Cosmetic composition comprising at least 1% amino acids and at least 3% hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, and cosmetic processing method

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably for hair care, comprising at least 1% by weight of amino acid compounds and at least 3% by weight of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, particularly for washing and / or conditioning hair, using said composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising at least 1% amino acids and at least 3% hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, and cosmetic processing method

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for hair care, comprising one or more amino acid-type compounds and one or more carboxylic hydroxy acids, in specific proportions. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process using said composition.

[0002] Consumers worldwide are generally in contact with very diverse water sources which have an impact on hair, particularly on its cosmetic properties and / or the performance of hair products.

[0003] So-called mineral waters, for example, contain varying amounts of minerals present as dissolved ions, such as calcite (present as calcium), dolomite (present as calcium and magnesium), magnetite (present as iron), and chalcanthite (present as copper). So-called hard waters are also concentrated in minerals such as calcium and magnesium, while swimming pool waters are concentrated in copper salts from algaecides used in pool treatment.

[0004] Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and / or their metallic salts due to the presence on its surface of anionic groups, which correspond in particular to the sulfonic or carboxylic groups of keratin. Furthermore, the isoelectric point of hair is generally described as being between 3.2 and 4. Consequently, in everyday life, the pH of the water applied to the hair is higher than these values, resulting in a negatively charged hair fiber.

[0005] Minerals, often polyvalent cations, are thus attracted to and captured by this negatively charged fiber, forming chemical bonds that prevent their release through conventional hair treatment processes. This results in a possible accumulation of minerals on the hair over time. Such fixation depends not only on the water hardness, the frequency and / or duration of the hair's exposure to the water in question, but also on the nature and length of the hair (particularly its porosity and charge) as well as its state of damage.

[0006] The accumulation of these minerals and / or their metallic salts can lead to changes in the hair fiber and, in particular, a more or less marked alteration of the hair's cosmetic properties. For example, an accumulation of calcium and Magnesium can lead to dry, dull hair, while a buildup of copper can lead to greening of the hair.

[0007] In addition, the accumulation of metallic salts (iron, copper, for example) can accelerate damage to hair because they catalyze redox reactions and generate hydroxyl radicals HO° which can be harmful to the keratin fiber, even at low levels.

[0008] This can result in photo-degradation of the fiber, lightening of the fiber, as well as an alteration of the properties of the hair, which can lead to premature breakage of the hair; these phenomena are particularly observed during the subsequent use of lightening products or coloring products.

[0009] In other words, hair can become less resistant, weaker, or even break more easily, or lose its shine, due to the accumulation of minerals and / or their metallic salts.

[0010] There is therefore a real need for compositions that can combat the accumulation of metallic ions from minerals and metallic salts dissolved in water, or even allow them to be extracted from keratin fibers, in order to limit their negative impacts and overcome all the disadvantages mentioned above.

[0011] The composition which is the subject of the present invention, and its implementation, make it possible to achieve this goal.

[0012] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprising:

[0013] - one or more amino acid-type compounds, present in a total content of minus 1% by weight, compared to the total weight of the composition, and

[0014] - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 atoms of carbon, and / or their salts, present in a total content of at least 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] It has been observed that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the resistance to breakage of the hair, to strengthen the hair and also to significantly limit its reduction or loss of shine, undesirable effects that may be caused by the presence of metal ions, in particular copper or calcium, within said fibers.

[0016] After application of the composition, the fibers are as if reinforced, said reinforcement being improved with successive applications of the composition.

[0017] It has also been observed that the composition according to the invention further provides conditioning properties to the hair, in particular a smooth feel, softness, shine and easy detangling, while also adding strength, body and volume to the hair.

[0018] It finds a very particular application in the cosmetic treatment, in particular the washing and / or conditioning, of sensitized, weakened and / or damaged keratin fibers, in particular following physical (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatments, for example coloring, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0019] It is particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment, in particular the washing and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers loaded with metals, in particular with calcium and / or copper, at levels of at least 100 ppm, preferably at least 200 ppm; in particular loaded with copper, in particular at levels of at least 100 ppm, preferably at least 200 ppm and / or loaded with calcium, in particular at levels of at least 4,000 ppm, preferably at least 10,000 ppm.

[0020] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0021] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may be substituted for it. Amino acid-type compounds

[0022] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds.

[0023] For the purposes of this invention, an amino acid compound is defined as an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) being able to be intra-cyclic, possibly in the form of a salt.

