Spirodela polyrhiza extract and its cosmetic uses

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient obtained from duckweed of the species Spirodela polyrhiza and its cosmetic uses, in particular its use as a plumping agent.

Description

Title of the invention: Spirodela polyrhiza extract and its cosmetic uses Technical field

[0001] The invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient obtained from a duckweed of the species Spirodela polyrhiza and its cosmetic uses, in particular its use as a plumping agent.

[0002] State of the art

[0003] The cosmetics industry has a definite interest in issues related to dehydration, particularly skin dehydration. Dehydrated skin is characterized by a water deficit, the causes of which are multifactorial. Among the most common factors, we can notably cite environmental, hormonal, or even those related to taking medication. According to a popular belief, dehydrated skin is dry skin. However, all skin types can be affected, whether the skin is dry, combination or oily. The feeling of tightness, lack of suppleness, loss of volume, a dull complexion, wrinkles and fine lines that appear are all manifestations that are symptomatic of dehydrated skin.

[0004] There is therefore a need for new cosmetic active ingredients with a high hygroscopic potential allowing the plumping effect, hydration and radiance of the skin complexion.

[0005] To meet this need, the inventor was interested in natural raw materials to develop ingredients with high hygroscopic potential. Particular interest was given to pectin-type macromolecules from the aquatic world and specifically to those from duckweed.

[0006] Used for over 2,000 years in traditional Chinese medicine for its ability to promote water metabolism, duckweed has a plant wall comprising original pectins, thus helping to retain water in the plant cells of the plant. These pectins of original structure, apiogalac-turonanes (APG) have been identified only in a few aquatic species, such as in the species Lemna minor, Zostera marina, which are also known in cosmetics for their antioxidant effects.

[0007] In this context, the inventor was interested in a particular species of duckweed, the species Spirodela polyrhiza, and discovered its hygroscopic potential superior to other glycocompounds of pectic (homogalacturonans) or non-pectic (fructosans) origin and its remarkable moisturizing and plumping properties. Summary of the invention

[0008] Thus, the invention relates to a new cosmetic active ingredient obtained from a duckweed belonging to the species Spirodela polyrhiza comprising apioga-lacturonans, in particular its use as a plumping agent. Preferably, the active ingredient according to the invention is enriched in apiogalacturonans.

[0009] Duckweed Spirodela polyrhiza, also called Lemna polyrhiza, or Lemna major or Spirodela polyrrhiza, belonging to the Lemnaceae family, is a perennial aquatic plant covering the surface of ponds by floating, thus regulating temperature variations between the air and the water. It consists of a frond (or thallus) that can reach 10mm in diameter, filled with tiny air pockets that allow it to float, often having 5 to 12 ribs, and comprising 2 to 16 fasciculated roots not exceeding 3 cm in length.

[0010] The duckweed Spirodelapolyrhiza has an original pectic wall containing apiogalacturonans (APG). Their role is to ensure water exchanges as well as to confer great plasticity to the plant during its multiplication. In their native form, the apiogalacturonans of Spirodela polyrhiza have a linear structure composed of a linear chain of galacturonic acids formed by strong bonds, and ramifications of diapiose motifs branched by weak, extremely fragile bonds. Depolluting, antioxidant, depigmenting, anti-wrinkle effects, stimulating the growth of hair, eyelashes or eyebrows have previously been reported for duckweed extracts.

[0011] Also, the invention relates to an active ingredient comprising at least one extract of Spirodelapolyrhiza rich in apiogalacturonans, as well as to its cosmetic use preferentially as a plumping and / or moisturizing agent and / or to improve the radiance of the complexion.

[0012] In order to develop such a naturally derived ingredient (according to the definitions of the ISO 16128 standard) enriched with apiogalacturonans while preserving their native structures, in particular the diapiose units, the extract included in the active ingredient according to the invention is preferably a hydrolyzate. This can be carried out by chemical hydrolysis, or by chemical hydrolysis and enzymatic hydrolysis.

[0013] Advantageously, the active ingredient according to the invention has a hygroscopic potential greater than or equal to 15 water molecules in interaction per monomer.

[0014] The extract according to the invention has been characterized and it comprises carbohydrates, commonly called sugars. Preferably, these represent at least 70% by weight of the dry matter of the extract.

[0015] The carbohydrates included in the extract according to the invention particularly comprise apiogalacturonans, which preferably represent at least 40% in weight of the dry matter of the extract, more preferably between 40 and 70% by weight of the dry matter of the extract.

[0016] Also, the extract according to the invention comprises carbohydrates composed of apiogalacturonans and possibly other sugars. These other sugars preferably represent between 20 and 35% by weight of the dry matter of the extract. For example, the other sugars can be derived from rhamnogalacturonans-I (RG-I).

[0017] The apiogalacturonans present in the extract are composed of a linear chain of galacturonic acids branched with apiose units, more preferably with diapiose units. The extract according to the invention preferably comprises linked apioses.

[0018] According to a preferred object of the invention, the extract has a galacturonic acid / apiose ratio of between 1 and 5, preferably between 2 and 4.

[0019] According to another subject, the apiogalacturonans have a molar mass of between 180 Da and 1360 kDa, as well as an average molar mass of 38 kDa. Preferably at least 40% of the apiogalacturonans have a molar mass of between 3600 Da and 200 kDa.

[0020] According to a particularly preferred object, the extract is capable of being obtained by a process comprising the following steps: a. Solubilization of at least 50 g / L of Spirodelapolyrhiza in water, b. Chemical hydrolysis of acidic nature, or chemical hydrolysis of acidic nature and enzymatic hydrolysis, c. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases and recovery of the soluble phase, d. Heat treatment e. Purification and concentration of the soluble phase, f. Filtration and sterilizing filtration.

[0021] The invention also relates to a process for preparing the active ingredient according to the invention, comprising in particular solubilization of a Spirodela polyrhiza biomass in water, chemical hydrolysis of an acidic nature, or chemical hydrolysis and enzymatic hydrolysis, separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, then recovery of the soluble phase, purification and optionally concentration of the soluble phase followed by filtration and sterilizing filtration.

[0022] The active ingredient according to the invention advantageously has an effect chosen from a plumping effect, a radiance booster, i.e. improving the radiance of the complexion, and a moisturizing effect, thus making it possible to address the problems of the prior art. Also, it can be used for cosmetic applications and thus be integrated into a cosmetic composition, advantageously a composition in a form suitable for topical application.

[0023] Thus, according to another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application comprising at least one active ingredient according to any of the embodiments previously described and a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0024] Preferably, the active ingredient contained in the composition according to the invention represents at least 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The active ingredient or composition according to the invention is intended for cosmetic applications. Thus, according to another aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of the active ingredient according to any one of the embodiments or of a composition according to any one of the embodiments. Preferably, the cosmetic use aims at a topical application making it possible to obtain a plumping effect and / or a moisturizer and / or improving the radiance of the complexion.

