Stable composition comprising at least one cationic polymer and at least one polymer chosen from starches grafted with a polyacrylic polymer
Stabilizing cationic polymers with anionic starch-acrylic polymers in cosmetic compositions addresses stability and sensory issues, ensuring smooth application and stability in skin care products.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2021013954
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-12-20
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-10
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-12-20
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions containing cationic polymers for skin care lack stability and sensory properties, leading to issues like phase separation, excessive gelling, and poor application spread, while maintaining a pleasant feel is desirable.
Incorporating anionic polymers, specifically starches grafted with acrylic polymers, stabilizes cationic polymers, enhancing composition stability and providing a smooth, non-sticky, and non-fluffing finish.
The compositions achieve stability and pleasant sensory properties, such as smoothness and slipperiness, without fluffing, while maintaining effective application to keratin materials.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Stable composition comprising at least one cationic polymer and at least one polymer chosen from starches grafted with a polyacrylic polymer Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular anti-aging care of keratin materials, in particular of the skin.
[0002] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to denote in particular the skin, the lips and / or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and preferably the skin of the body and / or the face, and more preferably of the face. Prior art
[0003] It is known to use certain combinations of cationic polymers with anionic polymers in the hair care field, in styling products which make it possible to obtain a lasting hold of the hairstyle, with styling effects persisting all day or even several days, while retaining a natural and non-set appearance to the hairstyle. Such an implementation of a combination of cationic polymers with anionic polymers is less widespread in the field of skin care and / or makeup. The use of cationic polymers in compositions intended for application to the skin may be of interest in particular for obtaining sensory properties of application of softness to the touch or improved application, in particular of sliding or spreading. In terms of desired sensations, one can in particular cite sensations of smoothness or non-roughness.However, the search for improved sensations should not be at the expense of stability of the composition. Statement of the invention
[0004] There therefore remains a need for a stable composition, comprising at least one cationic polymer, capable of being applied to keratin materials, in particular to the skin.
[0005] There also remains a need for a composition comprising at least one cationic polymer which can be used in particular in the cosmetic field, which does not exhibit instability, in particular rheological instability, whatever the galenic form of the composition, and which exhibits improved properties in terms of sensory properties and application to keratin materials.
[0006] The invention aims precisely to meet these needs. Summary of the invention
[0007] Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, comprising: (i) at least one cationic polymer, and (ii) at least one anionic polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer.
[0008] The inventors have found, surprisingly, that the compositions according to the invention make it possible to stabilize the cationic polymer by the presence of at least one anionic polymer chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer, optionally in association with other active agents.
[0009] Indeed, as is clear from the examples given below, the compositions according to the invention are stable, particularly from a rheological point of view.
[0010] Furthermore, it has been found that the compositions in accordance with the invention are stable while having organoleptic properties which are pleasant for the user, in particular they have a slippery or smooth or non-rough skin finish, do not stick (when the film is dry) and do not fluff or fluff very little.
[0011] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polymer” is understood to mean a compound comprising at least two repeating units, in particular at least five repeating units.
[0012] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "instability" of a composition refers to the separation of phases, in particular into 2 phases; an aqueous texture; excessive gelling of the cosmetic composition; pilling or formation of fluff and the inability to spread uniformly when applied to keratin materials.
[0013] A composition according to the invention is in particular used for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, and preferably for the care of keratin materials.
[0014] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of these aspects, to a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for, preferably caring for, keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.
[0015] Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become more apparent on reading the description and examples which follow. Detailed description
[0016] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer. Cationic polymers
[0017] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “cationic polymer” designates any non-silicone polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.
[0018] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between approximately 500 and 5106, preferably of between approximately 103 and 3106.
[0019] The cationic polymers according to the present invention can be chosen from:
[0020] - (i) quaternary ammonium salts, in particular of the following formula (I):
[0021] [Chem.l] (I)
[0022] in which the radicals R8 to RI 1, which may be identical or different, are aliphatic groups, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or aromatic groups such as aryl or alkyl-aryl groups, it being understood that at least one of the radicals R8 to RI 1 comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0023] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the radicals R8 to RI 1 comprises from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0024] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I), mention may be made, on the one hand, of tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, and on the other hand distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate.
[0025] According to a particular embodiment, mention is made of dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, as sold under the trade name Dehyquart F 30 by BASF (INCI name cetearyl alcohol (and) dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate);
[0026] - (ii) cationic guar gum derivatives, preferably qua ammonium ternary such as those described in U.S. Patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names Jaguar® C13 S, Jaguar® C 15, Jaguar® C 17 or Jaguar Excel by the company Rhodia (INCI name Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) or Jaguar® C 162 also by the company Rhodia (INCI name hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride);
[0027] - (iii) cationic cellulosic polymers. More particularly, the cationic cellulosic polymer Cationic lulosic is chosen from hydroxyethyl celluloses having reacted with a trimethyl ammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium epoxide (INCI name Polyquaternium-67), notably marketed by the company Dow under the trade name Softcat Polymer SL-100;
[0028] - (iv) vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylamino-acrylate or methacrylate copolymers quaternized or non-quaternized alkyl, such as the products sold under the name "Gafquat®" by the company ISP such as for example Gafquat® 734 or Gafquat® 755 or Gafquat® 755N (INCI name Polyquaternium-11) or the products called Copolymer® 845, 958 and 937 marketed by ISP (INCI name VP / dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer). These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573;
[0029] - (v) polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Ci-C4) salts trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked or non-crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (for example 20 / 80 by weight), in particular in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is notably marketed under the name "Salcare® SC 92" by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, crosslinked or not, in particular dispersed at approximately 50% by weight in mineral oil or in a liquid ester.These dispersions are marketed under the names "Salcare® SC 95" and "Salcare® SC 96" by the company Ciba; .
