Makeup process from a polyphenol and at least two polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated compounds, compositions for implementing the process
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022004049
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-04-28
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-10
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-04-28
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic products struggle to balance high performance with natural ingredients and minimal environmental impact while providing long-lasting makeup that resists mechanical friction, water, sweat, and sebum, while maintaining comfort.
A makeup process using a coating agent formed by hydrogen bonds between polyphenols with at least two different phenol groups and hydrocarbon or silicone compounds, preferably non-ionic, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated, to create compositions that enhance cosmetic effects like color longevity and comfort.
The compositions provide excellent hold against external factors like mechanical friction, meals, water, and sebum, while maintaining an acceptable level of comfort and using natural or naturally derived ingredients.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Makeup process using a polyphenol and at least two polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated compounds, compositions for implementing the process
[0001] The present invention relates to a process for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials such as the skin and / or the lips, in which a coating agent formed by interaction by hydrogen bond(s) of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon or silicone compounds, preferably non-ionic, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated, is used. It also relates to the compositions allowing the implementation of such a process.
[0002] Today on the skin and / or lip care and / or makeup market, many products claim to last all day, resistant to external factors such as water, sebum, food, mechanical friction, etc. These "long-lasting" products for the lips, or for the face, which can be used at home, are mainly based on synthetic coating polymers in the presence of organic solvents, most of the time volatile oils. For example, compositions are known comprising a silicone resin as a coating agent, such as for example trimethylsiloxysilicate resins (INCI name) or polypropylsilses-quioxane (INCI name) or even comprising silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer - INCI name).
[0003] For several years now, consumers have become increasingly demanding about the composition of their cosmetic products and are particularly seeking to use products containing an increasingly high content of natural or naturally derived ingredients, ingredients with a minimized environmental impact and / or ingredients that are compatible with numerous packaging options.
[0004] The difficulty, however, remains in reconciling these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance to which they have become accustomed with the products they already use.
[0005] The aim of the present invention is to propose compositions allowing excellent hold of the expected cosmetic effects, in particular the color of the makeup of the skin, the lips, which are resistant to mechanical friction, meals, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil, or even cleaning products, in particular makeup removal products, such as certain micellar waters, makeup remover wipes, for example.
[0006] Furthermore, the present invention aims to provide compositions providing hold to expected cosmetic effects, in particular the color of the makeup, associated with an acceptable level of comfort.
[0007] These and other objectives are achieved by the present invention, which relates to a method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, more particularly for making up, consisting of applying to the skin and / or lips a coating agent formed in situ or previously by interaction by hydrogen bonds of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon or silicone compounds, preferably non-ionic, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated.
[0008] It also relates to a composition (called composition (C)) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coating agent previously formed by interaction by hydrogen bonds of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon or silicone compounds, preferably non-ionic, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated.
[0009] Another subject of the present invention relates to a composition (called composition (D)) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon or silicone compounds, preferably non-ionic, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and c) at least one mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably comprising 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and more particularly ethanol, isopropanol.
[0010] Another object of the invention consists of a cosmetic makeup and / or care kit, comprising at least: a first composition (A) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X as defined previously; and b) a second composition (B) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon or silicone compounds, preferably non-ionic, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated; said compositions (A) and (B) being packaged separately.
[0011] Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.
[0012] In the context of the present invention, it is indicated that the skin designates the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, eye contour), the body, the hands.
[0013] The makeup and / or skin and / or lip care compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This implies that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or lips, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.
[0014] For the purposes of the invention, the term "hydrogen bond interaction" means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom of one of the two reactants and an electronegative heteroatom of the other reactant such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and fluorine. In the context of the invention, the hydrogen bond(s) is(are) formed between the hydroxyl function(s) (OH) of the reactive phenol group(s) of polyphenol X and the hydroxyl group(s) of the compounds Y capable of reacting by hydrogen bond(s) with polyphenol X.
[0015] By “room temperature” we mean 25°C.
[0016] By “atmospheric pressure” we mean 760 mm of Hg or 1,013.105 Pascals.
[0017] POLYPHENOL X
[0018] The polyphenols X which can be used according to the present invention comprise in their structure at least two different phenol groups, preferably at least three.
[0019] By "polyphenol" is meant any compound having in its chemical structure at least two benzene compounds, in free or condensed form, each benzene compound comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), preferably at least 2 hydroxyl groups, or even 3 hydroxyl groups.
[0020] By “different phenol groups” is meant chemically different phenol groups.
[0021] The polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention can be synthetic or natural. They can be in the isolated state or contained in a mixture, in particular contained in a plant extract. The polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two phenolic groups differently substituted on the aromatic ring.
[0022] The two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.
[0023] Examples of flavonoids include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubrins); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin), or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin, naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechin tannins such as such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidzein, or genistein; neo-flavanoids; lignans such as pyroresorcinol; and mixtures thereof.
[0024] Among the natural polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of lignins.
[0025] Examples of non-flavonoids include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidin; and mixtures thereof.
[0026] As polyphenols X which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; coumarins substituted by phenols.
[0027] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol will be selected from catechic tannins such as gallotannins selected from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, vescalagin, vescalin, castaline, casuarictin, castanopsins, excoecarinins, grandinin, gradin, roburines, pterocarine, telligranine, tellimane sanguiine, potentillin, pedunculin, geraniin, che-bulagic acid, sprendisinic acid, ascorgeranine, stachyurin, casuarinin, casuarinin, punicacortein, coriarin, cameliatannine, isodes, dehydrogenyl, dehydroyl galloyl, l punicalagine, les rhoipteleanines.
[0028] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract with the INCI name GREEN TEA EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 45% of epigallocatechin relative to the total weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name DERMOFEEL PHENON 90 MC® sold by the company Evonik Nutrition & Care or the commercial product sold under the name TEA POLYPHENOLS GREEN TEA EXTRACT® by the company Tayo Green Power.
[0029] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark with the INCI name PINUS PINASTER BARK / BUD EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name PYCNOGENOL® sold by the company BIOLANDES AROMES.
[0030] Tannic acid will be used more particularly as polyphenol X. This compound is notably marketed under the name Brewtan F by the company AJINOMOTO OMNICHEM Nv.
[0031] Y COMPOUNDS
[0032] The compounds Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of polyphenol X are therefore chosen from at least two hydrocarbon or silicone compounds, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated.
[0033] According to a particular embodiment, the compounds Y, in the medium of the composition, do not comprise an anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular are non-ionic.
[0034] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises compounds Y whose molar mass is greater than 200 g / mol, or even greater than 350 g / mol.
[0035] More particularly, the compound(s) Y are chosen from linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated silicone compounds, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alcohols, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycols or glycerin, polyethylene glycols, Poloxamer, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated esters, polyoxyethylenated sorbitol or sorbitan esters and Polysorbate, polyoxyethylenated sugar ester or ether derivatives, polyoxyethylenated (poly)amines, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0036] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated silicone compounds
[0037] Non-ionic, linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units and / or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylenated units, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; non-ionic polydimethylsiloxanes with ester functions, polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units; as well as mixtures thereof.
