Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of alkyl polyglucosides
A combination of C9-C14 and C6-C8 alkyl polyglucosides with C2-C6 alkylene glycol in cosmetic compositions ensures clarity and odor retention, addressing the challenges of maintaining visual and sensory properties with perfuming substances, while being environmentally friendly.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2021014062
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-12-21
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-10
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-12-21
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions for cleaning and caring for keratin materials face challenges in maintaining clarity and organoleptic properties, particularly when containing perfuming substances, while being environmentally friendly and avoiding harmful ingredients like sulfates and non-biodegradable surfactants.
A composition comprising a specific ratio of C9-C14 alkyl polyglucosides and C6-C8 alkyl polyglucosides, combined with C2-C6 alkylene glycol, which solubilizes perfuming substances up to 1% by weight, maintaining clarity and odor over time.
The composition achieves a clear and homogeneous appearance with preserved organoleptic properties, suitable for keratin materials, while being natural and environmentally friendly.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of alkyl polyglucosides Technical field
[0001] The present invention aims to propose a new composition, preferably cosmetic, in particular perfumed, for the field of care and / or hygiene of keratin materials, in particular of the skin of the face and / or body or hair.
[0002] It aims more particularly to propose a cleaning product for keratin materials, preferably a shower gel or a facial cleansing product, natural and capable of solubilizing one or more perfumed substances while retaining a clear appearance and organoleptic properties, in particular an odor, acceptable to users. Prior art
[0003] Generally speaking, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products is becoming an important issue in order to satisfy new consumer expectations, in particular those of natural and / or eco-designed products, i.e. products whose design and development take environmental impacts into account.
[0004] In this respect, consumers and formulators of cosmetic compositions are keen to free themselves as much as possible from so-called "chemical" products in favour of so-called "natural" products which are advantageously non-persistent in the environment, to limit the number of ingredients in these compositions, but also to favour the processes for preparing these compositions which require the least energy.
[0005] As cosmetic products, cleaning products for keratinous materials, such as skin and hair, are very important for removing oily residues, such as excess sebum or remains of cosmetic products used daily, which accumulate in the skin folds and are responsible in particular for the obstruction of the pores of the skin.
[0006] Thus, the use of detergent cosmetic compositions, for example of the shampoo or shower gel type, based essentially on surfactants, is common. These compositions are generally applied to keratin materials, preferably wet, and the foam generated by massage or friction with the hands or a washcloth allows, after rinsing with water, the elimination of various dirt initially present on the hair or skin.
[0007] In particular, it is common to introduce into cosmetic compositions cleaning of keratin materials with anionic surfactants, particularly of the sulfate type, which are very good detergent surfactants.
[0008] Nevertheless, sulfates can be unfriendly to the keratin materials to be washed, in particular by having a drying effect on said materials, or even by negatively impacting the conditioning of the hair or skin, especially in certain sensitive consumers. The alteration of the cosmetic properties of the hair or skin thus leads to combining sulfates with conditioning agents such as cationic polymers, silicones or non-silicone oils.
[0009] It is also well known that cosmetic cleansing compositions may contain a certain level of non-ionic surfactant(s), for example, non-biodegradable surfactants based on polyethylene glycol (PEG). Furthermore, depending on the method of preparation, PEG may be contaminated with measurable amounts of 1,4-dioxane which may persist in the environment for a long time, due to its difficult decomposition. Furthermore, 1,4-dioxane is a regulated chemical substance due to its suspected toxicity.
[0010] Cleaning compositions comprising at least one polyalkyl-glucoside surfactant have already been proposed, in particular because these surfactants are derived from renewable raw materials and are biodegradable, for example in document EP 2 217 203.
[0011] Furthermore, it has been envisaged to propose cosmetic compositions having a novel visual appearance, namely compositions that are particularly clear, or even transparent. Indeed, a clear and transparent cleansing cosmetic composition is generally associated by consumers with freshness, softness, purity, cooling, cleanliness, etc. Transparent products are therefore used for a variety of personal care applications. Furthermore, a transparent product, when packaged in transparent packaging, allows consumers to see the entire product.
[0012] An example of a transparent cleaning composition is described in document FR 3 106 753, and comprises a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants and from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight of at least one diol with a C3-C6 hydrocarbon chain.
[0013] However, the introduction of perfuming substances, in particular in contents greater than or equal to 1% by weight, has a negative impact on the clarity of the cosmetic compositions containing them, in particular in the presence of very hydrophilic surfactants. Statement of the invention
[0014] Thus, there remains a need to have clear cosmetic compositions, intended for cleaning and / or caring for keratin materials, not comprising of controversial ingredients and which may contain one or more perfume substances, in particular in contents greater than or equal to 1% by weight.
[0015] In particular, there is a need to have such compositions whose clear appearance and organoleptic properties, in particular in terms of odor, are preserved over time.
