Cosmetic hair care composition comprising particular amino silicones and perfume substances, and method for cosmetic hair treatment.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic hair care composition comprising: - one or more particular amino silicones, having an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.29 meq / g and a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 10,000 to 100,000; and - one or more perfuming substances. The invention also relates to a method for cosmetic hair treatment using said composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic hair care composition comprising particular amino silicones and perfume substances, and method for cosmetic treatment of hair.

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic hair care composition comprising one or more particular amino silicones and one or more perfuming substances, as well as a method for cosmetic hair treatment using said composition.

[0002] Hair is sensitive to many types of aggression and can be weakened and damaged to varying degrees by the external environment, in particular by the action of atmospheric agents such as light, atmospheric pollution and bad weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening, or even repeated washing.

[0003] The properties of damaged hair are then degraded and various manifestations of the damage can be observed, such as difficulty in detangling and styling the hair, lack of softness of the hair, hair which can in the long run become dry, brittle or dull, particularly in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.

[0004] To overcome these drawbacks, and in particular to repair damaged hair, it is common to use cosmetic hair compositions intended to condition the hair by providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties. Current compositions generally aim to reduce surface defects in the hair, in particular via the deposition of compounds with a conditioning valence such as silicones, and more particularly amino silicones. The effects obtained are generally based on the use of high levels of silicones, which can, however, have the disadvantage of weighing down, or losing lightness, the hair.

[0005] Furthermore, although there are many hair repair care formulas, they generally do not provide the hair with entirely satisfactory and long-lasting cosmetic properties, particularly when the hair is very weakened, sensitized or damaged. Thus, it has been found that for the most damaged hair, the level of care may be insufficient; in particular, the smoothness (visual and to the touch) of the hair and its softness can still be improved.

[0006] Furthermore, the perception of these effects is generally only possible at the time of application and within a few hours following.

[0007] Finally, the use of high levels of silicone may be perceived unfavorably by consumers.

[0008] The invention therefore aims to propose a cosmetic hair care composition which solves the problems mentioned above, and in particular will provide a high level of care and conditioning, in particular to the most damaged hair, these effects being perceptible even at low levels of amino silicone.

[0009] The present invention also aims to provide compositions which perform well in terms of cosmetic properties provided to the hair, on the one hand at the time of application and on the other hand over time.

[0010] Furthermore, it is known that cosmetic compositions can comprise perfume substances which can be released during the application of the composition and, advantageously, can be deposited on the hair to then be released over time (this is called the persistence of the perfume).

[0011] However, there is still a need for compositions allowing better deposition of the perfume substances on the hair, or at least a deposition which will result in a more lasting release, a better persistence of the perfume substances from the hair, while retaining the usage and cosmetic properties provided by the composition.

[0012] The present invention also aims to provide a composition which makes it possible to obtain an adequate deposit as well as good persistence of the perfuming substances on the hair, in particular on weakened, sensitized or damaged hair.

[0013] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic hair care composition comprising:

[0014] - one or more amino silicones of formula (I) as defined below, and

[0015] - one or more perfuming substances.

[0016] It has been found that the composition according to the invention rinses easily, which makes it possible to avoid the use of large quantities of water to remove it if necessary, for example when the composition is in the form of a shampoo or conditioner to be rinsed out.

[0017] After application, it provides a good level of care, in particular a smooth feel and appearance, softness, a homogeneous coating from root to tip and therefore repair of damaged tips, as well as a clean and natural feel, without weighing down, of the hair. The care and repair benefits are very marked while maintaining an added value of lightness and cleanliness.

[0018] Better curl definition was also observed when the composition was applied to curly hair, as well as a disciplining and controlling effect on the hair, and good volume control.

[0019] These effects of care and lightness and clean touch are significant from the moment of application and remain perceptible for at least 24 hours, or until the next shampoo. They can even persist after shampooing.

[0020] Furthermore, these cosmetic performances, in particular detangling, softness, smoothness and coating, can advantageously be obtained with a low silicone content, in particular a lower content than the content usually used.

[0021] Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention give off a pleasant odor of good intensity during application; it has also been found that the odor provided by the cosmetic compositions according to the invention tends to fade less quickly after application, and has better persistence, in particular when they are applied to damaged hair.

[0022] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0023] - the term “molecular weight” is equivalent to the term “molecular mass”;

[0024] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be substituted for it; - the expression “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included.

[0025] By "cosmetic hair care composition" is meant, in the context of the invention, a cosmetic composition for washing (or cleaning) the hair, and / or for conditioning the hair.