[0024] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from amino acid compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (i.e., not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and / or their salts. These compounds are also called carboxylic amino acid compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0025] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid type compounds selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or their salts.

[0026] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to formula (I):

[0027] COOH H — C — N(H)P R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 links, preferably 5 links, this cycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0028] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 links, this cycle not being substituted.

[0029] Preferably, p=2.

[0030] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched saturated (Cl-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom - S- and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0031] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0032] Amino acid type compounds can also be a salt of compound of formula (I).

[0033] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium and zinc salts.

[0034] Amino acid type compounds can be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0035] By way of examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of configuration L, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine may be cited.

[0036] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

[0037] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0038] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

[0039] Examples of glycine salts according to the present invention include sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0040] Preferably, the amino acid type compound is glycine.

[0041] The total content of amino acid compound(s) present in the composition according to the invention is at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 1.2 to 7% by weight, or even from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] In particular, the total content of amino carboxylic acid type compound(s) in the composition according to the invention can range from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1.1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.2 to 7% by weight, or even from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Better still, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1.1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.2 to 7% by weight, or even from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] In particular, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) selected from glycine, its salts and their mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1.1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.2 to 7% by weight, or even from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Even better, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention can range from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1.1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.2 to 7% by weight, or even from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids

[0046] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0047] These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds previously described.

[0048] Said (poly)acids comprise at least one COOH group (in acidic or sal form); they may comprise several, in particular at least 2 COOH groups (in acidic or salified form), better 2 or 3 COOH groups (in acidic or salified form).

[0049] They also include at least one OH group, but may include several, in particular 2 to 3 OH groups.

[0050] Preferably, they comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated and linear.

[0051] Advantageously, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and from 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acidic or salt form).

[0052] Salts of these (poly)acids include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, and potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium, and zinc salts. Alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium salts.

[0053] Preferably, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids or their salts are chosen from among the alpha hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals; especially citric acid and / or tartaric acid and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate.

[0054] The total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention is at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 3 to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.5 to 8% by weight, preferably from 3.8 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention can range from 3 to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.5 to 8% by weight, preferably from 3.8 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids selected from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in the composition according to the invention can range from 3 to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.5 to 8% by weight, better from 3.8 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in the composition according to the invention can range from 3 to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.5 to 8% by weight, better from 3.8 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic polymers

[0058] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more cationic polymers.

[0059] The term "cationic polymer" means any non-siliconized polymer (not comprising silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0060] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0061] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charge per unit mass of polymer under conditions where the polymer is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the polymer structure is known, that is, the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportions. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0062] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) between approximately 500 and 5.106, preferably between approximately 103 and 3.106.

[0063] The cationic polymers that may be used are preferably non-associative.

[0064] Among the cationic polymers that could be used, the following may be mentioned:

[0065] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylics and containing at least one of the following formula motifs:

[0066] in which:

[0067] - R3, identical or different, designate a hydrogen atony or a CH3 radical;

[0068] - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0069] - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0070] - RI and R2, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

[0071] - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as an anion methosulfate or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0072] The copolymers of family (1) may further contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

[0073] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can mention:

[0074] - copolymers of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,

[0075] - acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylam chloride copolymers onium, such as those sold under the name BINA QU AT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,

[0076] - acrylamide and methacryloyloxylated methosulfate copolymer thyltrimethylammonium, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,

[0077] - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quantified or not, such as products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or products named "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937";

[0078] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0079] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;

[0080] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers quantified, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,

[0081] - polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Cl-C4) salts trialkyl(Cl-C4)ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) can be used in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by CIBA. Alternatively, a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can be used.These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.

[0082] (2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and gums of cationic galactomannans.

[0083] Among cationic polysaccharides, particular examples include cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0084] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0085] We can mention in particular the polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the AMERCHOL Company.

[0086] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US patent 4131576; examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Particular examples include quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, cross-linked or not, the quaternizing agent being notably diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and particularly hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium

[0087] Among the commercial products meeting this definition, we can cite the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0088] As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, one can notably mention the polymer with INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-10.

[0089] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US patents 3589578 and 4031307; examples include cationic guar gums, especially those containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, particularly trimethylammonium. Examples include guar gums modified with a salt (for example, a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

[0090] Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl groups of the guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the hydroxyl groups of these guar gums are branched by trialkylammonium cationic groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups are particularly noteworthy. Even more preferably, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride can be used.

