EMULSION COMPOSITION WITH A LAMELLATE STRUCTURE

Abstract

EMULSION COMPOSITION WITH A LAMELLARY STRUCTURE The present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain length of 12 to 18; (ii) at least one surfactant; and (iii) at least one solubilizing agent, wherein the solubility of the fatty alcohol in the solubilizing agent is not less than 5 g / 100 g of solubilizing agent. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of said composition to the skin. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF AN EMULSION WITH A LAMELLAR STRUCTURE Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an emulsion. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an emulsion with a lamellar structure. context of art

[0002] Oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions are well known in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, in particular for the preparation of cosmetic products, such as milks, creams, tonics, serums or eau de toilette.

[0003] It is customary, in the cosmetic or dermatological field, to use oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions. These emulsions, consisting of an oily phase (or lipophilic phase) dispersed in an aqueous phase, have an external aqueous phase and are therefore more pleasant products to use due to the sensation of freshness they provide.

[0004] Compositions comprising a lamellar structure or a lamellar phase are also well known in the field of cosmetics and dermatology. For example, documents JP-A-2006-249 011 and JP-A-2009-298 748 disclose cosmetic compositions with a lamellar structure having specific surfactants for forming the amphiphilic bilayers.

[0005] Compositions with a lamellar structure or a lamellar phase exhibit characteristic optical birefringence under 90° cross-polarized light due to light interference by the lamellar structure or the lamellar phase. Thus, the aesthetic appearance caused by the optical effects of compositions with a lamellar structure or a lamellar phase may be particularly useful for cosmetic applications.

[0006] Many known methods for manufacturing multilamellar emulsions, especially those for encapsulating oil-soluble active ingredients, require heating above 45°C or a complex process (e.g., for multi-stage multiphase systems), rapid cooling, or high pressure.

[0007] For example, US 9,949,900 B2 discloses a liquid crystal emulsion including intercellular lipids, the preparation of which requires rapid heating and cooling.

[0008] US 6,908,625 B2 discloses a process comprising the encapsulation of retinol in surfactant vesicles using cholesterol and cholesterol esters, followed by the fabrication of sphingosomes and then liquid crystal lamellar emulsions. The resulting system shows increased active stability after one month of storage at 45°C. However, it requires multiple process steps and requires heating up to 90°C.

[0009] Certain cosmetic active ingredients such as ferulic acid and beta-carotene are water-insoluble, oil-soluble, and sensitive to water, heat, and / or oxygen.

[0010] Currently, a method typically used for introducing heat-sensitive active ingredients into a cream comprises preparing an emulsion base and then dispersing the cosmetic active ingredients into the prepared base. In most cases, the preparation of the base requires heating during emulsification, and the cosmetic active ingredients can only be added after the base has cooled, in order to avoid degradation of the cosmetic active ingredients.

[0011] Thus, there is still a need for a system whose preparation process does not include heating to a relatively high temperature, for example above 45°C. Summary of the invention

[0012] Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a system in the form of an emulsion with a lamellar structure, the preparation process of which does not include heating to a relatively high temperature, for example above 45°C.

[0013] Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion with a lamellar structure, the preparation process of which does not include heating to a relatively high temperature, for example above 45°C.

[0014] Another object of the present invention is to provide a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.

[0015] The inventors have now discovered that the above objects can be achieved by the present invention.

[0016] More specifically, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to formulate compositions in the form of an emulsion with a lamellar structure, the preparation process of which does not include heating to a relatively high temperature, for example above 45°C.

[0017] Consequently, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, including:

[0018] (i) at least one fatty alcohol whose carbon chain length is between 12 and 18;

[0019] (ii) at least one surfactant, and

[0020] (iii) at least one solubilizing agent, wherein the solubility of the fatty alcohol in the solubilizing agent is not less than 5 g / 100 g of solubilizing agent.

[0021] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Thus, said composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed fatty phase.

