Elastic knitted textile, in particular made of polyester(s), clothing item comprising such a textile, use of said textile, and method of manufacturing such a textile

Abstract

The present invention relates to a warp-knitted textile comprising columns of stitches and rows of stitches, and furthermore at least one yarn A (13) and at least one bi-component yarn B (15) at least partly retracted, said at least one yarn A (13) is knitted on two columns of stitches, said at least one yarn B (15) is knitted on two columns of stitches, and said at least one yarn B (15) is knitted in opposition to said at least one yarn A (13). The present invention also relates to an article of clothing comprising such a knitted textile, as well as the use of such a knitted textile for manufacturing an article of clothing and finally a method for manufacturing a knitted textile. Figure for abstract: Fig 1

Description

Title of the invention: Elastic knitted textile, in particular made of polyester(s), clothing item comprising such a textile, use of said textile, and method of manufacturing such a textile Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the technical field of elastic warp knitted textiles, in particular made of polyester(s), the use of said knitted textiles, as well as clothing articles comprising such knitted textiles.

[0002] The present invention also relates to methods of manufacturing such knitted textiles. Prior art

[0003] Elastic knitted textiles, particularly for sports, for example swimwear, generally comprise elastane in combination with polyester or polyamide, the elastane being able to represent approximately 20% to 35% by mass of an elastic textile.

[0004] Elastane, based on polyurethane, is difficult to recycle, especially when combined with polyamides or polyesters which are materials of a different chemical nature. It is not possible to separate the intermingled threads of a textile component in order to recycle the different materials individually. In addition, these materials (polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides) are not chemically compatible with each other, and therefore cannot be recycled together on an industrial scale in a cost-effective manner.

[0005] We are thus seeking to obtain elastic textiles without polyurethane which are recyclable, in particular which do not require separating and grouping materials of the same chemical nature.

[0006] It has thus been proposed to use textured polyamide or polyester yarns, i.e. yarns developing a certain flexibility due to their mechanical treatment (in particular a DTY treatment for drawn texturized yarn in English), in particular providing a certain crimp or contraction (called crimp in English). The use of these yarns makes it possible to confer a certain flexibility to the textile component but which remains insufficient for many applications, in particular sports. In addition, the use of yarns having different chemical natures complicates the dyeing process, because the coloring techniques (finishing, etc.) and the temperatures required can be very different between two materials.

[0007] It is also desired that these elastic knitted textiles be resistant to chlorine and sea water if they are intended to be used in swimwear or otherwise. general in clothing items in contact with sea water or chlorinated water.

[0008] JP 2005 / 179886 thus proposes a textile component using a two-component yarn comprising a heat-shrinkable polymer component, in particular comprising polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate. In example 2, a warp-knitted fabric is knitted with a charmeuse weave. The average elongation obtained in the vertical and horizontal directions is indicated as being 78%. This knit, however, does not have sufficient elasticity for sports applications.

[0009] The present invention thus relates to an elastic warp knit, in particular made of polyester(s), which can be easily recycled, in particular not requiring separation of the different materials composing it.

[0010] The present invention advantageously relates to a warp-knitted fabric resistant to chlorine and sea water.

[0011] The present invention advantageously provides a warp-knitted fabric with significantly improved elasticity.

[0012] The present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing such a warp-knitted fabric. Statement of the invention

[0013] The subject of the present invention, according to a first aspect, is a warp-knitted textile comprising columns of stitches and rows of stitches, and advantageously comprising: - at least one yarn A, and at least one bi-component yarn B at least partially retracted, - yarn A is knitted over two columns of stitches, - yarn B is knitted over two columns of stitches, - yarn B is knitted opposite yarn A.

[0014] The stitch pattern selected in the present invention, in particular in combination with the two yarns A and B also selected, makes it possible to obtain a warp-knitted textile having significantly improved elasticities, in particular multiplied by more than two in the direction of the rows of stitches (also designated in the present text by weft direction) for double reverse knit weaves, in particular with closed or open stitches.

[0015] The inventors have found that this method of binding the threads A and B together makes it possible to improve the elasticity, in particular the elastic return of the knitted textile.

[0016] Advantageously, the knitted textile according to the invention is a textile knitted in a double reverse knit weave, with closed or open stitches, preferably with closed stitches.

[0017] Advantageously, the knitted textile comprises several yarns A and several yarns B. Thread(s) B

[0018] In the present text, the term “yarn B” is understood to mean a two-component yarn that said yarn B comprises, in particular is essentially made up of, a first polymer component and a second polymer component.

[0019] In one embodiment, the two-component yarn(s) B comprise(s) a first polymer component, in particular non-shrunk, more particularly non-heat-shrunk, and a second polymer component, in particular shrunk, more particularly heat-shrunk.

[0020] The yarn(s) B may be one or more multifilament yarn(s), in particular flat or textured, more particularly textured. Advantageously, the first and second polymer components of the yarn B are joined together inside each filament of said multifilament yarn B.

[0021] Said at least one yarn B may comprise (or be essentially made up of) filaments each of which filaments is of the core-mantle type (or also called core-sheath), or of the side-by-side type, preferably of the side-by-side type.

[0022] The first polymer component can thus form the core or the mantle or one of the sides of the filament, the second polymer component forms the remainder of the filament.