[0030] - (vi) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as that homopolymers or copolymers comprising as the main constituent of the chain units corresponding to the following formulas (II) and (III):
[0031] [Chem. 2] (CH .)k ---CRi2 XC(R^)-CH2-
[0032]
[0033] And [Chem. 3] (CH2)k C(R . )-CH I ' ' CH, N I R ' 10 (HI)|
[0034]
[0035]
[0036]
[0037]
[0038]
[0039] in which - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; - Rn denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; - R10 and Rn, independently of each other, denote a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or R10 and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group; - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium, for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company Nalco, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyl-dimethylammonium and acrylamide marketed in particular under the name "Merquat 550" or "Merquat 7SPR" or even "Merquat 550PR" (INCI name polyquaternium-7);
[0040] - (vü) oxyalkylenated polyamines
[0041] The oxyalkylenated polyamines of the invention are non-silicone compounds comprising from 2 to 20 amine functions and at least one oxyalkylenated group. By oxyalkylenated group is meant according to the invention a group of formula -O-CHR-(CH2)n-, in which R represents H or a C1-C5 alkyl and in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 6. As non-limiting examples of oxyalkylenated polyamines suitable for the invention, mention may be made of oxyalkylenated hydrocarbon amines which have two amine functions and in particular the compounds corresponding to formula (IV) or formula (V):
[0042] [Chem.4] RO(CH2>NM^ (IV)
[0043] in which
[0044] R denotes a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl radical,
[0045] n denotes a number ranging from 2 to 3, and
[0046] m denotes a number ranging from 2 to 5.
[0047] Among the oxyalkylenated polyamines which can be used in the present invention and which correspond to formula (IV), mention may be made, for example, of C12-15 alkyl oxypropyl-1,3-diaminopropane, such as, for example, tetradecyl oxypropyl-1,3-diaminopropane, isotridecyloxypropyl-1,3-diaminopropane, the latter being available under the name Tomamin DA-17 ® (Tomah company).
[0048] [Chem.5] NHÆ(0Œ2CH(R> (V)
[0049] in which
[0050] R represents a linear or branched C1-C3 alkylene group, in particular -CH2-, -CH2CH2-, -CHCH3- or -C(CH3)2-;
[0051] R' represents hydrogen, an alkyl group, preferably methyl;
[0052] x, y, y' and z independently of each other, represent numbers from 0 to 100;
[0053] and the sum of x + y + z is greater than 0, preferably ranging from 2 to 50.
[0054] Among the oxyalkylenated polyamines of formula (V) we can cite the compounds Jeffamine D230, Jeffamine D400, Jeffamine D2000, Jeffamine D4000, Jeffamine HK-511, Jeffamine ED600, Jeffamine ED900, and Jeffamine ED2003, Jeffamine EDR 148, and Jeffamine EDR 176 from Huntsman Corporation.
[0055] Other non-limiting examples of oxyalkylenated polyamines which can be used in the present invention are oxyalkylenated hydrocarbon amines which have three amine functions and in particular the compounds of formula (VI):
[0056] [Chem.6] R HâN™(CH(CHâ)CH^--(GHg)™(OCH2CH(CH^—NH2 (CH2)'(OCH2CH(CH3))~NH2 (VI)
[0057] in which
[0058] R is hydrogen or a CH3 or C2H5 group, n = 0 or 1, and
[0059] x, y, z independently denote a number ranging from 0 to 100 such that the sum x + y + z denotes a number ranging from 1 to 100.
[0060] Among the oxyalkylenated polyamines which can be used in the present invention and which correspond to formula (VI), mention may be made, for example, of the compounds Jeffamine T403, Jeffamine T3000 and Jeffamine T5000 from Huntsman Corporation.
[0061] Another type of oxyalkylenated polyamines includes compounds of formulas (VII):
[0062] [Chem.7] RNH 4-C3H5(OH) OsCH jCH CjHg^H) HN (CH2)m-NH C3H5(OH) O(CH 2CH 2O) r-(C3H ,(OH rNH-R
[0063] in which
[0064] R represents a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl group;
[0065] has a total value ranging from 5 to 30, preferably from 10 to 20;
[0066] has a value ranging from 2 to 6;
[0067] x has a value ranging from 1 to 4;
[0068] p and p' can take the values 0 or 1.
[0069] R preferably represents the alkyl group derived from tallow or the alkyl group derived from coconut oil.
[0070] Preferred examples of oxyalkylenated polyamines of formula (VII) are the products having the INCI names PEG-15 Tallow Polyamine such as Polyquart H81 offered by COGNIS and PEG-15 Cocopolyamine such as Dehyquart H81 offered by COGNIS (polymer of PEG, epichorhydrin dipropylenetriamine and cocoamine).
[0071] According to a particular embodiment, mention is made of oxyalkylenated polymanims such as Dehyquart H 81 or Polyquart H sold by the company Henkel. (INCI name PEG-15 cocopolyamine);
[0072] - (viii) methacrylamido-propyl-methacrylamide chloride copolymers trimonium and methacryloylethyltrimethyl ammonium and their derivatives, homo or copolymerized with other monomers, among which we can cite the polymers known via the INCI nomenclature as: Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Poly-quatemium-12, Polyquaternium-13 Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, such as the products sold under the name Rohagit KF 720 F by the company Rohm, Poly-quatemium-30, such as the products sold under the name Mexomere PX by the company Chimex, Polyquatemium-33, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquatemium-36, such as the products sold under the name Plex 3074 L by the company Rhon, Polyquaternium-45, such as the products sold under the name Plex 3073L by the company Rohn, Poly-quatemium-49, such as products sold under the name Plascize L440 by Goo Chemicals, Polyquaternium-50 such as products sold under the name Plascize L441 by Goo Chemicals, Polyquaternium-52.
[0073] According to a particular embodiment, Mexomere PX sold by the company Chimex (INCI name polyquaternium-30) is mentioned; and
[0074] - their mixtures.
[0075] Thus, the subject of the present invention, according to one of its aspects, is a composition as defined above, characterized in that the cationic polymer is chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, cationic guar gum derivatives, cationic cellulose polymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or non-quaternized, polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Ci-C4)trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium salts, cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium, oxyalkylenated polyamines, copolymers of methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride and methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium and their derivatives, homo or copolymerized with other monomers, in particular derivatives of guar gum. cationic guar and cationic cellulosic polymers and even more particularly cationic cellulosic polymers.