[0022] The inventors found that the composition of the present invention can be emulsified at room temperature below 45°C and has a lamellar structure or a lamellar structured phase, so that the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredients can be homogeneously dispersed in the oil phase without being heated during the preparation of the composition, therefore, the stability of the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient is improved. The oil droplets are also encapsulated in the multi-lamellar interface integrated in a continuous phase network with a lamellar structure.

[0023] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0024] Other advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. Brief description of the drawings

[0025] Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the appended figure, in which:

[0026] [Fig-1] [Fig.l] shows a polarized light microscopy image of the com position obtained in inventive example 1, in which, 1' represents an oily phase, 2' represents interfaces, and 3' represents the lamellar continuous phase.

[0027] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] shows a polarized light microscopy image of the com position obtained in inventive example 5, in which 1 represents B-carotene, 2 represents interfaces and 3 represents the lamellar continuous phase. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0028] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains. When the definition of a term in this specification is in contradiction with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention belongs, the definition described herein applies.

[0029] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in this range, in particular in the expressions “between...and...” and “from...to...”.

[0030] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0031] Throughout the present application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. Use of the term "comprising," as used herein, also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0032] Unless otherwise indicated, all numerical values ​​expressing an amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which may be modified according to the intended purpose, if necessary.

[0033] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "keratinous materials" is intended to encompass human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is more particularly considered according to the present invention.

[0034] All percentages in the present invention refer to percentages by weight, unless otherwise indicated.

[0035] According to the first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising:

[0036] (i) at least one fatty alcohol whose carbon chain length is from 12 to 18;

[0037] (ii) at least one surfactant, and

[0038] (iii) at least one solubilizing agent, the solubility of the fatty alcohol in the solubilizing agent being not less than 5 g / 100 g of solubilizing agent. Aqueous phase

[0039] As an oil-in-water emulsion, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.

[0040] Said aqueous phase comprises water.

[0041] Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase comprises a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature of 25°C) such as a glycol having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

[0042] Advantageously, said aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 55% to 85% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Advantageously, the water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 45% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0044] As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one dispersed oily phase.

[0045] Said oily phase comprises at least one oil.

[0046] The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0047] The term "oil" denotes a non-aqueous, water-immiscible compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The expression "non-volatile oil" denotes an oil that can remain on keratinous materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which in particular has a vapor pressure of less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa). A non-volatile oil may also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm2.

[0048] These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0049] Said oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and fluorinated oils.

[0050] The expression "hydrocarbon oil" designates an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of O and N atoms, and devoid of Si and F heteroatoms. This oil may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0051] The expression “silicone oil” designates an oil containing at least one silicon atom, notably containing Si-O groups.

[0052] The expression “fluorinated oil” designates an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0053] Preferably, the oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils.

[0054] More preferably, the oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils polar such as ester oils, e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, triglycerides, isopropyl lauroyl sar-cosinate.

[0055] Examples of triglycerides include fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, such as caprylic / capric triglycerides, Ricinus communais (castor) oil, Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, Linum usitatissimum (flax) oil, P ersea oil gratissima (avocado), Macadamia temifolia (macadamia) seed oil, Limnanthes alba (limnanthe) seed oil, Olea europaea (olive) fruit oil, canola oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil, Elaeis guneenaeis guineensis (palm) seed oil, Punica granatum (pomegranate), seed oil Helianthus annuus (sunflower) oil, Glycine soja (soybean) oil, Zea mays (corn) germ oil, Carthamus tinctorius (safflower) seed oil, Sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil, Oryza saliva (rice) oil and Bertholletia excelsa (Brazil nut) seed oil.

[0056] The oil may be, for example, present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty alcohols

[0057] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain length of 12 to 18.

[0058] Preferably, the fatty alcohol has a carbon chain length of 12 to 16.

[0059] For the purposes of the invention, the fatty alcohol is linear.

