Butter compositions with cosmetic active ingredients extracted from plant materials

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic active ingredients derived from natural plant materials and plant waste streams, delivered in butter compositions. These butter compositions can contain active ingredients with a broad spectrum of polarities, ranging from highly hydrophilic to highly lipophilic. The hydrophilic active ingredients reside primarily in water droplets, while the lipophilic active ingredients are found in the continuous oil phase. The plant-based active ingredients of this invention are extracted from natural plants or their derivatives. Some active ingredients are extracted directly from the targeted plant components, while others are extracted from waste streams from olive oil mills and during grape processing. A wide variety of extraction methods can be used.To obtain the highest yield with the broadest inclusion of active plant molecules, supercritical CO2 extraction and solid-state adsorption extraction are the preferred techniques for this invention.

Description

Title of the invention: Butter compositions with cosmetic active ingredients extracted from plant materials Field of invention

[0001] The invention relates to the most effective collection and use of cosmetic active molecules derived from plant materials for cosmetic products intended to improve the appearance and general condition of the skin or scalp. The present invention is aimed, for example, at the cosmetics and hygiene and personal care industries, which are always in demand for new products, particularly in the growing demand for new active ingredients derived from plants. With such active ingredients, it is possible to achieve good efficacy, minimize the risks of irritation and allergy, reduce side effects, all with high biodegradability, high environmental friendliness and sustainability in development protocols. The present invention relates to butter compositions derived from cocoa beans and processed in such a way that they can be used to incorporate, protect and deliver cosmetic active ingredients extracted from plant materials. The present invention relates to methods for extracting active ingredients of plant origin. Various extraction methods are known in the industry. The present invention identifies the most suitable methods for achieving the highest overall utilization of plant materials. Two extraction methodologies are most suitable for the present invention: supercritical CO2 extraction for direct extraction of plant material and adsorption-desorption on solid resin for extraction of olive oil by aqueous product stream. The present invention also relates to plant extracts in combination with the butter composition as a transfer vehicle for the best performance efficiency in skin or scalp care products. The invention further relates to a composition that contains an extract of agricultural by-products such as olive oil mill water, table olive processing water or grape pomace. Technical background

[0002] Cosmetic, dermatological and nutricosmetic products are often intended to improve the hydration and barrier function of the epidermis, promote healing, depigment the skin and combat skin aging in a preventive and / or curative manner. The skin is a vital human organ, composed of several layers - the dermis, the proliferative layers and the stratum corneum - which covers the entire surface of the body. It essentially acts as a barrier against the external environment. This barrier function is particularly dependent on the quality of the epidermis, which mainly concerns the state of the stratum corneum, and the balance between the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes. Keratinocytes are cells that make up 90% of the outer layer of the skin (epidermis) and appendages (nails, hair, body hair). They synthesize keratin, a water-insoluble fibrous protein that gives the skin its waterproofing and external protection. The epidermis is divided into four layers based on the morphology of the keratinocytes, which gradually move from the basal layers to the upper layers through cellular differentiation, reaching the stratum corneum where they form a layer of dead cells called squames, through a process of apoptosis. This layer forms a protective barrier and reduces water loss from the body. Keratinocytes are constantly renewed. It takes them about a month to move from the basal layer to the stratum corneum. Fibroblasts are cells found in connective tissue and are sometimes called support cells. These cells are mainly found in the dermis, giving it its consistency and flexibility. They secrete proteoglycans and glycoproteins. They mainly secrete collagen, elastin, and fibrillins, including fibrillin 1. Fibrillin 1 contributes to fiber formation, and its functional and structural properties play a key role in the elasticity of connective tissue, particularly at the dermal-epidermal junction. Indeed, it allows epidermal cells to attach to the elastic fibers of the dermis. Along with elastin, fibrillin 1 is sometimes mentioned as a protein involved in firmness and elasticity processes. It is active in the anti-aging mechanism and is mainly used as a biomarker of accelerated aging due to ultraviolet rays.Thus, the protection of collagen, elastin and fibrillin 1 could help to treat skin that has aged intrinsically, i.e. genetically programmed or chronologically, or extrinsically, mainly due to oxidative stress such as UV rays, tobacco or pollution and to treat scar formation. Fibroblasts and keratinocytes thus play a crucial role in the biological process of the skin, mainly through the secretion of fibrillin 1, to regulate firmness, elasticity, cell cohesion and in the healing and aging process of the skin. Typically, topical products are used to restore the skin barrier to address these issues of dry skin and aging. Plant-based active ingredients have proven their effectiveness in these performances and are usually derived from one or more parts of the plant, such as flowers, leaves, stems, bark, wood, roots, seeds, fruits, rhizomes and gums or oleoresin exudates. Plant extracts are widely used in skin care formulations. One problem with using such products is that the active ingredients in plant extracts can be unstable in the formulations. Additionally, these formulas are structured for topical application to the skin and include a variety of other base ingredients. The base ingredients typically make up the overwhelming majority of ingredients in the formulations, which can make adding small amounts of actives difficult to achieve with the desired precision. Accordingly, there is a need for skin or scalp care products containing effective plant actives. The present invention relates to the use of the designed butter structures as transfer vehicles for various plant actives with clear performance characteristics. Summary of the invention