[0076] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the at least one cationic polymer is chosen from cationic guar gum derivatives as described above in (ii) and cationic cellulose polymers, in particular as described above in (iii) and mixtures thereof.
[0077] According to yet another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition as defined above, characterized in that the cationic polymer is chosen from polyquatemium-67, guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, in particular having the INCI name hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethosulfate thylammonium, in particular having the INCI name cetearyl alcohol (and) dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
[0078] A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.1% to 1.8% by weight of cationic polymer, in particular from 0.25% to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.4% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.4% to 0.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The content is expressed as active material.
[0079] Anionic polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer
[0080] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer.
[0081] Such polymers may be referred to as superabsorbent polymers in connection with their ability to absorb large quantities of aqueous fluid.
[0082] The term "superabsorbent polymer" means a polymer which is capable in its dry state of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular water and in particular distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in the work "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science 8" by L. BRAN NON-PAPPAS and R. HARLAND, published by Elsevier, 1990.
[0083] These polymers have a high capacity for absorbing and retaining water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the particles of the polymer thus soaked in aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus retain their individualized particulate state.
[0084] The superabsorbent polymer may have a water absorption capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e. 20 g to 2000 g of water absorbed per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times, and better still from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined at standard conditions of temperature (25°C) and pressure (760 mm Hg or 100000 Pa) and for distilled water. The value of the water absorption capacity of a polymer may be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150 μm filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.
[0085] Such a superabsorbent polymer is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or unhydrated state, an average size less than or equal to 100 pm, preferably less than or equal to 50 pm, ranging for example from 1 to 100 pm, preferably from 5 to 50 pm and better still from 7 to 30 pm.
[0086] The average particle size corresponds to the mass average diameter (D50) measured by laser granulometry or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. These particles, once hydrated, swell to form soft particles having an average size ranging from 10 pm to 1000 pm.
[0087] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic polymers chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer used comprise from 85 to 95% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and from 5 to 15% by weight of starch. Preferably, they consist of 90% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 10% by weight of starch.
[0088] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the molecular weight of the anionic polymer(s) chosen from the starches grafted with an acrylic polymer used is greater than 1000 daltons.
[0089] The anionic polymers chosen from the starches grafted with an acrylic polymer used in the present invention may be crosslinked or not crosslinked.
[0090] The anionic polymers chosen from the starches grafted with an acrylic polymer used in the present invention are preferably starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which are in particulate form.
[0091] Preferably, the anionic polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer, preferably in the form of particles having an average size (or average diameter) less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of particles.
[0092] Among the anionic polymers chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, mention may in particular be made of starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and in particular with sodium polyacrylate, for example those sold under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries, Makhnousse 7, Makhnousse 12 and Makhnousse 25, as sold by the company Daito Kasei (INCI name Sodium Polyacrylate Starch).
[0093] Such polymers are known to have gelling properties and a feel close to that provided by a silicone compound (“silicone-like” feel).
[0094] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer is Makhnousse 12.
[0095] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% by weight to 1.8% by weight, in particular from 0.25% to 1.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.4% to 1% by weight, for example from 0.4% to 0.75% by weight, of anionic polymer(s) chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition. The content is expressed as active material.
[0096] According to one embodiment of the invention, a composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.2% to 3.5% by weight of total active material in cationic polymer(s) and in anionic polymer(s) chosen from starches grafted by a polymer, in particular from 0.5% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.8% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0097] According to one embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the total content of cationic polymer(s) and the total content of anionic polymer(s) chosen from starches grafted by a polymer, present in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 10 / 90 to 70 / 30, preferably from 30 / 70 to 60 / 40, better still from 45 / 55 to 55 / 45, for example is equal to 50 / 50. Processes
[0098] According to a first method, the cationic and anionic polymer(s) according to the present invention is / are solubilized in water separately, then mixed in a second step in the composition according to the invention.
[0099] Alternatively, according to a second method, the anionic polymer(s) is / are solubilized in the composition according to the invention and then the cationic polymer(s) in accordance with the invention is / are added in a second step to the composition according to the invention.
[0100] Mixing at these different stages can be carried out using a rotor stator.
[0101] The other constituents of the composition or additives may be added to the composition. position alternately before or after the anionic and cationic polymers have been introduced into the composition. Composition
[0102] As stated previously, a composition according to the invention may be cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.
[0103] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin. The composition according to the invention can be applied to the face, neck, scalp, mucous membranes and nails or any other skin area of the body including the hands and feet.
[0104] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying this composition.
[0105] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is aqueous.
[0106] According to an even more particular embodiment, the composition according to the present The invention comprises water in a content ranging from 30 to 98% by weight, preferably from 50 to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 65 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0107] According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase may further comprise water-soluble solvents or glycerin, in particular for a care application.
[0108] By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a compound which is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
[0109] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can also be volatile.
[0110] Among the water-soluble solvents which may be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, lower diols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as 1,3-propanediol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
[0111] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one glycol having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, more particularly at least propylene glycol, or at least glycerin.
[0112] According to one embodiment, these water-soluble solvents or glycerin may be present in a total content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 2 to 15% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 4 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0113] According to an even more particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises propylene glycol and / or glycerin, the propylene glycol and the glycerin being present in a total content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 2 to 15% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 4 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional assets
[0114] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional cosmetic active agent, and in particular at least one compound chosen from: moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents; anti-aging / anti-wrinkle agents; agents having a restructuring effect on the skin barrier function; agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope; agents promoting skin microcirculation; agents stimulating the cellular energy metabolism of cells; tightening agents; antioxidant agents; anti-pollution and / or anti-free radical agents, desquamating agents, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof. Additives
[0115] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preservatives, perfumes, coloring matters, polar additives, film-forming polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), for example citric acid, tartaric acid or oxalic acid, chelating agents, cosmetic active ingredients such as for example healing agents, anti-oily skin agents, and / or anti-pollution agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0116] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. Dosage forms
[0117] A cosmetic composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms conventionally used in the cosmetic field according to the applications envisaged, in particular for a topical application.
