Hair styling compositions and processes
Cosmetic compositions with gluconolactone, amino acids, and polysaccharides address the challenge of extending and defining curls in curly hair, providing hydration and frizz control without rinsing, thus enhancing hair appearance and properties.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022003679
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-04-21
- Publication Date
- 2025-04-18
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-04-21
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair styling products for curly hair fail to effectively extend curls, provide durable definition, and maintain hydration while avoiding chemical treatments or high heat, often leaving a greasy residue and requiring frequent washing.
Cosmetic compositions containing gluconolactone, amino acids or their salts, polysaccharides, and solvents, with a pH below 7, which can be applied without rinsing to enhance curl length, definition, and provide hydration, softness, and frizz control.
The compositions offer a visible and durable extension of curls, improved definition, and enhanced hair properties such as hydration, softness, and frizz control, even in humid conditions, without the need for rinsing or chemical treatments.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Compositions and methods for styling hair technical field
[0001] This disclosure relates to compositions comprising gluconolactone and at least one compound selected from amino acids, aminosulfonic acids, their salts or mixtures, and at least one polysaccharide, and methods of using the compositions for styling hair. CONTEXT
[0002] Curly hair generally appears shorter than its actual length. In the multicultural beauty market, there is a desire for products that can lengthen curls and give hair more visual length. Furthermore, reducing the curl pattern of very curly hair can increase its manageability and ease of styling.
[0003] Consumers with curly hair are particularly concerned that their curly hair appears shorter than its actual length and / or that the curls are not sufficiently defined. In the multicultural beauty market, there is a desire for products that lengthen and / or define curls to enhance the natural curl pattern. Existing products on the market that help prevent curl shrinkage often use thick formulations with various butters or oils that can leave a greasy or oily feeling on the hair. Hold products, such as styling gels, can also have lengthening effects, but these products typically flake off the hair.Therefore, the use of these lengthening products generally requires frequent hair washing, which is particularly undesirable for consumers with strong curls who prefer a limited number of washes per week and who want to maintain hairstyles that last all day or for several days. Furthermore, traditional hair lengthening methods, including straightening or smoothing, often involve chemical treatments or high heat that can damage the hair fibers and / or irritate the scalp.
[0004] Consumers also desire new and improved styling compositions that can deliver visible and lasting curl lengthening and / or that offer visible and lasting curl definition and hold, particularly in humid conditions, and at the same time impart various additional beneficial properties to the hair such as hydration, softness, smoothness, good bounce, good shine, and / or frizz control.
[0005] It has now been discovered in an astonishing way that cosmetic compositions comprising gluconolactone and at least one compound selected from amino acids, aminosulfonic acids, their salts or mixtures, and at least one polysaccharide are capable of improving the elongation of hair curls and / or providing curl definition and hold, particularly in humid conditions, as well as providing other benefits such as moisturizing, softness, frizz control, and / or manageability to the hair. SUMMARY
[0006] This disclosure relates to hair styling compositions, for example, by enhancing the elongation of hair curls and / or by providing curl definition and / or hold. The compositions are optionally leave-in hair styling compositions and may, for example, be in the form of a serum, gel, gel-cream, cream, lotion, or similar formulations. The disclosure also relates to processes for enhancing the elongation of curly hair with the compositions.
[0007] The compositions comprise (a) gluconolactone, (b) at least one compound selected from amino acids, aminosulfonic acids, their salts or mixtures, (c) at least one polysaccharide, and (d) at least one solvent. In various embodiments, the pH of the composition is less than about 7. The compositions may optionally further comprise additional components such as, for example, film-forming polymers, anionic surfactants, or pH adjusters, or mixtures thereof.
[0008] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) from about 0.05% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3%, most preferably from about 1% to about 2% of gluconolactone, (b) from about 0.05% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 8%, most preferably from about 0.5% to about 6%, most preferably from about 0.75% to about 4%, most preferably from about 1% to about 3% of at least one compound selected from amino acids, aminosulfonic acids, their salts, or mixtures thereof, (c) from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 4%, most preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 1.0% of at least one polysaccharide,and (d) at least one solvent, in which all quantities are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0009] In some embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amounts of (b) amino acids / aminosulfonic acids / salts: (a) gluconolactone in the compositions is between about 5:1 and about 1:1, preferably between about 4:1 and about 1:1, more preferably between about 3:1 and about 1:1, even more preferably between about 2.5:1 and about 1:1, preferably between about 2:1 and about 1:1, such as about 2.5:1, about 2:1, about 1.5:1, or about 1:1.
[0010] In various embodiments, the pH of the composition is less than about 7, for example, it is between about 3 and about 6, preferably between about 3.5 and about 5, more preferably between about 4 and about 4.5, preferably of all between about 4 and about 4.3. Optionally, the compositions include at least one buffer or pH corrector.
[0011] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amino acid or aminosulfonic acid selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine, aminomethanesulfonic acid, aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, acid diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, their salts, or mixtures thereof, preferably selected from glycine,taurine, phenylalanine, their salts, or mixtures thereof, preferably including glycine.
[0012] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one polysaccharide. For example, the compositions may comprise at least one anionic polysaccharide, at least one cationic polysaccharide, at least one nonionic polysaccharide, or mixtures thereof, preferably at least one anionic polysaccharide, at least one cationic polysaccharide, or mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one polysaccharide comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of anionic polysaccharides.For example, at least one polysaccharide may be chosen from inulins, celluloses, starches, and gums such as guar gum, xanthan gum, pullulan gum, alginate gum, agar-agar gum, carrageenan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, xylose, tragacanth gum, their derivatives or mixtures, preferably chosen from hydroxypropyl guar, carrageenan, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, or mixtures thereof. In a mode. In one embodiment, the polysaccharide comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of xanthan gum, carrageenan, hydroxypropyl guar, or mixtures thereof. In another embodiment, the polysaccharide comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of xanthan gum.
[0013] The compositions may optionally include at least one film-forming polymer, for example at least one non-ionic film-forming polymer. The film-forming polymer may, for example, be selected from polyalkyloxazolines, vinyl acetate homopolymers, vinyl acetate copolymers, acrylic ester homopolymers and copolymers, acrylonitrile copolymers and a non-ionic monomer, styrene homopolymers, styrene copolymers, styrene and butadiene copolymers, or styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine copolymers, polyamides, vinyllactam homopolymers, vinyllactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole terpolymers, or mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the composition comprises non-ionic film-forming polymers, preferably a vinylpyrrolidone / metha-crylamide / vinylimidazole copolymer.In some embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of film-forming polymers, preferably non-ionic film-forming polymers, more preferably vinylpyr-rolidone / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole copolymer, in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0014] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one additional component, for example at least one anionic surfactant, at least one pH adjuster, or mixtures thereof.
[0015] In other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) from about 0.05% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3%, preferably from about 1% to about 2% of gluconolactone, (b) from about 0.05% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 6%, even more preferably from about 0.75% to about 4%, preferably from about 1% to about 3% of at least one amino acid, an aminosulfonic acid, their salts or mixtures thereof, preferably selected from glycine, taurine, phenylalanine, their salts or mixtures thereof, more preferably glycine, one of its salts, or one of its mixtures, (c) at least one solvent, and (d) at least one additional component selected from anionic surfactants, thickening agents, pH adjusters,or mixtures thereof, in which the pH of the composition is less than about 7, in , in which the weight ratio of the amino acid(s) / aminosulfonic acid(s): glu-conolactone is between approximately 5:1 and approximately 1:1, and in which all quantities are by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0016] In other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) from about 0.05% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3%, most preferably from about 1% to about 2% of gluconolactone, (b) from about 0.05% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 6%, even more preferably from about 0.75% to about 4%, most preferably from about 1% to about 3% of glycine, a salt thereof, or a mixture thereof, (c) from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 4%, most preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% of glycine, a salt thereof, or a mixture thereof, %, preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 1.0% of at least one polysaccharide, preferably selected from xanthan gum,(d) hydroxypropyl guar, carrageenan or mixtures thereof, more preferably xanthan gum, and (d) at least one solvent, wherein the glycine:gluconolactone weight ratio is between about 5:1 and about 1:1, and all quantities are by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0017] The disclosure also relates to methods of using the compositions, for example, methods for styling hair such as methods for lengthening curls, methods for visually lengthening hair, methods for reducing hair shrinkage, methods for maintaining curl length, and / or methods for reducing frizz, even under conditions of high relative humidity. The methods include applying the composition to wet, damp, or dry hair. Optionally, the methods do not include a heating step. The methods generally provide one or more styling benefits to the hair, such as lengthening curls, defining curls, controlling frizz, smoothness, and / or softness. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0018] The attached drawings, which are incorporated into this document and form part of this specification, illustrate exemplary embodiments of the disclosure and, together with the general description given above and the description provided in this document, serve to explain the particulars of the disclosure.
[0019] [Fig. 1A] Fig. 1A is a graph comparing the elongation (length retention) of hair strands treated with compositions according to disclosure and comparative compositions after exposure to high humidity.
[0020] [Fig.1B] Fig.1B shows images of hair strands treated with compositions according to disclosure and comparative compositions at different times.
[0021] [Fig.2] Fig.2 is a graph comparing the elongation (conservation of length) of hair strands treated with compositions according to the disclosure and a comparative composition at different times.
[0022] [Fig.3A] The [Fig.3A] is a graph comparing the elongation (length retention) of hair strands treated with compositions according to disclosure and comparative compositions after exposure to high humidity.
[0023] [Fig.3B] Fig.3B shows images of hair strands treated with compositions according to disclosure and comparative compositions at different times.
[0024] [Fig.4A] The [Fig.4A] is a graph comparing the elongation (length retention) of hair strands treated with a composition as disclosed and comparative compositions after exposure to high humidity.
[0025] [Fig.4B] Fig.4B shows images of hair strands treated with compositions according to disclosure and a comparative composition at different times.
[0026] It must be understood that the preceding and following descriptions are merely illustrative and explanatory, and are not intended to be restrictive for any claimed subject. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0027] The disclosure relates to compositions for styling hair, in particular curly hair, as well as methods for using the compositions. I. Compositions
[0028] In various embodiments, the compositions as disclosed comprise (a) gluconolactone; (b) at least one compound selected from amino acids, aminosulfonic acids, their salts, or mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one polysaccharide; and (d) at least one solvent. The compositions as disclosed may enhance the elongation of hair curls and / or the persistence of hair curl elongation, may enhance curl definition and / or curl hold, and / or may provide additional benefits such as softness, smoothness, and / or frizz control to the hair. Gluconolactone
[0029] It has been discovered, surprisingly, that gluconolactone has amazing hair-styling benefits for curly hair. Thus, the compositions according to the disclosure include gluconolactone. Gluconolactone can be present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.05% to approximately 10% by weight, such as approximately 0.05% to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.05% to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.05% to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.05% to approximately 2.5%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 1.5%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%, approximately 0.1% to approximately 8%, approximately 0.1% to approximately 6%, approximately 0.1% to approximately 4%, approximately 0.1% to approximately 2.5%, approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%, approximately 0.1% to approximately 1.5%, approximately 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 2.5%, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise gluconolactone in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 6%, preferably from about 0.25% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 4%, even more preferably from about 0.75% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 1% to about 2%, such as about 0.5%, about 0.75%, about 1%, about 1.25%, about 1.5%, about 1.75%, or about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amino acids / Aminosulfonic acids / Salts
[0030] It has also been surprisingly discovered that amino acids, aminosulfonic acids, and their salts act synergistically with gluconolactone to provide lengthening benefits to curly hair. Thus, the compositions according to the disclosure further comprise at least one compound selected from amino acids, aminosulfonic acids, their salts, or mixtures thereof. Amino acids are simple organic compounds containing both a carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and an amino group (-NH2). Aminosulfonic acids are simple organic compounds containing both a sulfonic acid group (-SO2OH) and an amino group (-NH2). Therefore, amino acids and / or aminosulfonic acids may, in certain embodiments, be selected from compounds of formula (I), compounds of formula (II), their salts, or mixtures thereof: (I) (II)
[0031] in which:
[0032] R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C5 alkyl group, preferably linear, a Ci-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by at least one group selected from hydroxyl, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O M+, and
[0033] S(0)2-0 M+, where M+ represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, a an alkaline earth metal or an ammonium, and
[0034] n equals 0 yes.
[0035] The useful amino acids that may be selected include, but are not limited to, the twenty amino acids that form the proteins of living organisms (standard proteinogenic amino acids): alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, praline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine. In some embodiments, charged amino acids may be selected. Non-limiting examples of charged amino acids include arginine, lysine, aspartic acid, and glutamic acid. In some embodiments, polar amino acids may be selected. Non-limiting examples of polar amino acids include glutamine, asparagine, histidine, serine, threonine, tyrosine, cysteine, methionine, and tryptophan. In some embodiments, hydrophobic amino acids may be chosen.Non-limiting examples of hydrophobic amino acids include alanine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, valine, proline, and glycine.
[0036] Useful aminosulfonic acids that may be selected include, but are not limited to, aminomethanesulfonic acid, aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sul-fanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid and aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid.
[0037] Mixtures of two or more amino acids or their salts, such as three amino acids One or more amino acids or their salts may also be chosen. Mixtures of two or more aminosulfonic acids or their salts, such as three or more aminosulfonic acids or their salts, may also be chosen. Mixtures of one or more amino acids or their salts and one or more aminosulfonic acids or their salts may also be chosen.
[0038] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one compound selected from glycine, alanine, serine, taurine, threonine, phenylalanine, their salts, or mixtures thereof, preferably selected from glycine, taurine, threonine, phenylalanine, their salts, or mixtures thereof. In other embodiments, the compositions comprise glycine or a salt thereof, either as the sole amino acid or in combination with one or more additional compounds selected from amino acids and aminosulfonic acids. In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise taurine or a salt thereof, either as the sole aminosulfonic acid or in combination with one or more additional compounds selected from amino acids and aminosulfonic acids.In other embodiments, the compositions include glycine, phenylalanine, taurine, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof, optionally as the only compounds selected from among amino acids and aminosulfonic acids.
[0039] The total amount of compounds selected from amino acids, aminosulfonic acids or their salts in the composition can range from about 0.05% to about 10% by weight, for example from about 0.05% to about 8% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 6% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 4% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 2.5%, from about 0.05% to about 2%, from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, from about 0.05% to about 1%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 2.5%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 2.5%, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and subranges. In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of compounds selected from amino acids, aminosulfonic acids, or their salts, in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 7%, preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%, more preferably from about . 0.5% to about 5%, more preferably about 0.75% to about 4%, preferably of about 1% to about 3%, such as about 1%, about 1.25%, about 1.5%, about 1.75%, about 2%, about 2.25%, about 2.5%, about 2.75% or about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0040] In exemplary embodiments, the compositions comprise from about 0.1% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 4%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 3% by weight of glycine, alanine, serine, taurine, threonine, phenylalanine, their salts or mixtures, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other exemplary embodiments, the compositions comprise from about 0.1% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 4%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 3% by weight of glycine, taurine, their salts or mixtures, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0041] In certain embodiments, the amounts of gluconolactone and selected compounds from amino acids, aminosulfonic acids or their salts are chosen such that the total amounts of (b) amino acids / aminosulfonic acids / salts and (a) gluconolactone provide optimal hair styling benefits. For example, the weight ratio (b) amino acids / aminosulfonic acids / salts: (a) gluconolactone can range from about 5:1 to about 1:1, e.g. from about 4.5:1 to about 1:1, from about 4:1 to about 1:1, from about 3.5:1 to about 1:1, from about 3:1 to about 1:1, from about 2.5:1 to about 1:1, from about 2:1 to about 1:1, or from about 1.5:1 to about 1:1, preferably from about 3:1 to about 1:1, from about 2.5:1 to about 1:1, from about 2:1 to about 1:1, or from about 1.5:1 to about 1:1.In some embodiments, the amounts of gluconolactone and selected compounds of amino acids and aminosulfonic acids are chosen such that the weight ratio of the total amounts of (b) amino acids / aminosulfonic acids / salts: (a) gluconolactone is about 1:1, about 1.5:1, about 2:1, about 2.5:1, about 3:1, about 3.5:1, about 4:1, about 4.5:1 or about 5:1. Polysaccharides
[0042] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one polysaccharide. The polysaccharides may be selected from anionic, cationic, or nonionic polysaccharides, or mixtures thereof, preferably anionic polysaccharides, cationic polysaccharides, or mixtures thereof, more preferably anionic polysaccharides. Without wishing to make a theory of it, it is thought that including one or more polysaccharides further enhances the styling benefits. surprising and unexpected compositions according to the disclosure.
[0043] Polysaccharides that may be used include, by way of example only, inulins, celluloses, starches, and gums such as guar gum, xanthan gum, pullulan gum, alginate gum, agar-agar gum, carrageenan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, xylose, tragacanth gum, or derivatives thereof. Mixtures of two or more of these products may also be used.
[0044] Non-limiting examples of gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum and biosaccharide gum. Modified gums or gum derivatives may also be used, such as deacylated gellan gum, welan gum or hydroxypropyl guar gum, such as Jaguar HP 105 sold by Rhodia.
[0045] Non-limiting examples of celluloses include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose (also called methylhydroxyethylcellulose), or hydropropylcelluloses, which may or may not contain a fatty chain. A particularly suitable hydroxypropylmethylcellulose is Methocel F4M sold by Dow Chemicals (INCI name: hydroxypropylmethylcellulose).Modified celluloses with groups comprising one or more nonionic fatty chains that may be used include hydroxyethylcelluloses, preferably nonionic hydroxyethylcelluloses, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22 alkyl groups, such as the product NATROSOLTM Plus Grade 330 CS (Cl6 alkyls), sold by Aqualon, corresponding to the INCI name cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, or the product BERMOCOLL® EHM 100 sold by Berol Nobel, and those modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER® HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by Amerchol, which corresponds to the INCI name nonoxynyl hydroxyethylcellulose. Other specific agents suitable for use in the compositions described in the . This document concerns hydroxypropyl guar gums.
[0046] Non-limiting examples of starches include modified starches, starch-based polymers, methylhydroxypropyl starch, potato starch, modified potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, starch crosslinked with octenyl succinic anhydride, starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch.
[0047] In some embodiments, the polysaccharides are selected from carrageenan, xanthan gum, cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, starch, starch acetate, hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, guar gum, carboxymethyl guar gum, carboxymethylhydroxypropyl guar gum, hydroxyethyl guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, xylose gum, cellobiose, dextrin, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin, heparin, inulin, levan, or mixtures thereof.In other embodiments, the polysaccharides are selected from sclerotium gum, carrageenan, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl guar or mixtures thereof, preferably carrageenan, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl guar or mixtures thereof, more preferably xanthan gum.
[0048] In various exemplary embodiments, the total amount of polysaccharides ranges from about 0.01% to about 5%, including all intermediate sub-ranges, such as from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.05% to about 4%, from about 0.05% to about 3%, from about 0.05% to about 2%, from about 0.05% to about 1%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, including all intermediate sub-ranges, such as from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.05% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 4 ... % to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, or from about 0.5% to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. Solvent
[0049] The compositions according to the disclosure include a cosmetically acceptable solvent. The solvent may include water, non-aqueous solvents, or mixtures thereof.
[0050] In some embodiments, the solvent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of water. The total amount of water in the compositions may vary depending on the type of composition and the desired consistency, viscosity, etc.
[0051] In some embodiments, the composition comprises one or more non-aqueous solvents, other than or in addition to the ingredients mentioned above. For example, C1.4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols other than those described above, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, laminar lipid materials, or any mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of solvents that may be used include alkane polyols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-l,4-diol, 2-ethyl-l,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-l,2-pentanediol;alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol);glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether dipropylene glycol, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitol, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane, or mixtures thereof. At least in some embodiments, the compositions contain water and at least one, for example two or more, additional solvent(s) selected from caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, glycerin, or mixtures thereof.
[0052] The solvent may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from approximately 50% to approximately 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. For example, in one embodiment, the total amount of solvent may be from approximately 50% to approximately 95%, from approximately 60% to approximately 95%, from approximately 70% to approximately 95%, from approximately 70% to approximately 90%, from approximately 70% to approximately 90%, from approximately 75% to 95%, or from approximately 75% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the solvent is mainly composed of water, for example, from approximately 90% to approximately 99%, or from approximately 95% to approximately 99% of the total solvent. Additional components
[0053] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more additional components suitable for use in those compositions. Non-limiting examples of such additional components are given below. Film-forming polymers
[0054] The compositions according to the disclosure optionally include one or more film-forming polymers. In some non-limiting embodiments, the film-forming polymers are non-ionic film-forming polymers.
[0055] Useful and non-limiting examples of non-ionic film-forming polymers that may be selected include polyalkyloxazolines; vinyl acetate homopolymers, vinyl acetate copolymers, such as, for example, vinyl acetate and acrylic ester copolymers, vinyl acetate and ethylene copolymers, or vinyl acetate and maleic ester copolymers, for example dibutyl maleate; acrylic ester homopolymers and copolymers, such as, for example, alkyl acrylate and alkyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the products supplied by Rohm GmbH under the name Eudragit® NE 30 D (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer); copolymers of acrylonitrile and a nonionic monomer selected, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates; homopolymers of styrene; copolymers of styrene, such as, for example, copolymers of styrene, alkyl acrylate and alkyl methacrylate;styrene and butadiene copolymers; or styrene, butadiene and vinyl-pyridine copolymers; polyamides; vinyllactam homopolymers, such as vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers sold, for example, under the names Luviskol® K30 powder by BASF or PVP K30L or K60 solution or K90 by ISP, or such as polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol® Plus by BASF (INCI name PVP); vinyllactam copolymers, such as a poly(vinylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by BASF, poly(vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate) copolymers, such as those sold under the names PVP / VA® S630L, E735, E635 and W735 by ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64 and VA 37 by BASF (INCI name VP / VA copolymer);and vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole terpolymers, for example the product sold under the name Luviset® Clear by BASF (INCI name VP / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole copolymer). In various embodiments, the alkyl groups of these polymers optionally contain from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0056] In some embodiments, the film-forming polymer is nonionic. In exemplary embodiments, the nonionic film-forming polymer may be selected from vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole terpolymers. In some embodiments, the compositions comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of nonionic film-forming polymers as the sole film-forming polymer(s). In some embodiments, the compositions comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of a vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole copolymer as the film-forming polymer.
[0057] If present, the total amount of film-forming polymer may be between about 0.05% and about 10% by weight, for example between about 0.05% and about 8%, about 0.05% and about 6%, about 0.05% and about 5%, about 0.05% and about 4%, about 0.05% and about 3%, about 0.05% and about 2%, about 0.05% and about 1%, about 0.1% and about 10%, about 0.1% and about 8%, about 0.1% and about 6%, about 0.1% and about 5%, about 0.1% and about 4%, about 0.1% and about 3%, about 0.1% and about 2%, or about 0.1% and about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0058] In exemplary embodiments, the compositions comprise from about 0.05% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 0.5% by weight of non-ionic film-forming polymers, for example a vinylpyrrolidone / metha-crylamide / vinylimidazole copolymer, relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic surfactants
[0059] The compositions according to the disclosure optionally include at least one anionic surfactant. In various embodiments, suitable anionic surfactants may be selected from sulfate / sulfonate, non-sulfate, or carboxylate type anionic surfactants. For example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl monoglyceride sulfates, alkylaryl sulfates, alkyl ether carboxylates, fatty acyl sarcosinates, fatty acyl glutamates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkoxylated monoacids, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl monoglyceride sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, alkyl sulfolaurates, their salts, or mixtures thereof,the alkyl groups of these compounds optionally including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, the aryl group of these compounds being optionally chosen from phenyl or benzyl groups, and these compounds being optionally polyoxyalkylated, for example polyoxyethylated, including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, such as , from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs. In some preferred embodiments, the anionic surfactant comprises one or more alkylsulfonates.
[0060] When anionic surfactants are in salt form, they can be chosen from, for example, alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts such as amino alcohol salts, or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.
[0061] In various embodiments, the anionic surfactants can be selected from, for example, C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, for example C12-C20 alkyl sulfates; C6-C24 alkyl ethers sulfates, for example C12-C20 alkyl ethers sulfates, preferably comprising 2 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs; C6-C24 alkyl sulfosuccinates, for example C12-C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates, for example, lauryl sulfosuccinates; C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, for example, C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; C6-C24 acylisethionates, for example, C12-C18 acylisethionates; C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, for example, C12-C20 acylsarcosinates, for example, palmitoylsarcosinates; C6-C24 alkyl ether carboxylates, for example, C12-C20 alkyl ether carboxylates; polyoxyalkylened (C6-C24) alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, for example.those containing 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, and in particular ethylene oxide; C6-C24 acylglutamates, for example C12-C20 acylglutamates; C6-C24 acylglycinates, for example C12-C20 acylglycinates; or mixtures thereof.
[0062] In at least some embodiments, the compositions may comprise at least one anionic surfactant selected from linear α-olefin sulfonates or their salts. For example, the compositions may comprise at least one anionic surfactant selected from compounds of formula (III) or their salts:
[0063] R-CH2-CH=CH-(CH2)n-SO3-M
[0064] (III)
[0065] in which:
[0066] - R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, such as than 6 to 20 carbon atoms or 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms;
[0067] - n is an integer from 0 to 10, such that from 1 to 4, and preferably n=l; and
[0068] - M is a cosmetically acceptable cation, for example cations derived from alkali or alkaline earth metal or cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines, and preferably is chosen from ammonium, sodium or potassium.
[0069] In certain embodiments, at least one anionic surfactant is chosen from linear α-olefin sulfonates according to formula (IV) or their salts:
[0070] (IV)
[0071] in which R is an alkyl group, M is a sodium cation, and n is 1 or 2. For example, at least one anionic surfactant may be a sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate.
[0072] In various embodiments, if present, the total quantity of at least one anionic surfactant can be up to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. For example, the total amount of at least one anionic surfactant can range from about 0.01% to about 10%, from about 0.01% to about 8%, from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.05% to about 10%, from about 0.05% to about 8%, from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.05% to about 3%, from about 0.05% to about 2%, from about 0.05% to about 1%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, or from about 0.1% to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0073] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one anionic surfactant, which may be selected from sulfate or sulfonate anionic surfactants, preferably alkylsulfonate surfactants, and more preferably linear α-olefin sulfonates. In various embodiments, the sulfate or sulfonate anionic surfactants, preferably sulfonate anionic surfactants, and more preferably linear α-olefin sulfonates, may be present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2.5% by weight, and preferably from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Auxiliary components
[0074] Useful auxiliary components that may be selected include, but are not limited to, conditioning agents, dyes / pigments, moisturizing agents, fillers, structuring agents, gloss enhancers, antioxidants, penetration enhancers, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers (e.g., monoethanolamine and / or triethanolamine), dispersants, plant extracts, vegetable oils, preservatives, opacifiers, sunscreens, pH adjusters (e.g., citric acid), vitamins (e.g., vitamin E), film-forming polymers other than nonionic film-forming polymers, surfactants other than anionic surfactants, and agents antistatic.
[0075] Additional optional auxiliary components may be present in an amount of up to about 15% by weight, for example from about 0.01% to about 15% or from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0076] In various embodiments, the compositions may have a pH less than or equal to approximately 7. For example, the pH of the compositions may range from approximately 3 to approximately 6, such as from approximately 3.5 to approximately 5, from approximately 4 to approximately 4.5, or from approximately 4 to approximately 4.3, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. In various embodiments, the compositions include a buffering agent or a pH adjuster to achieve the desired pH value.
[0077] The compositions according to the disclosure are typically in the form of a liquid, cream, gel, gel-cream, serum, or lotion, but are not limited to these forms. In a preferred embodiment, the composition is a serum. II. Processes
[0078] This disclosure also relates to processes for treating hair, such as styling or shaping hair, for example, to enhance the lengthening and / or definition of curls in curly hair by using the compositions described herein. The processes generally involve applying any one of the compositions as disclosed to the hair.
[0079] The compositions disclosed herein are typically used to provide a visible lengthening benefit to wavy or curly hair, to enhance the lengthening of waves or curls, to provide lasting lengthening of waves or curls (even under high humidity and / or over a period of time), to improve curl definition, to provide lasting curl definition for wavy or curly hair, and / or to reduce frizz. The compositions can be useful in various contexts, whether for chemically treated or untreated hair, and / or for natural or artificial waves or curls (e.g., permed hair). The compositions described herein are particularly suitable for multicultural hair types with varying degrees of curl and hair type.The degree of curl or curl type of hair can vary and is not limited. For example, the curls of hair treated with the compositions described in this document can range from slightly wavy to very kinky and curly, and may have different textures and colors.
[0080] In certain embodiments, the compositions described in this document are useful for increasing the perceived length of hair, reducing shrinkage of curly hair and / or reducing hair frizz, particularly in humid and high humidity conditions (e.g. 80% relative humidity, 25°C), by providing lasting curl elongation and / or curl definition, e.g., by ensuring lasting curl elongation and / or curl definition for 1 hour or more, for 4 hours or more, for 8 hours or more, for 12 hours or more, for 16 hours or more, for 24 hours or more, or for 72 hours or more, after application of a composition according to the disclosure.
[0081] In other embodiments, the compositions are useful for improving curl definition and / or curl hold, and / or reducing hair frizz, particularly in humid and high humidity conditions (e.g., 80% relative humidity, 25°C), by providing lasting curl elongation and / or curl definition, e.g., by ensuring lasting curl elongation and / or lasting curl definition for 1 hour or more, for 4 hours or more, for 8 hours or more, for 12 hours or more, for 16 hours or more, for 24 hours or more, or for 72 hours or more, after application of a composition according to the disclosure.
[0082] In addition, the compositions can also be used to provide hair with a variety of desirable sensory benefits, for example, hydration, softness, smoothness, bounce, and / or shine. As such, the compositions are useful for styling (which includes shaping) hair while simultaneously caring for, conditioning, and / or imparting one or more of the sensory benefits described above.
[0083] Typically, the processes according to the disclosure may include applying an effective amount of a composition disclosed herein to curly hair, whether the hair is dry, wet, damp, or moist. In this document, the term "effective amount" refers to a quantity sufficient to provide a desired lengthening effect to the hair, taking into account the degree of curl, length, volume, and texture of the hair. Generally, about 0.5 grams to about 50 grams of product are applied to the hair, depending on the specific formulation of the product, the length of the hair, its volume, and the type of hairstyle. The composition applied to the hair may be distributed evenly by combing it with the fingers or a means such as a comb or other tool. The composition may then be dried, for example, by air drying.The composition can be left on the hair as a leave-in product for any period of time necessary, for example, from about a few seconds (e.g., 1, 3, 5 or 10 seconds) to about . 10, 20 or 30 minutes, or longer, for example a few hours or a few days, or until the next time you wash or rinse your hair.
[0084] In some embodiments, before applying the composition to the hair, the hair may first be washed with a commercially available shampoo or rinsed with water. The composition is then applied to the washed or rinsed hair when the hair is wet, damp, or moist. In other embodiments, before applying the composition to dry hair, the hair may optionally be moistened, dampened, or wetted by spraying with water or using a damp towel, or by applying other treatment compositions that make the hair moist, damp, or wet.
[0085] Alternatively, in certain embodiments, the compositions as disclosed may first be applied to dry hair, and then water or cosmetically acceptable compositions are applied to the hair to moisten, dampen, or wet it while the compositions as disclosed remain on the hair. Hair that has had the compositions disclosed herein applied may be air-dried without further hair treatment, including rinsing or washing.
[0086] In some embodiments, the processes may optionally include braiding and / or twisting the hair to create curls, before or after applying the compositions disclosed herein. In some embodiments, the processes according to the disclosure do not require shaping or styling the hair before, during, and / or after applying the compositions. Hair tension is generally not required. Also, in some embodiments, before, during, or after applying the compositions, the hair is not stretched by mechanical means.
[0087] In certain embodiments, after application of the compositions described in this document, the hair can be shaped or styled as required, for example, twisted or the like. In some embodiments, the hair treated with the compositions can be twisted within 30 minutes, or within 20 minutes, while the hair is wet or damp.
[0088] The processes according to the disclosure generally do not require the use of a reducing agent, including a base, or the heating of the hair to stretch or lengthen the hair curls. Also, in at least some embodiments, the process does not include the use of a reducing agent or a base, and / or does not require or include a step of heating the hair after applying the composition to it in order to obtain the desired results.
[0089] In certain embodiments, a composition described in this document is used alone to treat hair, without the use of other compounds Hair treatment positions. In other embodiments, the compositions may be applied to the hair before, during, or after the application of another hair treatment or styling composition, such as (for example, a conditioner, mask, cream, lotion, gel, coloring composition, etc.). Also, a composition disclosed herein may be applied to the hair and layered over another composition that is also applied to the hair.
[0090] In various embodiments, the hair treatment processes using the compositions disclosed impart various lasting benefits to the hair, as described above, without a greasy feel or flaking, compared to hair not treated with a composition disclosed. The term "lasting," as used herein, means that the lengthening effect and other benefits imparted to the hair can remain for a desired period, such as a few hours, a few days, or until the hair is rinsed or washed.
[0091] After describing in detail the numerous embodiments of the present invention, it will become apparent that modifications and variations are possible without departing from the scope of the disclosure defined in the appended claims. Furthermore, it should be noted that all the examples in this disclosure, while illustrating numerous embodiments of the disclosure, are provided by way of non-limiting examples and should therefore not be considered as limiting the various aspects thus illustrated. It is understood that all definitions in this document are provided solely for the purposes of this disclosure.
[0092] In this document, the terms "comprising," "having," and "including" (or "comprise," "have," and "include") are used in their broad and non-limiting sense. The expression "consisting essentially of" restricts the scope of a claim to the specified materials or steps and to those that do not materially affect the fundamental and innovative characteristics of the compositions.
[0093] In this application, the use of the singular includes the plural unless otherwise indicated. The singular forms "a," "an," "the," "the," "the," and "at least one" are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise, and these expressions, as well as the expression "one or more," which means "at least one," are expressly intended to include individual components as well as mixtures / combinations thereof. Similarly, the expression "a salt of this" also refers to "salts of this." Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an item selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of this, or mixtures of these," it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.
[0094] In this document, the expressions "and mixtures thereof," "and a mixture of these," "and combinations thereof," "and a combination thereof," "or mixtures of these," "or a mixture of these," "or combinations thereof," and "or a combination thereof" are used interchangeably to indicate that the list of components immediately preceding the expression, such as "A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof," means that the component(s) may be chosen from A, B, C, D, A+B, A+B+C, A+D, A+C+D, etc., without limitation of their variations. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof.
[0095] For the purposes of this disclosure, it should be noted that, for the sake of brevity, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified by the term "approximately." It is understood that, whether or not the term "approximately" is used explicitly, each quantity given herein is intended to refer to the actual value given, and is also intended to refer to the approximation of that value that would be reasonably deduced based on ordinary skill in the trade, including approximations due to the experimental and / or measurement conditions of that value. All ranges and quantities indicated herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a bound.Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%" is assumed to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%", "1% to 5%", "2% to 10%", and so on. All numbers, quantities, ranges, etc., are assumed to be modified by the term "approximately", whether or not it is explicitly stated. Similarly, a given range of "approximately 1% to 10%" is assumed to have its 1% and 10% bounds modified by the term "approximately". The term "approximately" is used in this document to indicate a difference of up to + / - 10% from the stated number, such as + / - 9%, + / - 8%, + / - 7%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, or + / - 1%. Similarly, all range bounds are understood to be disclosed individually, so that, for example, a range of 1:2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose a ratio of both 1:2 and 2:1.
[0096] In this document, if a component is described as being present "in an amount up to" a certain amount, it is understood that this component is, in fact, present in the composition, that is to say, it is present in an amount greater than 0%.
[0097] “Active ingredient”, as used in this document with regard to the The percentage of an ingredient or raw material refers to an activity of 100% of the ingredient or raw material.
[0098] All quantities indicated in this document relate to the quantity of active material, unless otherwise stated.
[0099] All percentages, parts and ratios indicated in this document are based on the total weight of the compositions in this disclosure, unless otherwise stated.
[0100] In this document, the expression "application of a composition to the hair" and its variations mean bringing the hair into contact with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner whatsoever. It may also mean bringing the hair into contact with an effective quantity.
[0101] In this document, the term "styling" hair is intended to include "shaping" hair or altering the shape of hair, such as, for example, lengthening hair curls or defining curls.
[0102] In this document, the term "curly hair" refers to any hair that includes a curl or wave. The curl may be natural or artificial, that is, formed by chemical or physical treatment of the hair. The degree of curliness of the hair can vary and is not limited.
[0103] In this document, hair with enhanced or reinforced curl definition may have curls whose shape has a neat curl (English type) appearance rather than being curly, curls that appear more individualized, curls that have a tighter appearance, and / or curls that have an enhanced visual appearance of hair color and / or highlights.
[0104] In this document, the terms "lengthening" and "stretching" of hair are interchangeable, and both refer to reducing the degree of wave or curl and / or tightening of waves or curls in the hair. "Improving the lengthening" of hair or hair curls, and their variants, means that the hair length appears closer to the actual, uncurled length of the hair. Similarly, measuring or assessing the "lengthening" of curly hair refers to the length of hair retained over a period, where hair with greater lengthening or greater length retention appears longer over that period.
[0105] A "leave-in" composition or product means a composition, such as a hair treatment or styling composition, that is not rinsed out and / or removed by washing with water or an acceptable solvent after the composition has been applied to the hair; instead, the composition is left on the hair for a desired period of time, for example, 1 hour, 2 hours, 3 hours, 4 hours, up to 8 hours, overnight, or for as long as necessary, until the next washing or rinsing hair.
[0106] In this document, the term "inorganic" refers to a material that does not contain carbon.
[0107] In this document, the term "high humidity" refers to conditions of relative humidity of at least 70% or more, such as relative humidity of at least 75% or more, or relative humidity of at least 80% or more.
[0108] In this document, the term "organic" refers to a material that is produced substantially without or essentially without the use of synthetic materials. "Organic materials" include materials consisting of organic compounds / molecules comprising at least one carbon atom.
[0109] The terms “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used in this document mean that the specific material may be used in a manufacturing process in small quantities that do not materially affect the fundamental and innovative characteristics of the compositions as disclosed. The terms may also mean that the specific material is not used in a manufacturing process but may still be present in a raw material that is included in the composition.
[0110] As used in this document, the term "salts" throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions is not, however, exhaustive.
[0111] As used in this document, the term "substantially free" or "essentially free" means that the specific material may be present in small amounts that do not materially affect the fundamental and innovative characteristics of the compositions as disclosed. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the compositions (provided that an amount less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the fundamental and innovative characteristics of the compositions as disclosed). Similarly, the compositions may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, or less than 0.01%, or none of the specified materials.In addition, all components that are presented positively in this disclosure may be excluded negatively from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "free", "essentially free" (or . "substantially free") of one or more components that are positively presented in this disclosure. The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used in this document may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition but may still be present in a raw material that is included in the composition.
[0112] In this document, the term "surfactants", as well as any specifically identified surfactant, includes salts of surfactants, even if not explicitly mentioned.
[0113] In this document, the term "synthetic" refers to a material that is not of natural origin. The terms "natural" and "of natural origin" mean a material of natural origin, such as derived from plants, that cannot be subsequently modified chemically or physically. "Of plant origin" means that the material comes from a plant.
[0114] As used in this document, the term "treat" (and its grammatical variations) refers to the application of the compositions of this disclosure to the surface of keratinous materials, such as hair.
[0115] Unless expressly stated otherwise, no process described herein is intended to be interpreted as requiring that its steps be performed in a specific order. Accordingly, where a process claim does not expressly specify an order for its steps, or where the claims or descriptions do not specifically state that the steps must be limited to a specific order, no particular order is to be inferred. EXAMPLES
[0116] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature only. In the examples, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active substances, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0117] Example 1-1 - Compositions with glycine and various concentrations of gluconolactone
[0118]
[00105] The compositions 1A-1D of Table 1 were prepared by combining the glycine with varying amounts of gluconolactone in water, and the pH was corrected with a small amount of citric acid or trisodium citrate, if necessary, to a pH of about 4.1. A first control (Cl) consisted of only water, and a second control (C2) consisted of only water with a small amount of trisodium citrate.
[0119] [Tables 1] Inventive Comparative Control Cl C2 C3 C4 C5 IA IB IC 1D Glycine 2 2 2 2 2 Gluconolacton e 1 5 1 2 3 5 Water 100 QSà 100 QSà 100 QSà 100 QS à 100 QS à 100 QSà 100 QSà 100 QSà 100 Ratio Glycine:Gluconolacton e - - - - - 2:1 1:1 0.67:1 0.4:1
[0120] Identical strands of very curly hair were washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed, and detangled (Time -1). The strands were soaked in one of compositions 1A-1D or C1-C5, and excess water was removed by squeezing each strand between the fingers five (5) times, which also served to mechanically stretch the hair (Time 0). The treated hair strands were left to air dry for 18 hours (Time 1). The treated strands were then placed in a humidity chamber at 80% relative humidity at 25°C for 8 hours (Time 2). The hair strands treated with each of compositions 1A-1D and C1 were evaluated in terms of elongation (length retention), curl definition, and frizz at each of Time 0, Time 1, and Time 2.
[0121] Fig. 1A shows that, at Time 2, each of the compositions 1A-1D containing glycine and varying amounts of gluconolactone offered a surprisingly significant improvement in the retention of length in very curly hair, compared to that offered by compositions C1-C5, even after high humidity. Fig. 1B shows that each of the strands treated with compositions 1A-1D demonstrated significantly better elongation, curl definition, and frizz control than the strands treated with compositions C1-C5 at every time point, even when subjected to high humidity.
[0122] Example 1-1 therefore demonstrates that glycine in combination with gluconolactone at various concentrations and ratios surprisingly offers beneficial synergistic results for curly hair, such as lengthening, curl definition and frizz control.
[0123] Example 1-2 - Compositions with glycine and various concentrations of gluconolactone
[0124] The study of example 1-1 was repeated a second time on a second series of very curly hair strands, with similar results in which compositions 1A-1D offered better lengthening, curl definition and frizz control than compositions C1-C5, even when the hair was subjected to high humidity.
[0125] Example 1-2 therefore confirms the results of Example 1-1, namely that glycine combined with gluconolactone in various concentrations and ratios surprisingly offers synergistic results beneficial to curly hair, such as lengthening, curl definition and frizz control.
[0126] Example 2-1 - Compositions with glycine and gluconolactone at variable pH
[0127] The inventive compositions 2A-2D of Table 2A were prepared by combining identical amounts of gluconolactone and glycine with water in the amounts shown, and adding a pH adjuster (citric acid or trisodium citrate) in sufficient quantity to reach the specified final pH. A control (Cl) consisted only of water.
[0128] [Tables2A] Inventional Control Cl 2A 2B 2C 2D Gluconolactone 1 1 2 2 Glycine 2 2 2 2 Citric acid or trisodium citrate QS QS QS QS Water 100 QS to 100 QS to 100 QS to 100 QS to 100 Measured pH value - 3.3 4.1 5.0 6.0
[0129] Identical strands of very curly hair were washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed, and detangled. Equal amounts of either inventive compositions 2A-2D or the control Cl were applied to separate, wet strands of hair and distributed by raking through the curls to ensure uniform distribution (Time 0). The treated strands were then left to air dry for 18 hours, after which the film on the hair was broken by running the fingers through each strand from top to bottom three (3) times (Time 1). The treated strands were then placed in a humidity chamber at 80% relative humidity at 25°C for 8 hours (Time 2).
[0130] Hair strands treated with one of the compositions 2A-2D or the control Cl were evaluated in terms of length at Time 1 compared to the length at Time 0, and in terms of length at Time 2 compared to length at Time 1, to determine the length retention of each strand over the period in question. Figure 2 shows that each of the compositions 2A-2D offered improved length retention of very curly hair, compared to the control Cl. The results are also shown in Table 2B.
[0131] [Tables2B] Conservation of length over time Inventive Control Cl 2A 2B 2C 2D Time 0 —> Time 1 76% 78% 92% 86% 96% Time 1 —> Time 2 70% 75% 86% 73% 72%
[0132] Example 2-1 demonstrates that compositions containing gluconolactone and glycine offer beneficial length retention for curly hair over a range of pH values.
[0133] Example 2-2 - Compositions with glycine and gluconolactone at variable dH
[0134] The study of example 2-1 was repeated a second time on a second series of very curly hair strands, with similar results, compositions 2A-2D ensuring better length retention than Cl, even when the hair was subjected to high humidity.
[0135] Example 2-2 therefore confirms the results of Example 2-1, namely that glycine combined with gluconolactone at different pH values allows a beneficial synergistic preservation of the length of curly hair.
[0136] Example 3-1 - Hair styling compositions
[0137] The inventive and comparative hair styling compositions in Table 3 were prepared by combining the components shown with water and a pH corrector in sufficient quantity to achieve a final pH in the range of about 4.2 to about 5.2.
[0138] [Tables3] Comparative Inventory 3A C6 C7 C8 C9 C10 C11 C12 Glycine 2 2 2 2 Gluconolactone 1 1 1 1 Xanthan Gum 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Phenoxyethanol 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 Water QS to 100 QS to 100 QS to 100 QS to 100 QS to 100 QS to 100 QS to 100
[0139] Identical strands of very curly hair were washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed, and detangled (Time -1). Equal amounts of one of the inventive composition 3A or the comparative compositions C6-C12 were applied to separated, wet strands of hair and distributed by raking through the curls to ensure even distribution (Time 0). The treated hair strands were then left to air dry for 18 hours (Time 1). The treated strands were then placed in a humidity chamber at 80% relative humidity at 25°C for 5 hours (Time 2). The hair strands treated with each of the compositions 3A or C6-C12 were evaluated in terms of elongation (length retention), curl definition, and frizz at each of Time -1, Time 0, Time 1, and Time 2.
[0140] Fig. 3A shows that the inventive hair styling composition 3A offered surprisingly better length retention for very curly hair, compared to the comparative hair styling compositions C6-C12. Fig. 3B shows that each of the strands treated with the inventive composition 3A demonstrated significantly better elongation, curl definition, and frizz control than the strands treated with the comparative compositions C6-C12 at every time, even when subjected to high humidity.
[0141] Example 3-1 therefore demonstrates that hair treatment compositions according to the disclosure offer surprisingly better elongation (length retention), curl definition and frizz control to curly hair than hair treatment compositions not in accordance with the disclosure.
[0142] Example 3-2 - Hair styling compositions
[0143] The study of example 3-1 was repeated a second time on a second set of very curly hair strands, with similar results, the inventive composition 3A offering better elongation (length retention), curl definition and frizz control to curly hair than the comparative compositions C6-C12, even when the hair was subjected to high humidity.
[0144] Example 3-2 therefore confirms the results of Example 3-1, namely that the compositions according to the disclosure provide amazing benefits to curly hair.
[0145] Example 4 - Compositions with gluconolactone and various amino acids
[0146] The inventive and comparative hair styling compositions in Table 4 were prepared by combining the components shown with water and a pH adjuster (citric acid or trisodium citrate) in sufficient quantity to achieve a final pH in the range of about 4.5 to about 5.3.
[0147] [Tables4] Glucon o-lacton e Taurin e Arginine e Serine Threonine e Phenyl -alanin e Glycin e PH corrector Water Inv ent 4A 1 2 QS QSà 100 if 4B 1 2 QS QSà 100 4C 1 2 QS QSà 100 4D 1 2 QS QSà 100 4E 1 2 QS QSat 100 4F 1 2 QS QSat 100 Co mp C13 2 QS QSat 100 ara tive C14 2 QS QSat 100 C15 2 QS QSat 100 C16 2 QS QSat 100 C17 2 QS QSat 100 C18 2 QS QSat 100 C19 1 QS QS at 100
[0148] Identical strands of very curly hair were washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed, and detangled (Time -1). Equal amounts of one of the inventive compositions 4A-4F or the comparative compositions C13-C19 were applied to separated, wet strands of hair and distributed by raking through the curls. To ensure even distribution (Time 0), the treated hair strands were left to air dry for 18 hours (Time 1). The treated strands were then placed in a humidity chamber at 80% relative humidity and 25°C for 5 hours (Time 2). Hair strands treated with compositions 4A-4F or C13-C19 were evaluated for elongation (length retention), curl definition, and frizz at each of the following times: Time -1, Time 0, Time 1, and Time 2.
[0149] Figure 4A shows that the inventive hair styling compositions 4A-4F offered surprisingly better length retention for very curly hair, compared to the comparative hair styling compositions C13-C19. Figure 4B shows that each of the strands treated with the inventive compositions 4A-4F demonstrated significantly better elongation, curl definition, and frizz control than the strands treated with the comparative compositions C13-C19 at every time, even when subjected to high humidity.
[0150] Example 4 therefore demonstrates that hair styling compositions according to the disclosure comprising gluconolactone in combination with various amino acids surprisingly offer better elongation (length retention), curl definition and frizz control to curly hair than hair treatment compositions not in accordance with the disclosure.
[0151] The above examples demonstrate that the compositions as disclosed provide amazing and unexpected synergistic benefits such as curl definition, curl elongation, and / or improved frizz control to the hair.
[0152] It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations can be made to the compositions and processes according to the disclosure without departing from the spirit or scope of the disclosure. Therefore, it is intended that the disclosure will cover such modifications and variations and their equivalents.
Claims
Claims
1. A composition for styling or shaping hair comprising: (a) about 0.05% to about 10% gluconolactone, (b) about 0.05% to about 10% of at least one compound selected from amino acids, amino sulfonic acids, their salts, or their mixtures, said compound being selected from glycine, its salts, or its mixtures, (c) at least one polysaccharide, said polysaccharide being xanthan gum, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (d) at least one solvent, wherein the pH of the composition is less than about 7.
2. The composition of claim 1, comprising: gluconolactone in an amount of from about 0.05% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3%, most preferably from about 1% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; a total amount of amino acids, amino sulfonic acids and their salts of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, still more preferably from about 0.75% to about 5%, most preferably from about 1% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition;and a total amount of polysaccharides ranging from about 0.05% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, still more preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, most preferably from about 0.5% to about 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.;
3. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the total amounts of (a) gluconolactone and (b) compounds selected from amino acids, amino sulfonic acids and their salts in the composition are such that the weight ratio (b) amino acids / amino sulfonic acids / salts: (a) gluconolactone in the composition is between about 5:1 and about 1:1, preferably between about 4:1 and about 1:1, more preferably between about 3:1 and about 1:1, even more preferably between about 2:5:1 to about 1:1, most preferably from about 2:1 to about 1:
1.
4. A composition according to claim 1, comprising: (a) from about 0.1% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 3%, more preferably from about 1% to about 2% of gluconolactone; (b) from about 0.1% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 6%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 4%, most preferably from about 1% to about 3% of at least one amino acid selected from glycine, its salts, or mixtures thereof;(c) from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, most preferably from about 0.5% to about 1.0% of xanthan gum, and (d) at least one solvent, wherein the weight ratio of the total amounts of (b) amino acids / amino sulfonic acids / salts : (a) gluconolactone in the composition is from about 5:1 to about 1:1; and wherein all amounts are by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.;
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional component chosen from film-forming polymers, anionic surfactants, pH correctors, or mixtures thereof.
6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the pH of the composition is between about 3 and about 6, preferably between about 3.5 and about 5, more preferably between about 4 and about 4.5, most preferably between about 4 and about 4.
3.
7. A process for styling or shaping hair comprising applying to the hair a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.
8. The process of claim 7, wherein the process does not include a step of heating the hair after application of the composition. on the hair.