[0003] The present invention relates to a butter composition, a process for its manufacture, as well as compositions containing plant active ingredients, which cover the entire spectrum of polarity ranging from water-soluble active ingredients to fat-soluble active ingredients, in particular plant active ingredients derived from by-product streams of existing food processes. The present invention also relates to the use of the butter composition of this invention as a transfer vehicle for plant actives so that the actives are further protected against oxidative damage. The butter composition of the invention is designed and processed to contain optimally sized water droplets so that it also serves to inhibit the growth of bacteria, which is otherwise a nuisance in the handling and application of water-soluble plant actives. More particularly, the present invention relates to a butter composition comprising cocoa butter which, in combination with other additives and suitable processing parameters, allows to obtain an ideal dispersion of crystallized fats, water droplets and fat globules in the continuous oil phase. The physical parameters of the resulting compositions are closely controlled to achieve the performances targeted by the present invention. The melting point of the butter composition should be above 15°C, preferably above 20°C, more preferably above 25°C. The melting point of the butter composition should be below 50°C, preferably below 45°C, more preferably below 40°C. The size of the water droplets should be about 2.5 to 10.5 mm in diameter, preferably about 4.5 to 8.5 mm in diameter, preferably about 5.0 to 7.0 mm in diameter. The term "active ingredients" as used herein encompasses both "fat-soluble active ingredients" and "water-soluble active ingredients." Active ingredients derived from waste streams of existing food processing of plant substances are particularly important because the recovery of these active ingredients also serves multiple environmental and sustainability objectives. In some embodiments, the plant-derived cosmetic ingredients are extracted from one or more parts of a plant or mixture of plants. Any common extraction methods practiced in the industry may be used. To optimize the overall yield and extent of recovered actives, supercritical CO2 extraction is the preferred method. In other embodiments of this invention, naturally sourced ethanol is used as a co-extractant with supercritical CO2. The amount of ethanol used depends on the base plants and the targeted active molecules. Typically, about 5% to 25% (volume / volume) ethanol is used with supercritical CO2. In some embodiments, the plant-derived cosmetic ingredients are extracted from existing food process waste streams. In other embodiments, olive oil mill wastewater is treated with adsorbent exchange resins to concentrate the actives on the resins. The actives are then released from the resins and concentrated and incorporated into the butter carrier vehicle. In some embodiments, the winery grape marc is extracted using a supercritical CO2 process as described previously. Many other aspects, features and advantages of the present invention may be apparent from the following detailed description. Detailed description