[0016] Furthermore, there is a need to have compositions for cleaning keratin materials, in particular of the shower gel type, which are natural and clear, having improved sensory properties, in particular in terms of softness.
[0017] Finally, there also remains a need to have compositions compatible with current consumer requirements, particularly from an environmental point of view.
[0018] The present invention aims precisely to meet these needs. Summary of the invention
[0019] Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in particular perfumed, comprising at least: a) at least one C9-C[4]alkyl polyglucoside; b) at least one C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside; and c) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol, the weight ratio a) C9-C[4] alkyl polyglucoside to b) C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1.
[0020] In the remainder of the text, the term “alkylpolyglucosides according to the invention” will be used more simply to designate the combination of at least one C9-C[4] alkyl polyglucoside and at least one C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside whose weight ratio is strictly greater than 1.
[0021] The inventors have found, surprisingly, that the combination of alkylpolyglucosides according to the invention and at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol makes it possible to obtain a clear and homogeneous cosmetic cleaning composition, even in the presence of a content of perfume substances greater than 1% by weight, which retains its visual appearance and its organoleptic properties over time, in particular whose clear appearance and odor, in particular the perfumed notes, do not deteriorate over time, in particular for a period of up to several months.
[0022] Decylglucoside, caprylyl glucoside and propylene glycol have already been proposed in combination in skin cleansing compositions. However, these compositions do not have a clear visual appearance, which is precisely what is sought in the present application.
[0023] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the use a) of at least one C9-C[4] alkyl polyglucoside; b) of at least one C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside; and c) of at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol; the weight ratio of a) C9-C[4] alkyl polyglucoside to b) C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1, as solubilizing agents for at least one perfuming substance in a composition, preferably in a cosmetic composition, said perfuming substance being in particular present in a content greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0024] For the purposes of the present invention, a “solubilizer” is intended to designate a compound making it possible to formulate a composition retaining its visual and organoleptic properties, in particular remaining clear or even transparent and retaining a pleasant odor for the consumer, in the presence of one or more perfuming substances, in particular present in the composition in a content greater than or equal to 1%, in particular in a content ranging from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0025] A composition according to the invention is suitable for topical administration, that is to say for application to the surface of keratin materials.
[0026] Thus, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or hygiene, in particular cleaning, of keratin materials comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.
[0027] In particular, a composition according to the invention is suitable for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratin materials, and as such can be in the form of a shower gel, a liquid or solid soap, etc.
[0028] Thus, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleaning keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials, optionally in the presence of water, and optionally followed by a step of rinsing said composition, in particular with water.
[0029] It is understood that the cosmetic treatment methods referred to in the present application are non-therapeutic.
[0030] In the context of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated, the definitions below apply.
[0031] By "keratin materials" is meant, according to the invention, the skin of the body, face and / or eye contour, lips, nails, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, beard, scalp and / or hair, or any other skin area of the body. More particularly, the keratin materials according to the invention are the scalp, hair and / or skin.
[0032] By "the skin" is meant the entire skin of the body, and preferably, the skin of the face, décolleté, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably, the skin of the face, in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin, and eye contour.
[0033] The compositions according to the present invention are preferably cosmetic compositions. By "cosmetic" in the sense of the present invention, is meant a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and appendages.
[0034] By "clear" in the sense of the present invention, it is meant that the composition lets light pass through and objects behind it appear clearly. In particular, it is transparent.
[0035] The transparency of the composition can be characterized using a 250 mL beaker into which the composition is introduced. The beaker is placed in a light box, for example of the Basic Color Viewing Light type from Just Normlicht. The composition is illuminated by a light simulating daylight or the light usually encountered in a store, for example in a supermarket. An object, such as a pen, or the hand is placed behind it at a distance of 0 to 3 cm; and by placing the eyes at a distance of between 20 cm and 40 cm, such as 30 cm, and perpendicular to the middle of the composition of said beaker, it is evaluated whether the object or the hand can be clearly distinguished through the composition in said beaker. Alternatively, it is directly evaluated whether the light source can be distinguished through the composition in the beaker.
[0036] Preferably, the transparency of the composition can be characterized by measuring its turbidity, using a Hach 2100Q portable turbidimeter at 25°C. The lower the turbidity value, expressed in NTU units, the clearer the composition.
[0037] Preferably, the turbidity of the compositions according to the invention, measured at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, is less than 400 NTU units, more preferably between 1 and 250 NTU units, even better between 3 and 200 NTU units.
[0038] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “natural” is understood to mean a compound or extract obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as, for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration, or derived from a biotechnological process, in particular from cell or microbiological cultures, for example, fungi or bacteria. So-called “natural” compounds include compounds that are present in nature and that can be reproduced by chemical (semi)synthesis.
[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “of natural origin” means any compound obtained from a natural substance which has undergone one or more treatments. chemical or industrial ancillary processes, resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this substance. As a non-limiting example of chemical or industrial ancillary processing resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, we can mention those authorized by control organizations such as Ecocert (Reference for organic and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine", 2005, vol. 120, 9:10.
