Solid cosmetic composition in emulsion

Abstract

Solid Cosmetic Composition in Emulsion: The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for makeup or lip or skin care in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase. This composition comprises water in a concentration greater than 5% by mass relative to the mass of the product, an oil having a principal melting point centered between 20°C and 35°C, and a gelling agent for the aqueous phase. The invention also relates to a method for preparing this solid cosmetic composition, as well as a method for applying makeup or lip or skin care.

Description

Title of the invention: Solid cosmetic composition in emulsion technical field

[0001] The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising a continuous aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase, said oily phase comprising a low-melting-point fat and the aqueous phase comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent. The invention also relates to a method for preparing such a composition and its use for makeup or skincare, in particular for lip or skin makeup and / or care. Previous technique

[0002] Makeup sticks are essentially wax-based and anhydrous. They have the disadvantage of leaving a greasy and noticeable film, so there remains a need to provide freshness and moisturizing care to the lips or facial skin by formulating lipsticks, lip balms and complexion products containing water that offer a surprising sensory experience with extreme glide.

[0003] It is desirable to obtain a composition whose texture is sufficiently rigid to be molded into a stick while allowing comfortable application of a thin, high-coverage film on the lips or skin.

[0004] Thus, one of the problems underlying the invention aims to obtain a solid cosmetic composition at room temperature in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion which provides a feeling of freshness, which is moisturizing, comfortable and non-drying for the lips and skin.

[0005] Furthermore, providing solid cosmetic products for makeup and lip or skin care that offer a surprising sensation upon application to the skin remains a constant objective. A second problem underlying the invention is to offer a solid composition that glides extremely smoothly upon application and leaves a thin, high-coverage film on the lips or skin. Description of the invention

[0006] The invention addresses these issues and offers a lipstick or foundation in stick form providing a fresh and moisturizing effect, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase gelled with a hydrophilic gelling agent and a fatty phase containing at least one non-liquid fat at room temperature having a melting point from 20°C to 35°C.

[0007] A first object of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition solid for makeup or lip or skin care, said composition being in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase, said composition comprising: - water in a content exceeding 5% by mass relative to the mass of the composition, - an emulsifying system comprising at least one non-ionic, non-siliconized surfactant, - a fat having a melting point centered on a value between 20°C and 35°C, having a percentage of liquid fraction at 20°C less than 20% by mass, and having a percentage of liquid fraction at 35°C greater than 80% by mass, and - a gelling agent for the aqueous phase.

[0008] The percentage of liquid fraction at 20°C and the percentage of liquid fraction at 35°C can be measured by any method known to those skilled in the art. For example, they can be measured with a Mettler-Toledo DSC 1 differential thermal analyzer. For the measurements, 40 µl crucibles with lids having a 50 µm diameter hole are used, with a sample mass of 10 to 20 mg. The temperature cycle undergone by the sample can be as follows: - A stabilization period of 5 minutes at 25°C - An initial heating from 25 to 100°C at a rate of 10°C / min. This initial heating aims to eliminate the thermal history of the sample related to its industrial manufacturing process, by achieving complete fusion. - Cooling from 100°C to -50°C at 5°C / min. This cooling aims to completely crystallize the sample at a controlled rate. - A second heating from -50°C to 100°C at a rate of 10°C / min. This second heating allows a fully crystallized sample to melt under controlled conditions, enabling rigorous comparison between samples.

[0009] The values ​​extracted from these measurements, on the second melting peak, are in particular: - the total enthalpy of fusion (in J / g), that is, the amount of energy required to completely melt 1 g of sample. This measurement is performed by integrating the entire fusion peak, - The percentage of melting as a function of temperature, - the reaction rate, - The temperature as a function of the percentage of melting, and - the starting and ending temperatures of melting.

[0010] Unexpectedly, the Inventors observed that it was possible to prepare a cosmetic composition providing freshness and hydration while also offering a new sensory experience and smooth application. These advantages allow for to propose a new lip or skin makeup product that provides new skincare properties and is non-drying for the lips and facial skin.

[0011] Another advantage of the solid cosmetic composition of the invention is related to its very easy application, its surprising texture when applied to the skin, as well as the sensory effect of freshness it provides.

[0012] For the purposes of the invention, ambient temperature means a temperature ranging from 20°C to 25°C.

[0013] The composition of the invention comprises a fat having a principal melting peak centered on a value between 20°C and 35°C. The mass percentage of the liquid fraction of the fat at 20°C is less than 20%, preferably less than 10%, and preferably even less than 5%. The mass percentage of the liquid fraction of the fat at 35°C is greater than 80%, preferably greater than 90%, and preferably even greater than 95%.

[0014] The oily substance provides a very fresh, even cold effect and also provides a very pleasant application thanks to an extreme melting and gliding on application, and which leaves a thin film on the lips or on the skin.

