the effect of sucrose ester concentration
[0203] In order to demonstrate that the beneficial effects of the compositions according to the disclosure can be obtained over a range of concentrations, the following compositions containing varying amounts of sucrose distearate (2A-2E) and a comparative composition without sucrose distearate (C3) were prepared.
[0204] [Tables2] INCI Name Test Compositions C3 2A 2B 2C 2D 2E Sucrose Distearate 0 7 15 20 25 30 Water QS to 100 QS to 100 QS to 100 QS to 100 QS to 100 QS to 100 Average Curl Shrinkage After 24 Hours 13.0% 10.4% 9.2% 8.6% 7.6% 8.0%
[0205] Test compositions
[0206] Each of the compositions 2A-2E and C3 was tested on three strands of hair. Each strand of hair was first washed with a commercially available shampoo. While the strands were still damp or wet, equal amounts of one test composition were applied to each strand of hair and distributed evenly.
[0207] The length of each hair strand was measured immediately (t=0), after approximately 14 hours (t=14), and after approximately 24 hours (t=24) following the application of one of the compositions 2A-2E and C3 to the strand. The lengthening effect was assessed by measuring the change in length of the samples after the application of the test solutions. The result is illustrated in [Fig. 2], which shows the average curl shrinkage for three samples of each of the compositions 2A-2E and C3.
[0208] This example demonstrates that there are lasting beneficial effects of loop elongation are obtained at all concentrations in the sucrose ester test, compared to the comparative composition without sucrose ester.
[0209] It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations can be made to the compositions and processes according to the disclosure without departing from the spirit or scope of the disclosure. Therefore, it is intended that the disclosure will cover such modifications and variations and their equivalents.< / vi>
Claims
Demands
1. Hair styling composition comprising: (a) at least one sucrose ester selected from sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose polystearate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose dipalmitate, or combinations thereof; present in an amount from 4% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one non-ionic polysaccharide thickening agent selected from gums, celluloses, starches, or combinations thereof and present in an amount from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) at least one cationic surfactant selected from among amidoamines, quaternary monoalkyl amines, quaternary dialkyl amines, polyquaternium compounds, their salts or combinations and present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;and (d) at least one emulsifier selected from fatty alcohols, esters, or a combination thereof;
2. Composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one additional component selected from: (e) at least one polyol in CC selected from diols and triols and present in the composition in an amount from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or (f) at least one fatty compound, or combinations thereof, and present in the composition in an amount from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or combinations thereof.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one emulsifier selected from fatty alcohols, esters, or combinations thereof is present in an amount from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising: (a) 5% to 20%, by weight, of at least one sucrose ester; (b) 0.1% to 5%, by weight, of at least one non-ionic polysaccharide thickening agent; (c) 0.1% to 10%, by weight, of at least one cationic surfactant; and (d) 0.5% to 10%, by weight, of at least one emulsifier selected from fatty alcohols, esters or combinations thereof.
5. Kit including: a first container comprising a first composition including: (a) 5% to 20%, by weight, of at least one sucrose ester selected from sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose polystearate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose dipalmitate, or combinations thereof; (b) 0.1% to 5%, by weight, of at least one non-ionic polysaccharide thickening agent selected from gums, celluloses, starches or combinations thereof; (c) from 0.1% to 10%, by weight, of at least one cationic surfactant selected from amidoamines, quaternary monoalkylamines, quaternary dialkylamines, polyquaternium compounds, their salts or combinations; (d) 0.5% to 10%, by weight, of at least one emulsifier selected from fatty alcohols, esters or combinations thereof; (e) optionally, at least one polyol in (% Cx) chosen from diols and triols; and (f) optionally, at least one fatty compound.
6. A hair styling method comprising the application to the hair of a composition comprising: (a) 4% to 30%, by weight, of at least one sucrose ester selected from sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose polystearate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose dipalmitate, or combinations thereof; (b) from 0.01% to 10%, by weight, of at least one non-ionic polysaccharide thickening agent selected from gums, celluloses, starches or combinations thereof; (c) from 0.1% to 15%, by weight, of at least one cationic surfactant selected from amidoamines, quaternary monoalkyl amines, quaternary dialkyl amines, polyquaternium compounds, their salts or combinations; (d) from 0.01% to 15%, by weight, of at least one emulsifier selected from fatty alcohols, esters, or their combinations; (e) optionally, from 3% to 20%, by weight, of at least one polyol with a C > Cx value chosen from diols and triols; and (f) optionally, from 0.01% to 15%, by weight, of at least one fatty compound.