Oil-in-water emulsion with C-glycoside and specific surfactants

Abstract

Oil-in-water emulsion with C-glycoside and specific surfactants. The present invention relates to an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion composition, particularly for cosmetic use, comprising a C-glycoside and a mixture of specific surfactants, as well as the uses of this composition. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: O / W emulsion with C-glycoside and specific surfactants

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising a C-glycoside and a mixture of specific surfactants, as well as the uses of this composition.

[0002] Biologically active molecules are commonly used in cosmetic products: their function is to have a biological action on the skin. In this respect, hydrophilic active ingredients, for example of the C-glycoside derivative type, are particularly interesting. In particular, these compounds are effective in treating the problems of skin aging.

[0003] In order to increase their effect, there is a need to increase the penetration of such active ingredients into the skin. Furthermore, there is a need for homogeneous and stable care compositions containing such active ingredients, in particular chosen from C-glycosides, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, which have a stable viscosity over time.

[0004] In particular, compositions comprising such active ingredients, in particular chosen from C-glycosides, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, formulated in an emulsion based on the combination of an alkylpolyglycoside and an acylamino acid such as disodium stearoyl glutamate, generally have non-optimized properties. In particular, a drop of 30 points in viscosity is observed during Rheomat measurements between the start of the measurement and the measurement at 10 minutes, during measurements at room temperature and 24 hours after manufacture.

[0005] There is therefore a need for such compositions, which are stable over time, and without any drop in viscosity observed during measurement.

[0006] Surprisingly, the applicant has discovered that the addition of a particular geminate surfactant, in an emulsion based on C-glycoside and a combination of alkylpolyglycoside and acylamino acid such as disodium stearoyl glutamate, makes it possible to reduce this drop in viscosity, both at room temperature and also at 45°C. Such an addition also makes it possible to increase the penetration of the C-glycoside into the skin.

[0007] The present invention therefore relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, in particular cosmetic and / or dermatological, comprising: - at least one C-glycoside, - at least one C8-C30 alkyl(poly)glycoside, - at least one acylamino acid, and - at least one geminate surfactant.

[0008] The present invention also relates to the use, in particular cosmetic use, of a composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials.

[0009] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the topical application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

[0010] By “keratin materials” is meant skin and / or lips and / or hair.

[0011] The composition according to the invention is an E / O emulsion: it comprises a phase oily dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase.

[0012] The constituents of the composition according to the invention are now described in more detail. C-glycoside

[0013] The composition comprises at least one C-glycoside.

[0014] C-glycoside is a hydrophilic active agent. The term “hydrophilic active agent” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active agent capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

[0015] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 15% by weight of at least one C-glycoside, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 2% to 5% by weight of at least one C-glycoside relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] In particular, the C-glycoside is chosen from the C-glycoside derivatives of the following general formula (I):

[0017] [Chem.l] S'^X—R (I)

[0018] in which: - R denotes an unsubstituted linear alkyl radical in C1-C4, in particular in C1-C2, in particular methyl; - S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, and preferably a -CH(OH)- group;

[0019] as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

[0020] By way of illustration and non-limiting example of the C-glycosides of formula (I) which are more particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may in particular be mentioned: - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane; - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane; - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane; - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane; - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; - 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-propan-2'-one; - 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-propan-2'-one; - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane; - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; - as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

[0021] Preferably, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane is used, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane. Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) suitable for the invention may advantageously be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, the INCI name of which is HY-DROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL, notably marketed under the name MEXORYL SBB® or MEXORYL SCN® by CHIMEX. Such a C-glycoside may be present in concentrated form, i.e. in a hydrophilic dispersion concentrated at 70% active material; such a C-glycoside is marketed under the name MEXORYL SCS by NOVEAL. Salts of C-glycosides of formula (I) suitable for the invention may include conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.Examples that may be mentioned include salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Salts of organic acids that may contain one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups may also be mentioned. These may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids. These acids may also contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Examples that may be mentioned include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

[0022] Acceptable solvates for the compounds described above include conventional solvates such as those formed during the last step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. For example, solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol may be mentioned.