[0026] In particular, the active ingredient or composition according to the invention increases the cutaneous cell volume, preferably the volume of keratinocytes, and / or the expression of aquaporin 3 and / or the synthesis of the BGT-1 transporter.

[0027] Finally, according to a last aspect, the invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of dehydrated skin which consists of the application to the dehydrated skin of a composition according to the invention or of an active ingredient as described previously.

[0028] Other characteristics and advantages will emerge from the detailed description of the invention, the examples and the figures which follow. Brief description of the Figures

[0029] [Fig.l] represents the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention, of the extracts outside the invention according to Examples 3 and 4, on the quantity, depth and maintenance over time of the water D2O captured by the skin, 3 hours after a single application.

[0030] [Fig.2] represents the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on the quantity of water total and depth at the level of the epidermis of volunteers 3 hours after a single application.

[0031] [Fig.3] represents the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on the quantity of water total at the level of the epidermis of Caucasian volunteers after 42 days of twice-daily application.

[0032] [Fig.4] represents the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on the radiance of the complexion after 21 and 42 days of twice-daily treatment by Caucasian volunteers.

[0033] [Fig.5] represents the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on the radiance of the complexion after 21 and 42 days of twice-daily treatment by Asian volunteers. Detailed description of the invention

[0034] Definition

[0035] By “cosmetic active ingredient” within the meaning of the invention, we mean an extract comprising at least one molecule, preferably a set of molecules having a cosmetic effect on the skin, when applied topically.

[0036] For the purposes of the invention, the term “naturally derived ingredient” means a cosmetic ingredient obtained by defined chemical and / or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying it. These chemical modifications are intentional, and the structures of the molecules obtained are therefore no longer identical to the molecules present in nature.

[0037] For the purposes of the invention, the term “Spirodela polyrhiza hydrolysate” means an active ingredient derived from duckweed of the species Spirodela polyrhiza, obtained by a process comprising at least one step of hydrolysis of Spirodela polyrhiza. The term “Spirodela polyrhiza hydrolysate” excludes molecules produced solely by fermentation of Spirodela polyrhiza by a microorganism or an infusion / decoction / maceration of Spirodela polyrhiza.

[0038] For the purposes of the invention, the term "Spirodela polyrhiza" means the duckweed of the Lemnaceae family and of the species Spirodela polyrhiza also known under the names Lemna polyrrhiza, Lemna major, Lemna maxima, Spirodela polyrrhiza, thus excluding the species Lemna minor or Zostera marina.

[0039] By "plumping" in the sense of the invention, we mean an effect allowing to increase the skin cell volume. This effect is often associated with the term "plumped skin".

[0040] By "hygroscopic potential of a molecule" within the meaning of the invention, we mean the capacity of the structure of a molecule to interact, bind and retain water molecules around its chemical structure.

[0041] For the purposes of the invention, the term "dehydrated skin" means skin suffering from a water deficit, thus presenting a feeling of discomfort, tightness, and a lack of suppleness. These signs of dehydration are not those of dry skin suffering from a lack of oil. Dehydrated skin affects all skin types, whether dry, combination, or oily.

[0042] For the purposes of the invention, the term “monomer” means a galacturonic acid monosaccharide or an apiose monosaccharide.

[0043] For the purposes of the invention, the term "galacturonic acid / apiose ratio" means the ratio between the number of moles of galacturonic acid and the number of moles of apiose in the apiogalacturonans.

[0044] Active ingredient according to the invention

[0045] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one extract of Spirodela polyrhiza, the extract comprising apiogalacturonans. Such an active ingredient is of particular interest and makes it possible to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art in that it has a high hygroscopic potential obtained by the preservation of the apiogalacturonan molecules included in the extract of Spirodela polyrhiza. Thanks to its remarkable hygroscopic properties, the active ingredient according to the invention hydrates the skin from the stratum corneum to the upper dermis, resulting in a plumping, hydrating or radiance-boosting effect.

[0046] Also, the active ingredient according to the invention preferably has a hygroscopic potential greater than or equal to 15 water molecules in interaction per monomer, more preferably greater than or equal to 20 water molecules in interaction per monomer.

[0047] The active ingredient according to the invention is enriched in apiogalacturonans, preferably the apiogalacturonans represent at least 40% by weight of the dry matter of the extract, more preferably they represent between 40% and 70% by weight of the dry matter of the extract.

[0048] The active ingredient according to the invention comprises sugars, in particular carbohydrates (neutral sugars and uronic acids), the carbohydrates preferably representing at least 70% by weight of the dry matter of the extract. The content of total neutral sugars in said active ingredient can be determined by the DUBOIS method (Dubois M. et al., Analytical chemistry, 28, 3, 350-356, 1956). The content of total neutral sugars in the active ingredient according to the invention is expressed as a percentage relative to the dry matter.

[0049] The carbohydrates present in the extract may be in the form of mainly polysaccharides, oligosaccharides and very few monosaccharides. Thus, the carbohydrates of the active ingredient according to the invention have an average molar mass of 38 kDa, and molar masses of between 180 Da and 1,360 kDa.

[0050] In particular, the carbohydrates present in the extract according to the invention comprise apiogalacturonans and other sugars. Preferably, the other sugars represent between 20 and 35% by weight of the dry matter of the extract. The other sugars may, for example, comprise rhamnose, galactose, derived from rhamnogalacturonans-I (RG-I), arabinose or glucose.

[0051] The apiogalacturonans present in the extract are preferentially composed of a linear chain of galacturonic acids branched with ramifications of diapiose units.

[0052] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention may be in liquid form, in solid form or in film form.

[0053] When it is presented in liquid form, the active ingredient according to the invention consists exclusively of the extract of Spirodela polyrhiza accompanied by a stabilizer and / or preservation system.

[0054] The extract in liquid form is preferably in the form of a clear liquid aqueous solution, with a weak odor and a very pale yellow to light yellow color. It can, however, be more colored and / or be decolorized by any known method of the person skilled in the art.

[0055] The inventor also determined the dry matter content of the extract. This can be determined by weighing the residues resulting from drying the extract according to the invention at 105°C in an oven until a constant weight is obtained. Preferably, the extract according to the invention in liquid form has a dry matter content of 3 g / l to 20 g / l, preferably of 5 g / L to 8 g / L.

[0056] When it is in solid form, the active ingredient according to the invention is preferably constituted by the extract of Spirodela polyrhiza as previously described and by a support chosen from maltodextrin, gum arabic, soy lecithin or isomalt. According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the extract represents at least 10% by weight of the active ingredient and the support at most 90% by weight of the active ingredient.

[0057] In the case of a solid form in which the active ingredient is associated with a carrier, the protein, sugar and ash contents in the active ingredient are modified, the carrier generally being made up mainly of sugars.