[0091] Examples include products with the INCI names "HYDRXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE" and "GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE". Such products are marketed, in particular, under the names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17, or JAGUAR C162 by the company Solvay.

[0092] Among the cationic polysaccharides that could be used, we can also mention the cationic derivatives of cassia gum, in particular those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, we can mention the product with the INCI name "CASSIA HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE".

[0093] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl motifs and alkylene divalent radicals or linear or branched chain hydroxyalkylene, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0094] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a reactive bifunctional compound with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides may be alkylated or, if they have one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.

[0095] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkoylenes Polyamines are derived from polycarboxylic acids followed by alkoxylation with bifunctional agents. An example is the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalcoyldialoylene triamine polymer, in which the alkyl group has 1 to 4 carbon atoms and is preferably methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Among these derivatives, the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4, or F8" by Sandoz are particularly noteworthy.

[0096] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being made to react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably being between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.

[0097] (7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers having as their main chain constituent motifs corresponding to formulas (I) or (II): (CH2)kz(CH2)k ^CH.X----CR XC(Rr}-CH.- -(CH2M--CR„ C(R<>CH2- 'rr * i - i_ H,C ^ CH2 H2C CH. (t) y üf) J R, / Rn RiS

[0098] in which

[0099] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

[0100] - R12 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0101] - RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, designate an alkyl group in C1-C6, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a Cl-C4 amidoalkyl group; or RIO and RI 1 may jointly designate, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, preferably designate a C1-C4 alkyl group;

[0102] - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

[0103] We can cite more particularly the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-6) for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-7), marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".

[0104] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring motifs of formula: r --— (R

[0105] in which:

[0106] - R13, R14, R15 and R16, whether identical or different, represent radicals aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic compounds comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals,

[0107] or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles possibly comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen

[0108] or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0109] - Al and B1 represent polymethylene divalent groups comprising of 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

[0110] - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

[0111] it being understood that Al,R13 andR15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;

[0112] Furthermore, if Al designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also designate a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- group, with n and p, identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D designating:

[0113] a) a glycol remnant of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0114] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

[0115] c) a bis-primary diamine remnant of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a radical linear or branched hydrocarbon, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2

[0116] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0117] Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.

[0118] One can cite in particular polymers which are made up of recurring motifs conforming to the formula: RR neither; --NiCH^-N-CCHA — (IV) 1 1 x- R, x R,

[0119] in which RI, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0120] A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that for which RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, designated Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

[0121] (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising formula motifs (V): — N+ - (CH,) - NH- CO - (CH j - CO - NH ■ (CH.,)- - N+ - A — X- l 4 I (V) HAS-

[0122] in which:

[0123] - R18, R19, R20 and R21, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0124] - r and s, whether identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

[0125] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0126] - X- denotes an anion such as a halide,

[0127] - A denotes a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2- CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0128] Examples include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol ® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.

[0129] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF

[0130] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

[0131] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:

[0132] (a) one or more motifs corresponding to the following formula (A): —CH,—CH — I HH, <A)

[0133] (b) optionally one or more motifs corresponding to the following formula (B): —CH2—CH— (B) NH —CH II O

[0134] In other words, these polymers can in particular be chosen from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and possibly one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide.

[0135] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, 5 to 100% by mole of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95% by mole of motifs corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100% by mole of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90% by mole of motifs corresponding to formula (B).

[0136] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in acidic or basic media.

[0137] The average molecular mass by weight of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.

[0138] Polymers comprising motifs of formula (A) and possibly motifs of formula (B) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.

[0139] Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from among, alone or in mixture, cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses such as POLYQUATERNIUM -10; cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; and mixtures thereof.

[0140] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic polysaccharides

[0142] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more non-ionic polysaccharides.

[0143] Non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably selected from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, starches, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers or esters.

[0144] These polymers can be modified by physical or chemical means. Physical treatment may be indicated by temperature; and chemical treatment may be indicated by esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions, insofar as these treatments lead to non-ionic polymers.

[0145] Examples of galactomannans that may be used include non-ionic guar gums that can be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0146] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum in order to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0147] The degree of hydroxyalkylation varies preferably from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0148] Such non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60, JAGUAR HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0149] The starch molecules usable in the present invention may be of botanical origin from cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are, for example, selected from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches. The starches may be modified chemically or physically, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatments.