[0118] For topical application to keratin materials, and in particular the skin or its appendages, a composition may have the form in particular of an aqueous or oily solution or of a dispersion of the lotion or serum type, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (oil-in-water) or vice versa (water-in-oil), or of suspensions or emulsions of soft consistency of the aqueous or anhydrous cream or gel type, or of microcapsules or microparticles, or of vesicular dispersions of the ionic and / or non-ionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
[0119] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsified gel.
[0120] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsified gel.
[0121] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0122] In particular, a composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 8. Preferably, the pH of the composition varies from 4 to 7, or even from 4 to 6.
[0123] A composition according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.
[0124] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises, in addition to (i) at least one cationic polymer and (ii) at least one anionic polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer:
[0125] - water in a content varying from 50 to 80%, in particular from 60 to 70%, and again more particularly from 61 to 67.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com- position,
[0126] - at least glycerin, in particular in a content included in a content ranging from 5 to 15% by weight, more particularly between 7 and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0127] - at least one fatty substance, notably chosen from fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, in particular octyldodecanol, isopropyl isostearate, cetyl alcohol or one of their mixtures, in particular in a content of between 8 and 20%, more particularly between 10 and 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
[0128] - at least one surfactant, in particular chosen from sugar ethers, esters of polyethylene glycol fatty acids, amino acid surfactants and mixtures thereof, in particular cetostearyl glucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO, sodium stearoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof, in particular in a content of between 0.3 and 4%, more particularly between 0.3 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0129] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsified gel and comprises, in addition to (i) at least one cationic polymer and (ii) at least one anionic polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer:
[0130] - water in a content varying from 60 to 90%, in particular from 65 to 85%, and again more particularly from 70 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0131] - at least glycerin, in particular in a content included in a content ranging from 2 to 10% by weight, more particularly between 3 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0132] - at least one silicone oil such as dimethicone, in particular in a content included in a content ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more particularly between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
[0133] - at least one non-ionic surfactant, in particular chosen from an alkyl- and polyalkyl ethers of glucose or alkylglucose, polyoxyethylenated or not, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, more particularly between 0.1 and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0134] When the composition according to the invention, whatever its nature, comprises an oily phase, this preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances. Examples of oils that can be used in the composition of the invention include:
[0135] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
[0136] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
[0137] - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates;
[0138] - polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, diheptanoate neopentyl glycol and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;
[0139] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil;
[0140] - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol;
[0141] - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;
[0142] - silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;
[0143] - their mixtures.
[0144] In the list of oils cited above, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means any oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.
[0145] Other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; fatty acid esters, such as isopropyl isostearate; paraffin oils, such as isohexadecane; fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Camauba or Candellila wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, fatty alcohol waxes such as behenyl alcohol; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Cl-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone;and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names “KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil”, “BY29” or “EPSX” by the company Dow Corning or under the names “Gransil” by the company Grant Industries.;
[0146] These fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example consistency or texture. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0147] The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.For W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned are dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil® EM 90 by the company Goldschmidt, or monosodium salts of glutamic acid and palm oil fatty acids, such as sold under the name Amisoft® HS 11 PF by the company Ajinomoto.
[0148] An organopolysiloxane can also be used as a surfactant for W / O emulsions. crosslinked elastomeric solid comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of examples 3, 4 and 8 of document US-A-5,412,004 and the examples of document US-A-5,811,487, in particular the product of example 3 (synthesis example) of patent US-A-5,412,004 and such as that marketed under the reference KSG 21 by the company Shin Etsu. Other types of KSG marketed by the company Shin Etsu can also be used, such as KSG-16.For O / W emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include non-ionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid and glycerol esters; oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.In a known manner, the cosmetic composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, solvents, perfumes, fillers, UV filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, coloring matters, plant extracts, salts, antioxidants, basic agents, acids, non-ionic, anionic, cationic surfactants.
[0149] The following non-ionic surfactants can also be used as surfactants for O / W emulsions:
[0150] - esters of polyols and fatty acids with saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, i.e. containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated units, such as glycerol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; polyethylene glycol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) of C8-C24 fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of C8-C24 fatty alcohols and their mixtures.
[0151] - glyceryl esters of fatty acids which may be mentioned in particular as take glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate) (INCI name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
[0152] Among the polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate) and more particularly polyethylene glycol monostearate 50 EO (INCI name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (INCI name: PEG-50 stearate) INCI: PEG-100 stearate), as well as their mixtures.
[0153] Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by the company Goldschmidt (INCI name: glyceryl stearate SE).
[0154] Among the fatty acid esters of glucose or alkylglucose, mention may be made in particular of glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates, for example methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, for example methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more particularly the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (INCI name: methyl glucose dioleate); the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture of oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid (INCI name: methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxysterate); the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (INCI name: methyl glucose isostearate); methylglucoside ester of lauric acid (INCI name: methyl glucose laurate); the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (INCI name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate);the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (INCI name: methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name Glucate SS by the company Amerchol, and their mixtures.;
[0155] As examples of oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose, mention may be made of oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid containing approximately 20 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate), such as the product sold under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by the company Amerchol; polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and stearic acid containing approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by the company Amerchol, and the product sold under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by the company Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.
[0156] Examples of sucrose esters that may be cited include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate, and sucrose monolaurate.
[0157] As examples of fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned, mention may be made of polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol). As examples, mention may be made of ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of the INCI name Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.
[0158] The sugar ethers which may in particular be cited are alkylpolyglucosides, for example decylglucoside, for example the product sold under the name Mydol 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 by the company Henkel, and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 by the company SEPPIC or under the name Lutensol GD 70 by the company BASF; laurylglucoside, for example the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N and Plantacare 1200 by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for example the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 / UP by the company Henkel; cetostearyl glucoside, possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tego-Care CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the company Henkel;arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of a mixture (35 / 65) with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, sold under the name Montanov 82 by the company SEPPIC; and mixtures thereof.
