Cosmetic compositions and their use for skin lightening and preventing and / or reducing pigmentation spots

Abstract

The present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions useful for lightening keratinous materials, in particular skin, especially useful for reducing and / or eliminating pigment spots.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic compositions and their use for skin lightening and preventing and / or reducing pigmentation spots technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions useful for lightening keratinous materials, particularly skin, and especially useful for reducing and eliminating pigment spots and skin blemishes. The invention also relates to a skincare method for lightening the skin and reducing and / or eliminating pigment spots. Prior art

[0002] Melanin is a pigment responsible for the coloration of skin and hair in humans. Melanogenesis is the process by which special dendritic cells, melanocytes, located beneath or between the basal cells of the epidermis, produce melanin. The melanin generated in the melanocytes is then transferred to the keratinocytes, which are the outermost cells of the skin.

[0003] While melanin plays a key role in protecting the skin against harmful ultraviolet radiation, abnormally high production and accumulation of melanin in the skin can lead to hyperpigmentation. The more melanocytes produce, the darker the skin pigmentation. This can result in undesirable brown pigment spots such as senile lentigo, freckles, liver spots, melasma, age spots, vitiligo, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation due to abrasion, burns, injuries, or dermatitis.

[0004] Many factors contribute to increased melanin production and therefore to skin hyperpigmentation. These factors can be linked to the natural aging process and genetic influences, but also to environmental factors such as exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun, inflammation, acne, stress, hormonal changes, or pollution.

[0005] Although generally harmless, hyperpigmentation of the skin, particularly of the face, is generally considered unsightly.

[0006] Various skin-lightening agents are known which inhibit melanogenesis in order to prevent hyperpigmentation of the skin or to lighten pigmentation spots.

[0007] These lightening agents are mainly hydroquinones and their derivatives such as Arbutin and deoxyarbutin, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, azelaic acid, polyphenols such as resveratrol, and isoflavones such as glabridin are all known skin-lightening agents. However, some of these agents, such as hydroquinone, while effective, are known to cause melanocyte cytotoxicity and increase hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones. Furthermore, kojic acid and its derivatives have the disadvantage of exhibiting some toxicity and cannot be used in high doses in consumer products. In addition, in some cases, the use of these skin-lightening agents may not be effective for individuals with significant hyperpigmentation, freckles, or age spots.Furthermore, these active ingredients only become effective after several weeks of continuous use, and, on the other hand, prolonged use of products containing some of these active ingredients can sometimes be unacceptable for toxicological reasons.

[0008] Other skin-lightening agents such as soy extracts and niacinamide and its derivatives have been proposed to improve skin appearance and reduce hyperpigmentation by regulating the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes. However, the effectiveness of these skin-lightening agents still needs improvement.

[0009] Numerous previous attempts to combine various skin-lightening agents have proven insufficiently satisfactory.

[0010] Despite the skin lightening agents and compositions described so far in the prior art, there is still a need for new compositions for skin lightening and hyperpigmentation reduction that are safer, better tolerated by the skin and more effective.

[0011] There also remains a need for new compositions that are not toxic, preferably of natural origin, and that are relatively inexpensive.

[0012] The applicant discovered that the combination of an extract of Dictyopteris polypodioides and niacinamide is surprisingly effective in whitening and / or lightening keratinous materials, particularly skin, and in preventing and / or reducing and / or eliminating pigmentation defects related to the appearance of skin spots.

[0013] The applicant has also developed new cosmetic compositions comprising a combination of lightening agents including at least one extract of Dictyopteris polypodioides, niacinamide, an extract of Pancratium Maritimum, and an extract of Iris Florentina. It has been observed that these agents act synergistically to lighten, brighten, and even out the complexion with remarkable effectiveness; in particular, this combination is effective after a short treatment period.

