MACROSCOPIC DISPERSION WITH DISTRESSED FAT PHASE HIGH IN CATIONIC POLYMER AND PIGMENTS

Abstract

Macroscopic dispersion with a dispersed oil phase containing a high concentration of cationic polymer and pigments. The present invention relates generally to macroscopic dispersions containing a high concentration of cationic polymer and pigments, as well as their uses in the cosmetic field, and in particular their use as makeup compositions, especially foundation. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: MACROSCOPIC DISPERSION WITH HIGH-CONTENT DISPERSED FAT PHASE CATIONIC POLYMER AND PIGMENTS

[0001] The present invention relates generally to dispersions with high content of cationic polymer and pigments, as well as their uses in the cosmetic field, and in particular their uses as makeup compositions, especially foundation.

[0002] One of the main objectives in cosmetics is to improve the external appearance of the skin, particularly the face. Generally, foundations are used to enhance skin features or conceal imperfections. Due to their powdery and insoluble nature, pigments are difficult to incorporate into the dispersed phase of the dispersions.

[0003] Thus, it often proves complicated to add significant amounts of pigments to emulsified systems, particularly to dispersed phases, without altering their stability, sensory properties, and the quality of the film deposited on keratinous materials, especially skin. Furthermore, it is difficult to reconcile conflicting technical performance characteristics, such as coverage and a feeling of freshness or even hydration, within the same composition. These problems are further exacerbated when considering a dispersion comprising a phase dispersed in the form of macroscopic droplets.

[0004] Thus, in the case of complexion makeup, the preferred emulsifying systems are primarily inverse emulsions with pigments in the continuous phase, given the good level of coverage and homogeneous appearance they provide compared to direct emulsions. Their weakness, however, is a significant oily and sticky feeling and / or a lack of freshness and naturalness, resulting in a lack of lightness in the textures obtained. The few "direct emulsion" type emulsifying systems currently on the market contain pigments generally present in the continuous aqueous phase, which gives them poor resistance to sweat and humidity.

[0005] The Applicant has, however, succeeded in overcoming these drawbacks by proposing in patent application WO2019053236 compositions in the form of macroscopic dispersions capable of providing a long-lasting visual result on the skin with a feeling of lightness, freshness and good hydration upon application, this expected visual result being preferentially good coverage of colonic imperfections and / or relief imperfections without marking them.

[0006] The Applicant has, however, observed instabilities in these macroscopic dispersions and their microfluidic formation process, particularly in terms of sphericity and / or mechanical resistance of the dispersed phase droplets, especially when the dispersion contains high levels of dispersed oil phase and / or when the dispersed oil phase contains high levels of pigments. These drawbacks make it difficult to obtain pigmented macroscopic dispersions with high percentages of pigmented oil phase, particularly those exceeding 10% by weight of the total dispersion. Without being bound by any particular theory, the Applicant believes that these drawbacks may result from an interaction between the pigments and the cationic polymer, particularly amodimethicone, making this cationic polymer less available for bark formation.

[0007] There therefore remains a need for macroscopic dispersion with a pigmented dispersed oil phase which, on the one hand, is based on a reliable and robust manufacturing process and, on the other hand, includes drops with improved sphericity and mechanical resistance while retaining its advantageous properties in terms of coverage of imperfections and color, sensory feeling, freshness, hydration and lightness upon application and without any sensation of grease, stickiness, lack of glide or hindrance to application.

[0008] Improving the mechanical resistance of macroscopic dispersion drops without altering comfort and sensory perception during application is a constant objective.

[0009] Unexpectedly, the inventors found that it is possible to satisfy the aforementioned objectives with a dispersion according to the invention.

[0010] More specifically, the inventors have found that it is possible to access pigmented macroscopic dispersions with improved properties in terms of sphericity and mechanical resistance of the drops, provided that a dispersion is implemented in which the drops include a shell comprising at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer and in which the content of cationic polymer(s) is adjusted, and in particular is significantly enhanced.

[0011] Thus, the invention relates to a dispersion comprising an oily phase in the form of droplets dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, the dispersed phase and the continuous phase being immiscible with each other at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, wherein the droplets comprise at least a bark and pigments, said bark being formed of at least one anionic polymer comprising at least one carboxylic acid function and at least one cationic polymer comprising at least two amine functions, characterized in that the quantity of amine functions contributed by the cationic polymer, in the phase fat, is between 10.8 pmol and 32.4 pmol per gram of fat phase.

[0012] As can be seen from the examples below, the inventors have observed that a dispersion according to the invention is advantageous in terms of sphericity and mechanical resistance of the dispersed oil phase drops.

[0013] This observation is all the more surprising and unexpected since WO2017046299 teaches, on the contrary, that the mechanical resistance of droplets in a macroscopic dispersion is improved in the presence of low concentrations of cationic polymer(s) relative to the weight of the dispersed oil phase. This finding stems from the identified optimal quantities of amine functions contributed by the cationic polymer in the dispersed oil phase, namely less than 10.5 pmol per gram of dispersed oil phase, and preferably between 0.8 pmol and 2 pmol per gram of dispersed oil phase.

[0014] Moreover, the inventors observed that these advantages do not compromise the qualities of the dispersion according to the invention, which retains its properties in terms of long-lasting wear, coverage of color imperfections and / or texture imperfections without emphasizing them, combined with a feeling of lightness, freshness, and hydration upon application, and therefore without any greasy or sticky sensation, or any hindrance to application. A dispersion according to the invention thus retains a unique tint upon application and a progressive or evolving makeup result.

[0015] By "new / improved tint" is meant a dispersion according to the invention which, when applied to a keratinous material, in particular the skin, and of equivalent nature and pigment content(s), forms a film on said keratinous material having a darker tint than a conventional foundation composition, in particular in emulsion form.

[0016] By "progressive or evolving makeup result", we mean a dispersion according to the invention which, when applied to a keratinous material, in particular the skin, forms a film with a color that is not or only slightly intense, this intensity increasing progressively over a short period of time, that is to say a period of time greater than 15 seconds, preferably greater than 30 seconds, and less than 120 seconds, or even less than 90 seconds and in particular less than 60 seconds.

[0017] In conclusion, the novel makeup properties of a dispersion according to the invention compared to those observed with a dispersion according to WO2019053236 remain.

[0018] The dispersion of the invention has the advantage of being stable, particularly over time and during transport. For the purposes of this invention, "stable" means the absence of creaming or sedimentation of the oil phase droplets dispersed in the continuous phase, the absence of opacification of the aqueous continuous phase, the absence of aggregation of the droplets, and in particular the absence of coalescence or Oswald ripening of the drops together, the absence of leakage of material from the dispersed oil phase to the continuous phase, or vice versa, and the absence of diffusion and / or sedimentation of pigments from the oil phase.

[0019] By "macroscopic", in the sense of the invention, means a dispersion in which all or part of the dispersed oil phase drops are visible to the naked eye, and preferably a dispersion in which the drops having a diameter greater than or equal to 150 µm represent a volume greater than or equal to 60%, or even greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 80%, and better greater than or equal to 90% of the total volume of the dispersed phase and / or at least 60%, or even at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, and better at least 90%, of the drops have an average diameter greater than or equal to 150 µm.

[0020] Preferably, the aforementioned diameter is greater than or equal to 250 µm, in particular greater than or equal to 500 µm, or even greater than or equal to 1,000 µm, and better is between 150 µm and 3,000 µm, preferably between 250 µm and 2,000 µm, and in particular between 500 µm and 1,500 µm.

[0021] The drops of a dispersion according to the invention are advantageously substantially spherical and / or advantageously exhibit apparent monodispersity (i.e., they are perceived by the eye as spheres identical in diameter). In the remainder of this description, the drops may be referred to interchangeably as "macroscopic drops" or "drops (Gl)".

[0022] Thus, in a dispersion according to the invention, the phases constituting it form a macroscopically inhomogeneous mixture.

[0023] The inventors observed that an increase in the average diameter of the drops Gl is correlated with an improvement in the aforementioned advantages of a dispersion according to the invention.

[0024] In the context of the present invention, the aforementioned dispersions may be referred to interchangeably as "emulsions".

[0025] By "immiscible" or "non-miscible" in the context of the present invention, it is understood that the solubility of a first phase in a second phase is advantageously less than 5% by mass.

[0026] According to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention does not comprise a surfactant.

[0027] The invention also relates to a composition comprising at least one dispersion as defined above

[0028] Unless otherwise indicated, throughout the description, reasoning is based on ambient temperature (for example T=25°C ± 2°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg, i.e. 1.013.105 Pa or 1013 mbar). Viscosity

[0029] The viscosity of a dispersion, or even a composition, according to the invention can vary significantly, which makes it possible to obtain varied textures.

[0030] According to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention has a viscosity ranging from 1 mPa.s to 500,000 mPa.s, preferably from 10 mPa.s to 300,000 mPa.s, better from 400 mPa.s to 100,000 mPa.s, and more particularly from 1,000 mPa.s to 30,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25°C.

[0031] Viscosity is measured at ambient temperature, for example T=25°C ± 2°C and at ambient pressure, for example 1013 mbar, by the method described in WO2017046305. Dispersion

[0032] A dispersion according to the invention is liquid at ambient temperature and pressure. In other words, a dispersion according to the invention does not exist in a solid form, particularly compact, powdery or poured, or in stick form.

[0033] The G1 drops of a dispersion according to the invention may be monophasic or multiphasic. Thus, the drops comprise a core (which includes at least one oily phase) and a shell (or membrane or envelope) completely encapsulating the core. The core is preferably liquid at 25 °C. The core itself may comprise one or more phases. Generally, at least one pigment is in the phase (or one of the phases) forming the core.

[0034] According to one embodiment, the droplets of a dispersion according to the invention comprise a liquid core, or at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic, and a shell completely encapsulating said core, said core being monophasic, and in particular based on an oily phase. Such a type of droplets then leads to a simple dispersion comprising two distinct phases: an internal liquid phase, or at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic, represented by at least the oily phase, and an external aqueous phase, preferably in a gelled state, surrounding the internal phase.

[0035] According to another particular embodiment, the drops of a dispersion according to the invention comprise a liquid core or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a shell totally encapsulating said core, said core comprising an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase disposed in the intermediate drop, at least one of the intermediate and / or internal phase(s) forming the oily phase and the pigment(s) being present in the intermediate phase and / or the internal phase.

[0036] Advantageously, the intermediate phase is oily and the internal phase is aqueous or formed of a different oily phase that is immiscible at room temperature and atmospheric pressure with said intermediate phase. Such a type of droplet conducts then to a complex dispersion meaning that the liquid core, viscous or thixotropic, comprises a single intermediate droplet of an intermediate phase, and at least one, preferably a single, internal droplet of an internal phase disposed in the intermediate droplet.

[0037] According to one variant, the core comprises a continuous intermediate phase within which there is a plurality of droplets of internal phase(s).

[0038] According to a particular embodiment:

[0039] - the aqueous continuous phase can be in the form of a direct emulsion (oil-in-water), said emulsion comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a fatty phase dispersed in the form of drops (G2), the size of the drops (G2) preferably being smaller than the size of the drops (G1);

[0040] and / or

[0041] - the fatty phase, or even the intermediate phase and / or the internal phase in the case of a complex dispersion as defined above, may be in the form of an inverse (water-in-oil) emulsion, said emulsion comprising a continuous oily phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in the form of droplets (G3), the size of the droplets (G3) being necessarily smaller than the size of the droplets (Gl) and preferably microscopic.

[0042] In particular, the droplet size (G2) and / or (G3) is less than 500 pm, preferably less than 400 pm, in particular less than 250 pm, better less than 150 pm, in particular less than 100 pm, or even less than 20 pm, and better less than 10 pm. Preferably, the droplet size (G2) and / or (G3) is between 0.1 pm and 200 pm, preferably between 0.25 pm and 100 pm, in particular between 0.5 pm and 50 pm, preferably between 1 pm and 20 pm, and better between 1 pm and 10 pm, or even between 3 pm and 5 pm;

[0043] Optionally, the drops (G2) and / or (G3) comprise a bark formed of at least one anionic polymer, in particular a carbomer, and at least one cationic polymer, in particular an amodimethicone, said anionic and cationic polymers being as defined below.