[0015] This fatty substance can be chosen from among monoesters of aliphatic acid and fatty alcohol, such as myristyle lactate. Two other examples of such a fatty substance are LIPEX® SMP (INCI name: hydrogenated vegetable oil) manufactured by UNIPEX, and the product SUSTOLEO® TL (INCI name: trilaurin).

[0016] In a particular embodiment, the fat is a monoester or a mixture of monoesters of a C4-C10 aliphatic acid and a C16-C18 alcohol. An example is a fat comprising stearyl heptanoate (for example, the TEGOSOFT® SH branded product supplied by EVONIQ, or the PELEMOL® 187 commercial product from KREGLINGER EUROPE).

[0017] The fat may be a mixture comprising stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate, in particular a mixture comprising 60-80% by mass of stearyl heptanoate and 20-40% by mass of stearyl caprylate. Several such mixtures are commercially available, including CRODAMOL® W-SS MB sold by CRODA, the DUB SOLIDE® brand product from STEARINERIE DUBOIS, PRODHYPHORE® ST from PRODIGE, or the PCL-SOLID 660086 product.

[0018] The fatty substance may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 20%, and better from 1% to 15% by mass of the mass of the composition.

[0019] The solid cosmetic composition of the invention further comprises at least one gelling agent for the aqueous phase. The gelling agent may exist in nature (it will also be said that the gelling agent is natural), be synthetic, or be artificial. A gelling agent A synthetic product can be of natural origin when it is obtained from at least one natural reagent.

[0020] The gelling agent is preferably natural and may be extracted from a plant.

[0021] The Inventors have observed that the nature of the gelling agent of the aqueous phase can have an influence on the hardness of the composition, its ease of application on the lips or skin, and the feeling of freshness provided by the composition after its application.

[0022] This gelling agent can be chosen from scleroglucan gum; xanthan gum and its derivatives such as dehydroxanthan gum; guar gum; tara gum; ghatti gum; sclerotium gum; starches; agar; agarose; carrageenans such as iota carrageenan, lambda carrageenan and kappa carrageenan; locust bean gum; alginates; celluloses and its derivatives; hydroxypropyl guar; pectins and gellan gum.

[0023] According to one embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from carrageenans and sclerotium gum.

[0024] The gelling agent may be chosen from sclerotium gum (such as Amigum® or Amigel Granule® sold by Alban Muller), agar (such as Ina Agar® CS-320 sold by Iwase Cosfa), gellan gum (such as Kelcogel® CG-LA sold by Azelis), xanthan gum (such as Rhodicare® T sold by Solvay Novecare or Keltrol® CG LAXT sold by CP Keltro), carrageenans (such as Satiagum® VPC 430 sold by Cargill Beauty or Alcogel® RCG 4041), cellulose and its derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose (such as Natrosol® 250 M PC) and hydroxypropylcellulose, tamarind gum (such as Tamarind®, INCI name tamarindus indica seed gum), alginates (such as Manugel® DMB), silicates (such as the product LAPONITE® XLG with INCI name hydrous sodium lithium magnesium silicate, and their mixtures.One of these mixtures is commercially available under the brand name Siligel® H and includes xanthan gum and sclerotium gum.

[0025] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one natural polysaccharide selected from carrageenans and sclerotium gum. In a particular embodiment, the gelling agent of the aqueous phase is sclerotium gum, which enhances the advantageous properties of the fatty substance mentioned above.

[0026] The gelling agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.02% to 10%, and better from 0.05% to 5% by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

[0027] For example, the composition comprises 0.01% to 1.5% by mass, 0.02% to 1% by mass, or 0.05% to 0.8% by mass of an aqueous phase gelling agent selected from carrageenans and sclerotium gum.

[0028] The water content in the composition can be between 5% and 50%, preferably between 10% and 45%, and better between 20% and 40% by mass of the mass of the composition.

[0029] The composition may also include at least one glycol, preferably selected from polyglycols such as pentylene glycol (also called pentane-1,2-diol), 1,3-butylene glycol, hexane-1,2-diol, glycerol, and polyethylene glycols. The total glycol content advantageously varies from 0 to 30%, and preferably from 2% to 20%, by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

[0030] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises one, two or three glycols, such as vegetable glycerol, hexane-l,2-diol or vegetable 1,3-butylene glycol, the total mass percentage of glycol(s) ranging from 5% to 15% by mass of the mass of the composition.

[0031] The composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifying system including at least one non-ionic, non-siliconized surfactant. Such a surfactant enables the formation of a water-in-oil emulsion. Its HLB (hydrophilic / lipophilic balance) is preferably less than 8, advantageously less than or equal to 7, and even better, less than or equal to 6.

[0032] The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System, A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection, ICI Americas Inc., 1984." For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Da Vies method.