[0040] According to the invention, a compound is considered to be natural or of natural origin when it is predominantly composed of natural constituents, that is to say when the weight ratio of the natural constituents to the non-natural constituents which compose it is greater than 1.
[0041] By "perfumed composition" or "perfuming composition" within the meaning of the present invention, is meant any composition which leaves a perfume after application to keratin materials.
[0042] A perfume is the result of a combination of different odorous substances, each providing a specific diffusing odor or “note” and evaporating respectively at different times. More precisely, each perfume has what is called a “top note” which is the odor diffused first when the perfume is applied or when the container containing it is opened, a “heart or body note” which corresponds to the complete perfume (emission for a few hours after the “top note”) and a “base note” which is the most persistent odor (emission for several hours after the “heart note”). The persistence of the base note corresponds to the remanence of the perfume.
[0043] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for application to keratin materials, in particular topical application to the skin, and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.
[0044] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying this composition.
[0045] A “(Cx-Cz)alkyl” or “Cx-Cz alkyl” group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising from x to z carbon atoms. For example, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0046] A “(Cx-Cz)alkylene” or “Cx-Cz alkylene” group is a divalent group derived from a (Cx-Cz)alkyl group.
[0047] The expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more”.
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[0059] The expressions "between ... and ...", "includes from ... to ...", "formed from ... to ...", and "ranging from ... to ..." must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified. Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and examples which follow. Detailed description A composition, preferably cosmetic, according to the invention comprises a combination of at least two specific polyalkylglucosides, namely at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside and at least one C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside. Alkyl polyglucosides, or alkylpolyglucosides (APGs), are known as non-ionic surfactants. These are compounds whose chemical structure is generally represented as follows: [Chem.l] The hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprises from 1 to 4 saccharide units and the hydrophobic group (alkyl) may comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. The alkyl group may be linear as shown above or branched. C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside. Preferably, the C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside comprises 1, 2 to 3 saccharide units. It can be a single C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside or a mixture of several C9-C14 alkyl polyglucosides. Preferably, it is a mixture of several C9-CM alkyl polyglucosides, in particular comprising at least one C10 alkyl polyglucoside, at least one C12 alkyl polyglucoside and at least one C14 alkyl polyglucoside. The C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 8% by weight, such as from 4.5% to 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside
[0060] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside.
[0061] Preferably, the C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside comprises 1, 2 to 3 saccharide units.
[0062] The alkyl group, linear or branched, comprises between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 carbon atoms.
[0063] It may be a single C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside or a mixture of several C6-C8 alkyl polyglucosides. In particular, the C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside comprises at least one C8 alkyl polyglucoside.
[0064] The C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 4%, such as from 3% to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0065] As C9-C14 and / or C6-C8 alkyl polyglucosides which are particularly suitable for the invention, the following may be mentioned: - caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 810 UP® by BASF, or under the name ORAMIX CG 110® by Seppic; and - decylglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10® by the company Kao Chemicals, under the name PLANTAREN 2000 UP® by the company BASF, or under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company Seppic.
[0066] As mentioned previously, the alkylpolyglucosides are present in a composition according to the invention in contents making it possible to obtain a weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1, particularly greater than 1.2, more particularly greater than 1.3. It is understood that the weight ratios of the invention are calculated as active material.
[0067] Advantageously, the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside is between 1.1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 5, more particularly between 1 and 2.
[0068] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, as alkylpolyglucosides, a mixture of decyl glucoside and caprylyl / capryl glucoside.
[0069] Thus, the present invention relates, according to one of its aspects, to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in particular perfumed, comprising at least: (i) decyl glucoside; ii) caprylyl / capryl glucoside; And iii) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol; the weight ratio i) decyl glucoside to ii) caprylyl / capryl glucoside being strictly greater than 1, particularly greater than 1.2. It is understood that the weight ratios of the invention are calculated as active material. More particularly the ratio i) / ii) is between 1.1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 5, more particularly between 1 and 2.
[0070] The present invention also relates, according to one of its aspects, to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in particular perfumed, comprising at least:
[0071] i) at least one C8 alkyl polyglucoside; ii) at least one C10 alkyl polyglucoside; and iii) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol; the weight ratio i) C8 alkyl polyglucoside / ii) C10 alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1, particularly greater than 1.1. C2-C6 alkylene glycol
[0072] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol.
[0073] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “glycol” is intended to denote a diol in which the two hydroxyl groups are carried by different carbon atoms, preferably by vicinal carbon atoms.
[0074] Examples of alkylene glycols suitable for the invention that may be cited are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0075] Preferably, the C2-C6 alkylene glycol is chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably is propylene glycol.
[0076] As a propylene glycol particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the product marketed under the name 1,2-PROPYLENEGLYCOL CARE by the company BASF.
[0077] The alkylene glycol(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Perfume substance
[0078] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention is more particularly a perfumed composition.