[0023] C-glycosides (I) are known from document WO 02 / 051828. AlkylC8-C30(poly)glycosides

[0024] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one C8-C30 alkyl(poly)glycoside.

[0025] These surfactants can be more particularly represented by the following general formula:

[0026] RlO-(R2O)t (G)v

[0027] in which RI represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical comprising approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 8 to 24 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, preferably 0 to 3; and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably 1 to 4.

[0028] It is further noted that each unit of the polysaccharide portion of the alkylpolyglycoside may be in the α or β isomeric form, in the L or D form, and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of the furanoside or pyranoside type.

[0029] It is of course possible to use mixtures of alkylpolysaccharides, which may differ from each other by the nature of the alkyl unit carried and / or the nature of the carrying polysaccharide chain.

[0030] According to a particular embodiment, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of formula described above in which RI more particularly denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and more particularly still equal to 0, G can denote glucose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose or starch, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v in the above formula, can range from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5, and more preferably from 1.1 to 2.

[0031] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably 1-4.

[0032] It is possible in particular to use coco(poly)glucoside (for example MONTANOV 82® and MONTANOV S®), arachidyl(poly)glucoside (for example MONTANOV 202®), Myristyl(poly)glucoside (for example MONTANOV 14®), cetylstearyl(poly)glucoside (for example MONTANOV 68®), C12-C20 alkyl(poly)glucosides (for example MONTANOV L®), isostearyl(poly)glucoside (for example Montanov WO 18®) or octyldodecyl(poly)xyloside (for example FLUIDANOV 20X®).

[0033] Cetylstearyl(poly)glucoside (cetearylglucoside) such as the commercial product MONTANOV 68® from SEPPIC will be preferred.

[0034] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of alkyl(poly)glycosides varies from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] Fatty alcohol comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms

[0036] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C8-40 fatty alcohol.

[0037] Preferably, the C8-C30 alkyl(poly)glycoside is mixed with at least one C8-40 fatty alcohol.

[0038] The term “C8-40 fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl OH group.

[0039] Preferably, the fatty alcohols are R-OH structures with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0040] The fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture, lauryl or lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol), myristyl or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol), stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol), and myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol).

[0041] Preferably, the fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0042] Preferably, the fatty alcohol(s) are present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Acylamino acid

[0043] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one acylamino acid.

[0044] As acylamino acids, we can cite for example sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCS-12, sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCK-12, disodium cocoyl glutamate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft ECS-22SB, sodium lauroyl glutamate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LSI 1, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate marketed by Seppic under the name ORAMIX L 30, sodium and disodium stearoyl glutamate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft HS21 P and HS11 Pf and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate marketed by ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ under the name Protelan LS 9011 / C.

[0045] Mention may also be made of the sodium salt of oat lauroyl amino acids such as Proteol OAT marketed by the company Seppic or the compound bearing the INCI name sodium cocoyl amino acids such as Proteol SAV 5OS from Seppic.

[0046] The amino acid derivatives may be chosen, for example, from sarcosinates and in particular acylsarcosinates such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate marketed under the name SARKOSYL NL 97® by the company Ciba or marketed under the name ORAMIX L 30® by the company Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, marketed under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN® by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, marketed under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN® by the company Nikkol; alaninates such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, marketed under the name SODIUM NIKKOL ALANINATE LN 30® by the company Nikkol or marketed under the name ALANONE ALE®, by the company Kawaken, and N-lauroyl N-methylalanine triethanolamine, marketed under the name ALANONE ALTA ® by the company Kawaken;aspartates such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroylaspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoylaspartate, marketed under the name ASPARACK ® by the company Mitsubishi; citrates.