[0038] Preferably, the compound(s) Y is / are chosen from the following compounds designated by their INCI name: PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-9 poly-dimethyl-siloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosspolymer, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-22 / 24 Dimethicone, bis-PEG-12 dimethicone candelillate, Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone beeswax, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0039] Polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene alcohols
[0040] Among the compounds of this type, we can cite, alone or in mixtures:
[0041] Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of the R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH type, R representing a C8-C30 alkyl radical, o representing an average integer ranging from 2 to 50, in particular chosen from Ceteth-2, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-25, Ceteth-40, Isoceteth-20, Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-4, Laureth-12, Laureth-23, Oleth-2, Oleth-5, Oleth-10, Oleth-20, Oleth-25, Deceth-3, Deceth-5, Beheneth-10, Steareth-2, Steareth-10, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Steareth-100, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-33, Coceth-7, Trideceth-12, and mixtures thereof.
[0042] Polyoxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alcohols of the type: R-(OC(CH3)H-CH2 )o-(O-CH2-CH2)p-OH; R representing a C4-C3o alkyl radical, o and p, independent while one of the others, representing an average integer ranging from 1 to 50. Preferably, compound Y is chosen from the compounds whose INCI name is the following: PPG-26-buteth-26, PPG-12-buteth-16, PPG-5-ceteth-20, PPG-4-ceteth-20, PPG-6-decyltetradeceth-30, and mixtures thereof.
[0043] Dolvoxvéthvlénés and / or polvoxypropylénés alkvlglvcols or glycerin
[0044] We can cite in particular, alone or in mixtures:
[0045] Polyoxyethylenated glycerins, in particular oxyethylenated glycerin 26 EO (Glycereth-26).
[0046] Polyoxyalkylenated alkanediols such as PEG-8 Caprylyl Glycol.
[0047] Compounds of the type: R-(O-CH2-CH2)oO-CH2-CH(R')OH in particular Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol.
[0048] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycol ethers such as PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether.
[0049] Compounds of the type H(O-CR-CH2)o-(CH2-CH2-O)p-(CH2-C(R)HO)rH in particular PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer.
[0050] Polyethylene glycols
[0051] As regards these compounds, the latter may be chosen, alone or in mixtures, from polyethylene glycols of the H(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH type, in particular chosen from PEG-6, PEG-8, PEG-14M, PEG-20, PEG-45M, PEG-90, PEG-90M, PEG-150, PEG-180, PEG-220, and mixtures thereof.
[0052] The Poloxamers
[0053] Suitable for carrying out the invention are Poloxamers (INCI name) which correspond in particular to the following formula: HO-(CH2-CH2-O)n-(CHCH3-CH2-O)o (CH2-CH2-O)PH, and for example chosen from Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338, Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0054] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated esters
[0055] Suitable for example:
[0056] Esters of polyethylene glycol and acid of the type: R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH or R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-R or R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qOR or RO-(CH(CH3)-(CH2))p-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-R In which R represent, identical or not, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups, in C2-C20; n, p, q, average whole numbers, identical or not, varying from 2 to 150.
[0057] They may in particular be chosen from PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-6 Stearate, PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-32 Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-8 Distearate, PEG-150 Distearate, Mereth-3 Myristate, PEG-4 Olivate, Propylene Glycol Ceteth-3 Acetate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0058] Esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s) optionally hydroxylated at C6-C4o, more particularly at C8-C30, or derived from vegetable oils, said esters being polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 200 oxyethylenated units, more preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated units, even more particularly between 2 and 80 oxyethylenated units. These compounds are more particularly found in the form of mono-, di- or triglycerides, alone or in mixtures.Examples of such esters include PEG-6 Caprylic / Capric Glycerides, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-10 Olive Glycerides, PEG-45 Palm Kernel Glycerides, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm / Palm Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Polyoxyethylene Palm Glyceride (200 EO) and Coconut Blend polyoxyethylenes (7 EO), as well as their mixtures.
[0059] Polyoxyethylene butters, in particular polyoxyethylene shea butter.
[0060] Polyoxyethylene waxes, in particular chosen from polyoxyethylene ester waxes such as polyoxyethylene jojoba wax (120 EO) (INCI name: Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters), PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG-60 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin, and mixtures thereof
[0061] Polyoxyethylenated dihydrocholesteryl esters, in particular Dihydrocholeth-30.
[0062] PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate.
[0063] Polyoxyethylenated pentaerythritol esters, in particular chosen from PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate.
[0064] Polyoxyethylenated glycerolated esters such as Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate,
[0065] Polyoxyethylenated lanolins such as Laneth-15,
[0066] Mixtures thereof.
[0067] Polyoxyethylenated sorbitol or sorbitan esters and Polysorbate
[0068] These compounds are more particularly chosen from esters of sorbitol or sorbitan (also called sorbitan) and carboxylic acid(s), saturated or not, in C6-C40, advantageously in C8-C30, and comprise 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units.
[0069] Among the Polysorbate (INCI name), we can particularly mention the compounds with the following INCI names: Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-21, Polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-61, Polysorbate-80, Polysorbate-85, as well as their mixtures. As regards Regarding esters, we can mention PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate.
[0070] Ester or ether derivatives of Dolvoxvéthvlénés sugars
[0071] Sugar derivatives are more particularly glucose derivatives such as, for example, polyoxyethylenated alkylglucoses such as the compounds defined by the following INCI names: Methyl-Gluceth-10, Methyl-Gluceth-20. Also suitable are polyoxyethylenated sugar esters such as, for example, the compounds with the following INCI names: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Ses-quistearate, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0072] Polyoxyethylenated (poly)amines
[0073] Suitable for carrying out the invention are polyoxyethylenated alkylamines, more particularly of formula RN[(CH2-CH2-O)H]q[(CH2-CH2-O)rH] with R representing a hydrocarbon group, saturated or not, in C8-C30, and q or r, identical or not, represent an average integer ranging from 1 to 50 and in particular PEG-2-Oleamine. Polyoxyethylenated polyamines such as for example PEG-15 Cocopolyamine may also be suitable.
[0074] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compound(s) Y are chosen from: - non-ionic, linear, branched or crosslinked polydimethylsiloxanes, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units and / or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylenated units, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; non-ionic polydimethylsiloxanes with ester functions, polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units; as well as their mixtures - Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of the R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH type, R representing a C8-C30 alkyl radical, o representing an average whole number ranging from 2 to 50; - Polyoxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alcohols of the type: R-(OC(CH3)H-CH2 )o-(O-CH2-CH2)p-OH; R representing a C4-C30 alkyl radical, o and p, independently of one another, representing an average whole number ranging from 1 to 50; - esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated in C6-C40, more particularly in C8-C30, or derived from vegetable oils, said esters being (poly)oxyethylenated, comprising from 1 to 200 oxyethylenated units, more particularly from 1 to 100, or even from 1 to 80 oxyethylenated units; - Esters of sorbitan and carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, C8-C30, polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units, and in particular Polysorbate; as well as their mixtures; - polyoxyethylenated alkylamines; the C8-C30 alkyl group, the number of oxyethylenated units between 2 and 80; as well as their mixtures; - their mixtures.
[0075] COMPOSITION (A) COMPRISING POLYPHENOL(S) X
[0076] More particularly, the composition (A) has a content of polyphenol(s) X of at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A). Preferably the content of polyphenol(s) X is between 2 and 50% by weight, preferably between 5 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0077] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) comprises water. It may be, for example, demineralized water, or a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water. More particularly, the water content is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0078] Composition (A) may also comprise at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably C2-C5. Examples that may be mentioned are ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol and even more preferably ethanol.
[0079] Preferably, the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably C2-C5, and more particularly ethanol, is greater than 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0080] The pH of composition (A) is preferably less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.
[0081] Composition (A) may optionally comprise other ingredients or solvents soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, di-propylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.
[0082] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, composition (A) is anhydrous.
[0083] The term “anhydrous composition” means any composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, or even less than 2% by weight, or even less than 1% by weight; relative to the total weight of the composition, or even free of water. Preferably, water is not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in small quantities, or even in trace amounts, in the various products used.
[0084] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) comprises an oily phase.
[0085] The term “oily phase” means a liquid phase at room temperature and atmospheric pressure comprising at least one fatty substance, different from the Y compounds, such as oils, waxes, pasty bodies as well as possibly all organic solvents and ingredients which are soluble or miscible in said phase.
[0086] Oils
[0087] The oil or oils may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile, polar or apolar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0088] By "oil" is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1,013.105 Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0089] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
[0090] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.
[0091] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.
[0092] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).
[0093] Volatile hydrocarbon oils
[0094] Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made more particularly of those chosen from hydrocarbon oils of the hydrocarbon type (therefore apolar hydrocarbon oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) as well as of the ester type. In particular, they may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular: - branched C8-Ci6 alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, - linear alkanes, for example Cn-Ci5, alone or in mixtures, - branched C8-Ci6 esters, for example isohexyl neopentanoate, - mixtures thereof.
[0095] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by the company SHELL, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE10 2008 012 457.
[0096] Volatile silicone oils
[0097] Among the volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, inter alia, of linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms; as well as their mixtures.
[0098] Examples of such oils include octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.
[0099] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils
[0100] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and also comprising at least one oxygen atom. More particularly, such an oil comprises one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions, and preferably hydroxyl, ester, ether.
[0101] As an example of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular of which the fatty acids may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oils, sunflower oils, grape seed oils, sesame oils, corn oils, apricot oils, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, pumpkin seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil; shea oil; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéa-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with at least one such as cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate,isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate; , - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butane diol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®; - esters and polyesters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 80 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; - aromatic esters and polyesters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate; - esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, for example with the INCI name: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference; - fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether; - dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; - and their mixtures.
[0102] Non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils
[0103] The oil may also be chosen from non-volatile, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably saturated, apolar hydrocarbon oils.
[0104] The non-volatile, linear or branched, apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, non-volatile hydrocarbon-type oils).
[0105] Said apolar, linear or branched oils can be of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example: - paraffin oil, - squalane, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly in C15-C2s, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-28 Alkane (INCI name), such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the Indopol range marketed by the company INEOS Oligomers, - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, non-volatile compounds from the PURESYN® range marketed by the company Exxonmobil), - and their mixtures.
[0106] Non-volatile silicone oils
[0107] The non-volatile oil may also be chosen from phenylated or non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils. More particularly, said silicone oils are free of (poly)alkoxylated groups such as in particular (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or (poly)glycerolated groups.
[0108] For the purposes of the invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
[0109] More particularly, the non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, is chosen from dimethicones, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl di-methicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0110] These products are notably marketed under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Fluid Grade (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone such as KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphe-nylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu, marketed by Shin Etsu; Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C (ASTM D-445 standard).
[0111] When composition (A) is anhydrous, preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, more preferably chosen from C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin such as isodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, and more particularly isododecane.
[0112] Waxes
[0113] The composition may optionally comprise at least one wax.
[0114] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C and up to 120°C.
[0115] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting temperature of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments.
[0116] The measurement protocol is as follows: A wax sample of approximately 5 mg is placed in a crucible "hermetic aluminum capsule. The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting temperature value of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the value of the top of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.
[0117] The waxes can be hydrocarbon, silicone, and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.
[0118] More particularly, the waxes are chosen from apolar hydrocarbon waxes, polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably esters, as well as their mixtures.
[0119] Among the apolar hydrocarbon waxes (i.e. comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure), mention may in particular be made of polyethylene, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes, particularly of polyethylene, as well as their mixtures.
[0120] Among the polar hydrocarbon waxes (therefore comprising carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms), waxes advantageously comprising at least one alcohol, ester and / or ether group are suitable.
[0121] In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax; sunflower wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, japan wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montane wax, as well as mixtures thereof, may be used as wax.
[0122] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, mention may in particular be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S®" by the company HETERENE, di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B® by the company HETERENE.
[0123] Also suitable are waxes of the C2o-C4o alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate type, alone or as a mixture, or a C2o-C4o alkyl stearate. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®”, “Kester Wax K 80 P®”, or “KESTER WAX K82H” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
[0124] As alcohol wax, mention may be made of mixtures of linear, saturated C30-C50 alcohols such as, for example, Performacol 550-L Alcohol wax from New Phase Technologie, stearic alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
[0125] Pasty compounds
[0126] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, and comprising at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have an initial melting point of less than 20°C. Furthermore, the pasty compound may have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes.
[0127] In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is however as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to an initial temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fat is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fat is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the quantity of energy required to pass the pasty fat from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is equal to the value under the curve of the thermogram obtained.
[0128] Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon compounds are chosen from:
[0129] - vegetable butters, such as for example mango butter, such as that com marketed under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii ButteR, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter such as that marketed under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, as well as orange wax such as, for example, that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,
[0130] - partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as soybean oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,
[0131] - esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C16-C22 fatty acids, in particular of isostearic acid as the compound with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by the company NISSHIN OIL,
[0132] - triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, optionally mono or poly-hydroxylated, preferably C12-C18, optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially); such as for example the glycerides of saturated fatty acids C12-C18 marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides),
[0133] - polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched dicarboxylic acid in C6-C10 and of diglycerol ester and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C20, such as in particular the ester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, and of INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2. This type of compound is notably marketed under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo.
[0134] - polyesters obtained from an acid dimer, said acid being unsaturated and comprising from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and at least one alcohol or polyol, such as for example: * esters of dimer diol (e.g. dilinoleic alcohol) and dilinoleic acid whose hydroxyl groups are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid esters, such as those sold under the names RISOCAST-DA-L or RISOCASTDA-H by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).
[0135] Preferably, if the composition comprises them, the pasty hydrocarbon compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, compounds with the INCI name Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and mixtures thereof.