[0079] A composition according to the invention therefore preferably comprises at least one perfuming substance.
[0080] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “perfuming substance” is understood to mean any perfume, any odorous raw material or aroma capable of releasing a pleasant odor, in particular as defined in the remainder of the text. “Perfuming”, “odorous” or “odoriferous” substances are synonymous for the purposes of the present invention.
[0081] Perfumes are compositions containing in particular the raw materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, NJ, 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, NJ, 1960) and in “Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991”, Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, 111.
[0082] A perfumed composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one perfuming substance chosen from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and their mixtures.
[0083] These may be natural products, such as essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes, and / or synthetic products, such as terpene or sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles, peroxides, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic.
[0084] According to the definition given in the international standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is an odorous product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation, or by dry distillation, or by an appropriate mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process which does not result in a significant change in the composition.
[0085] The choice of method for obtaining essential oils depends mainly on the raw material: its original state and its characteristics, its nature itself. The “essential oil / plant raw material” yield can be extremely variable depending on the plants: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice determines the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, color, solubility, volatility, enrichment or depletion in certain constituents.
[0086] Steam distillation corresponds to the vaporization in the presence of water vapor of a substance that is poorly miscible with water. The raw material is placed in the presence of boiling water or water vapor in a still. The water vapor entrains the essential oil vapor which is condensed in the condenser to be recovered in liquid phase in a Florentine vase (or essencier) where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The aqueous distillate that remains after steam distillation, once the separation of the essential oil has been carried out, is called "aromatic water" or "hydrosol" or "floral distilled water".
[0087] Obtaining by dry distillation consists of obtaining the essential oil by distillation of wood, bark or roots, without adding water or water vapor in a closed enclosure designed so that the liquid is recovered in its lower part. Cade oil constitutes the best known example of this method of obtaining.
[0088] The method of obtaining by cold expression only applies to citrus fruits (Citrus spp) by mechanical processes at room temperature. The principle of the method is as follows: the zests are shredded and the contents of the secretory pockets which have been broken are recovered by a physical process. The classic process consists of exerting an abrasive action under a stream of water on the entire surface of the fruit. After elimination of solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial installations in fact allow the simultaneous or sequential recovery of fruit juices and essential oil.
[0089] Essential oils are generally volatile and liquid at room temperature, which differentiates them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most of them deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in common organic solvents, entrainable by water vapor, very slightly soluble in water.
[0090] Among the essential oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families: Abietaceae or Pinaceae, for example conifers; Amaryllidaceae; Anacardiaceae; Anonaceae, for example ylang; Apiaceae, for example umbellifers, in particular dill, angenic, coriander, fennel, carrot or parsley; Araceae; Aristolochiaceae; Asteraceae for example yarrow, mugwort, chamomile, and helichrysum; Betulaceae; Brassicaceae; Burseraceae, for example frankincense; Caryophyllaceae; Canellaceae; Caesalpiniaceae for example copaifera (copahu); Chenopodaceae; Cistaceae for example cistus; Cyperaceae; Dipterocarpaceae; Ericaceae e.g. wintergreen; Euphorbiaceae; Fabaceae; Geraniaceae e.g. geranium; Guttiferae; Hamamelidaceae; Hernandiaceae; Hypericaceae e.g. St. John's wort; Iridaceae; Juglandaceae;Lamiaceae, e.g. thyme, oregano, bee balm, savory, basil, marjorams, mints, patchouli, lavenders, sages, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, lemon balm, rosemary; Lauraceae, e.g. ravensara, bay, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea; Liliaceae, e.g. garlic; Magnoliaceae, e.g. magnolia; Malvaceae; Meliaceae; Monimiaceae; Moraceae, for example hemp, or hops; Myricaceae; Mysristicaceae, for example nutmeg; Myrtaceae, for example eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backousia, clove, myrtle; Oleaceae; Piperaceae, for example pepper; Pittosporaceae; Poaceae, for example e.g. lemongrass, lemongrass, vetiver; Polygonaceae; Ranunculaceae; Rosaceae, e.g. roses; Rubiaceae; Rutaceae, e.g. all citrus; Salicaceae; Santalaceae, e.g. sandalwood; Saxifragaceae; Schisandraceae; Styracaceae, e.g. benzoin; Thymelaceae, e.g. agarwood; Tilliaceae; Valerianaceae, e.g. valerian, spikenard; Verbenaceae, e.g. lantana, verbena; Violaceae; Zingiberaceae, e.g. galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger; Zygophyllaceae.
[0091] Mention may also be made of essential oils extracted from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli), stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petitgrain), fruits (coriander, anise, cumin, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, sweet flag, ginger), wood (pine wood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, rose cedar, camphor), herbs and grasses (tarragon, rosemary, basil, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, frankincense, opopanax).