[0044] Advantageously, the drops (G2) and / or (G3) are not macroscopic, and are therefore microscopic, i.e. not visible to the naked eye.

[0045] In other words, the drops (G2) and / or (G3) are different and independent of the drops (Gl).

[0046] These small droplets (G2) and / or (G3) have an effect on the texture. Indeed, a dispersion according to the invention comprising such finely dispersed droplets (G2) and / or (G3) exhibits improved creaminess.

[0047] Advantageously, the drops (G2) and / or (G3) may further comprise at least one pigment, identical or different from the pigment(s) present in the oil phase of the drops (Gl).

[0048] Advantageously, the intermediate phase further comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent, in particular as defined below. The gelling agent contributes in particular to improving the suspension of the internal droplet(s) located within the intermediate droplet of a dispersion of the invention according to this embodiment. In other words, the gelling agent prevents / avoids creaming or sedimentation of the internal droplet(s) located within the intermediate droplet (Gl) of a dispersion of the invention according to this embodiment. Aqueous continuous phase

[0049] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase has a viscosity between 400 mPa.s and 100,000 mPa.s, preferably between 800 mPa.s and 30,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25°C.

[0050] This viscosity is measured according to the method described above.

[0051] The continuous phase of the dispersions comprises water. In addition to distilled or deionized water, water suitable for the invention may also be natural spring water or floral water.

[0052] According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of water in the aqueous continuous phase is at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, in particular at least 50%, and better at least 60%, in particular between 70% and 98%, and preferably between 75% and 95%, relative to the total mass of said continuous phase.

[0053] The aqueous continuous phase of the dispersion according to the invention may further comprise at least one base. It may comprise a single base or a mixture of several different bases. The presence of at least one base in said aqueous continuous phase contributes in particular to increasing the viscosity of the latter.

[0054] According to one embodiment, the base present in the aqueous phase is a mineral base.

[0055] According to one embodiment, the mineral base is chosen from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.

[0056] Preferably, the mineral base is an alkali metal hydroxide, and in particular NaOH.

[0057] According to one embodiment, the base present in the aqueous phase is an organic base. Examples of organic bases include ammonia, pyridine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, and triethylamine.

[0058] A dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.02% to 1% by weight of base, preferably a mineral base, and in particular NaOH, relative to the weight total of said dispersion.

[0059] Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase, or even the dispersion according to the invention, does not include a surfactant. Bark of the drops

[0060] The drops (Gl) of the dispersed oily phase comprise a bark comprising at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer.

[0061] According to the invention, the drops obtained may have a very thin bark, in particular with a thickness of less than 1% of the diameter of the drops.

[0062] The thickness of the bark is thus preferably less than 1 pm and is therefore too small to be measured by optical methods.

[0063] According to one embodiment, the thickness of the droplet shell is less than 1000 nm, in particular from 1 to 500 nm, preferably less than 100 nm, advantageously less than 50 nm, preferably less than 10 nm.

[0064] The measurement of the thickness of the bark of the drops of the invention can be carried out by the Small-Angle X-ray Scattering method, as implemented in Sato et al. J. Chem. Phys. 111, 1393-1401 (2007).

[0065] For this purpose, the drops are produced using deuterated water, then washed three times with a deuterated oil, such as for example a hydrocarbon type deuterated oil (octane, dodecane, hexadecane).

[0066] After washing, the drops are then transferred into the Neutron cell in order to determine the spectrum I(q); q being the wave vector.

[0067] From this spectrum, classical analytical treatments (REF) are applied in order to determine the thickness of the hydrogenated (non-deuterated) crust.

[0068] Thus, no resistance to the breakage of the bark is felt by the user upon application to a keratinous material, and no residual deposit of said bark is observed. This is referred to as an evanescent bark.

[0069] The drops of a dispersion according to the invention, by the nature and properties of their shells, therefore differ from solid capsules, that is to say capsules with a solid membrane, such as for example those described in WO2010 / 063937.

[0070] The bark surrounding the drops of the dispersed phase gives the drops sufficient resistance and thus reduces, or even prevents, their coalescence.

[0071] This bark is typically formed by coacervation, that is, by precipitation of polymers with opposite charges. Within a coacervate, the bonds linking the charged polymers together are ionic in nature and are generally stronger than the bonds found within a surfactant-type membrane.

[0072] The bark is formed by coacervation of at least two polarity-charged polymers opposite (or polyelectrolyte) and preferably in the presence of a first polymer, of cationic type, and a second polymer, different from the first polymer, of anionic type. These two polymers act as membrane stiffening agents.

[0073] The formation of the coacervate between these two polymers can be caused by a modification of the conditions of the reaction medium (temperature, pH, concentration of reactants, etc.).

[0074] The coacervation reaction results from the neutralization of these two polymers with opposite polarities and allows the formation of a membrane structure through electrostatic interactions between the anionic and cationic polymers. The membrane thus formed around each droplet typically forms a shell that completely encapsulates the core of the droplet, thereby isolating the core of the droplet from the continuous aqueous phase.

[0075] Advantageously, one of the first and second charged polymers is a lipophilic polymer capable of being ionized upon contact with an aqueous phase, and the other of the first and second charged polymers is a hydrophilic polymer capable of being ionized. Anionic polymer

[0076] For the purposes of this description, "anionic-type polymer" or "anionic polymer" means a polymer having anionic-type chemical functions. It may also be referred to as an anionic polyelectrolyte.

[0077] By "anionic-type chemical function", we mean a chemical function AH capable of donating a proton to give a function A. Depending on the conditions of the environment in which it is found, the anionic-type polymer therefore contains chemical functions in the form of AH, or in the form of its conjugate base A.

[0078] As an example of anionic type chemical functions, we can cite the carboxylic acid functions -COOH, possibly present in the form of carboxylate anion -COO.

[0079] An example of an anionic polymer is any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers, at least some of which bear anionic chemical functionalities, such as carboxylic acid functionalities. Examples of such monomers include acrylic acid, maleic acid, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one carboxylic acid functionality. It could, for example, be an anionic polymer comprising monomeric units containing at least one carboxylic acid functionality.

[0080] Preferably, the anionic polymer is hydrophilic, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water.

[0081] Examples of anionic polymers suitable for implementing the invention include acrylic acid or maleic acid copolymers and other monomers, such as acrylamide, alkyl acrylates, C5-C8 alkyl acrylates, C10-C30 alkyl acrylates, C12-C22 alkyl methacrylates, methoxypolyethylene glycol methacrylates, hydroxyester acrylates, acrylate crosspolymers, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] According to the invention, an anionic polymer is preferably a carbomer as described below. This polymer can also be a crosslinked acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name: acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer).

[0083] According to one embodiment, the bark of the drops comprises at least one anionic polymer, such as for example a carbomer.

[0084] In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, "carbomer" means a homopolymer, possibly crosslinked, obtained from the polymerization of acrylic acid. It is therefore a poly(acrylic acid), possibly crosslinked. Examples of carbomers of the invention include those marketed under the names Tego® Carbomer 340FD from Evonik, Carbopol® 981 from Lubrizol, Carbopol ETD 2050 from Lubrizol, and Carbopol Ultrez 10 from Lubrizol.

[0085] In one embodiment, "carbomer" or "Carbopol®" means a high molecular weight acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with allylic sucrose or pentaerythritol allylic ethers (Handbook of Pharma-ceutical Excipients, 5th Edition, pl. 11). For example, this refers to Carbopol® 910, Carbopol® 934, Carbopol® 934P, Carbopol® 940, Carbopol® 941, Carbopol® 71G, Carbopol® 980, Carbopol® 971P, or Carbopol® 974P. In one embodiment, the viscosity of said carbomer is between 4,000 and 60,000 cP at 0.5% w / w.

[0086] Carbomers have other names: polyacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers or carboxy polyethylenes.

[0087] A dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2%, and preferably from 0.10% to 0.5%, of anionic polymer(s), in particular of carbomer(s), relative to the total weight of said dispersion.

[0088] According to the invention, the dispersions according to the invention may comprise a carbomer and a crosslinked acrylates / Cio-30 alkyl acrylate copolymer.

[0089] The aqueous phase according to the invention may also include at least one crosslinked polymer or at least one crosslinked copolymer, said crosslinked polymer or crosslinked copolymer comprising at least one unit derived from the polymerization of one of the following monomers: acrylic or methacrylic acid, alkyl acrylate or methacrylate comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or their salts.

[0090] This is particularly the case when a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one perfumer as defined below.

[0091]

[0092]

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[0104] The aqueous phase may also include a mixture of crosslinked polymers or a mixture of crosslinked copolymers or a mixture of crosslinked polymer(s) and crosslinked copolymer(s). According to the invention, the term "unit derived from the polymerization of a monomer" means that the polymer or copolymer is a polymer or copolymer obtained by polymerization or copolymerization of said monomer. According to one embodiment, the crosslinked polymer or crosslinked copolymer is a crosslinked polyacrylate. The copolymers and crosslinked polymers of the invention are anionic. According to one embodiment, the copolymer is a copolymer of unsaturated carboxylic acid and unsaturated alkyl carboxylate in C| î(b preferably in Ci-C4. Such a copolymer comprises at least one hydrophilic motif of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic motif of the alkyl ester (CrC3o) of unsaturated carboxylic acid type. Preferably, these copolymers are chosen from those whose hydrophilic motif of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) following: H = C — C — GH g \ I II R. O in which: Ri designates H or CH3 or C2H5, i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid motifs, and whose hydrophobic motif of the type alkyl ester (CrC3o) of unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) following: in which: R2 designates H or CH3 or C2H5 (i.e. acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate motifs) and preferably H (acrylate motifs) or CH3 (methacrylate motifs), R3 designating an alkyl radical in Ci-C30, and preferably in Ci-C4. Among this type of copolymer, those formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: will be used in particular. (i) essentially acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of formula (II) described above and in which R2 denotes H or CH3, R3 denotes an alkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, (iii) and a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as diallyl phthalate or trimethylolpropane tri(meth)acrylate, diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, zinc (meth)acrylate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, methylene-bis-acrylamide, and castor oil.

[0105] According to one embodiment, the crosslinked polymer or crosslinked copolymer is a polymer or copolymer of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, and / or alkyl acrylate comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and / or alkyl methacrylate comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0106] According to one embodiment, the crosslinked copolymer is a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and alkyl acrylate comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably 2 carbon atoms.

[0107] In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, "crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and alkyl acrylate comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms" means a crosslinked copolymer resulting from the polymerization of a methacrylic acid monomer and an alkyl acrylate monomer comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0108] Preferably, in this copolymer, methacrylic acid represents from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight of the total weight of the copolymer.

[0109] Preferably, in this copolymer, the alkyl acrylate represents from 15% to 80% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight of the total weight of the copolymer.

[0110] In particular, the alkyl acrylate is selected from alkyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate and butyl acrylate.

[0111] According to one embodiment, the crosslinked polymer or crosslinked copolymer according to the invention, present in the continuous aqueous phase, is chosen from the group consisting of the following polymers or copolymers: Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates crosspolymer-4, Acrylates crosspolymer-3, Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer and Poly-acrylate-14 (INCI names).

[0112] Among the aforementioned polymers, the products sold by LUBRIZOL under the trade names Fixate Superhold (INCI name = Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer), Fixate Freestyle Polymer (INCI name = Acrylates crosspolymer-3), Carbopol® Aqua SF1 (INCI name = Acrylates copolymer) and Carbopol® Aqua SF2 (INCI name = Acrylates crosspolymer-4) are particularly preferred according to the present invention.

[0113] Preferably, the crosslinked copolymer is Carbopol® Aqua SF1 (INCI name = Acrylates copolymer).

[0114] According to one embodiment, the crosslinked copolymer is chosen from crosslinked copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and alkyl acrylates comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0115] According to the invention, the dispersion of the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 3% by weight of crosslinked polymer(s) or crosslinked copolymer(s) relative to the total weight of said dispersion.