[0159] Amino acid surfactants may also be used as surfactants for O / W emulsions, such as salts of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, and any mixture thereof. More specifically, mention may be made of amino acid-based surfactants such as dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, lauroyl glutamate glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate,sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate, lauroyl [3-alaninate, lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate, myristoyl [3-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate and myristoyl methyl [3-alaninate, sodium palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, cocoyl glycinate, lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sar-cosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate.
[0160] sodium sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.
[0161] A non-ionic surfactant can be used for an oil-in-water emulsified gel.
[0162] These nonionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, sucrose alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, geminal surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and their mixtures.
[0163] As oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, those which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular having from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular fatty alcohols, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C12-C18; these may be ethoxylated or not, for example, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene units (INCI name Steareth-20) such as Brij® 78 marketed by the company UNIQEMA, ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylene units (INCI name Ceteareth-30) and the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylene units (INCI name C12_i5 Pareth-7) such as that marketed under the name Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals;or in particular oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) alcohols having from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and preferably C12-C18, ethoxylated such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units (INCI name Steareth-2) such as Brij® 72 marketed by the company Uniqema.;
[0164] As alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 are preferably used. Examples that may be mentioned are sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO, in particular po- lysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate), such as the product Tween ® 20 marketed by Uniqema, or polysorbate 60, sorbitan palmitate 20 EO, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan stearate 20 EO, sorbitan oleate 20 EO or even Cremophor® (RH 40, RH 60 ...) from BASF. We can also mention the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate, marketed under the name Arlacel® 2121U-FL from Croda.
[0165] As alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units are preferably used. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen, for example, from decylglucoside (Alkyl-Cç / Cn-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by the company Henkel and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10® by the company Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG 110® by the company Seppic;laurylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel; cocoglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by Henkel; caprylylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by Cognis; the mixture of arachidyl glucosyl and behenyl alcohol and arachidic alcohol, whose INCI name is Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, marketed under the name Montanov® 202 by Seppic; and mixtures thereof.
[0166] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant, in particular a non-ionic surfactant, and preferably a surfactant chosen from alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of glucose or alkylglucose, polyoxyethylenated or not.
[0167] As alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of glucose or alkylglucose, polyoxyethylenated or not, mention may preferably be made of Methylglucose sesquistearate and PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate.
[0168] The quantities of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field considered, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid vesicles.
[0169] As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, in addition to pigments, of silica powder, a colloidal amorphous silica; talc; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name nomination ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; micro-spheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by the company Dow Corning under the name POLYTRAP; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular, microspheres marketed under the name EXPANCEL by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name ML CROPEARL F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those marketed under the name TOSPEARL by the company Toshiba Silicone; and mixtures thereof.
[0170] These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0171] As hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of xanthan gum, guar gum, cellulose gum, scleroglocan gum, polyethylene gum and their mixtures.
[0172] The composition according to the invention may also comprise an emollient and / or a texturizing agent.
[0173] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of silicone compounds. Silicone compounds are defined as inorganic compounds formed from silicon-oxygen chains on which groups are attached to the silicon atoms. Destination of the composition
[0174] A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, preferably a cosmetic composition for the care of keratin materials, in particular of the body or the face, preferably of the face.
[0175] These compositions may constitute cleansing, protective, treatment or care creams for the face, for the hands, or for the body, for example day creams, night creams, make-up creams, foundation creams, sun creams, fluid foundations, protective or care body milks, sun milks, lotions, treatment ampoules.
[0176] Thus, a composition according to the invention can be used as a care and / or sun protection product for the face and / or body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as oils, milks, lotions, more or less creamy creams, gel-creams.
[0177] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a composition for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, preferably the face.
[0178] In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging care composition for the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.
[0179] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup composition for keratin materials, in particular for the body or face, preferably for the face.
[0180] Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup base composition for makeup. A composition of the invention may in particular be in the form of a foundation.
[0181] According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a lip product, in particular a lipstick.
[0182] According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an eyebrow product, in particular an eyebrow pencil.
[0183] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.
[0184] Thus, the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, preferably for the care, in particular of the skin of the body and / or face.
[0185] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined above.
[0186] Preferably, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined above.
[0187] In particular, a composition according to the invention can be used for the purpose of combating the signs of skin aging.
[0188] Thus, the present application also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention in order to combat the signs of skin aging.
[0189] The composition can be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.
[0190] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" must be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.
[0191] The expressions “between ... and ...”, “includes from ... to ...”, “formed from ... to ...”, and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.
[0192] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise stated- Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a mass percentage. Examples
[0193] In the examples which follow, the raw materials used are as follows:
[0194] - Makimousse 12 sold by the company Daito Kasei (INCI name Sodium Polyacrylate Starch). This product contains 100% active ingredient.
[0195] - the Jaguar® C13 S sold by the company RHODIA (INCI name Guar hy- droxypropyltrimonium chloride). This product contains 98.25% active ingredient.
[0196] - Softcat Polymer SL-100 sold by the company Dow (INCI name Poly- quatemium-67). This product contains 100% active ingredient.
[0197] - the Jaguar C162 sold by the company Rhodia (INCI name hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride). This product contains 100% active ingredient.
[0198] - Dehyquart F 30 sold by the company BASF (INCI name cetearyl alcohol (and) dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate). This product contains 30% active ingredient.
[0199] The contents are indicated in the following tables, in raw material.
[0200] In the following examples, “PA” means Anionic Polymer and “PC” means Cationic Polymer.
[0201] In the following examples, stability is tested macroscopically at T0 and T24 hours at room temperature.
[0202] Self-assembly is done quickly. In a very binary manner, the formula / gel dephases or not. It is therefore an observation with the naked eye which makes it possible to decide on the stability of the prepared compositions.
[0203] Regarding sensoriality, it was tested according to the following protocol:
[0204] Sensory protocol: 1. Application of 50 μL of product on the skin of the hand in the form of a circle for approximately 30 seconds, 2. The evaluator waits for the film to dry, 3. Sensory assessment (slippery, sticky, fluff, appearance). These are visual observations that are reported.
[0205] Example 1: Simple compositions comprising a cationic guar gum derivative or a cationic cellulose polymer as well as a starch grafted with an acrylic polymer at different mass ratios
[0206] In the compositions reported below, the contents are indicated in raw material while the ratios indicated in the titles relate to the mass ratios in active materials. In the compositions reported in this example, the total content of active material in cationic polymer(s) and in polymer(s) anionic(s) chosen from starches grafted by a polymer is 1% by weight.
[0207] [Tables 1] Camps 1 Csmpo 2 Compo 3 Compo 4 Nature ingredient. name corurnereiai ÏNCI PQ671MK12 50 / 50 PQ67M12 §0 / 40 PQ67WO.2 40 / 60 PQ67ZMK12 30 / 70 Solvent WATER 993 983 98.3 983 Conséfvalew' PRESERVATIVE 0.7 0.7 0.7 Makimosjsse 12 (MK 12}-PA SODIUM POLYACRY LATE STARCH 0.5 04 0.6 0.7 Poiyqusteraiurs -■57 (POë?) -PC POLYQUAT ERNIUM-67 0.5 0.6 0.4 03 TOTAL: 100 100 iœ 100 Stability Transtocide gel^ro uble / a compasfïiç» does not phase Thick gel, translucent .fié1 Thick, translucent gel Àî CGnSJMWÏtiQJî dép&œse pas Thick, translucent gel / a cQMpsjitiàn ne Seascriakté Sticky when drying Very smooth and powdery softness after drying Not carried out Very slippery Smooth and soft skin Very slippery Smooth and soft skin Compo 5 Csnipo ô Csmpo 7 Campe 8 Compo 9 Nature mgrêdteaÈfacm commercial INCI Gua^MKl 2 50 / 50 Guai / MKl 60 / 40 Guar^IKÎS 7030 Gum / MKI 7 40 / 60 GuarJéKl 30 / 70 Solvent WATER 9 SJ 983 98.3 9:8.3 983 Preservative KEPT THEIR DJ 0.7 0 7 DJ CJ Makimousse 12 (W12) - PA SODIUM POLYACRY LATE STARCH 03 8.4 0.3 03 0.7 Jaguar Ci 38 -PC GUAR HYDROXYP RQPYLTPd MQNIUM CHLORIDE & 03 0.7 0.4 ©3 TOTAL : 100 100 1.00 100 100 Stability Thick, oily, cloudy gel with granite effect of makimous se foi .on Homogeneous gel the contposiri OH Jgpfoasi? not Homogeneous gel the R SS ffephitse not Thick, cloudy and homogeneous gel fa cwppajfoï O?! W dépfeiîsë not Thick, cloudy and homogeneous gel & ccaFipasjfo <??ï se ■d^pforS® pas Senssrialité Toucher doux, lisse et poudré Douceur enfila peau similaire au ratio 50 / 50 Doux Fini peau lisse, doux Impression de tenseur Très glissant Fini peau lis.se et doux Compo 10 Csmpo 11 Nstore ffîgrééieB.Vnota cojEtneseial INCI GuarWlS 58 / 58 ceMos*©ehyquart 59 / 58 Ssh'sat TATER $S3 97,S Gossenrateur PRESERVATIVE 07 Makimousse 12 (MK12 ) -PA SODIUM FOL YACK YLATE STARCH 0,5 03 Jaguar Cl 62 HYDROXYPRGPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTR MOMUMCHLORINÉ 03 Deby-quart F 30 - FC CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) DÏPALMITOYLE'nm, HYDROXYE1ÏÏYLMO NIUM METHÔSULFATE TOTAL : lœ 100 Stability Liquid gel, homogeneous, cloudy, slightly dejp&ar i? p Thick white gel not Sensoriality Very slippery gel __BSet bare skin__ Soft but less marking
[0210] These compositions were tested in terms of stability and sensoriality and gave satisfactory results on both aspects as indicated in the tables above.
[0211] Example 2: Simple compositions comprising a cationic guar gum derivative or a cationic cellulose polymer as well as a starch grafted with an acrylic polymer
[0212] In the compositions reported below, the contents are indicated as raw material while the ratios indicated in the titles relate to the mass ratios of active materials. In the compositions reported in this example, the total content of active material in cationic polymer(s) and in anionic polymer(s) chosen from starches grafted by a polymer is 2% or 3% by weight. Campa 2A Cempo 2B Nature ingrëdienVncm commercial INCI PQ67 / Ma&iaKsusse 50X50 OsaK'MafclmoHsse 50 / 5® Solvent WATER. 97.7 97.7 Preservative PRESERVATIVE 04 04 Makimsusse 12 fMKW - PA SODIUM POLYACRYLATE STARCR LC 14 Jaguar C13S - PC GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTmfONIW. ŒLORIDE L0 PdyqBateminm- ■67(PQ&7L-PC POLYQUATERNIW-67 LO TOTAL: 100 10b Stability Thick, light beige, granular effect gel Thick, light beige, granular effect gel Sensoriality Skin finish quite similar to the 1% PC / PA blend but slightly degraded Skin finish quite similar to the PC / PA blend but slightly degraded Camp® 2C Comp® 2D Nature mgredientwm commercial INCI PQ67-Makimousse 50 / 56 Guar / Makimsîusse 5S / 56 Solvent WATER 96.5 Preservative PRESERVATIVE 0.5 03 Makimousse 12 1MK12)-PA. SODIUM POLYACRYLATE STARCH 1.5 L5 Jaguar C13S - PC GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTR1MONIUM CHLORIDE 13 Pdyquatemism-67 GW)-PC WLYQUATERNRJM-67 13 TOTAL: 100 106 Stabilized Compact effect gel, light beige, does not have a diethylamino acid. Compact effect gel, light beige, does not have a diethylamino acid. Sensoriality Skin finish, quite similar to a composition comprising 1% PC PA mixture but less soft sensoriality. Skin finish, quite similar to a composition comprising 1% PC PA mixture but less soft sensoriality.
[0215] These compositions were tested in terms of stability and sensoriality and gave satisfactory results on both aspects as indicated in the tables above.
[0216] Example 3: Simple compositions comprising a cationic guar gum derivative or a cationic cellulose polymer as well as a starch grafted with an acrylic polymer further comprising glycerin or a glycol C srapo 3 A Coiap» 3B Camps 3C C&mps 3D Camps 3Ë Nature insrédiesit INC! PQ67 / Màki mousse 50ÆÔ Guar'Maki mousse 50-5» PQS7.;Malci mousse 50 / 50 PQSTMaki mousse 50 / 56 PQ67:Mati mousse 50 / 50 Solvent WATER 89 91.1 93.1 38.1 Preservative PRESERVATIVE 0 0 0.9 0.9 Soi', aat GLYCERIN 10 IC ? 5. Hydrosolnble solvent PROPYLENE GLYCOL 10 12 (MK13J - PA SODIUM POLYACRYLÀTE STARCH $.5 sj J Polyquateraiïim-67^671 - PC POLYQUATERNIU Q 5 0.5 0.5 Jaguar CBS -PC GLAR HYDROXYPP.OPYL TRIMONTIM CHLORIDE TOTAL 100 100 100 100 100 Stability Cloudy and homogeneous gel / a csniparihas Cloudy and homogeneous gel 7s .ne Cloudy and homogeneous liquid gel / s casesMpcffifics ns sottes; Cloudy and homogeneous liquid gel & cotsaasSMJH ns afêptes Cloudy and homogeneous liquid gel iffl ns afepfeKs Sensoriality Skin soft, slightly soliaisie Soft skin with sticky p eu Soft skin. Sticky skin
[0218] These compositions were tested in terms of stability and sensoriality and gave satisfactory results on both aspects as indicated in the tables above.
[0219] Example 4: Oil-in-water compositions comprising a cationic guar gum derivative or a cationic cellulose polymer and a starch grafted with an acrylic polymer
[0220] According to a first alternative, the cationic guar gum derivative or a cationic cellulose polymer and the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer are introduced in the form of a previously prepared concentrated solution.
[0221] The concentrated solution as introduced into the compositions of the following table is prepared as follows: 1. Propylene glycol and phenoxyethanol are mixed under deflocculator, 2. Add makimousse under deflocculation until completely homogenized, Then 3. Add PQ-67 under deflocculation until completely homogenized.
[0222] [Tables?] Nature DOBimerdal 1NCI Phase Chtnpo4A Compe 4B Active CHELATANT A- ¢13 SclvSKt GLYCERIN WT© Active ACTIVE CARE 0.5 CL5 Active AGENT .ALCALIN O&5 0 05 1VATER. 2ÎÇC 25X0 Cæpg 2-33 œTTLUODECANOL B L8Ü 1,®& Agent âaulàûiuKEt STEARIC ACID ¢75 0'5 PRESERVATIVE ¢70 ■0.70 CæpS 2133 ÏSOPROPYLISTS ¢070' ISGHEXADECÀNE 4.60 4,60 Agent éraulsioimars! CETYL ALCOHOL L7Û 1.70 Teasiî-ac&f Lù?ntaEov 6S i Sepptc J CETEARYL ALCOHOL '(and) CETEARYL GLUCOSES 0.60 TauK'iSif mw sw brodai PEG4ÔQ STEARATE ¢20 BE ¢23 HE 13.50 LLCOHOL Tsniicscaf AMISOFT HS 2 IP (Ajinoni^tc DISODFJM STEAR0YL GLUTAJylATE ¢30 0,30 Solvent WATER G a® 19,50 Silicose DIMETHICQNE Fi 3X0 DRYFLOW PLUS $ Akzs Ncbell <CXNL A <ARŒ ÜtTENYL<CCDATE F2 3X0 TEGGLON 12 (Evonik> NYLON-12 2X0 220L (Micro Pmvder) POLYETHYLENE ¢5 Solutic® ccEcsntée 5% SODIL'M POLYAC RYLATE STARŒ - 5% NL TOVATERNIUY^^ in SC ?, PRQPYTENE -GL&CV&T 10.® >0.%PC; '? 5e £ PA SdvsKî T'ATEE. >û.M 11.50 TOTAL WÔ,00 10¢ 00 Stability Crèsie brillasse hlsnche £«at;sasjtïca / sas White burning cream la C0S82WSi?K*8 as aës.tes A'53 .
[0223] These compositions have been tested for stability and have given satisfactory results as indicated in the table above.
[0224] According to a second alternative, the cationic guar gum derivative or a cationic cellulose polymer and starch grafted with an acrylic polymer are introduced separately into the composition.
[0225] [Tables8] Christmas m œmmerdaî INC! Phase Cosipo 4C Ceapo 4D Compe Œ Actif CHELATANT A 020 0.20 Solvant GLYCER1N 'ÛÛQ 10,00 Ac&f ACTIF SOIN 0,40 Actif AGENT ALCALIN û.05 w Savant WÂTER 25.00 40.00 25tW PA SODIUM PQLYACRYLATE STARCH &£ Corps gras OÇTYLDODECÂNOL B LSQ 1> 1,80 Tesssoactif STEARICAC1D 3.75 02 5 0,75 Csiiaeivateur CONSERVATEUR £U& 0,70 0,70 Corps gras ISGPROPYL ISOSTEARATE 2.75 2,70 2,70 Corps gras. ISOHEXADECANE 450 4.60 460 Caps gras ŒTYL ALCGHOL L70. L?0 l,?0 Tensactif'' Mckèshov 68 (SeppkO CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) ceîearyl GLUCOSBE 0,6» 0,60 0,60 Tensactif myrjsioo (CRQDA) PEG-1Q0 STEARATE 0,20 0,20 0^0 Tensactif EEHENYL ALCOHOL L5& 1,50 1,50 Tensactif AMES0ETHS 21P (ÂjmaÉsoto) DISODIUM STEAROÏL GLUTAMATE 03û ■0,30 ü 30 Seyant WÀTER G 19.50 33.55 12,50 ?£lVC <kïat£hlisi m-6-ypq67). pc polyquatepnîum- 67 0,50 mskraou. ,.t k 'sko sodium polyacrylate. starch 03& 035 pelyçtssrensr^ m-6" fpqêtj _ pqlyquàternikm- 0^ 030 solvant water 29,00 2930 total 100,00 iœ,oo stabibè hœncgèiia kg hosiagèn-a là homogène ïs cosspas «g 4k sais sssr
[0226] These compositions have been tested for stability and have given sa- satisfactory as indicated above.
