Cellulose-stabilized oil-in-water dispersion

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: one or more vegetable oils consisting essentially of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated hydrocarbons, a cellulose polymer, a cellulose powder, and a hydrophilic gelling system comprising a polysaccharide gum and a carboxyvinyl polymer.

Description

Title of the invention: Cellulose-stabilized oil-in-water dispersion FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates in particular to compositions in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion stabilized by celluloses. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The skin is the body's first barrier, exposed to exogenous factors (temperature, wind, cleansing agents...) and / or endogenous factors (hormones, physiological aging...) which can lead to a decrease in its hydration and / or nutrition.

[0003] Prior art is known of gels, oils, creams, serums or moisturizing or nourishing balms to restore the hydro-protective film of the skin and provide comfort and softness.

[0004] But these compositions, which often contain a high level of glycerin and fatty substances, will tend to leave a feeling of nourished but oily skin.

[0005] Consumers are also looking for more natural compositions for their health and for the environment, which limits the choice of raw materials in formulation.

[0006] Developing new sensory and effective compositions, including mostly natural ingredients, is a real challenge.

[0007] We are therefore looking for compositions with a fluid and light texture, yet which are hydrating and nourishing with a significant proportion of oil phase. Fluid compositions such as emulsions or dispersions are conventionally stabilized by surfactants, but some surfactants do not provide the expected stability and / or can cause discomfort on the skin. We therefore aim to develop compositions without surfactants, but which are stable, with a proportion of oil phase, advantageously of natural or plant origin, while maintaining a light and fluid texture.

[0008] The Applicant has demonstrated that the combination of a powdered cellulose, a polymeric cellulose, in an oil-in-water dispersion further comprising an aqueous gelling system comprising a modified or unmodified polysaccharide gum and a modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymer, made it possible to obtain a stable composition, with a fluid texture and conferring a smoothing and moisturizing effect upon application on keratinous materials, in particular the skin.

[0009] The combination of the two types of cellulose and the aqueous gelling system keeps the oil droplets formed by the oil phase in suspension, thus ensuring the effectiveness of the composition for a moisturizing and smoothing effect. Indeed, the oil phase forms a lipid film on the skin to achieve an immediate smoothing and hydrating barrier effect. This structure of oil droplets suspended in a gelled aqueous phase also allows for the delivery of active ingredients that contribute to the composition's anti-free radical action, its effect on transepidermal water loss, and its moisturizing effect. Description of the invention

[0010] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0011] one or more vegetable oils consisting essentially of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated hydrocarbons,

[0012] a cellulose polymer,

[0013] a cellulose powder, and

[0014] a hydrophilic gelling system comprising a polysaccharide gum and a carboxyvinyl polymer.

[0015] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the topical application on said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0016] By "cosmetic composition" we mean any composition with a cosmetic purpose, that is to say aesthetic, which may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratinous materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0017] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0018] According to the invention, "keratinous materials" refers to skin and / or its appendages, and more particularly to human skin and / or lips. In particular, this will refer to the skin of the face and / or neck and / or body, and the lips.

[0019] The compositions of the invention are suitable for all skin types but particularly advantageous for dry and / or fragile skin.

[0020] By "dry and / or fragile skin," we mean healthy skin whose barrier function is impaired by various exogenous factors (temperature, wind, cleansing agents, etc.) and / or endogenous factors (hormones, physiological aging, etc.). DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Vegetable oils according to the invention

[0021] The composition of the invention comprises one or more vegetable oils consisting essentially of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated hydrocarbons.

[0022] Vegetable oils essentially contain lipids, mainly fatty acids and so-called "unsaponifiable" compounds.

[0023] Saturated fatty acids (FAs), such as palmitic or stearic acid, are distinguished from unsaturated fatty acids, in particular monounsaturated (omega-9 such as oleic acid) or polyunsaturated (omega-3 such as alpha-linolenic acid and omega-6 such as linoleic or gamma-linolenic acid).