[0092] Examples of perfuming substances include: geraniol, geranyl acetate, famesol, borneol, bomyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinalool, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, di-hydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzoate benzyl, amyl salicylate, dimethylbenzyl carbinol, trichloromethylphenylcarbinyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, isononyl acetate, vetiveryl acetate, vetiverol, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2-methyl-3-(p-tert-butylphenyl)propanal,2-methyl-3-(p-isopropylphenyl)propanal, 3-(p-tert-butylphenyl)propanal, 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-enyl-carboxaldehyde, tricyclodecenyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionate, 4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-(4-methyl 1-3-penteny 1)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyl-tetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl-2-pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-4-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, menthone, carvone, tagetone, geranyl acetone, n-decanal, n-dodecanal, 9-decenol-l, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal, phenylacetaldehyde diethylacetal, geranonitrile, citronellonitrile, cedryl acetate, 3-isocamphylcyclohexanol, cedryl methyl ether, isolongifolanone, hawthornonitrile, hawthorn, heliotropin, coumarin, eugenol, vanillin, , diphenyl ether, citral, citronellal, hydroxycitronellal, damascone, ionones, methylionones, isomethylionones, solanone, irones, cis-3-hexenol and its esters, musk indans, musk tetralins, musk isochromans, macrocyclic ketones, musk macrolactones, aliphatic musks, ethylene brassylate and mixtures thereof.
[0093] A perfumed composition according to the invention preferably comprises a perfuming substance chosen from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
[0094] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of different perfuming substances is used which together generate a pleasant note for the user.
[0095] Thus, a composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise a mixture of perfuming substances, in particular of at least two distinct perfuming substances.
[0096] The perfuming substances will preferably be chosen so that they produce notes (head, heart and base) in the following families: citrus, aromatic, floral notes, particularly pink flowers and white flowers, spicy, woody, gourmand, chypre, fern, leather, oriental and musk.
[0097] These are in particular perfume substances producing notes (top, heart and base) chosen from: grapefruit, fig tree, musks, blackcurrant bud, rose, patchouli, benzoin, blond wood, vanilla, cedar wood, vetiver, tonka bean, orange, sandalwood, geranium, clementine, juniper berry, jasmine, osmanthus and freesia.
[0098] For obvious reasons, the quantity of perfuming substance(s) present in a composition according to the invention is likely to vary significantly with regard to the odor or odor intensity sought by its presence.
[0099] By way of illustration, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, particularly from 0.001% to 8.0% by weight, more particularly from 0.01% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4.0% by weight of perfuming substance(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0100] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention retains its visual appearance, in particular remains clear, in the presence of contents of perfuming substances greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0101] Thus, a composition according to the invention may particularly comprise from 1.0% to 10% by weight of perfuming substances, more particularly from 1.0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 4.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0102] The perfuming substances can be introduced into a composition conforming to the invention in the form of a perfume concentrate.
[0103] The perfume concentrate can be a concrete or an absolute, preferably an absolute.
[0104] A composition according to the invention generally comprises at least one aqueous phase and / or at least one oily phase, constituting a cosmetically acceptable medium for incorporating the combination of alkylpolyglucosides according to the invention, the C2-C6 alkylene glycol(s) and optionally one or more perfuming substances, and thus forming a composition, preferably cosmetic, according to the invention.
[0105] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase, even more preferably is an aqueous composition, that is to say that it comprises a content of fatty substances, in particular of oil(s), less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 4% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase
[0106] The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
[0107] In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
[0108] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.
[0109] Among the water-soluble solvents which may be used in a composition in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, C2-C32 polyols other than the C2-C6 alkylene glycol required according to the invention, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
[0110] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0111] A polyol suitable for the invention may be a compound of alkyl type, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, carrying on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at least four -OH functions.
[0112] The polyols advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0113] Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
[0114] According to a particular embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.
[0115] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 45% to 80% by weight, preferably from 50% to 75% by weight, of aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0116] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase
[0117] When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, the latter preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.
[0118] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
[0119] An oily phase suitable for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0120] The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0121] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. Oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin are preferred.
[0122] By “non-volatile” is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
[0123] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
[0124] The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
[0125] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.
[0126] The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
[0127] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
[0128] Preferably, the oils suitable for the invention are natural.
[0129] Advantageously, the fatty substance(s) suitable for the invention are a mixture of C9-Ci2 alkanes, preferably of natural origin, the chains of which comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched C9-Ci2 alkanes. This mixture is known in particular under the INCI name C9-Ci2 ALKANE, CAS 68608-12-8, VEGELIGHT SILK® marketed by BioSynthls. This mixture of biodegradable volatile oils can be obtained from coconut oil (viscosity of 0.9 to 1.1 mm2 / s at 40°C and a flash point at 65°C).
[0130] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention only contains oils that are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.
[0131] advantageously still, a composition contains at least 80% by weight of oils which are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, hydrocarbon-based, preferably volatile, more preferably chosen from isodecane, decane, Cetiol UT®, VEGELIGHT SILK®, and their mixtures. Thickening
[0132] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one thickener, also sometimes called gelling agent or viscosity modifying agent.
