Hair treatment process for strengthening sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method for strengthening sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition comprising: - one or more amino acid type compounds, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Hair treatment method for strengthening sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method for strengthening sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, comprising the application to said hair of a cosmetic composition comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more particular hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids.

[0002] Consumers worldwide are generally in contact with very diverse water sources which have an impact on hair, particularly on its cosmetic properties and / or the performance of hair products.

[0003] So-called mineral waters, for example, contain varying amounts of minerals present as dissolved ions, such as calcite (present as calcium), dolomite (present as calcium and magnesium), magnetite (present as iron), and chalcanthite (present as copper). So-called hard waters are also concentrated in minerals such as calcium and magnesium, while swimming pool waters are concentrated in copper salts from algaecides used in pool treatment.

[0004] Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and / or their metallic salts due to the presence on its surface of anionic groups, which correspond in particular to the sulfonic or carboxylic groups of keratin. Furthermore, the isoelectric point of hair is generally described as being between 3.2 and 4. Consequently, in everyday life, the pH of the water applied to the hair is higher than these values, resulting in a negatively charged hair fiber.

[0005] Minerals, often polyvalent cations, are thus attracted to and captured by this negatively charged fiber, forming chemical bonds that prevent their release through conventional hair treatment processes. This results in a possible accumulation of minerals on the hair over time. Such fixation depends not only on the water hardness, the frequency and / or duration of the hair's exposure to the water in question, but also on the nature and length of the hair (particularly its porosity and charge) as well as its state of damage.

[0006] The accumulation of these minerals and / or their metallic salts can lead to changes in the hair fiber and, in particular, a more or less marked alteration of the hair's cosmetic properties. Thus, the accumulation of metallic salts (iron, copper, calcium, for example) can accelerate the damage caused to hair because they catalyze redox reactions and generate hydroxyl radicals (HO°) that can be harmful to the keratin fiber, even at low concentrations. This can result in photodegradation of the fiber, lightening of the fiber, and alteration of hair properties, potentially leading to premature breakage; these phenomena are particularly observed with the subsequent use of lightening or coloring products.

[0007] In other words, hair can become less resistant, weaker, or even break more easily, due to the accumulation of minerals and / or their metallic salts.

[0008] It is all the more important to combat this phenomenon when the hair is already sensitized, weakened and / or damaged by previous physical (repeated brushing) or chemical (coloring, perming, etc.) treatments.

[0009] There is therefore a real need for compositions that can combat the accumulation of metallic ions, from minerals and metallic salts dissolved in water, or even allow them to be extracted from keratin fibers, in order to limit their negative impacts and overcome all the disadvantages mentioned above, particularly on sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair.

[0010] This goal can be achieved through the implementation of the composition described below.

[0011] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic treatment process for strengthening sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, including the application to said hair of a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0012] - one or more amino acid-type compounds, present in a total content of minus 0.5% by weight compared to the total weight of the composition, and

[0013] - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 atoms of carbon, and / or their salts, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The process according to the invention is in particular a process for washing and / or conditioning sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair.

[0015] The process according to the invention is particularly suitable for sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, following physical (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatments, for example coloring, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0016] The process according to the invention is also particularly suitable for sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, loaded with metallic ions, in particular at levels of at least 100 ppm, better at least 200 ppm; in particular loaded with calcium, especially at levels of at least 4,000 ppm, better at least 10,000 ppm; and / or loaded with copper, in particular at levels of at least 100 ppm, better at least 200 ppm.

[0017] It has been observed that the use of the composition according to the invention makes it possible to significantly improve the resistance to breakage of the hair, and therefore to strengthen it; it also makes it possible to limit its reduction or loss of shine, these undesirable effects being likely to be caused by the presence of metallic ions, in particular copper and / or calcium, within the keratin fibers.

[0018] After application of the composition, the hair is as if strengthened, said strengthening being improved with successive applications of the composition.

[0019] It has also been observed that the process according to the invention further provides conditioning properties to the hair, including a smooth feel, softness, shine and easier detangling, while also providing strength, body and a mass effect to the hair.

[0020] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0021] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may be substituted for it. Amino acid-type compounds

[0022] The composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds.

[0023] For the purposes of this invention, an amino acid compound is defined as an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) being able to be intra-cyclic, possibly in the form of a salt.

[0024] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from amino acid compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (i.e., not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and / or their salts. These compounds are also called carboxylic amino acid compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0025] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid type compounds selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or their salts.

[0026] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to formula (I):

[0027] COOH H....... C ....... R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 links, preferably 5 links, this cycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -C0NH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0028] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 links, this cycle not being substituted.

[0029] Preferably, p=2.

[0030] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched saturated (Cl-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom - S- and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0031] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0032] Amino acid type compounds can also be a salt of compound of formula (I).

[0033] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium and zinc salts.

[0034] Amino acid type compounds can be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0035] By way of examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of configuration L, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine may be cited.

[0036] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

[0037] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0038] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

[0039] Examples of glycine salts according to the present invention include sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0040] Preferably, the amino acid type compound is glycine.

[0041] The total content of amino acid compound(s) present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.8 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] In particular, the total content of amino carboxylic acid type compound(s) in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Better still, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] In particular, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) selected from glycine, its salts and their mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Even better, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids

[0046] The composition used in the process according to the invention also includes one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0047] These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds previously described.

[0048] Said (poly)acids comprise at least one COOH group (in acid or salified form); they may comprise several, in particular at least 2 COOH groups (in acid or salified form), better 2 or 3 COOH groups (in acid or salified form).

[0049] They also include at least one OH group, but may include several, in particular 2 to 3 OH groups.

[0050] Preferably, they comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated and linear.

[0051] Advantageously, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and from 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acidic or salt form).

[0052] Salts of these (poly)acids include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, and potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium, and zinc salts. Alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium salts.

[0053] Preferably, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids or their salts are chosen from among the alpha hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals; especially citric acid and / or tartaric acid and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate.

[0054] The total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids selected from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Associative polymer

[0058] The composition used in the process according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more associative polymers. Preferably, the associative polymers are non-ionic.

[0059] For the purposes of the present invention, "polymer" means any compound resulting from the polycondensation polymerization or radical polymerization of monomers, at least one of which is other than an alkylene oxide and a monofunctional compound of formula RX, where R denotes an alkyl or alkenyl group in the form C10-C30, possibly hydroxylated, and X denotes a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxylated, or ester group. In particular, all compounds resulting solely from the simple condensation of an alkylene oxide with a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, a fatty amide, or a fatty amine are excluded.

[0060] For the purposes of the present invention, "associative polymer" means an amphiphilic polymer capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules. It generally comprises, in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.

[0061] The associative polymers according to the invention are polymers comprising at least one fatty chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and whose molecules are capable, in the formulation medium, of associating with each other or with molecules of other compounds. Preferably, the fatty chain has from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0062] A special case of associative polymers are amphiphilic polymers, that is to say polymers comprising one or more hydrophilic parts or groups which make them soluble in water and one or more hydrophobic areas or groups (comprising at least one fatty chain) by which the polymers interact and come together with each other or with other molecules.

[0063] The term "hydrophobic group" refers to a hydrocarbon chain group or polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, that may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N, S, or a perfluorinated or siliconized radical chain. When referring to a hydrocarbon group, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon hydrophobic group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol, or from a polyalkylated fatty alcohol such as steareth-100. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as polybutadiene.