[0116] According to the invention, the dispersions according to the invention may comprise a carbomer and a crosslinked copolymer Carbopol® Aqua SF1 (INCI name = Acrylates copolymer). Cationic polymer

[0117] The droplets, and in particular the bark of said droplets, further comprise at least one cationic polymer. They may also comprise several cationic polymers. This cationic polymer is the one mentioned above which forms the bark by coacervation with the anionic polymer.

[0118] For the purposes of this application, and unless otherwise specified, "cationic-type polymer" or "cationic polymer" means a polymer having cationic-type chemical functions. It may also be referred to as a cationic polyelectrolyte.

[0119] Preferably, the cationic polymer is lipophilic or liposoluble.

[0120] In the context of this application, and unless otherwise stated, by "function "Cationic-type chemical" refers to a chemical function B capable of capturing a proton to give a BH+ function. Depending on the conditions of the environment in which it is found, the cationic-type polymer therefore contains chemical functions in the form of B, or in the form of BH+, its conjugate acid.

[0121] As an example of cationic type chemical functions, we can cite the primary, secondary and tertiary amine functions, possibly present in the form of ammonium cations.

[0122] As an example of a cationic type polymer, one can cite any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers of which at least a part bears cationic type chemical functions, such as primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions.

[0123] Such monomers are, for example, aziridine, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0124] Examples of cationic polymers suitable for implementing the invention include amodimethicone, derived from a silicone polymer (polydimethylsiloxane, also called dimethicone), modified by primary and secondary amine functions.

[0125] We can also mention derivatives of amodimethicone, such as for example amodimethicone copolymers, aminopropyl dimethicone, and more generally linear or branched silicone polymers comprising amine functions.

[0126] Examples include bis-isobutyl PEG-14 / amodimethicone copolymer, Bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone, Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone and bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone.

[0127] We can also mention polysaccharide-type polymers comprising amine functions, such as chitosan or guar gum derivatives (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride).

[0128] We can also mention polypeptide-type polymers comprising amine functions, such as polylysine.

[0129] Polyethyleneimine type polymers comprising amine functions, such as linear or branched polyethyleneimine, can also be cited.

[0130] According to one embodiment, the drops, and in particular the bark of said drops, comprise a cationic polymer which is a silicone polymer modified by a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, such as amodimethicone.

[0131] According to one embodiment, the drops, and in particular the bark of said drops, comprise amodimethicone.

[0132] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer corresponds to the following formula:

[0134] in which:

[0135] - Ri, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent OH or CH3;

[0136] - R4 represents a -CH2- group or an -X-NH- group in which X is a radical divalent alkylene in C3 or C4;

[0137] - x is an integer between 10 and 5,000, preferably between 30 and 1,000, and better between 80 and 300;

[0138] - y is an integer between 1 and 1000, preferably between 2 and 1000, and better between 4 and 100, and better between 5 and 20; and

[0139] - z is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 0 and 1, and better is equal to 1.

[0140] In the above-mentioned formula, when R4 represents an -X-NH- group, X is connected to the silicon atom.

[0141] In the above-mentioned formula, RB R2 and R3 preferably represent CH3.

[0142] In the above-mentioned formula, R4 is preferably a -(CH2)3-NH- group.

[0143] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer corresponds to the following formula (1-1): NH,

[0145] in which:

[0146] - R4 is as defined above, and is preferably a -(CH2)3-NH- group;

[0147] - x is an integer between 80 and 300, preferably between 100 and 200;

[0148] - y is an integer between 5 and 20, preferably between 5 and 15; and

[0149] - z is an integer between 0 and 1, and preferably equal to 1.

[0150] The cationic polymer according to the invention can be one of the commercial products following: Nusil CAS 3131, Shin Etsu KF 8005 S or KF 8004, Momentive Silsoft AX or SF 1708 and Dow Corning DC 8500, DC 2-2078 or DC 2-8566.

[0151] The cationic polymer according to the invention may be an amodimethicone such as, for example, one of the following commercial products: Nusil CAS 3131, Shin Etsu KF 8005 S or KF 8004, Momentive SF 1708 and Dow Corning DC 2-8566.

[0152] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of amine functions contributed by the cationic polymer in the oil phase is between 14.4 pmol and 28.8 pmol, preferably between 18 pmol and 25.2 pmol, in particular between 20 pmol and 23 pmol, and better between 21 pmol and 22 pmol, per gram of oil phase.

[0153] According to the invention, a dispersion may comprise from 0.75% to 2.25%, preferably from 1% to 2%, in particular from 1.25% to 1.75%, and better from 1.35% to 1.60%, by weight of cationic polymer(s), in particular amodimethicone(s), relative to the total weight of the oil phase.

[0154] These contents are advantageous because they further improve the properties of a dispersion according to the invention, particularly in terms of sphericity and mechanical resistance of the drops (Gl).

[0155] In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, "the quantity of amine functions present in (or supplied by) the cationic polymer" means the quantity of amine functions carried by the cationic polymer.

[0156] For obvious reasons, the amine functions provided by the cationic polymer under consideration are those capable of reacting with the anionic polymer, in particular with the carboxylic groups (or functions) present on said anionic polymer. These are preferably the amine functions present on the branched chains of the ca- polymer tionic.

[0157] Thus, advantageously, at least 50%, preferably at least 60%, in particular at least 70%, better at least 80%, preferably at least 90%, and most particularly at least 99%, of the amine functions carried by the cationic polymer are able to react with the anionic polymer, in particular with the carboxylic groups carried by said anionic polymer.

[0158] In order to ensure effective bridging between the amine functions of the cationic polymer and the carboxyl function(s) of the anionic polymer, and as previously stated, a cationic polymer according to the invention comprises at least two amine functions. In this regard, and preferably, a cationic polymer according to the invention comprises at least two amine functions located on different branched chains of said cationic polymer. In other words, a cationic polymer according to the invention comprises at least two branched chains, identical or different, each branched chain comprising at least one amine function capable of reacting with the anionic polymer, in particular with at least one carboxyl group borne by said anionic polymer.

[0159] Method for determining the amount of amine functions present in the cationic polymer, in particular amodimethicone

[0160] The quantity of amine functions present in the cationic polymer can, in particular, be measured according to the following method: Parameters

[0161] Unless otherwise indicated, carry out the test described below under ambient conditions, i.e. at room temperature (25 °C) and at 30% - 70% relative humidity.

[0162] Dry tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane (TRIS) (CAS No. 77-86-1) at 110 °C for a minimum of 2 hours and cool over one week. Method

[0163] Preparation of the solvent solution (Solution A)

[0164] Measure 1000 ml of HPLC grade toluene into an amber coloured bottle.

[0165] Add 10 ml of distilled water.

[0166] Add 990 ml of isopropyl alcohol.

[0167] Close the bottle and gently mix the solution for about one minute.

[0168] We thus obtain solution A.

[0169] Verify that solution A is slightly acidic (pH ~ 5) by adding 3 drops of bromocresol purple indicator solution to a 100 ml aliquot of solution A.

[0170] Shake for about 30 seconds.

[0171] The solvent solution should appear yellow / green after mixing.

[0172] Preparation of a green indicator solution of Bromocresol (Le. solution B)

[0173] Measure 0.50 ± 0.01 grams of bromocresol green dye into a bottle.

[0174] Add 100 ml of ethanol.

[0175] Close the bottle and shake vigorously.

[0176] We thus obtain solution B. Titration of an HCl solution (i.e., solution C)

[0177] Measure an appropriate quantity in TRIS. Record the mass of TRIS Ml.

[0178] NOTE: with 0.1 N HCl, add about 0.2 grams of dried TRIS; with 1 N HCl, add about 1.8 grams of dried TRIS.

[0179] Add 100 ml of demineralized water.

[0180] Add 3 drops of solution B.

[0181] Shake for about 3 minutes.

[0182] NOTE: TRIS solution should appear blue after shaking.

[0183] Position a 25 ml burette.

[0184] Fill the burette with a standard HCl solution. Purge the top of the burette of air by allowing approximately 1.0 ml of HCl to flow through the top of the burette.

[0185] The reading of the standard HCl solution in the burette should be between 0.00 ~ 1.00 ml.

[0186] Record the volume of HCl in burette VI.

[0187] Start the titration by adding the standard HCl solution by adding 0.5 ml to the TRIS solution while stirring said TRIS solution with a magnetic stirrer.

[0188] Approach the endpoint of the titration cautiously by slowly adding small drops of standard HCl solution to the TRIS solution until the color of the TRIS solution changes from blue to yellow and remains yellow for at least 60 seconds.

[0189] NOTE: The color of the TRIS solution may temporarily change from blue to green near the point where the titrant is added. As a titration product, the color change of the TRIS solution will become more dispersed and last longer. The titration is complete when the color of the TRIS solution turns yellow upon addition of the last drop of reagent and the color change persists for at least 60 seconds.

[0190] Record the final volume of HCl in burette V2.

[0191] Repeat until three successful titlings are completed. Cationic polymer titration

[0192] Measure 0.05 to 5 grams of the cationic polymer in question, in particular amodimethicone, depending on the amine content in said cationic polymer.

[0193] Record the mass of the cationic polymer M2.

[0194] Add 50 ml of solution A.

[0195] NOTE: If the cationic polymer does not dissolve in solution A, first add isopropanol, then toluene and water in the appropriate ratio.

[0196] Add 3 drops of solution B.

[0197] We thus obtain solution D.

[0198] Mix solution D for a minimum of 5 minutes or until solution D appears homogeneous.

[0199] NOTE: Solution D should change from blue to green after shaking.

[0200] Position a 25 ml burette.

[0201] Fill the burette with a standard HCl solution. Purge the top of the burette of air by allowing approximately 1.0 ml of HCl to flow through the top of the burette.

[0202] The reading of the standard HCl solution in the burette should be between 0.00 ~ 1.00 ml.

[0203] Record the volume of the standard HCl solution in the burette V3.

[0204] Begin the titration by adding the standard HCl solution to solution D above. by adding 0.5 ml while stirring solution D with a magnetic stirrer.

[0205] Approach the endpoint of titration carefully by slowly adding small drops of standard HCl solution until the color of solution D changes from blue to yellow and remains yellow for at least 60 seconds.

[0206] NOTE: The color of solution D will temporarily change from blue to yellow or green near the point where the titrant is added. In some samples, the color may change from blue to purple to yellow. The titration is complete when the color of solution D turns yellow upon addition of the last drop of reagent and the color change persists for at least 60 seconds.

[0207] Record the final volume of standard HCl solution in the burette as V4. Calculations

[0208] Calculation of the normality of the standard hydrochloric acid solution:

[0209]

[0210] N = normality of HCl, in N

[0211] Ml = mass of the TRIS, in grams

[0212] VI = initial volume of standard HCl solution in the burette, in mL

[0213] V2 = final volume of standard HCl solution in the burette, in mL

[0214] Calculation of the amine group content (in millimoles of amine / gram of polymer) cationic)

[0215] Amine =

[0216] M2 = mass of the cationic polymer, in grams

[0217] V3 = initial volume of standard HCl solution in the burette, in mL

[0218] V4 = final volume of standard HCl solution in the burette, in mL

[0219] N = denotes the normality of the standard HCl solution in the burette, in N Formulas

[0220]

[0221] Calculation of the normality of the HCl (N) standard solution: ..... / ImoîeTR / S \ / leqTR / S \ / 1 HCK / 1 x - (g / am deTÆ / 5) x WS7 x 1000 s £1 /

[0222] Calculation of amine content (in millimoles / gram of cationic polymer):

[0223] / ead^HCA / 1 \ / 1 / IL MCf x \ L dMCi / k^ram / k 1 and? dD / O / VlGOOMlHCc / 1000 mmo / e Aminex X i ' — ) Amine

[0224] Method for determining the quantity of amine functions contributed by the cationic polymer, in particular amodimethicone, in the oil phase

[0225] Starting from a specific cationic polymer, a person skilled in the art is able to carry out the appropriate calculations to determine the required quantity of the cationic polymer in question to meet the requirements in terms of the quantity of amine functions provided by the cationic polymer in the oil phase as referred to in the present invention.