[0014] The compositions according to the invention are mainly composed of plant extracts and thus have the advantage of being easily produced on a large scale industrial, easy to formulate and highly stable. Several of the compounds used are also readily available and extracted from renewable resources, making it possible to manufacture cosmetic compositions in accordance with the principles of sustainable development. Summary of the invention

[0015] The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least: • an extract of Pancratium maritimum, • an extract of Dictyopteris polypodioides, • an extract of Iris florentina, • niacinamide.

[0016] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising at least one extract of Dictyopteris polypodioides and niacinamide in a cosmetically acceptable medium for bleaching and / or lightening keratinous materials, in particular for bleaching and / or lightening the skin.

[0017] According to a preferred embodiment of cosmetic use, the composition further comprises at least one extract selected from an extract of Pancratium maritimum and an extract of Iris florentina.

[0018] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight of Dictyopteris polypodioides extract relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.1 to 20% by weight of niacinamide relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.0001% to 0.5% by weight of Pancratium Maritimum extract relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.001% to 2%, by weight, of Iris florentina extract relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0023] According to a preferred embodiment, the mass ratio of Dictyopteris polypodioides extract / niacinamide ranges from 0.0001:1 to 0.1:1.

[0024] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic use is for: • prevent and / or reduce and / or fade and / or lessen and / or remove pigmentation spots, and / or • reduce the size of pigmentation spots, and / or • to even out or brighten the skin tone, and / or • improve the texture and overall appearance of the skin.

[0025] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigmentation spots are senile lentigo spots, freckles, liver spots, chloasma, melasma, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation spots. Detailed description

[0026] According to a first aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic (non-therapeutic) use of a composition comprising at least one extract of Dictyopteris polypodiodes and niacinamide in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, for whitening and / or lightening keratinous materials, in particular the skin, and for preventing and / or reducing and / or eliminating pigment spots on the skin.

[0027] According to a second aspect, the invention relates to cosmetic compositions for whitening and / or lightening keratinous materials, in particular skin, these compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least: • an extract of Dictyopteris polypodiodes, • niacinamide, • an extract of Pancratium maritimum, • an extract of Iris florentina.

[0028] According to a third aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic care method comprising the topical application of the compositions according to the invention.

[0029] Cosmetic use for whitening and / or lightening keratinous materials:

[0030] A first object of the present invention consists in the cosmetic use of a composition comprising at least one extract of Dictyopteris polypodiodes and niacinamide in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, to whiten and / or lighten keratinous materials and to prevent and / or reduce and / or eliminate pigment spots on the skin.

[0031] The term "keratinous materials" refers primarily to the skin, particularly of the body or face, or to the scalp, nails, or hair. Preferably, in the context of the present invention, the keratinous material is the skin.

[0032] The terms "bleach", "lighten" or "depigment" are used here interchangeably and refer to the process of lightening keratinous materials, particularly skin, to lighten a naturally dark skin color but also to reduce and / or eliminate hyperpigmentation and pigmentation spots or skin marks.

[0033] The terms "pigmentation spots" or "pigmentation marks" refer to skin marks where the pigmentation is greater than that of an adjacent area of ​​skin and which may result from a disorder of melanin production. These pigment spots may be age spots, such as senile lentigo, Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation spots due to abrasion, burns, injuries, or dermatitis; spots caused by exposure to ultraviolet radiation, stress, hormonal changes, or pollution. Pigmented spots include, but are not limited to, freckles, liver spots, melasma, vitiligo, chloasma, age spots, and solar lentigo.

[0034] The composition used according to the invention comprises an extract of Dictyopteris polypodiodes also known as Dictyopteris membranacea or sea fern.

[0035] The term "Dictyopteris polypodiodes" refers to a perennial brown alga belonging to the family Dictyotaceae. This alga can be found on dimly lit rocks in the infralittoral and circalittoral zones. In the Atlantic Ocean, it is found under the fronds of kelp. It can also be found in photophilic biotopes in the southern Mediterranean.

[0036] Preferably, the extract of Dictyopteris polypodiodes is an aqueous extract obtained by leaching according to the processes known to the person skilled in the art.