[0060] The fatty alcohol suitable for use in the invention is preferably selected from lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof; and preferably selected from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0061] As commercial lauric alcohol products, we can cite, for example, the product sold under the name MAGNOL-1216MB by the company MAGNAKRON.

[0062] As commercial products of myristyl alcohol, mention may be made, for example, of the product sold under the name LANETTE® 14 by the company BASF.

[0063] Commercial cetyl alcohol products include, for example, the products sold under the names Ecorol® 16 / 98 F and Ecorol® 16 / 98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Tegoalkanol® 16 sold by Evonik Goldschmidt, Lanette® 16 sold by Cognis, Vegarol® 1698 sold by WF, Alkonat® 1698 P sold by Oxiteno, Cetyl Alcohol 98% Min sold by Emery Oleochemicals, Ginol® 16 (98%) sold by Godrej Industries, Nacol® 16-98 sold by Sasol, Kalcol® 6098 sold by Kao, and Acilol® 16 sold by Aegis Chemical.

[0064] Advantageously, the fatty alcohol is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants

[0065] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one surfactant.

[0066] The surfactant is not particularly limited and may be selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants. Preferably, the surfactant is selected from anionic surfactants and nonionic surfactants. Anionic surfactants

[0067] The expression “anionic surfactant” designates a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

[0068] In the present description, a species is said to be “anionic” when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

[0069] The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) type surfactants. It goes without saying that a mixture of these surfactants may be used.

[0070] It is understood in this description that:

[0071] - the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one function because carboxylic or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0072] - the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise carboxylate functions; and

[0073] - the anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include carboxylate or sulfonate functions.

[0074] The carboxylic anionic surfactants which can be used therefore comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-).

[0075] They can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyl-lactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, carboxylates such as stearates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds;

[0076] the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 atoms of carbon, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0077] these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0078] It is also possible to use C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkylpolyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkylpolyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkylpolyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, as well as their salts.

[0079] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made more particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and in particular ethylene oxide, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the name Akypo.

[0080] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids which can be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1): OCHSCOOA 0)

[0081] in which:

[0082] - Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a radical alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical in C9-C2i,

[0083] preferably, Ri is a C8-C20 and preferably C8-C18 alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,

[0084] - n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preference from 2 to 10,

[0085] - A represents H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine residue or triethanolamine.

[0086] It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different RI groups.

[0087] The particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

[0088] - RI represents a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or oc- radical tylphenyl,

[0089] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0090] - n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.

[0091] Even more preferably, the compounds of formula (1) are used in which R denotes a C[2]alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10.

[0092] Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0093] - acylglutamates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C2o, such as stearoyl- glutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate, sodium stearoylglutamate;

[0094] - acylsarcosinates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmitoyl- sarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

[0095] - acyllactylates, in particular C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behenoyl- lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

[0096] - C6-C24 acylglycinates and in particular C12-C20;

[0097] - alkyl ether carboxylates (C6-C24) and in particular ether carboxylates alkyl (C12-C20);

[0098] - polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl ether (amido) carboxylic acids, particularly those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0099] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohols.

[0100] The anionic sulfonate surfactants which can be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3-).

[0101] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

[0102] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0103] these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0104] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0105] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acyltaurates, in particular methylstea- sodium royltaurate;

[0106] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular lauryl- sulfosuccinates;

[0107] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

[0108] - acylisethionates (C6-C24) and preferably acylisethionates (C12-C18),

[0109] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohols.

[0110] The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3-).

[0111] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

[0112] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0113] these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0114] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0115] - alkyl sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C2o,

[0116] - alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, comprising preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0117] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0118] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, alkaline earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.

[0119] Among the amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned, there may be included monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0120] Alkali or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

[0121] Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0122] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;

[0123] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0124] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, laurylsulfo- succinates in particular;

[0125] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

[0126] - acylisethionates (C6-C24) and preferably acylisethionates (C12-C18);

[0127] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; in particular palmitoyl- sarcosinates;

[0128] - alkyl ether carboxylates (C6-C24), preferably ether carboxylates alkyl (C12-C20);

[0129] - polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl ether (amido) carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and in particular ethylene oxide;

[0130] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acyltaurates;

[0131] - C6-C24 acylglutamates and in particular C12-C20;

[0132] - C12-C20 carboxylates;

[0133] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acylglycinates;

[0134] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohols. Nonionic surfactants

[0135] They may be chosen from alcohols, α-diols and alkylphenols (in Cr20), these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups being able to range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups being able to range from 2 to 30; or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0136] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; polyethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-u alkyl / amine oxides or N-(C10-u acyl / aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0137] Mention may also be made of non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula:

[0138] R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v

[0139] in which:

[0140] - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an al-kylphenyl radical whose alkyl radical, linear or branched, comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms carbon and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0141] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0142] - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0143] -1 denotes a range from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4,

[0144] - v denotes a range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.

[0145] Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of formula described above in which:

[0146] - Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

[0147] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0148] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

[0149] - G represents glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

[0150] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0151] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of the 1-4 type. 1,4-alkyl(C8 / C16)(poly)glucosides, and in particular decyl glucosides, caprylyl / capryl glucosides, and coco glucoside are more particularly preferred.

[0152] Among the commercial products, we can cite the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.

[0153] Preferably, C8 / C161,4 alkyl(poly)glycosides are used, in particular in the form of a 53% aqueous solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

[0154] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from C6-C24 alkylpolyglycosides, and more particularly C8-C18 alkyl(poly)glycosides, polyethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, polyethoxylated C8-C30 fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters, these compounds preferably containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0155] Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from:

[0156] - C12-C20 acylglutamates, such as disodium stearoylglutamate, stearoyl- sodium glutamate;

[0157] - C12-C20 acyltaurates, in particular sodium methylstearoyltaurate;

[0158] - CM-i8 carboxylates such as stearates, in particular sodium stearate;

[0159] - C8-Ci8 alkyl(poly)glycosides, such as coco-glucoside;

[0160] - polyethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 40 oxide units ethylene, such as polysorbate 60;

[0161] -polyethoxylated C8-C30 fatty alcohols containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, such as steareth-2; and

[0162] - a mixture of these.

[0163] Advantageously, the surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Solubilizing agents

[0164] According to the first aspect, when the fatty alcohol is solid at room temperature, the composition further comprises at least one solubilizing agent.

[0165] In the context of the present invention, the solubilizing agent is used to dissolve the fatty alcohol and reduce its crystallization temperature when mixed with the oily phase.

[0166] The solubility of the fatty alcohol in the solubilizing agent is not less than 5 g / 100 g of solubilizing agent.

[0167] As used herein, solubility is determined as follows:

[0168] The fatty alcohol is weighted in a solubilizing agent by gently heating until completely dissolved, then the solution is cooled to room temperature and the development of solid crystals in the solution is visually observed. The maximum concentration of the fatty alcohol that can be added to the solvent without development of crystals at room temperature after three days is the solubility of the fatty alcohol in this solubilizing agent.

[0169] Advantageously, the solubilizing agent is chosen from weak alcohols and polyols, preferably from ethanol, butanol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and a mixture thereof.

[0170] If present, advantageously, the solubilizing agent is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] Oil-soluble or oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredients

[0172] The composition according to the present invention may comprise an oil-soluble or oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient.

[0173] Optionally, the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient is heat and / or water sensitive.

[0174] As used herein, the term "the cosmetic active ingredient is sensitive to heat and / or water" means that the cosmetic active ingredient degrades upon contact heat and / or water.

[0175] For example, the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient may be selected from ferulic acid, beta-carotene, vitamin E (tocopherol), enzymes, peptides, postbiotics, and encapsulated probiotics.