[0024] The unsaponifiable fraction of vegetable oils generally includes vitamins (vitamin E: tocopherols and tocotrienols), carotenoids and other precursors of vitamin A, vegetable waxes, fatty alcohols, hydrocarbons and sterols.

[0025] By "consisting essentially of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated hydrocarbons", we mean oils consisting of more than 60% unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated hydrocarbons, in particular more than 70%, preferably more than 80%, or even more than 90% unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated hydrocarbons.

[0026] Unsaturated fatty acids and hydrocarbons contain one or more double bonds. They are referred to as monounsaturated (for a single double bond) and polyunsaturated (for at least two double bonds).

[0027] Examples of monounsaturated fatty acids include palmitoleic acid (C16), oleic acid (C18), 11-eicosenoic acid (C20), and erucic acid (C22).

[0028] Examples of polyunsaturated fatty acids include linoleic acid (C18:2), α-linolenic acid (Cl8:3), γ-linolenic acid (Cl8:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentanoic acid (C20:5) and docosahexaenoic acid (C22:6).

[0029] As examples of unsaturated hydrocarbons, squalene can be cited in particular.

[0030] Squalene is notably present in amaranth seed oil, olive oil, palm oil, rice bran oil, and wheat germ oil. In particular, squalene from olive oil is used.

[0031] Examples of vegetable oils consisting essentially of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated hydrocarbons include sunflower oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, grapeseed oil, pumpkin seed oil, virgin sweet almond oil, olive oil, meadowfoam oil (Limnanthes alba), virgin rosehip oil, camelina oil, borage oil, nigella oil, perilla oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0032] According to a particular method, the vegetable oil or oils are chosen from the group consisting of sunflower oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, grapeseed oil, pumpkin seed oil, and mixtures thereof, preferably sunflower oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, and their mixtures.

[0033] The content of vegetable oil(s) consisting essentially of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated hydrocarbons, in the composition of the invention, will generally range from 3% to 12%, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] According to a particular mode, the composition further comprises one or more ingredients selected from ceramides, phospholipids, in particular phospholipids of plant origin such as phytosphingosine, lecithin possibly hydrogenated, and mixtures thereof.

[0035] We can cite in particular the product marketed under the name ECO-CERAMIDE ARGAN with INCI name Glycerin, Argania spinosa kernel oil, ceramide NP, phytosphingosine and hydrogenated lecithin.

[0036] According to a particular mode, the total content of ceramides and phospholipids in the composition of the invention will range from 0.00005 to 0.5%, in particular from 0.0005 to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cellulose polymer

[0037] The composition of the invention further comprises a cellulose polymer, in particular an ethylcellulose polymer.

[0038] A 'polymer' according to the invention is a relatively large molecule made up of the reaction products of smaller repeating chemical units. Polymers have a weight-average molecular weight of 2,000 daltons or more.

[0039] Cellulose is the most abundant natural polymer on Earth. It constitutes the main and essential element of the plant cell wall because it is involved in plant support functions and nutrient exchange.

[0040] The cellulose polymer is composed of glucose units (anhydrogluco-pyranose (AGU) residues linked together by glycosidic [3-(1-4) bonds), which gives rise to linear polymer chains which interact with each other by non-covalent interactions, such as hydrogen or van der Waals, to form the elementary fiber.

[0041] The AGUs are in a chair conformation and possess three hydroxyl groups: two secondary alcohols (at positions 2 and 3) and one primary alcohol (at position 6). The polymers thus formed associate with each other through intermolecular hydrogen bonds, thereby giving the cellulose a fibrillar structure (approximately 1500 molecules per fiber). The degree of polymerization varies considerably depending on the origin of the cellulose; its value can range from a few hundred to a few tens of thousands.

[0042] The hydroxyl groups of cellulose can react partially or totally with various chemical reagents to give cellulosic derivatives possessing their own properties, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or non-ionic. Among these derivatives, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ether esters.

[0043] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers, we may mention in particular alkyl-celluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkyl-celluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed hydroxyalkyl-alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0044] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cellulose polymer is a non-ionic cellulose ether, in particular chosen from alkylcelluloses and preferably ethylcellulose.