[0064] For the purposes of this invention, "fatty chain" means an alkyl or alkenyl chain, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and even better from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0065] By "fatty" compound, such as for example a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, is meant in the context of the present invention, a compound comprising in its main chain at least one hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0066] Among anionic associative polymers, the following may be mentioned in particular:

[0067] - (A) those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif and at least one ether motif of fatty-chain allyl; and more particularly those: whose hydrophilic motif consists of an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly of a vinyl carboxylic acid, and especially of an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof; and whose fatty-chain allyl ether motif corresponds to the monomer with the following formula (!'): CH2=C(R')-CH2OBnR in which R' denotes H or CH3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n ranges from 0 to 100, and R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from among the alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, R' denotes H, n = 10, and R denotes a stearyl radical (Ci8).

[0068] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5 to 60% by weight of C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates, 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether of formula (!'), and 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is preferably a copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylene-bis-acrylamide.

[0069] Crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 OE) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10) are particularly preferred, especially that sold by BASF under the name SALCARE SC 80, which is a 30% aqueous emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10), with the INCI name Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer.

[0070] - (B) those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif of the carboxylic acid type unsaturated olefinic, and at least one hydrophobic motif of the alkyl ester type (Ci0-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acid.

[0071] Preferably, these polymers are chosen from those whose hydrophilic motif of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) following: ÇHj—C—C—OH (0) R] 6 in which Ri designates H, CH3 or C2H5, and whose hydrophobic motif of the alkyl ester type (Ci0-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to the monomer of formula (III) following: C—OR. nm 4.- j > f r2 0 in which R2 designates H, CH3 or C2H5, and R3 designates an alkyl radical in Cio-C3o, preferably in Ci2-C22.

[0072] Alkyl esters (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0073] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) (meth)acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of formula (III) described above and in which R2 designates H or CH3, R3 designates an alkyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally (iii) a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.

[0074] Among this type of anionic associative polymers, preference is given more particularly to those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 4 to 40% by weight of alkyl acrylate in C10-C3O, and 0 to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or to those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 1 to 4% by weight of alkyl acrylate in C10-C3O and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer such as those described above.

[0075] Examples include products sold by the company LUBRIZOL under the trade names PEMULEN TRI, PEMULEN TR2, CARBOPOL 1382, CARBOPOL ETD 2020, CARBOPOL ULTREZ 20, CARBOPOL ULTREZ 21, and INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and even more preferably PEMULEN TRI and CARBOPOL 1382.

[0076] - (C) maleic anhydride / α-olefin terpolymers in C30-C38 / alkyl maleate such that the C30-C38 maleic anhydride / α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer, in particular that sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608 by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES (INCI name: C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer).

[0077] - (D) acrylic terpolymers comprising (a) 20 to 70% by weight of an acid (a) carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation, (b) 20 to 80 wt% of a non-surfactant monomer with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation other than (a), and (c) 0.5 to 60 wt% of a nonionic monourethane that is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenic unsaturation monoisocyanate. An example is the methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (40 EO), particularly in a 25% aqueous dispersion such as the product VISCOPHOBE DB1000 sold by AMERCHOL (DOW CHEMICAL) with the INCI name Polyacrylate-3.

[0078] - (E) copolymers comprising among their monomers (i) a carboxylic acid α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation, such as acrylic or methacrylic acid, and (ii) an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid ester, in particular acrylic or methacrylic, and fatty alcohol in particular C8-C32 oxyalkylened, in particular comprising 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, in particular 4 to 50, or even 10 to 40 EO.

[0079] In particular, behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylates, comprising 10 to 40 EOs, in particular 18 to 30 EOs, can be cited as monomers.

[0080] Preferably these compounds also comprise as a monomer an ester of α,[3-monoethylenic] unsaturated carboxylic acid and C1-C4 alcohol, in particular a C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate.

[0081] Preferably, these copolymers comprise at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one C8-C32 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, oxyethylenated comprising 2 to 100 moles OE, in particular 4 to 50 OE, or even 10 to 40 OE.

[0082] By way of examples, we can cite ACULYN 22 sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or ACULYN 28 sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER sold by Lubrizol.

[0083] - (F) associative polymers comprising at least one unsaturated monomer ethylenic with a sulfonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.

[0084] Among polymers of this type, we can mention more specifically -crosslinked or noncrosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salt) units and 40 to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, as described in application EP-A-750899 -terpolymers comprising 10 to 90 mol% acrylamide motifs, 0.1 to 10 mol% AMPS motifs and 5 to 80 mol% n-(C6-C8)alkylacrylamide motifs, such as those described in US patent 5089578 - Copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, as well as copolymers of uncrosslinked and crosslinked AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide; - Copolymers composed of AMPS motifs and steareth-25 methacrylate motifs, such as ARISTOFLEX HMS# marketed by CLARIANT (INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer), or beheneth-25 methacrylate motifs, such as ARISTOFLEX HMB (INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) marketed by CLARIANT, or steareth-8 methacrylate, such as ARISTOFLEX SNC# from CLARIANT (INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-8 Methacrylate). copolymer).

[0085] - (G) associative polymers comprising at least one vinyllactam monomer and at least one carboxylic acid monomer with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation such as vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and C1-C20 alkyl methacrylate terpolymers, for example lauryl, such as that marketed by ISP under the name ACRYLIDONE® LM (INCI name VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer).

[0086] Among cationic associative polymers, the following may be mentioned: - (A') cationic associative polyurethanes, which can be represented by the following general formula (la): RX-(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L'-(P')p-X'-R' in which: R and R', whether identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; X and X', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function bearing or not a hydrophobic group, or the group L"; L, L' and L", identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate; P and P', identical or different, represent a group containing an amine function bearing or not a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusively, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusively and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusively, n, m, and p are each independently of the others between 0 and 1000 inclusively; the molecule contains at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

[0087] Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the R and R' groups at the ends of the chain.

[0088] A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (la) described above in which: R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X, X' each represent a group L”, n and p are integers that are inclusively between 1 and 1000 and L, L', L”, P, P', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

[0089] Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the formula (la) above in which: n=p=0 (the polymers do not have motifs derived from an amine monomer incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation), the protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions at the end of the chain, followed by the alkylation of the primary amine functions formed by hydrophobic group alkylating agents, i.e. compounds of type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q designates a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

[0090] Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the formula (la) above in which: R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' both independently represent a group containing a quaternary amine, n = p = 0, and L, L', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

[0091] The number-average molecular weight (Mn) of cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between inclusively 400 and 500,000, in particular between inclusively 1,000 and 400,000 and ideally between inclusively 1,000 and 300,000.

[0092] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group originates from a monofunctional compound.

[0093] By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0094] When X and / or X' denote a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and / or X' may represent one of the following formulas: for X for X' in which: R2 represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, with or without a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P; Ri and R3, identical or different, designate a linear or branched Ci-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P; A is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide, or a mesylate.

[0095] The groups L, L' and L" represent a group of formula in which: Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH- ; and R4 represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, with or without a saturated or unsaturated ring, an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P.

[0096] The groups P and P', comprising an amine function, can represent at least one of the following formulas: in which: R5 and R7 have the same meanings as R2 defined previously; R6, R8 and R9 have the same meanings as Ri and R3 defined previously; Rio represents an alkylene group, linear or branched, possibly unsaturated and which may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from N, O, S and P, and A is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as halide like chloride or bromide or mesylate.

[0097] As regards the meaning of Y, a hydrophilic group is understood to be a water-soluble group, whether polymeric or not.

