Cosmetic composition containing a natural resin

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprising a natural resin The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one volatile oil, at least one volatile alcohol, and at least one natural resin; and the use of such a composition to improve the hold and / or resistance to friction without increasing the stickiness of a film obtained by applying said composition to keratinous materials.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising a natural resin Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one natural resin, at least one volatile oil and at least one volatile alcohol, in particular weight ratios. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process implementing the application of such a cosmetic composition to keratin materials, in particular human materials such as the skin, hair or eyelashes. Context of the invention

[0002] Cosmetic products often require the use of a film-forming polymer to obtain a deposit of the product on keratin materials having good cosmetic properties. It is necessary for the film-forming deposit to have good hold, that it does not transfer when in contact with fingers or clothing; as well as good hold in contact with water, in particular rain or when showering; or even that the deposit is insensitive to perspiration or sebum, as well as to food fats, in particular food fats such as oils.

[0003] Dispersions of polymer particles, generally acrylic, in organic media such as hydrocarbon oils are commonly used as film-forming agents in makeup products such as mascaras, eyeliners, eye shadows or lipsticks. Silicone-based resins are also used for the purpose of improving cosmetic hold. These dispersions are not always satisfactory in terms of resistance to fatty substances, in particular food fatty substances or sebum, which can be a barrier to their use in lip makeup for example.

[0004] On the other hand, cosmetic formulation is undergoing a major transformation. Consumers have expectations for more naturalness, and the need to be reassured about the ingredients in cosmetic formulas, particularly their safety, low environmental footprint, origin, and renewable nature. In recent years, the replacement of synthetic polymers, and particularly silicones, in cosmetic formulas has become a major issue.

[0005] Even if certain natural resins, such as rosin resin, have already been explored as tackifying resins, it is necessarily in combination with a high proportion of silicone resins, for example with a view to increasing the shine and good hold of lip makeup (FR2918272). However, the document WO2013 / 147113 reports several problems encountered with such ingredients, for example: a loss of flexibility of the cosmetic film is often observed as the quantity of silicone resin increases; a sticky effect of the cosmetic film appears as the quantity of rosin resin increases. This results in a feeling of “loaded”, heavy, or lumpy makeup.

[0006] Consumers are accustomed to certain sensory and textural properties, for example those characteristic of silicones and synthetic polymer fillers. This is why the formulator must respond to the double challenge: on the one hand, naturalness, in which silicone resins and synthetic polymers are gradually replaced by more natural raw materials, or of more natural origin; and on the other hand, performance and sensoriality, so that the more natural formulas have an effectiveness and sensory properties at least equivalent to those of the less natural formulas that they are intended to replace.

[0007] Finally, successfully formulating solid natural resins, at room temperature (25°C), in a cosmetic product with a liquid fluid texture, always remains a technical challenge. Typically, natural resins are reported as being soluble in chlorinated solvents or in benzene compounds, or in large quantities of alcohols. Such solvents are not feasible for cosmetic use for skin care or makeup, particularly for the lips, where even ethanol above a certain content is likely to cause discomfort, dryness, irritation, or even a burning sensation of the skin. The present invention therefore also aims to make it possible and simple to prepare cosmetic compositions offering improved hold, based on the most natural ingredients possible, and in a cosmetically acceptable medium.

[0008] In particular, the aim of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition whose residual film after application adheres well to keratin materials, is elastic with the least possible fragmentation, the least possible detachment from the substrate, non-sticky, exhibiting good resistance to external aggressions, such as friction, resistant to sweat, sebum, and not very sensitive to oils such as edible oils.

[0009] The inventors have shown that, surprisingly, a particular combination of volatile alcohol and volatile oil not only makes it possible to effectively solubilize a natural resin, including semi-solid or solid, at room temperature (25°C), but even makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition whose film obtained after application proves to be both particularly resistant to friction and non-sticky. Summary of the invention

[0010] The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition (A) comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0011] a- at least one volatile oil,

[0012] b- at least one volatile alcohol, and

[0013] c- at least one natural resin,

[0014] in which the weight ratio of the total quantity of volatile oil(s) and volatile alcohol(s) to the quantity of natural resin(s) is greater than 1.

[0015] Preferably, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition (A) comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0016] a- at least one volatile oil,

[0017] b- at least one volatile alcohol, and

[0018] c- at least one natural resin,

[0019] in which:

[0020] - the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of resin(s) natural(s) is greater than 0.5; preferably greater than 1;

[0021] and

[0022] - the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile alcohol(s) to the quantity of resin(s) natural(s) is greater than 0.5; preferably greater than 1.

[0023] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one oily phase of composition (A) as defined above. The oily phase of the invention is preferably continuous.

[0024] The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined according to the invention.

[0025] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined according to the invention for improving the hold on the skin and / or the resistance to friction of a cosmetic film without increasing the sticky effect of said film obtained by application of said composition to keratin materials. Detailed description of the invention

[0026] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0027] By "keratin materials" is meant the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the appendages. Preferably, the keratin materials are the skin, in particular the skin of the face, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and / or the appendages such as the eyelashes.

[0028] The compositions according to the invention may be cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Preferably, they are cosmetic compositions.

[0029] The composition according to the invention contains a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0030] In the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a non-toxic medium, compatible with keratin materials, in particular with the skin (including the inside of the eyelids), mucous membranes, hair or lips of human beings. A cosmetic composition is a product having a pleasant appearance, odor and feel, and intended for topical application.

[0031] By "anhydrous composition" is meant a composition containing less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1% by weight of water, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular free of water.

[0032] By "volatile substance" is meant any substance capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Said volatile substance is liquid at room temperature, in particular has a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, preferably of 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and preferably of 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0033] The vapor pressure can be measured by the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

[0034] By "soluble or solubilized compound" is meant a compound which can be dissolved in a liquid, or which is miscible, and forms only a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the liquid.

[0035] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0036] The expressions “at least one” and “one or more” are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.

[0037] In the description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, the contents and percentages are percentages by weight. The percentages are therefore expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The ratios are also weight ratios. The temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated. Composition (A) - Oily phase

[0038] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition as defined above.

[0039] The applicant has found, surprisingly, that composition A of the invention comprising natural resin(s), in particular solubilized, in a specific mixture of volatile oil(s) and volatile alcohol(s), as defined below, makes it possible to obtain a film with improved hold, resistant to friction and non-sticky. Natural resins

[0040] A resin is generally defined as a solid, highly viscous or liquid substance of plant or synthetic origin. Resins have several specific characteristics, such as:

[0041] - the ability to harden permanently, for example for synthetics under the influence of temperature and for natural ones under the influence of oxygen;

[0042] - their insolubility in water and especially their good sticky and adhesive properties.

[0043] The ISO4618:2014(fr) standard defines a resin as being a “generally amorphous macromolecular product, with a consistency ranging from the solid state to the liquid state”

[0044] Natural resins are almost exclusively of plant origin (fossil or harvested), and are secreted and then exuded from plants for defense, protection and communication roles within their ecosystem. Shellack of animal origin, secreted by the insect Coccus lacca, is an exception.

[0045] By "natural resin", and in particular "plant resin", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any substance comprising a minimum content of terpene compounds, that is to say at least 30% by weight of terpene compounds on the total weight of the substance (or material) considered, as chemically defined below, said substance being derived directly or indirectly, from the secretion and exudation, mainly by plants (more rarely by animals), of a substance for roles of defense, protection and communication with their ecosystem.

[0046] Advantageously, the natural resin according to the invention is not soluble in water at room temperature (unlike latex or gums for example).

[0047] Natural resins are also considered natural glues that have the inherent ability to polymerize consistently and predictably on their own without synthetic chemistry.

[0048] Preferably, the natural resin used in the composition according to the invention has a number-average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol. The resin preferably has a number-average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 5,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 5,000 g / mol, better still, less than or equal to 2,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 2,000 g / mol and even better still less than or equal to 1,000 g / mol, particularly ranging from 250 to 1000 g / mol. Number-average molecular weights (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector). Thermal properties

[0049] - the softening point is the temperature at which a product reaches a certain degree of softening under standard conditions. It refers to the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state upon heating. It can be measured by the ring and ball method (or TB A, ring and ball temperature) for resins according to ASTM E284;

[0050] - the melting point (or melting temperature) of a substance at a pressure given corresponds to the temperature at which the liquid and solid states of this substance can coexist in equilibrium;

[0051] - the glass transition temperature (Tv, or in English: Tg for glass) of a matter represents the temperature range across which matter changes from a rubbery state to a glassy, ​​solid (rigid) state.

[0052] The thermal properties, in particular the Tf and Tg of the resins, can be measured by DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry), for example using a Perkin Elmer DSC 8000 device, according to:

[0053] - Protocol 1: Determination of melting temperatures Tf and crystallization Te: The raw materials alone or solubilized / dispersed in solvents, stainless steel cups, sweeping from 5°C to 90°C, sweeping speed at 5°C.min-l.

[0054] - Protocol 2: Determination of the glass transition temperature Tg: measurement in 2nd heating. Aluminum cups (40 qL) are used containing the raw materials, a temperature scan between -100°C and 150°C (with isotherms) is carried out in order to observe the glass transition temperature. The temperature ramp applied is 10°C / min for the glass transition temperatures (2 cycles).

[0055] Preferably, the resins of the invention have a glass transition temperature, this being preferably in the range from 0 to 200°C, more preferably from 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 20°C to 90°C and even more preferably from 30°C to 70°C.

[0056] Advantageously, the resins according to the invention are characterized by the fact that they have a softening point, which designates the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state upon heating.

[0057] Preferably, the resins of the invention have a softening point (or temperature) in the range of 20°C to 150°C, more preferably 30°C to 100°C, even more preferably 40°C to 90°C.

[0058] Depending on their class, some of the resins according to the invention may also have a melting temperature, preferably less than 360°C, preferentially less than 190°C, and even more preferentially less than 90°C.

[0059] According to a preferred form of the invention, the resins do not have a melting temperature. Botanical definition#of resins#:

[0060] Natural resins of plant or animal origin are classically defined by Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, "Resins, Synthetic" 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a23_089.pub2.

[0061] Natural resins can be classified by their botanical aspects. Resins can be derived from gymnosperms (naked seeders) and angiosperms (covered seeders); the latter are subdivided into monocots (with one leaf embryo) and dicots (with two leaf embryos). They can also be chosen according to their physical and chemical properties.

[0062] Natural resins include, in particular, rosins (gum, wood or tall oil rosins from tree and plant exudates; extracted woods; or by-products of papermaking), fossil resins such as amber; extracted resins such as asphaltite; shellacs such as those produced from insect secretions; and their principal derivatives.

[0063] Preferably, the resins of the invention are of plant origin, in particular from plants or trees.

[0064] Fossil resins are resins (hard and semi-hard) collected from the ground on the site of ancient forests that have disappeared today. Some of them are not even known with certainty anymore. Some fossil resins have undergone considerable changes in their chemical structure through aging or ripening, which may have taken thousands of years. The transition from fossil resins to recent ones is variable. They may, for example, include resins that are both found fossilized and collected from living plants. Semi-fossil varieties are collected at the foot of the trees that produced them (Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, “Resins, Natural” 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a23_073) (Techniques de l'Ingénieur, “Résines Naturelles”, 1982 Bernard Delmond).

[0065] Harvested resins are recent (tender). They are harvested from plants that are all alive. Depending on their composition, they are subdivided into:

[0066] - oleoresin: natural solution of resin in an essential oil;

[0067] - balm: resin characterized by a significant proportion of benzoic acids and cinnamic acids and their esters;

[0068] - gum: resin composed essentially of polysaccharides;

[0069] - gum resin: mixture of resins and hydrophilic gums;

[0070] - latex: milky composition of organic materials dispersed in a medium aqueous (Engineering Techniques, “Natural Resins”, 1982 Bernard Delmond)

[0071] Among the resins, in particular recent resins, of the invention, resins soluble in oils and / or alcohols are preferred over water-soluble forms such as latexes or gums.

[0072] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins of the invention are harvested resins; particularly interesting according to the invention from an ecological point of view because they are self-regenerating.

[0073] Preferably, the resins of the invention are recent. Advantageously, the resins used according to the invention rely on resources which are not in competition with those intended for food applications. Advantageously, the resins used in the compositions of the invention find their origin in the recovery of co-products from the paper industry. Chemical definition of resins

[0074] Chemically, natural resins are complex mixtures of several classes of compounds whose presence and content define the class of resin (oleoresin, balsam, gum, etc.): essential oils, neutral and acid constituents and polysaccharides (present exclusively in gums).