[0150] Starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch, such as maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0151] Non-ionic polysaccharides can also be cellulosic polymers not having a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.

[0152] According to the invention, the term “cellulosic polymer” means any polysaccharide compound having chains of glucose residues in its structure joined by [3-1,4] bonds; cellulosic polymers can be unsubstituted celluloses, and / or derivatives of non-ionic celluloses.

[0153] Thus, the cellulosic polymers usable according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulosic polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ester-ethers.

[0154] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers, examples include (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl ethylcelluloses (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl methylcelluloses.

[0155] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; and even better from, alone or in mixture, non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; and / or celluloses, substituted or unsubstituted, and cellulose ethers such as (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses.

[0156] Preferably, non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or in mixture, non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl (INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR).

[0157] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] When present, the composition according to the invention may include the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) selected from celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers, and mixtures thereof, in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic polymers and one or more polysaccharides non-ionic; in particular one or more cationic polysaccharides and one or more non-ionic polysaccharides; even better one or more cationic polysaccharides selected from cationic guar gums and cationic celluloses, and one or more non-ionic guar gums. Non-ionic surfactants

[0160] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0161] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures:

[0162] - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols;

[0163] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerol-based, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;

[0164] - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated;

[0165] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

[0166] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol preferably oxygenated;

[0167] - fatty acid and sucrose esters,

[0168] - alkyl(poly)glycosides possibly oxyalkylated (0 to 10 motifs oxyalkylated) and which may include 1 to 15 glucose motifs,

[0169] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated;

[0170] - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates;

[0171] - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives;

[0172] - amine oxides.

[0173] The oxyalkylated motifs are more particularly oxyethylated, oxypropylated motifs, or their combination, preferably oxyethylated.

[0174] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide will preferably be 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50, better from 1 to 10.

[0175] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not include oxypropylene motifs.

[0176] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100, better from 2 to 50.

[0177] As examples of non-ionic glycerolated surfactants, preferred are C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol.

[0178] Examples include lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.

[0179] Among glycerol alcohols, C8 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, C1 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, and C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol are preferred in particular.

[0180] Non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants can in particular be represented by the following general formula: RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:

[0181] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, including 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, including 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0182] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0183] - G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0184] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,

[0185] - v denotes a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0186] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

[0187] - RI designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 with 18 carbon atoms,

[0188] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0189] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,

[0190] - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

[0191] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, of preference from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0192] The glucosidic linkages between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / C16-1,4-alkyl(poly)glucosides are particularly preferred, especially decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.

[0193] Among the commercial products, we can mention the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.

[0194] Preferably, alkyl C8 / C16-(poly)glycoside 1,4 is used, in particular in aqueous solution at 53%, such as those marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.

[0195] The non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0196] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxygenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide; they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains;

[0197] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50;

[0198] - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glycosides, optionally oxyalkylated, preferably of 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs;

[0199] - C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol;

[0200] - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated;

[0201] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

[0202] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated.

[0203] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from, alone or in mixture, the following:

[0204] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxygenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, in particular C10-C18;

[0205] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated, and

[0206] - alkyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably comprising from 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs.

[0207] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s) in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Cationic surfactants

[0208] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more cationic surfactants.

[0209] They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0210] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0211] - compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II): in which:

[0212] X is an anion in particular selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates;

[0213] the groups Ri to R4, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Ri to R4 designating an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0214] Aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. Aliphatic groups are, for example, selected from the following groups: alkyl groups in C1-C30, alkoxy groups in C1-C30, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), alkylamide groups in CrC3O, alkyl(C12-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(C12-C22)acetate, and hydroxyalkyl groups in C1-C30.

[0215] Among quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraalkylammonium salts such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts are preferred, in which the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, and stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium salts. such as those marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

[0216] In particular, the chloride, bromide or methylsulfate salts of these compounds are preferred.

[0217] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): 0? T .......N(R^”™CO—Rr | x VZ ' R < (III) in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms respectively.