[0098] By way of example, when not dealing with polymers, we can cite ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

[0099] When dealing with a hydrophilic polymer, examples include polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, and in particular poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0100] The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (la) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and various compounds possessing hydrogen-labile functions. The hydrogen-labile functions may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions, giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas, and polythioureas, respectively. The term "polyurethanes" in the present invention encompasses these three types of polymers. to know polyurethanes proper, polyureas and polythioureas as well as copolymers of these.

[0101] A first type of compound used in the preparation of polyurethane of formula (la) is a compound comprising at least one amine functional group. This compound may be multifunctional, but preferably it is difunctional, that is to say, according to a preferred embodiment, this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms attached, for example, to a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine, or thiol functional group. A mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds may also be used in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low.

[0102] As previously stated, this compound may comprise more than one amine functional group. It is then a polymer bearing a repetition of the amine functional group.

[0103] This type of compound can be represented by one of the following formulas: HZ-(P)n-ZH, or HZ-(P')p-ZH, in which Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

[0104] By way of example, we can cite N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

[0105] The second compound used in the preparation of polyurethane of formula (la) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula: O=C=N-R4-N=C=O in which R4 is defined above.

[0106] By way of example, we can cite methylenediphenyl-diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexanediisocyanate, isophoronediisocyanate, toluenediisocyanate, naphthalenediisocyanate, butanediisocyanate, hexanediisocyanate.

[0107] A third compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (la).

[0108] This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a labile hydrogen function, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.

[0109] By way of example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. When this compound has a polymer chain, it may be, for example, alpha-hydroxy hydrogenated polybutadiene.

[0110] The hydrophobic group of polyurethane of formula (la) can also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound having at least one tertiary amine motif. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced by the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

[0111] The cationic associative polyurethane may further comprise a hydrophilic sequence. This sequence is provided by a fourth type of compound used in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. Alternatively, a mixture may have a low percentage of the multifunctional compound.

[0112] The hydrogen-labile functions are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the ends of the chains by one of these hydrogen-labile functions.

[0113] By way of example, when not polymers are involved, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol can be cited.

[0114] When dealing with a hydrophilic polymer, examples include polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, and in particular poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0115] The hydrophilic group denoted Y in formula (la) is optional. Indeed, the quaternary or protonated amine motifs may be sufficient to provide the solubility or hydrodispersibility necessary for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.

[0116] Although the presence of a hydrophilic Y group is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes containing such a group are preferred.

[0117] - (B') quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular: - i) Quatmized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

[0118] - ii) the quantified hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

[0119] - iii) hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib): in which: R and R', identical or different, represent an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, linear or branched, in Ci-C30 preferably Ci-C20, such as methyl or dodecyl; and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide; and n, x and y, whether identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

[0120] The alkyl radicals carried by the celluloses i) or quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses ii) above preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably designate the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

[0121] Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains include QUATRISOFT LM 200#, marketed by AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL (INCI name Polyquaternium-24) and CRODACEL QM# (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride), CRODACEL QL# (alkyl in Ci2) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride) and CRODACEL QS# (alkyl in Cl8) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride) marketed by CRODA.

[0122] We can also mention hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide more preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride Cl,(CH3)3N+- and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl,(CH3)2(C12H25)N+-, This type of polymer is known under the trade names SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL with INCI name Poly quaternium-67.

[0123] More particularly, polymers of formula (Ib) are those whose viscosity is inclusively between 2000 and 3000 cPs. Preferably, the viscosity is inclusively between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, and SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.

[0124] - (C') cationic polyvinyllactams, in particular those comprising: - a) at least one vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type monomer; - b) at least one monomer of the following structures (le) or (Ile): + CH2-C(Rr)-CO-XH¥j-(CH2-CH2-O)-(CH^^^ R. (M z- - r3 CH~C(R1;)-CO-X-(Y)—(CH2-CH2-O)-(CH2-CH{R2)-O)-{Yr)q—N (UC) R4 in which: X denotes oxygen atony or an NR6 radical, RI and R6 designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, R2 designates a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, R3, R4 and R5 each independently designate a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (IIIc): ---(Y2)—(CH2-CH(R7)-O)— (Hic) in which: Y, Y1 and Y2 each designate, independently of each other, a linear or branched C2-C16 alkylene radical, R7 designates a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical. R8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical, p, q and r denote, independently of each other, either the value zero or the value 1, m and n denote, independently of each other, an integer from 0 to 100 inclusive, x denotes an integer ranging inclusively from 1 to 100, Z denotes an anionic counterion of organic or mineral acid, such as halide like chloride or bromide or mesylate; provided that: - at least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or R8 designates a linear or branched C9-C30 alkyl radical, - if m or n is not equal to zero, then q is equal to 1, - if m or n are equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0.

[0125] The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and can also be block polymers.

[0126] Preferably the counter-ion Z- of the monomers of formula (le) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ion, tosylate ion.

[0127] Preferably R3, R4 and R5 designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical.

[0128] More preferably, monomer b) is a monomer of formula (le) for which, preferably, m and n are equal to zero.

[0129] The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound with (IVc) structure: CH(R$)=C(R^- H—= O 2^S in which s denotes an integer from 3 to 6; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical and RIO denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, provided that at least one of the radicals R9 and RIO denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0130] Even more preferably, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

[0131] The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic.

[0132] By way of particularly preferred compounds, the following terpolymers may be mentioned, comprising at least: a)-a monomer of formula (IVc), b) - a monomer of formula (le) in which p=l, q=0, R3 and R4 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical and R5 denotes a linear or branched C9-C24 alkyl radical and c)-a monomer of formula (Ile) in which R3 and R4 designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Cl-C5 alkyl radical.

[0133] Even more preferably, terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40 to 95% monomer (a), 0.1 to 55% monomer (c) and 0.25 to 50% monomer (b) will be used. Such polymers are described in particular in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0134] Cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention include, in particular: - the terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamide tosylate, - the terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamide tosylate, - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate terpolymers or lauryldimethylmethacrylamide chloride.

[0135] The vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / lauryl dimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymer is notably offered by the company ISP under the names Styleze W10# or Styleze W20L# (INCI name Poly quaternium- 55).

[0136] The molecular weight (Mw) of cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20,000,000, more particularly between 200,000 and 2,000,000 and preferably between 400,000 and 800,000.

[0137] - (D') cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomers, and one or more associative vinyl monomers, as described in patent application WO2004 / 024779.

[0138] Among these polymers, we can mention in particular the products of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising: - a di(alkyl C1-C4)amino(alkyl C1-C6) methacrylate, - one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, - a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide motif), - a polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol 30 / 5 allyl ether, - a hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and - ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0139] Such a polymer is for example the compound marketed by the company LUBRIZOL under the name CARBOPOL AQUA CC# and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer.

[0140] Non-ionic associative polymers are preferably selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0141] (1) Cellulose modified by groups comprising at least one chain fatty, in particular alkyl in C8-C32, preferably in C14-C28; preferably among: - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular alkyl in C8-C32, preferably in C14-C28, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably in C8-C22, such as cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose marketed in particular under the reference NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (alkyls in C16) sold by Ashland, or the Polysurf 67CS product sold by Ashland, - Hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company AMERCHOL, - and their mixtures.

[0142] (2) Hydroxypropylguars modified by groups comprising at least a fatty chain, especially alkyl in C8-C32, better in C14-C28, such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (alkyl chain in C22) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18 (alkyl chain in CM) and RE205-1 (alkyl chain in C2o) sold by the company Solvay.