[0047] Mention may also be made of alkali metal salts of acyl (C10-C22) glutamic acids, preferably an alkali metal salt of acyl (C12-C20) glutamic acids, and for example an alkali metal salt of acyl (C16-C10) glutamic acids. The alkali metal salts are, for example, sodium salts, potassium salts and lithium salts, and preferably sodium salts. It may in particular be one of the alkali metal salts of stearoyl glutamic acid, lauroyl glutamic acid, acyl C16 glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid or hydrogenated tallow acyl glutamic acid.

[0048] Preferably, the acylamino acid is selected from sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, hydrogenated tallow acyl sodium glutamate, and their mixtures, and preferably sodium stearoyl glutamate.

[0049] By way of illustration, we can, for example, cite disodium steroyl glutamate marketed by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference AMISOFT HS 11 PF®.

[0050] Preferably, the acylamino acid is present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Geminal surfactant

[0051] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one geminal surfactant.

[0052] By "geminal surfactant" is meant a surfactant comprising at least two hydrophilic heads linked together by a spacer, and at least two hydrophobic tails, each hydrophobic tail being linked to a hydrophilic head. The spacer may be polar or apolar, flexible or rigid, short or long. The hydrophilic heads may be anionic, cationic or non-ionic. In particular, the geminal surfactant comprises two hydrophilic heads linked together by a spacer, and two hydrophobic tails.

[0053] Preferably, the geminate surfactant is chosen from the compounds of the following chemical formula (A) and (B), as well as their stereoisomers:

[0054] [Chem.2] y (ÇHJn CH3(CH2)I — CONH “CH (CH^ |=O CH—Y' (CH2)4 NH |=O (CH^ CH3(CH2)|-CONH ch (CH^ Y' (HAS)

[0055] in which:

[0056] Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group;

[0057] jl, kl, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (jl, kl, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2); and

[0058] 1 represents an integer ranging from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and in a manner advantageous from 10 to 12,

[0059] and

[0060] [Chem.3]

[0061] in which:

[0062] RI and R3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms;

[0063] R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0064] X and Y denote, independently of each other, a group -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O)bZ where

[0065] Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, where M represents H or an alkali or alkaline-earth or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion,

[0066] a ranges from 0 to 15,

[0067] b ranges from 0 to 10, and

[0068] the sum of a + b ranges from 1 to 25; and

[0069] n ranges from 1 to 10.

[0070] Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one geminal surfactant of chemical formula (A), or one of its stereoisomers:

[0071] [Chem.2] y (ÇH^ ch3(ch2), -conh -ch (ch^ ÇH—Y' (çh2)4 NH |=O (CH^ CHgCCH^-CONH CH (CH^ Y' (HAS)

[0072] in which:

[0073] Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group;

[0074] jl, kl, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (jl, kl, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2); and

[0075] 1 represents an integer ranging from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and in a manner advantageous from 10 to 12.

[0076] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (A), 1 represents an integer ranging from 8 to 12, j 1 = j2 = 0, and kl = k2 = 2.

[0077] Preferably, in formula (A), Y' represents -COONa, j 1 = j2 = 0, kl = k2 = 2; and 1 = 10.

[0078] As examples of geminate surfactants of formula (A), mention may be made of sodium di-lauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine. Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is particularly preferable. Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is marketed by Asahi Kasei Chemicals under the names PELLICER L-30, PELLICER LB-30G and PELLICER LB-10.

[0079] The geminal surfactant(s) of formula (A) is (are) described in particular in application WO 2004 / 020394.

[0080] The composition in accordance with the invention may alternatively comprise at least one geminal surfactant of chemical formula (B):

[0081] [Chem.3]

[0082] in which:

[0083] RI and R3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms;

[0084] R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0085] X and Y denote, independently of each other, a group -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O)bZ where

[0086] Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, where M represents H or an alkali or alkaline-earth or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion,

[0087] a ranges from 0 to 15,

[0088] b ranges from 0 to 10, and

[0089] the sum of a + b ranges from 1 to 25; and

[0090] n ranges from 1 to 10.