[0176] If present, advantageously, the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0177] The composition of the present invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to the above-mentioned oil-soluble or oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient.

[0178] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and their derivatives; sunscreens; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; agents acting on microcirculation and mixtures thereof.

[0179] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active ingredient depending on the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0180] The composition of the present invention may comprise or may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents (e.g., tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, thickeners (such as xanthan gum, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxypropyl guar; oily thickeners such as polyurethane, polyamide, ethylcellulose), pH regulators (e.g., triethanolamine, citric acid, and sodium hydroxide), fillers (e.g., aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and polymethylsisesquioxane), and mixtures thereof.

[0181] A person skilled in the art can select the amount of adjuvants or additives supplemented supplementary so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0182] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0183] (i) from 1% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol having a length of carbon chain from 12 to 16;

[0184] (ii) from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight of at least one surfactant chosen from C12-C20 acyl-taurates;

[0185] (iii) from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one solubilizing agent chosen from ethanol, butanol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and a mixture thereof; and

[0186] (iv) from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one oil-soluble or oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient. Dosage form and process

[0187] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0188] The composition according to the present invention comprises a lamellar structure or a lamellar structured phase.

[0189] The expression "lamellar structure" or "lamellar structured phase" means a liquid crystalline structure, or a swollen or non-swollen crystalline lamellar hydrate phase, with planar symmetry, comprising several amphiphilic bilayers arranged in parallel and separated by a liquid medium which is generally water. The lamellar structure exhibits a characteristic optical effect when observed under an optical microscope under 90° cross-polarized light with unique optical effects, as shown in [Fig.l]. If the unique optical effect can be observed, it means that the lamellar structure is formed.

[0190] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.

[0191] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0192] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting. EXAMPLES

[0193] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0194] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier Myristyl Alcohol LANETTE® 14 BASF Dipropylene Glycol Dipropylene Glycol LO+ DOW Butylene Glycol 1,3 Butylene Glycol ALZO Ethanol Ethyl Alcohol 99n AROMA HOLLY LIMITED Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride WILFARESTER MCT 7030 RSPO MB WILMAR Glycerin CremerGLYC Refined Glycerin 99.7% RSPO MB CREMER OLEO (IOI) Propylene Glycol 1,2-Propyleneglycol Care BASF Lauryl Alcohol MAGNOL-1216MB MAGNAKRON Ferulic Acid ORYZA FERULIX ORYZA OIL & FAT CHEMICAL Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate Nikkol SMT NIKKO Beta-Carotene Natpure® COL RED LC318L SENSIENT Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate ELDEW® SL-205 AJINOMOTO

[0195] Invention Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3

[0196] The compositions of the inventive examples (IE.) 1 to 7 and of the comparative examples (CE.) 1 to 3 were prepared according to the quantities indicated in table 2. The quantity of each component is given in % by weight of the active material relative to the total weight of the composition which contains it.

[0197] [Tables2] Components DI 1 El. 2 DI 3 El. 4 DI 5 El. 6 DI 7 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 Butylene glycol 6.00 Propylene glycol 6.00 0.50 6.00 0.50 0.50 6.00 Dipropylene glycol 4.00 Phenoxyethanol 1.00 1.00 Glycerin 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 Xanthan gum 2.00 2.00 Lauryl alcohol 7.00 7.00 7.00 Myristyl alcohol 6.30 6.00 6.00 6.30 6.30 Sodium methylstearoyl taurate 0.78 0.90 0.70 0.70 0.78 0.90 0.90 0.46 0.78 0.78 Ferulic Acid 0.50 Beta-Carotene 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.16 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate 10.00 Water 56.92 62.10 57.30 59.30 56.41 61.09 61.1 62.73 59.71 85.71 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35

[0198] The compositions of the invention examples (E1) 1 to 7 represent compositions according to the present invention.

[0199] The composition of Comparative Example 1 comprises a solid fatty alcohol at tem- room temperature but does not include a solubilizing agent.