[0143] (3) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic chain monomers fats, particularly alkyl groups in the C8-C32 range, or better yet, C14-C28. Examples include: - the vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer, and in particular the ANTARON V216 or GANEX V216 products sold by the company ISP - the vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer, and in particular the ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 products sold by the company ISP

[0144] (4) Copolymers of methacrylates or alkyl acrylates in Ci-C6 and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular alkyl in C8-C32, better in C14-C28, such as for example the methyl acrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208.

[0145] (5) Copolymers of methacrylates or hydrophilic acrylates and monomers hydrophobics comprising at least one fatty chain, especially alkyl in C8-C32, better in C14-C28, such as for example polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0146] (6) Polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain both sequences hydrophilic, most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic chains alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.

[0147] (7) Ether aminoplast backbone polymers having at least one chain fats especially alkyl in C8-C32, better in C14-C28, such as the PURE THIX compounds offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE.

[0148] Preferably, the polyether polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains being able to be dangling chains or end chains of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or Several dangling chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may include a hydrocarbon chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

[0149] Polyurethane polyethers can be multi-sequenced, particularly in triblock form. The hydrophobic sequences can be at each end of the chain (e.g., a triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central sequence) or distributed both at the ends and throughout the chain (e.g., a multi-sequenced copolymer). These same polymers can also be in graft or star form.

[0150] Nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers can be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

[0151] By extension, non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers also include those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.

[0152] As examples of non-ionic, fat-chain polyurethane polyethers usable in the invention, one can also use Rhéolate 205® with a urea functional group sold by RHEOX, or Rhéolates® 208, 204, or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®. The ELFACOS T210® product with a Cl2-14 alkyl chain and the ELFACOS T212® product with a Cl8 alkyl chain from AKZO can also be mentioned. The DW 1206B® product from ROHM & HAAS, with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, offered at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

[0153] Solutions or dispersions of these polymers can also be used, particularly in water or in hydroalcoholic media. For example, RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278, and RHEOLATE® 244, sold by RHEOX, are examples of such polymers. DW 1206F and DW 1206J, offered by ROHM & HAAS, can also be used.

[0154] Polyurethane polyethers usable according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci. 271, 380.389 (1993).

[0155] More particularly, a polyurethane polyether is preferred, which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0156] Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names ACULYN 46® and ACULYN 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0157] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more non-ionic associative polymers, preferably chosen from polyether polyurethanes.

[0158] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] Preferably, the non-ionic associative polymer(s) are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0160] Preferably, the non-ionic associative polymer(s) selected from polyether polyurethanes are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicones

[0161] The composition used in the process according to the invention may optionally include one or more silicones, which may in particular be chosen from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0162] The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise one or more non-amine silicones, which may be solid or liquid, preferably liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), volatile or non-volatile.

[0163] The non-amine silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0164] Silicones are described in detail in particular in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press.

[0165] Volatile silicones may be selected from those having a boiling point between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), in particular from:

[0166] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as

[0167] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Examples include products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.

[0168] - dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type cyclocopolymers with structure chemical: ।—■ D—D'--D—0' —। CH. '--------------------------------1 CH, rr with D: —Si-O— with D': —Si-O — CH, CgHn

[0169] One example is "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

[0170] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds silicon derivatives, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0171] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0172] Other silicones falling within this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; one can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.

[0173] Among non-volatile silicones, one can cite, alone or in mixture, polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes having in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated groups.

[0174] Organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0175] Among organomodified silicones, organopolysiloxanes comprising:

[0176] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups comprising possibly C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 oils from UNION CARBIDE; or alkyl(Ci2)-methicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;

[0177] - thiol groups, such as products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE;

[0178] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;

[0179] - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with functional hydroxyalkyl;

[0180] - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in the US patent-A-4957732.

[0181] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, such as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255".

[0182] Silicones can also be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone). The following commercial products are examples of these polydialkylsiloxanes:

[0183] - SILBIONE® oils of series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0184] - the MIRASIL® series oils marketed by the RHODIA company;

[0185] - oils in the 200 series from DOW CORNING such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm2 / s;

[0186] - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

[0187] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups (CTFA: dimethiconol) such as the oils of the 48 series of the RHODIA company.

[0188] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also mention the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

[0189] Products more particularly usable according to the invention are mixtures such as:

[0190] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the DOW CORNING company.

[0191] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.105 to 5.10 2m2 / s at 25°C.

[0192] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can mention the products marketed under the following names:

[0193] - RHODIA's SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series;

[0194] - the oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;

[0195] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

[0196] - BAYER's PK series silicones such as product PK20;

[0197] - silicones from the PN, PH series of BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;

[0198] - certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0199] The non-amine silicones most particularly preferred according to the invention are the trimethylsiloxanes with terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

[0200] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more amino silicones.

[0201] Aminated silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium group.

[0202] Amino silicones that can be used according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1*105 to 1 m2 / s.

[0203] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:

[0204] A) polysiloxanes conforming to formula (I):

[0205] in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol;

[0206] B) Amino silicones conforming to formula (II):

[0207] R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a (II)

[0208] in which:

[0209] - G, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl in CrC8, for example methyl or alkoxy in CrC8, for example methoxy, - a, a' identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,

[0210] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0211] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, where n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0212] - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in where q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group, possibly quatemized, chosen from the groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A, in which R”, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a Ci-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0213] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (II) may be selected from:

[0214] (i) "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" silicones conforming to formula (III): L (ni)

[0215] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better from 50 to 150; n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

[0216] (ii) silicones of the following formula (IV):

[0217] in which:

[0218] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0219] - Rb R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical.

[0220] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0221] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0222] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol.

[0223] (iii) silicones of the following formula (V):

[0224] in which:

[0225] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0226] - Ri, R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, one at minus the Ri or R2 radicals designating an alkoxy radical.

[0227] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0228] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0229] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.

[0230] Commercial products containing structural (IV) or (V) silicones may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones with a structure different from the (IV) or (V) formulas. A product containing structural (IV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing structural (V) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing structural (XIV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

[0231] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use as an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any type, but preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The average number size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, particularly as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used with an average particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive), and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm. nm (including terminals). Thus, according to the invention, the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER can be used.

[0232] (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI): LJ m (vi)

[0233] in which:

[0234] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in a particular number from 50 to 150, where n represents a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m represents a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0235] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0236] The average molecular weight (Mw) of these amine-based silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone meeting this specification is, for example, DOW CORNING's XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION.

[0237] (v) silicones of the following formula (VII):

[0238] in which:

[0239] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in a particular number from 50 to 150, where n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0240] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0241] The average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone meeting this specification is, for example, DOW CORNING's DC2-8566 Amino Fluid.

[0242] C) Amino silicones conforming to formula (VIII):

[0243] in which:

[0244] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 atoms of carbon, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl;

[0245] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0246] - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate;

[0247] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;

[0248] and - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

[0249] D) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) R., OH r R, 1 .... A* ...... ,1.,,... .... § i, .... To. -- Aii vH (IX)

[0250] in which:

[0251] - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0252] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in Ci-Ci8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0253] - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a radical monovalent hydrocarbon having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;

[0254] - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate; and

[0255] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described for example in application EP-A-0530974; in particular, the silicone with INCI name QUATERNIUM 80 can be mentioned.

[0256] Silicones falling within this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names AB IL QU AT 3270, AB IL QU AT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474.