[0091] The geminate surfactant of formula (B) is preferably such that each of the R1-CO- and R3-CO- groups comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes a residue of coconut fatty acids (mainly comprising lauric acid and myristic acid).

[0092] Furthermore, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has an average value ranging from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the -SO3M group where M is preferably an alkali ion such as a sodium ion.

[0093] The spacer R2 is advantageously made up of a linear C1-C3 alkylene chain, and preferably an ethylene chain (CH2CH2).

[0094] Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.

[0095] A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name Sodium di-cocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure:

[0096] [Chem.4] O lî ^(PEG-15)—SO,Na cocoyl —( —N CH, I “ CH, cocoyl —C —N —(PEG. J 5, —so3Na O

[0097] it being understood that PEG represents the group -CH2CH2O-, and cocoyl represents the residue of coconut fatty acids.

[0098] This surfactant has a molecular structure very close to that of ceramide-3.

[0099] Preferably, the geminate surfactant of formula (B) is used in a mixture with other surfactants, and in particular in a mixture with (a) an ester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably a C14-C20 such as a stearate) and glyceryl, (b) a diester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably a C14-C20 such as a stearate) and citric acid and glycerol (in particular a diester of a C6-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl monocitrate), and (c) a C10-C30 fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).

[0100] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl monocitrate stearate and behenyl alcohol.

[0101] More preferably, the geminate surfactant of formula (B) represents from 10 to 20% by weight, and advantageously 15% by weight; the C6-C22 fatty acid ester of glyceryl represents from 30 to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight; the C6-C22 fatty acid diester of citric acid and glycerol represents from 10 to 20% by weight, advantageously 15% by weight; and the C10-C30 fatty alcohol represents from 30 to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the surfactant mixture containing the geminate surfactant.

[0102] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of 10 to 20% (in particular 15%) by weight of Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, 30 to 40% (in particular 35%) by weight of glyceryl stearate, 10 to 20% (in particular 15%) by weight of glyceryl monocitrate stearate, 30 to 40% (in particular 35%) by weight of behenyl alcohol, relative to the total weight of the mixture of surfactants containing the geminate surfactant.

[0103] Alternatively, the geminate surfactant of formula (B) may be used in admixture with an anionic surfactant such as a salt of lauric acid ester and lactyl lactate, such as sodium lauroyl lactylate. In this case, the geminate surfactant preferably represents from 30 to 50% by weight, and the anionic surfactant represents from 50 to 70% by weight, for example. relative to the total weight of the surfactant mixture.

[0104] For example, the geminate surfactant of formula (B) can be used in a mixture with other surfactants in the form of products marketed by the company SASOL under the names CERALUTION®, and in particular the following products:

[0105] Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate,

[0106] Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate,

[0107] Ceralution® ES: Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate and Ceteareth-25, or

[0108] Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Arabia Gum, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI names).

[0109] The geminate surfactant represents from 3 to 50% of the weight of these mixtures.

[0110] The geminal surfactant(s) may be present in the composition in one amount of active material ranging from 0.01 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.07 to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0111] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

[0112] The aqueous phase comprises at least water. Depending on the dosage form of the composition, the amount of aqueous phase may range from 1 to 99% by weight, preferably from 5 to 98% by weight, better still from 30 to 95% by weight, and even better still from 40 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] The amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 40% by weight, better still at least 50% by weight.

[0114] The aqueous phase may comprise at least one organic solvent miscible with water at room temperature (25°C) such as, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol; polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] The composition may also comprise at least one polymer, in particular hy drophile. Such a polymer is preferably a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer (homo- or copolymer) of AMPS®.

[0116] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol, and even more preferably from 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.