[0226] The following calculation method can be cited in this regard:

[0227] Q = AXT

[0228] where:

[0229] - Q represents the quantity of amine functions contributed by the cationic polymer in the fat phase (in pmol / g),

[0230] A represents the mass percentage of the cationic polymer considered in the oil phase, and

[0231] T represents the percentage of amine functions carried by said cationic polymer considered (in pmol / g of cationic polymer), obtained in particular by the method described above.

[0232] [Tables 1] Amodimethicone Amount of amine functions (in mmol per gram of amodimethicone) CAS-3131 from NUSIL (INCI: Amodi-methicone) 1.44 Fatty phase

[0233] According to the invention, a dispersion comprises a phase dispersed in the form of drops which comprises, in addition to at least one cationic polymer as described above, at least one oily phase, at least one pigment and at least one cationic polymer as described previously and optionally at least one lipophilic gelling agent different from the anionic and cationic polymers described above. Oils

[0234] The oily phase may comprise at least one oil, preferably in which the cationic polymer as described below is soluble.

[0235] The term "oil" means a liquid fat at room temperature.

[0236] As examples of oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, we can mention by example :

[0237] - vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as jojoba oil hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil;

[0238] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;

[0239] - synthetic esters and ethers, particularly of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas RiCOOR2 and RiOR2 in which Ri represents the remainder of a fatty acid in C8 to C2ç, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, in C3 to C30, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; Hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, and decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate (DUB PTB) or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorin 3631);

[0240] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil;

[0241] - silicone oils, such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatile or non-volatile linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, including cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, hanging from or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyl-diphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

[0242] - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or even octyldodecanol;

[0243] - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

[0244] - and their mixtures.

[0245] A person skilled in the art will know how to adjust the nature and / or content of oil(s), in particular to ensure satisfactory solubilization (or homogenization) of the pigment(s) and, when present, of the cationic polymer(s).

[0246] Thus, the oil phase advantageously comprises less than 40%, preferably less than 30%, in particular less than 20% and better less than 10%, by weight of vegetable hydrocarbon oil(s) relative to the total weight of the oil phase.

[0247] Advantageously, a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (or Hl oil) containing more than 90%, preferably more than 95%, of fatty acids with chain lengths greater than or equal to 18 carbon atoms, preferably greater than or equal to 20 carbon atoms.

[0248] Preferably, more than 90%, and preferably more than 95%, of the fatty acids in the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil have a chain length between C[8 and C36, preferably between C20 and C28, and better between C20 and C22.

[0249] By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mm of Hg (2.66 Pa) and preferably less than 10-3 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0250] Thus, examples of Hl oils include jojoba oil, linseed oil, and oil of Perilla, Inca Inchi oil, rosehip oil, rapeseed oil, hemp oil, sweet almond oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, Meadowfoam oil (INCI: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil) and their mixtures, preferably jojoba oil and / or Meadowfoam oil, and better still Meadowfoam oil.

[0251] The implementation of Hl oils, in particular Meadowfoam oil, in the oily phase of a dispersion according to the invention has advantageous effects in terms of reducing opacification of the continuous aqueous phase and / or adhesion of drops to the walls of the packaging and / or aggregation of drops with each other.

[0252] The oily phase advantageously comprises meadowfoam oil (e.g., 20% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase). Indeed, the presence of this oil, when coupled with Estogel M (via EMC30), increases the mechanical resistance of the particles (P), which is particularly useful in the case of a two-phase composition where the particles (P) are subjected to much greater stresses than in a conventional composition, i.e., where the viscosity of the continuous aqueous phase is adjusted to suspend said particles (P) stably.

[0253] Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention comprises, as oil(s), Caprylic / Capric triglyceride, hexyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0254] Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention, and in particular the oily phase, does not comprise any crystallizable oil having a melting point (MP) below 100°C.

[0255] A dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 99.25%, in particular from 1% to 90%, preferably from 5% to 80%, better from 10% to 70%, and especially from 20% to 60%, by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the oil phase. Pigments

[0256] The oil phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one pigment. The use of several pigments makes it possible to tint the color of the oil phase of the drops, and therefore of the dispersion, as desired.

[0257] The term "pigment" means a coloring chemical substance that is insoluble in the phase in which the pigment is present. "Insoluble" means that the solubility at 20°C of the pigment in the phase in which the pigment is present is less than 1 g / L, in particular less than 0.1 g / L, preferably less than 0.001 g / L.

[0258] Each pigment can independently be an organic pigment, an inorganic pigment, or a hybrid organic-inorganic pigment. These are typically inorganic pigments.

[0259] The colour conferred by a dispersion according to the invention can for example be measured by spectrocolorimetry and / or spectrophotocolorimetry.

[0260] Coverage refers to the ability of a composition to "mask the skin" / to "hide imperfections".

[0261] The coverage of a composition is measured at a finished thickness of 50 µm for liquid compositions at 25°C intended for application to the lips, in particular liquid lipsticks, liquid lip glosses, and liquid lip balms, and at a thickness of 150 µm for eyeshadows, liquid foundations, mascaras, and other liquid makeup products not intended for application to the lips. The composition is spread onto matte black and matte white contrast cards, for example, LENETA Form WP1 for the matte black card and Leneta IA for the matte white card. Application can be carried out with an automatic spreader. When the composition is inhomogeneous, such as a dispersion according to the invention, particularly when the droplets (Gl) are macroscopic, a mixing step of said dispersion, for example with Rayneri, prior to the application step (i.e., spreading onto cards), is preferably performed to make it homogeneous.The measurements are performed on the compositions thus spread out. Reflectance spectra are acquired using a MINOLTA 3700-d spectrocolorimeter (diffuse measurement geometry and observation D65 / 100, specular component excluded mode, small aperture (CREISS)) on the black and white backgrounds. The spectra are expressed in colorimetric coordinates in the CIELab76 space as defined by the International Commission on Illumination according to recommendation 15:2004. The contrast ratio, or coverage, is calculated by taking the arithmetic mean of Y on a black background, divided by the average value of Y on a white background, multiplied by 100.

[0262] Examples of pigments include titanium dioxide, zinc dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof. Preferred mineral pigments are iron oxides, in particular red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.

[0263] The pigment is preferably an iron oxide, in particular red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

[0264] Each pigment can be an untreated pigment or a treated pigment. For the purposes of this application, "treated pigment" means a pigment that has been treated with an additive that improves its dispersibility in an oily or aqueous composition, in particular one of the additives defined below. "Untreated pigment" means a pigment that has not been treated with such an additive.

[0265] In view of the foregoing, the oily phase of the drops of a dispersion according to the invention comprises a high content of pigment(s).

[0266] Nevertheless, the continuous aqueous phase, or even the internal aqueous phase in the case of a complex dispersion such as described below, may also include at least one pigment.

[0267] Preferably, when the phase comprising pigments is a fatty (or oily) phase, said phase further comprises hydrostearic acid or poly-hydroxystearic acid, as marketed by Phoenix Chemical under the name PELEMOL PHS-8, preferably in a content of between 0.5% and 10%, in particular between 1.5% and 6%, and better between 2.5% and 4%, by weight relative to the total weight of the phase considered.

[0268] The presence of such particular compound(s) is advantageous in that:

[0269] -it(s) allows(s) the viscosity of an oily phase comprising at least one pigment, for example a pigment / oil powder (60:40), a fortiori of a phase highly loaded with pigments, and therefore makes it / them more fluid and easier to process, particularly in fluidic devices such as those described below; and

[0270] - it / they allow the droplet size to be maintained. Indeed, the inventors have observed that the implementation of pigment(s) in the oil phase dispersed in a dispersion according to the invention generally leads to a decrease in the size of the drops compared to the same dispersion but devoid of said pigment(s).

[0271] Finally, maintaining the integrity of a dispersion according to the invention in the presence of this / these compound(s) is unexpected. Indeed, this / these compound(s) generally destabilize the coating comprising at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer.

[0272] According to a first alternative, the pigment used is an untreated and unground pigment (pigment used "as is").

[0273] According to a second alternative, the pigment used has undergone pretreatment to make it more easily dispersible during pigment formulation, i.e., more easily dispersible in the phase in question. This pretreatment consists of grinding the pigment and / or pretreating it with an additive that improves its dispersibility before formulating it as a series of colored particles.

[0274] The use of a ground pigment and / or a pigment pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility:

[0275] - contributes to ensuring that a liquid containing the ground and / or pretreated pigment has a low viscosity, - contributes to the preparation of a dispersion in which the dispersed oil phase has a very high pigment content, comprising more than 23.5%, generally more than 25%, in particular more than 30%, or even more than 40%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the weight of the dispersed oil phase, - contributes to reducing, or even preventing, the sedimentation of the pigment(s) in the phase(s) that contain it / them, and / or - contributes to reducing, or even preventing, the aggregation of pigments in the phase(s) which contain(s) it / them.

[0276] Generally, when several pigments are used, they all undergo the same treatment, i.e., they are all ground and / or pre-treated. However, it is possible that some may be ground but not treated, and others treated and ground or not ground.

[0277] According to a first embodiment according to the second alternative, at least one pigment is pretreated with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment.

[0278] The nature of the additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment depends on the hydrophilic or lipophilic character of the phase(s) which will include this treated pigment.

[0279] When a dispersion uses several pre-treated pigments, these can be pre-treated with identical or different additives.

[0280] An additive that improves the dispersibility of the pigment in an oil phase is chosen, for example, from hydrogenated lecithin, a silicone, a wax, an amino acid or one of its salts, and an amino acid ester or one of its salts, and mixtures thereof. Hydrogenated lecithin comprises phosphate mono- and diesters with fatty chains that promote dispersibility in the oil phase. The silicone additive may be obtained from a silicone precursor, such as an alkoxyalkylsilane like triethoxycaprylsilane, or such as a trialkylsiloxysilicate like trimethylsiloxysilicate, or be a silicone, such as dimethicone or one of its derivatives, for example bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone, or be obtained from a mixture of silicone and one of its precursors, for example a mixture of dimethicone and trimethylsiloxysilicate.The silicone additive can be a hybrid treatment, in particular a mixture of isopropyl titanium triisostearate, bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone, PEG-2 soyamine, and isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI). The wax can, for example, be rose floral wax. The preferred amino acid is cystine, and the preferred amino acid esters are sodium cocoyl glutamate, layroyl arginine, or lauroyl lysine.

[0281] An additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment within an aqueous phase is chosen, in particular, from an additive of the following formula (I):

[0282] Q Ï(M) o\-p4or) u),

[0283] in which:

[0284] - n represents 1 or 2, - M represents H or a cation, - m represents 1 when M is H and m represents the valence of the cation when M is a cation, - R represents: - a group G chosen from a saccharide or a group -[CH2-CHRrO]q-R2 or -[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O]q-R2 where: - q represents an integer from 1 to 1000, - for each CH2-CHRrO unit, Ri independently represents either H or a methyl group, - R2 represents H or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and, - a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 500 carbon atoms substituted by one or more G groups, phosphate (of formula OPO3(M)2 / m) and / or hydroxyl (OH).

[0285] The group -[CH2-CHRrO]q-R2 with Ri represents H, corresponding to polyethylene glycol (PEG). The group -[CH2-CHRrO]q-R2 with Ri represents a methyl group, corresponding to polypropylene glycol (PPG). The group -[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O]q-R' corresponds to polyglycerol.

[0286] Typically, q is an integer from 1 to 500, in particular from 1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 60.

[0287] Preferably, n represents 2 and the additive has the following formula (!'):

[0288] q II (M) O —P-OR O(M)

[0289] in which M, m and R are as defined above.

[0290] For the purposes of this application, a hydrocarbon chain comprises from 1 to 500 Carbon atoms, typically from 1 to 50, but preferably from 1 to 10, are common. Hydrocarbon chains can be linear, branched, or cyclic. Preferred hydrocarbon chains are alkyl groups (preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, especially from 1 to 5, but preferably from 1 to 3, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, and isopropyl groups), alkenyl groups (preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 6), aryl groups (preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms), arylalkyl groups (preferably from 7 to 10 carbon atoms), and alkylaryl groups (preferably from 7 to 10 carbon atoms). The vinyl group is the preferred alkenyl group. The phenyl group is the preferred aryl group.