[0026] Said composition can be presented in any form conceivable by a person skilled in the art, and include the additional ingredients usually used in this type of composition.

[0027] This cosmetic composition for hair care, in particular for washing and / or conditioning the hair, may be, for example, a shampoo, a pre-shampoo (to be applied before shampooing), a conditioner, a hair mask, a hair serum, these compositions being able to be rinsed or not rinsed (leave-in) after application.

[0028] The composition can be presented, in a known manner, in the form of gels, hair lotions and more or less thick care creams.

[0029] In the context of the present invention, the cosmetic hair care composition is advantageously a shampoo, a conditioner or a hair mask, these compositions being able to be rinsed or not rinsed after application.

[0030] The composition can therefore comprise, in a known manner, one or more surfactants, one or more non-silicone fatty substances, one or more additional silicones, one or more polymers, one or more thickeners, one or more polyols, as well as a mixture of these different ingredients. Amino silicone

[0031] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones of formula (I): CH, | R..........Yes........ CH3 I

[0032] in which:

[0033] - R, identical or different, represents a methyl group (CH3), a hydroxy radical (OH) or an alkoxy group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms (OR1 with RI = C1-C4 alkyl);

[0034] - R' represents a methyl group (CH3) or a hydroxy radical (OH);

[0035] - A is a divalent, linear or branched alkylene group comprising 3 or 4 atoms of carbon;

[0036] the amino silicone having an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.29 meq / g and a weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 10,000 to 100,000.

[0037] Preferably, R, identical or different, represents a methyl group and / or a hydroxy radical. Better still, the two radicals R are identical, and represent a methyl group or a hydroxy radical, even better still a methyl radical.

[0038] Preferably, R' represents a methyl group.

[0039] Preferably, A is a linear divalent alkylene group comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear group comprising 3 carbon atoms (-CH2CH2CH2 -)•

[0040] In formula (I), the values of n and m are chosen such that the amino silicone has an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.29 meq / g and a weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 10,000 to 100,000.

[0041] Preferably, the amino silicone of formula (I) has an amine index ranging from 0.1 to 0.25 meq / g, better still ranging from 0.1 to 0.19 meq / g, even better still ranging from 0.1 to 0.16 meq / g.

[0042] Preferably, the amino silicone of formula (I) has a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 20,000 to 70,000, better still from 25,000 to 50,000, even better still from 35,000 to 45,000.

[0043] A person skilled in the art will be able to determine, on the basis of his general knowledge, the values of n and m in order to obtain a silicone having the amine index and the molar mass lecular sought.

[0044] Preferably, in formula (I), m is between 1.4 and 13, better between 1.4 and 9, even better between 1.5 and 5; and the ratio n / m is between 45 and 330, better between 100 and 300.

[0045] The value of n can then easily be determined based on all of these data; in particular, n can be between 400 and 600.

[0046] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones of formula (I): r: p» -p (I) CH, | CH? R* i CH? R----------Si —b----------Si----------4----------io - Si--------i—O—Si—R CH. CK i A | CH., * i in iii NH.

[0047] in which:

[0048] - R, identical, and R' represent a methyl group,

[0049] - A is a divalent, linear or branched alkylene group comprising 3 or 4 atoms of carbon; preferably a linear divalent alkylene group comprising 3 carbon atoms (-CH2CH2CH2-),

[0050] the amino silicone has an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.19 meq / g and a weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 25,000 to 50,000.

[0051] Preferably, in this embodiment, m is between 1.4 and 13, the ratio n / m is between 45 and 300 and n can be between 400 and 600.

[0052] The amino silicone of formula (I) preferably has a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25°C, 1 atm, ranging from 2 to 8 Pa.s (2000-8000 cps), better still from 3 to 6 Pa.s (3000-6000 cps), even better still from 3 to 5 Pa.s.

[0053] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the amino silicone(s) of formula (I) in a total content which may range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.002 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.005 to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, preferentially from 0.02 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] The amino silicone of formula (I) can be prepared by any means usually employed in the silicone industry. Perfume substances

[0055] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more perfuming substances.

[0056] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “perfuming substance” is intended to denote any perfume, any odorous raw material or aroma capable of releasing a pleasant odor. “Perfuming”, “odorous” or “odoriferous” substances are synonymous for the purposes of the present invention.

[0057] The fragrance substances may in particular comprise the raw materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, NJ, 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, NJ, 1960) and in “Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991”, Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, 111.

[0058] The perfuming substances can advantageously be chosen from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and their mixtures.

[0059] These may be natural products, such as essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes, and / or synthetic products, such as terpene or sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles, peroxides, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic.