[0133] In particular, the thickener(s) may be chosen according to the viscosity desired for the composition, in particular in order to provide the composition with a gel-type texture. They are therefore more particularly advantageous for the formulation of compositions in the form of gels, such as shower gels.
[0134] Thickeners may be synthetic, natural or of natural origin, preferably natural or of natural origin.
[0135] Such thickeners may more particularly be chosen from natural polymers or polymers of natural origin, in particular of plant origin.
[0136] These gelling agents are preferably hydrophilic, that is to say soluble or dispersible in water.
[0137] Advantageously, the thickener(s) are chosen from polysaccharides, modified or native, in particular modified or unmodified starches, fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabi- noxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, sclerotium gum, Tragacanth gum, Ghatti gum, Karaya gum, carob bean gum, konjac gum, galacto-mannans such as guar gum and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopoly-saccharides, and mixtures thereof.
[0138] According to one embodiment of the invention, the thickener(s) may be chosen from alginates, in particular sodium, potassium or ammonium, carrageenans, modified or unmodified starches, in particular those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, gum arabic, in particular acacia gum or gum arabic from the Acacia Senegal tree, xanthan gum, cellulose modified by esterification, etherification, in particular carboxymethylcellulose or cellulose gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0139] Advantageously, the thickener(s) suitable for the invention are chosen from xanthan gum, acacia gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0140] According to one embodiment, the thickener is a xanthan gum. Xanthan gum advantageously makes it possible to obtain a composition having optimal clarity, while allowing good thickening of the composition containing it.
[0141] According to another embodiment, the thickener is a mixture of xanthan gum and acacia gum, in particular in a xanthan gum / acacia gum mass ratio ranging from 0.5 to 1.5, in particular from 1.0 to 1.5.
[0142] The thickener(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.3% to 4.0% by weight, more particularly from 0.4% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0143] A composition according to the invention may have a viscosity, measured at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 0.01 Pa.s to 3.0 Pa.s.
[0144] Viscosity can be measured using a Rheomat RM180® rheometer, at a rotation speed of 200 for 10 minutes. The value obtained in deflection units (DU) is then converted to Pa.s. Additional surfactants
[0145] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional surfactant, distinct from the alkylpolyglucosides required according to the invention.
[0146] The surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made to to the document “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, K1RK-0THMER”, volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants. Amphoteric surfactant
[0147] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant.
[0148] Examples of amphoteric surfactants suitable for the invention are in particular chosen from betaines, preferably chosen from alkyl betaines, in particular lauryl betaine; N-alkylamido betaines and their derivatives, in particular co-camidopropylbetaine, lauramidopropylbetaine and N-carboxyethoxyethyl N-cocoylamidoethyl aminoacetate N-disodium; sultaines, in particular cocoyl amidopropylhydroxy sultaine; and mixtures thereof.
[0149] Among the amphoteric surfactants mentioned above, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, such as coco-betaine (also called cocoyl betaine), N-alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof are preferably used.
[0150] More preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is coco-betaine.
[0151] The amphoteric surfactant(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic surfactant
[0152] The nonionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, in particular sucrose alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, geminal surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0153] Preferably, a composition according to the invention does not comprise a non-ionic surfactant other than the alkyl polyglucosides required according to the invention. Anionic surfactant
[0154] The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of Cio-C3o fatty acids, in particular C16-C25, in par- particularly metal stearates and behenates and their mixtures.
[0155] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a content of sulfate-type surfactant(s) of less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is free of sulfate-type surfactant.
[0156] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises a content of anionic surfactant(s) less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is free of anionic surfactant. Cationic surfactant
[0157] The cationic surfactants may be chosen from alkylimidazolidiniums, such as isostearylethylimidonium ethosulfate, ammonium salts, such as (C12-30 alkyl)-tri(C14-30 alkyl)ammonium halides such as N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosaminium chloride (or Behentrimonium chloride). Silicone surfactant
[0158] The composition may also comprise at least one silicone surfactant. By way of example, non-ionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture, may be mentioned, dimethicone copolyol or di-methicone copolyol benzoate, and non-ionic surfactants with an HLB less than 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture, the mixture of cyclomethicone / di-methicone copolyol.
[0159] The additional surfactant(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention, in a proportion ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 1.0% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Conservatives
[0160] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one preservative.
[0161] By "preservative" or "preservative agent" is meant any cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable compound which makes it possible to prevent microbial (or microorganism) growth which may occur in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, from their design, through storage, to their conventional use by consumers. As a preservative, we can notably cite the preservatives described in Cosmetics, Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology. John Wiley & Sons, Inc. Martin M. Rieger; 5.2 preservatives & table 3, 04 / 12 / 2000, https: / / doi.org / 10.1002 / 0471238961.0315191318090507.a01.