[0218] Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a methyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0219] Such a product is marketed for example under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0220] - quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts in particular of formula (IV): (IV) in which

[0221] R9 designates an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly hydroxylated and / or possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

[0222] Rio is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (R9a)(R10a)(Riia)N-(CH2)3 group, with R9a, RiOa, Rna, Ru, R12, Rb and R14, identical or different, chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

[0223] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0224] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V): O - j (V) in which:

[0225] R15 is selected from the C1-C6 alkyl groups and the hydroxyalkyl groups or dihydroxyalkyls in Ci-C6;

[0226] Rie is chosen from the R19-C(O)- group; the R20 groups which are C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom,

[0227] Ri8 is chosen from the R21-C(O)- group; the R22 groups which are Ci-C6 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; the hydrogen atom;

[0228] R17, R19 and R2[, identical or different, are chosen from the groups C7-C2i hydrocarbons, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

[0229] r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

[0230] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0231] x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

[0232] X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic;

[0233] provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then Ri6 denotes R20 and that when z is 0 then R[8 denotes R22.

[0234] The alkyl groups R[5] may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R15 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0235] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0236] When Ri6 is a hydrocarbon R20 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0237] When R[8 is a hydrocarbon R22 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0238] Advantageously, Rn, Ri9 and R2B, identical or different, are chosen from Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0239] Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0240] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0241] Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0242] Anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide, or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with an ammonium ester group may be used. Anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0243] In particular, ammonium salts of formula (V) in which R[5] designates a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; Ri6 is chosen from the R19-C(O)- group, the methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon groups in Ci4-C22, the hydrogen atom; Ri8 is chosen from the group R21-C(O)- and the hydrogen atom; Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0244] Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0245] Examples include compounds of formula (V) such as salts (in particular chloride or methyl sulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.

[0246] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated with C10-C30 fatty acids or mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization with an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol.

[0247] Such compounds are marketed for example under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

[0248] The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

[0249] Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180 patents can also be used.

[0250] The behenoylhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

[0251] Preferably ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0252] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one usable ester function, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium salts are preferred.

[0253] The term “fatty amines” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylened, or their salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.

[0254] Preferably, the useful fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly) oxyalkylated.

[0255] Fatty amines include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can be selected from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0256] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0257] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0258] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly) oxyalkylated.

[0259] Among the useful fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may be made of amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR”N(R')2(VI) in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0260] Fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular that marketed by INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, the palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0261] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0262] The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), those of formula (VI), and mixtures thereof; better from those of formula (II) and / or formula (VI); even better from those of formula (II).

[0263] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) may be selected from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0264] Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0265] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic surfactant(s) in a total quantity of 0.1 to 15% by weight, better 0.2 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, better still 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty body

[0266] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more non-siliconized fats, which may be chosen from solid fats, liquid fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0267] The term “non-siliconized fat” means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds.

[0268] Solid fat means a fat having a melting point above 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0269] Advantageously, the solid fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0270] Solid fats can be selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0271] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolized. The solid fatty acids usable in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, acid Stearyl acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. These fatty acids are distinct from the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, previously described.

[0272] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R designating a linear alkyl group, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better 12 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from among saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, having from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0273] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0274] - myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);

[0275] - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

[0276] - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol);

[0277] - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

[0278] - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

[0279] - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

[0280] - ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

[0281] - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);

[0282] - myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0283] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl alcohol; preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetostearyl alcohol.

[0284] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0285] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0286] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0287] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0288] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0289] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0290] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and a microscopically homogeneous mixture can be formed, but upon lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0291] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0292] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, absolute flower waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0293] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in the C2 to C60 range, such as Microwax HW.

[0294] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0295] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba -50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0296] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0297] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0298] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; examples include carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by MICRO POWDERS.

[0299] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter, shea butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0300] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0301] Ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably conform to the following formula: RjCKûH —ÇH—CH2ORs

[0302] in which:

[0303] - RI designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from acids fatty acids in C14-C30, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in C16-C30;

[0304] - R2 designates a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl) group m or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0305] - R3 designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in position alpha, this group can be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in C1-C14;

[0306] it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in C15-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in C16-C30.

[0307] Preferably, ceramides are used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0308] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear group at C15.

[0309] Compounds can also be used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0310] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide, and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine should be used.

[0311] Examples of liquid fats that may be used include liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0312] The liquid fats have a melting point of 25°C or less, preferably 20°C or less, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Advantageously, the liquid fats are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0313] It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can include one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0314] Liquid hydrocarbons can be C6 to C18, and be linear, branched, possibly cyclic; they are preferably chosen from among the C8-C16 alkanes, in particular C10-C14. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0315] Liquid hydrocarbons can also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; examples include paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0316] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0317] Liquid fatty alcohols may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0318] Liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, may include in particular esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0319] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0320] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; oleate of isodecyl; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0321] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof shall be used.