[0037] Advantageously, the composition used according to the present invention comprises between 0.001% and 0.5%, preferably between 0.005% and 0.1%, preferably again between 0.01% and 0.05% by weight of Dictyopteris polypodiodes extract (by weight of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] In the present invention, the expression "between X and Y" includes the limits, unless explicitly stated otherwise. This expression therefore means that the interval in question includes the values ​​X, Y, and all values ​​from X to Y.

[0039] The cosmetic composition used according to the invention further comprises nia-cinamide.

[0040] Niacinamide belongs to the B vitamin family and is also known as vitamin B3, nicotinamide, or 3-pyridinecarboxamide (CAS: 98-92-0). Niacinamide is a biologically active form of niacin found in many vegetables, roots, and yeasts.

[0041] Advantageously, the composition used according to the present invention comprises between 0.1% and 20%, preferably between 0.2% and 10%, more preferably between 1% and 8% by weight of niacinamide relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] Advantageously, in the composition used according to the present invention, the mass ratio between the extract of Dictyopteris polypodiodes and niacinamide ranges from 0.0001:1 to 0.1:1, preferably from 0.001:1 to 0.01:1.

[0043] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition used according to the present invention further comprises at least one other compound selected from an extract of Pancratium maritimum, also called Sea Lily or Sand Lily, an extract of Iris Florentina or mixtures thereof.

[0044] The term "Pancratium maritimum" refers to the bulbous perennial plant of the Amaryllidaceae family. It is a plant that grows on sandy and warm sites in Mediterranean coastal areas as well as on the coasts of southwestern Europe.

[0045] Preferably, the extract of Pancratium maritimum is an aqueous extract. The aqueous extract of Pancratium maritimum can be obtained by any extraction process known to those skilled in the art, including, for example, collecting the parts of the plant to be extracted, drying and / or freeze-drying, aqueous extraction and filtration of the extract.

[0046] Preferably, the extract of Pancratium maritimum is obtained from the aerial parts of the plant such as stems, leaves, flowers, fruits and / or seeds, preferably leaves and flowers.

[0047] The term "Iris florentina" refers to the rhizomatous plant with white flowers belonging to the iris family (Iridaceae). Generally, the extract of Iris florentina is obtained from the root of the plant using extraction methods known to those skilled in the art. Preferably, the extract of Iris florentina is an aqueous extract.

[0048] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition used according to the present invention comprises, at least: • an extract of Dictyopteris polypodiodes, • niacinamide, • an extract of Pancratium maritimum, • an extract of Iris florentina.

[0049] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises between 0.0001% and 0.5%, preferably between 0.0005% and 0.05%, preferably again between 0.001% and 0.02% by weight of Pancratium maritimum extract (by weight of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises between 0.001% and 2%, preferably between 0.005% and 1%, more preferably between 0.01% and 0.5% by weight of Iris florentina extract (by weight of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] The applicant has discovered that the cosmetic compositions described above are particularly effective for: • to prevent and / or reduce and / or fade and / or attenuate and / or eliminate pigmentation spots, in particular age spots, lentigo senile spots, freckles, liver spots, chloasma, melasma, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation spots, • reduce the size of pigmentation spots, • to whiten and / or lighten the skin, • To even out and brighten the complexion and / or revive the skin's radiance, • improve skin clarity, • improve the overall appearance of the skin and refine its texture, • reduce signs of skin reactivity and / or diminish redness, • hydrate the skin for several hours, and / or • reduce and / or lessen the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

[0052] By "improving the overall appearance of the skin" it is understood that one or more of the following benefits are obtained: reduction of imperfections and / or color defects of the skin, including the uniformization of pigmentation, improvement of the skin's ability to retain moisture and / or to protect itself from environmental aggressions, increase in the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin.

[0053] Cosmetic compositions according to the invention

[0054] The applicant also found that some of the skin-lightening compositions described above were not known in the prior art. The present invention also relates to these new cosmetic compositions.