[0200] The compositions of Comparative Examples 2 and 3 do not comprise fatty alcohol having a carbon chain length of 12 to 18. Preparation process

[0201] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking as an example the composition of Invention Example 5:

[0202] 1). Mix myristyl alcohol with caprylic / capric triglyceride as oil phase, then heat above 45°C to completely melt the myristal alcohol;

[0203] 2). Add propylene glycol to the oil phase and cool below 30°C;

[0204] 3). Add beta-carotene pre-dissolved in Helianthus Annuus seed oil (sunflower) in the oil phase;

[0205] 4). Prepare the aqueous phase in a separate container by mixing methylstea- sodium royltaurate with water and heating until the sodium methylstea-royltaurate is completely dissolved, then adding glycerin to this container, and cooling below 30°C;

[0206] 5). Add the oily phase to the aqueous phase, homogenize until obtaining of a homogeneous emulsion. Assessment

[0207] The formation of a lamellar structure in each obtained composition was evaluated as follows.

[0208] The compositions were observed using a Leica DLMB microscope under 90° cross-polarized light, and microscopic photographs were taken. If optical effects characteristic of the lamellar structure were observed, this meant that the lamellar structure was formed.

[0209] [Fig. 1] shows a polarized light microscopy image of the composition obtained in inventive example 1, in which the spherical structures are dispersed oil phases (indicated by 1'), which are surrounded by the multilamellar interfaces (indicated by 2'), and the alternating orange and blue colored bands are the multilamellar aqueous phase (indicated by 3').

[0210] Similar photographs were also obtained for the compositions of inventive examples 2 to 4 (EL 2 to 4).

[0211] [Fig.2] shows a polarized light microscopy image of the composition obtained in inventive example 5, in which B-carotene (indicated by 1) is dispersed in the oil phase, surrounded by multilamellar interphases (indicated by 2), and incorporated into the continuous lamellar phase (indicated by 3).

[0212] Similar photos were also obtained for the compositions of the examples of invention 5 to 7 (El. 5 to 7).

[0213] It can be seen that a lamellar structure is formed in the compositions of inventive examples 1 to 7 (El. 1 to 7).

[0214] Similar photos were not obtained for the compositions of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 (EC. 1 to 3). Formulation stability

[0215] The stability of the obtained composition was evaluated by incubating the composition at 45°C for two months, then observing the phase separation and the change in appearance. The stability test is successful if there is no change from the initial state. Degradation of P-carotene at 45°C for 1 month

[0216] A stock solution of [3-carotene] was made by weighing 25 mg of raw material containing 31 wt% [3-carotene] in sunflower oil into a 25 mL volumetric flask and diluting with tetrahydrofuran (THF, inhibitor-free, HPLC grade, >99%, from Sigma-Aldrich) to a volume of 25 mL. The concentration of [3-carotene] in the stock solution was 310 mg / L. A calibration curve of [3-carotene] was prepared using this stock solution, and a five-point standard was generated with theoretical [3-carotene] concentrations of 1.55, 2.325, 3.100, 4.650, and 6.200 mg / L in THF. The absorbance of [3-carotene] was measured at its maximum absorbance wavelength of 450 nm using the Thermo Scientific Evolution 220 UV-Visible spectrophotometer. THF was used as a blank.An appropriate amount of a sample containing [3-carotene was then weighed according to the calibration range of the standard curve to determine its [3-carotene concentration and degradation. The samples were dissolved in THF and then filtered with PALL GxF / GHP 0.45 µm filter to obtain the test solution. The same emulsion base without the raw material containing 31 wt% [3-carotene in sunflower oil was also prepared to identify the matrix effect.

[0217] In order to minimize the impact of light on [3-carotene due to its photosensitivity, sample preparations were carried out in a gray room (yellow light room).