[0291] A saccharide can be a mono- or polysaccharide. Preferred saccharides are mono- or disaccharides, especially monosaccharides such as glucose, galactose or fructose.

[0292] M may in particular be an inorganic cation, such as Ag3+, Al3+, Fe3+, Fe2+, Ag2+, Zn 2+, Sn2+, Ca2+, Ba2+, Ag+, Na+ or an organic cation, such as a diethanolammonium (DEA) (H3N+-(CH2)2-OH) or a quaternary ammonium.

[0293] The following additives of formula (II), (III) or (IV) are particularly suitable for implementing the invention:

[0294] -

[0295] HO4GH-GH,-O)—GH, OW * I * | 1^; HCMCH ,CH2-O)—C -O —P=Q HO! GH -CHX) 0(13 )

[0296] in which M, m and q are as defined above,

[0297] (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2 and R represents an isopropyl hydrocarbon chain in which each of the carbon atoms is substituted by a group G which represents -[CH2-CHRi-O]q-R2 where Ri and R2 represent H),

[0298] -

[0299] o Ab HO—CH„—CH-CH—O—P='DI * I OH ŒM)

[0300] in which M and m are as defined above,

[0301] (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a group G of formula -[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O]q-R2 where q represents 1 and R2 represents H),

[0302] -

[0303] O(M) HQ—(—CH-G H —O ) ( CH-CH -O -^^=0^ CHa - (IV)

[0304] in which M and m are as defined above and q' and q” independently represent an integer from 0 to 1000, generally from 0 to 500, in particular from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 60, such that the sum of q' and q” independently represents an integer from 1 to 1000,

[0305] (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a group G of formula -[CH2-CHRi-O]q-R2 where q represents the sum of q' and q” and, for the first q” units, Ri represents a methyl and for the last q' units, Ri represents H, and R2 represents H).

[0306] The following additives of formula (V) and (VI) are also suitable:

[0307] (M> Os PO OPO,p%^ ' ' J______Lopo^m 3 ' 2 pmspœ---f OPO^M)

[0308] (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a cyclohexyl hydrocarbon chain substituted at positions 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 by a phosphate group of formula OPO3H2),

[0309]

[0310] (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a methyl hydrocarbon chain linked to a glucose G group),

[0311] in which M and m are as defined above.

[0312] The following additives are particularly preferred:

[0313] - glycereth-26 phosphate, of the following formula (II'):

[0314] GH. OH ' " s IP । H0-(CH2CHr0)—C —0 -P=O CH OH " " 25 k " (HO

[0315] (which corresponds to an additive of formula (II) in which M represents H and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously available commercially, for example from Croda^,

[0316] - glycerophosphate, of the following formula (III'):

[0317] 0Na HO -CH.-CH -CH.-0 -P=O OH ONa {||n>

[0318] (which corresponds to an additive of formula (III) in which M represents Na and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously available commercially, for example from Dr. Paul Lohman^,

[0319] - diethanolammonium PEG-26 PPG-30 phosphate of the following formula (IV'):

[0320] HO -CH-CH^O CH—CH —O ùsA " I CH. .HAS,

[0321] (which corresponds to an additive of formula (IV) in which M represents a cation diethanolammonium and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously available commercially, for example from Innospec^,

[0322] - phytic acid of the following formula (V'):

[0323] HO / 'O CPO^H, .1_______I. OPO.H- ÆsrcyVl H.(W--T m

[0324] (which corresponds to an additive of formula (V) in which M represents H and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously available commercially, for example from Nutriscience^,

[0325] - glucose phosphate, of the following formula (VI'):

[0326] O W OH (W);

[0327] (which corresponds to an additive of formula (VI) in which M represents H and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously available commercially.

[0328] Advantageously, phytic acid is the additive that improves the dispersibility of the pigment within an aqueous composition.

[0329] A process for preparing a pigment pretreated with an additive as defined above is described for example in WO2012 / 120098.

[0330] In this first embodiment according to the second alternative using a pre-treated pigment, the pre-treated pigment may subsequently include a grinding step or be free of it. This grinding makes it possible to limit, or even eliminate, the aggregates of pre-treated pigments, which facilitates their subsequent incorporation into the phase(s) and / or helps to reduce the sedimentation of the pigment in the phase(s) containing it.

[0331] This grinding step can be carried out in the presence of a binder, or in the absence of a binder (dry grinding).

[0332] The binder is for example glycerin, propanediol, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, octyldodecanol, castor oil, a mineral oil, isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone and cyclomethicone, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0333] Preferably, when the pigment is treated with an additive improving its dispersibility within an oily phase, the binder is chosen from glycerin, octyldodecanol, castor oil, a mineral oil, isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone and cyclomethicone, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0334] Preferably, when the pigment is not pre-treated or when it is treated with an additive improving its dispersibility in an aqueous phase, the binder is chosen from propanediol, glycerin, a hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, and mixtures thereof.

[0335] The crusher is then typically chosen from among three-roller crushers, ball mills and plate mills.

[0336] When the grinding step is implemented in the absence of a binder, the mill can be a pin mill, a jet micronizer, an impact mill, a hammer mill, a knife mill, a ball mill, a vibrating mill or a cryogenic mill.

[0337] According to a second embodiment of the second alternative, at least one pigment is not pretreated with an additive to improve its dispersibility, and the process then includes a step of grinding the pigment. This grinding makes it possible to limit, or even eliminate, the aggregates of pretreated pigments, which facilitates their subsequent incorporation into the phase(s) and / or helps to reduce the sedimentation of the pigment in the phase(s) containing it.

[0338] The embodiments described above for grinding are of course applicable (type of grinder, absence or presence of binder).

[0339] Advantageously, a dispersion according to the invention comprises between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, in particular between 10% and 40%, especially better between 15% and 35%, and preferably between 20% and 25%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of the dispersed oil phase comprising it / them.

[0340] A dispersion according to the invention is advantageous in that its aforementioned advantageous properties remain even in the presence of high pigment contents in the dispersed oil phase. Thus, a dispersion according to the invention advantageously comprises a content greater than or equal to 25%, preferably between 24% and 60%, in particular between 25% and 60%, preferably between 30% and 55%, in particular between 35% and 50%, and better between 40% and 45%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of the dispersed oil phase comprising it / them.

[0341] Advantageously, when a phase other than the oily phase (i.e., drops (Gl)) further comprises at least one pigment, in particular the continuous aqueous phase, a dispersion according to the invention comprises between 0% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 55%, in particular between 10% and 50%, and better between 15% and 40%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of said phase.

[0342] Moreover, and against all expectations, the inventors observed a particularly advantageous operating range based on the weight ratio "Oil(s) / Pigment(s)" which preferably is between 1.2 and 2.1, preferably between 1.3 and 2, in particular between 1.4 and 1.9, better between 1.5 and 1.8, and preferably between 1.6 and 1.7.

[0343] With regard to oils, this weight ratio considers only "free" or "available" oils. By "free oil" or "available oil" is meant an oil not previously associated with another raw material, such as FEMC30 (INCI: Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), which is a premix of Estogel M in Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride oil in a ratio of 30 / 70.

[0344] Indeed, an oily phase with an oil / pigment weight ratio of less than 1.2 exhibits high viscosity, leading to the formation of deformed droplets, or even making it impossible to implement the microfluidic device, particularly when attempting to produce a dispersion rich in dispersed oily phase. Without wishing to be bound by any particular theory, the inventors believe that an oily phase with an oil / pigment weight ratio of less than 1.2 does not ensure sufficient oil availability to guarantee proper droplet formation.

[0345] Furthermore, a fatty phase with a weight ratio The oil / pigment concentration greater than 2.1 has a low viscosity, which leads to a slow recovery of the oil phase and therefore to the occurrence of droplet fragmentation. Furthermore, such an oil phase can lead to dispersions according to the invention that, upon application to the skin, have a long drying time and therefore may have insufficient adhesion to the skin. Lipophilic gelling agents

[0346] Advantageously, the oil phase of a dispersion according to the invention further comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent. Such a lipophilic gelling agent is different from the anionic and cationic polymers, oils, and pigments described above. This lipophilic gelling agent makes it possible, in particular, to adjust the viscosity and / or reduce, or even prevent, the sedimentation of the pigment(s) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0347] This lipophilic gelling agent also makes it possible to increase the mechanical resistance of the drops, as described in WO2017046305.

[0348] In the context of the invention, "gelling agent" means an agent that allows, at at ambient temperature at atmospheric pressure, to increase the viscosity of the phase(s) containing it compared to the same phase(s) without said gelling agent, and for example to achieve a final viscosity of the phase(s) greater than 2,000 mPa.s, preferably greater than 4,000 mPa.s, better greater than 10,000 mPa.s, and especially greater than 100,000 mPa.s.

[0349] Preferably, the viscosity of a phase in the presence of said gelling agent is between 2,000 and 100,000,000 mPa.s, preferably between 4,000 and 1,000,000 mPa.s, and better between 10,000 and 500,000 mPa.s, at 25°C.

[0350] The term “lipophilic gelling agent” means a liposoluble or lipodispersible compound capable of gelling the oily (or fatty) phase of a dispersion according to the invention.

[0351] According to a particular embodiment, the gelling agent is thermosensitive. The expression "thermosensitive gelling agent" designates an agent capable of increasing the viscosity of the fatty phase comprising it when devoid of said agent, this viscosity evolving reversibly as a function of temperature.

[0352] According to one embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from organic or mineral lipophilic, polymeric or molecular gelling agents; solid fats at ambient temperature and pressure, in particular chosen from waxes, pasty fats, butters; and mixtures thereof, and preferably is chosen from the group consisting of polymeric lipophilic gelling agents.

[0353] Lipophilic gelling agent(s)

[0354] A lipophilic gelling agent may be selected from organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular gelling agents; solid fats at ambient temperature and pressure, in particular waxes, pasty fats, butters; and mixtures thereof. Such lipophilic gelling agents are described in particular in WO2019002308.

[0355] As a mineral lipophilic gelling agent, one can cite clays possibly modified such as hectorites modified by an ammonium chloride in C22 C10, such as hectorite modified by di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38VO by the company ELEMENTIS. We can also mention hectorite modified with distea-ryldimethylammonium chloride, also known as quaternium-18 bentonite, such as the products marketed or manufactured under the names Bentone 34 by Rheox, Claytone XL, Claytone 34 and Claytone 40 marketed or manufactured by Southern Clay, modified clays known as benzalkonium and quaternium-18 bentonites and marketed or manufactured under the names Claytone HT, Claytone GR and Claytone PS by Southern Clay, clays modified with stearyldimethylbenzoy- Ammonium, known as steralkonium bentonites, such as the products marketed or manufactured under the names Claytone APA and Claytone AF by the Southern Clay Company, and Baragel 24 marketed or manufactured by the Rheox Company.

[0356] One can also mention fumed silica, possibly with a hydrophobic surface treatment, whose particle size is less than 1 pm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of silica by a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups present on the silica surface. In particular, silanol groups can be replaced by hydrophobic groups, resulting in hydrophobic silica.

[0357] Hydrophobic groups can be:

[0358] - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of Pyrogenized silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R812O by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-530O by the company CABOT; or

[0359] - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are in particular obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are designated "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R972Ô and Aerosil R974Ô by the company DEGUSSA, and CAB-O-SIL TS-610Ô and CAB-O-SIL TS-720Ô by the company CABOT.