[0045] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an alkylcellulose polymer, preferably ethylcellulose.

[0046] The terms 'ethylcellulose polymer' and 'ethylcellulose' will be used interchangeably in the rest of the description.

[0047] By 'ethylcellulose polymer' according to the invention, we mean a cellulose derivative in which some of the hydroxyl groups on the repeated glucose motifs are converted into ethyl ether groups.

[0048] The number of ethyl ether groups can vary and is characterized by the percentage of ethoxylated substitution. The ethoxylated substitution (also called "ethyl ether content") is generally from 10 to 55%.

[0049] Reference may be made in particular to the ethylcellulose polymer described in Dow Chemical's application WO2018057381.

[0050] This cellulose polymer can be used as is or pre-dispersed in a solvent.

[0051] Examples include ethylcellulose polymers marketed under the name ETHOCEL™ by The Dow Chemical Company, including, for example, ETHOCEL™ Standard 4, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7, ETHOCEL™ Standard 10, ETHOCEL™ Standard 20, ETHOCEL™ Standard 45, or ETHOCEL™ Standard 100 with an ethoxylated substitution content of 48.0 to 49.5%. Also examples include AQUALON™ ETHYLCELLULOSE, available from Ashland, Inc., and certain ASHACEL™ products, available from Asha Cellulose Pvt. Ltd.

[0052] We can also cite, according to a particular method, the product marketed under the name EMULFREE CBG MB by the company GATTEFOSSE with the INCI name ISOSTEARYL ALCOHOL and ETHYLCELLULOSE and BUTYLENE GLYCOL COCOATE.

[0053] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises an ethyl- cellulose, isostearyl alcohol and butylene glycol cocoate.

[0054] The content of cellulose polymer, in particular ethylcellulose polymer, in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.05% to 0.2%, in particular from 0.075% to 0.15% by weight of active material (polymer) relative to the total weight of the composition. Cellulose powder

[0055] The composition of the invention further comprises a cellulose powder, distinct from the cellulose polymer described above.

[0056] Cellulose powder means cellulose in microcrystalline or spherical form.

[0057] The cellulose powder can be in the form of spherical cellulose particles and / or spherical cellulose beads.

[0058] Examples of cellulose powders that can be used in the compositions of the invention include: - spherical cellulose beads, such as those marketed by the company Daito Kasei under the name Cellulobeads USF®; - spherical cellulose particles such as the Cellulobeads D10 family (<15 pm); - non-smooth spherical cellulose particles, such as the Cellulobeads D5 family (2-10 pm)).

[0059] The cellulose powder content (distinct from said cellulose polymer described above), in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.5% to 5%, in particular from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophilic gelling system

[0060] The composition of the invention further comprises a hydrophilic gelling system comprising two particular hydrophilic gelling agents.

[0061] For the purposes of this invention, a "hydrophilic gelling agent" is defined as a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention. The gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.

[0062] The hydrophilic gelling system used in the composition of the invention comprises a polysaccharide gum and a carboxyvinyl polymer. Polysaccharide gum

[0063] Polysaccharide gum is a natural or modified gum.

[0064] By "natural or modified gum" is meant a polysaccharide, possibly modified, which hydrates in an aqueous medium to form a viscous solution or dispersion. Natural gums include seaweed extracts, plant exudates, and gums extracted from plant seeds or roots and those obtained by microbiological fermentation. Modified or semi-synthetic gums include derivatives of all natural gums.

[0065] Examples include xanthan gums, carrageenan gums, agar gums, guar gums, gellan gums, sceroglucan gums, and mixtures thereof.

[0066] According to a particular method, a polysaccharide gum of biotechnological origin is used, in particular chosen from scleroglucan gums, xanthan gums, and mixtures thereof.

[0067] Xanthan gum

[0068] Xanthan gum is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of [3-D-glucoses] linked in a [3(1,4) fashion, similar to cellulose. Every other glucose molecule carries a trisaccharide side chain composed of an α-D-mannose, a [3-D-glucuronic acid], and a terminal [3-D-mannose]. Xanthan gums generally have a molecular weight between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 and a viscosity between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa·s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25 °C using a Brookfield LVT viscometer at 60 rpm).