[0033] The non-ionic non-siliconized surfactant may advantageously be chosen from (poly)oxyalkylated sugar esters and ethers; (poly)oxyalkylated fatty acid and polyol esters; (poly)oxyalkylated alcohols; polyoxyalkylated glycol fatty acid ester polymers; polyol alkyl esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0034] Fatty acid and (poly)oxyalkylated polyol esters are advantageously formed from fatty acids comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and (poly)oxyalkylated polyol such as (poly)oxyalkylated glycerol or (poly)oxyalkylated sorbitol.

[0035] The esters of fatty acids and (poly)oxyalkylated polyol are advantageously chosen, for example, from mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-oleates or stearates of sorbitol or glycerol, glycerol laurates or polyethylene glycol. The polyoxyalkylated groups are preferably (poly)oxyethylated and / or (poly)oxypropylated groups.

[0036] The (poly)oxyalkylated alcohols are preferably (poly)oxyethylated alcohols and / or (poly)oxypropylened, and preferably comprise a fatty alcohol ether comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms and polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising 1 to 10, better between 2 and 6, ethylene glycol motifs.

[0037] Polymers of the polyoxyalkylated glycol fatty acid ester type are advantageously a sequenced polymer, preferably with an ABA structure, comprising poly(hydroxylated ester) sequences and polyethylene glycol sequences. The fatty acid ester of said polymer may be polyhydroxylated. It generally has a chain comprising 12 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0038] The esters may be selected from oleates, palmitates, or stearates. The polyethylene glycol sequences of said polymer preferably comprise 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, and even more preferably 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide. A particularly suitable polymeric surfactant is polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate 30 EO sold under the trade name Arlacel® P 135 by ICI.

[0039] As examples of alkyl polyol esters, we can cite polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product marketed under the name CITHROL® DPHS-SO-(MV) by the company CRODA. We can also mention glycerol and / or sorbitan esters and for example polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate marketed under the name LAMEFORM® TGI by the company Cognis, polyglycerol-4 isostearate marketed under the name Isolan® GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate marketed under the name Arlacel® 987 by the company ICI, sorbitan and glycerol isostearate marketed under the name Arlacel® 986 by the company ICI, the diester of a mixture of isostearic, polyhydroxystearic and sebacic acids with Polyglycerin-4 (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate) under the name Isolan® GPS by the company Evonik.

[0040] The non-ionic, non-siliconized surfactant is preferably selected from sorbitan esters, polyglycerol esters, and mixtures thereof. The emulsifying system may include polyglyceryl-6-polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2-isostearate, and sorbitan sesquioleate.

[0041] In a particular embodiment, the emulsifying system comprises a mixture of NIKKOMULESE® WO-NS MB supplied by Nippon Surfactant Industrie (POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE, POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE and DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE), and SPAN 83-LQ® supplied by Croda (SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE).

[0042] The composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifying system comprising at least one surfactant, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, or even 0.5% to 15% by mass, of preference ranging from 1% to 10% by mass.

[0043] The emulsifying surfactant system may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 6% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition, and preferably ranging from 2 to 6% by mass.

[0044] The composition may include, in addition to the fatty substance described above, another fatty substance chosen from among oils and waxes.

[0045] The composition may thus include a wax that structures the cosmetic composition and gives it a solid consistency. The wax, unlike the fatty substance described above, may have a melting point between 30°C and 100°C. The composition may advantageously include a wax or a mixture of waxes with a melting point between 55°C and 70°C, preferably in a concentration of 5% to 15% by mass.

[0046] The wax mixture may include candelilla wax and a fatty substance derivative contained in olive such as the commercial product Phytowax®, rice wax, camauba wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, soy wax, rapeseed wax, olive wax, cottonseed wax, berry wax, Chinese insect wax, montan wax, lanolin and its derivatives, alcohols, acetylated, esterified, polyethoxylated, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, hexyl laurate, jojoba wax, shellac wax and / or polyethoxylated cholesterol ether.

[0047] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of waxes including candelilla wax and olive wax.

[0048] The oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, such as linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, vegetable oils, C10-C40 synthetic ethers, C10-C40 synthetic esters, C12-C26 fatty alcohols, C12-C22 higher fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] Oils can advantageously be chosen from among:

[0050] - C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) can be, for example:

[0051] - isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, hemisqualane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®

[0052] - linear alkanes having respectively C9-C17 hydrocarbon chains, C10-C14, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate, in C15-C19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN® L15, in C9-C12, C12-C14, or C15-C19 such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC (INCI name COCONUT ALKANES (and) COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE) and VEGELIGHT 1618LC (INCI name C15-19 ALKANES (and) COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE),

[0053] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol respec tively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97,

[0054] - fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0055] - synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which RI re presents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1+R2 is >16, such as isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristate 2-octyldodecyl, 2-diethylhexyl succinate;

[0056] - linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70;

[0057] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0058] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms

[0059] - C24-C28 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters

[0060] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of car- acid(s) boxyl(s) hydroxylated by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated;

[0061] and mixtures thereof.