[0360] Hydrophobic pyrogenated silica in particular has a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

[0361] Organic polymeric lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or totally cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes with a three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6O, KSG16O and KSG18O by SHIN-ETSU, Trefil E-505CO and Trefil E-506CO by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYCO, SR DMF10O, SR-DC556O, SR 5CYC gelO, SR DMF 10 gelO and SR DC 556 gelO by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204O and JK 1130 by GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name EthocelO by DOW CHEMICAL; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sugar, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by alkyl chains in C1 to C6, and in particular in C1 to C3 and their mixtures.Sequenced copolymers of the "dibloc", "tribloc" or "radial" type of polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene such as those marketed under the name Luvitol HSB® by BASF, . of the polystyrene / ethylene-propylene copolymer type, such as those marketed under the name Kraton® by SHELL CHEMICAL CO., or of the polystyrene / ethylene-butylene copolymer type, triblock and radial (star) copolymer blends in isododecane, such as those marketed by PENRECO under the name Versagel®, for example, the butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer blend and the ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer blend in isododecane (Versagel M 5960). Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the present invention, dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, may also be mentioned. Examples of esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s) include dextrin palmitates, dextrin myristates, dextrin palmitates / ethylhexanoates and mixtures thereof.Examples include dextrin and fatty acid esters marketed under the names Rheopearl® KL2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate), Rheopearl® TT2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate ethylhexanoate), and Rheopearl® MKL2 (INCI name: dextrin myristate) by Miyoshi Europe, as well as dextrin palmitate marketed by The Innovation Company. Among polymeric gelling agents, examples include THIXCIN® R from Elementis Specialties (INCI: Trihydroxystearin), OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer from Lubrizol (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79), and Estogel M from PolymerExpert (INCI: CASTOR OIL / IPDI COPOLYMER & CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE).Among the waxes and butters, we can mention in particular the C10-C18 triglycerides (INCI name: C10-18 Triglycerides) comprising at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia butter (Madhuca longifolia), mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia temifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao), and sunflower butter, butter under the INCI name Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, butter under the INCI name Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, and the butter under the INCI name Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, jojoba esters (mixture of wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil)(name. INCI: Jojoba esters) and shea butter ethyl esters (INCI name: Shea butter ethyl esters), and their mixtures. According to a particular embodiment, the oil phase does not include an elastomer gel comprising at least one dimethicone, in particular as marketed by NuSil Technology under the name CareSil™ CXG-1104 (INCI: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer).

[0362] Preferably, the lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from among dextrin palmitates, PolymerExpert's Estogel M (INCI: CASTOR OIL / IPDI COPOLYMER & CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE), Lubrizol's OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79), and mixtures thereof.

[0363] Advantageously, a lipophilic gelling agent is a heat-sensitive gelling agent, that is, one that reacts to heat, and in particular is a gelling agent that is solid at room temperature and liquid at a temperature above 40°C, preferably above 50°C. Advantageously, a lipophilic gelling agent is a thixotropic gelling agent or one capable of imparting thixotropic behavior to the phase comprising it. Such a thixotropic gelling agent is notably selected from among the pyrogenated silicas, possibly hydrophobically treated, described above.

[0364] According to the invention, a dispersion according to the invention can comprise from 0.5% to 70%, preferably from 1% to 60%, in particular from 1.5% to 50%, better from 2% to 40%, in particular from 5% to 30%, and preferably from 10% to 20%, by weight of lipophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the fat phase comprising it / them.

[0365] Of course, a person skilled in the art will ensure that the parameters of the manufacturing process are adjusted to guarantee its proper functioning, in particular to ensure the implementation of phases with suitable fluidity, which can be achieved, for example, by raising the temperature of said phases. These adjustments fall within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Additional component(s)

[0366] According to the invention, the aqueous continuous phase and / or the oily phase of a dispersion according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional compound other than the anionic and cationic polymers, oils, pigments and lipophilic gelling agents mentioned above.

[0367] Blurring effect filler / "soft-focus" fillers

[0368] The continuous aqueous phase and / or the dispersed oily phase, in particular the dispersed oily phase, of a dispersion according to the invention may further comprise at least one filler with a blurring effect.

[0369] A blurring filler is capable of modifying and / or masking wrinkles through its intrinsic physical properties. These fillers can, in particular, modify wrinkles through a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect.

[0370] Examples of blurring fillers include the following compounds:

[0371] - porous silica microparticles such as, for example, Silica Beads® SB 150 and SB 700 from Miyoshi with an average size of 5 pm and the SUNSPHERES® H series from Asahi Glass such as the H33, H51 with sizes of 3.5 and 5 pm respectively and the Sensibead Si 175 and Sensibead Si 320 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies with sizes of 7 pm and 5 pm respectively;

[0372] - hollow hemispherical particles of silicone resins such as NLK 500®, NLK 506® and NLK 510® from Takemoto Oil and Fat, notably described in EP 1 579 849;

[0373] - silicone resin powders such as, for example, SILICON Resin Tospearl® 145 A DE GE silicone medium size 4.5 pm;

[0374] - acrylic copolymer powders, in particular poly(meth)acrylate of methyl such as for example the average size 8 pm PMMA Jurimer MBI® particles from Nihon Junyoki, the hollow PMMA spheres sold under the name COVABEAD® LH 85 by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies and the expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel®;

[0375] - wax powders such as Paraffin wax microloase® 114S particles from Mi- medium-sized cropowders of 7 pm;

[0376] - polyethylene powders, in particular comprising at least one copolymer ethylene / acrylic acid such as for example the Sumimoto FLOBEADS® EA 209 E medium size of 10 pm;

[0377] - crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with resin silicone in particular of silsesquioxane under the name KSP 100®, KSP 101®, KSP 102®, KSP 103®, KSP 104® and KSP 105® by the company Shin Etsu;

[0378] - talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders such as for example the Coverleaf AR 80® from the company Catalyst & Chemical;

[0379] - talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, crosslinked starch powders octeanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydroxycarbonate carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and glass or ceramic microcapsules;

[0380] - synthetic or natural, mineral or hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers organic materials such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, cellulose extracted from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), collagen insoluble, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, absorbable synthetic fibers, and their mixtures described in patent application EP 1 151 742;

[0381] - spherical elastomeric crosslinked silicones such as Trefil E-505C® or E-506 C® from Dow Corning;

[0382] - abrasive charges which, through mechanical effect, smooth the microrelief cutaneous, such as abrasive silica like for example Abrasive SP® from Semanez or nut or shell powders (apricot, walnut for example from Cosmétochem); and

[0383] - their mixtures

[0384] The fillers having an effect on the signs of aging are in particular selected from porous microparticles of silica, hollow hemispherical particles of silicones, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, polyethylene powders, crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomeric powders coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydroxycarbonate carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and glass or ceramic microcapsules, silk, cotton fibers, and mixtures thereof.

[0385] Coloring agent

[0386] The continuous phase and / or the dispersed phase, in particular the oily phase, may further comprise at least one colouring agent different from the pigment(s) and filler(s) mentioned above.

[0387] A colouring agent may in particular be chosen from among water-soluble or non-water-soluble, fat-soluble or non-water-soluble, organic or inorganic colouring agents, optical effect materials, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof.

[0388] In particular, a coloring agent may be a colorant and / or a pearlescent pigment, for example, Sensient Cosmetic Technologies' Covapearl Star Gold 2375 or Sensient Cosmetic Technologies' Covapearl Antique Silver 239. Preferably, a colorant or pearlescent pigment of a different color than that of the pigment used should be chosen. "Colorant" means a coloring chemical substance soluble in the colored particle (or the phase of the colored particle in which the colorant is present). "Soluble" means that the solubility at 20°C of the colorant in the colored particle is greater than 2 g / L, in particular greater than 5 g / L, and preferably greater than 10 g / L.

[0389] Preferably, when the dispersion according to the invention is multiphasic, the phase comprising the pigment(s) is different from that comprising the mother-of-pearl(s) and / or the colorant(s). This results in a heightened, even unexpected, visual effect for the consumer who, according to a particular embodiment, sees a product emerge from the container product of a color (that of the pigment(s) of the dispersed oily phase) different from that expected (that of the mother-of-pearl(s) and / or colorant(s)).

[0390] Also, the continuous phase and / or the dispersed phase, in particular the oily phase, of a dispersion according to the invention may further comprise powders; flakes; reflective particles (i.e. particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer or layers which constitute it and their physical and chemical nature, and surface condition, enable them to reflect incident light.This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create, on the surface of the dispersion or composition according to the invention, when the latter is applied to the makeup base, highlights visible to the naked eye (i.e., brighter points that contrast with their surroundings, appearing to shine); particulate agents insoluble in the oil phase; emulsifying and / or non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, particularly those described in EP2353577; preservatives; humectants; stabilizers; chelating agents; film-forming polymers (i.e.polymer capable of forming, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a substrate, particularly on keratinous materials and especially skin); auxiliary film-forming agents such as those mentioned above; emollients; modifying agents selected from texturizing agents, viscosity agents (for example, aqueous phase gelling / texturizing agents other than the aforementioned base), pH agents, osmotic strength agents and / or refractive index modifiers, etc., or any common cosmetic additive; and mixtures thereof.

[0391] According to one embodiment, the particulate agents insoluble in the oily phase of the drops are chosen from the group consisting of ceramics, polymers, in particular acrylic polymers, and mixtures thereof.

[0392] Hydrophilic texturizing agent

[0393] In the remainder of this description, a hydrophilic texturizing agent may be referred to interchangeably as a "hydrophilic gelling agent".

[0394] Depending on the fluidity of the dispersion that one wishes to obtain, one or more hydrophilic texturizing agent(s) can be incorporated into the dispersion according to the invention, in particular the continuous aqueous phase.

[0395] Examples of hydrophilic texturizing agents, i.e., soluble or dispersible in water, and therefore able to be present in the aqueous phase of a dispersion according to the invention, include:

[0396] - natural texturizing agents, in particular selected from seaweed extracts, plant exudates, seed extracts, microorganism exudates, such as alcasealan (INCI: Alcaligenes Polysaccharides), and other natural agents, in particular hyaluronic acid, - semi-synthetic texturizing agents, particularly those chosen from derivatives cellulose and modified starches, - synthetic texturizing agents, in particular selected from homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or one of their esters, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or one of their esters, copolymers of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid), associative polymers, - other texturizing agents, in particular selected from polyethylene glycols (marketed under the name Carbowax), clays, silicas such as those marketed under the names Aérosil® 90 / 130 / 150 / 200 / 300 / 380), glycerin, and - their mixtures.

[0397] For the purposes of this invention, "associative polymer" means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion; associative polymers according to this invention may be anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric; these include, in particular, those described in FR 2 999 921.

[0398] These hydrophilic texturizing agents are described in more detail in FR3041251.

[0399] These hydrophilic texturizing agents can further enhance kinetic stability of a dispersion according to the invention, in particular when the continuous aqueous phase is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0400] The continuous phase and / or the dispersed phase, in particular the oily phase, of a dispersion according to the invention may further comprise at least one active ingredient, in particular biological or cosmetic, preferably chosen from among moisturizing agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidant agents, active ingredients stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecular molecules, dermo-contracting agents, anti-perspirant agents, soothing agents, anti-aging agents, perfumer agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0401] Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention further comprises UV filters, in particular as described in FR3041251.

[0402] Naturally, a person skilled in the art will ensure that any additional compound(s) and / or active ingredient(s) mentioned above and / or their respective quantities are chosen in such a way that the advantageous properties of a dispersion according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. In particular, the nature and / or quantity of the additional compound(s) and / or active ingredient(s) depend on the aqueous or oily nature of the phase in question and / or the process used (in particular, whether it is a "non-microfluidic" or "microfluidic" process). These adjustments fall within the expertise of a person skilled in the art. Preparation process

[0403] The dispersions according to the invention can be prepared by different processes.

[0404] Thus, the dispersions according to the invention have the advantage of being able to be prepared according to a simple "non-microfluidic" process, namely by simple emulsification.

[0405] As in a conventional emulsion, an aqueous solution and an oily solution are prepared separately. It is the addition, under agitation, of the oily phase to the aqueous phase that creates the direct emulsion and thus the dispersion according to the invention.

[0406] The viscosity of the aqueous phase can be controlled, in particular, by adjusting the amount of anionic polymer (especially carbomer) and the pH of the solution. Generally, the pH of the aqueous phase is less than 4.5, which may necessitate the addition of a third sodium hydroxide (BF) solution at the end to achieve a pH between 5.5 and 6.5.

[0407] The viscosity of the aqueous phase and the shear force applied to the mixture are the two main parameters that influence the size (and therefore the macroscopic character) and the monodispersity of the droplets of the dispersion according to the invention.