[0055] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least: • an extract of Dictyopteris polypodiodes, • niacinamide, • an extract of Pancratium maritimum, • an extract of Iris florentina.

[0056] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises between 0.001% and 0.5%, preferably between 0.005% and 0.1%, preferably again between 0.01% and 0.05% by weight of Dictyopteris polypodiodes extract (by weight of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises between 0.1% and 20%, preferably between 0.2% and 10%, more preferably between 1% and 8% by weight of niacinamide relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises between 0.0001% and 0.5%, preferably between 0.0005% and 0.05%, preferably again between 0.001% and 0.02% by weight of Pancratium maritimum extract (by weight of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises between 0.001% and 2%, preferably between 0.005% and 1%, more preferably between 0.01% and 0.5% by weight of Iris florentina extract (by weight of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] The compositions for use according to the invention or the compositions according to the invention may further include one or more compounds from among those typically used in cosmetic formulation, in particular antioxidants, sunscreens, moisturizing agents, etc.

[0061] Advantageously, the compositions for use according to the invention or the compositions according to the invention further comprise at least one compound of plant origin selected from a witch hazel extract also called witch hazel floral water or witch hazel hydrosol, a chamomile extract, a corn kernel derivative, in particular pentavitin, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] The compositions for use according to the invention or the compositions according to the invention may further include one or more other keratinous material lightening agents known from the prior art such as, for example, hydroquinone, tretinoin, tranexamic acid, alpha-hydroxy acids, kojic acid, glutathione, azelaic acid, arbutin, N-acetylglucosamine, mandelic acid, retinol, and combinations thereof.

[0063] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention essentially consists of: an extract of Dictyopteris polypodiodes, niacinamide, an extract of Pancratium maritimum, an extract of Iris florentina, and a cosmetically acceptable base.

[0064] The expression "consists essentially of" followed by one or more characteristics means that the composition may optionally include one or more additional formulation additives, but does not include other cosmetically active substances that have an effect on skin lightening.

[0065] The cosmetically acceptable support

[0066] The composition according to the invention and the compositions used according to the invention also include a cosmetically acceptable support which acts as a diluent or dispersant for the composition detailed above.

[0067] By "cosmetically acceptable" is meant a carrier safe for contact with human skin and preferably free from any ingredient likely to cause skin irritation.

[0068] The cosmetically acceptable carrier may include, but is not limited to, adjuvants commonly used in skin care products such as solvents, liquid or solid emollients, vegetable oils, paraffin oils, silicone oils, emulsifiers, solvents, humectants, thickeners, powders and propellants, perfumes, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, opacifiers, preservatives, pigments, and buffers. The quantities of these various adjuvants are those typically used in cosmetic formulations, for example, from 0.01 to 50% of the total weight of the composition.

[0069] Advantageously, the quantity of cosmetically acceptable support varies between 5% and 99.6%, preferably from 15% to 98%, preferably still from 75% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] Form of cosmetic compositions according to the invention

[0071] The compositions for use according to the invention or the compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to methods well known to those skilled in cosmetic formulation, generally involving simple mixing steps, and possibly heating of the components.

[0072] Advantageously, the compositions for use according to the invention or the compositions according to the invention are in the form of an emulsion.

[0073] The emulsion can be an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion or a water-in-silicone emulsion.

[0074] The oily phase may include silicone oils, non-silicone oils such as paraffinic hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, waxes, or vegetable oils, or mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase may include water or an aqueous solution of hydrophilic substances, such as polyols, alpha-hydroxy acids, amino acids, protein hydrolysates, simple sugars, and polysaccharides. The emulsifiers may be surfactants known to those skilled in the art in cosmetic care and may include, in particular, nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants.

[0075] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions for use according to the invention or the compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0076] The compositions for use according to the invention or the compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a cream, a lotion, a mousse, a Uniment, a serum, a gel, a micellar water, an oil, a two-phase composition, a milk, an encapsulation system or a stick preparation.