[0004] The present disclosure is described in detail herein. Other embodiments may be used and / or other modifications may be made without departing from the spirit or scope of the present disclosure. The illustrative information described in the detailed description is not intended to limit the subject matter presented herein. The present invention relates to butter compositions that carry, protect, and deliver cosmetic active ingredients of plant origin. In addition, the butter compositions comprise all natural raw materials and provide a pleasant sensory sensation on human skin that derives from the target melting range and physical structures of the butter, which are the results of both the inventive composition and the manufacturing methods described. In addition, these actives Plant-based butter compositions are proposed for use in various cosmetic formulations to beautify and protect human skin and scalp. In some embodiments, the butter composition comprises cocoa butter and its derivatives such as refined or other color-reduced versions of cocoa butter. In these embodiments, the butter composition along with appropriate plant actives and moisture levels are appropriately processed with a defined cooling rate and mixing rheology to produce the optimal physical states for the desired skin sensory results. In addition to these embodiments, the relative amount of the components in the butter composition is adjusted based on the particular nature of the plant actives it is intended to carry and deliver. In some embodiments, the plant actives are directly extracted from one or more parts of a plant such as the flower, seed, leaf, bark, root, and branch, etc. Many methods for extracting plant actives are known in the industry and all can be employed with adaptations. The supercritical CO2 extraction method is particularly suitable and most preferred for this invention. Without being limited to any theory, the supercritical CO2 extraction method, combining CO2 with optimal levels of natural ethanol, allows for the mildest extraction conditions with the highest complete yields of overall plant actives. In a preferred embodiment, the key extraction parameters are in the following range: extraction temperature 313 to 345 °K, pressure 10 to 35 mPa, and ethanol content 5 to 25%.In one example, the best overall extraction of lavender actives is achieved by subjecting the aerial parts of the plant to the extraction conditions as specified. In other embodiments, the plant actives are extracted from one or more waste streams of existing food processing operations. Many plant materials are already widely used for food purposes. In most cases, not all of the actives are fully utilized in these food products for various reasons such as human taste preferences and / or process limitations. For example, a large amount of actives is discharged in wastewater streams from table olive and olive oil processes. There are also rich actives in the pomace discharged in the wine industry. It is a particular embodiment of this invention that some of these food waste streams are used to produce cosmetic actives. Many extraction methods can be used to extract the actives from these waste streams.The methods particularly suitable for this family of extraction substrates are the solid resin adsorption method and the supercritical CO2 method. In one example, grape wine pomace is extracted using the supercritical CO2 method for cosmetic active ingredients. In recent years, winemaking by-products and other plant-derived agricultural residues have attracted considerable attention as sources of bioactive compounds for various purposes in the cosmetics industry. During winemaking, tons of grape pomace are obtained, consisting mainly of grape skins, seeds, and stems. These components are rich in active ingredients of considerable value. In general, the plant active compounds present in wine and grapes can be classified into three main groups: phenolic acids (hydroxybenzoic and hydroxycinnamic acids), flavonoids (catechins, flavanols, and anthocyanins), and proanthocyanidins. Genetic factors, environmental conditions, and the degree of plant maturation influence the content of these compounds.Supercritical CO2 is the most efficient method to extract these active compounds comprehensively with high yields. In another example, by-product water streams in the processing of table olives and olive oil are extracted using the solid resin adsorption method. The production of olive oil mill water is extremely important. Approximately 30 x 106 tons per year are produced in the Mediterranean region, where 98% of the world's olive oil production is located. This water is unvalued and constitutes a significant environmental concern. Its high COD (chemical oxygen demand, 20-200 g / L) and the presence of 0.1-18 g / L of phenolic compounds cause an unpleasant odor and inhibition of seed germination and aerobic and anaerobic biodegradation processes. The main components of this water are phenolic compounds, sugars, and organic acids, as well as a valuable amount of minerals, especially potassium.Generally, olive oil mill water contains about 95% of the phenolic actives of the original olives, due to their high water solubility. The main classes of phenolic actives are phenolic acids, secoiridoids, and flavonoids, among which hydroxytyrosol, oleuropein, and verbascoside are the most abundant. The active composition of olive water varies both qualitatively and quantitatively depending on the olive variety, climatic conditions, cultivation practices, olive storage time, and the olive oil extraction process. These actives in olive water exhibit strong antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. In particular, hydroxytyrosol is one of the most valuable and expensive phenolic compounds, with high demand in the pharmaceutical, food, and cosmetic fields.Several processes can be applied to recover these plant actives from oil mill water, such as solvent extraction, membrane separation, adsorption and . cloud point extraction, etc. Adsorption is the preferred method for the purposes of this invention. It is relatively simple to design, operationalize, and operate. Both pure neutral adsorbent resins and ion-exchange adsorbent resins can be applied in this invention. A desorption step is performed after the adsorption process. The optimized desorption process involves 3 to 5 consecutive desorption steps performed with a 50% volume / volume mixture of deionized water and natural ethanol. In other embodiments, the plant-active butter composition contains active ingredients from more than one plant species for specific skin beauty performance characteristics. This may be achieved by extracting more than one plant species together using the same extraction method or by separately extracting the different plant species using the same or different methods. In some embodiments, the butter containing plant actives is incorporated directly into oleo-gels or other oil-based products such as lipsticks. In other embodiments, the butter containing plant actives is incorporated into emulsion-based cosmetic formulations where the butter is preferably included in the oil phase before the emulsification step. In some embodiments, the composition and physical structure of the butter effectively protect the sensitive plant actives against instabilities such as those caused by oxidation factors. The butter matrix also aids in the uniform distribution of the actives over the skin surface and facilitates good lateral penetration of the actives into the inner layers of the skin.In these embodiments, the transfer vehicle butter base provides a relatively uniform distribution of the plant actives in the topically applied cosmetic formulations. In addition to these embodiments, the transfer vehicle butter composition actively releases in a controlled manner over a longer period of time, thereby improving the effectiveness of the cosmetic performance. Although various aspects and embodiments have been described, other aspects and embodiments are contemplated. The various aspects and embodiments described are for illustrative purposes and are not intended to be limiting, the true scope and spirit being indicated by the following claims. “Cosmetic product” means any product as defined in Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products. Examples