[0162] Examples of preservatives suitable for carrying out the invention that may be cited are esters of parahydroxybenzoic acid also called Parabens (in particular methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde releasers such as, for example, imidazolidinyl urea or diazolidinyl urea, chlorhexidine digluconate, benzoates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, such as sodium benzoate, caprylyl glycol, iodo propynyl butyl carbamate, pentylene glycol, alkyl trimethylammonium bromide such as myristyl trimethylammonium bromide (CTFA name: Myrtrimonium bromide), dodecyl trimethylammonium bromide, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide, and mixtures thereof, more preferably benzoates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in particular of alkali metals, such as sodium benzoate.
[0163] The preservative(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and in particular ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight. pH adjuster
[0164] A composition according to the invention may have a pH of between 3 and 10, and preferably between 5 and 7, more particularly between 4.5 and 4.9. This pH may be adjusted using pH adjusting compounds, in particular acidifying agents and alkalizing agents, conventionally used in the cosmetic field.
[0165] Among the pH adjusters, mention may be made of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, optionally hydroxylated carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids. Among the alkalizing agents, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides, preferably carboxylic acids such as citric acid.
[0166] Adjusting the content of pH adjusters falls within the general skills of those skilled in the art, particularly with regard to the surfactants present in the composition.
[0167] A composition according to the invention may further contain one or more adjuvants usual in the cosmetic field such as anti-hair loss agents, oxidizing agents, vitamins and provitamins, sunscreens, coloring materials, pearlescent and opacifying agents, sequestering agents, plasticizing agents, antioxidant agents, hydroxy acids, fixing polymers, fillers, propellants, and their mixtures.
[0168] The quantities of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields considered.
[0169] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible compound(s) to be added to a composition according to the invention, in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.
[0170] As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention preferably does not contain controversial ingredients, in particular having a negative impact on the environment and / or health.
[0171] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of sulfates.
[0172] According to another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of 1,4 dioxane.
[0173] More preferably, it is free of sulfates and 1,4 dioxane.
[0174] By "exempt" for the purposes of the present invention, it is meant that the composition comprises less than 1.0% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, or even not comprising at all, the compound covered by the exemption.
[0175] More preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises, or even consists of: a) 0.5 to 10% by weight of at least one C9-C[4]alkyl polyglucoside; b) 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside; c) 6.0% to 35% by weight of at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol; (d) 0.1% to 4.0% by weight of at least one perfuming substance; (e) 1.0% to 25% by weight of at least one adjuvant chosen from thickeners, ancillary surfactants, preservatives, pH adjusters, and mixtures thereof; and (f) the remainder being water and / or a water-soluble solvent other than a C2-C6 alkylene glycol, the weight ratio a) C9-C[4] alkyl polyglucoside to b) C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1, in particular between 1.1 and 2.5, the contents being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition. Destination of the composition
[0176] As stated previously, a composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition, in particular a perfumed one, generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.
[0177] A composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms conventionally used in the cosmetic field according to the applications in- facial, especially for topical application.
[0178] In particular, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a gel, in particular in the form of a clear gel, preferably an aqueous gel.
[0179] A composition according to the invention can be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art for the formulation of cosmetic compositions for the care and / or hygiene of keratin materials, in particular of the shower gel type.
[0180] It is within the skill of a person skilled in the art to adapt the conditions for preparing a composition according to the invention.
[0181] A composition according to the invention can be used on all keratin materials, in particular as a hygiene product, for example as a product for cleaning and / or removing make-up from the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair, in particular as a product for cleaning and / or removing make-up from the skin.
[0182] It may be, for example, a cleansing or make-up removing cream, a shower or bath product, a shampoo and conditioner, a shaving product, a rinse-off mask, or even an exfoliating product (also called desquamating) for the face, the body or the hands, after the addition of exfoliating particles, preferably it is a shower or bath product, such as a shower gel.
[0183] A composition according to the invention is more particularly useful for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular from the skin, the scalp and / or the hair, more particularly from the skin.
[0184] The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic process for cleaning keratin materials comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention as defined above.
[0185] Typically, a composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or hair and then rinsed with water.
[0186] Thus, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic process for cleaning keratin materials comprising at least the steps of: (i) application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention as defined above; and (ii) rinsing the composition applied in step (i), in particular with water.
[0187] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed in mass percentage. Examples Measurement methods and evaluation
[0188] A first method of evaluating stability is carried out by observing the composition over time. To do this, the composition is introduced into a 250 mL beaker and placed in a light box, for example a Basic Color Viewing Light from Just Normlicht, illuminated by a light simulating daylight or the light normally encountered in stores and photographed before and after storage for 2 months at different temperatures: at 4 °C, at room temperature (around 20 °C), at 37 °C and at 45 °C.
[0189] Instability can be detected by evaluating release, creaming, coalescence, surface film formation, marbling, etc.