[0077] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions for use according to the invention or the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a cream or a milk.

[0078] Cosmetic care process

[0079] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic, non-therapeutic method of skin lightening comprising at least one step of topical application to the keratinous materials of a subject, in particular the skin, of a cosmetically effective amount of a composition comprising at least one extract of Dictyopteris polypodioides and niacinamide.

[0080] Preferably the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one compound selected from an extract of Pancratium maritimum and an extract of Iris florentina, preferably it comprises an extract of Pancratium maritimum and an extract of Iris florentina.

[0081] By "cosmetically effective quantity" is meant the amount of the composition necessary to obtain the desired lightening effect. A person skilled in the art is able to determine the amount of composition to be used for each application based on the skin type of the subject being treated, and the amount and intensity of the pigmentary irregularities to be corrected.

[0082] Preferably, the composition is applied by spreading it on one or more skin areas exhibiting hyperpigmentation or pigment spots such as the face, neck, décolleté, hands, arms, back and / or legs.

[0083] The duration of treatment can be adapted to the type and intensity of the spots to be reduced and / or eliminated. For example, the composition of the present invention can be applied once, twice, or several times a day. Typically, the treatment can be maintained for several days, for example, 5 to 10 days, several weeks, for example, 1 to 6 weeks, or several months, for example, 1 to 12 months. Examples

[0084] The invention is illustrated by the following examples given by way of non-limiting example.

[0085] In the examples, parts and percentages are expressed in weight unless otherwise indicated.

[0086] 1- Active ingredients and cosmetic compositions: • Pancratium maritimum extract: commercially available from CODIF under the name Neurolight.61G. This product consists of a mixture of water, glycerin, and 0.3% by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the commercial product. • Extract of Dictyopteris polypodioides, commercially available from CODIF under the name 3M3 Lighteris G. This product consists of a mixture of water, glycerin and 0.9% by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the commercial product, • Iris florentina extract: commercially available from Silab under the name IRIS ISO 0P. This product consists of a mixture of water, butylene glycol, and 2.8% by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the commercial product. • niacinamide: (CAS No. 98-92-0) commercially available from DSM under the name Niacinamide PC.

[0087] Composition A: face cream [Tables 1] Ingredients (mixed INCI name) % INCI Aqua 57.335100 Glycerin 7.550000 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 5.000000 Niacinamide (vitamin B3) 5.000000 Butyrospermum parkii butter 3.000000 Isononyl isononanoate 3.000000 Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer 2.970000 Butylene glycol 2.624400 Silica 2.250000 Glyceryl stearate 2.000000 PEG-100 stearate 2.000000 Octyldodecanol 1.500000 Octyldodecanol 1.500000 Cetyl alcohol 1.000000 Phenoxyethanol 0.900000 Titanium dioxide 0.750000 Glyceryl behenate 0.500000 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 0.425000 Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vp copolymer 0.200000 Parfum 0.200000 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.100000 Iris extract florentina 0.084000 Polysorbate 60 0.027500 Sorbitan isostearate 0.027500 Dictyopteris polypodioides extract 0.027000 Citric acid 0.025000 Pancratium maritimum extract 0.004500 Total 100.000000

[0088] Procedure for preparing the cream [Tables 2] Mixed INCI Name Phase Procedure Aqua A Prepare phase A and heat in a water bath to 75°C Glycerin PEG-100 stearate Glyceryl stearate B Prepare phase B and heat in a water bath to 80°C. Once A and B are at temperature, homogenize them and then emulsify B in A Cetyl alcohol Glyceryl behenate Octyldodecanol Butyrospermum parkii butter Isononyl isononanoate Squalane Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl-dimethyl taurate copolymer Sorbitan isostearate Polysorbate 60 Aqua Caprylic / capric triglyceride Silica Titanium dioxide C Add this phase directly after emulsification. Homogenize Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer Aqua Phenoxyethanol Ethylhexylglycerin D Add this phase and homogenize Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer E Add this phase and homogenize. Cool Butylene glycol Aqua Iris florentina root extract F Add the ingredients one by one, while stirring. Glycerin Aqua Dictyopteris polypodioides extract Glycerin Water Pancratium maritimum extract Aqua G Prepare phase G and add it in a thin stream to the formula while stirring. Allow to homogenize after incorporating all the active ingredients. Niacinamide Aqua Citric acid H Adjust the pH to obtain 5.2 <pH<5.8 Parfum I Ajouter le parfum, homogénéiser. Réajuster le pH si nécessaire.