[0136] When composition (A) is anhydrous, the concentration in the oily phase of said composition is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than 10% by weight, and more particularly varies from 20 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0137] COMPOSITION (B) COMPRISING THE Y COMPOUNDS
[0138] Preferably, the content of compounds Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 75% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0139] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition (B) comprising the compound(s) Y comprises at least water. It may be, for example, demineralized water, or a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.
[0140] The quantity of water is preferably greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
[0141] Composition (B) may also comprise at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably C2-C5. Examples that may be mentioned are ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol, preferably ethanol.
[0142] Preferably, the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably C2-C5, and more particularly ethanol, is greater than 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (B).
[0143] The pH of composition (B) is preferably less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.
[0144] Composition (B) may optionally comprise other ingredients or solvents soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, di-propylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.
[0145] According to another embodiment of the invention, composition (B) is anhydrous.
[0146] According to another embodiment, composition (B) may comprise at least an oily phase as defined previously.
[0147] When composition (B) is anhydrous, preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, more preferably chosen from C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isodecane, isohexadecane, isododecane and more particularly isododecane.
[0148] When composition (B) is anhydrous, the concentration in the oily phase of the composition of the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than 10% by weight, and more particularly varies from 20 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).
[0149] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the compositions (A) and (B) so that they are compatible and can be mixed and the quantities make it possible to obtain in the mixture obtained, the formation of a coating agent by interaction by hydrogen bonds of the polyphenol X with the compounds Y as defined.
[0150] COMPOSITION (C)
[0151] The present invention also relates to a composition (C) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coating agent previously formed by interaction by hydrogen bonds of at least one polyphenol X with at least two compounds Y, as defined previously.
[0152] Pre-formed coating agent
[0153] The coating agent present in the compositions of the invention is obtained by reacting by interaction via hydrogen bonds, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon or silicone compounds, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated; both previously described.
[0154] Advantageously, the content of pre-formed coating agent varies from 1 to 60% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C).
[0155] Process for preparing the coating agent
[0156] The reaction medium may be aqueous, hydrophilic or anhydrous. Ideally, the solvent in which the preparation of the coating agent is carried out is easily removable, in particular by evaporation. Thus, the coating agent may advantageously be synthesized in water or in a volatile oil such as those indicated above, preferably isododecane.
[0157] The polyphenol X and the compounds Y are preferably introduced into the reaction medium with a ratio of the mass of polyphenol X, expressed as active material, to the mass of the compounds Y, expressed as active material, varying between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.
[0158] The order of introduction does not matter. The contact time can be very rapid or it can be left to incubate with shaking (a few hours).
[0159] The precipitate obtained corresponding to the coating agent is recovered either by filtration of the solvent or centrifugation or by evaporation of the solvent.
[0160] The precipitate is then washed several times so as to eliminate the initial reagents. which were not involved in the formation of the precipitate. The washing solvent is more particularly chosen from among the solvents of polyphenol X and / or associated compounds Y. Ideally, the washing solvent is water.
[0161] The number of washes can be determined by measuring the polyphenol X recovered in the wash water. When the level is low, it can be considered that the excess reagents have been eliminated. The quantity of solvent present in the precipitate is more particularly less than 40% by weight relative to the weight of the precipitate, or even less than 35% by weight relative to the weight of the precipitate.
[0162] The precipitate can then be dried, in particular in the open air, under a heated atmosphere, under vacuum or freeze-dried.
[0163] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition (C) comprises at least water. This may in particular be demineralized water, or floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSA Y water and / or thermal water.
[0164] Depending on the nature of the aqueous composition (C), the quantity of water is preferably greater than 30% by weight, or even greater than 40% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 30 to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C).
[0165] The composition comprises at least one coloring material which will be described later.
[0166] According to another particular embodiment, the composition (C) may comprise at least one oily phase as defined previously.
[0167] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition (C) is anhydrous.
[0168] According to another particular embodiment, the composition (C) may be in a multiphase form, for example in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (continuous aqueous phase in which an oily phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture), in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (continuous oily phase in which an aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture).
[0169] When composition (C) contains water, the pH of the aqueous phase is preferably less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.
[0170] When composition (C) comprises an oily phase, the latter comprises at least one oil
[0171] When the composition (C) comprises an oily phase, the concentration of oily phase is preferably greater than 10% by weight, or even greater than 20% by weight, and more preferably varies from 30 to 75% relative to the total weight of the composition (C).
[0172] Preferably, if composition (C) comprises an oily phase, the latter comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil. It preferably does not contain any silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile.
[0173] When composition (C) is an emulsion, it may comprise one or more emulsifying surfactants.
[0174] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “emulsifying surfactant” means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, i.e. one having two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase. The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic balance) value, HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in “The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. HLB is greater than 8 for the preparation of O / W emulsions.The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.
[0175] According to a preferred form of the invention, when the composition (C) is anhydrous, the oily phase of the composition (C) comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and particularly isododecane.
[0176] The quantity of volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) may preferably range from 20% to 80% by weight, and even more preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (C).
[0177] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in order to improve the dispersibility of the coating agent homogeneously in the composition (C), a thickening system (polymers, waxes or pasty bodies), a suspending agent or an emulsifying system, in particular of the lamellar phase type, can be added.
[0178] COMPOSITION (D)
[0179] Another subject of the invention relates to a composition (D) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at least one polyphenol X as defined above, b) at least two compounds Y as defined above, and c) at least one mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, more particularly comprising from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol, even more preferably ethanol.
[0180] In this composition, the coating agent is in a latent state and only appears completely in situ, that is to say once the composition (D) has been applied to the skin and / or the lips. In other words, in the composition (D), before its application, the conditions (ingredients, contents) are such that they do not promote the interaction of the polyphenol(s) X and compound(s) Y with each other. Preferably, these compounds do not precipitate in the composition before its application.
[0181] Preferably, the content of polyphenol X in composition (D) is at least 2% by weight, preferably between 2 and 30% by weight, and even more particularly from 3 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).
[0182] Preferably, the content of compounds Y in composition (D) represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0183] More particularly, the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compounds Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.
[0184] Advantageously, the content of C2-C8 mono-alcohol, more particularly C2-C5, in particular ethanol, is such that the compounds X and Y do not react in the composition (D) before its application. Said mono-alcohol can thus be considered as a hydrogen bond inhibitor. By "hydrogen bond inhibiting agent" is meant any compound capable of preventing the interaction by hydrogen bonds between the polyphenol X and the compounds Y and / or of dissociating the complex formed by said interaction by breaking the hydrogen bonds. More particularly, the content of C2-C8 mono-alcohol is at least 25% by weight, in particular between 25 and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30 and 85% by weight and even more particularly between 35 and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).
[0185] According to a first embodiment of the invention, composition (D) comprises water. Here again, it may be demineralized water, or floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSA Y water and / or thermal water.