[0218] The degradation of [3-carotene at 45°C for 1 month was calculated according to the following equation:

[0219] (CT0-CT1M) / CT0*100%

[0220] in which

[0221] CT0 indicates the [3-carotene] content of the freshly made sample;

[0222] CTiM indicates the [3-carotene] content of the sample after being stored at 45°C for 1 month.

[0223] The quantification accuracy is ±5%.

[0224] Degradation of ferulic acid at 45°C for 2 months

[0225] The ferulic acid content of each obtained composition was analyzed by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) equipped with a Waters X-Terra RP 1 column (3.9*150 mm, 5 μm). The mobile phase was a 0.1% trifluoroacetic acid and methanol (60:40) solution set at a flow rate of 1 mL / min with a column temperature of 30 °C. The injection volume was 10 μL. A UV detector was set at a wavelength of 323 nm to detect the ferulic acid signals, and the retention time was approximately 4.2 minutes. A standard curve of ferulic acid was prepared by accurately weighing approximately 40 mg (two decimal places) of standard material into a 50 mL volumetric flask and dissolving it with water and methanol in a ratio of 60:40 to obtain a stock solution. 1 mL of the stock solution was diluted into 50 mL, 25 mL, and 10 mL, which were then measured by HPLC to generate the standard curve of ferulic acid.Each composition was weighed into a 50 mL volumetric flask and diluted with a 60:40 water-methanol solution to the predefined volume and mixed in an ultrasonic bath before being injected into the HPLC unit.

[0226] The degradation of ferulic acid at 45°C for 2 months was calculated according to the following equation:

[0227] (CTo-CT2M) / CTO*100%

[0228] in which

[0229] CT0 indicates the ferulic acid content of the freshly made sample;

[0230] CT2M indicates the ferulic acid content of the sample after being stored at 45°C for 2 months.

[0231] The accuracy of the quantification methods is ±5%. Degradation under UV light

[0232] The degradation under UV light of a composition was evaluated by incubating the composition for 24 hours under UV light using an ATLAS 1605021 unit and determining the degradation of the cosmetic active ingredient it contains according to the following equation:

[0233] (Cto-Ct24h) / Cto*1OO%

[0234] in which

[0235] CT0 indicates the cosmetic active ingredient content of the freshly manufactured sample;

[0236] Ct24h indicates the cosmetic active ingredient content of the sample after incubation under UV light for 24 hours.

[0237] The results of formulation stability, degradation under UV light, degradation of [3-carotene at 45°C for 1 month, and degradation of acid ferulic at 45°C for 2 months of each composition prepared above are shown in Table 3.

[0238] [Tables3] Properties El. 1 El. 2 El. 3 El. 4 El. 5 El. 6 El. 7 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Formulation stability Pass Pass Pass Pass Pass Pass Pass Color change Color change Color change Degradation under UV light (%) N / AN / AN / AN / A 15 5 N / A 15 25 30 Degradation of [3-carotene 45 °C / 1 M (%) N / AN / AN / AN / A 15 5 N / A 30 20 30 Degradation of ferulic acid 45 °C / 2 M (%) N / AN / AN / AN / AN / AN / A 4 N / AN / AN / A

[0239] NA: not tested.

[0240] It can be seen that the compositions of inventive examples 1 to 7 have a lamellar structure and have good stability, and that they can provide protection to the oily cosmetic active ingredient contained therein.

Claims

1.

2.

3. Claims Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 1% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain length of 12 to 16; (ii) from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight of at least one surfactant chosen from C12-C20 acyltaurates; (iii) from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one solubilizing agent selected from ethanol, butanol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and a mixture thereof; and (iv) from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one oil-soluble or oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient, said oil-soluble or oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient may be selected from ferulic acid, beta-carotene, vitamin E (tocopherol), enzymes, peptides, postbiotics, and encapsulated probiotics. Composition according to claim 1, having a lamellar structure or a lamellar structured phase. Non-therapeutic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2 to the keratinous materials.

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