[0117] As water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS suitable for the invention, we can cite for example crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid such as that used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid (INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLDIMEHYLTAURAMIDE) such as the product sold under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by the company Clariant.

[0118] As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, mention may be made, for example, of:

[0119] - crosslinked acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers of sodium such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: POLYACRYLAMIDE / C13-C14 ISOPARAFFIN / LAURETH-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / ISO-HEXADECANE / POLYSORBATE-80) by the company SEPPIC;

[0120] - copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name ARISTOFLEX AVC® by the company CLARIANT (CTFA name: AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIME-THYLTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER) but neutralized by soda or potash;

[0121] - copolymers of AMPS® and sodium acrylate, such as for example co AMPS / sodium acrylate polymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL EG® by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV EM (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);

[0122] - copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example co AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate polymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (AND) SQUALANE (AND) POLYSORBATE 60) or as the product marketed under the name COPOLYMER ACRYLAMIDO-2-METHYL PROPANE SULFONATE DE SODIUM / HY- DROXYETHYLACRYLATE such as the commercial product SEPINOV EMT 10 (INCI name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);

[0123] - copolymers of AMPS® and ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate, even tually crosslinked, such as Aristoflex® HMS, which is called AMPS / ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate (25 EO) 80 / 20 copolymer, crosslinked by trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer in INCI name.

[0124] The amount of polymer may range from 0.2 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0125] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oily phase, which preferably comprises at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0126] As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, we can cite for example:

[0127] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

[0128] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

[0129] - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

[0130] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, branched-chain hydrocarbon oils containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and their mixtures, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam® oil;

[0131] - natural or synthetic essential oils such as, for example, oils eucalyptus, lavandin, lavender, vetiver, litsea cubeba, lemon, sandalwood, rosemary, chamomile, savory, nutmeg, cinnamon, hyssop, caraway, orange, geraniol, cade and bergamot;

[0132] - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetyl stearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol;

[0133] - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

[0134] - silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; or

[0135] - mixtures thereof.

[0136] Other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, cetyl acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Camauba or Candellila wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Cl-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names “KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil”, “BY29” or “EPSX” by the company Dow Corning or under the names “Gransil” by the company Grant Industries.

[0137] These fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example consistency or texture.

[0138] The quantity of oily phase may range for example from 1 to 45%, and for example from 10 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises active ingredients other than C-glycoside and / or cosmetically acceptable excipients.

[0140] By "cosmetically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to discourage the consumer from using this composition.

[0141] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one excipient chosen from preservatives, fillers, coloring materials, perfumes and mixtures thereof.

[0142] The filler may be mineral or organic. The filler may be chosen from synthetic or natural mica; silica powder; talc; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; nylon powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by the company Dow Corning under the name POLYTRAP; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular, the microspheres marketed under the name EXPANCEL by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those marketed under the name TOSPEARL by the company Toshiba Silicone; and mixtures thereof.

[0143] These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] The invention also relates to the use, in particular cosmetic use, of a composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials.

[0145] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the topical application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

[0146] The invention also relates to a cosmetic and / or aesthetic care method comprising the topical application to keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0147] Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

[0148] In the examples, all percentages are given by mass, unless otherwise indicated, and the temperature is ambient (20°C) and expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated. otherwise indicated, and pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise indicated.

[0149] In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are given in % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (% w / w).

[0150] Example 1: Comparison of the viscosities of a cosmetic composition according to the invention with a comparative composition

[0151] The comparative compositions and those according to the invention are prepared according to the following protocol:

[0152] Formulation with 6-blade rotor with wide-slotted stator - Cold / hot process:

[0153] 1- Solubilization at room temperature of phase A; hyaluronic acid (hydrolyzed) is pre-dispersed in the humectant (glycerin) before its introduction into phase A,

[0154] 2- Heating of phase B to 75°C, addition of the fillers (phase Bl) just before putting in emulsion,