[0408] A person skilled in the art will be able to adjust the non-microfluidic process to satisfy the mean diameter criterion of the dispersion droplets according to the invention.

[0409] The different fluids, in particular their flow rates, can be implemented in a microfluidic process according to the invention in a hydrodynamic mode known as "dripping" or "jetting" (formation of a liquid jet at the outlet of the microfluidic device, then fragmentation of the jet in the ambient air under the effect of gravity).

[0410] The dispersions according to the invention can also be prepared by a microfluidic process. A microfluidic process suitable for manufacturing dispersions according to the invention is described in particular in WO2012 / 120043, WO2015 / 055748 or WO2019145424.

[0411] According to a preferred embodiment, the manufacturing process is based on a microfluidic process as described in WO2019145424, namely, in which droplet formation is carried out by means of a nozzle adapted to convey a fluid jet consisting of a second fluid concentrically surrounding a first fluid and a mechanical fragmentation device for said fluid jet disposed near the nozzle outlet. According to this embodiment, the droplets obtained by a microfluidic process exhibit a uniform size distribution with a high production yield.

[0412] Preferably, the dispersions of the invention consist of a population of monodisperse G1 droplets, in particular such that they have an average diameter of 150 pm to 3,000 pm and a coefficient of variation Cv of less than 10%, or even less than 3%.

[0413] In the context of this description, "monodispersed droplets" means the The fact that the population of droplets G1 of the dispersion according to the invention has a uniform size distribution. Monodisperse droplets exhibit good monodispersity. Conversely, droplets exhibiting poor monodispersity are said to be "polydisperse".

[0414] According to one method, the average diameter D of the drops is, for example, measured by analyzing a photograph of a batch consisting of N drops, using image processing software (Image J). Typically, according to this method, the diameter is measured in pixels, then reported in pm, as a function of the size of the container holding the drops of the dispersion.

[0415] Preferably, the value of N is chosen to be greater than or equal to 30, so that this analysis statistically significantly reflects the droplet diameter distribution of said emulsion. Advantageously, N is greater than or equal to 100, particularly in the case where the dispersion is polydisperse.

[0416] The diameter Di of each drop is measured, then the average diameter P is obtained by calculating the arithmetic mean of these values:

[0417]

[0418] From these D„ values, the standard deviation θ of the droplet diameters of the dispersion can also be obtained:

[0419] v (d - dr .V

[0420] The standard deviation o of a dispersion reflects the distribution of the diameters D, of the drops of the dispersion around the mean diameter î).

[0421] Knowing the mean diameter Det and the standard deviation θ of a dispersion, it can be determined that 95.4% of the droplet population is found within the interval of diameters r— — - 2a; D + 2 and that 68.2% of the population is found in the interval

[0422] To characterize the monodispersity of the dispersion according to this method of the invention, the coefficient of variation can be calculated:

[0423]

[0424] This parameter reflects the distribution of droplet diameters as a function of their average diameter.

[0425] The coefficient of variation Cv of the diameters of the drops G1 according to this mode of the invention is less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, or even less than 3%.

[0426] Alternatively, monodispersity can be demonstrated by placing a dispersion sample in a flask with a constant circular cross-section. Gentle agitation by rotating the flask a quarter turn for half a second around the axis of symmetry passing through the flask, followed by a half-second rest, is carried out before repeating the operation in the opposite direction, and this four times in succession.

[0427] The droplets of the dispersed phase organize themselves into a crystalline form when they are monodisperse. Thus, they exhibit a stacking pattern that repeats in three dimensions. It is then possible to observe a regular stacking, indicating good monodispersity, or an irregular stacking, reflecting the polydispersity of the dispersion.

[0428] To obtain monodisperse droplets, the microfluidic technique can also be implemented (Utada et al. MRS Bulletin 32, 702-708 (2007); Cramer et al. Chem. Eng. Sci. 59, 15, 3045-3058 (2004)), and more particularly co-flow (fluids go in the same direction) or flow-focusing (fluids go in different directions, and typically in opposite directions) type microfluidic devices.

[0429] The presence, in the oil phase, of gelling agent(s) as described above, particularly heat-sensitive ones, may necessitate adjustments to the process for preparing a dispersion according to the invention. In particular, the process for preparing a dispersion according to the invention may include a heating step (between 40°C and 150°C, in particular between 50°C and 90°C) of at least the oil phase and optionally of the aqueous phase before mixing / contacting said oil phase with the aqueous phase and, where appropriate and in the case of a "non-microfluidic" process as mentioned above, maintaining this heating during agitation until the desired dispersion is obtained.

[0430] According to one embodiment, the process for preparing the dispersions of the invention comprises a droplet formation step including:

[0431] - optionally, the heating of an oily fluid FI and / or an aqueous fluid FE, to a temperature ranging from 40°C to 150°C;

[0432] - the contacting of an aqueous fluid FE and an oily fluid FI as defined below; and

[0433] - the formation of oily phase droplets, consisting of the oily fluid FI, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, consisting of fluid FE, said droplets comprising a bark isolating the core of the oily phase droplets from the dispersion.

[0434] According to one embodiment, the FI fluid is initially prepared by mixing with less one oil and at least one pigment and at least one cationic polymer as defined above, in particular amodimethicone, and optionally at least one lipophilic gelling agent and / or at least one additional compound such as above mentioned, it being understood that the quantity of amine functions supplied by the cationic polymer, in the oil phase, is between 10.8 pmol and 32.4 pmol per gram of oil phase.

[0435] According to one embodiment, the FE fluid comprises at least water and at least one anionic polymer as defined above, in particular a carbomer, and optionally at least one hydrophilic texturizing agent, a base, at least one additional compound, preservatives and / or other water-soluble products such as glycerin as mentioned above.

[0436] According to one embodiment, the aqueous continuous phase of the dispersion formed comprises, or is represented by, the aqueous phase of the FE fluid. The anionic polymer present in said FE fluid serves in particular to form the shell of the droplets. Said anionic polymer also contributes to increasing the viscosity of the FE fluid, and therefore of the aqueous continuous phase.

[0437] According to one embodiment, a process according to the invention, in particular the droplet formation step, may further include a step of injecting a viscosity-enhancing solution into the continuous aqueous phase of the FE fluid. Preferably, the viscosity-enhancing solution is aqueous. This viscosity-enhancing solution is typically injected into the external aqueous FE fluid after the dispersion according to the invention has formed, and therefore after the droplets have formed.

[0438] According to one embodiment, the viscosity-increasing solution comprises a base, in particular an alkali hydroxide, such as sodium hydroxide.

[0439] According to one embodiment, the temperature of the aforementioned heating stage is from 50°C to 80°C, preferably from 50°C to 70°C, and more preferably from 55 to 65°C.

[0440] Depending on the pigment(s) used, a process for preparing a dispersion according to the invention may include the steps of:

[0441] a) provide at least one pigment, possibly pre-treated with an additive improving the pigment's dispersibility, then

[0442] b) optionally grind said at least one pigment, said grinding preferably taking place when the at least one pigment is not pre-treated,

[0443] c) disperse at least one pigment in at least one oily fluid FI,

[0444] e) optionally, heat said oily fluid FI and optionally the aqueous fluid FE, to a temperature between 40°C and 150°C, preferably from 50°C to 90°C;

[0445] f) bring the aqueous fluid FE and the oily fluid FI into contact; and

[0446] g) form droplets of oily phase, consisting of the oily fluid FI, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase consisting of aqueous fluid FE, said droplets optionally comprising a shell isolating the core of the oily phase droplets from the dispersion,

[0447] in which the oily fluid FI and the aqueous fluid FE are as described above. Uses

[0448] Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention is directly usable, following the aforementioned preparation processes, as a composition, particularly a cosmetic one. The dispersion according to the invention, when prepared using a microfluidic process as described above, is also usable as a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, after separation of the droplets and their redispersion in a suitable second phase.

[0449] The invention also relates to the use of at least one dispersion according to the invention for introduction into a cosmetic composition.

[0450] The dispersions according to the invention can in particular be used in the cosmetic field.

[0451] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup composition comprising at least one dispersion as defined above.

[0452] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

[0453] The invention therefore also relates to a composition comprising at least one dispersion as defined above in association with an acceptable physiological medium.

[0454] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratinous materials, in particular the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes or eyebrows, and preferably the skin.

[0455] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0456] The presence of a physiologically acceptable medium can contribute to improving the preservation and / or maintaining the integrity over time of the drops of a dispersion according to the invention.

[0457] According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium is in the form of an aqueous gel, the viscosity of which is adapted, in particular to ensure the suspension of drops according to the invention.

[0458] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are used for makeup and / or the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin.

[0459] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be skincare, sun protection, cleansing (makeup removal), hygiene or makeup products.

[0460] These compositions are therefore intended to be applied in particular to the skin, lips or hair.

[0461] Thus, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a dispersion or composition according to the invention, as a makeup, hygiene, cleaning and / or care product for keratinous materials, in particular skin.

[0462] According to one embodiment, the dispersions or compositions of the invention are in the form of a foundation, a makeup remover, a face and / or body and / or hair care product, an anti-aging treatment, a sunscreen, an oily skin care product, a whitening treatment, a moisturizing treatment, a BB cream, tinted cream or foundation, a face and / or body cleanser, a shower gel or a shampoo, preferably a foundation.

[0463] A dispersion or composition according to the invention may in particular be a sun composition, a skincare cream, a serum or a deodorant.

[0464] The dispersions or compositions according to the invention can be in various forms, including cream, balm, lotion, serum, gel, gel-cream or mist.

[0465] In particular, a dispersion or composition according to the invention is a care and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular skin, and is notably a makeup composition.

[0466] More particularly, a dispersion or composition according to the invention may, for example, be mascara, a complexion product such as foundation, eyeliner, eyeshadow or blush, a lip product such as lipstick or lip gloss, soap (possibly liquid), shampoo, conditioner, nail polish, preferably eyeshadow, complexion products, or lip products. The dispersion or composition of the invention may be in the form of a monophasic or biphasic lotion, emulsion, gel, stick, or cream.

[0467] A dispersion or composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of a foundation to be applied to the face or neck, an under-eye concealer, a color corrector, a tinted cream or a face makeup base or a body makeup composition.

[0468] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment, in particular makeup and / or care, preferably makeup, of a keratinous material, in particular of the skin, lips or hair, comprising at least one step of application to said keratinous material of at least one dispersion or composition according to the invention.

[0469] In particular, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method, in particular makeup, for the skin, comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one dispersion or composition according to the invention.

[0470] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising one" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0471] The expressions "between ... and ...", "from ... to ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0472] The quantities of ingredients shown in the examples are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise stated.

[0473] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope. EXAMPLES

[0474] Unless otherwise stated, the compositions described below were obtained using a microfluidic process as described in WO2019145424.

[0475] Example 1: Comparative macroscopic pigmented dispersions

[0476] The compositions of the phases (fluids) are as follows:

[0477] [Tables2] Nom Nom INCI % w / w Phases PHASE GEL AQUEUX (=OF) 100,00 A Eau osmosée / Aqua Qsp* Al MICROCARE PE Thor Phenoxyethanol, aqua 0,87 Al MICROCARE EMOLLIENT PTG Thor Pentylene glycol, aqua 2,17 Al CARBOPOL ETD2050 Lubrizol Carbomer 0,20 A3 ALCASEALAN Hakuto Alcaligenes polysaccharides 0,02 A2 GLYCERINE CODEX Interchimie Glycerin, aqua 3,26 A4 GLUCAM E20 HUMECTANT Lubrizol Methyl gluceth-20 3,26 A4 UNITAMURO N H-22 Induchem Butylène glycol,tamarindus inca seed gum, phenoxyethanol 5,43 A5 EDETA BD BASF Disodium edta 0,03 Al SODIUM HYDROXIDE PELLETS PRS CODEX Panréac Sodium hydroxide 0,03 A6 PHASE HUILEUSE (=IF) 100,00 B LABRAFAC CC Gatefosse Caprylic / capric triglycéride Qsp* B1 / B2 KAKHL Kokyu alcohol kogyo co Hexyl laurate 28,90 B2 EMC30 Polymerexpe rt Caprylic / capric triglycéride, Castor oil / 6,72 B2 IPDI copolymer, aqua ASL-1 TIO2 CR-50 Daito Kasei CI77891, Aluminum hydroxide, Sodium Lauroyl glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride 30.82 B3 ASL-1 YELLOW LL- 100P Daito Kasei CI 77492, Sodium Lauroyl glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride 4.09 B3 ASL-1 RED R-516P Daito Kasei CI 77491, Sodium Lauroyl glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride 1.02 B3 ASL-1 BLACK BL-100P Daito Kasei CI 77499, Sodium Lauroyl glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium choride 0.65 B3 Parfum - Fragrance 0.20 B4 CAS-3131 PILOT Nusil Amodimethicone X (see table 1) B1

[0478] * Qsp: Quantity sufficient for.