[0069] We can cite in particular the products marketed under the name RHODICARE® by the company RHODIA CHIMIE, and under the name KELTROL® by the company CP-Kelco.

[0070] Scleroglucan

[0071] Scleroglucan is a non-ionic, branched homopolysaccharide composed of 30 [3-D-glucan] motifs. The molecules consist of a main linear chain formed of D-glucose motifs linked by [3(1,3)] bonds, with one in three of these motifs linked to a lateral D-glucose motif by a [3(1,6)] bond. Scleroglucan is, for example, sold under the name AMIGEL® by ALBAN MULLER, or under the name ACTIGUM™ CS by Cargill.

[0072] According to a particular mode, the polysaccharide gum is chosen from the group consisting of xanthan gums, scleroglucan gums, carrageenan gums, agar gums, guar gums, gellan gums, and mixtures thereof, preferably xanthan gums.

[0073] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises a xanthan gum.

[0074] The polysaccharide gum(s) used according to the invention, in particular xanthan gum(s), are present in the composition in a total content generally ranging from 0.05% to 1%, in particular from 0.1% to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Carboxyvinyl polymers

[0075] The hydrophilic gelling system of the composition of the invention further comprises a synthetic polymer selected from modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers.

[0076] These polymers can be copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) selected from α,β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids or their esters, with at least one ethylenic unsaturated monomer (b) comprising a hydrophobic group.

[0077] By "copolymers" we mean copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers but also those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers. Their chemical structure includes in particular at least one hydrophilic motif and at least one hydrophobic motif. By hydrophobic motif is meant a hydrocarbon chain radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0078] Preferably, these copolymers are chosen from among the copolymers resulting from polymerization:

[0079] - of at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid, me- acid monomers ethacrylic acid, and

[0080] - of at least one alkyl (C10-C30) carboxylic acid ester monomer unsaturated preferably selected from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate and mixtures thereof.

[0081] According to a preferred embodiment, these polymers are cross-linked.

[0082] According to a particular embodiment, the carboxyvinyl polymer is chosen from among the acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products marketed by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen® TR-1, Pemulen® TR-2, Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® EDT 2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer® and even more preferably Pemulen® TR-2.

[0083] Among modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, we can also mention sodium polyacrylates such as those marketed under the name Cosmedia SP® containing 90% dry matter and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL® in inverse emulsion containing about 60% dry matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis.

[0084] We can also mention partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel® EM by BASF.

[0085] Modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers can also be selected from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers.

[0086] For the purposes of this application, "(meth)acrylic" means "acrylic or methacrylic".

[0087] For example, we can cite those sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol® 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984, Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer®, or by 3V-Sigma under the name Synthalen® K, Synthalen® L, or Synthalen® M.

[0088] Thus, according to a particular method, the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymer is chosen from the group consisting of: - copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and at least one monomer of the alkyl ester type (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acid, - sodium polyacrylates, - cross-linked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, - and their mixtures.

[0089] According to a particular and preferred mode, the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymer is chosen from the group consisting of copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and at least one monomer of the alkyl ester type (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acid.

[0090] Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, Carbopol (CTFA name: Carbomer) and Pemulen® (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-C30Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) marketed by the Lubrizol company can be mentioned in particular.

[0091] The carboxyvinyl polymer(s), modified or not, are present in the composition of the invention at a content ranging from 0.05% to 1% by weight in dry matter (polymer), in particular from 0.1% to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. AQUEOUS PHASE

[0092] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally also a water-soluble solvent.

[0093] The term "water-soluble solvent" according to the invention means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). Examples include: - lower C1-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures; - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and their mixtures, - and their mixtures.