[0062] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one ester oil selected from the group consisting of jojoba esters or triglyceride mixtures obtained by esterification of glycerol with capric acid and caprylic acid.

[0063] The oils that can be used are, for example, jojoba esters or mixtures of triglycerides obtained by esterification of glycerol with capric acid and caprylic acid.

[0064] The cosmetic composition of the invention may further comprise at least one pigment and / or a mother-of-pearl, and preferably at least one organic or inorganic pigment. The pigment and / or the mother-of-pearl may have been surface-modified by one or more chemical or mechanical treatments.

[0065] The pigment and / or nacre content advantageously varies from 0 to 40% by mass, and preferably from 8% to 12% by mass, relative to the mass of the solid cosmetic composition.

[0066] The cosmetic composition may further include at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient selected from UV filters, perfumes, fillers, pH adjusters, antioxidants and preservatives.

[0067] The solid cosmetic composition of the invention may further comprise at least one biologically active agent, preferably with desquamating, moisturizing, emollient, healing, plumping and / or nourishing effects. Examples include tocopherol and its salts, such as tocopherol phosphates, acetate or palmitate, an active ingredient consisting of one or more molecules and / or one or more plant extracts with moisturizing properties different from the glycols mentioned above, such as urea, hyaluronic acid, alpha-hydroxy acids, and lactic acid, or anti-aging agents.

[0068] The solid cosmetic composition of the invention is advantageously in the form of a stick obtained by pouring then molding and demolding, or in the form of a gel which can be poured into a case or into a cup serving as a container when using the product by a consumer.

[0069] The hardness of the sticks can be measured according to the following protocols.

[0070] Measurement of the hardness of a stick with a diameter of 11 mm: The 11 mm diameter sticks were left at room temperature for 24 hours, then placed in an oven at 20°C for 24 hours. Hardness measurements were performed using a texture analyzer (TA-XTPLUS® texture analyzer, Stable Microsystems) and an ETUDEMA wire mobile + grey support according to the following parameters:

[0071] - approach speed: 30 mm / s

[0072] - test speed: 1 mm / s

[0073] - withdrawal speed: 30 mm / s

[0074] - distance: 25 mm

[0075] - wire cutting distance: 70 mm Three measurements were taken for each composition.

[0076] Measurement of the hardness of a stick with a diameter of 18 mm: The 18 mm diameter sticks were left at room temperature for 24 hours, then placed in an oven at 20°C for 24 hours. Hardness measurements were performed using a texture analyzer (TA-XTPLUS® texture analyzer, Stable Microsystems) and an ETUDEMA wire mobile + gray support according to the following parameters: - approach speed: 30 mm / s - test speed: 1 mm / s - withdrawal speed: 30 mm / s - distance: 70 mm - wire cutting distance: 65 mm Three measurements were taken for each composition.

[0077] According to a second aspect, the invention relates to a method for preparing a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising the following steps: a- dispersion or dissolution of the aqueous phase gelling agent in water by mixing, under agitation, and preferably at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 110°C, to prepare an aqueous phase, b- mixing of the fat having a principal melting point centered on a value between 20°C and 35°C, with any other fats such as oils and waxes, at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 110°C, to prepare a fat phase, c- emulsification of the aqueous phase in the fat phase, at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 110°C, d- injection of the emulsion into a mold or into a packaging unit such as a cup or a container, and e- Cooling to room temperature of the assembly obtained, to obtain a product comprising the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0078] The third object of the invention is a method of makeup or lip or skin care comprising a step of applying the composition described above to the lips or skin.

[0079] The composition may be a composition for makeup and / or lip care. It may also be a composition for makeup or skin care, particularly for facial skin. The composition may be pigmented or non-pigmented.

[0080] The composition of the invention can be conditioned to offer a cosmetic product, for example a lipstick stick, a lip balm stick, a foundation, a complexion corrector (concealer), a complexion base (primer), a tinted treatment or a lip balm.

[0081] The composition of the invention may be presented in a container, in a cup, or in a palette. A lip product is preferably presented in a container comprising a base with a guided mechanism and a cap.

[0082] In all examples, the temperature is between 20°C and 25°C unless otherwise stated, and the percentages are expressed by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

[0083] Example 1: Comparison between a solid composition according to the invention and a control Initially, a DSC profile of the fat bodies in Table 1 below was performed according to the following protocol.