[0058] The active ingredient according to the invention may also be presented in the form of a film. In this case, the Spirodela polyrhiza extract preferably represents at least 0.1% by weight of the film.

[0059] When it is in the form of a film, the active ingredient comprises: - at least the extract of Spirodela polyrhiza according to the invention. - at least one mineral filler, and - at least one polymer of natural origin, and - at least one plasticizer, and - at least one surfactant, and

[0060] The polymer of natural origin can be chosen from: Pectin, Tamarind gum, Alginate, Pullulan, Psyllium, Xanthan, Guar, Tara, Carob, Agar, Gum arabic, Gellan, Dextran, Carrageenan, Cellulose, Konjac and Chitosan.

[0061] The plasticizer can be chosen from: Glycerol, Sorbitol, Sucrose, Erythritol, Urea, Propylene glycol and Butylene glycol.

[0062] The mineral filler can be chosen from: Calcium carbonate, green clay, kaolin, perlite, talc, magnesium silicate, mica, diatomaceous sericite, silica, calcium sulfate, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, iron oxide and zinc oxide.

[0063] The active ingredient may further comprise a pigment for coloring the film.

[0064] The extract of Spirodela polyrhiza is preferably a hydrolyzate. The hydrolyzate can be obtained by all types of hydrolysis, preferably by chemical hydrolysis of an acidic nature, or by chemical hydrolysis of an acidic nature and enzymatic hydrolysis.

[0065] Also, the extract according to the invention is preferably an acid hydrolyzate or a hy- acid-enzymatic drolysate.

[0066] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the extract of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention can be obtained by an extraction process comprising the following steps: a. Solubilization of at least 50 g / L of Spirodelapolyrhiza in water, b. Chemical hydrolysis of acidic nature, or chemical hydrolysis and enzymatic hydrolysis, c. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases and recovery of the soluble phase, d. Heat treatment, e. Purification and concentration of the soluble phase, f. Filtration and sterilizing filtration.

[0067] Cosmetic composition according to the invention

[0068] The active ingredient according to the invention may optionally be integrated into a cosmetic composition, in particular a composition comprising at least 0.1% by weight of said active ingredient and a physiologically acceptable medium, preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium.

[0069] These compositions may be presented in particular in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions (Water / Oil / Water or Oil / Water / Oil) which may optionally be microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or in the form of solutions, suspensions, hydrodispersions, aqueous gels, powders, or foundation or in the form of a film. They may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of creams, emulsions, gels, masks or any other aspects of healthy skin care cosmetics.

[0070] These may be compositions comprising at least 0.1% of the liquid active ingredient according to the invention, preferably between 0.1 and 10%.

[0071] These compositions comprise, in addition to the active ingredient, a physiologically acceptable medium such as a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which does not cause sensations of discomfort for the user such as redness, tightness or tingling.

[0072] The compositions according to the invention may contain as adjuvant at least one compound chosen from: - oils, which may be chosen in particular from silicone oils, linear or cyclic, volatile or non-volatile, - waxes, such as ozokerite, polyethylene wax, beeswax or camauba wax, - silicone elastomers, - surfactants, preferably emulsifying, whether non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric, - co-surfactants, such as linear fatty alcohols, - thickeners and / or gelling agents, - humectants, such as polyols like glycerin, - colorants, preservatives, fillers, - tensors, - sequestrants, - perfumes, - and their mixtures, without this list being exhaustive.

[0073] Examples of such adjuvants are cited in particular in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook published by the Personal Care Product Council).

[0074] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible complementary compounds, active or non-active, and their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or not significantly, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0075] Process for extracting the extract according to the invention

[0076] The extract constituting or contained in the active ingredient according to the invention can be obtained by any means.

[0077] According to a preferred embodiment, the extraction method comprises at least one step of extracting the duckweed Spirodelapolyrhiza, such as a hydrolysis step chosen from chemical hydrolysis of an acidic nature, enzymatic hydrolysis and their combination.

[0078] Prior to the process for obtaining the extract as such, a culture of the Spirodela polyrhiza biomass is carried out in a medium suitable for their development, for example a suitable culture medium, in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art. Once the biomass has been obtained, an extraction step is carried out, preferably an acid hydrolysis, or acid and enzymatic hydrolyses in order to obtain the active molecules.

[0079] According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the active ingredient according to the invention is obtained by implementing the following steps: a. Solubilization of at least 50 g / L of Spirodelapolyrhiza in water, b. Chemical hydrolysis of acidic nature, or chemical hydrolysis of acidic nature and enzymatic hydrolysis, c. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases and recovery of the soluble phase, d. Purification and concentration of the soluble phase, e. Filtration and sterilizing filtration.

[0080] The hydrolysis conditions are chosen to obtain an extract enriched in apiogalac-turonanes preserving a structure of galacturonic acids and diapiose branches.

[0081] The separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by centrifugation, filtration or decantation. The separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out to recover the soluble phase containing, among other things, soluble sugars, such as apiogalacturonans.

[0082] Optionally, an additional heat treatment step can be carried out to inactivate the enzyme used. This inactivation is then carried out according to the recommendations of the supplier of the enzyme used.

[0083] Optionally, the method comprises a filtration step after recovery of the soluble phase to remove the particles still in suspension. Thus, this filtration step allows the purification of the recovered soluble phase and is carried out in order to select the active molecules.

[0084] The hydrolyzate obtained at this stage can optionally be further concentrated and / or purified, preferably by successive ultrafiltration steps through membranes of different porosity, retaining the active molecules at each step and / or by a chromatographic type method.

[0085] The hydrolyzate obtained after hydrolysis and filtration, before or after concentration and sterilizing filtration, is a hydrolyzate of Spirodela polyrhiza, and constitutes a first form of the active ingredient according to the invention, then appearing in liquid form.

[0086] The hydrolyzate obtained can then be dried and associated or not with a support, to be in solid form. This phase can be carried out by implementing the following steps: - an atomization support, preferably maltodextrin, is added to the Spirodela polyrhiza hydrolyzate, of at most 90% (mass / volume); - this solution is then concentrated under vacuum; - elimination of any bacteria present is carried out by heat treatment; - atomization makes it possible to obtain a powder.

[0087] The steps of the processes described above, taken individually, are customary in the field of extractions of active ingredients from natural raw materials and those skilled in the art are able to adjust the reaction parameters on the basis of their general knowledge.

[0088] Cosmetic use

[0089] The active ingredient according to the invention or the composition according to the invention is intended to be used on healthy skin, in particular dehydrated healthy skin, in par- particularly as a plumper, moisturizer, and radiance booster.

[0090] Preferably, the cosmetic use of the active ingredient according to the invention or of the composition according to the invention aims at a plumping and / or moisturizing effect and / or to improve the radiance of the complexion, more preferably to increase the cutaneous cell volume, and / or the expression of aquaporin 3 and / or the synthesis of the BGT-1 transporter and / or the natural moisturizing factors (NHF).