[0089] Composition B: body lotion [Tables 3] Ingrédients (Nom INCI mixte) % INCI Aqua 65,500000 Glycerin 6,500000 Butyrospermum parkii butter 3,000000 Caprylic / capric triglycéride 3,000000 Isononyl isononanoate 3,000000 Hamamelis Virginiana leaf water 2,982000 Cetyl alcohol 2,000000 Niacinamide (vitamine B3) 2,000000 Glyceryl stéarate 1,750000 Peg-100 stéarate 1,750000 Octyldodecanol 1,500000 Squalane 1,500000 Betaine 1,000000 Dimethicone 1,000000 Phenoxyethanol 0,900000 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 0,850000 Helianthus annuus seed oil 0,475000 Saccharide isomerate 0,308000 Parfum 0,300000 Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 0,285000 Ethylhexylglycerin 0,100000 Tetrasodium edta 0,084500 Polysorbate 60 0,055000 Sorbitan isostearate 0,055000 Citric acid 0,033250 Extrait de dictyopteris Polypodioides 0,027000 Chamomilla recutita flower extract 0,025000 Potassium sorbate 0,006000 Sodium benzoate 0,006000 T-butyl alcohol 0,006000 Sodium citrate 0,002250 Total 100,000000

[0090] Procedure for preparing milk [Tables 4] Mixed INCI Name Phase Procedure Aqua A Solubilize the EDTA in water, then add the other ingredients one by one, stirring constantly. Heat to 75°C in a water bath. Hamamelis virginiana leaf water Citric acid Sodium benzoate Potassium sorbate Tetrasodium EDTA Aqua Glycerin PEG-100 stearate Glyceryl stearate B Prepare phase B and then heat to 80°C in a water bath. Butyrospermum parkii butter Cetyl alcohol Octyldodecanol Isononyl isononanoate Squalane Caprylic / capric triglyceride Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer Sorbitan isostearate Polysorbate 60 Aqua Dimethicone C Once phase B is at temperature, add C and homogenize. Emulsify B+C in A while stirring. Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, Aqua, T-butyl alcohol D. Add phase D and homogenize. Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin E. Add phase E and homogenize. Cool. Niacinamide F When T°C < 40°C, add the previously prepared phase F while stirring. Aqua Glycerin Aqua Dictyopteris polypodioides extract G Add the ingredients of phase G one by one: Betaine Helianthus annuus seed oil Chamomilla recutita flower extract Saccharide isomerate Aqua Citric acid Sodium citrate Aqua Citric acid H Adjust the pH to obtain 5.2 <ph<5.8 Parfum I Ajouter le concentré et homogénéiser et réajuster le pH si nécessaire.

[0091] Evaluation of the effect of compositions A and B on skin lightening

[0092] 1) Protocol:

[0093] The compositions according to the invention were tested on a panel of 18 women and 2 men, aged between 24 and 65 years with phenotype IV, V and VI and a panel of 21 women aged between 33 and 67 years with phenotype I, II and III.

[0094] Composition A was tested, applied to the face, twice a day, and to the forearm, twice a day, to measure colorimetry for phenotypes I, II, III. Composition B was tested on the body and on the forearm at least once a day for phenotypes IV, V, VI.

[0095] The subjects had normal to dry skin with pigment spots and fine lines and wrinkles. The subjects applied the compositions at least once a day for a period of 8 weeks.