[0084] A Mettler-Toledo DSC 1 differential thermal analyzer is used. For the measurements, 40 µl crucibles with lids pierced with a hole of 50 µm diameter tubes are used, with a sample mass of 10 mg to 20 mg. The temperature cycle undergone by the sample is as follows: - a stabilization period of 5 minutes at 25°C - A first heating (first melting) is carried out from 25°C to 100°C at a rate of 10°C / min, achieving total melting - The sample is cooled from 100°C to -50°C at 5°C / min to allow it to crystallize completely at a controlled rate - we heat a second time (second melting) from 50°C to 100°C at a speed of 10°C / min.

[0085] The values ​​extracted from these measurements, on the peak of the second melting, concern the percentage of melting (or liquid fraction) as a function of the temperature applied to the sample. The values ​​of liquid fraction as a function of temperature are reported in Table 1 below, along with the number of peaks identified by the analyzer, and the temperature values ​​at the top of these peaks. Group 1: INVENTION Group 2: WITNESSES STEARYL HEPTANOATE E 70% Stearyl heptanoate + 30% Stearyl caprylate THEOBROMA GRANDIFLO RUM SEED BUTTER OCTYLDODECA NOL AND IRVINGIA GA-BONENSIS KERNEL BUTTER AND HYDROGENAT ED COCO-GLYCERIDES PRODHYPHO RE ST® CRODAMOL® w-ss CUPUACU BUTTER IRWINOE® ES 9890 MB TEMPERATURE (°C) % liquid fraction -35 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 -30 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 -25 0.0 0.0 0.1 1.6 -20 0.0 0.0 0.5 5.4 -15 0.0 0.0 1.4 14.6 -10 0.0 0.0 3.3 41.1 -5 0.0 0.0 7.5 59.6 0 0.0 0.1 16.2 60.3 5 0.0 0.1 23.6 60.9 10 0.1 0.3 32.6 62.8 15 0.4 0.7 46.3 68.1 20 1.4 1.6 70.7 79.0 25 14.7 16.3 86.3 97.5 30 94.8 84.0 99.5 100.0 35 100.0 99.8 100.0 100.0 40 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 Number of melting peaks 1 1 3 2 Melting peak (°C) +27.1 +27.8 -1 ;+19.0; +26.2 -9.3; +23.8

[0087] A different and discriminating profile is clearly observed depending on whether the tested ingredient belongs to group 1 (INVENTION) or to group 2 (CONTROL).

[0088] In a second step, compositions were prepared according to Table 2 below in which 5% by mass of one of the four ingredients tested previously was added.

[0089] The formulas are shown in Table 2 below (M by mass of the final composition). Ingredients (Chemical Name, Function or INCI Name) Comparison 1 Comparison 2 Invention 1 Invention 2 THEOBROMA GRANDIFLORUM SEED BUTTER CUPUACU BUTTER 5% - - - OCTYLDODECANOL AND IRVINGIA GABONENSIS KERNEL BUTTER AND HYDROGENATED IRWINOL® LS 9890 MB 5% STEARYL HEPTANOATE PRODHYPHORE® ST - - 5% - 70% Stearyl heptanoate + 30% Stearyl caprylate CRODAMOL® W-SS - - - 5% Aqueous Phase Gelling Agent 0.5% Surfactant 3% Wax 9% Oil 19% Pigment and Pearlescent Pearl 10% Glycol 10% Preservative qs pH Adjuster qs Water qs 100% Ingredients :

[0091] The gelling agent for the aqueous phase may be sclerotium gum corresponding to the product Amigum® or Amigel Granule®, or carrageenan gum commercially available under the brand names Satiagum® VPC 430 or Alcogel® RCG 4041. The wax may be candelilla wax and Phytowax®, or a mixture thereof. The oil may be a mixture of jojoba esters and caprylic / capric triglyceride. The glycol may be a mixture of vegetable glycerol, hexane-1,2-diol, and vegetable 1,3-butylene glycol.

[0092] Preparation process: 1. PHASE A (fat): - Heat the oils, surfactant, waxes, and pastes to 95°C and stir under a Rayneri mixer at a speed of 100-300 rpm for at least 15 minutes until homogenized. - Pass the mixture of VEGELIGHT® 1214 LC and pigments through the tri-roll mill three times, then add it to the previous mixture while stirring until homogenized and until it reaches 95°C before emulsifying. 2. PHASE B (aqueous): - Mix all ingredients except the cosmetic actives and sclerotium gum at 90°C with an emulsifier centered at 400 rpm for 5 min. The pH is adjusted to 5.5 with the buffer solution. - Then add the cosmetic actives and sclerotium gum under the same stirring conditions. 3. EMULSION: Add phase B to phase A at 95°C in a Rayneri at a speed of 800-900 rpm for 10 min while stirring. 4. Pour the sticks at this temperature, leave for 5 minutes at room temperature and package them in the final packs.

[0093] The compositions thus prepared are poured into molds for the preparation of solid sticks. Evaluation of compositions:

[0094] Table 3 shows the values ​​of the consistency of the stick obtained and the behavior of these formulas when applied to the lips.

[0095] [Tables3] Ingredients Comparison 1 Comparison 2 Invention 1 Invention 2 Consistency Soft Soft Solid Solid Application on lips - - ++ ++

[0096] The advantage of selecting a compound from group 1 (INVENTION) is demonstrated for obtaining compositions with a solid consistency and which are pleasant to apply to the lips.

[0097] Example 2: Advantage of the presence of a gelling agent in the aqueous phase A solid composition was prepared according to Table 4 below by following the manufacturing process of Example 1. [Tables 4] Ingredients Comparative 3 INVENTION 3 Aqueous Phase Gelling Agent 0% 0.5-1% Surfactant 3% Fats 5% Wax 9% Oil 19% Pigment and Pearlescent Powder 10% Glycol 10% Preservative qs pH Adjuster qs Water qs 100% The percentages shown are percentages in niasse. Ingredients :

[0098] Sclerotium gum corresponds to the product Amigum® or Amigel Granule®. Carrageenan gum can be found commercially under the brand names Satiagum® VPC 430 or Alcogel® RCG 4041. The fatty substance may be CRODAMOL® W-SS MB, TEGOSOFT® SH (STEARYL HEPTANOATE 70% and STEARYL CAPRYLATE 30%), PELEMOL® 187 (STEARYL HEPTANOATE), or PRODHYPHORE® ST (STEARYL HEPTANOATE 70% and STEARYL CAPRYLATE 30%), or a mixture thereof. The wax may be candelilla wax and Phytowax®, or a mixture of waxes. The oil may be a mixture of jojoba esters and caprylic / capric triglyceride. Glycol can be a mixture of vegetable glycerol, hexane-l,2-diol and vegetable 1,3-butylene glycol.

[0099] Preparation process: The compositions are prepared according to the procedure described in Example 1. Assessment :

[0100] The effect felt upon application is a feeling of freshness and hydration of the lips.

[0101] Example 3: Study of the influence of the presence of water in the formula

[0102] Lip makeup sticks were prepared according to Table 5 following the manufacturing process described in Example 1. Comparative 4 comprises 5% by mass of water while the composition according to the invention contains 30% by mass of water. Ingredients (Chemical Name, Function or INCI Name) Comparative Brand Name 4 INVENTIO N4 PURIFIED WATER 5 30 SCLEROTIUM GUM AMIGEL® GRANULE 0.3 POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIL SOSTEARATE 12.8 CANDELILLA CERA 7 PIGMENTS 7.8 TRIMETHYLOLPROPANE TRIL SOSTEARATE 6.2 BUTYLENE GLYCOL VEGETAL 5 JOJOBA ESTERS 4.997500 FLORAESTERS-30 ® 5 STEARYL HEPTANOATE + STEARYL CAPRYLATE CRODAMOL® W- SS MB 5 GLYCEROL VEGETAL 3 POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRL CINOLEATE 1 + POLY- GLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE + DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE NIKKOMULESE® WO-NS MB 2 1,2-HEXANEDIOL 2 HYDROGENATED OLIVE OIL STEARYL ESTERS PHYTOWAX® OLIVE 18 L 57 MB 2 SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE SPAN 83®-LQ 1 SODIUM BENZOATE 0.2 Cosmetic active ingredients 0.4 Citric acid + sodium citrate 0.1 PRESERVATIVES qs CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE qs 100 The percentages shown are percentages in whole numbers Assessment :

[0104] The prepared compositions are solid. While the Test product produces an unpleasant application on the lips, the composition according to the invention applies easily and produces a particularly pleasant sensation of freshness.

[0105] Example 4: Solid compositions according to the invention

[0106] Lip makeup sticks according to the invention were prepared using the manufacturing process of Example 1. The formulas are shown in Table 6 below. Ingrédients (Nom chimique, fonction ou Nom INCI) Nom de Marque Invention 5 Invention 6 Invention 7 SCLEROTIUM GUM AMIGEL® GRANULE 0,3 AGAR INA AGAR CS- 320® 0,3 CARRAGEENAN 0,5 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 13,8 POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE 12,8 CANDELILLA CERA 7 PIGMENTS 7,8 TRIMETHYLOLPROP ANE TRIISOSTEARATE 6,2 BUTYLENE GLYCOL VEGETAL 5 JOJOBA ESTERS 4.997500 FLORAESTERS-30 ® 5 STEARYL HEPTANOATE + STEARYL CAPRYLATE CRODAMOL® W- SS MB 5 GLYCEROL VEGETAL 3 POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE 1 + POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE + DIS-TEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE NIKKOMULESE® WO-NS MB 2 1,2-HEXANEDIOL 2 HYDROGENATED OLIVE OIL STEARYL ESTERS PHYTOWAX® OLIVE 18 L 57 MB 2 SORBITAN SES-QUIOLEATE SPAN 83-LQ® 1 SODIUM BENZOATE 0,2 Actifs cosmétiques 0,4 Citric acid + sodium citrate 0,1 CONSERVATEURS qs EAU PURIFIEE qs 100 Les % indiquées sont des % en niasse. Evaluation :

[0108] These compositions according to the invention all have a solid consistency at room temperature.