[0257] E) Amino silicones of formula (X): (X)

[0258] in which:

[0259] - Ri, R2, Ri and R4, whether identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0260] - R5 designates an alkyl radical in CrC4 or a hydroxyl group,

[0261] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0262] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0263] - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0264] F) multiblock polyoxyalkylened amine silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block comprising at least one amine group.

[0265] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:

[0266] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or else

[0267] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R' ' )-R' -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which:

[0268] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, plus particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0269] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, plus particularly between 5 and 30;

[0270] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0271] - R” is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0272] - R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denotes a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and

[0273] - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2- Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0274] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.

[0275] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0276] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g / mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g / mol. Examples include silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

[0277] G) Amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII):

[0278] in which:

[0279] - R, R' and R”, identical or different, denote an alkyl group in C1-C4 or a hydroxyl group,

[0280] - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and

[0281] - m and n are numbers such that the average molecular mass in weight of the The compound value is between 5000 and 500000. ÔÀ I J 7 (XII)

[0282] in which:

[0283] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably from 1 to 100;

[0284] - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, designate a group alkyl, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0285] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0286] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. We can mention in particular the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0287] Preferably, Ri and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; examples include dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; and preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0288] Preferably, in silicone of formula (XII), there is:

[0289] - x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;

[0290] - ranging from 1 to 100;

[0291] - A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; Preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0292] - Ri and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen especially from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0293] A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. An example is the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

[0294] H) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at one end of the chain or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): (XV)

[0295] In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 1000 and 55000. Examples of formula (XIV) amino silicones include products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin Etsu.

[0296] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 3000.

[0297] As an example of formula (XV) amine silicones, we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0298] In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 50000.

[0299] Examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI) include aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0300] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also include, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to the formula (XVIII) below: (xvm) ÇHj f rro-à---|o 0¾ L ÇHj Ê ÇHs —Si---O-----SSî —OR”' FI: R' ii II CH., N—x Yoh J I TO I / \ ...OH i V—i

[0301] in which:

[0302] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80;

[0303] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better between 1 and 10, and even better, between 1 and 5;

[0304] - R'”, identical or different, preferably identical, are alkyl radicals linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals optionally being substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH;

[0305] - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, specifically 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0306] - R' ' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, specifically from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0307] Preferably, the identical or different R's are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular, dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl radicals may be mentioned; preferably the identical or different Rs are chosen from among the saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C13, C14, Cl5, alone or in mixture, and preferably represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15.

[0308] Preferably, the R's” are identical.

[0309] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, preferably branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical.

[0310] Preferably, R'' is a linear alkylene divalent radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.

[0311] Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0312] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0313] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0314] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0315] - R' is a divalent alkylene radical having 2 to 5 carbon atoms,

[0316] - R” is a linear alkylene divalent radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0317] Even better, the composition may include one or more formula silicones (XVIII) in which:

[0318] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0319] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0320] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0321] - R' is a radical -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-, and

[0322] - R' ' is a radical -(CH2)2-.

[0323] A particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (INCI name). One example is the silicone marketed by DOW under the name "DOWSIL 8500 Conditioning agent".

[0324] Preferably, the amine silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture,

[0325] - amine silicones of formula (II), preferably those in which G denotes an alkyl in C1-C8 and a=a'=0; a silicone of formula (II) particularly preferred being aminopropyldimethicone, such as that marketed under the name X-22-9686 by SHIN ETSU;

[0326] - quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) above;

[0327] - the amino silicones of formula (XVIII) above, in particular those in where n is a number between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 5; R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R' is a -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical, and R” is a -(CH2)2- radical.

[0328] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may comprise the silicone(s) in a total content preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight, better from 0.5 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.6 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.7 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0329] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may comprise the amino silicone(s) in a total content preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight, better from 0.5 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.6 to 3% by weight, and even better from 0.7 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactants

[0330] The composition used in the process according to the invention may optionally include one or more cationic surfactants.

[0331] Said cationic surfactants are non-siliconized, that is to say they do not contain a Si-O group.

[0332] They are preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, or their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0333] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0334] - compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II): in which:

[0335] X is an anion in particular selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates;

[0336] the groups Ri to R4, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Ri to R4 designating an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0337] Aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. Aliphatic groups are, for example, selected from CrC3O alkyl groups, CrC3O alkoxy groups, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene groups, C3O-Ci alkylamide groups, C2-Ci2-C22 alkylamidoalkyl groups, C2-Ci2-C22 alkyl(C2-Ci2-C22)acetate groups, and C3O-Ci hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0338] Among quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraalkylammonium salts such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts are preferred, in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium, or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium salts such as those marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK.

[0339] In particular, the chloride, bromide or methylsulfate salts of these compounds are preferred.

[0340] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): WI —N(R^~™CO.......RJ \ / K ] C......C ' H, Hg s (III) in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms respectively.

[0341] Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a methyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0342] Such a product is marketed for example under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0343] - quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts in particular of formula (IV): (IV) in which

[0344] R9 designates an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly hydroxylated and / or possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

[0345] Rio is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (R9a)(RiOa)(Riia)N-(CH2)3 group, with R9a, RiOa, Rna, Ru, R12, Rb and R14, identical or different, selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

[0346] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0347] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V): (C^oir-R^ Cs. S 4$ f A- he R,—X (V) in which:

[0348] Rb is selected from among the Ci-C6 alkyl groups and the Ci-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

[0349] Rie is chosen from the R19-C(O)- group; the R20 groups which are C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom,

[0350] Ri8 is chosen from the R21-C(O)- group; the R22 groups which are Ci-C6 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; the hydrogen atom;

[0351] Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

[0352] r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

[0353] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0354] x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

[0355] X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic;

[0356] provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R[6 denotes R20 and that when z is 0 then R[8 denotes R22.

[0357] The alkyl groups R[5] may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R15 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0358] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0359] When R[6 is a hydrocarbon R20 group, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0360] When R[8 is a hydrocarbon R22 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0361] Advantageously, Rn, R[9 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from among the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly among the alkyl and alkenyl groups in Cn-C2i, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0362] Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0363] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0364] Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0365] Anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide, or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion with an ester function may be used. Anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0366] In particular, ammonium salts of formula (V) in which Ri5 designates a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; Ri6 is chosen from the R19-C(O)- group, the methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom; Ri8 is chosen from the group R21-C(O)- and the hydrogen atom; R17, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0367] Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0368] Examples include compounds of formula (V) such as salts (in particular chloride or methyl sulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.

[0369] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated with C10-C30 fatty acids or with C10-C30 fatty acid mixtures of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), the methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0370] Such compounds are marketed for example under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

[0371] The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

[0372] Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180 patents can also be used.

[0373] The behenoylhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

[0374] Preferably ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0375] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one usable ester function, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium salts are preferred.

[0376] The term “fatty amines” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylated, or their salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.

[0377] Preferably, the useful fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0378] Fatty amines include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can be selected from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0379] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0380] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0381] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0382] Among the useful fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR”N(R')2(VI) in which: - R represents a monovalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0383] Fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular that marketed by INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, the palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0384] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0385] The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; better still from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; even better from those of formula (II) above.

[0386] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) may be selected from salts such as chlorides, bromides, or methosulfates of tetraalkylammonium, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; the salts of dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0387] Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0388] When present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0389] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the total content of cationic surfactant(s) and the total content of amino acid-type compounds is greater than or equal to 1. Cationic polymers

[0390] The composition used in the process according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic polymers, other than the associative polymers described above. This or these cationic polymers are therefore non-associative.