[0186] More particularly, the composition (D) comprises a water content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the water content of the composition (D) is between 0 and 5% by weight, limits included, relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0187] If the composition comprises water, then the pH of the aqueous phase is advantageously less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particu- It generally varies from 2 to 6.
[0188] The composition may optionally comprise other ingredients or solvents soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, di-propylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.
[0189] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (D) comprises an oily phase.
[0190] Reference may be made to the definition of the oily phase detailed previously during the description of composition (A).
[0191] More particularly, when composition (D) comprises an oily phase, then its content is between 1 and 60% by weight, preferably between 1 and 50% by weight, even more especially between 1 and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0192] According to a first variant of the invention, if the oily phase is present in the composition, then it comprises at least one non-volatile oil.
[0193] According to another variant of the invention, the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably a volatile silicone oil. Preferably, the content of volatile silicone oil is less than or equal to 20% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0194] According to another embodiment of the invention, the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, more particularly at a content of less than or equal to 20% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 9% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight and even more precisely less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0195] Composition (D) is advantageously in a liquid form.
[0196] Composition (D) may also comprise at least one wax. Reference may be made to the list indicated previously in the description of composition (A). The content of wax(es), if composition (D) comprises any, generally varies between 0.1 and 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0197] Composition (D) may optionally contain at least one pasty compound, as described previously in the description of composition (A). If composition (D) comprises any, the content of pasty compound(s) is more particularly less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0198] COLOURING MATTER
[0199] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) comprises at least one coloring matter, in particular chosen from synthetic, natural or naturally derived coloring matters.
[0200] The coloring matter may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0201] Pigments
[0202] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit.
[0203] According to a first particular embodiment, the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.
[0204] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.
[0205] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.
[0206] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D
[50] greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.
[0207] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvem, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range from 0.01 qm to 1000 qm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0208] D
[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.
[0209] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made of more particularly titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.
[0210] As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.
[0211] By “mother-of-pearl” is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.
[0212] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials.
[0213] Examples of mother-of-pearls that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.
[0214] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.
[0215] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of any effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.
[0216] For example, this material can be chosen from metallic sheen particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.
[0217] According to a particular embodiment, the composition ((A), (B), (C) and / or (D) according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.
[0218] According to another particular embodiment, the composition (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.
[0219] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Since they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show a predominant affinity for a oily phase which can then carry them.
[0220] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.
[0221] For the purposes of the invention, “coating” a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
[0222] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, chemical-mechanical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
[0223] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
[0224] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.
[0225] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.
[0226] The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surfactant, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
[0227] The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.
[0228] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.
[0229] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.
[0230] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
[0231] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.
[0232] According to another particular embodiment, the coloring matter is an organic pigment, syn- aesthetic, natural or of natural origin.
[0233] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0234] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolics as described in patent FR 2 679 771.,
[0235] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.
[0236] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0237] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
[0238] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0239] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&CRed7 (CI 15 850:1).
[0240] The pigment(s) are preferably present in the composition ((A), (B), (C) and / or (D) at contents of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition concerned. More particularly, the coloring matter content is less than 50% by weight, and more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition concerned (A), (B), (C) and / or (D).
[0241] Water-soluble or fat-soluble colorants
[0242] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring material is a water-soluble dye or a liposoluble dye.
[0243] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble coloring matter" means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.
[0244] For the purposes of the invention, the term “liposoluble coloring matter” means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase and capable of coloring.
[0245] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1.
[0246] Among the natural water-soluble colorants, we can cite anthocyanins.
[0247] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, Sudan brown.
[0248] As an illustration of natural fat-soluble colorants, we can particularly mention carotenes such as [3-carotene, α-carotene, lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryp-toxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls.
[0249] The water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant(s) are preferably present in the composition ((A), (B), (C) and / or (D) at contents of less than 4% by weight, or even in less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A), (B), (C) or (D).
[0250] COSMETIC ADDITIVES
[0251] The compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) of the invention may contain additives customary in cosmetics. Mention may in particular be made of antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, gelling agents or thickeners, surfactants, cosmetic active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, and mixtures thereof.
[0252] Antioxidants
[0253] In particular, antioxidant agents are used to prevent the oxidation of polyphenol X. They can be chosen from ascorbic acid and its derivatives, erythorbic acid, citric acid, sulfites and meta bisulfite, thiol-type reducers, in particular cysteine. Mention may also be made of carotenes and lycopenes, which also act as fat-soluble colorants.
[0254] These additives may be present in compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15.0%, of the total weight of the composition.
[0255] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.
[0256] Compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic field.
[0257] MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE METHODS
[0258] From compositions (A) and (B)
[0259] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, consisting of successively applying, regardless of the order of application to the skin and / or lips: a) at least one composition (A) as defined above; and b) at least one composition (B) as defined above; composition (A) and / or composition (B) advantageously containing at least one coloring matter.
[0260] More particularly, the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material to the mass of compound(s) Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.
[0261] Variant 1
[0262] According to a first variant, the following are successively applied to the skin and / or the lips: a) a first layer with a makeup composition (A) (base coat) as defined previously comprising at least one coloring matter then b) on the skin and / or lips thus treated, a second post-treatment layer (top coat) with a composition (B) as defined previously.
[0263] According to a particular embodiment, said makeup composition (A) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (B) is aqueous.
[0264] According to another particular embodiment, said makeup composition (A) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (B) is anhydrous.
[0265] According to another particular embodiment, said makeup composition (A) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (B) is aqueous.
[0266] According to another particular embodiment, said makeup composition (A) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (B) is anhydrous.
[0267] Variant 2
[0268] According to a second variant, the following are successively applied to the skin and / or the lips: a) a first layer (base coat) with a makeup composition (B) as defined previously comprising at least one coloring matter, then b) on the skin and / or lips thus treated, a second post-treatment layer (top coat) with a post-treatment composition (A) as defined previously.
[0269] According to a particular embodiment, said makeup composition (B) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (A) is aqueous.
[0270] According to another particular embodiment, said makeup composition (B) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (A) is anhydrous.
[0271] According to another particular embodiment, said makeup composition (B) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (A) is aqueous.
[0272] According to another particular embodiment, said makeup composition (B) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (A) is anhydrous.
[0273] Variant 3
[0274] According to a third variant, the following are successively applied to the skin and / or the lips: a) a first layer (base coat) of pretreatment with a composition (A) as defined previously, then b) on the skin and / or lips thus treated, a second layer of makeup (top coat) with a composition (B) as defined previously comprising at least one compound Y and at least one coloring matter.
[0275] According to a particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (A) is aqueous and the makeup composition (B) is aqueous.
[0276] According to another particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (A) is aqueous and the makeup composition (B) is anhydrous.
[0277] According to another particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (A) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (B) is aqueous.
[0278] According to another particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (A) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (B) is anhydrous.
[0279] Variant 4
[0280] According to a fourth variant, the following are successively applied to the skin and / or the lips: a) a first layer (base coat) of pretreatment with a composition (B) as defined previously, then b) on the skin and / or lips thus treated, a second layer of makeup (top coat) with a composition (A) as defined previously comprising at least one coloring matter.