[0075] The characteristic components of the resins are the terpene compounds which they contain, preferably in a content of at least 30% by weight, based on the weight of resin.

[0076] By "terpene compounds" we mean terpenes, hydrocarbons formed from isoprene of general formula (C5H8)n, and their numerous derivatives (alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids, etc.) comprising a terpene structure (Montpellier Academy website on "terpenes").

[0077] Among the terpene hydrocarbons, we distinguish: monoterpenes of crude formula C10H16 (n=2), sesquiterpenes of crude formula C15H24 (n=3), diterpenes (C20H32) (n=4), sesterterpenes (C25H40) (n=5), triterpenes (C30H48) (n=6), tetraterpenes (C40H64) (n=8) and other polyterpenes. Some have an acyclic structure; they have a number of double bonds corresponding to their crude formula: 3 for C10H16; 5 for C20H32; 7 for C30H48. Others have one or more cycles, i.e. a smaller number of double bonds; for example for C10H16 one cycle and 2 double bonds or 2 cycles and one double bond.

[0078] Advantageously, the resins of the invention contain at least 30% of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpene compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% of terpene compounds, by weight of the total weight of resin or resinous substance used as raw material in the composition according to the invention.

[0079] Monoterpene and sesquiterpene compounds are mostly volatile compounds, constituting for example essential oils. Polyterpene compounds derived from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4 (such as derivatives of diterpenes and triterpenes) are resinous compounds of a rather solid nature.

[0080] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, of polyterpene compounds, i.e. derived from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4, out of the total weight of the resin representing 100%. Thus, resins having a solid fraction, at room temperature (25°C), are preferred. Advantageously, said resins used according to the invention are not volatile.

[0081] Advantageously, the polyterpene compounds of the resins or resinous substances used in the composition of the invention are predominantly (more than 50% by weight of the total weight of polyterpenes) derived from diterpenes and / or triterpenes.

[0082] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise less than 70% by weight of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, i.e. derived from terpenes with n less than 4, on the total weight of the resin representing 100%, preferably said resins comprise less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, derived from terpenes with n less than 4, on the total weight of the resin representing 100%. It is thus preferred, for the compositions of the invention, to limit the use of the most volatile resins, because they are less effective in terms of cosmetic film strength.

[0083] A non-exhaustive list of terpene compounds that may be contained in the natural resins of the invention has been established. It lists families of terpene compounds, subdivided according to the characteristic groups (alcohol function, ketone function, acid function, etc.) of each compound (Lists below). Examples of monoterpene compounds

[0084] Advantageously, the monoterpene compound(s) of the resin are chosen from: alpha-pinene, [3-pinene, 3-carene, Camphene, Dipentene, P-Cymene, B-myrcene, a-Phellandrene, Sabinene, a-Thuyene, Limonene, Octyl Ethanoate, Neryl Ethanoate, Bornyl Ethanoate, Geranyl Ethanoate, a-Terpineol, Cineol, Linalool, Bomeol, their derivatives, and their mixtures. Examples of sesquiterpene compounds

[0085] Advantageously, the sesquiterpene compound(s) of the resin are selected among: Alpha-copaene, [3-caryophyllene, [3-bisabolene, [3-gurjunene, alpha-gurjunene, allo-Aromadendrene, [3- Bourbonene, Delta-cadine, Alpha-guanene, Elemene, [3 - Elemene, d - Elemene, a - Copaene, a - Selinene, [3 - Selinene, [3 - Bourbonene, Lindestrène, Furanoeudesma-l,3-diene, a - Cubebene, Farnesol, a- Elemol, Viridiflorol, t- Cadinléne, Elemol, Germacrone Curzerenone, their derivatives, and their mixtures. Examples of diterpene compounds

[0086] Advantageously, the diterpenic compound(s) of the resin are chosen from: Abietic acid, Pimaric acid, Sandarcopimaric acid, Comunic acid, Levopimaric acid, Palustric acid, Isopimaric acid, Dehydroabietic acid, Neoabietic acid, Agathic acid, Cembrene A, Cembrene C, Isocembrene, Vercilla-4(20),7,11-triene, Incensole, Totarol, Sandaracopimarinol, Cembrenol, their derivatives, and their mixtures. Examples of triterpene compounds

[0087] Advantageously, the triterpene compound(s) of the resin are chosen from:

[0088] 3[3,20(S)-dihydroxydammar-24-ene, dammarenolic acid, dammardienone, hydroxydammarenone (I or II), Dammarenediol I (or II), Dammadienol, 11-keto-[3-boswellic acid (KBA), 11-keto-[3-boswellic acid acetate (AKBA), [3-boswellic acid, ursolic acid, mangiferonic acid, benthamic acid, ursolic aldehyde, α-amyrenone, α-amyrin, β-amyrin, Uvaol, oleanolic acid, oleanonic acid, moronic acid, oleanonic aldehyde, acetyl-lupeolic acid, lupeolic acid, Lupeol

[0089] Betulonal, Hydroxyhopanone, their derivatives, and their mixtures.

[0090] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) used according to the present invention contain at least one diterpene compound, preferably derived from abietic acid, natural or chemically modified.

[0091] Preferably, the diterpene compound(s), in particular derived from abietic acid, are present in the resin in weight contents of at least 20%, preferably at least 30%, and even more preferably at least 40%, by weight of the total weight of the natural resin.

[0092] Mention may in particular be made of rosin resins t) such as rosinates, containing such diterpene compounds.

[0093] According to a second embodiment of the invention, alternative or complementary to the first, the resin(s) used according to the present invention contain at least one triterpene compound, preferably chosen from: following triterpene compounds: alpha-amyrin, beta-amyrin, alpha-amyrone, beta-amyrone, dammadienone, dammadienol, ursolic aldehyde, hydroxyhopanone, oleanonic aldehyde, ursolic acid, oleanonic acid, oleanolic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] The total content of triterpene compounds, in particular the content of those preferred above, in the resin used according to the invention is advantageously at least 10%, preferably at least 20%, even more preferably at least 30%, and preferably at least 35% by weight of the total weight of the natural resin.

[0095] Mention may in particular be made of incense resins k) protium heptaphyllum or shorea robusta, containing such triterpene compounds.

[0096] The chemical composition of a resin can be analyzed by conventional techniques known to those skilled in the art such as gas chromatographic analysis GC, chromatographic analysis with flame ionization detection called GC-FID, or GC / MS analysis which consists of the use of a mass spectrometer coupled to a gas chromatograph; preferably by GC-FID.

[0097] The following article discusses these common methods “Methodological developments in TLC / MALDITOF MS and GC / MS for the analysis of terpenoid compounds present in plant resins” (Thesis by Zaïneb Jemmai, September 4, 2017). Definition of resins by their origin#:

[0098] Mention may in particular be made of incense resins k) protium heptaphyllum or shorea robusta, containing such triterpene compounds.

[0099] Advantageously, the natural resin(s) according to the invention are chosen from: a) acaroid resins, b) ambers, c) asphaltite and gilsonite, d) Peruvian balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) Benzoin resins, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins (in particular Kauri copal resins, Manila copal resins, West African copals such as Congo, Angola or Cameroon copals, East African copals such as Zanzibar or Madagascar copals, South American copals such as Brazilian or Colombian copals), i) damars, j) elemis, k) incenses, 1) Galbanums, m) labdanums, n) mastics or mastics, o) Myrrh, p) Sandarac, q) Shellacs, r) Styrax (Storax), s) Venetian Turpentine (Larch, Turpentine), t) Colophony, including Rosin and Rosinate and Tall Oils, v) Resins extracted from vegetable waxes; and mixtures of these resins.

[0100] Preferably, the natural resin(s) used according to the invention are chosen from j), k), t) and v); it is understood that the resin(s) of the invention may be esterified, salified, adducted, modified by phenols, and / or dimerized and further hydrogenated.

[0101] a) Acaroid resins

[0102] Acaroid resin is a recent resin isolated from Xanthorrhoea species, produced in Australia. Appearance. Resins of known acaroid types are yellow or red and differ from each other also in their physical properties. The red acaroid resin is the most important. Acid number 60 - 110 (red), 125 - 140 (yellow); saponification number 160 - 200 (red), 200 - 240 (yellow). In contrast to the red resin type, the yellow type contains and benzoic cinnamic acids, p-coumaric acid esters, and xanthoresinotannol (about 80%). The red type contains erythroresinotannol (about 85%).

[0103] According to one embodiment, the natural resin(s) are chosen from: a) acaroid resins a).

[0104] b) Ambers

[0105] Ambers are fossil resins that originate from conifers of the Tertiary period (Pinites succinifera). Ambers were probably formed by successive flows of resins, molded into their present forms by pressure, temperature, and other influences over thousands of years. Ambers are found mainly in Sambia (Baltic coast) and the Kaliningrad Peninsula (Palmnicken Region). They are obtained either by collecting or fishing on the coast (sea amber) or by isolation from "blue earth," which is mined in Palmnicken. Ambers range from bright yellow to brownish (amber-colored). The resin has an angular or rounded shape of various sizes that may contain inclusions. Amber is a very hard resin that is practically insoluble in all solvents and is a very good dielectric. Amber acquires a negative charge through mechanical friction and was therefore called "electronin" from Old Greek.It decomposes at about 370 °C without melting. Unlike other resins, amber contains organically bound sulfur. The composition of amber can vary considerably. The approximate elemental composition can be found in the literature: 78% carbon, 9.9% hydrogen, 11.7% oxygen, 0.4% sulfur, and 0.2% ash; acid number 15 - 35, saponification value 90 - 125.

[0106] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from b) ambers.

[0107] c) Asphaltite and gilsonite

[0108] Asphaltite is a fossil resin (see Asphalt and Bitumen, Chap. 2.) which is also known as "glossy pitch". It is a neutral resin based on thermoplastic hydrocarbon. According to DIN 55 946 asphaltite is defined as natural asphalt with low mineral content and high hardness. This natural product appears to be formed from crude oil by evaporation of volatile components and by natural reaction of autoxidation, polymerization. Hard natural asphalt (asphaltite) is found in Utah / Colorado (gilsonite), Virginia, and Syria. The Utah asphalt deposit was discovered in 1860 by S.H. Gilson. Asphalts are mined in Trinidad (Trinidad asphalt), Bermuda, Cuba, Mexico, and Palestine. Gilsonite is dark brown to black in color and shiny.

[0109] Gilsonite has a softening point between 145 - 195 °C (ring and ball); an acid number of 2.3; and a density of 1.03 to 1.15 g / cm3. It is soluble in carbon disulfide and aromatics, less soluble in aliphatic and mineral oils. Gilsonite thickens readily in solution on storage, lower alcohols and glycols act as diluting agents; gilsonite is only partially soluble in ketones and some glycol ethers.

[0110] The approximate elemental composition of gilsonite is 80 to 90 wt% (such as 85%) carbon, 5 to 15 wt% (such as 10%) hydrogen, 1 to 5 wt% (such as 2.5%) nitrogen, 0.5 to 2.5 wt% (such as 1.5%) oxygen, and 0.1 to 1 wt% (such as 0.3%) sulfur. Gilsonite contains from 40% to 70% by weight (about 50 to 65%) of asphaltenes, from 30% to 50% by weight (such as 35 to 45%) of resins, from 0.5% to 10% by weight (such as 1 to 5%) of oils and from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight (such as 0.2%) of ash. With increasing softening point, the proportion of asphaltenes increases and the proportion of oils decreases. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from Trinidad asphalt. The latter particularly contains between 75 and 90% by weight (about82%) of carbon, between 5% and 15% by weight (such as 10%) of hydrogen, between 0.5% and 2% by weight (such as 1%) of nitrogen, between 3% and 10% by weight, (such as 6%) of sulfur, and between 0.1% and 1% by weight (such as 0.5%) of oxygen.

[0111] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from c) asphaltite and gilsonite.

[0112] d) Peruvian Balsam

[0113] Peruvian balsam is obtained from the Myroxylon balsamum (Toluifera pereirae Baill.) trees occurring in Central and South America. Peruvian balsam is a viscous, yellow-brown liquid. Peruvian balsam contains large amounts of benzyl cinnamate and benzoate. Its acid value is 60-80; saponification value 230-255. Peruvian balsam is used in perfumes, cosmetics and medicines (for the treatment of eczema).

[0114] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from d) Peruvian balsam.