[0094] It may also include, in addition to the hydrophilic gelling agents described above, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0095] The total water content in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 50% to 90% by weight, in particular from 65% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] The total content of glycols and polyols in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 8% to 15% by weight, in particular from 10% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] The composition may further comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. All excipients commonly used in the preparation of cosmetic compositions intended for use on keratinous materials may be used in the present invention. Preferably, cosmetically acceptable excipients include polymers, surfactants, rheology agents, electrolytes, pH adjusters, preservatives, colorants, pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0098] The composition of the invention may also include lipophilic cosmetic actives (carried in the suspended oil droplets) or hydrophilic cosmetic actives (carried in the gelled aqueous phase).

[0099] These active ingredients can be chosen from moisturizing active ingredients, smoothing active ingredients, anti-aging active ingredients, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0101] One or more natural vegetable oils selected from sunflower oil, jojoba oil, argan oil and mixtures thereof,

[0102] An ethylcellulose,

[0103] A cellulose powder,

[0104] A xanthan gum and an acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer.

[0105] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0106] One or more natural vegetable oils chosen from sunflower oil, jojoba oil, argan oil and mixtures thereof, in a content ranging from 3% to 12%, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0107] Ethylcellulose, in a content ranging from 2% to 8%, in particular from 3% to 6% by weight of active material (polymer) relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0108] A cellulose powder, in a content ranging from 0.5% to 5%, in particular from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0109] Xanthan gum in a total content of 0.05% to 1%, in particular 0.1% to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and an acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer in a content of 0.05% to 1% by weight in dry matter (polymer), in particular 0.1% to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] According to a particularly preferred method, the following will be used: - such as ethylcellulose, the product marketed under the name EMULFREE CBG MB by the company GATTEFOSSE, with the INCI name ISOSTEARYL ALCOHOL and ETHYLCELLULOSE and BUTYLENE GLYCOL COCOATE, and - as acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer), the products marketed by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen® TR-1, Pemulen® TR-2, Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® EDT 2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer® and even more preferentially Pemulen® TR-2.

[0111] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises:

[0112] [Tables 1] Ingredients % by weight WATER Qsp 100 GLYCOLS AND POLYOLS 8 to 15, preferably 10 to 12 VEGETABLE OILS 3 to 12, preferably 5 to 10 CELLULOSE 0.5 to 5, preferably 1 to 2 XANTHAN GUM 0.05 to 1, preferably 0.1 to 0.2 CARBOMER 0.05 to 1, preferably 0.1 to 0.2 SODIUM HYDROXIDE (pH adjuster) Qs PRESERVATIVES Qs ISOSTEARYL ALCOHOL 0.5 to 5, preferably 1 to 3

[0113] Advantageously, the composition comprises a content less than or equal to 1% by weight of surfactant(s) relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably is free of surfactants. GALENIQUE

[0114] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion, with a fluid and opalescent texture.

[0115] By opalescent texture, we mean that the composition has a slightly emulsified appearance but is not totally opaque.

[0116] Its texture is light on application but proves to be very rich and nourishing for the skin and / or lips, especially the skin.

[0117] It can be in the form of a gel, a cream, a serum, preferably a cream or a serum for the face, preferably a serum.

[0118] When applied to keratinous materials, particularly skin, the composition of the invention provides a smoothing and moisturizing effect. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0119] The present invention also relates to a method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition as defined above.

[0120] In particular, the composition of the invention is a cream or serum for the skin of the face and / or neck, intended to provide a smoothing and moisturizing effect.

[0121] The composition of the invention is particularly intended for normal to dry and / or fragile skin.

[0122] The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, percentages are expressed as weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. EXAMPLES

[0123] Example 1: Effect of the combination of the invention on the stability of an oil-in-water dispersion comprising vegetable oils

[0124] The stability of a composition of the invention was evaluated, compared to the same composition without spherical cellulose (comparative without cellulose) and to the same composition without cellulosic polymer (comparative without cellulosic polymer).

[0125] A comparative composition without caboxyvinyl polymer (Pemulen TR2) was also evaluated.