[0109] Example 5: Lipstick according to the invention

[0110] A composition according to the invention has been prepared according to the manufacturing process of Example 1, the formula of which is indicated in Table 7 below. [YES] [Tables?] Ingredients (Chemical Name, Function or INCI Name) Brand Name INVENTION 8 STEARYL HEPTANOATE PELEMOL® 187 or PRODHYPHORUS ST® 5 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 4.1 POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIL SOSTEARATE 18.4 SCLEROTIUM GUM AMIGUM® 0.3 CANDELILLA CERA 7 PIGMENTS 7.8 TRIMETHYLOLPROPANE TRIL SOSTEARATE 6.2 BUTYLENE GLYCOL VEGETAL 5 JOJOBA ESTERS FLORAESTERS-30® 5 GLYCEROL VEGETAL 3 POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRL CINOLEATE 1 + POLY-GLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE + DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE NIKKOMULESE® WO-NS MB 2 1,2-HEXANEDIOL 2 HYDROGENATED OLIVE OIL STEARYL ESTERS PHYTOWAX OLIVE 18L57 MB 2 SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE SPAN 83-LQ® 1 SODIUM BENZOATE 0.2 Cosmetic actives 0.4 Citric acid + sodium citrate 0.1 PRESERVATIVES qs PURIFIED WATER qs 100 The percentages shown are percentages in whole numbers Preparation method:

[0112] 1. PHASE A (bold):

[0113] - Heat the oils, surfactant, waxes and pastes to 95°C and stir under Rayneri at a speed of 100-200 rpm until homogenized.

[0114] - Pass the mixture of POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE MB and three times Add TRIMETHYLOLPROPANE TRIISOSTEARATE to the tri-cylinder, then add it to the previous mixture under agitation until homogenized and until it reaches 95°C before emulsifying.

[0115] 2. PHASE B (aqueous):

[0116] - Mix all ingredients except for the cosmetic actives and the gum of sclerotium at 50°C under a centered emulsifier at 400 rpm for 5 min. The pH is adjusted to 5.5 with the buffer solution.

[0117] - Then add the cosmetic actives and sclerotium gum in the same Agitation conditions for 40 minutes to form the gel.

[0118] 3. EMULSION: Add phase B to phase A at 95°C under deflocculation, while stirring. Rayneri at 900 rpm for 10 min.

[0119] 4. Pour the sticks at this temperature, leave for 5 minutes at room temperature and the package in the final packs. Assessment :

[0120] The composition has a solid consistency which makes it suitable for being poured into a mold to obtain a stick.

[0121] The formula is a lipstick in the form of a solid stick with a diameter of 11 millimeters. The hardness measured according to the method described above is 80 grams.

[0122] The application is particularly easy due to its smooth glide and allows for the application of a very thin film of color to the lips. Furthermore, the high water content produces a particularly pleasant cooling effect for the user. Example 6: Foundation according to the invention

[0123] A composition according to the invention has been prepared according to the manufacturing process of Example 1, the formula of which is indicated in Table 8 below. Ingredients (Chemical Name, Function or INCI Name) Brand Name INVENTION 9 Phase A POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRL CINOLEATE 1 + POLY-GLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE + DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE NIKKOMULESE® WO-NS MB 2 SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE SPAN 83-LQ® 1 CANDELILLA CERA 7 HYDROGENATED OLIVE OIL STEARYL ESTERS PHYTOWAX OLIVE 18L57 MB 2 JOJOBA ESTERS FLORAESTERS-30® 5 STEARYL HEPTANOATE + STEARYL CAPRYLATE CRODAMOL® W-SS MB 5.5 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 4.1 POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIL SOSTEARATE 12.25 C9-C12 ALKANE & COCO- CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE VEGELIGHT® 1214 LC 8.75 PIGMENTS 13.5 Phase B SODIUM BENZOATE 0.2 VEGETAL GLYCEROL 3 ​​1,2-HEXANEDIOL 2 BUTYLENE VEGETAL GLYCOL 5 Citric acid + sodium citrate (buffer solution) 0.1 SCLEROTIUM GUM AMIGUM® 0.05 Cosmetic active ingredients 0.4 PRESERVATIVES qs PURIFIED WATER qs 100 Preparation method:

[0125] 1. PHASE A (bold):

[0126] - Heat the oils, surfactant, waxes and pastes to 95°C and stir under Rayneri at a speed of 100-200 rpm until homogenized.