[0096] The different measurements were taken during the first visit, noted J0, during an intermediate visit after 4 weeks, noted J28 for phenotype I, II, and III, and during the final visit after 8 weeks, noted J56 for all phenotypes.

[0097] 2) Evaluation of the skin tolerance of the compositions according to the invention:

[0098] Clinical examination carried out by a dermatologist shows that compositions A and B according to the invention have shown very good skin tolerance.

[0099] 3) Subjective evaluation of the effectiveness of the compositions according to the invention by the subjects through a self-assessment questionnaire:

[0100] Composition A: [Tables 5] Cosmetic Efficacy % of subjects with phenotypes I, II, and III satisfied (Day 28) % of subjects with phenotypes I, II, and III satisfied (Day 56) % of subjects with phenotypes IV, V, and VI satisfied (Day 56) The product leaves skin soft 95% 100% 95% Skin is hydrated and smoothed from the first application 95% 90% 85% Skin is brighter 86% 95% 95% Complexion is more even 81% 95% 95% The product reduces skin imperfections - - 75% The product fades dark spots 57% 86% 70% The product significantly reduces dark spots 48% 62% 70% The product reduces the color of dark spots 71% 81% 80% The product brightens facial skin 62% 76% 65% The product reduces wrinkles and fine lines 57% 62% 65% The product refines skin texture 57% 71% 70% The product moisturizes skin all day long 95% 95% 85%

[0101] Composition B: [Tableauxô] Efficacy after 8 weeks % Subjects with phenotypes IV, V, and IV satisfied The product leaves skin soft 95% Skin is brighter 80% Skin tone is more even 75% The product has a skin-brightening effect 50% The product provides comfort to the skin 95% The product softens the skin 95% The product cares for the skin 95% The product improves the appearance of the skin 90% The product nourishes the skin 95% The product intensely hydrates the skin for 24 hours 90% The skin is firmer 75% The skin is smoother 80%

[0102] 4) Clinical scoring

[0103] A visual clinical scoring was performed by the dermatologist to evaluate the following parameters on a scale of 1 to 9: a. Skin tone uniformity: a value of 1 means that the skin is uneven with spots and imperfections, a value of 9 means that the skin is even and without spots or imperfections. b. Skin radiance: a value of 1 means the skin is dull and lacks radiance, a value of 9 means the skin is very radiant and glowing. c. Skin tone clarity: a value of 1 means that the skin is dark and highly pigmented, a value of 9 means that the skin is light and lightly pigmented. The values ​​obtained at day 56 were compared with the initial values ​​at day 0 using the non-parametric Wilcoxon test (significance: p < 0.05). The results are presented numerically and expressed as the mean of the statistically significant difference. d. the intensity of the color of the stain: a value of 1 means that the stain is very dark and highly pigmented, a value of 9 means that the stain is light and lightly pigmented.

[0104] Composition A: [Paintings?] Phenotypes IV, V, and VI Parameter Mean and Standard Deviation Probability p: Wilcoxon Test % variation Value at D0 Value at D56 Skin tone uniformity 6.55 + 1.05 6.90 + 0.79 0.020 7% Skin brightness 5.95 + 0.94 6.65 + 0.75 0.001 13% Skin tone clarity 4.50 + 1.05 5.20 + 1.06 0.001 18% Phenotypes I, II, and III Results at D28 Skin brightness 6.29 + 0.64 6.67 + 0.58 < 0.005 7% Spot color intensity 5.67 + 0.86 6.05 + 0.86 < 0.005 7% Spot size (cm) 0.98 + 0.42 0.96 + 0.41 0.046 -2% Results at Day 56 Skin Brightness 6.29 + 0.64 7.24 + 0.54 < 0.001 16% Spot Color Intensity 5.67 + 0.86 6.67 + 0.86 < 0.001 18% Spot Size (cm) 0.98 + 0.42 0.95 + 0.39 0.038 -3%

[0105] Based on these results, it can be seen that composition A according to the invention significantly improves the evenness and clarity of the complexion, as well as the radiance of the skin after just 4 weeks of use, and even more so after 8 weeks of use. The composition also reduces the intensity of pigmentation spots and their size.