[0322] Still within the framework of this variant, esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Cl to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26 can also be used.

[0323] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0324] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C22 range. It should be noted that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0325] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0326] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can include one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0327] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0328] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0329] In particular, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0330] One can cite as an example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0331] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0332] Preferably, the fats are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0333] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the fat or fats in a total quantity of 0.1 to 20% by weight, better 1 to 18% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight, better still 5 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional compounds

[0334] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, in particular at a concentration preferably from 50 to 95% by weight, for example from 55 to 90% by weight, in particular from 60 to 85% by weight, better from 65 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0335] The pH of the composition may be between 2.5 and 8, preferably between 3 and 7, or even between 4 and 6.

[0336] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more organic solvents, liquid at 25°C, 1 atm, preferably hydrophilic (soluble or miscible with water), which may be selected from C1-C6 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C2-C8 polyols, and C3-C7 polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent is selected from C2-C4 mono-, di-, or tri-diols. It may advantageously be selected from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, propane-1,2-diol (propylene glycol), and mixtures thereof.

[0337] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients, in particular selected from thickeners, Gelling agents, both distinct from non-ionic polysaccharides; sunscreens; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidizing bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct colorants; hair straightening agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; micas, pearlescent pigments, glitter; plasticizing or coalescing agents; pigments; fillers; perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents; silanes. Those skilled in the art shall ensure that the ingredients used in the composition, as well as their quantities, are chosen so as not to impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0338] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, may comprise:

[0339] - one or more amino acid-type compounds corresponding to formula (I) such as defined above, in which p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by an -S- heteroatom and / or possibly substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; better R represents a hydrogen atom;

[0340] preferably present in a total content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1.1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.2 to 7% by weight, or even from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0341] - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 4 to 6 atoms of carbon, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, and / or their salts, preferably present in a total content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better 3 to 10% by weight, in particular 3.5 to 8% by weight, better 3.8 to 6% by weight,

[0342] - optionally one or more cationic polysaccharides, in particular selected among celluloses and / or cationic galactomannan gums; preferably present in a total quantity of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0343] - optionally one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, in particular chosen from alone or in mixture, non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups; preferably present in a total quantity of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0344] - optionally one or more non-ionic surfactants; preferably present with a total content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention;

[0345] - optionally one or more cationic surfactants; preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.2 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0346] The cosmetic composition according to the invention finds particularly interesting application in the field of hair care, especially for cleansing and / or conditioning hair. Hair care compositions are preferably lotions, masks, or conditioners, but may also be in the form of a shampoo, particularly a conditioner, that can be rinsed out.

[0347] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed after being applied to keratinous materials, particularly hair. Rinsing with water, for example, may be optional after any application time. Preferably, it is rinsed after any application time.

[0348] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for hair, in particular for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the application to said fibers of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, followed preferably by rinsing, after a possible application time.

[0349] Preferably, it is a hair treatment process, in particular for washing and / or conditioning, of sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, or of hair charged with metallic ions, in particular copper and / or calcium.

[0350] In particular, it may be a cosmetic treatment process for strengthening hair, especially hair that is sensitized, weakened and / or damaged.

[0351] It can also be a process to limit the loss of shine in hair, especially hair that is sensitized, weakened and / or damaged.

[0352] Said process may also include at least two successive application steps, on hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, of a composition as defined above; this is referred to as a multi-application process.

[0353] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0354] In the following examples, all quantities are indicated, unless otherwise indicated, as a mass percentage of active material (g% MA) relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1

[0355] The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below (g% MA):

[0356] [Tables] Composition Al A2 CITRIC ACID 4.0 4.0 GLYCINE 1 1 COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 3.0 3.0 COCO-BETAINE 0.2 POLYQUATERNIUM-10 0.5 0.5 SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE 10.0 11.0 GLYCERIN 3 2 GLYCOL DISTEARATE 1 CARBOMER 0.2 PPG-5-CETETH-20 0.6 0.6 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.6 0.5 Preservatives Qs Qs Water Qs 100% Qs 100%

[0357] Composition A1 is presented in the form of an opalescent creamy shampoo and composition A2 in the form of a translucent shampoo; they can be advantageously used for cleaning hair.