[0127] - Pass the mixture of VEGELIGHT® 1214 LC and pigments through the tri- three times cylinder, then add it to the previous mixture while stirring until homogenized and until it reaches 95°C before emulsifying.

[0128] 2. PHASE B (aqueous):

[0129] - Mix all ingredients except for the cosmetic actives and the gum of sclerotium at 50°C under a centered emulsifier at 400 rpm for 5 min. The pH is adjusted to 5.5 with the buffer solution.

[0130] - Then add the cosmetic actives and sclerotium gum in the same Agitation conditions for 40 minutes to form the gel.

[0131] 3. EMULSION: Add phase B to phase A at 95°C under deflocculation, while stirring. Rayneri at 900 rpm for 10 min.

[0132] 4. Pour the sticks at this temperature, leave for 5 minutes at room temperature and the package in the final packs. Assessment :

[0133] The composition has a solid consistency which makes it suitable for being poured into a mold to obtain a stick.

[0134] The formula is a lipstick in the form of a solid stick with a diameter of 11 millimeters. The hardness measured according to the method described above is 80 grams.

[0135] The application is particularly easy thanks to its smooth glide and allows for the application of a very thin film of color to the lips. Furthermore, the high water content produces a particularly pleasant cooling effect for the user.

[0136] The formula is a solid stick foundation with a diameter of 18 millimeters that applies to the facial skin in a thin film, producing a fresh effect and a very pleasant glide. The measured hardness of this stick is 104 grams.

[0137] The formula of the example can also be cast in the form of a stick with a diameter of 11 millimeters. The hardness measured according to the previous protocol is 72 grams.

[0138] This stick is used as a concealer, applied to dark circles in small dabs. The application produces a fresh and pleasant effect.

[0139] The formula from the example can finally be poured into a refillable, foam-free cushion compact for a poured foundation. In this case, the formula is scooped with a Use a sponge to apply the product to the facial skin. The application produces a fresh and pleasant effect.

Claims

Demands

1. Solid cosmetic composition for makeup or lip or skin care, said composition being in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase, said composition comprising: - water in a content greater than 5% by mass relative to the mass of the composition, - an emulsifying system comprising at least one non-ionic non-siliconized surfactant, - an oily substance having a melting peak centered on a value between 20°C and 35°C, having a percentage of liquid fraction at 20°C less than 20% by mass, and having a percentage of liquid fraction at 35°C greater than 80% by mass, and - a gelling agent for the aqueous phase.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the gelling agent is selected from scleroglucan gum; xanthan gum; guar gum; tara gum; ghatti gum; sclerotium gum; starches; agar; agarose; carrageenans such as iota carrageenan, lambda carrageenan and kappa carrageenan; locust bean gum; alginates; celluloses; hydroxypropyl guar; pectins and gellan gum.

3. Composition according to claim 2, wherein the gelling agent is selected from carrageenans and sclerotium gum.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the gelling agent is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.02% to 10%, and better still from 0.05% to 5% by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mass percentage of liquid fraction of the fat at 20°C is less than 10%, and preferably less than 5%.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mass percentage of liquid fraction of the fat at 35°C is greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat is a monoester or a mixture of monoesters of a C4-C10 aliphatic acid and a C16-C18 alcohol.

8. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the The fatty substance contains stearyl heptanoate.

9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fat is a mixture comprising stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 20%, and better from 1% to 15% by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content is between 5% and 50%, preferably between 10% and 45%, and better between 20% and 40% by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one glycol selected from polyglycols such as pentylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexane-1,2-diol, glycerol and polyethylene glycols.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-ionic non-siliconized surfactant is selected from sorbitan esters, polyglycerol esters and mixtures thereof.

14. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the emulsifying system comprises polyglyceryl-6-polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2-isostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a wax or a mixture of waxes having a melting temperature of 55°C to 70°C, preferably in a content of 5% to 15% by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

16. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of waxes including candelilla wax and olive wax.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is packaged to offer a lipstick, a lip balm stick, a foundation, a complexion corrector, a foundation base, a tinted moisturizer or a lip balm.

18. A process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a- dispersing or dissolving the aqueous-phase gelling agent in water by mixing, under agitation, and preferably at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 110°C, to prepare an aqueous phase; b- mixing of the fat having a main melting point centered on a value between 20°C and 35°C, with possible other fats such as oils and waxes, at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 110°C, to prepare an oil phase. c- emulsion of the aqueous phase in the oily phase, at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 110°C, d- injection of the emulsion into a mold or into a packaging unit such as a cup or a container, and e- Cooling of the emulsion to room temperature.

19. A method for making up or caring for lips or skin characterized in that it comprises a step of applying to the lips or skin the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17.