[0126] [Tables2] Ingredients Invention (with spherical cellulose, ethylcellulose carboxyvinyl polymer, and xanthan gum) Comparison without ethylcellulose Comparison without spherical cellulose Comparison without carboxyvinyl polymer and xanthan gum (gelling system) A Water QsplOO QsplOO QsplOO QsplOO Glycerin 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Polyols 6.3 6.3 6.3 6.3 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLY MER (PEMULEN TR2) 0.18 0.18 0.18 Xanthan gum (RHODICARE XC) 0.1 0.1 0.1 - pH adjusters qs Qs qs qs Preservatives qs qs qs qs B Jojoba oil 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 Oil sunflower 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 Argan oil 0.009 0.009 0.009 0.009 Ethylcellulose Butylene glycol cocoate and stearylic alcohol 4.0 (including 0.1 ethylcellulose) - 0.1 0.1 (Emulfree CBG MB) Perfumes qs qs qs qs c Spherical cellulose (Cellulobeads D5) 1.0 1.0 - -

[0127]

[0128]

[0129]

[0130]

[0131]

[0132]

[0133]

[0134] The compositions were prepared according to the following protocol: Aqueous phase - The ingredients of the aqueous phase (A) are mixed and heated to 70°C; - The preservative is added and the mixture is left under stirring until perfect solubilization; - The formula is cooled to 50°C; - hydrophilic gelling agents (carboxyvinyl polymer, xanthan gum) are incorporated under agitation, and the mixture is left under agitation until no gel grains are present; - Glycols are added and the mixture is allowed to return to room temperature; Fatty phase - the oils and perfumes are homogenized with ultra turax until perfectly homogenized; - Emulfree CBG MB (ethylcellulose, Butylene glycol cocoate and stearylic alcohol) is added to the oil phase under Rayneri stirring with a deflocculating blade; - Agitation is maintained for 5 minutes. The oil phase is added to the aqueous phase under vigorous stirring. The agitation is then reduced and the spherical cellulose is then added. The compositions are evaluated for their stability at T24h and 2 weeks later, at 50°C. The evaluation consists of observing under a microscope the size and homogeneity of the oil droplets dispersed in the aqueous phase. The results are presented in the following table and figures.

[0135] [Tables3] Evaluation of Invention (with spherical cellulose and ethylcellulose) Comparison without ethylcellulose Comparison without spherical cellulose Comparison without carboxyvinyl polymer or xanthan gum (gelling system) AT24h 25°C Small droplets and homogeneous dispersion Presence of larger droplets after 24h Presence of larger droplets after 24h NA AT2 weeks 50°C Stable Small droplets and homogeneous dispersion Presence of larger droplets Presence of larger droplets NA Stability +++ + / - + / - NA

[0136] NA: not applicable. The emulsion broke at T0.

[0137] These results show that the association according to the invention of a cellulose polymer, a cellulose powder, and a hydrophilic gelling system comprising a polysaccharide gum and a carboxyvinyl polymer, in an oil-in-water dispersion comprising one or more vegetable oils consisting essentially of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated hydrocarbons, makes it possible to obtain a stable composition, with small droplets and a homogeneous dispersion, compared to the other compositions tested without one of the ingredients of the association according to the invention.

[0138] Example 2: Effect of other oils on the stability of the composition

[0139] Other oils (not part of the invention) have been tested at equivalent levels in the composition of the invention described above, compared to the vegetable oils of vegetable origin used in the composition of the invention: INCI name oil CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE (MIGLYOL 829 MB); INCI name SQUALANE oil (NEOSSANCE SQUALANE, hemi-squalane); INCI name oil COCOGLYCERIDES (MYRITOL 331 MB).

[0140] Therefore, in the composition described in example 1, the vegetable oils have been replaced by an equivalent content (8%) of each of the above oils.

[0141] The stability and sensory properties of the compositions thus prepared were evaluated.

[0142] Stability is evaluated as described in Example 1.

[0143] The sensory experience is evaluated by a panel of experts after application of the composition to the face. A softness and lightness upon application are sought.

[0144] The results are presented in the table below:

[0145] [Tables4] Tested Formulas Composition of the invention with vegetable oils Composition with CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE Composition with SQUALANE Composition with COCO-GLYCERIDES Stability Stable Stable Not stable Stable Sensory Experience Soft and light upon application Nourishing Loss of sensory experience / greasy effect / film-forming NA / greasy effect / film-forming Loss of sensory experience / greasy effect / film-forming

[0146] NA: Not applicable

[0147] These results show the importance of vegetable oils consisting essentially of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated hydrocarbons according to the invention on the stability and sensory quality of the composition, compared to other oils.

[0148] Example 3: Effect of other powders on the stability of the composition

[0149] Other powders (not part of the invention) have been tested at equivalent content in the composition of the invention described in Example 1, compared to the spherical cellulose used in the composition of the invention: - lauroyl lysine (Amihope LL) silica (MSS 500) - tapioca powder

[0150] In the composition described in example 1, the cellulose powder has therefore been replaced by an equivalent content (1%) of each of the above powders.

[0151] The stability and sensory qualities of the prepared compositions were evaluated and the results are presented below:

[0152] [Tables5] Tested Formulas Composition of the invention with cellulose Composition with lauroyl lysine Composition with silica Composition with tapioca Stability Stable Stable Stable Stable Sensory Experience Soft and light upon application Nourishing Loss of sensory experience / greasy / film-forming effect Loss of sensory experience / greasy / film-forming effect Loss of sensory experience / greasy / film-forming effect

[0153] These results show the importance of spherical cellulose on the stability and sensoriality of the composition, compared to other powders. Example 3: Formulations Skincare serum

[0154] [Tableauxô] Ingredients % A Water QsplOO Glycerin 5.0 Polyols 6 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (PEMULEN TR2) 0.5 Xanthan Gum (RHODICARE XC) 0.1 pH Adjusters qs Preservatives qs B Jojoba Oil 3.0 Sunflower Oil 3.0 Argan Oil 1 Ethylcellulose Butylene glycol cocoate and stearylic alcohol (Emulfree CB G MB) 4.0 (of which 0.1 ethylcellulose) Perfumes qs C Spherical Cellulose (Cellulobeads D5) 1.0

[0155] The composition is prepared according to the protocol described in example 1.

[0156] The composition is stable (homogeneous dispersion of small oil droplets in the aqueous phase).

[0157] The texture is light upon application but proves to be very rich and nourishing for the skin.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: one or more vegetable oils consisting essentially of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated hydrocarbons, a cellulose polymer, a cellulose powder, and a hydrophilic gelling system comprising a polysaccharide gum and a carboxyvinyl polymer, characterized in that the total content of vegetable oil(s) consisting essentially of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated hydrocarbons in the composition ranges from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the vegetable oils are vegetable oils of natural origin, in particular selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, grapeseed oil, pumpkin seed oil, virgin sweet almond oil, olive oil, meadowfoam (Limnanthes alba) oil, virgin rosehip oil, camelina oil, borage oil, black cumin oil, perilla oil, and mixtures thereof, in particular sunflower oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, grapeseed oil, and other oils. pumpkin seeds, and mixtures thereof, preferably sunflower oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the cellulose polymer is a nonionic cellulose ether, in particular selected from alkylcelluloses and preferably ethylcellulose.

4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the composition comprises ethylcellulose, isostearyl alcohol and butylene glycol cocoate.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide gum is selected from the group consisting of xanthan gums, scleroglucan gums, carrageenan gums, agar gums, guar gums, gellan gums, and mixtures thereof, preferably xanthan gums.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymer is selected from the group consisting of: copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and at least one monomer of the alkyl (C10-C30) ester type of unsaturated carboxylic acid, sodium polyacrylates, crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium: One or more natural vegetable oils selected from sunflower oil, jojoba oil, argan oil and mixtures thereof, in a content of 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, Ethylcellulose, Cellulose powder, Xanthan gum and an acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a content less than or equal to 1% by weight of surfactant(s) relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably is devoid of surfactant.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a face cream or serum, preferably a serum.

10. Cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.