[0358] The formulas generate a rich, creamy lather that is easy to distribute throughout the hair. After application, rinsing, and drying, the hair is strengthened, more resilient, and has a beautiful shine. Example 2

[0359] Compositions A3 according to the invention and comparative A'3 were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below (g% MA):

[0360] [Tables2] Composition A3 A'3 CITRIC ACID 5.0 ​​GLYCINE 2.5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 7.0 7.0 Behentrimonium chloride 3 3 DIMETHICONE 1 1 POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 1.5 GLYCERIN 1 1 Preservatives Qs Qs Water Qs 100% Qs 100%

[0361] Composition A3 is presented in the form of a cream which can advantageously be used as a mask, after shampooing, and rinsed off after a period of time of a few minutes.

[0362] This composition can be used for detangling hair, providing care and strength (body and mass effect).

[0363] The composition also exhibits hair-strengthening properties.

[0364] The strengthening is measured using the DSC technique. (i) preparation of the wicks

[0365] The measurements are carried out on strands that have been previously bleached manually and then treated five times according to the following protocol: the strand is washed with a neutral shampoo, then rinsed, 2g of the composition to be tested is applied per strand of hair of 5.7g, the treatment is left on for 5 minutes and then rinsed again, (ii) measurement method

[0366] Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) is known to those skilled in the art as a method for quantifying protein strengthening in the cortex of keratin fibers (Kinetics of the changes imparted to the main structural components of human hair by thermal treatment, https: / / doi.org / 10.1016Zj.tca.2018.01.014 & F.-J. Wortmann and H. Deutz, J. Appl. Polym Sci., 48, 137 (1993)). The principle of the test is to measure the protein denaturation temperature. It is widely recognized that the higher the protein denaturation temperature, the better the integrity of the cortex proteins, which reflects a reduction in fiber breakage.

[0367] The denaturation temperature is directly related to the binding density of keratin proteins present in the cortex. Thus, the lower the denaturation temperature, the lower the binding density of the proteins to each other. The disulfide bonds break and the cortex is damaged. A difference of 2°C is recognized by those skilled in the art as a significant change.

[0368] The apparatus used to perform the measurements is a TA Instruments DSC Q20 reference apparatus. This apparatus measures the energy flow during the heating of the sample. The temperature at which the energy flow is greatest represents the denaturation temperature. (iii) results

[0369] The results of the measurements of the denaturation temperature (Td) of each of the strands treated according to the protocol described above are summarized in the following table and correspond to the average of 3 measurements carried out per strand.

[0370] [Tables3] Td (°C) SD* Natural strand (before bleaching treatment) 153.31 1.36 Untreated bleached strand 138.73 0.75 Bleached strand treated 5 times with composition A3 161.55 0.45 Bleached strand treated 5 times with composition A'3 140.8 0.32

[0371] *SD = standard deviation

[0372] These results show that the use of the composition according to the invention increases the binding density of keratin proteins present in the cortex of treated hair, thus making it possible to repair damaged hair.

[0373] Moreover, the denaturation temperature for the strands treated according to the present invention is better than that measured for natural and undamaged hair, thus showing that the hair is repaired.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic composition, preferably for hair care, comprising: - one or more amino acid compounds present in a total content of 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the amino acid compounds being selected from glycine, its salts, in particular alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc, and mixtures thereof; - citric acid or its salts, in particular alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate, present in a total content of at least 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; - water at a concentration of 50 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - one or more cationic surfactants present in a total content of 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;- one or more non-ionic polysaccharides selected from non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl, present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and - one or more non-ionic surfactants present in a total content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the total content of amino acid type compound(s) ranges from 1.1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.2 to 7% by weight, or even from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate, is from 3 to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.5 to 8% by weight, better from 3.8 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic polymers, preferably selected from cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; and mixtures thereof; in particular in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-siliconized fats, preferably selected from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; in particular in a total quantity of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 18% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight, preferably 5 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A cosmetic treatment process, in particular for hair, in particular for washing and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the application to said fibers of a cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, followed preferably by rinsing, after a possible application time.

7. A method according to claim 6, for the hair treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, or hair charged with metallic ions, in particular copper and / or calcium.

8. A method according to any one of claims 6 or 7, for strengthening hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair and / or for limiting the loss of shine of hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair.