Anhydrous makeup composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition for application to the skin or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a liposoluble colorant Orange 5 and one or more C3-C8 diols.

Description

Title of the invention: Anhydrous makeup composition FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to anhydrous compositions for skin or lip care and / or makeup. PRIOR TECHNOLOGY

[0002] Consumers are looking for products that give a fairly natural makeup result.

[0003] The invention relates to compositions whose color changes upon application to the skin or lips. The compositions of the invention thus differ from conventional makeup compositions, for which a color match is generally sought between the composition in its packaging and the application of this composition to the skin or lips, thereby facilitating the user's choice of desired color.

[0004] In lip products, the use of tetrabromofluorescein, also known as eosin or Red No. 21, Red No. 27, or mixtures thereof, is well known in balms or glosses with little or no color. These eosins have the particularity of not coloring the bulk composition (the color is not revealed in the composition), but of reacting to the moisture and pH of the lips to release the eosin and instantly pinken the lip color; it is also said that eosins color or 'stain' the lips upon application. DC Red 21 and DC Red 27 color the lips pink, but in order to offer a wider range of shades to consumers, the Applicant has developed formulas with another eosin, the liposoluble Orange 5 colorant, which colors the lips orange and thus provides a warmer color.

[0005] However, unlike the aforementioned conventional eosins, the Applicant unexpectedly observed that this Orange 5 dye has the disadvantage of tinting the mass composition and that this mass tint evolves over time and according to the surrounding conditions (e.g., humid atmosphere), which represents a significant disadvantage for a product used for several weeks or several months.

[0006] There was therefore a need to develop new anhydrous compositions producing new orange tints when applied to the lips thanks to an Orange 5 dye, while achieving the desired effect, namely a revelation of the color of orange 5 at the time of application to the skin or lips, as classic eosins do, without coloring by orange 5 in the bulk composition.

[0007] The Applicant highlighted that the use of C3-C8 diols, among Several polar compounds tested made it possible to prevent mass colouring of the shade by Orange 5, without impacting the properties of the composition (in particular its translucent or transparent appearance for a fluid composition) or the revelation of the orange colour upon application to the lips.

[0008] The use of one or more C3-C8 diols, in combination with the Orange 5 colorant, makes it possible to obtain compositions that are not colored throughout (if no other additional colorants are present besides Orange 5) or that are slightly tinted (if other additional colorants are present besides Orange 5). Translucent or transparent compositions (particularly for fluid compositions) or white or lightly colored compositions can thus be obtained, with the orange color being revealed upon application to the lips or skin, for a natural lip or skin makeup effect, with a healthy glow. Description of the invention

[0009] A first object of the invention is therefore an anhydrous cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: An Orange 5 fat-soluble dye and One or more diols in C3-C8.

[0010] Preferably the composition comprises pentylene glycol, advantageously for solid compositions, or caprylyl glycol, advantageously for fluid compositions.

[0011] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for skincare and / or makeup application to the skin or lips, particularly the lips, comprising the application to the skin or lips of a composition as defined according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0012] The invention therefore relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: An Orange 5 fat-soluble dye and One or more diols in C3-C8.

[0013] By 'anhydrous', it is understood in particular that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition. position, or even is completely free of water.

[0014] By 'color in the mass' or 'hue in the mass', we mean the color or hue of the composition as it is perceived when the composition is packaged and ready for use. This may be the color or hue of a lipstick poured into a stick or pan, the color of a lip gloss packaged in a bottle or any other suitable transparent packaging that allows the color of the product to be seen.

[0015] The color of the composition according to the invention, as visually perceived when a user looks at it before using it, is different from the color of the composition visually perceived once it has been applied to a support, such as skin or lips, in particular lips.

[0016] This color change can be objectified by any means that makes it possible to highlight the differences in color (or even in tint) between the composition in its mass and a film of the composition.

[0017] According to one embodiment, in the case of a fluid composition according to the invention, it is preferable that the cosmetic base of the composition be translucent or substantially transparent in its mass.

[0018] By "transparent composition" according to the invention, we mean a composition which has a transparent or translucent appearance in the mass, and / or a composition whose film applied to keratinous materials is transparent to the naked eye.

[0019] By "transparent in mass", it is meant that the composition allows light to pass through and makes it possible to distinguish objects or alphanumeric characters.

[0020] By "translucent in mass", it is meant that the composition allows light to pass through but does not allow objects or alphanumeric characters to be distinguished.

[0021] In the case of a solid composition according to the invention, the composition will generally be translucent or substantially transparent in its mass, at the end of preparation, when hot (temperature greater than or equal to the melting point temperature of the waxes present), but will tend to become opaque upon cooling, due to the presence of waxes. Oil-soluble colorant Orange 5

[0022] The composition of the invention therefore comprises at least one fat-soluble colorant Orange 5.

[0023] The fat-soluble dye Orange 5 used in the context of the present invention is distinct from the pigment grade which has the same Color Index CI 45370).

[0024] This is the liposoluble compound of formula

[0025] [Chem.l]

[0026] One can cite in particular the product marketed under the name UNICERT ORANGE K7003 J by the company SENSIENT BEAUTY.

[0027] According to a particular mode, the fat-soluble colorant Orange 5 is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 0.2% by weight, preferably from 0.015 to 0.15% relative to the total weight of the composition. Diols in C3-C8

[0028] The composition of the invention further comprises one or more C3-C8 diols.

[0029] 'Diols' are understood to be organic compounds bearing two hydroxyl groups.

[0030] In particular, the diol(s) are selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof; in particular pentylene glycol and caprylyl glycol.

[0031] According to a particular mode, the composition comprises propylene glycol.

[0032] According to another particular mode, the composition comprises butylene glycol.

[0033] According to another particular and preferred mode, especially for solid compositions, the composition comprises pentylene glycol.

[0034] Indeed, the Applicant observed that this C5 diol gave the best results in terms of stabilization of Orange 5 and transparency in the mass, particularly in solid compositions (transparency in the mass when hot, before cooling).

[0035] According to another particular and preferred mode, especially for fluid compositions, the composition comprises caprylyl glycol.

[0036] Indeed, the Applicant observed that this C8 diol gave the best results in terms of stabilization of Orange 5 and transparency in the mass, particularly in fluid compositions.

[0037] According to a particular method, the C3-C8 diol(s) is / are present in the composition at a total content ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, and preferably still 1 to 2% relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0038] The composition of the invention will further advantageously include one or more polar oils.

[0039] Polar oils

[0040] For the purposes of this invention, "polar oil" means an oil comprising at least one group comprising an oxygen atom.

[0041] In particular, the polar hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise at least one alcohol function (in which case it is an "alcohol oil") or at least one ester function (in which case it is an "ester oil").

[0042] Preferably, an ester oil will be used.

[0043] Among the "alcohol oils", one can mention in particular the C10-C26 alcohols, more particularly in the C10-C24 range, and preferably in the C12-C22 range, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, more particularly monoalcohols. More specifically, C10-C26 alcohols are fatty monoalcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention include linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic or natural origin. Specific examples of fatty alcohols that are preferably usable include lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] Among the "ester oils", the following may be mentioned in particular:

[0045] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, propyl gallate; glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0046] - fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0047] - synthetic esters such as RiCOOR2 formula oils in which Ri re presents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri+R2 is >16, such as isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristate 2-octyldodecyl, 2-diethylhexyl succinate;

[0048] - linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70;

[0049] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0050] - C24-C28 branched fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters;

[0051] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of car- acid(s) boxyl(s) hydroxylated by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an acid aliphatic dicarboxylic, possibly unsaturated;

[0052] and mixtures thereof.

[0053] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises one or more ester oils selected from hydroxylated esters having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, fatty acid esters from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, synthetic esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Preferably, the composition of the invention is a solid composition (e.g., stick) and comprises a hydroxylated ester having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, diisostearyl malate, propyl gallate, and mixtures thereof, and optionally further a fatty acid ester having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, such as caprylic / capric triglyceride.

[0055] Preferably, the composition of the invention is a fluid composition (e.g., gloss) and comprises a hydroxylated ester having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70 such as diisostearyl malate and / or propyl gallate, and a synthetic ester such as ethylhexyl palmitate.

[0056] The total content of polar oil(s) in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.1 to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] In particular in a solid composition (e.g., stick), the total content of polar oil(s) in the composition of the invention will generally range from 5 to 35% by weight, in particular from 15 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] In particular, in a fluid composition (e.g., lip gloss), the total content of polar oil(s) in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Other additional ingredients

[0059] According to a particular mode, the composition further comprises an additional ingredient chosen from the group consisting of non-polar oils, lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fats, waxes, coloring materials distinct from Orange 5, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] In particular, when the composition of the invention is solid, it will include in particular an additional ingredient chosen from non-polar oils, pasty fats, waxes, and preferably mixtures thereof.

[0061] In particular, when the composition of the invention is solid, it will include in particular an additional ingredient chosen from the group consisting of non-polar oils, lipophilic gelling agents, and preferably mixtures thereof.

[0062] Non-polar oils

[0063] According to a particular method, the composition may further include, in addition to the polar oil(s), one or more non-polar oil(s).

[0064] The non-polar oil can be a silicone oil or a hydrocarbon oil, preferably a hydrocarbon oil.

[0065] By 'nonpolar hydrocarbon oil', we mean an oil free of oxygen atoms.

[0066] It will advantageously be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosane, polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.

[0067] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one non-polar oil selected from polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, preferably even more hydrogenated polydecenes.

[0068] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises one or more polar oil(s) and one or more non-polar oil(s).

[0069] The total content of non-polar oil(s) in the composition of the invention will generally range from 5 to 30% by weight, in particular from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, whether the composition of the invention is solid or fluid.

[0070] Lipophilic gelling agents

[0071] The composition of the invention, in particular when it is a fluid composition, will generally include a lipophilic gelling agent.

[0072] By “lipophilic gelling agent” is meant a compound capable of gelling the oily or fatty phase of a composition.

[0073] Examples of lipophilic gelling agents include mineral lipophilic gelling agents, organic polymeric lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] As mineral lipophilic gelling agents, we can mention in particular clays possibly modified such as modified hectorites (ex: bentonites...), pyrogenated silica possibly treated hydrophobically on the surface (ex: silica silylate, Silica dimethyl silylate... ).

[0075] Examples of organic polymeric lipophilic gelling agents include partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes; sequenced copolymers of the "dibloc", "tribloc" or "radial" type such as polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene, polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-propylene, polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-butylene), tribloc copolymer butylene / ethylene / styrene; associative polymers derived from castor oil such as the gelling agents in the EstoGel® range from PolymerExpert.

[0076] Other examples include esters of dextrin and fatty acids such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; and tri-esters of fatty acids in C8 C30 and mono- or poly-glyceryl.

[0077] Preferably, oily gelling agents will be used for translucent or transparent compositions such as styrene-based copolymers dispersed in an oil.

[0078] The total content of gelling agent(s) in the composition of the invention, when present, will generally range from 0.2 to 5%, in particular from 0.3 to 3% by weight (excluding solvents) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] Pasty fat

[0080] According to a particular mode, in particular when the composition is solid, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more pasty fats.

[0081] By "pasty fat body" is meant a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0082] Examples include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, polyol(s) and diacid dimer esters of fatty acids, or of one of its esters, hydrogenated castor oil esters, jojoba esters, oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, vegetable butters and mixtures thereof.

[0083] The total content of pasty fats, when present in the composition of the invention, can range from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] Waxes

[0085] In a particular manner, especially when the composition is solid, the composition will comprise one or more waxes.

[0086] When the composition is fluid, the composition is advantageously free of wax.

[0087] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point above 30°C, preferably above 45°C.

[0088] Examples include microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols having 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes in particular alkyl dimethicones, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, beeswax, waxes of vegetable origin, copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] According to a particular and preferred mode, the total wax content in the composition of the invention ranges from 3% to 25%, preferably from 4% to 20% by weight, in particular from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Additional colouring materials (optional)

[0091] According to a particular method, the composition may further include one or more additional coloring materials, distinct from Orange 5, depending on the shade that one wishes to give to the product.

[0092] For the purposes of this invention, "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. Colorants are typically chosen from pigments (insoluble in oils and the aqueous phase) and dyes (soluble in oils or the aqueous phase).

[0093] Said colouring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. According to a particular method, the colouring material(s) are notably chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, composite pigments, mother-of-pearls, distinct colorants of Orange 5, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] By "pigments" we mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit.

[0095] Among the "mineral pigments", one can cite titanium dioxide, iron oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Among the "organic dyes and pigments (e.g., lakes)", one can cite, for example, Blue 1, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Yellow 10, Yellow 11, Red 4, Red 6, Red 7, Red 9, Red 19, Red 13, Red 17, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 30 and Red 33, Red 34, Red 36, Red 40, Green 3, Orange 4, Violet 2, carmine, Green 5, Orange 10, Green 6, Sudan red, Sudan brown, and quinoline yellow, their salts, such as a sodium or barium salt, or lakes comprising at least one of the said organic pigments, for example those bearing the names Blue 1 lake (CI 42090); Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140); Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10 lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11 Lake, Red 6 lake (15850); Red 7 lake (CI 15850); Red 21 lake (CI 45380); Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28 lake (CI 45410), Red 30 lake (CI 73360), Red 33 lake (CI 15880), Red 34 lake (CI 15880), Red 40 Lake (CI16035), and / or their salts."Lakes" are organic pigments comprising at least one organic dye precipitated on an inert support (also called a "base").

[0097] According to a particular embodiment, the composition does not comprise any other additional coloring materials distinct from Orange 5, or, if so, comprises a white pigment but does not comprise any other additional coloring materials distinct from Orange 5, so that the mass of the composition is not tinted. In this case, the composition has a so-called 'neutral' tint in its mass.

[0098] According to another method, the tint of the composition in its mass is slightly colored, in the case where it comprises one or more coloring materials distinct from Orange 5 and any white pigments.

[0099] This allows for a range of products with a mass tint ranging from transparent to opaque, or slightly colored, and whose Orange 5 color is revealed upon application to the skin or lips.

[0100] According to a particular and preferred mode, the fluid composition is transparent or translucent in its lump, according to the definitions given above.

[0101] The total content of additional colouring materials distinct from Orange 5, in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. PREPARATION METHOD

[0102] According to a particular method and to facilitate the reaction between Orange 5 and the C3-C8 diol(s) of the invention, the process for preparing the composition of the invention includes a pre-mixing and heating step of Orange 5 and the C3-C8 diol(s), upstream of the mixing with the other ingredients of the composition.

[0103] The temperatures and durations indicated in the processes below illustrate particular methods according to the invention, based on the examples illustrated below of preparation of solid or fluid compositions, but a person skilled in the art (cosmetic formulator) will know how to adjust the temperatures and durations of heating and / or homogenization of the mixtures, according to the nature of the ingredients used and their knowledge of their physicochemical properties (e.g., melting point of waxes...).

[0104] Thus, according to a particular mode, the process for preparing a solid composition (e.g., stick) of the invention will advantageously comprise the following steps:

[0105] a) eosin (Orange 5) is homogenized in one or more polar oils and passed through a mill, in particular passed 3 times through a three-roll mill;

[0106] 1b) the ground material obtained in step a) is mixed with the C3-C8 diol and heated (e.g., bath marie) at a temperature ranging from 70°C to 85°C, preferably 80°C, and under agitation for at least 45 minutes, preferably at least 60 minutes, and in particular from 60 to 80 minutes;

[0107] 2) the emollients, waxes and paste compounds are heated to a temperature ranging from 90°C at 100°C, preferably 95°C and subjected to agitation for 10 to 20 minutes, preferably 15 minutes to form a homogeneous mixture;

[0108] 3) if other coloring materials other than Orange 5 (e.g., white and / or colored pigments) must be incorporated into this preparation, they are (each or all together) mixed in ester oils and then passed through a mill, for example passed 3 times through a three-roll mill to form dispersions of each coloring material;

[0109] 4) the dispersions of coloring materials outside Orange 5 of step 3 and the preparation colorant (eosin) from step 1 are mixed in one or more ester oils, then added to the step 2 mixture and homogenized for 3 to 10 minutes, especially for 5 minutes, then the preparation is passed through the mixer (ex Turrax®) for 1 to 5 minutes, especially 2 minutes.

[0110] The liquid composition resulting from this preparation process is advantageously transparent or translucent in its mass, when hot, before it cools and solidifies (it then tends to become opaque due to the presence of waxes). By 'hot', we mean at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of the waxes present in the composition.

[0111] The composition is then packaged in a pot or container, or molded into a stick.

[0112] According to another particular embodiment, the process for preparing a fluid composition (e.g., gloss) of the invention will advantageously comprise the following steps:

[0113] a) eosin (Orange 5) is homogenized in one or more ester oils, in particular hydroxylated ester oils, and passed through a mill, in particular passed 3 times through a three-roll mill;

[0114] 1b) the ground material obtained in step aa is mixed with the C3-C8 diol and heated (e.g., bath marie) at a temperature of 60°C to 80°C, in particular 70°C for 5 to 15 minutes, in particular 10 minutes, then the mixture is added to the rest of the ester oils also at a temperature of 60°C to 70°C minimum, in particular 65°C minimum for at least 45 minutes, in particular at least 60 minutes;

[0115] 2) the mixture obtained in step 1b is added to the mixture comprising the gelling agent lipophilic and other oils (e.g., nonpolar oil), which has been previously heated to a temperature ranging from 60°C to 80°C, in particular 70°C;

[0116] 3) the mixture obtained in step 2 is mixed for 10 to 20 minutes, in particular 15 minutes at a temperature ranging from 60°C to 80°C, in particular 70°C until a homogeneous fluid composition is obtained.

[0117] The composition is then packaged in a small bottle or other packaging, preferably transparent. GALENIQUE

[0118] The composition of the invention can be of a solid to pasty or fluid to liquid texture.

[0119] By 'fluid to liquid' according to the invention, we mean a composition which flows under its own weight at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atmosphere).

[0120] By 'solid to pasty' according to the invention, we mean a composition which is neither fluid nor liquid according to the preceding definition.

[0121] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a fluid anhydrous composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0122] A fat-soluble colorant Orange 5,

[0123] One or more C3-C8 diols, in particular pentylene glycol or caprylyl glycol, preferably caprylyl glycol

[0124] A polar oil, preferably an ester oil,

[0125] A non-polar oil,

[0126] A lipophilic gelling agent,

[0127] And possibly in addition an additional colouring material distinct from Orange 5.

[0128] According to a particular mode, the fluid composition of the invention is in the form of a gloss, a serum, an oily gel, an oil, a liquid blush, in particular for makeup of the lips or cheeks.

[0129] In particular, it will be a gloss or oily gel for the lips.

[0130] According to another method, it will be a liquid blush for the cheeks.

[0131] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention is a composition anhydrous solid comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0132] A fat-soluble colorant Orange 5,

[0133] One or more C3-C8 diols, preferably pentylene glycol,

[0134] A polar oil, preferably an ester oil

[0135] A non-polar oil,

[0136] A wax,

[0137] A pasty compound,

[0138] And possibly in addition an additional colouring material distinct from Orange 5.

[0139] According to a particular method, the solid composition is in the form of a stick, a compact powder, an eyeshadow, a blush or cheek powder, especially for makeup of the skin (e.g. eyelids, cheeks), or of the lips.

[0140] In particular, it will be a lip balm.

[0141] In another way, it will be an eyeshadow or a blush. PROCESS

[0142] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for skincare and / or makeup, particularly of the lips, comprising the application to the skin or lips of a composition as defined according to the invention.

[0143] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises a liposoluble dye Orange 5 and pentylene glycol.

[0144] According to another particular mode, advantageously in the case of fluid compositions, the composition of the invention comprises a liposoluble dye Orange 5 and caprylyl glycol.

[0145] According to a particular method, the composition applied to the skin or lips, preferably the lips, is a fluid anhydrous composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0146] A fat-soluble colorant Orange 5,

[0147] One or more C3-C8 diols, in particular pentylene glycol or caprylyl glycol, and preferably caprylyl glycol,

[0148] A polar oil, preferably an ester oil,

[0149] A non-polar oil,

[0150] A lipophilic gelling agent,

[0151] And possibly in addition an additional colouring material distinct from Orange 5.

[0152] According to a particular method, the fluid composition applied to the skin or lips is in the form of a gloss, a serum, an oily gel, an oil, a liquid blush, especially for lip or cheek makeup.

[0153] In particular, it will be a gloss or oily gel for the lips or a liquid blush for the cheeks.

[0154] According to a particular method, the composition applied to the skin or lips, preferably the lips, is a solid anhydrous composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0155] A fat-soluble colorant Orange 5,

[0156] One or more C3-C8 diols, preferably pentylene glycol,

[0157] A polar oil, preferably an ester oil

[0158] A non-polar oil,

[0159] A wax,

[0160] A pasty compound,

[0161] And possibly in addition an additional colouring material distinct from Orange 5.

[0162] According to a particular method, the solid composition applied to the skin or lips is in the form of a stick, a compact powder, an eyeshadow, a blush or cheek powder, especially for makeup of the skin (e.g., eyelids, cheeks), or of the lips.

[0163] In particular, it will be a lip balm, an eyeshadow or a blush.

[0164] The color of Orange 5 is revealed upon application of the composition to the skin or the lips, especially on the lips.

[0165] This gives the user a natural makeup look and a healthy glow.

[0166] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Percentages are expressed as a percentage by weight of ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0167] Example 1: Mass color of eosins and specificity of Orange 5

[0168] The Applicant observed different behavior of Orange 5 compared to the conventional eosins of type DC Red 21 (or equivalent DC Red27).

[0169] Two solid formulas (sticks) were prepared, respectively with DC Red 21 (classic eosin, reference) and Orange 5 (invention).

[0170] [Tables] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight DC Red 21 (reference) % by weight Orange 5 (invention) Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate QsplOO QsplOO Sunflower oil 15 15 Di-(phytosteryl octyldodecyl) N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate 10 10 Paste compounds 32 32 Vegetable waxes 7 7 Diisostearyl malate 0.02 0.02 Propyl gallate 0.0003 0.0003 Titanium dioxide 0.12 0.12 DC Red 21 (CI 45380) 0.06 - Orange 5 (CI 45370) - 0.06

[0171] The compositions are prepared according to the following same protocol: - step 1: eosin (Orange 5 or DC Red 21) is homogenized in a mixture of diisostearyl malate and propyl gallate and passed 3 times through a three-roll mill; - step 2: the emollients, waxes and paste compounds are placed in a water bath at 95 °C and subjected to agitation for 15 minutes to form a homogeneous mixture; - step 3: titanium dioxide is mixed into polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate and then passed 3 times through a three-roll mill to form a titanium dioxide dispersion; - step 4: the titanium dioxide dispersion from step 3 and the color preparation (eosin) from step 1 are mixed in polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, then added to the mixture from step 2 and homogenized for 5 minutes, then the preparation is passed through Turrax® for 2 minutes.

[0172] The compositions are then evaluated by lip product experts, by observing their mass tint.

[0173] The results are presented in the following table:

[0174] [Tables2] Dye tested in the composition DCRed21* DC Orange 5 Product observation (color in the mass) Neutral tint No color in the mass Orange tint Appearance of an orange color in the mass

[0175] *a similar result would be obtained by replacing DC Red 21 with DC Red 27, another classic eosin.

[0176] These results show that Orange 5, unlike classic eosins (DC Red21 and DC Red27), has the disadvantage of tinting the composition in the mass, which is not desirable (instability of the hue of compositions and / or coloring of neutral hues, whereas we are looking for a revelation of the Orange 5 color only at the application).

[0177] The Applicant therefore sought to reduce or even prevent this colouring effect in the mass by Orange 5.

[0178] Example 2: Effect of polar raw materials on the stabilization of Orange 5 in the composition

[0179] Several polar compounds were tested to neutralize this eosin in the bulk, without affecting the application color. The polar compounds and concentrations tested are respectively:

[0180] Alcohol: 1 g and 2 g

[0181] Octyldodecanol: 1 g and 2 g

[0182] Propylene glycol: 1.5g

[0183] Butylene glycol: 2g

[0184] Pentylene glycol: 2g

[0185] Caprylyl glycol: 2g

[0186] Glycerol: 2g

[0187] Polyglycerin-3: 2g

[0188] These polar compounds were tested in the same compositional basis comprising:

[0189] [Tables3] Ingredients (INCI name) Quantity (in g) (total 45.85 g) Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate Qs Sunflower oil 16.55 Di(phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate 11 Orange 5 CI 45370 0.06 Diisostearyl malate 0.2397 Propyl gallate 0.0003 Polar compound X 1 or 2 g

[0190] Orange 5 is pre-mixed in diisostearyl malate and propyl gallate. This preparation is mixed with the other oils and the polar compound to be tested, in a water bath at 80°C, and with stirring for 45 to 60 minutes.

[0191] The effect of each polar compound on the neutralization of Orange 5 in bulk was then evaluated. The disappearance of the color in bulk was sought through the addition of the polar compound (intended to open the ring of Orange 5). The results are recorded as follows:

[0192] “yes”: disappearance of color in the mass (neutralization of orange 5 by the polar compound);

[0193] “no”: no disappearance of color in the mass (no neutralization of Orange 5 by the polar compound).

[0194] The results are presented in the following table:

[0195] [Tables4] Polar compound X Neutralization of orange 5 in the mass (disappearance of color) Ethanol no Octyldodecanol no Propylene glycol yes Butylene glycol yes Pentylene glycol yes Caprylyl glycol yes Vegetable glycerol yes Polyglycerin-3 yes

[0196] These results show that C3-C8 diols, vegetable glycerol and polyglycerin-3 are able to neutralize orange 5 in the mass and prevent the colouring of the tint in the mass.

[0197] Example 3: Optimization of the selection of polar compounds according to the compositional aspect

[0198] Polar compounds that responded to the Orange 5 neutralization test in bulk are also evaluated according to the appearance of the final composition, after mixing the basic composition A (45.85g) described above with Orange 5 and the polar compound, with composition B (qsp 100g) comprising the emollients, paste compounds and vegetable waxes described in Example 1.

[0199] The preparation of the final composition is thus carried out according to the following protocol: - Composition B comprising the emollients, waxes and paste compounds are placed in a water bath at 95 °C and subjected to agitation for 15 minutes; - The base composition A, comprising Orange 5, oils and polar compound X, is mixed with polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, then added to composition B and homogenized for 5 minutes, then the final composition is passed through Turrax® for 2 minutes.

[0200] In particular, the final hot compositions (e.g., 80°C to 95°C, a temperature above the melting point of waxes), packaged in transparent pillboxes, are assessed visually, using the following notations:

[0201] ++++ : perfectly transparent

[0202] +++: translucent with a very slight cloudiness, barely perceptible

[0203] ++: translucent with a slight cloudiness

[0204] - : transparent but with an unsolubilized deposit at the bottom of the pillbox (unsuitable for use in cosmetics)

[0205] The definitions of transparent or translucent in mass are as defined previously in the description.

[0206] The results are presented in the following table:

[0207] [Tables5] Polar compound X Appearance of the composition when hot (80°C-95°C) Propylene glycol ++ Butylene glycol ++ Pentylene glycol ++++ Caprylyl glycol +++ Vegetable glycerol - Polyglycerin-3 -

[0208] These results show that only C3-C8 diols, among all the polar compounds tested, make it possible to avoid colouring in the mass by Orange 5, without impacting (or very slightly impacting) the stability of the composition (ingredients well solubilised, homogeneous composition) and the appearance of the composition (transparent or translucent) when hot.

[0209] Pentylene glycol is the preferred diol according to the invention, particularly for solid stick formulations.

[0210] Caprylyl glycol is also a good candidate for solid stick and liquid formulations.

[0211] Similar tests in fluid formulations have even shown that caprylyl glycol was the preferred diol for fluid formulations.

[0212] Thus, in stick compositions, C3-C8 diols, preferably pentylene glycol, will be used according to the invention.

[0213] And in fluid compositions, according to the invention, C3-C8 diols will be used, preferably caprylyl glycol.

[0214] The compositions of the invention will thus have a neutral tint in the mass (if no other colorants than Orange 5 are present) or a slightly colored tint (if additional colorants besides Orange 5 are present). After application to the lips, the film is transparent with a revelation of the Orange 5 color on the lips (orange tint), giving a healthy glow.

[0215] Example 4: Effect on bulk colour stability also in humid atmospheres

[0216] The following stick compositions were prepared:

[0217]

[0218]

[0219]

[0220] [Tableauxô] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight (comparative without pentylene glycol) % by weight (invention with pentylene glycol) Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate QsplOO QsplOO Sunflower oil 16 16 Di(phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate 11 11 Paste compounds 32 32 Vegetable waxes 9 9 Diisostearyl malate 0.3 0.3 Propyl gallate 0.0004 0.0004 Titanium dioxide 0.12 0.12 Orange 5 CI 45370 (UNICERT ORANGE K7003) 0.08 0.08 Pentylene glycol - 2.0 The solid compositions are prepared according to the protocol of example 1: step 1a: eosin (Orange 5) is homogenized in a mixture of dii-sostearyl malate and propyl gallate and passed 3 times through a three-roll mill; step 1b: the millings obtained in step 1a are mixed with pentylene glycol and heated (water bath) at 80°C for 60 minutes, then the mixture is added to the rest of the oils also at 80°C; step 2: the emollients, waxes and paste compounds are placed in a water bath at 95 °C and subjected to agitation for 15 minutes to form a homogeneous mixture; step 3: titanium dioxide is mixed into polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate and then passed 3 times through a three-roll mill to form a titanium dioxide dispersion; step 4: the titanium dioxide dispersion from step 3 and the color preparation (eosin) from step 1 are mixed in polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, then added to the mixture from step 2 and homogenized for 5 minutes, then the preparation is passed through Turrax® for 2 minutes. The final composition is then molded into a stick. At T0, immediately after the preparation of the stick, we observe that the composition The version without pentylene glycol (comparative) became colored throughout due to the presence of Orange 5, whereas the version with pentylene glycol (invention) did not become colored throughout (it is said to be neutral). Upon application to the lips, the film is transparent, revealing the color of Orange 5 on the lips (orange tint), giving a healthy glow.

[0221] The Applicant further observed that neutralizing the bulk color of orange 5 with pentylene glycol (or another C3-C8 diol according to the invention) results in a bulk color that is stable at room temperature, but also in a humid atmosphere. Indeed, tests were carried out at room temperature and after being placed in a humid oven (40°C / 85% humidity) for a period of one month (but the results and differences are observable after just one week).

[0222] The observed results are presented in the following table:

[0223] [Tables?] With Orange 5 WITHOUT pentylene glycol (comparison) With Orange 5 and pentylene glycol (invention) Color of the composition at room temperature Coloration in the mass due to Orange 5 No color in the mass. Neutral color. Color of the composition in a humid atmosphere Decrease in color in the mass, but the color remains visible No color in the mass. Neutral color.

[0224] The presence of pentylene glycol therefore allows for a neutral color in the mass, and stable at ambient temperature and in humid atmosphere, which is advantageous in environments where the products are exposed to high temperature and high humidity conditions.

[0225] Example 5: Neutralizing effect also in fluid compositions Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight (comparative) % by weight (invention) Ester oils and polybutene QsplOO QsplOO Di(phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate 5 5 Lipophilic gelling agent (hydrogenated polyisobutene) 37 37 Diisostearyl malate 0.1 0.1 Propyl gallate 0.0001 0.0001 Titanium dioxide 0.12 0.12 Orange 5 CI 45370 (UNICERT ORANGE K7003) 0.03 0.03 Pentylene glycol - 2.0

[0227]

[0228]

[0229]

[0230]

[0231]

[0232] The fluid compositions are prepared according to the following protocol: - Step 1: eosin (Orange 5) is homogenized in a mixture of dii-sostearyl malate and propyl gallate and passed 3 times through a three-roll mill; - Step 1b: the ground material obtained in step 1a is mixed with pentylene glycol and heated (water bath) to 65°C for 10 minutes, then the mixture is added to the rest of the ester oils also at a minimum of 65°C for at least 60 minutes; - Step 2: the mixture obtained in step 1b is added to the mixture comprising the lipophilic gelling agent and the polybutene, which has been previously heated to 70°C; - Step 3: The mixture obtained in step 2 is mixed for 15 minutes at 70°C until a homogeneous fluid composition is obtained. It was observed that the composition without pentylene glycol (comparative) becomes coloured in the mass due to the presence of Orange 5, whereas the one with pentylene glycol (invention) does not become coloured in the mass (neutral tint) but clearly reveals the colour of Orange 5 when applied to the lips. Even better results were obtained with caprylyl glycol as a replacement for pentylene glycol in this fluid formula. Thus, for fluid formulas, caprylyl glycol will be advantageously used. Example 6: Illustrative and non-limiting examples of compositions according to the invention 6-in-1 Lip Stick (mass neutral base) Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate QsplOO Sunflower oil 16 Di(phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate 11 Paste compounds 32 Vegetable waxes 9 Diisostearyl malate 0.3 Propyl gallate 0.0004 Titanium dioxide 0.12 Orange 5 CI 45370 (UNICERT ORANGE K7003) 0.08 Butylene glycol 2.0

[0234] The composition is prepared as described in example 4.

[0235] The tint of the mass composition is neutral. Upon application to the lips, the film is transparent with a revelation of the Orange 5 color on the lips (orange tint), giving a healthy glow effect.

[0236] 6-2 Lip Stick (very lightly coloured base)

[0237] [TableauxlO] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate QsplOO Sunflower oil 16 Di(phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate 11 Paste compounds 32 Vegetable waxes 9 Diisostearyl malate 0.3 Propyl gallate 0.0004 Titanium dioxide 0.12 Red iron oxide 0.19 FDC Yellow 6 Al Lake 0.06 Orange 5 CI 45370 (UNICERT ORANGE K7003) 0.08 Pentylene glycol 2.0

[0238] The composition is prepared as described in example 4.

[0239] The tint of the bulk composition is very slightly colored by the other coloring agents present (red iron oxide and FDC yellow 6 al lake), excluding Orange 5, to provide a range of different bulk tints for the consumer. Upon application to the lips, the film is transparent, revealing the color of Orange 5 on the lips (orange tint), giving a healthy glow.

[0240] 6-3 Lip Gloss (mass neutral base) Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight (invention) Ester oils and polybutene QsplOO Di(phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate 5 Lipophilic gelling agent (hydrogenated polyisobutene) 37 Diisostearyl malate 0.1 Propyl gallate 0.0001 Titanium dioxide 0.12 Orange 5 CI 45370 (UNICERT ORANGE K7003) 0.03 Caprylyl glycol 2.0

[0242] The composition is prepared as described in example 5.

[0243] The composition in mass is neutral in color. Upon application to the lips, the film is transparent, revealing the color of Orange 5 on the lips (orange tint), giving a healthy glow.

[0244] 6-4 Lip Gloss (very lightly coloured base)

[0245] [Tables 12] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight (invention) Ester oils and polybutene QsplOO Di(phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate 5 Lipophilic gelling agent (hydrogenated polyisobutene) 37 Diisostearyl malate 0.1 Propyl gallate 0.0001 Titanium dioxide 0.12 DC Red 6 Na Sait 0.003 Orange 5 CI 45370 (UNICERT ORANGE K7003) 0.03 Pentylene glycol 2

[0246] The composition is prepared as described in example 5.

[0247] The tint of the mass composition is very slightly colored by the other coloring materials present (DC Red 6 Na Sait), excluding Orange 5. When applied to the lips, the film is transparent with a revelation of the color of Orange 5 on the lips (orange tint), giving a healthy glow effect.

Claims

Demands

1. Anhydrous cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: A liposoluble colorant Orange 5; One or more C3-C8 diols and One or more polar oil(s) selected from among the hydroxylated ester(s).

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the diol(s) are selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof; in particular pentylene glycol and caprylyl glycol.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the fat-soluble colorant Orange 5 is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 0.2% by weight, preferably from 0.015 to 0.15% relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the total content of C3-C8 diols in the composition ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, preferably again from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional ingredient selected from the group consisting of non-polar oils, lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fats, waxes, fillers, coloring materials distinct from Orange 5, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises less than 1% by weight of additional coloring materials, in particular less than 0.5% by weight of additional coloring materials, or is devoid of additional coloring materials.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is a fluid composition, in particular in the form of a gloss, a serum, an oily gel, an oil, a liquid blush, in particular for lip or cheek makeup.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is a solid composition, in particular under

9. in the form of a stick, a compact powder, an eyeshadow, a blush or a cheek powder, particularly for skin or lip makeup. A cosmetic method for skin or lip care and / or makeup, particularly for the lips, comprising applying to the skin or lips a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8.