Hair cleansing composition
The combination of anionic surfactants, alpha-hydroxy acids, and beta-hydroxy acids in a cleansing composition addresses the issue of short-lasting cleanliness in shampoos by deeply cleansing and conditioning hair, achieving long-lasting cleanliness and improved hair quality.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022000053
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2021-11-30
- Filing Date
- 2022-01-05
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-24
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-01-05
AI Technical Summary
Existing shampoos fail to provide long-lasting cleanliness for oily hair and scalp, as they primarily remove newly secreted sebum without effectively addressing stubborn sebum and dead cells.
A cleansing composition comprising anionic surfactants, alpha-hydroxy acids, and beta-hydroxy acids, along with optional cationic polymers and alkanolamines, which work together to deeply cleanse and condition hair, maintaining cleanliness for at least 24 hours.
The composition effectively removes stubborn sebum and dead cells, providing long-lasting cleanliness and improved hair conditioning, with enhanced smoothness and softness in both wet and dry states.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Hair cleansing composition Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a cleansing composition for hair. The present invention also relates to a process for cleansing hair, background art
[0002] Oily scalp and hair have become an annoying scalp problem all over the world. People usually use shampoo for oily hair to remove dirt and oil from the scalp.
[0003] There are many shampoos developed to cleanse the hair and scalp.
[0004] For example, US 9018 150 B1 discloses a cleaning composition containing from about 6% to about 20% of at least one nonionic surfactant; from about 3% to about 10% of at least one amphoteric surfactant; from about 2% to about 8% of at least one anionic surfactant; and from about 0.1% to about 5% of at least one conditioning cationic surfactant, a conditioning cationic amine, or a combination thereof; the amount of nonionic surfactant present in the final composition being greater than the amount of amphoteric surfactant, and the ratio of nonionic surfactant (a) to anionic surfactant (c) being at least about 1.9 times that of the anionic surfactant, based on the weight percentage of each surfactant in the final composition.
[0005] However, for most of the commercial shampoos available, consumers are not satisfied with the long-lasting cleanliness between two hair washes. Since most of the commercial shampoos available only contain surfactants as cleaning agents, they can only remove the liquid sebum that has just been secreted. The liquid sebum composition will be transferred by fungi and bacteria on the scalp and will form stubborn sebum together with dead cells. Most shampoos can barely remove the stubborn sebum, so they are not effective in cleaning the oily scalp.
[0006] It is therefore desirable that the shampoo can keep the hair and scalp clean for a longer period of time.
[0007] It is therefore necessary to develop cleansing compositions for hair, capable of providing a long-lasting cleansing effect. Summary of the invention
[0008] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop cleansing compositions for hair, which can provide a long-lasting cleansing effect.
[0009] Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for cleaning hair.
[0010] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a cleansing composition for the hair comprising:
[0011] a) at least one anionic surfactant; and
[0012] b) at least one alpha-hydroxy acid and at least one beta-hydroxy acid.
[0013] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is free of silicone.
[0014] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a hair cleansing process comprising applying the composition as described above to the hair, then rinsing the hair with water after an optional period of exposure.
[0015] The inventors found that the composition according to the present invention can provide a good cleaning effect, that is, the composition can keep the hair clean for at least 24 hours.
[0016] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent from the detailed description and examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0017] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, particularly in the expressions "between ... and..." and "from ... to...".
[0018] As used herein, the term "comprising" shall be construed to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features.
[0019] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").
[0020] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by persons skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by persons skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0021] The expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0022] As used herein, the term "silicone-free" means that no silicone-containing compound is purposely added and that the content of the silicone-containing compound in the composition is less than 0.5% by weight, particularly less than 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In particular, there is no silicone in the composition.
[0023] According to the first aspect of the present invention, a hair cleansing composition comprises:
[0024] a) at least one anionic surfactant; and
[0025] b) at least one alpha-hydroxy acid and at least one beta-hydroxy acid. Anionic surfactants
[0026] According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant.
[0027] The expression “anionic surfactant” designates a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
[0028] In the present description, a species is said to be “anionic” when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
[0029] The anionic surfactants may be sulfate and / or sulfonate surfactants. It is understood in the present description that:
[0030] - the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise carboxylate functions; and
[0031] - the anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
[0032] The anionic sulfonate surfactants which can be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).
[0033] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds;
[0034] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
[0035] these compounds can be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0036] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen, alone or in combination, from:
[0037] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;
[0038] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates;
[0039] - C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates,
[0040] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
[0041] The anionic sulfate surfactants which can be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).
[0042] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds;
[0043] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
[0044] these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0045] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen, alone or in combination, from:
[0046] - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates and in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfates,
[0047] - alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, comprising preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
[0048] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohols.