[0091] Aquaporins, small channels integrated into cell membranes, allow the dynamic and efficient circulation of water. Aquaporin 3 is mainly present in the skin, particularly in the membrane of keratinocytes. The level of hydration of the epidermis depends on the optimal distribution of these channels in all layers. By ensuring the flow of three billion water molecules per second, they guarantee an epidermis correctly irrigated all the way to the surface.

[0092] The osmolyte transporter BGT-1 (betaine-GABA transporter) is a regulator of the intracellular content of betaine, one of the major osmolytes in the epidermis. Indeed, one of the defense mechanisms of cells against water stress is osmotic adjustment. Osmolytes are small soluble molecules that play a role in protecting the cell against water deficit. Under stress conditions, osmolytes accumulate within the cell thanks to the activity of specific transporters in order to prevent water loss and maintain cellular structures. In addition to combating cell dehydration, betaine plays a chaperone role that stabilizes the structure and function of proteins, particularly those involved in tight junctions.

[0093] Natural moisturizing factors (NHF) are a group of intracorneocyte hydrophilic substances contained in the stratum corneum, mainly resulting from the degradation of filaggrin, and are essentially composed of amino acids (40%), the majority of which is serine, PCA (pyrrolidone-carboxylic acid) (12%), lactate (12%), urea (7%) and inorganic ions. Their presence makes it possible to capture free water, retain it within the corneocytes and thus play an important role in maintaining the physical properties of the stratum corneum. Lactate in particular would maintain the acid pH of the stratum corneum, one of the important parameters guaranteeing the integrity and cohesion of the stratum corneum.

[0094] The active ingredient according to the invention is of particular interest for its plumping, moisturizing and skin radiance-boosting effects.

[0095] The invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic process for treating the skin for a plumping and / or moisturizing effect and / or to improve the radiance of the complexion which consists of the topical application to the healthy dehydrated skin of a person of such an active ingredient according to the invention or of such a composition according to the invention.

[0096] The active ingredient according to the invention or the composition according to the invention thus allows to improve the plumping effect and hydration. Indeed, in volunteers with dehydrated facial skin and a dull complexion, after 42 days of twice-daily applications of a cosmetic composition containing the active ingredient, the active ingredient significantly plumps the facial skin. This effect is accompanied by a smoothing of the skin microrelief and an improvement in the parameters characteristic of the volunteers' complexion radiance.

[0097] The invention is now illustrated by non-limiting examples of compositions according to the invention and by efficacy results. Examples

[0098] Example 1: Active ingredient according to the invention fPAl)

[0099] The active ingredient of Example 1 is obtained from a duckweed of the species Spirodela polyrhiza. The active ingredient of Example 1 is obtained by the following process: - Solubilization of at least 50 g / L of Spirodelapolyrhiza in water, - Chemical hydrolysis of acid nature and enzymatic hydrolysis - Separation of soluble and insoluble phases and recovery of the soluble phase, - Thermal treatment - Purification and concentration of the soluble phase, - Filtration and sterilizing filtration.

[0100] The active ingredient obtained has the following characteristics: - Dry Matter Content = 7.4 g / L - Total Neutral Sugars Content (according to the Dubois method) = 2.4 g / L, or 32%, by weight relative to the dry matter - Uronic acid content = 3.2g / l, or 43%, by weight relative to dry matter - Apiogalacturonan content = 55% by weight relative to dry matter - Ratio galacturonic acid / apiose = 3.7 - Mineral ash content = 1.7 g / L (23% by weight relative to dry matter) pH = 3.5 - Clear, very pale yellow liquid, faint odor

[0101] Example 2: Active ingredient according to the invention (PA2)

[0102] The active ingredient of Example 2 is obtained from a duckweed of the species Spirodela polyrhiza. The active ingredient of Example 2 is obtained by the following process: - Solubilization of at least 50g / L of Spirodela polyrhiza in water - Chemical hydrolysis of an acidic nature, - Separation of soluble and insoluble phases and recovery of the soluble phase - Purification and concentration of the soluble phase - Filtration and sterilizing filtration.

[0103] The active ingredient obtained has the following characteristics: - Dry Matter Content = 6.6 g / L - Total Sugar Content (according to the Dubois method - glucose range) = 2.6g / L (39% by weight relative to dry matter) - Uronic acid content = 2.2g / l (33% by weight relative to dry matter) - Apiogalacturonan content = 40% by weight relative to dry matter - Galacturonic acid / apiose ratio = 2.3 pH = 3.5 - Clear, light yellow liquid, low odor

[0104] Example 3: Active ingredient outside the invention fHIl)

[0105] The active ingredient of Example 3 is obtained from Pyrus malus fruit, comprising homogalacturonan-type saccharides, i.e. an unbranched galacturonic acid chain. This active ingredient is obtained according to the following process: - Solubilization of Pyrus malus fruit in water, - Enzymatic hydrolysis, - Separation of soluble and insoluble phases, - Thermal treatment, - Purification and concentration of the soluble phase - Filtration and sterilizing filtration.

[0106] The active ingredient according to example 3 has the following characteristics: - Dry matter content of 164 g / L - Uronic acid content = 126g / l, or 77% by weight compared to the dry matter - Identification of the sugars present: galacturonic acid - Content of bound apioses: 0g / l - Apiogalacturonan content = 0g / l pH = 3.1 - Clear orange-yellow liquid

[0107] Despite a polysaccharide structure with a linear chain of galacturonic acids, this active ingredient differs from the active ingredient according to the invention in that it does not contain apioses and no apiogalacturonans.

[0108] Example 4: Active ingredient outside the invention fHI2)

[0109]

[0110] [YES]

[0112]

[0113] The active ingredient of Example 4 is obtained from the roots of Ophiopogon japonicus and comprises fructosan-type saccharides, i.e. a fructose chain. This product is obtained according to the following process: - Solubilization of Ophiopogon japonicus root powder in water - Enzymatic hydrolysis - Separation of soluble and insoluble phases - Thermal treatment - Purification - Filtration and sterilizing filtration The product obtained according to example 4 has the following characteristics: - Dry matter content of 123 g / L - Total sugar content (according to the Dubois method with fructose range) = 115 g / L, or 93% by weight relative to dry matter. - Identification of the sugars present: fructose and glucose - Apiose content = 0g / l - Apiogalacturonan content = 0g / l pH = 5.1. - Clear yellow liquid This example differs from the active ingredient according to the invention in that it does not contain apiogalacturonans. Example 5: Composition according to the invention An example of a formulation of a serum comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in gel form is presented in Table 1 below.

[0114] [Tables 1] Ingredients % A Purified Water qs 100 B Polyquaternium-37 & Water 0.70 C Butylene Glycol 5.00 Glyceryl Caprylate 1.00 1,2-Hexanediol 1.00 Glycerin 1.00 Glycereth-26 4.00 Isopentyldiol 4.00 Caprylic / Capric / Succinic Triglyceride 1.50 D ACTIVE INGREDIENT INVENTION 3.00 E Sodium Chloride 7% qs pH

[0115] The composition of Example 5 can in particular be obtained by the following process: - Sprinkle B into A, stir until a homogeneous gel is obtained. - Add the materials from phase C one by one with moderate stirring. - Add D with moderate stirring. - Adjust pH to 6.0 - 6.5 with E.

[0116] The composition is then in the form of a soft, white and shiny opalescent gel having a pH at 1 month equal to 6.2, a viscosity (C / 5rpm) equal to 16,600 cP.

[0117] Example 6: Composition according to the invention

[0118] An example of a formulation comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a cream is presented in Table 2 below.

[0119] [T ables 2] Ingredients % Al Purified Water qsp 100 Butylene Glycol 3.00 A2 Glycerin 2.00 5.00 Isopropyl Myristate 4.00 Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil 3.00 Dimethicone 1.00 Tocopherol & Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 0.05 C Sodium Polyacrylate 1.00 D ACTIVE INGREDIENT INVENTION 3.00

[0120] The composition of Example 6 can in particular be obtained by the following process: - Add A2 to Al with moderate stirring, stir until a homogeneous gel is obtained and heat to 80°C - Place B under stirring and heat to 80°C - Emulsify B in A under shearing agitation for 10 minutes - At 40°C, with moderate stirring, add C then D.

[0121] The composition is then in the form of a thick, white and shiny emulsion having a pH at 1 month equal to 6, a viscosity (C / 5rpm) equal to 318,000 cP.

[0122] Example 7: Composition according to the invention

[0123] An example of a formulation comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a cream is presented in Table 3 below.

[0124] [Tables3] Ingredients % Al Purified Water qs 100% Butylene Glycol 2.00 Soda Solution 28% 0.55 A2 Isopentyldiol 2.00 Glycerin 2.00 Triglycerides 2.00 Squalane 4.00 Isononyl Isononanoate 5.00 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 7.50 Isocetyl Stearate 3.25 Caprylyl Methicone 4.00 C Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acry-loyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Poly-isobutene & PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether 0.75 D ACTIVE INGREDIENT INVENTION 3.00

[0125] The composition of Example 7 can in particular be obtained by the following process: - Add A2 to Al with moderate stirring, stir until a homogeneous gel is obtained and heat to 80°C - Place B under stirring and heat to 80°C - Emulsify B in A under shearing agitation for 10 minutes. - At 40°C, with moderate stirring, add C then D.

[0126] The composition is then in the form of a flexible, white and shiny emulsion having a pH at 1 month equal to 4.8, a viscosity (C / 5rpm) equal to 58,000 cP.

[0127] Example 8: Composition according to the invention

[0128] An example of a formulation comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a foundation is presented in Table 4 below.

[0129] [Tables4] Ingredients % Al Purified Water qsp 100% Sodium Gluconate 0.20 Glycerin 2.00 Butylene Glycol 3.00 A2 Ci 77499 (Iron Oxides) & Silica 0.10 Ci 77491 (Iron Oxides) & Silica 0.50 Ci 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) & Silica 6.50 Ci 77492 (Iron Oxides) & Silica 1.00 B Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosuccinate 1.00 Glyceryl Stearate 1.50 Cetearyl Alcohol 0.50 Pentaerythrityl Distearate 1.20 Pentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate 0.80 Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate / Hexacaprate 3.00 Cocoglycerides 3.00 Isocetyl Stearate 3.00 Propanediol Dicaprylate 5.00 Diisopropyl Adipate 4.00 Dimethicone 4.00 VP / Hexadecene Copolymer 2.00 Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 0.30 Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acry-loyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer 0.30 C ACTIVE INGREDIENT INVENTION 3.00

[0130] The composition of Example 8 can in particular be obtained by the following process: - Disperse A2 in Al under shear stirring until homogeneous and heat to 80°C - Place B under stirring and heat to 80°C - Emulsify B in A under shearing agitation for 10 minutes. - At 40°C, with moderate stirring, add C.

[0131] The composition is then in the form of a thick emulsion, pinkish beige in color, having a pH at 1 month equal to 5.9, a viscosity (C / 5rpm) equal to 123,000 cP.

[0132] Mechanism of action of the effectiveness of the active ingredient according to the invention

[0133] Test 1 - Effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on the expression of aquaporins 3.

[0134] The expression of aquaporin 3 (AQP3) was assessed by quantitative PCR on normal human keratinocytes subjected to water stress.

[0135] On D0, the human keratinocytes are seeded and incubated at 37°C in an atmosphere containing 5% CO2. On D4, the cells are treated with the active ingredient according to the invention at 0.5% (v / v) and then incubated at 37°C under 5% CO2 in a normal environment or in a dry environment for 24 hours. On D5, the cells are recovered and the total RNAs extracted. The RNAs were reverse-transcribed and the complementary DNAs obtained were analyzed by the quantitative PCR technique.

[0136] The results are presented in Table 5 below.

[0137] [Tables5] AQP3 expression (%) AQP3 / dehydrated control (%) Normal keratinocytes Control 100 ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA1) 0.5% 112 Dehydrated keratinocytes Control 80 ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA1) 0.5% 113* +41 ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA2) 0.5% 110* +38 EXTRACT OUTSIDE OF THE INVENTION (HI1) 0.025% 78 0

[0138] The dehydrated model shows a significantly reduced expression of aquaporin 3 of 20%. Tested at 0.5% on dehydrated keratinocytes, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly increases the expression of aquaporin 3 by 41%. The active ingredient according to the invention thus stimulates the synthesis of one of the key mediators of hydration.

[0139] Test 2 - Effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on the expression of BGT-1.

[0140] BGT-1 synthesis was assessed by immunohistofluorescence on normal human skin explants subjected to water stress.

[0141] For several days, the explants are incubated at 37°C under 5% CO2 in a normal environment or in a dry environment (water stress). The explants are treated topically with the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 0.5% and 1.0% (V / V) or with the placebo.

[0142] At the end of the treatments, the explants are recovered and frozen. Sections (4 μm) are then made using a cryostat, in order to analyze the synthesis of BGT-1 by immunohistofluorescence using anti-BGT-1 antibodies.

[0143] BGT-1 synthesis is proportional to fluorescence intensity. Statistical analysis is performed with the non-parametric Mann-Whitney test.

[0144] The results are presented in Table 6 below.

[0145] [Tableauxô] BGT-1 synthesis (UA) Capacity to restore BGT-1 synthesis (%) Normal explants Control 24 ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA1) 1.0% 24 Dehydrated explants Control 19 Placebo 20ns ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA1) 0.5% 22s +60 ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA1) 1.0% 24s +100

[0146] The dehydrated explant model is characterized by a significant decrease in BGT-1 of 21%. Tested at 1% on a dehydrated model, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly restores the synthesis of BGT-1. The active ingredient according to the invention thus makes it possible to restore the cutaneous osmotic balance.

[0147] Test 3 - Effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on cell volume.

[0148] Monitoring of the volume of normal human keratinocytes was performed before and during the application of hyperosmotic stress to mimic a state of dehydration.

[0149] At D0, the keratinocytes are seeded in culture medium and incubated at 37°C in an atmosphere containing 5% CO2. They are then treated with the active ingredient according to the invention at 0.5% (V / V) and incubated at 37°C in an atmosphere containing 5% CO2. After several days, the keratinocytes are labeled with a fluorescent probe, calcein, then replaced in culture medium containing or not the active ingredient according to the invention at 0.5% (V / V).

[0150] Visualization is then performed using a microscope coupled to a camera and an image analysis system. Stacks of images of the living cells are taken in order to be able to visualize the cells in 3-dimensions, every two minutes over a total duration of 18 minutes, divided into 2 phases. A 1st phase (0 to 6 minutes) in iso-osmotic conditions (normal culture medium), and a 2nd phase (8 to 18 minutes) in hyper-osmotic stress.

[0151] A quantitative analysis of the cell volume was carried out using an image analysis script developed by the inventor. The results are expressed as a percentage of the initial cell volume.

[0152] The results are presented in Table 7 below.

[0153] [Tables7] Cell volume (%) Cell volume / control (%) Time (min) Osmotic condition Control ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA1) 0.5% ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION / Control 0 Phase 1: iso-osmotic condition 100 100 2 94 95 4 93 96 6 93 95 8 Phase 2: hyper-osmotic stress 58 66*** + 14 10 58 66*** + 14 12 58 66*** + 14 14 57 66*** + 16 16 57 66*** + 16 18 57 65*** + 14

[0154] After hyperosmotic stress, the average cell volume is reduced by 43%. When keratinocytes are pretreated with the active ingredient according to the invention at 0.5%, the cell volume after a hyperosmotic shock is only reduced by 34%. Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly limits the loss of cell volume following a hyperosmotic shock by 16%. The active ingredient according to the invention therefore makes it possible to retain intracellular water.

[0155] Test 4 - Effect of the active ingredient according to the invention in capturing water in the epidermis,

[0156] Test 4 aims to demonstrate the capacity of the active ingredient according to the invention to capture water in the heart of the epidermis, and to compare this effectiveness with two examples outside the invention. To do this, the analysis targets the penetration and maintenance of deuterated water (D2O) supplied exogenously in the skin 30 minutes and 3 hours after application. The measurements are carried out by Raman microspectroscopy at different depths for 10 minutes.

[0157] The exogenous water supply was carried out by applying a patch containing deuterated water (D2O) to the skin surface; the marking made it possible to specifically monitor its penetration into the skin. This study was carried out on 7 healthy Caucasian female volunteers, aged 45 to 66 years and with dehydrated skin on the forearms.

[0158] At T0, the 4 emulsions (placebo emulsion, emulsion containing 3% of the active ingredient of the invention in Example 1, emulsion containing 0.12% of the extract outside the invention according to Example 3, emulsion containing 0.12% of the extract outside the invention according to Example 4) are applied to the volunteers by massage until complete penetration. At T3 hours, an occlusive patch containing D2O is applied for 30 minutes, on the areas previously treated with the emulsions. After 30 minutes, the patch is removed and the residual water is eliminated. Raman microspectroscopy measurements are carried out.

[0159] The results on the quantity of D2O in the epidermis for the 4 emulsions are presented in [Fig.l].

[0160] Compared to the placebo and the extracts outside the invention of Examples 3 and 4, the active ingredient according to the invention has a significantly different effect. Water penetrates in greater quantity, more deeply and remains longer in the skin. These results thus reflect in vivo the superior hygroscopic power of the active ingredient according to the invention compared to the extracts outside the invention.

[0161] In vivo evaluation of the biological activity of the active ingredient according to the invention

[0162] Test 5 - Study of the total water content in the epidermis,

[0163] The study aims to evaluate in vivo the immediate effect and the long-term effect of the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion on the total water content of the epidermis in comparison with a placebo formula.

[0164] The immediate effect of the active ingredient according to the invention was studied on 19 healthy Caucasian female volunteers, aged 35 to 65 years, with dehydrated skin on the face, irregular microrelief at the crow's feet and a dull complexion.

[0165] The long-term effect of the active ingredient according to the invention was studied on 17 healthy Caucasian female volunteers, aged 44 to 65 years, with dehydrated facial skin, irregular microrelief at the crow's feet and a dull complexion.

[0166] The measurements are carried out by Raman microspectroscopy on symmetrical areas at the level of the cheeks, before and then 3 hours after a single application of the products under study on the half-face (immediate effect), and before and after 21 and 42 days of twice-daily treatment on the half-face (long-term effect). The total water content was evaluated by studying the ratio of the Raman vOH-total / vCH bands.

[0167] The results corresponding to the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention, formulated at 3% in emulsion, on the quantity of total water at the level of the epidermis of Caucasian volunteers are presented in [Fig.2] for the immediate effect and [Fig.3] for the long-term effect.

[0168] As early as 3 hours after a single application, the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion, significantly increases the quantity of total water retained in the epidermis. These increases were observed in 60% of the volunteers. This effect intensifies after 42 days of twice-daily application. Indeed, the active ingredient according to the invention causes a significant increase in the quantity of total water at the level of the stratum corneum. These increases were observed in more than 75% of the volunteers.

[0169] Test 6 - Study of natural hydration factors,

[0170] The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo, in comparison with a placebo formula, the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion on natural hydration factors, a set of intracorneocyte hydrophilic substances (eg lactate, urea, inorganic ion, amino acid) present in the stratum corneum.

[0171] The study was carried out on two groups of healthy Caucasian female volunteers with dehydrated facial skin, irregular microrelief at the crow's feet and a dull complexion. A placebo group consisting of 18 subjects aged 35 to 67 years and a group with the active ingredient according to the invention consisting of 20 subjects aged 36 to 67 years. The volunteers applied the active ingredient according to the invention or the placebo to the entire face, twice daily, for 42 days. Lactate was measured by fluorimetry from samples taken from the cheeks.

[0172] The results corresponding to the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion on the lactate concentration, are presented in Table 8.

[0173] [Tables8] Variation D21 / D0 Variation D42 / D0 PLACEBO -1.0- -0.9- ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA1) 3% +31.7S +50.2S Comparison ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION / Placebo +32.7% +51.2%

[0174] Tested at 3% on a Caucasian panel, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly increases the lactate concentration compared to the placebo. Indeed, after 21 days of twice-daily treatment, the lactate concentration is significantly increased by 32.7%. This effect intensifies after 42 days of treatment with a significant increase of 51.2%.

[0175] Test 7 - Study of water losses

[0176] The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion on water loss after a single application, in comparison with a placebo formula. The study was carried out on 16 healthy Caucasian female volunteers, aged 35 to 65 years, with dehydrated skin on the face, an irregular microrelief at the crow's feet and a dull complexion. The measurements were carried out using a Tewamètre® (Courage & Khazaka) on symmetrical areas on the cheeks, before and then 3 and 6 hours after a single application of the products on the half-face.

[0177] The results corresponding to the capacity of the active ingredient according to the invention, formulated at 3% in emulsion, to limit water losses are presented in Table 9.

[0178] [Tables9] T3H / T0 variation T6H / T0 variation PLACEBO +0.4- +2.6- ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA1) 3% -11.5S -13.F Comparison ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION / Placebo -11.9% -15.7%

[0179] From 3 hours after a single application, the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3%, makes it possible to reduce water losses by 11.9% compared to the placebo. This action is amplified 6 hours after application with a reduction in water loss of 15.7%, an effect observed in 69% of subjects. The active ingredient according to the invention therefore makes it possible to retain water in the heart of the epidermis.

[0180] Evaluation of the cosmetic efficacy of the active ingredient according to the invention

[0181] Test 8 - Immediate moisturizing effect of the active ingredient according to the invention

[0182] The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo the immediate effect of the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion, on the hydration of the deep and superficial layers of the skin of Caucasian volunteers in comparison with a placebo formula. This study was carried out on 16 healthy Caucasian female volunteers, aged between 35 and 65 years, with dehydrated facial skin, irregular microrelief at the crow's feet and a dull complexion. The immediate hydrating effect at the epidermis and upper dermis was evaluated by measuring the hydration level using a MoistureMeter-D (Delfin Technologies). The ability of the active ingredient according to the invention to immediately hydrate the stratum corneum was evaluated by measuring the hydration level using a Cor-néomètre® CM825 (Courage & Khazaka). The measurements were carried out 3 and 6 hours after a single application of the active ingredient according to the invention and the placebo on one half of the face.

[0183] The results showing the immediate effect of the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion, on the hydration of the epidermis and the upper dermis are presented in table 10 and on the hydration of the stratum corneum in table 11.

[0184] [TableauxlO] On the epidermis and upper dermis T3H / T0 variation T6H / T0 variation PLACEBO -1.5- -1.6ns ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA1) 3% +10.4S +14.2S Comparison ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION / Placebo +11.9% +15.8%

[0185] As early as 3 hours after a single application, compared to the placebo, the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion significantly increases skin hydration at the level of the epidermis and upper dermis by 11.9%. This effect continues 6 hours after application with an increase in hydration equal to 15.8%. These results were observed in 63% and 81% of subjects respectively.

[0186] [Tableauxll] On the Stratum corneum Variation T3H / T0 Variation T6H / T0 PLACEBO +0.4ns +4.7ns ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA1) 3% +18.2S -29.8S Comparison ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION / Placebo +17.8% +25.1%

[0187] the active ingredient according to the invention immediately improves surface hydration in volunteers. Indeed, 3 hours after a single application, the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion increases the hydration of the stratum corneum by 17.8%. This action continues and intensifies 6 hours after treatment with a significant improvement in surface hydration of 25.1%. This effect is observed in 88% of volunteers.

[0188] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion, improves the immediate hydration of the upper dermis up to the stratum corneum from 3 hours after a single application in Caucasian volunteers.

[0189] Test 9 - Long-term moisturizing effect of the active ingredient according to the invention

[0190] The objective of this study is to evaluate the long-term effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on the hydration of the deep and superficial layers of the epidermis of Caucasian and Asian volunteers, in comparison with a placebo formula.

[0191] This study was carried out on a Caucasian panel of 17 healthy Caucasian female volunteers, aged between 44 and 65 years and on an Asian panel of 63 healthy female volunteers, aged between 41 and 65 years, with dehydrated skin on the face, irregular microrelief at the crow's feet and a dull complexion.

[0192] Deep hydration was assessed by measuring the hydration rate using a MoistureMeter-D and surface hydration via measuring the hydration rate using a Corneometer® CM825.

[0193] Caucasian volunteers applied the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion and the placebo to half of the face twice daily for 21 and 42 days.

[0194] The Asian volunteers were divided into 2 groups having respectively applied to their entire face the formula containing the active ingredient according to the invention at 3% or the placebo formula twice daily for 21 and 42 days. The group receiving the active ingredient according to the invention consists of 32 volunteers and the group receiving the placebo of 31 volunteers.

[0195] The results showing the long-term effect on epidermal and upper dermal hydration and surface hydration of Caucasian volunteers are presented in Tables 12 and 13, respectively. The results showing the long-term effect on surface hydration of Asian volunteers are presented in Table 14.

[0196] [Tables 12] Hydration of the epidermis and upper dermis Caucasian panel Variation D21 / D0 Variation D42 / D0 PLACEBO +10.4S +2.4ns ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA1) 3% +21.0s +18.0s Comparison ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION / Placebo +10.6% +15.5%

[0197] After 21 days of treatment, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly increases the hydration of the epidermis and upper dermis by 10.6%. This effect continues and intensifies after 42 days of treatment with a significant improvement of 15.5%. This increase is observed in 88% of volunteers.

[0198] [Tablesl3] Hydration of the stratum corneum Caucasian panel Variation D21 / D0 Variation D42 / D0 PLACEBO +4.5ns +2.8ns ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA1) 3% +10.5S +12.8S Comparison ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION / Placebo +5.9% +10.0%

[0199] After 21 days of treatment, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly increases the hydration of the stratum corneum of Caucasian volunteers by 5.9%. This effect continues and intensifies after 42 days of treatment with a significant improvement of 10.0%. This increase is observed in 76% of the volunteers.

[0200] [Tablesl4] Hydration of the stratum corneum Asian panel Variation D21 / D0 Variation D42 / D0 PLACEBO -0.5s -1.9ns ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA1) 3% +12.4S +20.6S Comparison ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION / Placebo +12.9% +22.5%

[0201] After 21 days of treatment, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly increases the hydration of the stratum corneum of Asian volunteers by 12.9%. This effect continues and intensifies after 42 days of treatment with a significant improvement of 22.5%. This increase is observed in 97% of the volunteers.

[0202] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion, improves the hydration of the superficial layers of the epidermis up to the upper dermis after 6 weeks of twice-daily treatment in Caucasian and Asian volunteers.

[0203] Test 10 - Plumping effect of the active ingredient according to the invention

[0204] The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo the plumping effect of the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion, in comparison with a placebo formula on Caucasian volunteers. The panel is composed of two groups of healthy volunteers with dehydrated skin on the face, an irregular microrelief at the crow's feet and a dull complexion. A 1st group treated with the active ingredient according to the invention comprises 20 volunteers aged 36 to 67 years and a 2nd group treated with the placebo comprises 18 volunteers aged 35 to 67 years. The plumping effect was studied by measuring the volume of the face (EvaFACE3D-S5 system, Eotech) after 21 and 42 days of twice-daily application of the active ingredient according to the invention or the placebo to the entire face.

[0205] The results corresponding to the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion, on the positive volume parameter are presented in table 15.

[0206] [Tables 15] Variation D21 / D0 Variation D42 / D0 PLACEBO -0.8s -3.6ns ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA1) 3% +31.2S +43.7S Comparison ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION / Placebo +32.0% +47.3%

[0207] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention, in comparison with the placebo, significantly plumps the facial skin of Caucasian volunteers. Indeed, after 21 days of twice-daily application to the entire face, the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion significantly improves the positive volume parameter by 32.0%, characteristic of a plumping effect. This effect was observed in 82% of the volunteers. This effect continues and intensifies after 42 days of treatment where the increase in the positive volume parameter is equal to 47.3%. This increase is visible in 67% of the volunteers.

[0208] Test 11 - Smoothing effect of the active ingredient according to the invention

[0209] The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo the smoothing effect of the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion, in comparison with a placebo formula on Asian volunteers. The panel was composed of two groups of healthy volunteers with dehydrated skin on the face, irregular microrelief at the crow's feet and under the eyes as well as a dull complexion. A 1st group receiving the active ingredient according to the invention comprises 32 volunteers aged 43 to 64 years and a 2nd group receiving the placebo of 31 volunteers aged 41 to 65 years.

[0210] The smoothing effect was evaluated by clinical scoring by a dermatologist before and after application of the active ingredient according to the invention or the placebo to the entire face, twice daily for 42 days.

[0211] The results corresponding to the smoothing effect, evaluated by clinical scoring at the level below the eye, of the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion, are presented in table 16.

[0212] [Tables 16] Variation D21 / D0 Variation D42 / D0 PLACEBO -1.6S -4.0ns ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (PA1) 3% -5.6S -11.4S Comparison ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION / Placebo -4.0% -7.4%

[0213] The active ingredient according to the invention, in comparison with the placebo, has a significant smoothing effect on the eye contour area in Asian volunteers. Indeed, after 21 days of twice-daily application to the entire face, the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion significantly reduces the level of wrinkles under the eyes by 4.0%. These effects continue after 42 days of treatment with a reduction in fine lines under the eyes of 7.4%. This effect is observed in 66% of the volunteers.

[0214] Test 12 - Effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on the radiance of the complexion.

[0215] The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo the effect on the radiance of the complexion of the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion, in comparison with a placebo formula on Caucasian and Asian volunteers, after 21 and 42 days of twice-daily application of the active ingredient according to the invention or the placebo on the entire face.

[0216] The Caucasian and Asian panels consisted of two groups of healthy volunteers with dehydrated facial skin, irregular microrelief at the crow's feet and under the eyes, and a dull complexion.

[0217] In the Caucasian panel, a 1st group receiving the active ingredient according to the invention is composed of 20 volunteers aged 36 to 67 years and a 2nd group receiving the placebo of 18 volunteers aged 35 to 67 years.

[0218] In the Asian panel, a 1st group receiving the active ingredient according to the invention of 32 volunteers aged 43 to 64 years and a 2nd group receiving the placebo of 31 volunteers aged 41 to 65 years.

[0219] The radiance of the complexion was assessed by clinical scoring by two trained experts (Caucasian panel) or a dermatologist (Asian panel), before and after 21 and 42 days of twice-daily application of the active ingredient according to the invention or the placebo to the entire face.

[0220] The results corresponding to the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion on the radiance of the complexion for the Caucasian and Asian panel are respectively presented in Figures 4 and 5.

[0221] Fig. 4 shows that the active ingredient according to the invention significantly improves the characteristic parameters of the radiance of the complexion of Caucasian volunteers. Indeed, after 21 days of application, the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion makes the complexion brighter and fresher by significantly increasing the skin's radiance by 7.8% and the pink color by 21.2%. It significantly reduces the olive color by 13.2% as well as the state of eye fatigue by 11.1%. These actions continue after 42 days of treatment with an increase of 12.5% ​​in skin radiance and 23.1% in pink color. A decrease in olive color of 13.0% and the state of eye fatigue of 14.6% are also observed in Caucasian volunteers.

[0222] [Fig. 5] shows that the active ingredient according to the invention significantly improves the characteristic parameters of the radiance of the complexion of Asian volunteers. Indeed, after 21 days of application, the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion makes the complexion brighter and fresher by significantly increasing the skin's radiance by 3.9% and the pink color by 13.9%. It significantly reduces the olive color by 3.2%. These actions continue after 42 days of treatment with an increase of 14.7% in the skin's radiance and of 24% in the pink color. A decrease in the olive color of 10.5% is also observed in Asian volunteers.

[0223] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 3% in emulsion, improves the radiance of the complexion of Caucasian and Asian volunteers.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one extract of Spirodela polyrhiza comprising apiogalac-turonanes, for a plumping effect.

2. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the active ingredient also has a moisturizing effect and / or improves the radiance of the complexion.

3. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the active ingredient increases the cutaneous cell volume, and / or the expression of aquaporin 3 and / or the synthesis of the BGT-1 transporter.

4. Cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one extract of Spirodela polyrhiza, characterized in that the extract is a hydrolyzate and comprises apiogalacturonans.

5. Active ingredient according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the extract has a hygroscopic potential greater than or equal to 15 water molecules in interaction per monomer.

6. Active ingredient according to one of claims 4 or 5, characterized in that the apiogalacturonans represent at least 40% by weight of the dry matter of the extract.

7. Active ingredient according to one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that the extract comprises carbohydrates representing at least 70% by weight of the dry matter of the extract.

8. Active ingredient according to one of claims 4 to 7, characterized in that the extract has a galacturonic acid / apiose ratio of between 1 and 5.

9. Active ingredient according to one of claims 4 to 8, characterized in that the extract is capable of being obtained by a process comprising the following steps: a. Solubilization of at least 50 g / L of Spirodelapolyrhiza in water, b. Chemical hydrolysis of an acidic nature, or chemical hydrolysis of an acidic nature and enzymatic hydrolysis, c. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases and recovery of the soluble phase, d. Purification and concentration of the soluble phase, e. Filtration and sterilizing filtration.

10. Cosmetic composition for topical application comprising at least one active ingredient according to one of claims 4 to 9 and a physiologically acceptable medium.

11. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, in which the active ingredient represents at least 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

12. Cosmetic use according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the active ingredient is according to one of claims 4 to 9 or the cosmetic composition is according to one of claims 10 or 11.

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