[0281] According to a particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (B) is aqueous and the makeup composition (A) is aqueous.
[0282] According to another particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (B) is aqueous and the makeup composition (A) is anhydrous.
[0283] According to another particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (B) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (A) is aqueous.
[0284] According to another particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (B) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (A) is anhydrous.
[0285] Among variants 1 to 4 defined above, variants 1 and 2 will preferably be used, in which a first layer of makeup is applied with composition (A) or composition (B) containing said coloring matter(s).
[0286] One or more pigments will preferably be used as coloring matter, when the makeup composition (A) and / or composition (B) comprises an anhydrous support comprising an oily phase.
[0287] Among variants 1 to 4 defined previously, variants 1 and 4 will be used more particularly in which the coloring materials are in composition (B) as defined previously.
[0288] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the following are successively applied to the skin and / or the lips: a) a first layer of makeup (base coat) with a composition (B) preferably anhydrous, as defined previously comprising at least one coloring matter, preferably a pigment, then b) on the skin and / or lips thus colored, a second post-treatment layer (top coat) with an aqueous composition (A) as defined previously.
[0289] From composition (C) or composition (D)
[0290] Another cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, according to the invention, consists of applying to the skin and / or the lips, at least one composition (C) as defined above.
[0291] Composition (C) may advantageously comprise at least one coloring material.
[0292] Another cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, according to the invention, consists of applying to the skin and / or the lips, at least one composition (D) as defined above.
[0293] Composition (D) may advantageously comprise at least one coloring material.
[0294] Involving a composition (M)
[0295] With compositions (A) and (B)
[0296] According to another object, the present invention relates to a method of making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, consisting of successively applying: (a) a layer formed by application to the skin and / or lips, i) simultaneously; or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, regardless of the order: a)l) of at least one composition (A) as defined above; and a)2) of at least one composition (B) as defined previously; b) on the skin and / or lips thus treated, a layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil.
[0297] According to another particular form, said process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips consists of successively applying: a) a first layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil and at least one coloring matter; and b) on the first colored layer, a second layer formed by application to the skin and / or lips, i) simultaneously; or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, regardless of the order: b)l) of at least one composition (A) as defined previously; and b)2) of at least one composition (B) as defined previously.
[0298] The application of compositions (A) and (B) on the one hand and of composition (M) on the other hand, whatever the order of application, is advantageously carried out without mixing. More particularly, it is preferred that the composition of the second step be applied once that of the first step has at least partially dried. As an indication, the second step is carried out a few minutes after the first.
[0299] With composition fC) or composition fD)
[0300] Another method of making up the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, consists of successively applying: a) a layer consisting of at least one composition (C) or one composition (D) as defined previously; the composition (C) or the composition (D) applied comprising at least one coloring matter, and b) a layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil.
[0301] Another method of making up the skin and / or lips according to the invention consists of successively applying: a) a layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil and at least one coloring matter; and b) on the first colored layer, a second layer consisting of at least one composition (C) or one composition (D) as defined previously.
[0302] The application of compositions (C) or (D) on the one hand and of composition (M) on the other hand, whatever the order of application, is advantageously carried out without mixing. More particularly, it is preferred that the composition of the second step be applied once that of the first step has at least partially dried. As an indication, the second step is carried out a few minutes after the first.
[0303] Composition (M)
[0304] The composition (M) comprises at least one oil. Reference may be made to the description of the oils indicated previously.
[0305] The composition (M) may also optionally comprise at least one coloring material chosen from those defined above.
[0306] The composition (M) may advantageously comprise at least one silicone or non-silicone film-forming polymer, or a mixture.
[0307] Examples of silicone film-forming polymers that may be mentioned include silicone resins, such as resins with the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxysilicate, phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, and mixtures thereof. Also suitable are polymers with the following INCI names: acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, acrylates / dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.
[0308] The film-forming polymer may also be chosen from ethylcellulose, or block ethylenic copolymers such as, for example, acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / isobutyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name).
[0309] If the composition (M) comprises them, the content of film-forming polymer(s) advantageously varies between 0.1 and 50% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (M).
[0310] The composition (M) may also contain one or more ingredients commonly used in this type of product such as pasty compounds, in particular hydro carbonaceous compounds such as vegetable butters (e.g. shea butter), ester compounds derived from dimerdiol dimerdilinoleate (e.g. bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate) or bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; waxes, in particular hydrocarbon-based, polar (e.g. ester type) or apolar (e.g. polyethylene, microcrystalline wax, etc.); organic solvents; thickeners; fillers, colorless or white, lamellar, spherical or in the form of fibers; cosmetic active ingredients such as vitamins, solar UV filters, moisturizing agents, antioxidant agents.
[0311] Composition (M) may or may not comprise water.
[0312] The composition (M) may be a product, in particular makeup and / or skin care. the skin, face, cheeks, eye contour. If these compositions (M) are intended for makeup, they then contain at least one coloring matter as defined previously.
[0313] The compositions (M) for the skin are preferably gels, creams, milks or lotions. They may be aqueous dispersions, anhydrous oily compositions or multiphase compositions such as oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, bi- or triphasic compositions.
[0314] The compositions (M) for the skin can also be in solid form and hot-cast.
[0315] The compositions (M) for the skin, in particular for makeup, can also be eye shadows or blushers, and more particularly be in the form of loose or compact powder.
[0316] By “compact powder” is meant a mass of product whose cohesion is ensured at least in part by compaction during manufacturing.
[0317] By "loose powder" is meant a mass of product which is capable of collapsing under its own weight; such a mass being formed of particles which are mainly isolated and mobile relative to each other.
[0318] The makeup compositions (M) in the form of loose or compact powder, preferably anhydrous, generally comprise at least one pulverulent phase, in a content in particular greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising at least one filler which may represent a content greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0319] The composition (M) may be a product intended to be applied to the lips, in particular a lipstick, a lip gloss or a lip balm.
[0320] The compositions (M) for the lips can be in solid form such as a stick or cup products or even in liquid form.
[0321] They can be anhydrous or aqueous, in particular water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions.
[0322] Composition (M) may also be an eyeliner which is preferably an aqueous composition with at least one film-forming polymer, in particular in the form of a dispersion of particles (latex).
[0323] PACKAGING AND APPLICATORS
[0324] The compositions (A), (B) (C), (D) and / or (M) according to the invention may each be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment which comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closing element.
[0325] The container may be in any suitable form. It may in particular be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case.
[0326] The closure element may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid, a cover, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged to the body. It may also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, in particular a pump, a valve, or a flap.
[0327] The container may be associated with an applicator, for example in the form of a brush (as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380), in the form of an element, deformable or not, made of foam or elastomer, flocked or not. The applicator may also be free (sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure element, as described for example in patent US 5 492 426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959.
[0328] The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.
[0329] The closure element may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is achieved by means other than screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fastening, or by tightening. By "snap-fastening" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the non-elastically stressed position of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.