[0106] 5) Colorimetric evaluation

[0107] The following parameters were evaluated using a CR-400® chromameter:

[0108]

[0109]

[0110] [YES]

[0112] • brightness, noted as “L*”, • yellow-blue chromaticity, denoted “b*”, • intensity of skin pigmentation noted “ITA°” (individual typological angle). This parameter is calculated according to the following formula: ITA° = [ Arc Tangent (( L* - 50 ) / b* ) ] 180 / 3.14159 The values ​​obtained at day 56 were compared with the initial values ​​at day 0 using the Student's t-test (significance: p < 0.05). The results are presented numerically and expressed as the mean of the statistically significant difference. Composition A: [Tables 8] Phenotypes IV, V, and VI Parameter Mean and Standard Deviation (1) Probability p: T-student % variation Delta Value at D0 Value at D56 L* 54.67 + 1.01 55.89 + 0.87 0.003 2% 1.22 b* 18.25 + 0.28 18.04 + 0.31 0.190 -1% -0.20 ITA° 13.71 + 3.12 17.42 + 2.68 0.002 17% 3.71 Phenotypes I, II, and III Results at D28 L* 60.75 + 0.54 61.15 + 0.45 0.053 1% 0.3 b* 18.42 + 0.52 18.16 + 0.43 0.202 -1% -0.2 ITA° 30.25 + 1.49 31.55 + 1.26 0.014 5% 1.02 Results at D56 L* 60.75+ 0.54 61.61+0.56 < 0.001 1% 0.86 b* 18.42+ 0.52 17.75+ 0.46 0.017 -3% -0.66 ITA° 30.25+ 1.49 33.04+ 1.48 <0.001 10% 2.78 1. Average of three successive measurements on the same area. Composition B: [Tables 9] Phenotype IV, V, and VI Parameter Mean and Standard Deviation (1) Probability P: T-student % variation Delta Value at 0.001 Value at 56.001 L* 56.36 + 1.20 57.90 + 1.14 < 0.001 3% 1.55 b* 20.56 + 0.89 18.91 + 0.39 0.033 -6% -1.64 ITA° 17.17 + 3.43 21.96 + 3.20 < 0.001 48% 4.79

[0113] Based on these results, a statistically significant difference in skin luminosity (L*) and pigmentation (ITA°) is observed after 4 weeks of using composition A, and even more so after 8 weeks of using both compositions according to the invention. The increase in parameter L* indicates brighter skin, and the increase in parameter ITA° indicates a lighter skin tone.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least: - an extract of Pancratium maritimum, - an extract of Dictyopteris polypodioides, - an extract of Iris florentina, - niacinamide.

2. Composition according to claim 1 comprising from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight of Dictyopteris polypodioides extract relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2 comprising from 0.1 to 20% by weight of niacinamide relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising from 0.0001% to 0.5% by weight of Pancratium Maritimum extract relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising from 0.001% to 2%, by weight, of Iris florentina extract relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims which is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.

7. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition comprising at least one extract of Dictyopteris polypodioides, one extract of Iris florentina and niacinamide in a cosmetically acceptable medium for bleaching and / or lightening keratinous materials, in particular for bleaching and / or lightening the skin.

8. Use according to claim 7 wherein the mass ratio of Dictyopteris polypodioides extract / niacinamide ranges from 0.0001:1 to 0.1:

1.

9. Use according to claim 7 or claim 8 for: - reducing and / or fading and / or attenuating pigmentation spots, and / or - reducing the size of pigmentation spots, and / or - unifying or brightening skin tone, and / or - to improve the texture and overall appearance of the skin.

10. Use according to claim 9 wherein the pigmentation spots are senile lentigo spots, freckles, chloasma, melasma, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation spots.

11. Use according to any one of claims 7 to 10 wherein the composition further comprises an extract of Pancratium maritimum.