[0227] Example 5: Emulsified gel compositions comprising a cationic guar gum derivative or a cationic cellulose polymer as well as a starch grafted with an acrylic polymer further comprising glycerin or a glycol
[0228] In the composition detailed below, the cationic guar gum derivative or a cationic cellulose polymer and the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer are introduced in the form of a concentrated solution previously prepared as follows:
[0229] The solution is made in the STEPHAN (food mixer) as follows:
[0230] 1) the aqueous phase and the preservatives are introduced into the bowl
[0231] 2) add makimousse (10-15%), then
[0232] 3) Cationic cellulose (15-20%) is added. Rature i ngrédieat / iiotn ceramerdàl INC! Phase Composition SA Solvent WATERi AQUA Al 20 Solvent GLYCERIN Y Active Active Care ■ 2 25 GLUCAMAT SSE 20 Emtdsifter sLaferisol) PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE ai Fat OCTYLDODECANOL 0.5 Preservative CAPRYLYL GLYGOL À2 Û3 Preservative PHENOXYETHANOL K5 Active DISODiUMEDTA Cl J Solvent WATER3 AQUA A3 40$ REPAIE COMPLEXCLR PF (CLR) B3FIDA FERMENT LYSATE A.4 IG Sclvaat WATER / AQUA A3 5 SODIUM HYDRGXIDE 0;0345 Phosphoniqise polymer AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOŸLDIMETHYL TAURATE 0.25 Thickener XANTHAN GUM ai Silicone DIMETHICONE S i Solvent .hydroso lubie ALCOHOL DENAT. c 0 Concentrated Sdkstisss Premix of Makinsonsse L / Palvquatem'uni ” 5" 30 at 3% of tnstïeœ dctix e co&ceÉàrée 5% SODIUM POLYACRYLATE SE.ARCH -5 % POE VQUATE RNIUM-6 " in §9.3% PROPYLENE GLYCOL-f "% PlseaDx; eüianc' 1« PC and 0.5% PA) TOTAL 100.00 Stability Thick serum Sensoriality Softness present
[0234] The composition has been tested in terms of stability and sensoriality. It gives a satisfactory result in both aspects.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, comprising: (i) at least one cationic polymer, and (ii) at least one anionic polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, characterized in that the composition contains less than 1.8% by weight of anionic polymer(s) chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the cationic polymer is chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, cationic guar gum derivatives, cationic cellulose polymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or non-quaternized, polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Ci-C4)trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium salts, cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium, oxyalkylenated polyamines, copolymers of methacrylamide methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride and methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium and their derivatives, homo or copolymerized with other monomers, in particular cationic guar gum derivatives and cellulose polymers. cationic and even more particularly cationic cellulose polymers.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the cationic polymer is chosen from polyquatemium-67, guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, in particular having the INCI name hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl-trimonium chloride and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium methosulfate, in particular having the INCI name cetearyl alcohol (and) dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic polymer chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, is in particular in particulate form.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains from 0.1% by weight to 1.8% by weight, in particular from 0.25% to 1.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.4% to 1% by weight, for example from 0.4% to 0.75% by weight, of polymer(s) anionic(s) chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.2% to 3.5% by weight of total active material in cationic polymer(s) and in anionic polymer(s) chosen from starches grafted by a polymer, in particular from 0.5% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.8% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total content of cationic cellulose polymer(s) and the total content of anionic polymer(s) chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, present in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 10 / 90 to 70 / 30, preferably from 60 / 40 to 30 / 70, better still from 45 / 55 to 55 / 45, for example is equal to 50 / 50.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is aqueous.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises water in a content ranging from 30 to 98% by weight, preferably from 50 to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 65 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional cosmetic active agent, and in particular at least one compound chosen from: moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents; anti-aging / anti-wrinkle agents; agents having a restructuring effect on the skin barrier function; agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope; agents promoting skin microcirculation; agents stimulating the cellular energy metabolism of cells; tightening agents; antioxidant agents; anti-pollution and / or anti-free radical agents, desquamating agents, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsified gel.
12. A composition according to any preceding claim, ca- characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, preferably the face.
13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises, in addition to (i) at least one cationic polymer and (ii) at least one anionic polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer: - water in a content varying from 50 to 80%, in particular from 60 to 70%, and even more particularly from 61 to 67.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least glycerin, in particular in a content ranging from 5 to 15% by weight, more particularly between 7 and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least one fatty substance, in particular chosen from fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, in particular octyldodecanol, isopropyl isostearate, cetyl alcohol or one of their mixtures, in particular in a content of between 8 and 20%, more particularly between 10 and 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and - at least one surfactant, in particular chosen from sugar ethers, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, amino acid surfactants and mixtures thereof, in particular cetostearyl glucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO, sodium stearoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof, in particular in a content of between 0.3 and 4%, more particularly between 0.3 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the composition is in the form of an emulsified gel and comprises, in addition to (i) at least one cationic polymer and (ii) at least one anionic polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer: - water in a content varying from 60 to 90%, in particular from 65 to 85%, and even more particularly from 70 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least glycerin, in particular in a content ranging from 2 to 10% by weight, more particularly between 3 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least one silicone oil such as dimethicone, in particular in a content ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more particularly between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and - at least one non-ionic surfactant, in particular chosen from an alkyl- and polyalkyl-ether of glucose or alkylglucose, polyoxyethylene or not, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, more particularly between 0.1 and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.