[0330] The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene.
[0331] The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.
[0332] The container may include means for causing or facilitating dispensing of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to a pressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container.
[0333] The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to which it may be attached. Such a wiper is described for example in patent FR 2 792 618.
[0334] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.
[0335] The expressions “between... and...” and “ranging from... to...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.
[0336] Furthermore, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.
[0337] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.
[0338] Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a mass percentage.
[0339] The following examples are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. Examples
[0340] Example 1
[0341] The following compositions (D) were prepared:
[0342] [Tables 1] Ingredients (INCI name) (Dl) (D2) (D3) DComp Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv) 11.25 10 15 10 PPG-5-CETETH-20 (Procetyl AWS-LQ-(AP) - Croda) 3.75 5 7.5 PEG-10 olive glyceride (Olive Oil W - Lipoid Kosmetik) 11.25 5 7.5 Red 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079 OR - Sensient) 10 10 10 10 Ethanol Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0343] Preparation process While stirring with Rayneri, dissolve the tannic acid (polyphenol X) in the solvent at room temperature. Once the tannic acid is dissolved, add the Y compounds while still stirring. After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, add the coloring matter(s) and continue stirring until completely homogenized. Condition.
[0344] Application of the compositions
[0345] The compositions are in the form of colored liquids. If the appearance of a phase shift is observed, it is sufficient to shake the container to rehomogenize the composition before application.
[0346] They are easily applied to the lips, using a dip applicator for example, in a homogeneous and thin deposit, relatively comfortable. The deposit does not run.
[0347] Once dry, it is almost imperceptible.
[0348] The composition was evaluated in a test of resistance to mechanical and chemical aggression: dry friction, water and oil.
[0349] Performance evaluation protocol
[0350] L Test preparation:
[0351] Support: Supplale beige (2.5 x 5 cm) (marketed by Soudotique).
[0352] Spread composition (D) over the entire surface 3 times in a row to obtain a homogeneous deposit. Repeat the operation on two other strips. Leave the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 34°C for 30 minutes. If a composition (M) is used, then apply it over the composition (D), over the entire surface 3 times, in a row to have a homogeneous deposit. Do the same on the other two strips Allow the deposit to dry again on a plate heated to 34°C for 30 minutes. If necessary, take a photo of each surface with the deposit (made up) before applying it.
[0353] 2, Requests:
[0354] Preparation of a tissue for each request: Fold each tissue twice along the long edge and then twice in the other direction to form a square.
[0355] Dry resistance:
[0356] Rub once with the handkerchief folded lengthwise one of the three made-up surfaces; the force applied is that normally exerted when removing make-up from the skin or lips. Observe the condition of the rubbed support as well as the used surface of the handkerchief, in particular the remaining coloring, the transferred coloring. Possibly take a photo.
[0357] In the case where several passes are made, they would then be made with the same force and always in the same direction (i.e.: after each pass, the handkerchief is lifted to be repositioned at the "start" of the strip in order to be reapplied to the deposit in the same way as in the previous pass). Possibly take a photo between each step or only at the end of the evaluation. This type of process can be implemented to evaluate the overall resistance of the deposit.
[0358] Water resistance:
[0359] Insert the second coated support without folding it into a centrifuge tube. Add 10 grams of demineralized water. Centrifuge for 10 minutes at 450g. Optionally take a photo of the support after mixing, immediately after the operation. Rub once with a tissue along the length of the support, without waiting, with the same force as that applied for dry resistance. Observe the condition of the rubbed support as well as the used surface of the handkerchief, in particular the remaining coloring, the transferred coloring. Possibly take a photo.
[0360] The protocol for multiple passes is the same as that detailed previously for dry resistance.
[0361] Oil resistance:
[0362] Implement the same protocol as for water resistance, on the third made-up support, replacing the water with the same quantity of olive oil (Refined Olive Oil - Aarhuskarlshamn).
[0363] Rating:
[0364] For each request, note the result according to the table below:
[0365] [Tables2] Note State of the deposit Surface of the fabric in contact with the deposit - - Total or partial removal of the deposit on the rubbed area; the surface of the support appears in places Very intense coloration - very significant to total transfer of the color - Partial removal resulting in a significantly and visibly less intense coloration of the deposit. Intense coloration - significant transfer of the color + Reduction in the intensity of the color of the deposit perceptible but which does not reveal the support Medium coloration - average transfer of the color ++ No substantial variation in the color of the deposit Slight coloration - little transfer of the color +++ No variation in the color of the deposit No coloration or barely visible coloration - no to very little transfer of the color
[0366] It should be noted that to facilitate the evaluation of the resistance of the deposit, the latter comprises at least one coloring material whose coloring is sufficiently intense (for example a red coloring material, such as Red 7 in particular).
[0367] When comparing several compositions, the latter have the same shade (same quantity and same coloring matter).
[0368] It should be noted that the resistance of the deposit, as well as other properties (homogeneity, comfort, etc.) can also be evaluated by a Sensory Panel (group of trained experts allowing a description of technical characteristics to be obtained - standards ISO 8586, ISO 11132, ISO 13299).
[0369] Results:
[0370] [Tables3] Test Dry friction resistance Water friction resistance Oil friction resistance DI +++ +++ +++ D2 +++ ++ ++ D3 +++ +++ +++ DComp ++ + +
[0371] Examples 2: Composition (A) and composition (B)
[0372] The following compositions (A) were prepared:
[0373] [Tables4] Ingredients (INCI name) (Al) (A2) Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv) 10 5 Red 27 (Unicert RED K7053-J - Sensient) - 0.5 Ethanol Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0374] Preparation process While stirring Rayneri, dissolve the tannic acid (polyphenol X) in the solvent(s) at room temperature. After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, if necessary, add the coloring matter and continue stirring until completely homogenized. Condition
[0375] The following compositions (B) were prepared:
[0376] [Tables5] Ingredients (INCI name) (Bl) (B2) PEG-10 olive glyceride (Olive Oil W -Lipoid Kosmetik) 5 2.5 PPG-5-CETETH-20 (Procetyl AWS-LQ-(AP) - Croda) 5 2.5 Red 27 (Unicert RED K7053-J - Sensient) 0.5 Ethanol Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0377] Preparation process While stirring with Rayneri, mix compound X into the solvent at room temperature. Once well combined, add the coloring matter if present. Keep stirring until the mixture is homogeneous. Condition
[0378] Application of the compositions
[0379] First, a composition (A) (or a composition (B)) is applied so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit on the lips.
[0380] Then, once the first composition has dried, a composition (B) (or a composition (A)) is applied over it without mixing as a top coat according to the combinations below:
[0381] [Tableauxô] Test Test 1 Test 2 Base coat (Bl) (A2) Top coat (Al) (B2)
[0382] Performance evaluation
[0383] The conditions of the performance evaluation test are the same as those detailed for Example 1, except that in the first step a composition (A) (or respectively a composition (B)) is applied; then in the second step, a composition (B) (or respectively a composition (A)) is applied. The notations are the same as detailed in Example 1.
[0384] Results:
[0385] [Tables?] Test Resistance to dry friction Resistance to water friction Resistance to oil friction Test 1 +++ +++ +++ Test 2 +++ +++ +++
[0386] Examples 3: Two-step process with composition (D)
[0387] The following compositions (M) were prepared:
[0388] Composition (Ml)
[0389] [Tables8] Ingredients (INCI name) Quantity % by weight Isododecane qsp 100 Trimethylsiloxysilicate (SR 1000 - Momentive Performance Materials) 17.5 Lauroyl lysine 1.5 Disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V® - Elementis) 26 Isododecane 20 Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymer (Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant- Dow Corning) 11 C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax - Dow Corning) 0.5
[0390] Preparation process With Rayneri stirring, mix all the compounds together directly at 70°C. Allow to stir until the mixture is smooth and allow to cool to room temperature. Condition.
[0391] Compositions (M2)
[0392] [Tables9] Ingredients (INCI name) Quantity % by weight phase Octyldodecanol qsp 100 A Ethylcellulose (Aqualon EC N7 - Ashland) 30 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000 -Wacker) 30 B
[0393] Preparation process While stirring with Rayneri, mix the compounds of phase A at 95°C. Keep stirring until the mixture is well blended. Add phase B while stirring. Once the mixture is homogenized, let it cool to room temperature. Condition.
[0394] Application of the compositions
[0395] First, the composition (D2) of example 1 is applied so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit on the support (base coat).
[0396] Then, once the first composition has dried, a composition (M1) or (M2) (top coat) is applied over it without mixing according to the following combinations:
[0397] [TableauxlO] Test Test 3 Test 4 Base coat (D2) (D2) Top coat (Ml) (M2)
[0398] The deposit obtained in test 1 is very fine, homogeneous and comfortable, without migration or transfer (for example, kiss test on a cup in particular).
[0399] The deposit obtained in test 2 remains relatively fine, comfortable, non-sticky, without migration or transfer.
[0400] The performance evaluation test conditions are the same as those detailed for Example 1, as are the ratings
[0401] Results:
[0402] [Tableauxll] Test Resistance to dry friction Resistance to water friction Resistance to oil friction Test 3 +++ +++ +++ Test 4 +++ +++ +++
Claims
Claims
1. Method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, consisting in applying to the skin and / or lips a coating agent formed in situ or previously by interaction by hydrogen bonds of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon or silicone compounds, preferably non-ionic, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated; the method consisting in applying to the skin and / or lips, preferably to the lips: a) at least one composition (A) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X; and b) at least one composition (B) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two compounds Y; said compositions (A) and (B) being applied to the skin and / or lips, i) simultaneously;or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use; or iii) successively, regardless of the order of application.;
2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol X is chosen from catechol tannins, in particular chosen from gallotannins and ellagitannins.
3. Process according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract, in particular comprising at least 45% by weight of epigallocatechin relative to the weight of said extract.
4. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract.
5. Process according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyphenol X is tannic acid.
6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compounds Y have a molar mass greater than 200 g / mol, more particularly greater than 350 g / mol.
7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compounds Y are chosen from the compounds linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated silicones, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alcohols, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycols and glycerin, polyethylene glycols, Poloxamer, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated esters, polyoxyethylenated sorbitol or sorbitan esters and Polysorbates, polyoxyethylenated sugar ester and ether derivatives, polyoxyethylenated (poly)amines, as well as mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) Y is / are chosen from: - Non-ionic, linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units and / or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylenated units, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; non-ionic polydimethylsiloxanes with ester functions, polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units; as well as mixtures thereof; - Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of the R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH type, R representing a C8-C30 alkyl radical, o representing an average whole number ranging from 2 to 50; - Polyoxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alcohols of the type: R-(OC(CH3)H-CH2)o-(O-CH2-CH2)p-OH; R representing a C4-C30 alkyl radical, o and p, independently of one another, representing an average whole number ranging from 1 to 50; - Esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated in C6-C40, more particularly in C8-C30, or of vegetable oil derivatives, said esters being polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 200 oxyethylenated units; - Esters of sorbitan and carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, in C8-C30, polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units, and in particular Polysorbate, as well as their mixtures; - Polyoxyethylenated alkylamines; the C8-C30 alkyl group, the number of oxyethylenated units between 2 and 80 - Their mixtures.
9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of polyphenol X represents at least 2% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).
10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of compounds Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 75% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) and / or the composition (B) comprises water more particularly at a content greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of the composition (A) or (B).
12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) and / or the composition (B) comprises at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, more particularly at a content greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of the composition (A) or (B).
13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) and / or (B) comprises at least one oily phase, more particularly at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 10% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 20 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A) or (B).
14. Composition (composition (D)) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at least one polyphenol X as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 5, b) at least two compounds Y as defined according to any one of claims 1, 6 to 8, and c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition, of at least one mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, more particularly comprising from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol.
15. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the polyphenol X content is at least 2% by weight, preferably between 3 and 30% by weight, and even more particularly from 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).
16. Composition according to any one of claims 14 or 15, characterized in that the content of compounds Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% and preferably between 5 and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).
17. Composition according to any one of claims 14 to 16, characterized in that the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compounds Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.
18. Composition according to any one of claims 14 to 17, characterized in that the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol is between 25 and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30 and 85% by weight and even more particularly between 35 and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).
19. Composition according to any one of claims 14 to 18, characterized in that the composition comprises at least water, more particularly in a content less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
20. Composition according to any one of claims 14 to 19, characterized in that it comprises an oily phase, more particularly at a content of between 1 and 60% by weight, preferably between 1 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
21. Composition according to any one of claims 14 to 20, characterized in that the composition comprises an oily phase comprising at least one volatile silicone oil.
22. Composition according to any one of claims 14 to 21, characterized in that the composition comprises an oily phase comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, at a content less than or equal to 8% by weight and even more precisely less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
23. Method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, consisting of applying to the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, at least one composition (D) according to any one of claims 14 to 22.
24. Process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, according to any one of claims 1 to 13 and 23, characterized in that the composition (A), (B) and / or (D) comprises at least one synthetic, natural or naturally derived coloring matter; in particular chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
25. Method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, according to any one of claims 1 to 13 and 23, consisting of carrying out the following steps: 1) A composition (A) and a composition (B) are applied to the skin and / or lips i) simultaneously or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, regardless of the order of application; or a composition (D); at least one of the compositions applied or the applied composition comprising at least one coloring matter; 2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated.
26. Method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, according to any one of claims 1 to 13 and 23, consisting of carrying out the following steps: 1) A composition (M) comprising at least one coloring matter is applied to the skin and / or lips; 2) A composition (A) and a composition (B) are applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated, i) simultaneously or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, regardless of the order of application; or a composition (D).
27. Cosmetic makeup and / or care kit, comprising at least: a) a first composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5, 9, 11 to 13; and b) a second composition (B) as defined in any one of claims 1, 6 to 8, 10 to 13; said compositions (A) and (B) being packaged separately.