[0155] 3- Emulsification at 65°C, to be able to emulsify at a speed of at least 2000 rpm, addition of ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate,

[0156] 4- Dilution of the formula with the addition of phase C,

[0157] 5- At a temperature below 40°C, introduce the aluminum starch octenyl- succinate (phase F) and hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (phase E),

[0158] 6- Add polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7 (phase Dl) under deflocculator. Viscosity

[0159] The viscosity of the compositions is measured by the following protocol, after 24 hours at room temperature (25°C), and after 2 months at 45°C:

[0160] The viscosity is measured using a Rheomat 180, at 25°C, 1 atm., with a spindle 3, the rotation speed being 200 rpm, at T0 and after 10 minutes (T10), the shear rate being 200 s1. The viscosity is read on the device in deviation units (DU).

[0161] [Tables 1] Phase INCI Name Comparative composition (% w / w) Composition according to the invention (% w / w) A Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid 0.10 0.10 A Chelating agent 0.10 0.10 A SODIUM DILAURAMIDO- GLUTAMIDE LYSINE (Pellicer LB-30G from Asahi Kasei: mixture with butylene glycol and water) 0.35 (*0.0955% active ingredient) A ADENOSINE 0.10 0.10 A Humectant 10.00 10 A Base for pH 0.05 0.05 Al Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 B Stearic acid 0.75 0.75 B Preservative 0.70 0.7 B DIMETHICONE 3.00 3 B OCTYLDODECANOL 1.80 1.8 B Capryloyl salicylic acid 0.30 0.3 B ISOPROPYL ISOSTEARATE 2.70 2.7 B BEHENYL ALCOHOL 1.50 1.5 B CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE (Montanov 68® from Seppic) 0.60 0.6 B DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (Amisoft HS 11 PF® from Ajinomoto) 0.30 0.3 B ISOHEXADECANE 4.60 4.6 B PEG-100 STEARATE 0.20 0.2 B CETYL ALCOHOL 1.70 1.7 B1 NYLON-12 2.00 2 B1 POLYETHYLENE 0.50 0.5 C Water 30.00 30 D AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYL- DIMETHYL TAURATE 1.20 1.2 DI POLYACRYLAMIDE (and) C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN (and) LAURETH-7 0.80 0.8 E HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDRO- PYRANTRIOL (MEXORYL SBB® from Chimex) 9.00 (*3% active matter) 9 (*3% active matter) F Starch loading 3.00 3 Mobile UD viscosity 3, after 24h at room temperature (25°C) T0: 114UD T10: 66UD T0: 130UD T10: 100UD Mobile UD viscosity 3, after 2 months at 45°C T0: 23UD T10: 21UD T0: 140 UD T10: 130UD

[0162] The results clearly show that only the formula according to the invention has a stable viscosity at T0 and after 10 minutes, whether at room temperature or at 45°C.

[0163] Example 2: Cosmetic composition according to the invention

[0164] The composition according to the invention is prepared according to the protocol of example 1.

[0165] [Tables2] INCI Phase Composition according to the invention (% W / W) A Water Qsp 100 A CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.2 A Humectant 10 A SODIUM DILAURAMIDO- GLUTAMIDE LYSINE (Pellicer LB-30G from Asahi Kasei: mixture with butylene glycol and water) 0.35 (*0.0955% active ingredient) A Base for pH 0.122 A Dyes 0.00038 A ADENOSINE 0.1 A SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.1 B Fatty alcohol 3.2 B PEG-100 STEARATE 0.2 B ISOHEXADECANE 4.6 B DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (Amisoft HS 11 PF® from Ajinomoto) 0.3 B CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE (Montanov 68® from Seppic) 0.6 B Stearic acid 0.75 B ISOPROPYL ISOSTEARATE 2.7 B Capryloyl salicylic acid 0.3 B OCTYLDODECANOL 1.8 B DIMETHICONE 3 B Preservative Qs B1 LAUROYL LYSINE 0.38 B1 Nitrure de bore 1,28 C Eau 26,05362 D AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYL- DIMETHYL TAURATE 1,3 DI POLYACRYLAMIDE (and) C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN (and) LAURETH-7 0,8 G Parfum 0,3 G RETINYL PALMITATE 0,15 E ACETYL DIPEPTIDE-1 CETYL ESTER 0,1 E HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHY- DROPYRANTRIOL (MEXORYL SBB® de Chimex) 9 (*3% en matière active) F Charge d’amidon 2,33 H Eau 4 H ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE 0,21 H SODIUM CITRATE 0,074