[0391] The term "cationic polymer" means any non-siliconized polymer (not comprising silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups ionizable into anionic groups.

[0392] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0393] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charge per unit mass of polymer under conditions where the polymer is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the polymer structure is known, that is, the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportions. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0394] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) between approximately 500 and 5.106, preferably between approximately 103 and 3.106.

[0395] The cationic polymers that may be used are preferably non-associative.

[0396] Among the cationic polymers that could be used, the following may be mentioned:

[0397] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylics and containing at least one of the following formula motifs:

[0398] in which:

[0399] - R3, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

[0400] - A, identical or different, represent a linear or linear alkyl divalent group branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0401] - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0402] - RI and R2, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

[0403] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as an anion methosulfate or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0404] The copolymers of family (1) may further contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

[0405] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can mention:

[0406] - copolymers of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,

[0407] - acrylamide and chloride copolymers methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, such as those sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,

[0408] - the acrylamide and methosulfate copolymer methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,

[0409] - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quantified or not, such as products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or products named "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937";

[0410] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0411] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;

[0412] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers quantified products, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,

[0413] - polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Cl-C4) salts trialkyl(Cl-C4)ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) can be used in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by CIBA. Alternatively, a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can be used.These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.

[0414] (2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and gums of cationic galactomannans.

[0415] Among cationic polysaccharides, particular examples include cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0416] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0417] We can cite in particular the polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the AMERCHOL Company.

[0418] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described, in particular, in US patent 4131576; examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, crosslinked or not, are particularly noteworthy, the quaternizing agent being, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose is especially noteworthy.

[0419] Among the commercial products meeting this definition, we can cite the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0420] As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, one can notably mention the polymer with INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-10.

[0421] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US patents 3589578 and 4031307; examples include cationic guar gums, especially those containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, particularly trimethylammonium. Examples include guar gums modified with a salt (for example, a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

[0422] Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl groups of the guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the hydroxyl groups of these guar gums are branched by trialkylammonium cationic groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups are particularly noteworthy. Even more preferably, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride can be used.

[0423] Examples include products with the INCI names "HYDRXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE" and "GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE". Such products are marketed, in particular, under the names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Solvay.

[0424] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, cationic derivatives of cassia gum may also be mentioned, in particular those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, the product with the INCI name "CASSIA HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE" may be mentioned.

[0425] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl motifs and alkylene divalent radicals or linear or branched chain hydroxyalkylene, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0426] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a reactive bifunctional compound with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.

[0427] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkoylenes Polyamines are derived from polycarboxylic acids followed by alkoxylation with bifunctional agents. An example is the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalcoyldialoylene triamine polymer, in which the alkyl group has 1 to 4 carbon atoms and is preferably methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Among these derivatives, the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4, or F8" by Sandoz are particularly noteworthy.

[0428] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being made to react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably being between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are marketed in particular under the name "Hercosett 57" by Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylene-triamine copolymer.

[0429] (7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers having as their main chain constituent motifs corresponding to formulas (I) or (II): . ( CH ,)ky 2^ ---CR.. (0 y . 00 N

[0430] in which

[0431] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

[0432] - R12 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0433] - RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, designate an alkyl group in C1-C6, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a Cl-C4 amidoalkyl group; or RIO and RI 1 may jointly designate, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, preferably designate a C1-C4 alkyl group;

[0434] - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

[0435] We can cite more particularly the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-6) for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-7), marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".

[0436] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring motifs of formula: N+ - A. — N+— g — II ' Ru x“ X'

[0437] in which:

[0438] - R13, R14, R15 and R16, whether identical or different, represent radicals aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic compounds comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals in Cl-Cl2,

[0439] or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, form heterocycles possibly comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen

[0440] or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0441] - Al and B1 represent polymethylene divalent groups comprising of 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

[0442] - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

[0443] it being understood that Al, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;

[0444] Furthermore, if Al designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also designate a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- group, with n and p, identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D designating:

[0445] a) a glycol remnant of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0446] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

[0447] c) a bis-primary diamine remnant of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a radical linear or branched hydrocarbon, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;

[0448] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH- .

[0449] Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.

[0450] One can cite in particular polymers which are made up of recurring motifs conforming to the formula: R, R3 -hT(CHA-N^CCHA — I v ' 1 x- ' ■ R2 x R,

[0451] in which RI, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0452] A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that in which RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, designated Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

[0453] (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising formula units (V): ^18 lr — N+ - (CH?k - NH - CO - (CH J - CO - MH ' (CH,). - M+ - A — X- । — । Rts (V) HAS-

[0454] in which:

[0455] - R18, R19, R20 and R21, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0456] - r and s, whether identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

[0457] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0458] - X- denotes an anion such as a halide,

[0459] - A denotes a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2- CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0460] Examples include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.

[0461] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF

[0462] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

[0463] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:

[0464] (a) one or more patterns conforming to the following formula (A): —CH—CH NH2 W

[0465] (b) possibly one or more patterns corresponding to the following formula (B): CH.—CH " | (B) NH CH II O

[0466] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and possibly one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide.

[0467] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers having in their structure 5 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B).

[0468] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in acidic or basic media.

[0469] The average molecular mass by weight of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.

[0470] Polymers comprising motifs of formula (A) and possibly motifs of formula (B) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.

[0471] Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from, alone or in mixture, the polymers of family (1) and cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses such as POLYQUATERNIUM-10; cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; and mixtures thereof.

[0472] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, or even better 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0473] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic polysaccharides

[0474] The composition used in the process according to the invention may optionally include one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, other than the associative polymers described above. This or these non-ionic polysaccharides are therefore non-associative.

[0475] Non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably selected from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, starches, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers or esters.

[0476] These polymers can be modified by physical or chemical means. Physical treatment may be cited as an example; and chemical treatment may be cite esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions, insofar as these treatments lead to non-ionic polymers.

[0477] Examples of galactomannans that may be used include non-ionic guar gums that can be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0478] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum in order to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0479] The degree of hydroxyalkylation varies preferably from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0480] Such non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60, JAGUAR HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0481] The starch molecules usable in the present invention may have cereals or tubers as their botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches. The starches may be modified by chemical or physical route: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

[0482] Starch molecules can be derived from all plant starch sources, including maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0483] Non-ionic polysaccharides can also be cellulosic polymers without a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.

[0484] By "cellulosic" polymer, according to the invention, any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; cellulosic polymers can be unsubstituted celluloses, and / or derivatives of non-ionic celluloses.

[0485] Thus, the cellulosic polymers usable according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulosic polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ester-ethers.

[0486] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers, examples include (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl ethylcelluloses (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl methylcelluloses.

[0487] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; and even better from, alone or in mixture, non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; and / or celluloses, substituted or unsubstituted, and cellulose ethers such as (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alky celluloses.

[0488] Preferably, non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or in mixture, non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl (INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR).

[0489] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0490] When present, the composition according to the invention may include the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) selected from celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers, and mixtures thereof, in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0491] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic polymers and one or more non-ionic polysaccharides; in particular one or more cationic polysaccharides and one or more non-ionic polysaccharides; even better one or more cationic polysaccharides selected from cationic guar gums and cationic celluloses, and one or more non-ionic guar gums. Non-ionic surfactants

[0492] The composition used in the process according to the invention may optionally include one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0493] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures:

[0494] - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols;

[0495] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerol-based, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;

[0496] - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated;

[0497] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

[0498] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol preferably oxygenated;

[0499] - fatty acid and sucrose esters,

[0500] - alkyl(poly)glycosides possibly oxyalkylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylated motifs) and may include 1 to 15 glucose motifs,

[0501] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated;

[0502] - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates;

[0503] - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives;

[0504] - amine oxides.

[0505] The oxyalkylated motifs are more particularly oxyethylated, oxypropylated motifs, or their combination, preferably oxyethylated.

[0506] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol in particular ranges from 1 to 50, better from 1 to 10.

[0507] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene motifs.

[0508] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100, better from 2 to 50.

[0509] As examples of non-ionic glycerolated surfactants, preferred are C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol.

[0510] Examples include lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.

[0511] Among glycerol alcohols, C8 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, C1 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, and C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol are preferred in particular.

[0512] Non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants can in particular be represented by the following general formula: RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:

[0513] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, including 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, including 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0514] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0515] - G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0516] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,

[0517] - v denotes a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0518] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

[0519] - RI designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 with 18 carbon atoms,

[0520] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0521] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,

[0522] - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

[0523] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, of preference from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0524] The glycosidic linkages between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / C16-1,4-alkyl(poly)glucosides are particularly preferred, especially decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.

[0525] Among the commercial products, we can mention the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.

[0526] Preferably, alkyl C8 / C16-(poly)glycoside 1,4 is used, in particular in aqueous solution at 53%, such as those marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.

[0527] The non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0528] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxygenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide; they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains;

[0529] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50;

[0530] - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glycosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably of 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs;

[0531] - C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol;

[0532] - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated;

[0533] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

[0534] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated.

[0535] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from, alone or in mixture, the following:

[0536] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxygenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one alkyl chain in C8-C20, in particular in C10-C18;

[0537] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated, and

[0538] - alkyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably comprising from 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs.

[0539] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s) in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Fatty body

[0540] The composition used in the process according to the invention may optionally include one or more non-siliconized fats, which may be chosen from solid fats, liquid fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0541] The term “non-siliconized fat” means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds.

[0542] Solid fat means a fat having a melting point above 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0543] Advantageously, the solid fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0544] Solid fats can be selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0545] By "fatty acids," we mean a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolized. The solid fatty acids usable in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and their mixtures. These fatty acids are different from the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms previously described.

[0546] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R designating a linear alkyl group, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better 12 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from among saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, having from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0547] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0548] - myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);

[0549] - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

[0550] - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol);

[0551] - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

[0552] - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

[0553] - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

[0554] - ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

[0555] - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);

[0556] - myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0557] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl alcohol; preferably, cetostearyl alcohol.

[0558] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0559] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are saturated carboxylic acid esters, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably of 10 with 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly with 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated monoalcohol, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably with 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly with 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0560] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0561] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0562] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0563] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0564] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0565] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0566] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, absolute flower waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0567] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C2 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

[0568] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0569] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0570] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0571] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0572] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; examples include carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS, and microwaxes made from a mixture carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by MICRO POWDERS.

[0573] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter, shea butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0574] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0575] Ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably conform to the following formula: Oh oh """ OH'""" ch > ORx i

[0576] in which:

[0577] - RI designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from acids fatty acids in C14-C30, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in C16-C30;

[0578] - R2 designates a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a group (galactosyl)m or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0579] - R3 designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in position alpha, this group can be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in C1-C14;

[0580] it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in C15-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in C16-C30.

[0581] Preferably, ceramides are used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0582] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear group at C15.

[0583] Compounds may also be used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0584] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine; 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol; N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine; N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine; and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine; N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine; cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide; and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine shall be used.

[0585] Examples of liquid fats that may be used include liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0586] The liquid fats have a melting point of 25°C or less, preferably 20°C or less, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Advantageously, the liquid fats are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0587] It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0588] Liquid hydrocarbons can be C6 to C18, and be linear, branched, possibly cyclic; they are preferably chosen from C8-C16 alkanes, particularly in C10-C14. As an example, we can mention hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and their mixtures.

[0589] Liquid hydrocarbons can also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; examples include paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0590] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0591] Liquid fatty alcohols may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0592] Liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, may include in particular esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0593] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0594] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate and 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such that isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0595] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof shall be used.

[0596] Still within the framework of this variant, esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Cl to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26 can also be used.

[0597] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0598] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C22 range. It should be noted that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0599] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0600] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the range of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0601] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0602] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0603] In particular, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0604] One can cite as an example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0605] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0606] Preferably, the fats are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0607] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the fat or fats in a total quantity of 0.1 to 20% by weight, better 1 to 18% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight, better still 5 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional compounds

[0608] The composition used in the process according to the invention advantageously comprises water, in particular at a concentration preferably from 50 to 95% by weight, for example from 55 to 90% by weight, in particular from 60 to 85% by weight, better from 65 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0609] The pH of the composition may be between 2.5 and 8, preferably between 3 and 7, or even between 4 and 6.

[0610] The composition used in the process according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more organic solvents, liquid at 25°C, 1 atm, preferably hydrophilic (soluble or miscible with water), which may be selected from C1-C6 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C2-C8 polyols, and C3-C7 polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent is selected from C2-C4 mono-, di-, or tri-diols. It may advantageously be selected from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, propane-1,2-diol (propylene glycol), and mixtures thereof.

[0611] The composition used in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients, in particular selected from thickeners, gelling agents, both different from the polymers described above; sunscreens; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidizing bases, couplers, agents oxidants, direct dyes; straightening agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; micas, mother-of-pearl, glitter; plasticizing or coalescing agents; pigments; fillers; perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents; silanes. A person skilled in the art shall take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, so that they do not impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0612] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition used in the process according to the invention may comprise:

[0613] - one or more amino acid-type compounds corresponding to formula (I) such as defined above, in which p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by an -S- heteroatom and / or possibly substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; better R represents a hydrogen atom;

[0614] preferably present in a total content of 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.7 to 8% by weight, better 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0615] - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 4 to 6 atoms of carbon, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, and / or their salts, preferably present in a total content of 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular 1 to 8% by weight, better 1.5 to 6% by weight,

[0616] - optionally one or more associative polymers, preferably non-ionic, better chosen from among polyether polyurethanes;

[0617] preferably present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0618] - optionally one or more silicones, preferably chosen from the amino silicones,

[0619] preferably present in a total content of 0.3 to 5% by weight, better of 0.5 to 4% by weight, preferably of 0.6 to 3% by weight, and more preferably of 0.7 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0620] - optionally one or more cationic surfactants preferably chosen among those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and their mixtures, better among those of formula (II) and / or those of formula (VI) above;

[0621] preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0622] - optionally one or more cationic polysaccharides, in particular selected among celluloses and / or cationic galactomannan gums; preferably present in a total quantity of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0623] - optionally one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, in particular chosen from alone or in mixture, non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups; preferably present in a total quantity of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0624] - optionally one or more non-ionic surfactants; preferably present in a content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0625] The cosmetic composition used in the process according to the invention may in particular be in the form of a lotion, mask or conditioner, to be rinsed or not, as well as in the form of a shampoo, in particular a conditioner, capable of being rinsed, or a pre-shampoo, to be rinsed or not before application of a shampoo.

[0626] The step of applying the cosmetic composition described above to the hair may be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water or with shampoo, after a possible waiting period.