[0049] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
[0050] Among the amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned, there may be included monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0051] Alkali or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
[0052] Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in combination, from:
[0053] - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates and in particular C12-C20;
[0054] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
[0055] -C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;
[0056] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates;
[0057] -C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates;
[0058] in particular in the form of alkali metal salts such as sodium or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohols.
[0059] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and a combination thereof.
[0060] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 9% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 12% by weight to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxyacids
[0061] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one alpha-hydroxy acid and at least one beta-hydroxy acid. Alpha-hydroxy acids
[0062] By "alpha-hydroxy acid" is meant, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group).
[0063] Suitable alpha-hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecan oic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid.
[0064] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid and combinations thereof.
[0065] More preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid in the composition consists of lactic acid.
[0066] Lactic acid, or 2-hydroxypropanoic acid, gently exfoliates excess sebum, residue, and dead cells around the follicles and gives energy and bounce to the hair roots. In addition, lactic acid also stimulates the production of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) in the skin, thus improving the barrier function and hydration of the skin.
[0067] Advantageously, the alpha-hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.3% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1.5% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Beta-hydroxy acids
[0068] By "beta-hydroxy acid" is meant, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms.
[0069] Suitable beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroxybutyric acid, beta-hydroxy beata-methylbutyric acid, carnitine, their derivatives and combinations thereof.
[0070] Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid and its derivative of formula:
[0071] in which R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or more double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably 3 to 11 carbon atoms and which may be substituted for example by at least one substituent chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a free carboxyl function or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0072] R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula:
[0073] in which Ri is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0074] Preferred salicylic acid derivatives include 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid.
[0075] More preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and their combination.
[0076] Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.
[0077] Salicylic acid, or 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, is provided to the chemical peel composition to allow better penetration of the composition into the skin. Salicylic acid penetrates deeper into the skin than alpha-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid.
[0078] Advantageously, the beta-hydroxy is present in an amount ranging from 0.3% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0079] The inventors found that the composition according to the present invention can effectively remove stubborn sebum. When it comes to alpha-hydroxy acid and beta-hydroxy acid, especially lactic acid and salicylic acid or its derivative, lactic acid can decompose desmosome protein and remove dead cells, while salicylic acid or its derivative can penetrate deep into the follicles and loosen stubborn sebum therein. Thus, the combination of surfactants and hydroxy acids produces a long-lasting cleaning effect. Cationic polymers
[0080] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one cationic polymer.
[0081] Preferably, the cationic polymer is chosen from cationic guar compounds.
[0082] Suitable examples of cationic guar compounds are non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, e.g., guar hydroxyalkyl(C1-C4)-hydroxyalkyl(C1-C4)trimonium chloride, guar hydroxyalkyl(C1-C4)trimonium chloride.
[0083] Suitable cationic guar gum derivatives are those bearing the PCPC (Personal Care Products Council, formerly CTFA) designation of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, commercially available for example as JAGUAR C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of cationic groups and a high viscosity. The low degree of cationic substitution results in a cationic charge density of 0.0008. Other suitable materials include that known as JAGUAR C15, having a moderate degree of substitution and low viscosity, JAGUAR C17 (high degree of substitution, hence a cationic charge density of 0.0016, high viscosity) and JAGUAR C16 which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups. JAGUAR C16 has a cationic charge density of 0.0008.
[0084] Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride may also be commercially available, for example under the name N-HANCE CG 13 from Ashland.
[0085] Also suitable is guar hydroxypropyl-hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, commercially available under the name JAGUAR 162, which is a high transparency, medium viscosity guar having a low degree of substitution.
[0086] Preferably, the cationic polymer is selected from guar hydroxyalkyl(CrC4)-hydroxyalkyl(C1-C4)trimonium chloride, guar hydroxyalkyl(CrC4)trimonium chloride, and a combination thereof.
[0087] More preferably, the cationic polymer is chosen from guar hydroxypropyl-hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and a combination thereof.
[0088] Preferably, the cationic polymer is guar hydroxypropyl-hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0089] Preferably, if present, the cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkanolamines
[0090] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one alkanolamine.
[0091] For the purposes of the invention, the term "alkanolamine" means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group and one or more linear or branched C1 to C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0092] Alkanolamines, such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines, comprising from one to three identical or different C1 to C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, are in particular suitable for implementing the invention.
[0093] Among the alkanolamines, mention may be made of monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, and combinations thereof.
[0094] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkanolamine chosen from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, and a combination thereof.
[0095] More preferably, the alkanolamine is chosen from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, and a combination thereof.
[0096] Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises triethanolamine as alkanolamine.
[0097] It has been found that a high amount of acid causes a problem: the cationic polymer cannot attach to the surface of the hair fiber due to electrostatic screening. The alkanolamine can react with the hydroxy acid to form a cleavage-type molecule to decrease the electrostatic screening, which improves the deposition of the cationic polymer.
[0098] Preferably, if present, the alkanolamine is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0099] The inventors found that with the presence of the cationic polymer and the alkanolamine, the composition according to the present invention can demonstrate a good effect conditioning on the hair, for example, the smoothness of the hair in wet and / or dry state is improved.
[0100] As used herein, the term "conditioning" means imparting to the hair at least one property selected from compatibility, manageability, moisture retention, luster, shine, smoothness, and softness. Conditioning condition is evaluated by comparing hair treated with the test composition to hair treated with a commercial product. Aqueous phase
[0101] The composition according to the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
[0102] Preferably, the aqueous phase is a continuous phase.
[0103] The aqueous phase of the present invention comprises water.
[0104] The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature of 20 to 25°C), for example polyols such as C2-C6 polyols, more particularly glycerin, hexylene glycol; glycol ethers (containing in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, and combinations thereof.
[0105] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 70% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 70% by weight to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients
[0106] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise any other additional ingredient usually used in the field of self-cleaning products, in particular shampoos.
[0107] A person skilled in the art can choose the amount of additional ingredients so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0108] For example, such additional ingredients include pH adjusting agents, preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances, electrolytes and stabilizers, plant extracts, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, glycols, emollients, derivatives of the foregoing, and combinations thereof.
[0109] Non-limiting examples of pH adjusting agents include potassium acetate, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, sodium citrate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, and combinations thereof.
[0110] The pH adjusting agent is used in an amount such that the pH of the composition of the present invention is less than or equal to 6.5, preferably from 2 to 6.5, more preferably from 3.5 to 4.5.
[0111] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a cleansing composition for the hair comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0112] a) from 12% by weight to 18% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant;
[0113] b) from 2% by weight to 8% by weight of lactic acid and from 1% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one beta-hydroxy acid selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and combinations thereof;
[0114] c) from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one cationic polymer selected from guar hydroxypropyl-hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and a combination thereof; and
[0115] d) from 1.5% by weight to 3% by weight of at least one alkanolamine chosen from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, and a combination thereof,
[0116] wherein the pH of the composition is from 3.5 to 4.5. Preparation and use
[0117] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to d), as essential ingredients, as well as one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.
[0118] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0119] The composition according to the present invention may have a gel-like texture.
[0120] According to the second aspect of the present invention, a hair cleansing process comprises applying the composition as described above to the hair and then rinsing with water after an optional period of exposure.
[0121] The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting its scope. EXAMPLES
[0122] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0123] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier Lactic acid L(+)-LACTIC ACID 90% HEA T STABLE PERSONAL CARE GRADE JUNGBUNZLAUER Salie y li acid SALICYLIC ACID USP ALTA LABORATORIES Triethanolamine TRIETANOLAMINA 99 OXITENO Hydroxypropyl guar hydr oxypropyltrimonium chlo ride JAGUAR C 162 SGI RHODIA (SOLVAY) Sodium laureth sulfate GALAXY LES 170-MB GALAXY SURFACTAN TS
[0124] Invention Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4
[0125] The shampoos according to the inventive examples (El.) 1 to 4 and the comparative examples (EC.) 1 to 4 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as percentages by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of each shampoo, unless otherwise indicated).
[0126] [Tables2] Ingredients EL 1 EL 2 EI.3 EL 4 EC.l EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Sodium laureth sulfate 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 Lactic acid 6 6 6 6 - 0.20 7.5 - Salicylic acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 0.2 - - 3.5 Triethanolamine 2.2 1.1 - 2.2 - - 2.2 2.2 Guar hydroxypropyl hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.35 0.35 0.35 - 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 Sodium hydroxide 0.38 0.38 1.27 1.27 0.14 0.10 1.52 0.76 Water 74.6 75.7 75.9 74.0 84.3 84.4 74.43 78.19 PH 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 4.3 4.5 3.8 3.8
[0127] The shampoos of the invention examples (El.) 1 to 4 are compositions according to the present invention.
[0128] The shampoo of Comparative Example (EC.) 1 does not include alpha-hydroxy acid.
[0129] The shampoo of Comparative Example (EC.) 2 does not include beta-hydroxy acid.
[0130] The shampoo of Comparative Example (EC.) 3 does not include beta-hydroxy acid.
[0131] The shampoo of Comparative Example (EC.) 4 does not comprise alpha-hydroxy acid. Preparation procedure
[0132] Each shampoo was prepared as follows, taking the shampoo of Invention Example 1 as an illustration:
[0133] 1) adding guar hydroxypropyl-hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride into water under stirring to form a clear base at room temperature;
[0134] 2) add sodium laureth sulfate to the transparent base while stirring;
[0135] 3) add lactic acid, salicylic acid, triethanolamine and sodium hydroxide to obtain shampoo. Assessment
[0136] The conditioning effect of each shampoo was evaluated as follows:
[0137] I) Hair treatment with the tested shampoo
[0138] A bundle of damaged hair was selected. The hair was combed and wetted under running water, the tested shampoo was applied evenly to the damaged hair from root to tip, the shampoo was gently massaged into the hair with two fingers from root to tip (without making knots) to lather the shampoo. The shampoo was removed by rinsing with tap water until all the lather was removed.
[0139] II) Smoothness of rinsing
[0140] The hair was stroked by two fingers from the root while rinsing, the degree of non-resistance was judged as the finger slid through the hair.
[0141] III) Evaluation of smoothness and softness in the wet state
[0142] The hair was stroked by two fingers from the root, and the hair care performance of the shampoo was evaluated according to the smoothness of the hair surface.
[0143] The hair was curled from the tip using two fingers, and the softness of the hair was evaluated on the surface of the hair according to the curlability of the sample and the force generated during the curling process.
[0144] IV) Evaluation of smoothness and softness in the dry state and of the coating of dry hair:
[0145] The hair was either air-dried naturally or blow-dried in an oven at 60°C until completely dry.
[0146] The hair was stroked with two fingers from the root, and the hair care performance of the shampoo was evaluated according to the smoothness of the hair surface.
[0147] The hair was stroked with two fingers from the root, and the intensity of deposition and residue on the hair was assessed.
[0148] The hair was curled from the tip using two fingers, and the softness of the hair was evaluated on the hair surface according to the curlability of the sample and the force generated in the curling process.
[0149] A silicone-free shampoo (Loreal Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo-WATER PUMP from L'Oréal) was used as a reference in parallel with the shampoo tested in the conditioning effect evaluation above.
[0150] The cleansing effect of each shampoo was evaluated as follows:
[0151] 6 volunteers were recruited, half of each volunteer's hair was washed with the test shampoo, and the other half of each volunteer's hair was washed with a reference product.
[0152] A silicone-free shampoo (Loreal Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo-WATER PUMP from L'Oréal) was used as a reference in the above cleansing effect evaluation.
[0153] The ratings of the cleaning effect of each shampoo tested were given by the volunteers 24 hours after application and the average was calculated.
[0154] The ratings for the conditioning effect and the cleansing effect of each shampoo tested were given by volunteers and their average was calculated, with the ratings for the cleansing effect being given 24 hours after application.
[0155] The rating standard for the conditioning effect and cleansing effect of each shampoo tested is as follows:
[0156] —: the tested shampoo is significantly inferior to the reference;
[0157] -: the tested shampoo is slightly inferior to the reference;
[0158] =: the tested shampoo is similar to the reference;
[0159] +: the tested shampoo is slightly superior to the reference; and
[0160] ++: the shampoo tested is clearly superior to the reference.
[0161] The results of the conditioning effect and the cleansing effect are summarized in Table 3.
[0162] [Tables3] Properties ELI EL 2 El. 3 EL 4 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Smoothness of rinsing ++ + — — — — + + Smoothness of wet hair ++ + - — — — + - Softness of wet hair + + - - — — + + Smoothness of dry hair + + - — — — + + Softness of dry hair + + - - — — + + Coating of dry hair ++ + - — — — — — Long-lasting clean scalp + + + + - - — -
[0163] It can be seen that the composition according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain a lasting cleanliness effect.
[0164] It can also be seen that with the presence of the cationic polymer and the alkanolamine, the composition according to the present invention can demonstrate a good conditioning effect on the hair, for example, the smoothness and softness of the hair in the wet and dry states are improved.
Claims
Claims
1. A hair cleansing composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 12% by weight to 18% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant; b) from 2% by weight to 8% by weight of lactic acid and from 1% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one beta-hydroxy acid selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and a combination thereof; (c) from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one cationic polymer selected from guar hydroxypropyl-hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and a combination thereof;and d) from 1.5% by weight to 3% by weight of at least one alkanolamine selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, and a combination thereof, wherein the pH is from 3.5 to 4.5, and wherein there is no silicone.;
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the anionic surfactant is chosen from: - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfates; - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates, in particular lauryl sulfosuccinates; - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; - C6-C24 and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates; in particular in the form of alkali metals such as sodium salts or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohols.
3. A method of cleaning hair comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2 to hair, then rinsing the hair with water after an optional period of exposure.