[0023] Yarn B may be, in a non-limiting manner, the yarn marketed by The Lycra Company under the trademark T400® or T400 ecomade®. It is a multifilament yarn, preferably textured. The first component of yarn B preferably has a melting or softening temperature higher than the melting or softening temperature of the second polymer component of yarn B. The first component of said at least one yarn B preferably has a shrinkage temperature higher than the shrinkage temperature of the second polymer component B.

[0024] The first polymer component is preferably different from the second polymer component.

[0025] Preferably, the first polymer component is a polyester, in particular recycled and / or biosourced, and the second polymer component is a polyester, in particular recycled and / or biosourced.

[0026] In the present text, polyester is understood to mean any polymer (i.e. homopolymer, copolymer, or terpolymer) comprising (essentially consisting of) an ester repeating unit.

[0027] In the present text, the term "at least partially shrunk wire B" refers to the wire B comprising a part of its structure which is shrunk, in particular heat-shrunk. Said shrunk part, in particular extending over the length of the wire B, has undergone dimensional shrinkage.

[0028] Preferably, the at least partially retracted wire(s) B is / are one or more wire(s) B comprising (each) a crimp or undulation, in particular helical, repeated over its / their length, in particular obtained following heating of the yarn(s) B or by any other technically equivalent means. More particularly, a portion of the yarn B (in particular extending over the length of one or more filaments) has undergone dimensional shrinkage obtained by heating or by any other technically equivalent means.

[0029] Preferably, the mass ratio of first polymer component of said at least one yarn B: second polymer component of said at least one yarn B is from 50:50 to 85:15, in particular from 60:40 to 75:25, more particularly from 60:25 to 70:35, for example from approximately 68:32.

[0030] In the present text, a mass ratio of component X: component Y in a given object ranging from a: b to c: d, means that the mass fraction of component X in said object is greater than or equal to a% and less than or equal to c%, and that the mass fraction of component Y in said object is greater than or equal to b% and less than or equal to d%. Thread(s) A

[0031] The yarn(s) A is / are preferably one or more multifilament yarn(s) or one or more yarn(s) spun from fibers, preferably one or more multifilament yarn(s), in particular flat or textured, more preferably textured.

[0032] The yarn(s) A may comprise one or more polymer material(s) chosen from: polyamides, such as polyamide 6 or 66; polypropylenes, such as polypropylene, polyethylene; polyesters, such as polyethylene (PET), and polybutylene terephthalate; optionally said material(s) is / are recycled and / or biosourced.

[0033] The yarn(s) A may be one or more single-component yarn(s) or one or more multi-component yarn(s), in particular one or more bi-component yarn(s).

[0034] Preferably, said at least one yarn A is a single-component yarn (i.e. it comprises a single polymer component).

[0035] Yarn A may be a non-textured yarn (i.e. a flat yarn, in particular called FDY for Full Drawn Yarn in English) or textured yarn (in particular DTY for drawn texturized yarn in English). Additional thread(s)

[0036] The knitted textile may further comprise one or more additional yarn(s).

[0037] The additional yarn(s) may be one or more spun fiber yarn(s) or one or more multifilament yarn(s), in particular flat or textured.

[0038] Said additional thread(s) may be one or more single-component or multi-component, in particular two-component, thread(s).

[0039] Preferably, said additional yarn(s) is / are one or more single-component yarn(s).

[0040] The additional yarn(s) may comprise one or more polymer material(s) chosen from: polyamides, such as polyamide 6 or 66; polypropylenes, such as polypropylene, and polyethylene; polyesters, such as polyethylene (PET), and polybutylene terephthalate (PBT); cellulose, such as cotton; at least partially regenerated cellulose, such as viscose; optionally said material(s) is / are recycled and / or biosourced. Knitted textile

[0041] In one embodiment, the ratio of the mass (in yarn(s) A and in yarn(s) B) to the total mass of the knitted textile is greater than or equal to 60%, preferably greater than or equal to 70% or 80% or 85% or 95%.

[0042] In one embodiment, the knitted textile consists essentially of the yarn(s) A, and the yarn(s) B.

[0043] The knitted textile preferably comprises a reverse side and a right side.

[0044] Preferably, the yarn(s) A is / are knitted on the right side.

[0045] Preferably, the yarn(s) B is / are knitted on the reverse side.

[0046] Advantageously, the knitted textile comprises one or more yarns A and one or more yarns B knitted repeatedly over two columns of stitches and over two rows of stitches.

[0047] Advantageously, the knitted textile comprises several columns of stitches, in particular corresponding to the longitudinal direction or the warp direction of the knitted textile, and several rows of stitches, in particular corresponding to the transverse or weft direction of the knitted textile.

[0048] Advantageously, the knitted textile therefore comprises yarns A and yarns B.

[0049] Preferably, the knitted textile has a surface mass greater than or equal to 100 g / m2, more preferably greater than or equal to 150 g / m2 or 180 g / m2 or 190 g / m2 or 200 g / m2.

[0050] Preferably, the knitted textile has a surface mass less than or equal to 350 g / m2, more preferably less than or equal to 300 g / m2 or 280 g / m2 or 260 g / m2 or 250 g / m2 or 240 g / m2 or 230 g / m2.

[0051] In one embodiment, the ratio of the mass of yarn(s) A to the total mass of the knitted textile is greater than or equal to 30%, preferably greater than or equal to 35% or 40% or 45% or 50%, still preferably approximately equal to 52% at + / - 1%.

[0052] In one embodiment, the ratio of the mass of yarn(s) A to the total mass of the knitted textile is less than or equal to 80%, preferably less than or equal to 70% or 65% or 60% or 55%.

[0053] In one embodiment, the ratio of the mass of wire(s) B to the total mass of the knitted textile is greater than or equal to 30%, preferably greater than or equal to 35% or 40% or 45%, more preferably approximately equal to 48% at + / - 1%.

[0054] In one embodiment, the ratio of the mass of yarn(s) B to the total mass of the knitted textile is less than or equal to 80%, preferably less than or equal to 70% or 60% or 55% or 50%.

[0055] In the present text, it is understood that said at least one yarn B is knitted in opposition to said at least one yarn A that the mesh bar supporting the yarn B works in a direction opposite to the working direction of the mesh bar supporting the yarn A.

[0056] In this text, a mesh bar is equivalent to a guide bar.

[0057] For example, if the mesh bar supporting wire B works from right to left, the mesh bar supporting wire A then works from left to right.

[0058] This arrangement makes it possible to improve the balance of the binding between the threads A and B, and avoids problems of straight threads, in particular that the knitted textile does not twist.

[0059] This arrangement also makes it possible to increase the mass proportion of wire(s) B.

[0060] Advantageously, yarn A is knitted according to a stitch pattern reversed to the stitch pattern of yarn B.

[0061] In particular, as can be seen in Figures 1 and 3 below, the mesh pattern of said at least one yarn A is symmetrical to the mesh pattern of said at least one yarn B.

[0062] In an alternative embodiment, said at least one yarn A is knitted according to a stitch pattern chosen from: 1-0 / 1-2 / / ; 1-2 / 1-0 / / ; 0-1 / 2-1 / / ; and 2-1 / 0-1 / / , preferably 1-0 / 1-2 / / and 0-1 / 2-1 / / ; more preferably 1-0 / 1-2 / / .

[0063] It is understood by said at least one yarn A is knitted according to a given stitch pattern that the mesh bar supporting said at least one yarn A works according to said given stitch pattern.

[0064] In an alternative embodiment, said at least one yarn B is knitted according to a stitch pattern chosen from: 1-0 / 1-2 / / ; 1-2 / 1-0 / / ; 0-1 / 2-1 / / ; and 2-1 / 0-1 / / , preferably 2-1 / 0-1 / / and 1-2 / 1-0 / / , more preferably 1-2 / 1-0 / / .

[0065] The sign " / / " represents the end of the mesh pattern ratio in the prior art, and each pair of numbers xy represents a mesh.

[0066] It is understood by said at least one yarn B is knitted according to a given stitch pattern that the mesh bar supporting said at least one yarn B works according to said given stitch pattern.

[0067] A person skilled in the art, a specialist in warp knits, knows how to identify the stitch patterns of each of the threads of the knitted textile by unraveling it.

[0068] In an alternative embodiment, said at least one yarn A comprises a polyester polymer component, and said at least one yarn B comprises two components polymers each made of polyester.

[0069] This arrangement promotes the recyclable nature of the knitted textile according to the invention.

[0070] In an alternative embodiment, the yarn B comprises polyethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate.

[0071] Preferably, the first component of yarn B is polyethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate.

[0072] Preferably, the second component of yarn B is polytrimethylene terephthalate.

[0073] In a variant, the yarn A is a multifilament yarn, having a linear mass greater than or equal to 10 dtex and less than or equal to 500 dtex, preferably less than or equal to 200 dtex, more preferably greater than or equal to 10 dtex and less than or equal to 100 dtex.

[0074] 1 dtex (contraction of decitex) is understood to mean the mass of yarn in grams per 10,000 meters.

[0075] Preferably, said at least one yarn A has a linear mass greater than or equal to 30 dtex and less than or equal to 80 dtex, more preferably greater than or equal to 40 dtex and less than or equal to 70 dtex, in particular from 50 dtex to 60 dtex.

[0076] Preferably, said at least one yarn A comprises a number of filaments greater than or equal to 10 and less than or equal to 100, more preferably greater than or equal to 40 and less than or equal to 90, in particular from 65 to 85.

[0077] In a variant, said at least one yarn B is a multifilament yarn, having a linear mass greater than or equal to 10 dtex and less than or equal to 200 dtex, preferably greater than or equal to 10 dtex and less than or equal to 100 dtex.

[0078] Preferably, said at least one yarn B has a linear mass greater than or equal to 30 dtex and less than or equal to 80 dtex, more preferably greater than or equal to 40 dtex and less than or equal to 70 dtex, in particular greater than or equal to 50 dtex and less than or equal to 60 dtex.

[0079] Preferably, said at least one yarn B comprises a number of filaments greater than or equal to 10 and less than or equal to 100, more preferably greater than or equal to 20 and less than or equal to 40, in particular greater than or equal to 25 and less than or equal to 35.

[0080] In a variant, the knitted textile has in the direction of the rows of stitches an elongation at break greater than or equal to 100%, preferably greater than or equal to 150%, more preferably greater than or equal to 200%.

[0081] Advantageously, the elongation at break obtained is very significant, and significantly improved compared to that obtained for a charmeuse (mesh pattern) for example.

[0082] In a variant, the knitted textile has in the direction of the stitch columns an elongation at break greater than or equal to 75%, preferably greater than or equal to 90%.

[0083] In a variant, the knitted textile has in the direction of the rows of stitches an al for a long time, under a force of 35 daN, greater than or equal to approximately 100%, preferably greater than or equal to 130%, more preferably greater than or equal to 140% and less than or equal to 160%.

[0084] In a variant, the knitted textile has in the direction of the stitch columns an elongation, under a force of 35 daN, greater than or equal to approximately 30%, preferably greater than or equal to 35% or 45%, still preferably greater than or equal to 40% and less than or equal to 60%.

[0085] The elongation obtained in the direction of the stitch columns is less than that obtained in the weft direction, nevertheless it is sufficiently high to obtain a knitted textile whose elasticity is clearly improved compared to the elastic knitted textile of the state of the art not comprising elastane.

[0086] Elongation at break and elongation under a given load (daN) can be determined using ISO 3934-1, dated 2013, and entitled “Textiles—Tensile properties of fabrics—Part 1: Determination of maximum force and elongation at maximum force by the strip method”. Tests can be carried out with an MTS dynamometer, the tensile speed being 100 mm / min.

[0087] In a variant, the knitted textile has a number of stitch columns per 10 mm greater than or equal to 15, or 20.

[0088] In a variant, the knitted textile has a number of rows of stitches per 10 mm greater than or equal to 20, or 25, preferably greater than or equal to 30 or 35.

[0089] In a variant, the ratio of the mass of yarn(s) A to the total mass of the knitted textile is greater than or equal to 40% and less than or equal to 60%.

[0090] Preferably, the ratio of the mass of yarn(s) A to the total mass of the knitted textile is greater than or equal to 45% and less than or equal to 55%.

[0091] In a variant, the ratio of the mass of yarn(s) B to the total mass of the knitted textile is greater than or equal to 40% and less than or equal to 60%.

[0092] Preferably, the ratio of the mass of yarn(s) B to the total mass of the knitted textile is greater than or equal to 45% and less than or equal to 55%.

[0093] The subject of the present invention, according to a second aspect of the invention, is the use of the knitted textile according to any one of the variant embodiments with reference to the first aspect of the invention, for the manufacture of an article of clothing, in particular for the practice of sport.

[0094] The present invention relates, according to a third aspect of the invention, to an article of clothing, in particular for the practice of sport, comprising a knitted textile according to any one of the variant embodiments with reference to the first aspect of the invention.

[0095] In one embodiment, the article of clothing, according to the second or third appearance, includes a reverse side and a right side corresponding respectively to the reverse side and the right side of the knitted textile.

[0096] Advantageously, the article of clothing is an elastic article of clothing, in particular an article fitted close to the body.

[0097] By elastic clothing item is understood that said clothing item is elastic in at least one direction, for example horizontal or vertical or possibly both.

[0098] The clothing item can be used in many sports, such as the following sports cited without limitation: water sports (swimming, surfing, etc.), fitness, running.

[0099] In one embodiment, the clothing item has a horizontal direction and a vertical direction corresponding respectively to the weft direction and the warp direction of the knitted textile.

[0100] In particular, the horizontal direction is substantially perpendicular to the vertical direction. The subject of the present invention, according to a fourth aspect of the invention, is a method of manufacturing a knitted textile, in particular according to any one of the variant embodiments with reference to the first aspect of the invention, comprising the steps: - knitting, on a warp knitting machine, at least one yarn A with a guide bar A working on two columns of stitches, and at least one yarn B with a guide bar B working on two columns of stitches, the guide bars A and B working in opposition, to obtain an intermediate knitted textile, and said at least one wire B is a two-component wire comprising a shrinkable polymer component, in particular heat-shrinkable; - optionally, carrying out a finishing treatment of the intermediate knitted textile, in particular comprising a washing step (for example a desizing step) and / or a dyeing step; - activating the shrinkage, in particular by heating, of said shrinkable polymer component of the intermediate knitted textile; - recover the knitted textile.

[0101] In one embodiment, the finishing step comprises a washing step and / or a dyeing step, for example with a jet dyeing machine, in particular the heating temperature during dyeing is for example from 120°C to 135°C.

[0102] When the intermediate knitted textile consists essentially of polyesters, the dyeing is carried out with one or more disperse dye(s).

[0103] In one embodiment, the step of activating the retraction of the retractable polymer component, in particular of the second polymer component of said at least one yarn B, comprises passing the intermediate knitted textile over a drying stenter, for example designated by the term stenter in English, in particular at a temperature ranging from 150°C to 180°C, for example 170°C, for at least one second, in particular for at least 30 seconds, for example about 60 seconds. Preferably, the knitted textile is wetted before the shrinking step, for example due to the prior finishing treatment if no drying has been carried out and / or by the application of water to said intermediate knitted textile (for example impregnation or water spraying).

[0104] Preferably, the warp knitting machine is a warp or raschel knitting machine.

[0105] In one embodiment, the gauge of the knitting machine is greater than or equal to E24, preferably greater than or equal to E28 or E30.

[0106] In particular, the gauge is greater than or equal to E24 and less than or equal to E40, more particularly greater than or equal to E28 and less than or equal to E40.

[0107] The letter E denotes the number of needles per English inch.

[0108] In this text, we therefore understand by the gauge of the knitting machine, the number of needles supported by the needle bed of the knitting machine for 25.4 mm (or 1 inch).

[0109] E24 means for example that the needle bed of the knitting machine comprises 24 needles per inch.

[0110] The definitions, modes and / or variant embodiments with reference to the thread(s) A and / or thread(s) B, and generally with reference to the first aspect of the invention, apply independently of each other to the fourth aspect of the invention.

[0111] Preferably, the guide bar A is fully threaded.

[0112] Preferably, the guide bar B is fully threaded.

[0113] The knitting machine used in the invention may be a circular knitting machine or a flat knitting machine. The warp-knitted textile may be a substantially flat knitted panel or a knitted tube.

[0114] In a variant, the guide bar A supporting the wire A has a movement chosen from: 1-0 / 1-2 / / ; 1-2 / 1-0 / / ; 0-1 / 2-1 / / ; and 2-1 / 0-1 / / , preferably 1-0 / 1-2 / / and 0-1 / 2-1 / / ; more preferably 1-0 / 1-2 / / .

[0115] In a variant, the guide bar B supporting the wire B has a movement chosen from: 1-0 / 1-2 / / ; 1-2 / 1-0 / / ; 0-1 / 2-1 / / ; and 2-1 / 0-1 / / , preferably 2-1 / 0-1 / / and 1-2 / 1-0 / / , more preferably 1-2 / 1-0 / / .

[0116] The knitted textile is advantageously knitted with two guide bars (also referred to in this text as mesh bars), each supporting a yarn. The guide bars each have a movement defined above according to the stitch patterns and repeated over the entire width of the knitted textile, and according to the desired length.

[0117] Advantageously, the knitted textile comprises multiple columns of stitches and multiple rows of stitches. Description of the drawings

[0118] The invention will be better understood on reading the following description of the embodiments of the invention given as non-limiting examples, with reference to the appended drawings, in which:

[0119] [Fig-1] [Fig. 1] represents the mesh pattern of a first example of textile knitted according to the invention;

[0120] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] schematically represents the first example of textile knitted fabric obtained by knitting the stitch pattern shown in [Fig.l];

[0121] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] represents the mesh pattern of a second example of textile knitted according to the invention;

[0122] [Fig.4] [Fig.4] schematically represents the second example of textile knitted fabric obtained by knitting the stitch pattern shown in [Fig.3];

[0123] [Fig.5] [Fig.5] represents the mesh diagram of a first comparative example knitted textile;

[0124] [Fig.6] [Fig.6] schematically represents the first comparative example of knitted textile obtained by knitting the stitch pattern shown in [Fig.5];

[0125] [Fig.7] [Fig.7] represents the mesh diagram of a second comparative example of knitted textile;

[0126] [Fig.8] [Fig.8] schematically represents the second comparative example of knitted textile obtained by knitting the stitch pattern shown in [Fig.7]. Description of the embodiments

[0127] [Fig.l] represents the stitch pattern of a first example of knitted textile 10 according to the invention shown schematically in [Fig.2].

[0128] The knitted textile 10 is knitted on a warp knitting machine with two mesh bars, preferably a Karl Mayer machine of type HKS2. The gauge of the knitting machine is preferably E32.

[0129] The first mesh bar 12 supports a thread A 13 and works on two columns of stitches according to the movement 1-0 / 1-2 / / , in particular the stitches are closed knitted stitches. The thread A 13 is preferably a multifilament thread made of polyester, in particular polyethylene terephthalate (in particular recycled and / or biosourced), more particularly 55 dtex with 72 filaments and textured.

[0130] Advantageously, the first mesh bar 12 is the front mesh bar so that the yarn A is knitted on the right side of the knitted textile 10.

[0131] The second mesh bar 14 supports the yarn B 15 and works on two columns of stitches according to the movement 1-2 / 1-0 / / , in particular the stitches are closed knitted stitches. The yarn B 15 is preferably a two-component yarn comprising polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate (in particular according to the weight ratio 68:32), in particular 55 dtex with 35 filaments, notably under the reference T400ecomade® marketed by The Lycra Company.

[0132] Advantageously, the second mesh bar 14 is the rear mesh bar so that the yarn B is knitted on the reverse side of the knitted textile 10.

[0133] As can be seen in the stitch diagram of [Fig.l] showing the movements of bars 12 and 14, and knitted yarns A and B 13 and 15, the mesh bar 14 works in opposition and in an inverse manner with the mesh bar 12. In particular, the knitted stitches formed by the mesh bar 12 are inverted with respect to the knitted stitches formed by the mesh bar 14. In addition, the mesh bar 12 works in a direction opposite to the direction in which the mesh bar 14 works. In [Fig.l], the mesh bar 12 works from left to right while the mesh bar 14 works from right to left.

[0134] Advantageously, the mesh bars 12 and 14 repeat their respective mesh patterns over the entire width of the knitted textile 10 and according to the desired length so that the threads A and B are knitted repeatedly according to the width and length of the knitted textile 10.

[0135] Thus, if the knitted textile 10 is unraveled, there are several threads A and several threads B.

[0136] The threading of each mesh bar 12 and 14 is full, that is to say leaves no empty position.

[0137] The partial shrinkage of the yarns B of the knitted textile is then activated, in particular by heating, for example at 170°C for 60 seconds on a heating stenter, so that the yarn B 15 is partly (heat)shrunk, in particular the PTT is thermally activated and shrinks compared to the PET which remains stable. The yarn B 15 thus develops a crimp or a helical undulation, thus giving elasticity to the knitted textile 10. The elasticity of the knitted textile is advantageously developed after its knitting.

[0138] Optionally, prior to heating the knitted textile to activate the elasticity of yarn B, the knitted textile may undergo a finishing treatment in order to dye it, for example.

[0139] The ratio of the mass of yarn(s) A 13 to the total mass of the knitted textile 10 is approximately 52% in this specific example.

[0140] The ratio of the mass of yarn(s) B 15 to the total mass of the knitted textile 10 is approximately 48% in this specific example.

[0141] Generally, the knitted textile has a warp direction C or longitudinal L, and a weft direction T or transverse t, represented in figures 2, 4, 6 and 8.

[0142] The knitted textile 10 obtained in this specific example has: a surface mass of 210 g / m2, approximately 96 rows of stitches per inch, approximately 56 columns of stitches per inch, an elongation at break in the warp direction (i.e. columns of stitches) of 111% and in the weft direction (i.e. rows of stitches) of 236%, an elongation in the warp direction of 53% under a force / load of 35N, an elongation in the weft direction of 144% under a force / load of 35N. The knitted textile 10 has excellent elastic properties allowing it to be used in the manufacture of clothing articles, and this advantageously by being essentially made of polyesters which facilitates the recycling of the knitted textile.

[0143] [Fig.3] represents the stitch pattern of a second example of knitted textile 20 according to the invention shown schematically in [Fig.4].

[0144] The knitted textile 20 is knitted on a warp knitting machine with two mesh bars, preferably a Karl Mayer machine of type HKS2. The gauge of the knitting machine is preferably E32.

[0145] The threading of each mesh bar 22 and 24 is full, that is to say leaves no empty position. The first mesh bar 22 supports a thread A 23 and works on two columns of stitches according to the movement 0-1 / 2-1 / / , in particular the stitches are open knitted stitches. The thread A 23 is preferably a multifilament thread made of polyester, in particular polyethylene terephthalate (in particular recycled), more particularly 55 dtex with 72 filaments and textured.

[0146] Advantageously, the first mesh bar 22 is the front mesh bar so that the yarn A 23 is knitted on the right side of the knitted textile 20.

[0147] The second mesh bar 24 supports the yarn B 25 and works on two columns of stitches according to the 2-1 / 0-1 / / movement, in particular the stitches are open knitted stitches. The yarn B 25 is preferably a bicomponent yarn comprising polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) (in particular in a weight ratio 68:32), in particular 55 dtex with 35 filaments, in particular under the reference T400ecomade® marketed by The Lycra Company.

[0148] Advantageously, the second mesh bar 24 is the rear mesh bar so that the yarn B 25 is knitted on the reverse side of the knitted textile 20.

[0149] As can be seen in the stitch diagram of [Fig. 3] showing the movements of the bars 22 and 24, and the knitted yarns A and B 23 and 25, the mesh bar 24 works in opposition and in an inverse manner with the mesh bar 22. In particular, the knitted stitches formed by the mesh bar 22 are inverted with respect to the knitted stitches formed by the mesh bar 24. In addition, the mesh bar 22 works in a direction opposite to the direction in which the mesh bar 24 works. In [Fig. 3], the mesh bar 22 works from left to right while the mesh bar 24 works from right to left.

[0150] Advantageously, the mesh bars 22 and 24 repeat their mesh pattern over the entire width of the knitted textile 20 and according to the desired length so that the threads A and B are knitted repeatedly according to the width and length of the knitted textile 20.

[0151] Thus, if the knitted textile 20 is unraveled, there are several threads A and several threads B.

[0152] The partial shrinkage of the yarns B 25 of the knitted textile is then activated, in particular by heating, for example at 170°C for 60 seconds on a heating stenter, so that the yarn B 25 is partly (thermo)shrunk, in particular the PTT is thermally activated and shrinks compared to the PET which remains stable. The yarn B 25 thus develops a crimp or a helical undulation, thus conferring elasticity to the knitted textile 20. The elasticity of the knitted textile is advantageously developed after its knitting.

[0153] Optionally, prior to heating the knitted textile to activate the elasticity of the yarn B, the knitted textile can undergo a finishing treatment in order to dye it for example.

[0154] The ratio of the mass of yarn(s) A 23 to the total mass of the knitted textile 20 is approximately 52% in this specific example.

[0155] The ratio of the mass of yarn(s) B 25 to the total mass of the knitted textile 20 is approximately 48% in this specific example.

[0156] The knitted textile 20 obtained has in this specific example: a surface mass of 218 g / m2, an elongation in the warp direction of 40% under a force / load of 35N, an elongation in the weft direction of 157% under a force / load of 35N. The knitted textile 20 has excellent elastic properties allowing it to be used in the manufacture of clothing items, and this advantageously by being essentially made of polyesters which facilitates the recycling of the knitted textile. The elasticity in the weft direction is further improved compared to the first example of knitted textile 10 but is slightly reduced in the warp direction.

[0157] The knitted textile 10 has the best balance between the elasticities in the weft and warp directions compared to the knitted textile 20.

[0158] [Fig.5] represents the stitch pattern of a first comparative example of knitted textile 30 shown schematically in [Fig.6].

[0159] The knitted textile 30 is knitted on a warp knitting machine with two mesh bars, preferably a Karl Mayer machine of type HKS2. The gauge of the knitting machine is preferably E32.

[0160] The threading of each mesh bar is full, that is to say leaves no empty position.

[0161] The first mesh bar 32 supports a thread A 33 and works on three columns of stitches according to the movement 1-0 / 2-3 / / , in particular the stitches are closed knitted stitches. The thread A 33 is preferably a multifilament thread made of polyester, in particular polyethylene terephthalate (in particular recycled), more particularly 55 dtex with 72 filaments and textured.

[0162] Advantageously, the first mesh bar 32 is the front mesh bar so that the yarn A 33 is knitted on the right side of the knitted textile 30.

[0163] The second mesh bar 34 supports the yarn B 35 and works on two columns of stitches according to the movement 1-2 / 1-0 / / , in particular the stitches are closed knitted stitches. The yarn B 35 is preferably a bicomponent yarn comprising polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) (in particular in a weight ratio 68:32), in particular 55 dtex with 35 filaments, in particular under the reference T400ecomade® marketed by The Lycra Company.

[0164] The mesh pattern shown in [Fig.5] corresponds to a charmeuse.

[0165] Advantageously, the second mesh bar 34 is the rear mesh bar so that the yarn B 35 is knitted on the reverse side of the knitted textile 30.

[0166] As can be seen in the stitch diagram of [Fig.5] representing the movements of the bars 33 and 34, and the knitted yarns A and B 33 and 35, the mesh bar 34 works in opposition to the mesh bar 32.

[0167] The partial shrinkage of the B 35 yarns of the knitted textile is then activated, in particular by heating, for example at 170°C for 60 seconds on a heating stenter, so that the B 35 yarn is partly (thermo)shrunk, in particular the PTT is thermally activated and shrinks compared to the PET which remains stable. The B 35 yarn thus develops a crimp or a helical undulation, thus giving elasticity to the knitted textile 30. The elasticity of the knitted textile is advantageously developed after its knitting.

[0168] The ratio of the mass of yarn(s) A 33 to the total mass of the knitted textile 30 is approximately 56% in this specific example.

[0169] The ratio of the mass of yarn(s) B 35 to the total mass of the knitted textile 30 is approximately 44% in this specific example.

[0170] The knitted textile 30 obtained has in this specific example: a surface mass of 220 g / m2, an elongation in the warp direction of 56% under a force / load of 35N, an elongation in the weft direction of 83% under a force / load of 35N. In the weft direction, the knitted textile 30 has an elasticity 73% lower than the elasticity of the knitted textile 10, and 89% lower than the elasticity of the knitted textile 20.

[0171] Yarns A and B thus develop a synergistic effect when knitted according to the stitch patterns of Figures 1 and 3 to improve elasticity.

[0172] [Fig.8] represents the mesh diagram of a second comparative example of textile knitted 40 shown schematically in [Fig.7] and corresponding to example 2 of JP 2005 / 179886.

[0173] The knitted textile 40 is knitted on a warp knitting machine with two mesh bars. The gauge of the knitting machine is preferably E28.

[0174] The first mesh bar 42 supports a thread 43 and works on three columns of stitches according to the movement 1-0 / 2-3 / / , in particular the stitches are closed knitted stitches. The thread 43 is a multifilament PET thread of 44 dtex36 filaments.

[0175] Advantageously, the first mesh bar 42 is the front mesh bar so that the yarn 43 is knitted on the right side of the knitted textile 40.

[0176] The second mesh bar 44 supports the yarn 45 and works on two columns of stitches according to the movement 1-2 / 1-0 / / , in particular the stitches are closed knitted stitches. The yarn 45 is a bicomponent yarn based on PET from PTT (according to a PTT:PET weight ratio of 50:50). The yarn 45 is a multifilament yarn of 44 dtex for 36 filaments.

[0177] The mesh pattern shown in [Fig.7] corresponds to a charmeuse.

[0178] Advantageously, the second mesh bar 44 is the rear mesh bar so that the yarn 45 is knitted on the reverse side of the knitted textile 40.

[0179] The ratio of the mass of yarn(s) 43 to the total mass of the knitted textile 40 is approximately 70% in this specific example.

[0180] The ratio of the mass of yarn(s) 45 to the total mass of the knitted textile 40 is approximately 30% in this specific example.

[0181] The knitted fabric 40 is described as having a surface mass of 224 g / m2, a horizontal / vertical elongation rate of 78% under a force of 17.7N. The knitted fabric 40 has an elasticity 85% lower than the elasticity of the knitted fabric 10, and 100% lower than the elasticity of the knitted fabric 20.

[0182] The knitted textiles 10 and 20 according to the invention, in particular the knitted textile 10, have significantly improved elasticities, in particular in the weft direction, obtained due to the combination of the two mesh bars working in opposition and in an inverse manner on two columns of stitches with yarns A and B, yarn B being a two-component yarn whose elasticity is activated thermally and not mechanically or by its composition.

[0183] Advantageously, the knitted textiles 10 and 20 are 100% polyester by mass. This arrangement facilitates their recycling in the manufacture of polyester articles because it is not necessary to separate the yarns.

[0184] Furthermore, it has been observed that these polyester yarns have good resistance to chlorinated and salt water (100 hours chlorinated water and 200 hours chlorinated water) due in particular to the absence of elastane. In addition, since the materials are of the same chemical nature, dyeing of the knitted textiles 10 and 20 is facilitated.

Claims

Claims

1. Warp-knitted textile (10,20) comprising columns of stitches and rows of stitches, characterized in that said knitted textile (10,20) comprises: - at least one yarn A (13,23) and at least one bi-component yarn B (15,25) at least partly shrunk, - said at least one bi-component yarn B (15,25) comprises a first polymer component, and a second polymer component, the first polymer component of said at least one yarn B preferably has a shrinkage temperature higher than the shrinkage temperature of the second polymer component B, and the yarn B comprises a structural part which is heat-shrunk, - said at least one yarn A (13,23) is knitted on two columns of stitches, - said at least one yarn B (15,25) is knitted on two columns of stitches, and - in that said at least one yarn B (15,25) is knitted in opposition to said at least one yarn A (13,23).

2. Knitted textile (10,20) according to claim 1, characterized in that said at least one yarn A (13,23) is knitted according to a stitch pattern chosen from: 1-0 / 1-2 / / ; 1-2 / 1-0 / / ; 0-1 / 2-1 / / ; and 2-1 / 0-1 / / , preferably 1-0 / 1-2 / / and 0-1 / 2-1 / / ; more preferably 1-0 / 1-2 / / .

3. Knitted textile (10,20) according to either of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that said at least one yarn B (15,25) is knitted according to a stitch pattern chosen from: 1-0 / 1-2 / / ; 1-2 / 1-0 / / ; 0-1 / 2-1 / / ; and 2-1 / 0-1 / / , preferably 2-1 / 0-1 / / and 1-2 / 1-0 / / , more preferably 1-2 / 1-0 / / .

4. Knitted textile (10,20) according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said at least one yarn A (13,23) comprises a polymer component made of polyester, and in that said at least one yarn B (15,25) comprises two polymer components each made of polyester.

5. Knitted textile (10,20) according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said at least one yarn B (15,25) comprises polyethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate.

6. Knitted textile (10,20) according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that said at least one yarn A (13,23) is a multifilament yarn, having a linear mass greater than or equal to 10 dtex and in- less than or equal to 200 dtex.

7. Knitted textile (10,20) according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that said at least one yarn B (15,25) is a multifilament yarn, having a linear mass greater than or equal to 10 dtex and less than or equal to 200 dtex.

8. Knitted textile (10,20) according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the knitted textile (10,20) has in the direction of the rows of stitches (t,T) an elongation at break greater than or equal to approximately 100%, preferably greater than or equal to 150%, more preferably greater than or equal to 200%.

9. Knitted textile (10,20) according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the knitted textile (10,20) has in the direction of the stitch columns (L,C) an elongation at break greater than or equal to 75%, preferably greater than or equal to 90%.

10. Knitted textile (10,20) according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the knitted textile (10,20) has a number of stitch columns per cm greater than or equal to 15.

11. Knitted textile (10,20) according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the ratio of the mass of yarn(s) A to the total mass of the knitted textile is greater than or equal to 40% and less than or equal to 60%, and in that the ratio of the mass of yarn(s) B to the total mass of the knitted textile is greater than or equal to 40% and less than or equal to 60%.

12. Use of the knitted textile (10,20) according to any one of claims 1 to 11, for the manufacture of an article of clothing, in particular for practicing sport.

13. Article of clothing, in particular for the practice of sport, comprising a knitted textile (10,20) according to any one of claims 1 to 11.

14. A method of manufacturing a knitted textile (10,20), in particular according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises the steps: - knitting, on a warp knitting machine, at least one yarn A (13,23) with a guide bar A (12,22) working on two columns of stitches, and at least one yarn B (15,25) with a guide bar B (14,24) working on two columns of stitches, the guide bars A and B (12,22; 14,24) working in opposition, to obtain an intermediate knitted textile, and in that said at least one yarn B (15,25) is a two-component yarn comprising a polymer component re- towable; - said at least one bi-component yarn B (15, 25) comprises a first polymer component, and a second polymer component, the first polymer component of said at least one yarn B preferably has a shrinkage temperature higher than the shrinkage temperature of the second polymer component B, - activating the shrinkage by heating the shrinkable polymer component of the intermediate knitted textile; - recover the knitted textile (10,20).

15. Manufacturing method according to claim 14, characterized in that the guide bar A (12,22) supporting said at least one wire A (13,23) has a movement chosen from: 1-0 / 1-2 / / ; 1-2 / 1-0 / / ; 0-1 / 2-1 / / ; and 2-1 / 0-1 / / , preferably 1-0 / 1-2 / / and 0-1 / 2-1 / / ; more preferably 1-0 / 1-2 / / ; and the guide bar B (14,24) supporting said at least one wire B has a movement chosen from: 1-0 / 1-2 / / ; 1-2 / 1-0 / / ; 0-1 / 2-1 / / ; and 2-1 / 0-1 / / , preferably 2-1 / 0- l / / and 1-2 / 1-0 / / , more preferably 1-2 / 1-0 / / .

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