[0115] e) The Balsam of Tolu

[0116] Tolu balsam is a recent resin that comes from South America (Colombia, Peru, and Venezuela). It is extracted from living trunks of the toluiferous Myroxylon type. Tolu balsam is brownish, sticky, semi-solid, slowly becoming solid and brittle. Its acid number is 112 to 168; and its saponification value is 154 - 216. Tolu balsam is soluble in ether, ethanol and alkalis. Besides the resin, the balsam contains a high proportion of benzoic and cinnamic acids, their esters, and vanillin.

[0117] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from e) Tolu balsam.

[0118] f) Benzoin resins

[0119] Benzoin resins are recent resins; they are formed only after making a wound on the tree. These are pathological resins. They occur with various botanical species of Styraceae such as Styrax tonkinensis which are found in particular in Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. More particularly Benzoin resins are chosen from (1) fairly regular rounded or flat pearls of light brown color (their odor is similar to vanilla); and (2) in the form of more irregular yellow, orange, brown to reddish crystals (impure). Its odor is balsamic, resinous and spicy, slightly vanilla. Differences exist between Benzoin resins from Siam, Sumatra and Benzoin resin from Penang. Benzoin resin from Sumatra contains cinnamic acid in addition to benzoic acid. Sumatran Benzoin resin is soluble in alcohol at about 75% by weight.Benzoin de Siam resin is soluble up to 90%.

[0120] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from f) Benzoin resins.

[0121] g) Canada Balsam

[0122] Canada balsam is a recent resin that comes from Abies balsamea (balsam fir, Abies canadiensis), which occurs in Canada and the United States. It is extracted by tapping fir trees by making cuts under the bark. Canada balsam is a liquid that is colorless to greenish, viscous, and slowly solidifying.

[0123] Properties. Canada balsam has an acidity index of 82 - 87 and a saponification index of 89 -100; density 0.985 - 0.995 g / cm3; a refractive index 1.5180 - 1.5210 (similar to glass); it is highly soluble in ethanol. Canada balsam belongs to the terpene hydrocarbons.

[0124] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from g) Canada balsam.

[0125] h) Copal resins or copals

[0126] Copals is the generic term to define recent natural fossil resins with different structures, qualities and botanicals depending on their geographical origins: Kauri copal resins, Manila copal resins, West African copals (for example, copals from Congo, Angola or Cameroon), copals from East Africa (e.g., Zanzibar or Madagascar Copal), South American copals (e.g., Brazilian or Colombian copal).

[0127] Kauri, Manila and Congo copals are the most important; other types are described in the works H.E. Scheiber: Zerbe, Orerai die und verwandte Produkte, 2nd ed., Springer Verlag, Berlin 1969, p. 698. J. Scheiber: Lacke und ihre Rohstoffe, Verlag Johann Ambrosius Barth, Leipzig 1926. Most types of copal are poorly soluble in common solvents and poorly compatible in oils.

[0128] hl) Kauri Copal resin.

[0129] There are several different types of Kauri copal resin. They all come from the Kauri spruce (Agathis australis) tree grown in New Zealand.

[0130] Resins are either extracted (fossils), or come from digging in the topsoil (bush copal, recent - fossil), or harvested from living trees (copal tree, recent). Kauri copal is whitish yellow, but can also be dark; the surface is patinated and opaque.

[0131] The acid number is 50 to 100; the saponification value, 75 - 120; and the softening point, 110 - 115 °C (Kraemer Samow). Kauri copal is completely soluble in higher alcohols (C number > 4), moderately soluble in lower alcohols (C < or = 4) and sparingly soluble in aromatic and aliphatic solvents.

[0132] Manila copal resin is a recent fossil resin, which is isolated from Dammara orientalis, which occurs in the Philippines and Indonesia.

[0133] Manila copal is harvested from living trees. A soft, alcohol-soluble resin is obtained, which is insoluble in aromatic and aliphatic solvents. Manila copal resin (loba) is semi-hard and insoluble in ethanol. Manila copal can be melted, resulting in losses of up to 20%. It is a yellowish, often reddish to dark resin. The main component is agathene dicarboxylic acid (C20H30O4), derived from diterpenes, which is also present in Kauri copal.

[0134] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from copal resins h.

[0135] i) Damars

[0136] Damars are recent fossil resins which are obtained from trees of the Dipterocarpaceae family. Preferably the damar of the invention are chosen from the damar of Batavia, and of Thailand. The latter are white. According to another embodiment the damar of the invention are chosen from the damar of East India and Sumatra. The latter are brown and black.

[0137] White damars are irregular in shape, with transparent pieces of yellowish-white or reddish color of different sizes. Generally they have a composition with: between 30 and 50% (such as 40%) by weight of a-damar resin (soluble in alcohol); between 20 and 25% by weight (such as 22.5%) of b-damar resin (insoluble in alcohol); between 20% and 30% by weight (such as 23.0%) of damarol acid C30H50O6 (a compound with one carboxy and four hydroxyl groups); between 1 and 5% by weight (such as 2.5%) of water; between 2 and 10% by weight (such as 3.5%) of ash; between 5% and 15% by weight (such as 8.0%) of impurities; and between 0.1 and 1% by weight (such as 0.5%) of essential oils.

[0138] White damars have a melting point Mp of 80 - 90 °C (capillary), an acid number ranging from 20 to 30 and a saponification value between 35 and 60; they are soluble in aromatic solvents, pentanol, pentyl acetate and carbon disulfide; sparingly soluble in other alcohols such as ethanol, ethyl acetate, ethers, ketones and aliphatic solvents. They are made compatible by heating with alkyd resins and oils.

[0139] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from i) damars.

[0140] j) The elemis

[0141] "Ëlemis" is the generic term to define the group of recent natural resins Derived from plants of the Burseraceae (Canarium indicum) family. Each type is described according to its country of origin. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the elemi resin used comes from the Philippines, particularly Manila elemi. To extract it, the trees are injured and a pathological resin discharge appears, which solidifies over time. Elemi are yellowish to greenish in color, opaque, ointment-like, sticky, and solidify into brownish resins dotted with crystals.

[0142] Elemis are soluble in aromatic solvents, alcohols, esters and carbon disulfide; and less soluble in aliphatic solvents. Elemis have an acid number between 18 and 34, a saponification value between 25 and 60, and a softening point of approx. 80. Balms exuding from elemis contain up to 30% essential oils.

[0143] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from elemi, in particular elemi from the Canarium Luzonicum family in its pure form or mixed with a latex, for example. Mention may be made of the elemi resin from Canarium Luzonicum marketed under the name ELEMI RESIN.

[0144] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from j) elemis.

[0145] k) Incense (Oliban)

[0146] Incense is found in the United Arab Emirates, Oman, Somalia, Ethiopia and eastern India. Frankincense resins are recent and derived from tree incense Boswellia carterii. Frankincense resins are also found in the Amazon. The bark is intentionally injured to obtain a milky extract, which is recovered after drying. Preferably, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from frankincense, particularly from the Amazon.

[0147] Frankincense resins are pale yellow, form irregular rounded or globular beads. They generally contain 20% to 40% by weight (approx. 33%) of boswellic acid (C32H52O4). Incenses have an acid number between 30% and 50% (indirect) and are moderately soluble in ethanol in alkaline media.

[0148] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from incense, in particular Amazonian incense resins marketed under the name Protium heptaphyllum resin, or PROTIUM RESIN, or WHITE BREU RESIN, and incense resins from the Sal tree, Shorea robusta.

[0149] Advantageously, the resin(s) are in a mixture with one or more fatty substances as defined below according to the invention, preferably chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils. Examples that may be mentioned are Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil (SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL, TOCOPHEROL: 50-75% by weight shorea robusta resin, 25-50% by weight sunflower seed oil) marketed under the name KAHLRESIN 6720, and Shorea robusta resin with octyldodecanol (SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN and OCTYLDODECANOL 50-70% by weight shorea robusta resin, 30-50% by weight octyldodecanol) marketed by KAHLRESIN 6720.

[0150] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from k) incense.

[0151] 1) The Galbanums

[0152] Galbanum resins are recent resins obtained from various Iranian Ferula species, for example Ferula galbaniflua.

[0153] Galbanums exude spontaneously from the bark like milk. They are collected in the form of gum resins after drying. They are brownish to greenish yellow, with regular shapes in pearls or rounded tears;

[0154] Older resins are darker.

[0155] Galbanums contain 50-70% by weight (approx. 60-65%) resin, 30-50% by weight (such as 35-40%) vegetable gum, 3-15% by weight (such as 6-10%) essential oils; Mp: 100°C.

[0156] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from 1) galbanums.

[0157] m) Labdanums

[0158] Labdanum is a recent gum resin from the leaves of various species of Cistacea (rock rose), a shrub from the Mediterranean region.

[0159] n) Mastics or sealants

[0160] Mastic resins or "mastic" are recent resins harvested from the bark of Pistacia lentiscus. This shrub is found throughout the Mediterranean region. The resin is greenish-yellow in color and soluble in alcohols, aromatic solvents and terpenes. Its acid number is 50 to 70; the saponification value, 60 - 90; Mp, approx. 105 °C (capillary).

[0161] o) Myrrh

[0162] Myrrh is a recent tree resin from various Commiphora species. The resin comes from southern Arabia and Somalia and was known in biblical times. Myrrh is exuded from the plant as milk and dries to form beads, which are then collected. Myrrh occurs as irregular, rounded beads or lumps of orange-brown color with lighter areas and a bitter taste. A variety of myrrh oil can be found, and contains up to 10% of it (a mixture of terpenes and sesquiterpenes).

[0163] p) The Sandarac

[0164] Sandarac (from the ancient Greek oavôapàKr| / sandarâkê, realgar) is a recent resin originating from Callitris quadrivalvis, a species of cypress found in Australia, North America and North Africa. It has a pleasant odor, is lemon yellow in color, is soluble in ethanol and diethyl ether, and is insoluble in water. Sandarac has a mp. 135 °C (capillary); an acid number of 115 to 150; and a saponification value of 145 - 155. The main ingredient of sandarac is sandaracopimaric acid (C20H30O2).

[0165] q) Shellacs

[0166] Shellacs are recent resins of animal origin that occur in India and Thailand. Shellac is produced by the female of the cochineal of the genus Kerria lacca that lives in the forests of Southeast Asia (especially in the Assam region and in Thailand). The insect settles on the trunks of trees (ficus and aleurites) and attaches itself thanks to a resin that it secretes. They are harvested from empty shells of certain trees (Coccus laccaor Laccifer lacca). The resins are then excreted from the juice of empty shell. The word "laksham" means 100,000, because thousands of these shells cover the branches of trees (hence the term sticklac). The harvest is carried out twice a year (April - May; November - December). Shellacs typically contain between 50% and 90% by weight (preferably 60-80%) of pure shellac and 1-10% by weight (preferably 4-6%) of shellac waxes.Purified resins are also known as pearl lacquer which comprise 80 to 95% by weight (preferably 85 to 90%) of . pure shellac, and 2 to 10% by weight (preferably 5 to 8%) of shellac wax, and 0.5 to 4% by weight (preferably 2 to 3%) of impurities. They can be dewaxed by dissolving them in aqueous sodium carbonate or by selective dissolution with certain solvents. Shellacs can be treated with alkali or alkaline earth metal hypochlorite, particularly to obtain a light color.

[0167] Shellacs are found as bright orange or brown, shiny, transparent flakes. The different grades are Indian button (handmade) and shellac sheet; machine-treated shellac sheet with or without wax; bleached shellac; and special shellac (water-soluble). Special shellacs have been pretreated with alkaline agents or amines, and can dissolve in water.

[0168] Shellacs have a Tm of 65 - 77 °C; an acid number value of 67 to 90; and a saponification number between 190 and 260. They are soluble in ethanol, glycol ethers, acetic acid and alkaline water; and insoluble in aliphatics and aromatics. Shellacs attack iron in alcoholic solution. Some shellacs lose their solubility (over the years) due to polycondensation. The resins contain a hydroxycarboxylic acid with five hydroxyl groups, which leads to polycondensation.

[0169] r) Styrax (Storax)

[0170] Styrax or "storax" is a recent resin isolated from the bark of Liquidambar orientalis (family Hamamelidaceae), produced in Asia Minor. Styrax is taken from the living tree once the tree has been injured.

[0171] Styrax is often called benzoic resin, it is aromatic, semi-solid and has a yellowish-brown color. It contains large amounts of cinnamic acid and its derivatives. Its acid number is approx. 105.

[0172] s) Venetian Turpentine (Larch, Turpentine Essence)

[0173] Recent Venetian turpentine resin is extracted from the Larix europaea tree found in Europe.

[0174] t) Rosins

[0175] Preferably the natural resin(s) are chosen from rosin. Rosin are recent resins, from renewable resources, and can be modified (e.g. esterified, hydrogenated, substituted).

[0176] Rosin gums are preferably purified, distilled, from the balsam of various pine essences (up to 80 different species).

[0177] Their composition is determined by climate, soil composition, and other botanical and meteorological factors. For example, rosins from Pinus austriaca (black pine) Austria, Central America, caribaea (slash pine), United States, Caribbean, densiflora Japan, elliottii United States, halepensis (Aleppo pine) Greece, Portugal, Spain, langifolia India, maritima (seashore pine) France, Spain, Portugal, massoniana (Chinese red pine) China, mercusii Indonesia, Burma, Philippines, nigra (black pine) Austria, oocarpa Central America, Honduras, palustris (swamp pine), United States, (longleaf pine), pseudostrobus Central America, Mexico, sylvestris (Scots pine) Germany, Poland, tonkinensis China, yunnanensis China.

[0178] The average composition is approx. 70-75% rosin and 20-25% turpentine.

[0179] Wood rosin [8050-09-7]

[0180] Rosin comes from stumps in the USA that have remained in the ground for at least 10 years so that the resin-rich heartwood is available.

[0181] The pine stumps contain between 10 and 30% by weight (approx. 19% rosin), between 1 and 10% by weight (preferably 4%) of turpentine oil, between 1 and 10% by weight (preferably 4%) of resins insoluble in petroleum ether, between 20 and 30% by weight (preferably 23%) of water and between 40 and 60% by weight (preferably 50%) of cellulose and lignin type.

[0182] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosins.

[0183] u) Tall oils rosin (Rosin and rosinate) [8052-10-6]

[0184] Rosin tall oils often contain small amounts of higher fatty acids, particularly with a carbon atom number greater than or equal to 6 carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, the rosin tall oils are free of oxocarboxylic acid. In particular, they are soluble in organic solvents.

[0185] The rosin resins of the invention comprise in particular rosin acids belonging to terpenes. The numbering of the carbon atoms in the rosin acid molecules is indicated using abietic acid as an example.

[0186] Rosin acids have the molecular chemical formula C2o H30 O2 and therefore belong to the diterpene family (four isoprene units). A large number of isomers exist of tricyclic rosin acids which differ in the position of the two double bonds.

[0187] Advantageously, said resin according to the invention is chosen from: gum rosin obtained by incision on living trees, wood rosin which is extracted from stumps or pine wood, and tall oil rosin which is obtained from a by-product from paper production. Advantageously, said resin(s) comprise rosin acids; preferably mainly chosen from abietic type and pimaric acid; and in particular chosen from: levopimaric acid, neoabietic acid, abietic acid, dehydroabietic acid, tetrahydroabietic acid, dihydroabietic acid, dextropimaric acid, isodextropimaric acid; or palustric acid; and mixtures thereof.

[0188] The rosin derivatives may be derived in particular from the polymerization, hydrogenation and / or esterification (for example with polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol) of rosin acids. Examples that may be mentioned are the rosin esters marketed under the reference FORAL 85, PENTALYN H and STAYBELITE ESTER 10 by the company HERCULES; SYLVATAC 95 and ZONESTER 85 by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL or UNIREZ 3013 by the company UNION CAMP.

[0189] According to one embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosinates (salts of alkaline agents of rosin acids, in particular salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, alkaline earth metals such as calcium, or metals such as zinc or magnesium).

[0190] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosin acid esters, in particular rosin acid esters as defined above and (C1-C6) alkanol, polyhydroxy(Cl-C6)alkane polyols such as glycerol, pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from glyceryl rosinate sold under the name RESIESTER GUM A 35, glyceryl rosinate mixed with a hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor seed oil (GLYCERYL ROSINATE, RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL, HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL sold under the name EFP BIOTEK) pentaerythrityl rosinate sold under the name RESIESTER N 35 S and RESIESTER 80.

[0191] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from poly(carboxy)(C2-C6)alkane or poly(carboxy)(C2-C6)alkene adducts, in particular of maleic acids with rosin acids.

[0192] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosins modified by phenols. In particular those modified by (Cl-C4)alkylene phenols or diphenols, optionally substituted by one or more (Cl-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl or t-butyl, more particularly rosins modified by 4-tert-butylphenol and 4,4'-isopropylidenediphenol (bisphenol A).

[0193] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from dimerized rosins; in particular those in which the abietic acid is polymerized. Preferably, the rosins contain more than 50% of dimer acids and are thus called dimerized rosins. According to one embodiment, the rosins are polymerized and contain from 30% to 90% by weight of dimer acid (in particular at least 40%, 60 or 80% of dimer acids).

[0194] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from hydrogenated rosins. The double bonds, in particular acids such as abietic acid, are subject to oxidation, which can be eliminated by hydrogenation. It is understood that the resin(s) of the invention can be esterified, salified, adducted, modified by phenols, and / or dimerized and further hydrogenated.

[0195] According to a preferred embodiment, the resin comprises at least one rosin acid ester selected from the group consisting of glyceryl rosinate, pentaerythrityl rosinate, silicone rosinate, diethylene glycol rosinate, hydrogenated dilinoleyl dimer rosinate, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosinate, glyceryl dibehenate / hydrogenated rosinate, glyceryl diisostearate / hydrogenated rosinate, trihydrogenated glyceryl rosinate, glycol rosinate, hydrogenated methyl rosinate, methyl rosinate, hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate, hydrogenated triethylene glycol rosinate; and mixtures thereof.

[0196] According to a particular embodiment, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate (PENTAERYTHRITYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE), hydrogenated methyl rosinate (METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE) marketed under the name SYMRISE BIO4326.

[0197] In addition, the resin(s) of the invention may be mixed with fatty substances c) as defined below, in particular waxes or butters. Mention may be made of mixtures of glyceryl rosinate with one or more fatty substances c) chosen in particular from waxes or butters such as the mixture with shea butter or olive oil such as (GLYCERYL ROSINATE, RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL, HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL), BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA BUTTER) GLYCERYL ROSINATE, OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) OIL UNSAPONIFIABLES GLYCERYL ROSINATE, OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) OIL UNSAPONIFIABLES marketed by SHEA BUTTER & GLYCERYL ROSINATE & OILS.

[0198] v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes

[0199] Natural plant waxes as such are not considered resins. Although they are among the substances secreted / excreted by plants and naturally contain a very low resin content, they contain less than 30% by weight of terpenes on the total weight of wax. For example, Camauba wax is naturally secreted by the leaves of a Copernica Cerifera palm to prevent the leaves from dehydrating. Candelilla wax is obtained from a shrub called Euphorbia Antisyphilitica native to Northern Mexico. The wax protects the plant from its environment and prevents excessive evaporation. For example, candelilla wax is composed mainly of hydrocarbons (about 50%, 29-chain at 33 carbon atoms), higher molecular weight esters (20-29%), free acids (7-9%), and resins (12-14%, mainly triterpene esters).

[0200] Nevertheless, the definition of "natural resins" within the meaning of the present invention also includes resins derived from vegetable waxes, when they have been previously concentrated, isolated or extracted from these waxes, provided that the resinous or terpenic ingredient considered contains the minimum terpene content (30% by weight of the total weight of the ingredient) required by the present invention. Mention may in particular be made of Candelilla resin (100% pure resin extracted from the corresponding wax), with the INCI name: EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELLILA) WAX EXTRACT, marketed under the name CANDELILLA RESIN El by JAP AN NATURAL PRODUCTS.Document WO2013 / 147113 A1 also refers to Camauba resin, a terpene resin extracted from Camauba wax, and having physical properties similar to those of the natural resins classically described, such as a softening temperature and not a melting temperature which differentiates the resin from the wax.

[0201] Table 1 of the examples shows some characteristic differences between the waxes and resins according to the invention, concerning their thermal properties.

[0202] The resins have a softening point and a glass transition temperature, but no melting temperature.

[0203] The opposite is true for waxes that have a melting temperature.

[0204] Preferably the resin(s) are chosen from the resin(s) j), k), and t) as defined above, and the resins v) extracted from waxes, in particular candelilla or camauba; and mixtures thereof. Preferred resins according to the invention#:

[0205] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from the following references, indicated by their INCI name, used alone or as a mixture:

[0206] - EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELLILA) WAX EXTRACT, such as CANDELILLA RESIN El marketed by JAPAN NATURAL PRODUCTS, BOTANICAL RESIN marketed by CERA RICA NODA, TOWAX-1F12 marketed by TOA KASEI (type v resin);

[0207] - PROTIUM HEPTAPHYLUM RESIN, or PROTIUM RESIN, or WHITE BREU RESIN, which can be marketed for example by CITROLEO or Ephyla (type k resin)

[0208] - Incense resins from the Sal tree, SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN. The or the resins may be found in a mixture with one or more fatty substances c) as defined below, preferably chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils. Examples include Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil (SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL, TOCOPHEROL: 50-75% by weight shorea robusta resin, 25-50% by weight sunflower seed oil) marketed as KAHLRESIN 6720, and Shorea robusta resin with octyldodecanol (SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN and OCTYLDODECANOL 50-70% by weight shorea robusta resin, 30-50% by weight octyldodecanol) marketed as KAHLRESIN 6720 (k-type resin)

[0209] - rosin acid esters such as GLYCERYL ROSINATE marketed under the name RESIESTER GUM A 35, glyceryl rosinate mixed with a hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor seed oil (GLYCERYL ROSINATE, RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL, HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL marketed under the name EFP BIOTEK), pentaerythrityl rosinate marketed under the name RESIESTER N 35 S and RESIESTER 80 or hydrogenated rosinates such as hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate (PENTAERYTHRITYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE), hydrogenated methyl rosinate (METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE) marketed under the name SYMRISE BIO4326 (t-type resin).

[0210] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELLILA) WAX EXTRACT.

[0211] Advantageously, the resin(s) is(are) present in the composition of the invention in a content within the range of 0.1% to 40%, preferably 0.5% to 35%, preferably 1% to 30%, preferably 2% to 25%, preferably 3 to 22%, and more preferably 5% to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0212] Advantageously, the composition of the present invention comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1%, preferably is free, of synthetic resin.

[0213] Advantageously, the composition of the present invention comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1%, preferably is free of silicone resin, i.e. synthetic resin in which the basic structure is a chain comprising siloxane groups (silicon-oxygen-silicon bonds). Oils

[0214] The composition of the invention comprises an oily phase, advantageously continuous, comprising at least one volatile oil chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and their mixtures.

[0215] Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure 1.013.105 Pa). It is organic, namely comprising at least carbon and hydrogen atoms and immiscible in water.

[0216] The oily phase comprises at least one volatile oil and optionally ingredients soluble or miscible in said phase.

[0217] The total concentration in oily phase of the composition of the invention is advantageously in the range of 5 to 100%, preferably 10 to 98% by weight, preferably 15 to 90% by weight, preferably 20 to 80% by weight, preferably 25 to 70% by weight, preferably 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0218] By “oil” we mean a liquid compound at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), immiscible with water.

[0219] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made by eye or by means of a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100g of mixture obtained after Rayneri stirring sufficient to cause a vortex to appear within the mixture (for information 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation. Volatile oils

[0220] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil having a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 1.3 Pa, preferably greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and preferably 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0221] Conversely, by “non-volatile oil” we mean an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa.

[0222] For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

[0223] The volatile oil or oils are preferably present in a content ranging from 1 to 90% by weight, preferably from 2 to 70%, preferably from 3 to 50%, preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, preferably from 8 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 10 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0224] The volatile oil or oils are advantageously chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils. Volatile hydrocarbon oil

[0225] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions. A hydrocarbon oil therefore does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms.

[0226] By "apolar hydrocarbon oil" is meant a hydrocarbon oil comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, preferably non-aromatic (also called hydrocarbon).

[0227] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant hydrocarbon oils comprising mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions, therefore oils with only C, H and O.

[0228] As an example of volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

[0229] - hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permethyls®,

[0230] - linear alkanes, C6-C16, for example C1-C15, alone or in mixtures, for example such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as, or n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and their mixtures as well as the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) Cetiol Ultimate® from BASF.

[0231] - volatile C5-C12 non-aromatic cyclic alkanes;

[0232] - branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate;

[0233] - short chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isobutyl acetate for example sold by SOLVAY, DOW or OXEA;

[0234] - volatile carbonate hydrocarbon oils of structure R' lO-CO-O-R'2 in in which R' 1 and R' 2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferable that R1 and R2 are identical. Preferably R'1 and R'2 denote a linear butyl alkyl radical, a pentyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dibutylcarbonate or dipentylcarbonate;

[0235] - volatile ether oils of formula R1OR2 in which RI and R2 denote independently a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferable that R1 and R2 are the same.

[0236] As a linear alkyl group, mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group. As a branched alkyl group, mention may be made of a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, especially dicaprylyl ether.

[0237] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Sol T by the company SHELL, can also be used; or volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE102008012457.

[0238] The volatile hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils of the hydrocarbon type (therefore apolar hydrocarbon oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular:

[0239] - branched C8-C16 alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures,

[0240] - linear alkanes, for example Cl 1-C15, alone or in mixtures, and

[0241] -their mixtures.

[0242] The volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) are in particular chosen from C6-C16 alkanes and in particular alkanes such as dodecane, tetradecane, isohexadecane, mixtures of undecane and tridecane, and isoparaffins such as Cl3-16 Isoparaffin.

[0243] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil(s) are linear or branched hydrocarbon oils, which are volatile, in particular chosen from undecane, decane, dodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, tridecane, tetradecane and their mixture, preferably comprising isododecane and / or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

[0244] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil(s) of the invention are a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, preferably of natural origin, the chains of which comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched C9-C12 alkanes. This mixture is notably known under the name INCI C9-C12 ALKANE, CAS 68608-12-8, VEGELIGHT SILK® marketed by BioSynthls.

[0245] According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile oil(s) are at least partially of plant origin. Volatile silicone oil

[0246] By “silicone oil” is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0247] The volatile silicone oils can be chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

[0248] Examples of such oils include octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

[0249] According to a particular form of the invention, a mixture of at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one volatile silicone oil will be used, and more particularly a mixture of isododecane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0250] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.2%, preferably less than 0.1%, by weight of silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition, and ideally the composition of the invention is free of any silicone oil.

[0251] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the volatile oil or oils are chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0252] The composition of the present invention preferably comprises isododecane.

[0253] Preferably, the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of natural resin(s) is in the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30, preferably 3 to 20; preferably 5 to 18, preferably 8 to 15.

[0254] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition may further comprise one or more non-volatile oils. Non-volatile oils

[0255] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

[0256] The non-volatile oil(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural.

[0257] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition C1 or C' 1 comprises one or more non-volatile oils.

[0258] Among the non-volatile oils, we can cite: Non-volatile silicone oils

[0259] The non-volatile silicone oil may in particular be chosen from non-volatile silicones with the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0260] These products are notably marketed under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu, marketed by Shin Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. Non-volatile fluorinated oils

[0261] By “fluorinated oil” is meant an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0262] The fluorinated oil may in particular be chosen from fluorinated polyethers, as well as from fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752. Non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0263] The non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from linear or branched compounds, of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example:

[0264] - paraffin oil,

[0265] - squalane, such as the NEOSSANCE SQUALANE reference marketed by AMYRIS,

[0266] - isoeicosane,

[0267] - linear, saturated hydrocarbons, and their mixtures, more particularly in C15-C28, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC,

[0268] - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example products from the range Indopol marketed by the company INEOS Oligomers, the products with the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE

[0269] - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example non-composites volatiles of the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS,

[0270] - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example non-compounds volatiles of the PURESYN® range marketed by the company Exxonmobil),

[0271] - decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers

[0272] - and mixtures thereof. Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0273] They can be chosen from:

[0274] - fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, C10-C26, preferably mono-alcohols. Advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as in particular lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof;

[0275] - triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters and glycerol, in particular whose fatty acids may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C8 to C36, preferably from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Examples that may be mentioned include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides; vegetable oils such as wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose; the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; as well as their mixtures;

[0276] - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol; the total number of carbon atoms being advantageously at least 10. Examples of such esters include isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, coco caprylate / caprate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, diethyl 2-hexanoate propylene glycol and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate;lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate; ;

[0277] - hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate;

[0278] - aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, benzoate of C12- C15, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate;

[0279] - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;

[0280] - esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids such as citrate of triisoarachidyl, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tri-2 decyl tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl 2 tetradecyl tetradecanoate;

[0281] - polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and / or trimer unsaturated and diol such as those with INCI name dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and diol dimer such as dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate;

[0282] - synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether;

[0283] - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate;

[0284] - vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1- copolymer hexadecene (INCI name);

[0285] - their mixtures.

[0286] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil(s) are chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, polar hydrocarbon oils as defined above, and mixtures thereof. preferably chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, polar hydrocarbon oils as defined above and their mixtures.

[0287] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol as defined above, more preferably chosen from isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, coco caprylate caprate and mixtures thereof and even better denotes isononyl isononanoate.;

[0288] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms as described above, in particular chosen from oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol such as the reference EUTANOL G marketed by BASF and mixtures thereof.

[0289] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters and glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 C8 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated as described above, preferably chosen from heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof and in addition preferentially caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as the reference PALMESTER 3585 marketed by KLK OLEO.

[0290] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils as described above, preferably chosen from mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28, polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, and mixtures thereof.

[0291] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils chosen from mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as, for example, the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, products with the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, and their mixtures.

[0292] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) c) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as, for example, the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal, products with the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, and mixtures thereof, more particularly chosen among products with the name INCI HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, mixtures with the name INCI C15-19 Alkane such as Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, isononyl isononanoate.

[0293] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) consist of one or more polar or apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils as defined above.

[0294] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil(s) comprise at least one silicone oil as defined above, preferably chosen from dimethicones, such as the BELSIL DM 5 PLUS DIMETHICONE grade marketed by Wacker, the DOWSIL SH 200 C FLUID 10 CST reference marketed by DOW CHEMICAL or the XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 1000 CST reference marketed by DOW CHEMICAL, or PHENYL TRIMETHICONE such as the DOWSIL SH 556 FLUID reference marketed by DOW CHEMICAL.

[0295] Preferably when the non-volatile oil(s) are a mixture of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil preferably chosen from apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils with at least one volatile silicone oil, the amount of silicone oil is less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0296] According to a particular form of the invention, the optional non-volatile oil(s) are present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 50%, preferably 0.2% to 40%, preferably 0.5% to 35%, preferably 1 to 30%, more preferably between 2 and 20%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0297] By weight ratio noted R, we mean the ratio of the sum of the masses of volatile oil(s) (HV) to the sum of the masses of non-volatile oil(s) HNV), defined by:

[0298] R = [Sum of HV masses] / [Sum of HNV masses].

[0299] Preferably, R is such that 0 < R < 10,000, more particularly 0.01 < R < 1000; more particularly 0.05 < R < 500; preferably 0.1 < R < 100, or even 0.5 < R < 50.

[0300] The addition of non-volatile oils tends to reduce the film's resistance to wear, so it is preferable to use them in a low content compared to that of volatile oils to maintain optimum resistance while having a comfortable skin sensation (soft, moisturizing, non-sticky sensations after applying a composition). Volatile alcohols

[0301] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile alcohol.

[0302] By “alcohol” is meant any chemical compound comprising at least one hydroxyl function in its structure.

[0303] By "volatile substance" is meant any substance capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Said volatile substance is liquid at room temperature, in particular has a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg),

[0304] By "volatile alcohol" is meant any compound having at least one hydroxyl group and where more than 95% by weight of the compound is capable of evaporating in less than one hour at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) upon contact with a keratinous material such as skin or hair, in particular capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Said volatile substance is liquid at room temperature, and preferably has a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and preferably 2.66 Pa to 8,000 Pa.

[0305] The vapor pressure can be measured by the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

[0306] The volatile alcohol(s) in accordance with the present invention are preferably chosen from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, may be chosen from methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, t-butanol; preferably chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, preferably chosen from: ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol.

[0307] Their viscosity at 20°C, measured with a HAAKE Rheostress 600 device with a 60 mm diameter rotor, an angle of 2° at a shear rate of 200 s -1 is preferably 0.3 to 3 mPa.s.

[0308] Advantageously, the volatile alcohol(s) are present in amounts ranging from 1 to 70% and more preferably from 5 to 50%, and more particularly from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. An advantage of the composition of the invention is that it can limit the level of volatile alcohol(s), which is often the cause of discomfort (dryness, tingling) without losing solubilizing power.

[0309] Preferably, the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile alcohol(s) to the quantity of natural resin(s) is in the range from 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30; preferably from 1.2 to 20; preferably from 1.5 to 15.

[0310] Preferably, the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of volatile alcohol(s) is within the range of preferably 0.01 to 100, preferably 0.1 to 10; preferably 0.5 to 5; preferably 1 to 4.

[0311] Advantageously, in the composition according to the invention, the content by weight of volatile oil(s) is greater than the content by weight of volatile alcohol(s), itself greater than the content by weight of natural resin(s), over the total weight of the composition (oil > alcohol > resin).

[0312] Thus, in the composition according to the invention, the sums (S) of the respective weight contents of volatile oil(s), volatile alcohol(s) and natural resin(s), preferably follow the rule:

[0313] S (volatile oil(s)) > S (volatile alcohol(s)) > S (natural resin(s)). The undesired properties of said volatile alcohols are counterbalanced by a judiciously chosen volatile oil content, while ensuring a sufficient content of volatile alcohol(s) to allow solubilization of the natural resin. Other possible components of the oily phase The wax(es)

[0314] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes.

[0315] By "wax" is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C and up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

[0316] In particular, the wax(es) suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.

[0317] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a wax content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 20%, more particularly from 2% to 15%.

[0318] According to a particular form of the invention, the composition of the invention is solid, in particular anhydrous. It can then be in the form of a stick. The pasty compound(s)

[0319] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more pasty compounds.

[0320] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0321] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more volatile oils, one or more non-volatile oils, optionally water and optionally one or more organic solvents different from the oils a) and alcohols b) defined according to the invention.

[0322] Advantageously, the total content of oily phase is in the range of 5 to 100%, preferably 10 to 98% by weight, preferably 20 to 95% by weight, preferably 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0323] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one continuous oily phase of composition defined above.

[0324] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of an oily composition, in particular anhydrous, such as an oily dispersion or an oily solution.

[0325] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition also has an aqueous phase.

[0326] Advantageously, the total content of oily phase is in the range of 5 to 100%, preferably 10 to 98% by weight, preferably 20 to 90% by weight, preferably 30 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0327] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients such as water-soluble solvents.

[0328] A water suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.

[0329] In the present invention, the term water-soluble solvent means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0330] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.

[0331] Among the water-soluble solvents which may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerin and dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0332] The aqueous phase is preferably present in a concentration of 2 to 95% by weight, preferably 10 to 90% by weight, preferably in the range of 20 to 80% by weight, more particularly 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Surfactants

[0333] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises one or more surfactants, preferably non-ionic, ionic or mixtures thereof.

[0334] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise a surfactant.

[0335] By "surfactant" we mean a compound that modifies the surface tension between two surfaces. The surfactant(s) are amphiphilic molecules, which have two parts of different polarity, one lipophilic (which retains fatty substances) which is apolar, the other hydrophilic (miscible or soluble in water) is polar. The lipophilic part is generally a fatty chain, and the other water-miscible part is polar, and / or protic.

[0336] By "ionic" we mean anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic.

[0337] By “fatty chain” is meant a hydrocarbon chain comprising more than 6 atoms, preferably between 6 and 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0338] Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value, HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic portion to the lipophilic portion in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W / O emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.

[0339] According to a first particular embodiment, the composition of the invention contains at least one non-ionic, silicone or non-silicone surfactant.

[0340] Among the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention, mention may be made, alone or in mixtures, of fatty alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, these 3 types of compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and having a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 2 to 30.Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (Ci0-Ci4)alkylamine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0341] The surfactant(s) represent(s) in total particularly from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, better still between 1% and 5% by weight of the composition. Pigments

[0342] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition additionally comprises at least one pigment.

[0343] Pigments are understood to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0344] Preferably, the composition comprises at least 2% of pigments, preferably at least 5% by weight of pigment(s), more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight of pigment(s), in particular from 10 to 30% by weight and preferably from 9 to 20% by weight of pigment(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0345] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0346] By mineral pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0347] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0348] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0349] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the Master Sizer 3000® type from Malvern, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range from 0.01 qm to 1000 qm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it makes it possible to determine an effective particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0350] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has

[0351] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0352] As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.

[0353] By mother-of-pearl, we mean colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0354] The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on oxychloride. of bismuth. It can also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials.

[0355] Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0356] Among the mother-of-pearls available on the market, we can cite the TIMICA®, FLAMENCO® and DUOCHROME® mother-of-pearls (mica-based) marketed by the company ENGELHARD, the TIMIRON® mother-of-pearls marketed by the company MERCK, the PRESTIGE® mica-based mother-of-pearls marketed by the company ECKART and the SUNSHINE® synthetic mica-based mother-of-pearls marketed by the company SUN CHEMICAL.

[0357] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

[0358] As an illustration of the mother-of-pearls that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made, in particular, of gold-colored mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD, under the name Brillant gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X® (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101® (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion Orange® (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) ® (Microna);brown mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-Antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite); copper-reflecting mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); red-reflecting mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona); yellow-reflecting mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) ® (Chromalite); red-reflecting mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Tan Opale G005® (Gemtone);black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu Antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna), mother-of-pearl; white with a silver sheen, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver® and the orange-pinkish, green-gold mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona) and their mixtures.

[0359] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, stabilized means devoid of the effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0360] For example, this material may be chosen from metallic sheen particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials may be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

[0361] The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from:

[0362] - particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative,

[0363] - particles comprising an organic or mineral substrate, mono-material or multi-materials, covered at least partially by at least one layer with a metallic sheen comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative, and

[0364] - mixtures of said particles.

[0365] Among the metals that may be present in said particles, there may be mentioned for example Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and their mixtures or alloys (for example, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

[0366] By metal derivatives, we mean compounds derived from metals, in particular, oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

[0367] As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those marketed under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE® by the company ECKART.

[0368] Mention may also be made of metallic copper powders or mixtures of alloys, such as references 2844 marketed by the company RADIUM BRONZE, metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those marketed under the names ROTOSAFE 700® from the company ECKART, particles of aluminum coated with silica marketed under the name VISION AIRE BRIGHT SILVER® from the company ECKART and alloy particles metallic, such as bronze powders (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold® from the Eckart company.

[0369] It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those marketed by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE®.

[0370] The goniochromatic coloring agent may be selected, for example, from interference multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

[0371] Examples of symmetrical interference multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: AFSiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR® by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL® by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name XIRONA® by the company MERCK (Darmstadt).For example, these pigments may be the silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure pigments marketed under the name XIRONA MAGIC® by MERCK, the silica / brown iron oxide structure pigments marketed under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER® by MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure pigments marketed under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE® by MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, the color goes from gold-green to gray-red for SiO2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for SiO2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.

[0372] Examples of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure include those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER®.

[0373] As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by the company CHENIX, as well as those marketed under the name HELICONE® HC by the company WACKER. Hydrophobic coated pigments

[0374] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound and in particular as detailed below.

[0375] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous insofar as it can be considered in significant quantity together with a significant quantity of water. What is more, insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show a preponderant affinity for the oily gelled phase which can then transport them.

[0376] Of course, the compositions according to the invention can at the same time contain uncoated pigments.

[0377] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0378] For the purposes of the invention, the coating of a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0379] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

[0380] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0381] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.

[0382] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight. % by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0383] The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surfactant, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

[0384] The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.

[0385] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments. Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent

[0386] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0387] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof. Silicone surfactant

[0388] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be surface-treated totally or partially with a silicone compound.

[0389] The silicone surfactants may be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

[0390] By organopolysiloxane compound is meant a compound having a structure comprising alternating silicone atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals linked to the silicon atoms. Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane

[0391] Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogensiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethyliloxanes.

[0392] The alkoxy group may be represented by the radical RO- such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

[0393] One method for surface-treating pigments with polymethylhydrogensiloxane involves dispersing the pigments in an organic solvent and then adding the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.

[0394] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, in particular chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes. Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes

[0395] Alkoxy-functional silanes are notably described by Witucki in A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxysilanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993.

[0396] Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes marketed under the references Milquet A-137® (OSI Specialities) and Prosil 9202® (PCR) can be used for coating pigments.

[0397] The use of alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive terminal group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino or imino are described in JP application H07-196946. They are also suitable for the treatment of pigments. Silicone-acrylate polymers

[0398] Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone as described in US patents 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477, and in US patents 5,219,560 and EP 0 388 582, can be used.

[0399] Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers comprising in their structure the following unit of formula (II):

[0400] [Chem. 11] Gj X)~S~G3 4 ' (He) in which the radicals Gb, which are identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C1-C10 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; the radicals G2, which are identical or different, represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one anionic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation; G4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer which can be between 10 and 350, it is an integer ranging from 0 to 50, provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0.

[0401] Preferably, the unit of formula (I) above has at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics: - the radicals Gi denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical; -n is non-zero, and the G2 radicals represent a divalent C1-C3 radical, preferably a propylene radical; -G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid type with ethylenic unsaturation, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; - G4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the (Ci-Cio)alkyl (meth)acrylate type, preferably of the isobutyl or methyl (meth)acrylate type.

[0402] Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a connecting link of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the poly(methyl meth)acrylate type.

[0403] Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a connecting link of the thiopropylene type, polymer units of the isobutyl poly(meth)acrylate type. Silicone resins

[0404] The silicone surfactant may be chosen from silicone resins such as those defined above. Fluorinated surfactant

[0405] The pigments can be surface treated totally or partially with a compound of a fluorinated nature.

[0406] The fluorinated surfactants may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropoly ethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropoly ether groups.

[0407] The term perfluoroalkyl radical means an alkyl radical in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

[0408] Perfluoropolyethers are notably described in patent application EP 0 486 135, and sold under the trade names FOMBLIN by the company MONTEFLUOS.

[0409] Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in application JP H05-86984. The perfluoroalkyl phosphate-diethanol amine marketed by Asahi Glass under the reference Asahi Guard AG530® can be used.

[0410] Among the linear perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, aromatic perfluorohydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and organoperfluorinated hydrocarbon compounds comprising at least one heteroatom.

[0411] Among the perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of the series of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

[0412] Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), mention may be made of perfluorodecalin sold under the name FLUTEC PP5 GMP by the Company RHODIA, perfluoro(methyldecalin), perfluoro(C3-C5)alkyl-cyclohexanes) such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane).

[0413] Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes, mention may be made of bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane and perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosafluoro-tetradecahydrophenanthrene.

[0414] Among the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of perfluorinated derivatives of naphthalene such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphthalene.

[0415] As examples of commercial references of pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, we can cite: - yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601® by the company Daito Kasei; - red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L® by the company Daito Kasei; -black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BL 100® by the company Daito Kasei; - titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 TiO2 CR 50® by the company Daito Kasei; -yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference Iron Oxide Yellow BF-25-3® by the company Toshiki; - DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference D&C Red 7 FHC® by Cardre Inc.; and - DC Red 6 / PTFE sold under the reference T 9506® by the company Wamer-Jenkinson. Fluorosilicone surfactant

[0416] The pigments can be surface treated totally or partially with a compound of a fluoro-silicone nature.

[0417] The fluoro-silicone compound may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyltrialkoxysilanes.

[0418] Examples of perfluoroalkyl silanes that may be mentioned are the products LP-IT® and LP-4T® marketed by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

[0419] As an example of commercial references of pigment treated with a fluoro-silicon compound, mention may be made of titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium Dioxide 100TA® by the company Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc. Other lipophilic surfactants

[0420] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from

[0421] (i) metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, and aluminum salt hydrogenated tallow glutamate;

[0422] As metallic soaps, mention may in particular be made of metallic soaps of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0423] The metal in metallic soap may in particular be zinc or magnesium.

[0424] As metallic soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof can be used.

[0425] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid.

[0426] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from iii) N-acylated amino acids or their salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0427] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

[0428] The salts of these compounds can be the salts of aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium.

[0429] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0430] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from iv) lecithin and its derivatives.

[0431] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be v) isopropyl triisostearyl titanate.

[0432] Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the commercial reference BWB0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWR0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company KOBO.

[0433] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be vi) isostearyl sebacate

[0434] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from vii) waxes natural vegetable or animal or polar synthetic waxes;

[0435] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from viii) fatty esters, in particular jojoba esters;

[0436] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from ix) phospholipids.

[0437] The waxes mentioned in the compounds cited above may be those generally used in the cosmetic field, as defined below.

[0438] They may in particular be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based and / or fluorinated, possibly comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0439] Polar wax means a wax containing chemical compounds comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; they may be, for example, alcohol, ester or carboxylic acid groups. Polar waxes do not include polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite or Fisher-Tropsch waxes.

[0440] In particular, polar waxes have an average HANSEN solubility parameter ôa at 25°C such that ôa > 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2 and better ôa > 1 (J / cm3)1 / 2: where ôp and ôh are respectively the polar and interaction-type contributions specific to the Hansen solubility parameters.

[0441] The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to HANSEN is described in the article by CM HANSEN, The three dimensional solubility parameters J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967):

[0442] - ôh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond type, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);

[0443] - ôp characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well than the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

[0444] The parameters ôp and ôh are expressed in (J / cm3)1 / 2.

[0445] A polar wax is notably made up of molecules comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N, P).

[0446] By way of illustration and not limitation of these polar waxes, mention may in particular be made of natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, montan wax.

[0447] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be coated with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; fatty esters; and mixtures thereof.

[0448] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, or with a fatty ester, in particular with a jojoba ester.

[0449] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0450] As examples of coated pigments according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI by MIYOSHI KASEI. Pigments not coated with a hydrophobic compound

[0451] As stated previously, a composition may further contain pigments not coated with a lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0452] These other pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound or uncoated.

[0453] These pigments may be mineral pigments, in particular as defined above.

[0454] These pigments can also be organic pigments.

[0455] By organic pigment is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0456] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole and phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0457] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0458] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0459] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0460] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0461] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1). Nature of the hydrophilic coating

[0462] As stated previously, these other pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0463] Said hydrophilic compound for treating a pigment on the surface to optimize its dispersion in the gelled aqueous phase is more particularly chosen from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates or polyethylene glycol derivatives.

[0464] Examples of biological polymers include polymers based on carbohydrate-type monomers.

[0465] More particularly, mention may be made of biosaccharide gum; chitosans and their derivatives, such as butoxychitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc.; chitins and their derivatives, such as carboxymethyl chitin, chitin glycolate; cellulose and its derivatives such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; distarch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galacto-arabinans; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0466] Examples of carbohydrates that may be mentioned include polyhydroxyaldehydes or polyhydroxyketones, of general formula: Cx(H2O)y

[0467] in which x and y can range from 1 to 1,000,000.

[0468] Carbohydrates can be monosaccharides, disaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0469] Examples of carbohydrates that may be mentioned include amylodextrins, betaglucans, cyclodextrins, modified corn starch, glycogen, hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropylcyclodextrin, lactose, maltitol, guanosine, glyceryl starch, Triticum Vulgare starch, trehalose, sucrose and its derivatives, raffinose, sodium chondrodin sulfate.

[0470] Also suitable as surface treatment agents are C1-C20 alkylene glycols or C1-C20 alkylene glycol ethers, alone or used in combination with tri-C1-C20 alkylsilanes.

[0471] Examples that may be mentioned are pigments surface-treated with PEG alkyl ether alkoxy silane, such as, for example, pigments treated with PEG-8-methyl ether triethoxysilane marketed by the company KOBO under the name SW pigments.

[0472] Also suitable for the invention as a surface treatment agent are silicones such as dimethicones having hydrophilic groups, also known as dimethicone copolyols or alkyl dimethicone copolyols. In particular, such dimethicones may comprise, as repeating units, C1-C20 alkylene oxides, such as ethylenic or propylenic.

[0473] As an example, mention may be made of the pigment treated with PEG-12-Dimethicone, marketed by the company SENSIENT CORPORATION, under the name LCW AQ® Pigment.

[0474] The quantity of pigments coated with at least one hydrophilic compound and / or uncoated pigments is in particular conditioned by the destination of the cosmetic composition considered and its adjustment is of course within the competence of the formulator of the composition.

[0475] According to a particular embodiment, the composition additionally comprises at least one pigment chosen from titanium dioxides and / or iron oxides, in particular coated with a hydrophobic surface treatment agent, in particular with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Additives

[0476] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products such as organic UV filters other than those described above; inorganic UV filters; moisturizing agents such as polyols such as glycerin, propanediol, pentylene glycol; fillers; coloring materials; thickening or gelling agents; preservatives, chelating agents, perfumes and mixtures thereof. Fillers

[0477] The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature, making it possible, in particular, to give them additional properties of mattness, coverage, hold and / or improved stability.

[0478] By filler is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to give body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to the makeup.

[0479] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber forms or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0480] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and, in particular, they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0481] Examples of mineral fillers include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass, and hydrophobic silica aerogels.

[0482] Examples of organic fillers include polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene, polymethyl methacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene powders (Teflon®), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), Hexamethylene Diisocyanate / Trimethylol Hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder® from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from Toshiba for example), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metallic soaps derived from organic acids. carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, PolyporeO L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in patent US5538793. It may also be cellulose powder such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads range. Silica particles

[0483] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to the silica particles chosen from the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, silica particles different from the previous ones, and mixtures thereof. i. Hydrophobic silica aerogels #

[0484] Hydrophobic silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (in particular by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the different drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

[0485] The hydrophobic silica aerogels used according to the present invention are preferably silylated silica aerogels (INCI name Silica Silylate).

[0486] By hydrophobic silica is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0487] Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7,470,725.

[0488] In particular, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxylated silica) will be used.

[0489] By hydrophobic aerogel particles is meant any particle of the aerogel type having a water absorption capacity at the WET POINT of less than 0.1 ml / g, i.e. less than 10 g of water per 100 g of particle.

[0490] The absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and noted WP, ​​corresponds to the quantity of a solvent (expressed in grams or milliliters) which must be added to 1 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the uptake of solvent (water or oil) of powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of solvent adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below:

[0491] A glass plate (25 x 25 mm) is placed on a balance and a quantity m of 1 g of powder is weighed onto the glass plate and then a solvent (water or isononyl isononanoate for example) is added drop by drop. The solvent is gradually added to the powder, mixing the mixture regularly (every 3 to 4 drops) using the spatula. The addition of solvent is stopped when a homogeneous paste is obtained. This paste must be spread on the glass plate without cracking or lumps forming. The mass of solvent required to obtain the Wet Point is noted. The average will be taken over 3 tests. Knowing the density of the solvent, the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of solvent used is deduced. The solvent intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

[0492] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention preferably have an oil absorption capacity measured at the WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 12 ml / g.

[0493] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention preferably have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 200 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D [0.5]) of less than 1500 pm and preferably ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

[0494] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in The journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0495] The sizes of the aerogel particles according to the invention can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the Master Sizer 2000® type from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an effective particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0496] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density ranging from 0.02g / cm3 to 0.10g / cm3, preferably from 0.02g / cm3 to 0.08g / cm3.

[0497] In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the packed density: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; then the cylinder is placed on the STAV 2003® device from STAMPF VOLUMETER; the cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 tampings (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of tamped powder is measured directly on the cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g).

[0498] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume Svallant of 5 to 60 m / cm , preferably of 10 to 50 m / cm and better still of 15 to 40 m / cm .

[0499] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: Sv = SM.p where p is the tapped density expressed in g / cm3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.

[0500] According to a particular embodiment, the aerogel particles used are inorganic and more particularly hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having the properties stated above.

[0501] As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0502] Mention may also be made of the aerogels marketed by the company Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201®, AEROGEL OGD 201® and AEROGEL TLD 203®, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200®.

[0503] More particularly, use will be made of the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270® (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0504] Aerogel marketed under the name Enova® will also be used. Aerogel MT 1100® (INCI name Silica Silylate), by CABOT, whose particles have an average size ranging from 2-25 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0505] The hydrophobic aerogel particles represent from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Other silica particles

[0506] Other usable silicas may be natural and untreated. Examples include the silicas offered under the names SILLITIN N85®, SILLITIN N87®, SILLITIN N82®, SILLITIN V85® and SILLITIN V88® by the company HOFFMANN MINERAL.

[0507] They can be pyrogenated.

[0508] Pyrogenic silicas can be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a significant number of silanol groups on their surface. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

[0509] The hydrophobic groups can be: (a) trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called Silica Silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). ; (b) dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called Silica Dimethyl Silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995).

[0510] As silica powders other than silica aerogels, we can more particularly cite: - porous silica microspheres sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700® by the company MYOSHI; SUNSPHERE® H51, SUNSPHERE® H33 by the company ASAHI GLASS; - amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name SA SUNSPHERE® H 33®, SA SUNSPHERE® H53® by the company AGC SITECH; - precipitated silica microspheres, for example coated with mineral wax such as polyethylene and notably sold under the name ACEMATT OK 412® by the company EVONIK DEGUSSA.

[0511] As silica powder, we will more particularly use porous silica microspheres such as those sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700® by the company MYOSHI; SUNSPHERE® H51, SUNSPHERE® H33 by the company AGC SITECH.

[0512] The silica particles other than the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and most preferably ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0513] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention will comprise a mixture comprising at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles such as those described previously and other silica particles such as those described previously, in particular porous silica microspheres. Additional coloring matters

[0514] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional coloring material and preferably in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0515] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the skills of those skilled in the art.

[0516] The additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble but also fat-soluble.

[0517] By water-soluble coloring matter, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

[0518] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

[0519] Water-soluble colorants are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

[0520] By liposoluble coloring matter, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.

[0521] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes, synthetic or natural, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ([3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin. Form of the composition

[0522] The composition of the invention may be in the form of an anhydrous composition, a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0523] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition is single-phase oily.

[0524] According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an aqueous phase, in which case it is preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, or optionally a composition with several separate phases (such as a two-phase).

[0525] By “water-in-oil” or W / O or W / O emulsion is meant a composition comprising an immiscible oily phase and an aqueous phase; the aqueous phase being dispersed in the form of droplets in the oily phase (called continuous) so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.

[0526] Galenic forms with a continuous oily phase are preferred in the case of the composition of the invention where the performance driver of the hold is provided by the natural resin solubilized in the oily phase. These forms also promote the dispersion of the pigments, their homogeneity and thus optimize the coverage obtained for the film obtained after application of the composition according to the invention (as demonstrated in the examples).

[0527] The composition of the present invention is particularly suitable for the manufacture of cosmetic products with fluid textures. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is more particularly in the form of a viscoelastic liquid of viscous fluid whose modulus G* (viscoelastic modulus) is between 0.1 and 20,000 Pa, more particularly between 1 and 5,000 Pa, or even between 10 and 1,000 Pa. The modulus G* is measured with an imposed stress rheometer and the values ​​are taken on the viscoelastic plateau at 25°C. Applications

[0528] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for caring for the skin, body or face, in particular the face.

[0529] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

[0530] Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be presented in the form of a base composition for makeup.

[0531] A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a liquid product for lip makeup, in particular in the form of a liquid lipstick.

[0532] According to another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for the skin and in particular for the face. It may thus be a foundation, an eyeshadow or a blush.

[0533] It may also be a mascara, an eyeliner, a concealer or corrector, an eyebrow product, a skin care product, a sun product, or a hygiene product, or even a hair styling product, or hair coloring.

[0534] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0535] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a mass percentage. Examples

[0536] The following examples allow a better understanding of the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Ingredients#:

[0537] [Tableauxl] GLYCERYL ROSINATE PROTIUM HEPTYL METHYL LAURATE RESIN CANDELILL A Resin C Resin B Resin A wax Melting point (Tf) °C - - - 66-71 Softening point °C 86 84-88 42 40-45 45-52 Glass transition temperature (Tg) °C 43 40-45 51 48-55 34 -

[0538] [Tables2] Resin INCI Name Trade Name Supplier A EUPHORBIA CERI FERA (CANDELILL A) WAX EXTRACT CANDELILLA RES IN El JAPAN NATURAL PRODUCTS B PROTIUM HEPTAP HYLLUM RESIN CITROBREU CITROLEO C GLYCERYL ROSIN ATE RESIESTER GUM A 35 LURESA RESINAS SL

[0539] Ethanol (volatile alcohol) and isododecane (volatile oil) were used to solubilize each resin. Example 1 - Solubility Test

[0540] Procedure and equipment used for each test:

[0541] Each resin (A, B, C) was solubilized respectively in a mixture of ethanol and isododecane at room temperature, according to the weight proportions indicated for each line (No. 1 to 21) of the following table 1.

[0542] Protocol:

[0543] - The dissolution of each resin was carried out under magnetic stirring of 1200 rpm, for 24 hours at room temperature of 25°C, in 20 ml bottles.

[0544] - Room temperature solubility of resins in cosmetic solvents volatiles was assessed visually, and the following solubility scale was established:

[0545] Soluble - transparent solution

[0546] Partially soluble - opaque solution

[0547] Insoluble - presence of pieces of raw material

[0548] Result of visual evaluation of the solubility of resins

[0549] [Tables3] ABC Test No. Resin %mass Ethanol %mass ISODO - DE CANE % mass EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRA CT PROTIUM H EPTAPHYLL UM RESIN GLYCERYL ROSINATE 1 5.56 94.44 0.00 Insoluble (opaque, lumps) Soluble Insoluble (deposit of material at the bottom) 2 5.56 83.33 11.11 Part, (opaque) Soluble Insoluble (deposit of material at the bottom) 3 5.56 72.22 22.22 Part, (slightly opaque) Soluble Insoluble (opaque, lump x) 4 5.56 66.67 27.78 Part, (very slightly opaque) Soluble Part, (very slight deposit of material at the bottom) 5 5.56 61.11 33.33 Part, (very slightly opaque) Soluble Soluble 6 5.56 55.56 38.89 Soluble Soluble Soluble 7 5.56 50.00 44.44 Soluble Soluble Soluble 8 5.56 38.89 55.56 Soluble Soluble Soluble 9 5.56 27.78 66.67 Soluble Soluble Soluble 10 5.56 16.67 77.78 Soluble Soluble Soluble 11 5.56 11.11 83.33 Part, (very slightly opaque) Soluble Soluble 12 5.56 5.56 88.89 Insoluble (more water) Insoluble (opaque, pieces) Soluble 13 5.56 2.78 91.67 Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble (pieces) 14 5.56 0.00 94.44 Insoluble Insoluble (deposit of material at the bottom) Insoluble (opaque, piece x) 15 11.11 44.44 44.44 Soluble Soluble Soluble 16 16.67 41.67 41.67 Soluble Soluble Soluble 17 22.22 38.89 38.89 Soluble Soluble Soluble 18 27.78 36.11 36.11 Soluble Soluble Soluble 19 33.33 33.33 33.33 Soluble Soluble Soluble 20 38.89 30.56 30.56 Soluble Insoluble (more white water) Soluble 21 44.44 27.78 27.78 Soluble Insoluble (more white waters) Soluble ,

[0550] The mixture of a volatile alcohol and a volatile alkane used according to the invention makes it possible to solubilize natural resins at room temperature (25°C), even for low volatile alcohol contents (5.56% for GLYCERYL ROSINATE, 11.1% for PROTIUM HEPTAPHYLLUM RESIN, 16.67% for EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT).

[0551] The 5.56% candelilla resin is soluble or at least partially soluble in the ethanol range of 11.1% to 83.3% by weight of ethanol.

[0552] The 5.56% protium heptaphillum resin is soluble or at least partially soluble in the ethanol range of 11.1% to 94.4% by weight of ethanol.

[0553] The 5.56% glyceryl rosinate resin is soluble between 5.56% by weight and 66.7% by weight of ethanol;

[0554] The % contents are by weight on the total weight of the ternary composition representing 100%.

[0555] Taking these results into account, the preferred solubilization range of these three resins is, for ethanol, between 11.1% and 66.7% for 5.56% of resin.

[0556] In a 50 / 50 by weight mixture of ethanol and isododecane, the resins are soluble at concentrations up to 44.4% for candelilla resin and glyceryl rosinate resin. Comparative test based on wax (Cp22)#:

[0557] Tests carried out under the same conditions for 5.56% by weight of candelilla wax (instead of candelilla resin) showed that the wax is not soluble in ethanol, nor in isododecane, nor in all ethanol / isododecane mixtures.

[0558] The mixture of volatile alcohol and volatile alkane according to the invention makes it possible to solubilize natural resins and, consequently, to optimize the spreading properties of these resins during and after the application of the compositions.

[0559] Example 2 - (In vitro) contrast card hold test

[0560] Natural resin compositions solubilized in a volatile oil mixture and volatile alcohol, are evaluated for their resistance to friction, by colorimetric measurements on dry film before and after abrasion, a test whose protocol is detailed below.

[0561] The following colored raw materials are added to the compositions of the examples:

[0562] - the organic pigment RED 7 or

[0563] - the mineral pigments Coated iron oxides.

[0564] The colored compositions are produced according to the same protocol as described previously, using a rotor-stator at room temperature (25°C) to incorporate these pigments into each composition tested.

[0565] Protocol for spreading compositions into a film:

[0566] The products are spread on a spreading bench (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) allowing its speed and the distance over which it is spread to be adjusted. The bench is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump so that the support where the spreading is done does not move. Contrast cards with a black background and an unvarnished white background are used (1 byko-chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831). The thickness The spreading speed is adjustable using the square spreader placed on the support so as to spread by leveling when the platform is switched on. Each slice of the spreader allows spreading with a different thickness ranging from 25 μm to 200 μm. The chosen thickness is 25 μm in order to get closer to the thickness of the film in vivo. A weight of 960 g is added on top of the spreader during spreading. The spreading speed is set to lin / sec, or 2.54 cm / s. The films are dried for 24 hours at 34°C and ambient RH on a heating plate.

[0567] Friction resistance test protocol:

[0568] The friction resistance test is carried out by colorimetric measurements on dry film before and after abrasion. The abrasion is carried out by fixing a strip of tissue on the spreader edge at 25pm. The weight of 960g is added over the spreader during abrasion. The bench speed is set at 2.54cm / s.

[0569] The color measurement before and after abrasion is done with the Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. The contact measurement ensures the absence of light pollution.

[0570] Selected settings: Aperture 8 mm; Uncertainty: 0.04; SCI / SCE measurement; Geometry d / 8°.

[0571] The color measurements on the two backgrounds (black background FN and white background FB) make it possible to characterize the coverage of a foundation by calculating the “contrast ratio”, (CR%), i.e. YFN / YFB x 100, where YFN and YFB are respectively the luminance values ​​measured on a black background and the white background, the latter being higher the more covering the foundation is.

[0572] In order to evaluate the resistance to friction, the "Contrast Ratio" respectively before friction (CR Dry Deposition, %) and after abrasion (CR Rub Dry Deposition, %) are measured. The ratio [CR Rub Dry Deposition / CR Dry Deposition] *100, in percentage, indicates the resistance of the film to friction: the higher this ratio, the more resistant the film is to friction.

[0573] Note: Regarding the obtaining of each Contrast Ratio value, at least 2 contrast maps are used for each composition, which are evaluated with 3 CR measurements on each map. Each CR value therefore represents an average of 6 measurements.

[0574] Friction resistance results of the tested compositions

[0575] [Tables4] Test No. Candelilla Resin (% wt) Ethanol (% wt) Isododecane (% wt) RED 7 CI 15850 (% wt) [CR Frot Deposit Dry / CR Deposit Dry]*100, % Standard Deviation Ex23 10 40 40 10 80.3 3.6 Ex24 7.5 41.25 41.25 10 88.5 5.2 Ex25 5 42.5 42.5 10 61.2 3.9 Ex26 2.5 43.75 43.75 10 64.1 2.5 Ex27 1 44.5 44.5 10 55.2 2.6 Cp28 0 45 45 10 50.0 2.1 Test No. Candelilla Resin (% wt.) Ethanol (% wt.) Isododecane (% wt.) Coated Iron Oxides* [CR Frot Deposition Dry / CR Deposition Dry]*100, % Standard Deviation Ex29 10 40 40 10 97.4 2.3

[0576] *Iron oxide coated with INCI Name: IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE.

[0577] Candelilla resin-based deposits exhibit improved friction resistance from 1% by weight of resin in the composition. The friction resistance is particularly high (at least 80%) for film deposits made from compositions according to the invention comprising at least 7.5% by weight of resin (Ex24), with an iso-content of volatile alcohol (Ex24: 41.25%) and volatile oil (Ex24: 41.25%), see also Ex29 using other pigments. Example 3 - Stickiness Test Stickiness Measurement Protocol

[0578] The support used is a strip of “Supplale”: imitation leather sheet (polyurethane glued to cotton-polyester fabric) in white and dimensions 150mmx25mm, sold under the name Supplale, code DFSUP15025B, supplier Soudotique).

[0579] The product is deposited on the Supplale strip over a length of 10 cm using an applicator so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit (4 passes of the applicator over the entire length, re-immersing the applicator in the product between passes). The support with the sample is left to dry on a thermostatically controlled plate at 32°C and ambient RH for 1 hour. The test piece is then placed on the base of the texturometer or on a metal plate with double-sided tape to hold it in place. The stickiness measurement is carried out using a TAXT2 plus type texturometer. The 20 mm diameter mobile (tip) containing a fixed round of white Supplale® is positioned on the texturometer.

[0580] The parameters of the compression tests with time hold are as follows: Approach speed (or pre-speed): 1 mm / s; Speed ​​(from contact detection): 0.5 mm / s; Force: 800g; Hold time: 5 s; Withdrawal speed (or post-speed): 40mm / s.

[0581] The stickiness is characterized by the detachment work measured during discharge (tensile phase), corresponding to the integral of the curve under the time axis. This work is expressed positively in joules per square meter. The lower the work value, the less sticky the deposit.

[0582] [Tables5] INCI (US / EU) Chemical Name Ex30 Ex31 ALCOHOL DENAT. ETHYL ALCOHOL ABS OLU DENATURE 30 30 ISODODECANE ISODODECANE 50 52.5 EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CA NDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT / EUPHORBIA CERIFERA CE RA EXTRACT RESIN EXTRACTED FROM CANDELILLA WAX 10 7.5 RED 7 / CI 15850 CALCIUM SALT OF LITHOL RED B 10 10 Stickiness at 60min (J / m2) 0.12 0.12 Standard deviation (J / m2) 0.01 0.01

[0583] The determined stickiness limit is 1.5 J / m2. Beyond this, the deposit becomes noticeably sticky.

[0584] All deposits show an absence of stickiness after the films have dried (at 60 min).

[0585] The test results in the table above show that the film deposited from each of the compositions (Ex30 and Ex31) according to the invention does not exhibit a sticky effect (0.12 J / m2).

Claims

67 Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a- at least one volatile oil, b- at least one volatile alcohol, and c- at least one natural resin, in which the weight ratio of the total quantity of volatile oil(s) and volatile alcohol(s) to the quantity of natural resin(s) is greater than 1; the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of volatile alcohol(s) being in the range from 0.5 to 5; the “volatile” oil, respectively the “volatile” alcohol, designating an oil, respectively an alcohol, having a vapor pressure in the range from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure; said composition containing less than 10% by weight of silicone oil on the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which: - the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of natural resin(s) is greater than 0.5; preferably greater than 1; and - the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile alcohol(s) to the quantity of natural resin(s) is greater than 0.5; preferably greater than 1.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and their mixtures, preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably chosen from C8-C16 isoalkanes, in particular the volatile hydrocarbon oil is isododecane.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) are at least partially of plant origin.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of natural resin(s) is included in the range from 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30, preferably from 3 to 20; preferably from 5 to 18, preferably from 8 to 15.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile alcohol is chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, preferably chosen from: ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, and mixtures thereof; preferably ethanol.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile alcohol(s) to the quantity of natural resin(s) is in the range from 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30; preferably from 1.2 to 20; preferably from 1.5 to 15.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of volatile alcohol(s) is in the range from 1 to 4.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content by weight of volatile oil(s) is greater than the content by weight of volatile alcohol(s), itself greater than the content by weight of natural resin(s), over the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one resin is chosen from: a) acaroid resins, b) ambers, c) asphaltite and gilsonite, d) Peruvian balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) Benzoin resins, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins, i) damars, j) elemis, k) incenses, 1) galbanums, m) labdanums, n) mastics o) Myrrh, p) Sandarac, q) Shellacs, r) Styrax, s) Turpentine, t) colophony, in particular Rosin, rosinate and Tall oils, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes, and mixtures of these resins; preferably the natural resin(s) are chosen from j), k), t) and v), and mixtures of these resins; said resins may in particular be esterified, salified, adducted, modified by phenols, dimerized and / or hydrogenated.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one resin with an INCI name comprising at least one of the following terms: EUPHORBIA CERIFERA WAX EXTRACT, CANDELLILA WAX EXTRACT, PROTIUM HEPTAPHYLLUM RESIN, SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN, or GLYCERYL ROSINATE; and their mixtures.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin contains at least 30% of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpene compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% of terpene compounds, by weight of the total weight of resin.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin comprises at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, of polyterpene compounds, on the total weight of the resin representing 100%.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin comprises less than 70% by weight of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, on the total weight of the resin representing 100%, preferably less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, on the total weight of the resin representing 100%.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin contains at least one diterpene compound; preferably derived from abietic acid; in particular natural or chemically modified; preferably chosen from rosin resins, in particular said resins comprise rosin acids, preferably mainly chosen from acids of abietic type and pimaric type, their derivatives in particular resulting from the polymerization, hydrogenation and / or esterification of rosin acids, for example with polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol; and mixtures thereof;preferably said resin contains at least one rosin acid ester selected from the group consisting of glyceryl rosinate, pentaerythrityl rosinate, silicone rosinate, diethylene glycol rosinate, dilinoleyl dimer hydrogenated rosinate, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosinate, glyceryl dibehenate / hydrogenated rosinate, glyceryl diisostearate / hydrogenated rosinate; trihydrogenated glyceryl rosinate, glycol rosinate, hydrogenated methyl rosinate, methyl rosinate, hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate, hydrogenated triethylene glycol rosinate; and mixtures thereof; more preferably chosen from glyceryl rosinate.

16. Composition according to the preceding claim in which the total content of diterpene compounds in the resin is at least 20%, preferably at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, by weight of diterpene compound(s) on the total weight of the natural resin.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one resin contains at least one triterpene compound; preferably chosen from: alpha-amyrin, beta-amyrin, alpha-amyrone, beta-amyrone, dammadienone, dammadienol, ursolic aldehyde, hydroxyhopanone, oleanonic aldehyde, ursolic acid, oleanonic acid, oleanolic acid, and mixtures thereof; and preferably the resin is chosen from incense resins, such as protium heptaphyllum, shorea robusta.

18. Composition according to the preceding claim in which the total content of triterpene compounds in the resin is at least 10%, preferably at least 20%, preferably at least 30%, and preferably at least 35% by weight of triterpene compound(s) on the total weight of the natural resin.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the resin has a number-average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 5,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 5,000 g / mol, better still, less than or equal to 2,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 2,000 g / mol and even better still less than or equal to 1,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 1,000 g / mol.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin(s) have a glass transition temperature, this being preferably in the range from 0°C to 200°C, more preferably from 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 20°C to 90°C and even more preferably from 30°C to 70°C.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the resin has a softening point, preferably in the range from 20°C to 150°C, more preferably from 30°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 40°C to 90°C.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the resin(s) is(are) present in said composition in a content in the range of 0.1% to 40%, preferably 0.5% to 35%, preferably 1% to 30%, preferably 2% to 25%, preferably 3 to 22%, and more preferably 5% to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

23. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one oily phase of composition according to any one of claims 1 to 22, said oily phase being a continuous oily phase.

24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an oily composition, in particular anhydrous, preferably an anhydrous dispersion, preferably an anhydrous solution; or a water-in-oil emulsion, or a composition with several separate phases such as a two-phase.

25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also has an aqueous phase with a total content by weight in the range of 2 to 95% by weight, preferably 10 to 90% by weight, preferably 20 to 80% by weight, more particularly 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

26. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of oily phase is in the range of 5 to 100%, preferably 10 to 98% by weight, preferably 20 to 90% by weight, preferably 30 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

27. ​​A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the volatile oil or oils are preferably present in a content in the range of 1 to 90% by weight, preferably 2 to 70%, preferably 3 to 50%, preferably 5 to 45% by weight, preferably 8 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 10 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one pigment; preferably chosen from titanium dioxides and / or iron oxides, in particular coated with a hydrophobic surface treatment agent, in particular with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

29. Composition according to claim 28, comprising at least 2% by weight of pigment(s), preferably at least 5% by weight of pigment(s), more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight of pigment(s), in particular from 10 to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 10 to 20% by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of said composition.

30. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of a foundation, a lipstick, a mascara, an eyeliner, a concealer or corrector, an eyebrow product, a skin care product, a sun product, a hygiene product, a hair styling product, or a hair coloring product.

31. Process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 30.

32. Use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 30, to improve the hold and / or resistance to friction without increasing the sticky effect, of a film obtained by application of said composition to keratin materials.