[0627] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0628] In the following examples, all quantities are given, unless otherwise indicated, as a mass percentage of active material (g% MA) relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1

[0629] The following compositions A according to the invention and comparative A' were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below (g% MA):

[0630] [Tables 1] Composition A A' CITRIC ACID 2.0 GLYCINE 1 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 3 3 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR 0.15 0.15 AMINOPROPYL DIMETHICONE 0.4 0.4 BIS(C13-15 ALKOXY) PG-AMODIMETHICONE 0.3 0.3 PEG-150 / DECYL ALCOHOL / SMDI COPOLYMER 0.15 0.15 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 0.5 0.5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 7 7 CETYL ESTERS 1.5 1.5 ISODODECANE 0.4 0.4 ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 0.7 0.7 GLYCERIN 1 1 POLYQUATERNIUM-37 0.1 0.1 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 0.2 0.2 STEARETH-100 0.25 0.25 Preservatives Qs Qs Water Qsp 100% Qsp 100%

[0631] Composition A is presented in the form of a cream and can advantageously be used as a rinse-off treatment before or after shampooing. This composition can be used for detangling hair, providing conditioning, shine, and strength (slightly less suppleness than conventional body care treatments, and a mass-building effect).

[0632] Composition A was tested as a rinse-out conditioner by consumers with damaged hair. From the first use, they found their hair soft, moisturized and shinier; it was also judged to be stronger and less prone to breakage.

[0633] The reinforcement is measured using the DSC technique. (i) preparation of the wicks

[0634] The measurements are carried out on strands that have been previously bleached manually and then treated five (or ten) times according to the following protocol: the strand is washed with a neutral shampoo, then rinsed, and 2g of the composition to be tested is applied per For a 5.7g strand of hair, leave the treatment on for 5 minutes and then rinse again. (ii) measurement method

[0635] Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) is known to those skilled in the art as a method for quantifying protein strengthening in the cortex of keratin fibers (Kinetics of the changes imparted to the main structural components of human hair by thermal treatment, F.-J. Wortmann and H. Deutz, J. Appl. Polym Sci., 48, 137 (1993)). The principle of the test is to measure the protein denaturation temperature. It is widely recognized that the higher the protein denaturation temperature, the better the integrity of the cortex proteins, which reflects a reduction in fiber breakage.

[0636] The denaturation temperature is directly related to the binding density of keratin proteins present in the cortex. Thus, the lower the denaturation temperature, the lower the binding density of the proteins to each other, the more disulfide bonds break, and the cortex is damaged. A difference of 2°C is recognized by those skilled in the art as a significant change.

[0637] The apparatus used to perform the measurements is a TA Instruments DSC Q20 reference apparatus. This apparatus measures the energy flow during the heating of the sample. The temperature at which the energy flow is greatest represents the denaturation temperature. (iii) results

[0638] The results of the measurements of the denaturation temperature (Td) of each of the strands treated according to the protocol described above are summarized in the following table and correspond to the average of 3 measurements carried out per strand.

[0639] [Tables2] Td (°C) Standard deviation Natural strand (before bleaching treatment) 153.31 1.36 Untreated bleached strand 138.73 0.75 Bleached strand treated 5 times with composition A 155.80 0.17 Bleached strand treated 5 times with composition A' 142.12 0.41 Bleached strand treated 10 times with composition A 162.55 0.34 Bleached strand treated 10 times with composition A' 146.42 0.19

[0640] These results show that the use of the composition according to the invention increases the binding density of keratin proteins present in the cortex of treated hair, thus making it possible to repair damaged hair.

[0641] Moreover, the denaturation temperature for the strands treated according to the present invention is better than that measured for natural and undamaged hair, thus showing that the hair is repaired. Example 2

[0642] The composition according to the following invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below (g% MA):

[0643] [Tables4] Composition B CITRIC ACID 3.0 GLYCINE 5 CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 0.5 QUATERNIUM-80 0.4 HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN 1 GLYCERIN 15 PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 0.8 POLYSORBATE 20 0.8 POLYSORBATE 80 0.8 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 5 Preservatives Qs Water Qsp 100%

[0644] The composition is presented in the form of a lotion and can advantageously be used without rinsing before or after shampooing and before the use of a mask or conditioner without rinsing.

[0645] This composition can be used for detangling hair, providing care, shine and strength (body and mass effect).

[0646] Hair is soft, hydrated and shinier; it is considered stronger and less prone to breakage. The composition therefore has hair-strengthening properties.

[0647] The reinforcement is measured by DSC, according to the method described above.

[0648] The measurements are carried out on strands that have been previously bleached manually and then treated five (or ten) times according to the following protocol: the strand is washed with a conventional neutral shampoo, then rinsed, 2g of the composition according to the invention is applied per strand of hair weighing 5.7g, then, without rinsing, 2g of a classic hair mask, leave the mask on for 5 minutes then rinse again.

[0649] This routine according to the invention is compared to the following comparative routine (without application of the composition of the invention): the strand is washed with a classic neutral shampoo, then rinsed, 2g of a classic hair mask is applied (the same as in the routine according to the invention), left on for 5 minutes then rinsed again.

[0650] The following results are obtained (average of 3 measurements per strand):

[0651] [Tables5] Td (°C) Standard deviation Natural strand (before bleaching treatment) 153.31 1.36 Untreated bleached strand 138.73 0.75 Bleached strand treated 5 times with the invention routine 159.7 1.40 Bleached strand treated 5 times with the comparative routine 140.8 0.32

[0652] These results show that the use of the composition according to the invention increases the binding density of keratin proteins present in the cortex of treated hair, thus making it possible to repair damaged hair.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic treatment process for strengthening sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, comprising the application to said hair of a cosmetic composition comprising: - one or more amino acid compounds, present in a total content of 0.7 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - citric acid or its salts, present in a total content of 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and - one or more cationic surfactants.

2. A process according to the preceding claim, wherein the amino acid-type compounds are selected from compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or their salts, in particular alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc: COOH H Ç N(HV R) in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably 5 members, this cycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by a or several groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2;preferably from compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or their salts, in which p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a (CrC4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by a heteroatom -S- and / or possibly substituted by one or two groups selected from; hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; better p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

3. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amino acid type compound(s) are selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from glycine, its salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc, and mixtures thereof.

4. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of amino acid compound(s) ranges from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better from 0.8 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising citric acid or its salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate.

6. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of citric acid or its salts is from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises one or more associative polymers, preferably non-ionic, preferably selected from polyether polyurethanes; in particular in a total content of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises one or more silicones, preferably selected from among the amino silicones; in particular in a total content of 0.3 to 5% by weight, better of 0.5 to 4% by weight, preferably of 0.6 to 3% by weight, and more preferably of 0.7 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants in a total amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, better 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises one or more cationic polymers, preferably selected from cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; and mixtures thereof; in particular in a total amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises one or more nonionic polysaccharides, in particular selected from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, galactomannans, and their nonionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; preferably from, alone or in mixture, nonionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl and / or celluloses, substituted or unsubstituted, and cellulose ethers such as (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses; preferably selected from, alone or in mixture, nonionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; preferably in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants, in particular in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

13. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises one or more non-siliconized fats, preferably selected from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; in particular in a total quantity of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 18% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight, even better 5 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the step of applying the cosmetic composition to the hair is followed by a rinsing step, for example with water or with shampoo, after a possible application time.

15. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, for the hair treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of hair loaded with calcium (more than 4000 ppm, better more than 10,000 ppm).