[0005] The example is intended to demonstrate a typical process for extracting plant active ingredients. and their incorporation into the butter matrix of the invention. It is not intended to limit the scope of this invention, which is described in the claim section. The grape wine marc was obtained from a partner winery. The fresh marc was preserved, frozen, and stored in a freezer at -20°C prior to the extraction step. The raw material was thawed just before extraction and placed in the extraction basket, which was then placed in the extractor. The extractor was pressurized to an operating pressure of 28 mPa with a constant flow of CO2 and heat at 45°C, followed by circulation of CO2 and natural ethanol (10% volume / volume CO2) through the extractor and collection of the extracts in the separator in real time. The extractor was depressurized when the extraction process was completed. The extract was then concentrated at 40 °C and 10 mPa to constant weight.The concentrated extract was then mixed with refined cocoa butter at a ratio of 1:9 (mass / mass) at 45°C under a nitrogen atmosphere. Once well mixed, the composition was rapidly cooled at a rate of approximately 4°C per minute. The resulting active composition was then packaged under the protection of a nitrogen atmosphere.

Claims

Claims

1. 1: A butter base composition containing plant actives for the purpose of transporting and delivering actives, comprising a continuous oil phase of cocoa butter with the following dispersion components: crystallized cocoa fat, water droplets and cocoa fat globules.

2. 2: Composition according to claim 1, wherein the melting point of said butter composition is greater than 15°C, preferably greater than 20°C, more preferably greater than 25°C. The melting point of the butter composition is less than 50°C, preferably less than 45°C, more preferably less than 40°C.

3. 3: The composition of claim 1, wherein the butter composition contains water droplets having a size of about 2.5 to 10.5 mm in diameter, preferably about 4.5 to 8.5 mm in diameter, more preferably about 5.0 to 7.0 mm in diameter.

4. 4: Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the plant active ingredients are directly extracted from at least one component of at least one plant species.

5. 5: Composition according to claim 5, in which a supercritical CO2 extraction process is used to obtain the plant active ingredients.

6. 6: A composition according to claim 6, with the key parameters of the supercritical CO2 extraction process being, an extraction temperature between 313 - 345 °K, an extraction pressure between 10 - 35 mPa, and naturally occurring ethanol used at 5 - 25% (volume / volume) with supercritical CO2.

7. 7: Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the active ingredients are extracted from waste streams originating from existing food processing of plant materials.

8. 8: Composition according to claim 8, in which a supercritical CO2 extraction process is used to obtain the active ingredients from plant waste.

9. 9: A composition according to claim 8, with key extraction parameters of the supercritical CO2 process being an extraction temperature between 313 - 345 °K, an extraction pressure of 10 - 35 mPa and naturally occurring ethanol used at 5 - 25% (vol / vol) with supercritical CO2.

10. 10: The composition of claim 8, wherein the waste stream is olive oil mill water or table olive processing water, and the extraction process is a solid resin adsorption-desorption process.

11. 11: A composition according to claim 11, wherein the adsorbent resin of the process is a pure neutral adsorbent resin or an ion exchange adsorbent resin, and wherein the process includes a desorption step carried out after the adsorption process, which involves 3 to 5 consecutive desorption steps carried out with a 50% (± 5%) volume / volume mixture of deionized water and natural ethanol.