[0190] Variations in texture, appearance, color, and odor may also be assessed.
[0191] Another method of evaluating stability is carried out by measuring viscosity.
[0192] The measurement of the viscosity of the product is carried out with a Rheomat RM 100 viscometer from Lamy Rheology, according to method CID-012-02. The measurement of the torque required to overcome the resistance of the fluid whose viscosity is to be determined is carried out using an immersed element (mobile or measuring body) rotating at a chosen and constant speed (5 rpm). The measurement is carried out with a product to be analyzed - cup - measuring body assembly at 25°C.
[0193] The mobile used to take the measurements is chosen according to the viscosity of the product to be analyzed: - Ml: lotion; - M2: fluid milk; - M3: cream, thick milk; and / or - M4: thick cream, preferably M2 and M3.
[0194] The results are expressed in deviation units (DU). The standard deviation is ± 5 UD for viscosity values less than or equal to 50 UD and ± 7 UD for viscosity values greater than 50. Example 1
[0195] Compositions II to 14, according to the invention, are prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 1 below.
[0196] The values are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0197] [Tableauxl] Phase Ingredient (INCI name) II (Invention) 12 (Invention) 13 (Invention) 14 (Invention) A Aqua qsqsqsqs Sodium benzoate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 B Glycerin 10 10 10 10 Xanthan Gum 0.9 0.9 0.4 0.9 Acacia Senegal gum - 0.7 - - C Decylglucoside 53% aqueous solution 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0 Coco-betaine 10 10 10 10 D Propylene glycol 25 25 25 25 Caprylyl / capryl glucoside 50 / 50 to 60% aqueous solution 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 E Parfum'*! 1.5 - - 2.5 Perfume characterized by its grapefruit, fig and musk type notes; Perfume characterized by its notes of blackcurrant bud, rose, patchouli, benzoin, blond wood and vanilla; Perfume characterized by its notes of vanilla, cedarwood, vetiver and tonka bean: Perfume characterized by its notes of orange, sandalwood and geranium; Perfume characterized by its notes of clementine, juniper berry and vetiver; and Perfume characterized by its notes of rose, jasmine, patchouli, osmanthus and freesia. Preparation of the compositions
[0198] Weigh the ingredients of phase A and homogenize until the benzoate is dispersed under a turbine and paddles at a temperature between 20°C and 30°C.
[0199] Introduce the ingredients of phase B and stir until a homogeneous gel is obtained. The ingredients of phase D are mixed in the annex and introduced with stirring after checking that the xanthan is well dispersed. After homogenization, phase C is added and the pH is adjusted.
[0200] Optionally, introduce the perfume(s) from phase E and homogenize at a temperature between 20°C and 30°C.
[0201] Adjust the pH to a value between 4.5 and 4.9 if necessary, by adding citric acid or sodium hydroxide.
[0202] Compositions II to 14 according to the invention are clear and have a pleasant odor. These compositions retain their visual appearance and their organoleptic properties over time, in particular after 1 day to 6 months, more particularly after 1 week to 4 months at room temperature.
[0203] The compositions of the invention remain stable even after several months at room temperature.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, in particular perfumed, comprising at least: a) at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside; b) at least one C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside; and c) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol, the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1, the alkylene glycol(s) being present in a content ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition further comprising at least one thickener.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside is a mixture of several C9-C14 alkyl polyglucosides, in particular comprising at least one C10 alkyl polyglucoside, at least one C12 alkyl polyglucoside and at least one C14 alkyl polyglucoside.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 8% by weight, such as from 4.5% to 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside comprises at least one C8 alkyl polyglucoside.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 4%, such as from 3% to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the C2-C6 alkylene glycol is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably propylene glycol.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkylene glycol(s) are present in a content ranging from 6% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising at least one perfuming substance, preferably in a content ranging from 1.0% to 10% by weight of perfuming substances, more particularly from 1.0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 4.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one aqueous phase, in particular comprising water and optionally at least one polyol chosen from pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one thickener chosen from alginates, in particular sodium, potassium or ammonium, carrageenans, modified or unmodified starches, in particular those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, gum arabic, in particular acacia gum or gum arabic from the Acacia Senegal tree, xanthan gum, cellulose modified by esterification, etherification, in particular carboxymethylcellulose or cellulose gum, and mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional surfactant, distinct from the C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside and the C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside, in particular chosen from amphoteric surfactants, more preferably chosen from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, in particular coco-betaine, N-alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, in particular cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one preservative, in particular chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metal benzoates, more particularly sodium benzoate.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, being in the form of a gel, in particular a clear gel, preferably an aqueous gel.
14. Use of a) at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside; b) at least one C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside; and c) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol; the weight ratio a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside on b) C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1, as solubilizing agents of at least one perfuming substance in a composition, preferably in a cosmetic composition, said perfuming substance being in particular present in a content greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
15. Cosmetic process for cleaning keratin materials comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13.