Claims

1. Claims Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic and / or dermatological, comprising: at least one C-glycoside, at least one C8-C30 alkyl(poly)glycoside, at least one acylamino acid, and at least one geminal surfactant, the geminal surfactant being chosen from the compounds of the following chemical formula (A) and (B), as well as their stereoisomers: [Chem. 2] Y' (ÇH^ CH3(CH2)j -conh -ch (CH^ hiH ÇH—Y' (CH2)4 t NH (=0 (CH^ CH3(CH2)| —CONH CH (CHJp Y' (HAS) in which: Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group; j 1, kl, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (j 1, kl, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2); and 1 represents an integer ranging from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and advantageously from 10 to 12, And [Chem. 3]

2. in which: RI and R3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y denote, independently of each other, a group -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O)bZ where Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-C00M, -S03M, -P(0)(0M)2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, where M represents H or an alkali or alkaline-earth or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, a ranges from 0 to 15, b ranges from 0 to 10, and the sum of a + b ranges from 1 to 25; and n ranges from 1 to 10. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the C-glycoside is chosen from the C-glycoside derivatives of the following general formula (I): [Chem.l] (I) in which: R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4 alkyl radical, in particular C1-C2, in particular methyl; S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, and preferably a -CH(OH)- group; as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers, preferably the C-glycoside is C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises from 0.1% to 15% by weight of at least one C-glycoside, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 2% to 5% by weight of at least one C-glycoside relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the C8-C30 alkyl(poly)glycoside is represented by the following general formula: R10-(R20)t (G)v in which RI represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical comprising approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms, an al-kylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 8 to 24 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, preferably 0 to 3;and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4, preferably the C8-C30 alkyl(poly)glycoside is chosen from coco(poly)glucoside, arachidyl(poly)glucoside, Myristyl(poly)glucoside, cetylstearyl(poly)glucoside, C12-C20 alkyl(poly)glucosides, isostearyl(poly)glucoside and octyldodecyl(poly)xyloside, preferably the C8-C30 alkyl(poly)glycoside is cetylstearyl(poly)glucoside.;

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the alkyl(poly)glycoside content varies from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the acylamino acid is chosen from sodium cocoylglycinate, sodium co-coylglycinate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium and disodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium salt of oat lauroyl amino acids, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristo ... sodium, sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, N-lauroyl N-methylalanine triethanolamine, the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroylaspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoylaspartate, alkali metal salts of acyl (C10-C22) glutamic acids and mixtures thereof, preferably the acylamino acid is selected from sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, hydrogenated tallow acyl sodium glutamate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably sodium stearoyl glutamate.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the acylamino acid is present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the geminate surfactant is of formula (A), preferably chosen from sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine, preferably is sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine.

9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the geminate surfactant is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.01% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.07% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous phase comprising at least water, preferably in an amount of at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 40% by weight, better still at least 50% by weight, and optionally at least one organic solvent miscible with water at room temperature, preferably chosen from substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms and their mixtures; preferably it also comprises at least one hydrophilic polymer.

11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises at least one oily phase, which preferably comprises at least one oil and optionally other fatty substances.

12. Use, in particular cosmetic, of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 11 for the care of keratin materials.

13. Cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the topical application to the keratin materials of the composition according to one of claims 1 to 11.