[0479] [Tables3] Table 1 CAS-3131 IA (comp.) IB (Inv.) IC (Inv.) 1D (Inv.) 1E (Inv.) 1F (Inv.) IG (Inv.) 1H (Inv.) H (comp.) % w / w IF 0.5 0.75 1 1.25 1.5 1.75 2 2.25 2.5 Amount of amine functions contributed per cationic polymer in the oil phase (in pmol / g) 7.2 10.8 14.4 18 21.6 25.2 28.8 32.4 36 Preparation protocol:

[0480] For the OF:

[0481] Al: Phenoxyethanol, Pentylene glycol and EDTA are incorporated into the water. The mixture is stirred for 5 minutes.

[0482] A2: Alcasealan is added under rotor stator agitation (4500 rpm) for 15 min.

[0483] A3: The carbomer is then dispersed in the previous mixture under agitation for 30 minutes using a deflocculating blade.

[0484] A4: Glycerin and Glucam E20 are mixed and then this mixture is added under sustained stirring for 10 min.

[0485] A5: Then Unitamuron H-22 is added to the mixture under deflocculating agitation for 20 min.

[0486] A6: The sodium hydroxide is then added and the solution is mixed for 10 minutes.

[0487] For T IF:

[0488] B1: Amodimethicone is added to a portion of KAK HL and then mixed using a magnetic stirrer for 5 min (=mixture Bl).

[0489] B2: Prepare the grinding of pigments in a part of the Labrafac CC (=mixture B2).

[0490] B3: In parallel, mix FEMC30 with the rest of the Labrafac CC - Heat to 85°C to disperse it (=mixture B3).

[0491] B4: Add mixture B2 to mixture B3 at 80°C while stirring until homogenized (=mixture B4), then cool mixture B4 to 50°C while stirring.

[0492] B5: In parallel, mix the CAS-3131 with the remainder of the KAK HL at 50°C (=mixture B5).

[0493] B6: Add mixture B5 to mixture B4 while stirring until homogenized, add the perfume, then let return to TA (=mixture B6).

[0494] [Tables4] Microfluidic process parameters % w / w OF 72.90% IF 25.00% BF** 2.10%

[0495] ** Optionally, a solution for increasing the viscosity (BF) of the continuous phase so as to improve the suspension of the dispersed phase droplets in the continuous phase, in particular as described in WO2015055748. This BF is in particular a sodium hydroxide (NaOH) solution.

[0496] The entire process and phases implemented are at ambient temperature.

[0497] A macroscopic dispersion is obtained with a high droplet content of pigmented oil phase (i.e., 25%) and where the droplets having a diameter greater than or equal to 150 µm represent a volume greater than or equal to 60%, or even greater than or equal to 70%, of the total volume of the dispersed phase, and at least 60% of the droplets have an average diameter greater than or equal to 150 µm, or even greater than or equal to 250 µm. Results:

[0498] Regarding the IA dispersion, it was observed that the oil phase droplets had low sphericity and mechanical resistance. Reducing the oil phase flow rate in the microfluidic process led to an improvement in the sphericity and mechanical resistance of the droplets; truly satisfactory results were observed when the oil phase content of the IA dispersion was less than or equal to 9% relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

[0499] Regarding dispersion II, it is observed that the oily phase has a high viscosity, which is detrimental to the proper functioning of the microfluidic process. It is therefore difficult, if not impossible, to produce dispersion II using the microfluidic device considered.

[0500] Regarding the IB-1H dispersions according to the invention, they all exhibit a novel visual appearance, namely macroscopic pigmented droplets dispersed in a transparent suspended aqueous phase, the droplets possessing particularly satisfactory properties in terms of sphericity and mechanical resistance. Even more satisfactory results are observed with the 1D-1F dispersions, and especially with dispersion 1E.

[0501] Moreover, upon application, the makeup result is progressive (or evolving); a light skin tint is observed initially, which gradually intensifies. The final tint appears approximately 45 seconds after application to the skin.

[0502] In addition to a particularly satisfactory makeup result, the IB - 1H dispersions provide satisfactory sensory properties upon application to the skin, particularly in terms of freshness and hydration.

[0503] Example 2: Macroscopic pigmented dispersions according to the optimized invention

[0504] Unless otherwise specified, the compositions, preparation protocols, process and microfluidic parameters are identical to those described in Example 1.

[0505] The composition of the fatty phases considered in example 2 is as follows:

[0506] [Tables5] Name Name INCI % w / w Phases OILY PHASE (=IF) 100.00 LABRAFAC CC Gatefosse Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride CR-50 Daito Kasei CI77891, Aluminum hydroxide, Sodium Lauroyl glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride 30.82 ASL-1 YELLOW LL- 100P Daito Kasei CI 77492, Sodium Lauroyl glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride 4.09 ASL-1 RED R-516P Daito Kasei CI 77491, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride 1.02 ASL-1 BLACK BL-100P Daito Kasei CI 77499, Sodium Lauroyl glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium choride 0.65 Parfum - Fragrance 0.20 CAS-3131 PILOT Nusil Amodimethicone 1.5

[0507] * Qsp: Quantity sufficient for.

[0508] [Tableauxô] Table 2 Dispersion 2A 2B 2C 2D 2E 2F 2G 2H 21 2J 2K 2L 2M Pigments - % w / w IF 36.58 Free oils -% w / w IF 36.6 40.2 43.9 47.5 51.2 54.9 58.5 62.2 65.8 69.5 73.1 76.8 80.4 7 “Oils / pigments” ratio 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5 1.6 1.7 1.8 1.9 2.0 2.1 2.2

[0509] Next, for each dispersion 2A to 2M, the sphericity of the drops and the fragmentation of the drops are observed. Rating criteria:

[0510] [Tables?] RATING CRITERIA 0 1 2 3 Droplet Sphericity Good sphericity Slightly elongated drops Medium elongated drops Highly elongated drops Droplet Fragmentation No fragmentation Slight fragmentation Medium fragmentation High fragmentation Results :

[0511] [Tables8] Table 2 Dispersion 2A 2B 2C 2D 2E 2F 2G 2H 21 2J 2K 2L 2M Droplet Sphericity 3 3 2 2 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 Droplet Fragmentation 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 2 2 3

[0512] In view of the above results, it is observed that:

[0513] - an oily phase with a weight ratio of "oil(s) / pigment(s)" less than 1.2 exhibits excessively high viscosity, leading to the formation of severely deformed droplets, or even making it impossible to implement the microfluidic device; and

[0514] - a fatty phase with a weight ratio "oil(s) / pigment(s)" greater than 2.1 is too fluid, which leads to the appearance of droplet fragmentation phenomena.

[0515] A sensory test also showed that an oily phase with a weight ratio of "oil(s) / pigment(s)" greater than 2.1 leads to dispersions according to the invention which, when applied to the skin, have long drying times, and therefore an adhesion capacity on the skin which may be insufficient.

[0516] The dispersions according to the invention presenting the best results in terms of (i) sphericity of the drops, (ii) fragmentation of the drops and (iii) ability to adhere to the skin are those for which the oily phases have a weight ratio of "oil(s) / pigment(s)" between 1.2 and 2.1 (i.e. dispersions 2C - 2L), preferably between 1.4 and 1.9 (i.e. dispersions 2E - 2J), and particularly between 1.6 and 1.7 (i.e. dispersions 2G and 2H).

Claims

Demands

1. Dispersion comprising an oil phase in the form of drops dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, the dispersed phase and the continuous phase being immiscible with each other at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, wherein the drops comprise at least a bark and pigments, said bark being formed of at least one anionic polymer comprising at least one carboxylic acid function and at least one cationic polymer comprising at least two amine functions, characterized in that the amount of amine functions contributed by the cationic polymer, in the oil phase, is between 10.8 pmol and 32.4 pmol per gram of oil phase.

2. Dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the amount of amine functions contributed by the cationic polymer in the oil phase is between 14.4 pmol and 28.8 pmol, preferably between 18 pmol and 25.2 pmol, in particular between 20 pmol and 23 pmol, and better between 21 pmol and 22 pmol, per gram of oil phase.

3. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil phase comprises between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, in particular between 10% and 40%, better between 15% and 35%, and preferably between 20% and 25%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of the oil phase.

4. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the droplets having a diameter greater than or equal to 150 pm represent a volume greater than or equal to 60% of the total volume of the dispersed phase and / or at least 60% of the droplets have an average diameter greater than or equal to 150 pm.

5. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising between 1% and 99.25%, in particular between 1% and 90%, preferably between 5% and 80%, in particular between 10% and 70%, and especially between 20% and 60%, by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the fat phase.

6. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio "oil(s) / pigment(s)" is between 1.2 and 2.1, preferably between 1.3 and 2, in particular between 1.4 and 1.9, better between 1.5 and 1.8, and preferably between 1.6 and 1.

7.

7. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the drops comprise a liquid core or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic, said core being monophasic or comprising an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase and at least one, preferably a single, inner drop of an inner phase disposed in the intermediate drop, the intermediate phase and the inner phase being immiscible with each other at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, the pigment(s) being present in the intermediate phase and / or the inner phase.

8.

9.

10. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fat phase further comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably selected from organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents; solid fats at ambient temperature and pressure; and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of polymeric lipophilic gelling agents. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.5% to 70%, preferably from 1% to 60%, in particular from 1.5% to 50%, better from 2% to 40%, in particular from 5% to 30%, and preferably from 10% to 20%, by weight of lipophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the fat phase comprising them. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in in which the cationic polymer is a silicone polymer modified by a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, such as amodimethicone, and in particular corresponds to the following formula: in which: - Rb R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent OH or CH3; - R4 represents a -CH2- group or an -X-NH- group in which X is a divalent alkylene radical at C3 or C4; - x is an integer between 10 and 5000; - y is an integer between 1 and 1000; and - z is an integer between 0 and 10.

11. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic polymer is a polymer comprising monomer units having at least one carboxylic acid chemical function, preferably selected from carbomers or a crosslinked acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate copolymer, and preferably a carbomer.

12. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the continuous aqueous phase, or even said dispersion, does not comprise a surfactant.

13. A method for preparing a dispersion as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising the following steps: - optionally, heating an oily fluid FI and / or an aqueous fluid FE, to a temperature of 40°C to 150°C; - bringing the aqueous fluid FE and the oily fluid FI into contact;and - the formation of oil phase droplets, consisting of the oily fluid FI, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, consisting of the aqueous fluid FE, said droplets comprising a shell isolating the core of the oil phase droplets from the dispersion, wherein: - the oily fluid FI comprises at least one oil, at least one pigment and at least one cationic polymer, in particular amodimethicone, and optionally in addition at least one lipophilic gelling agent, the amount of amine functions contributed by the cationic polymer, in the oil phase, being between 10.8 pmol and 32.4 pmol per gram of oil phase, and - the aqueous fluid FE comprises at least water and at least one anionic polymer, in particular a carbomer, and optionally in addition at least one hydrophilic texturizing agent.;

14. A composition, in particular a cosmetic, comprising at least one dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 12, optionally in association with at least one physiologically acceptable.

15. Composition according to claim 14, said composition being a makeup composition, in particular a foundation composition.

16. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method, in particular makeup and / or care, preferably makeup, of keratinous material, in particular of the skin, lips or hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous material at least one dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 12 or at least one composition according to claim 14 or 15.