[0060] According to the definition given in the international standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is an odorous product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation, or by dry distillation, or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process which does not cause a significant change in the composition.

[0061] The choice of the method for obtaining essential oils depends mainly on the raw material: its original state and its characteristics, its nature itself. The “essential oil / plant raw material” yield can be extremely variable depending on the plants: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice determines the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, color, solubility, volatility, enrichment or impoverishment in certain constituents.

[0062] Steam distillation corresponds to the vaporization in the presence of water vapor of a substance that is poorly miscible with water. The raw material is placed in the presence of boiling water or water vapor in a still. The water vapor entrains the essential oil vapor which is condensed in the condenser to be recovered in liquid phase in a Florentine vase (or essencier) where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The aqueous distillate that remains after steam distillation, once the separation of the essential oil has been carried out, is called "aromatic water" or "hydrosol" or "floral distilled water."

[0063] Obtaining by dry distillation consists of obtaining the essential oil by distillation of wood, bark or roots, without adding water or water vapor in a closed enclosure designed so that the liquid is recovered in its lower part. Cade oil constitutes the best known example of this method of obtaining.

[0064] The cold expression method only applies to citrus fruits (Citrus spp) by mechanical processes at room temperature. The principle of the method is as follows: the zests are shredded and the contents of the secretory pockets that have been broken are recovered by a physical process. The classic process consists of exerting an abrasive action on the entire surface of the fruit under a stream of water. After removing the solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial installations actually allow the simultaneous or sequential recovery of fruit juices and essential oil.

[0065] Essential oils are generally volatile and liquid at room temperature (25°C), which differentiates them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in common organic solvents, entrainable by water vapor, very slightly soluble in water.

[0066] Among the essential oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families, alone or in a mixture: Abietaceae or Pinaceae, for example conifers; Amaryllidaceae; Anacardiaceae; Anonaceae, for example ylang; Apiaceae, for example umbellifers, in particular dill, angelica, coriander, fennel, carrot or parsley; Araceae; Aristolochiaceae; Asteraceae for example yarrow, mugwort, chamomile, and helichrysum; Betulaceae; Brassicaceae; Burseraceae, for example frankincense; Caryophyllaceae; Canellaceae; Caesalpiniaceae for example copaifera (copahu); Chenopodaceae; Cistaceae for example cistus; Cyperaceae; Dipterocarpaceae; Ericaceae e.g. wintergreen; Euphorbiaceae; Fabaceae; Geraniaceae e.g. geranium; Guttiferae; Hamamelidaceae; Hernandiaceae; Hypericaceae e.g. St. John's wort; Iridaceae;Juglandaceae; Lamiaceae, for example thyme, oregano, bee balm, savory, basil, marjoram, mint, patchouli, lavender, sage, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, lemon balm, rosemary; Lauraceae, for example ravensara, bay, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea; Liliaceae, for example garlic; Magnoliaceae, for example magnolia; Malvaceae; Meliaceae; Monimiaceae; Moraceae, for example hemp, or hops; Myricaceae; Myristicaceae, for example nutmeg; Myrtaceae, for example eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backhousia, the; cloves, myrtle; Oleaceae; Piperaceae, e.g. pepper; Pittosporaceae; Poaceae, e.g. lemongrass, lemongrass, vetiver; Polygonaceae; Ranunculaceae; Rosaceae, e.g. roses; Rubiaceae; Rutaceae, e.g. all citrus fruits; Salicaceae; Santalaceae, e.g. sandalwood; Saxifragaceae; Schisandraceae; Styracaceae, e.g. benzoin; Thymelaceae, e.g. agarwood; Tilliaceae; Valerianaceae, e.g. valerian, spikenard; Verbenaceae, e.g. lantana, verbena; Violaceae; Zingiberaceae, e.g. galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger; Zygophyllaceae.

[0067] Mention may also be made of essential oils extracted from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli), stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petitgrain), fruits (coriander, anise, cumin, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, sweet flag, ginger), wood (pine wood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, rose cedar, camphor), herbs and grasses (tarragon, rosemary, basil, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, frankincense, opopanax).

[0068] Examples of perfuming substances include: geraniol, geranyl acetate, famesol, borneol, bomyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinalool, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, di-hydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzoate benzyl, amyl salicylate, dimethylbenzyl carbinol, trichloromethylphenylcarbinyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, isononyl acetate, vetiveryl acetate, vetiverol, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2-methyl-3-(p-tert-butylphenyl)propanal,2-methyl-3-(p-isopropylphenyl)propanal, 3-(p-tert-butylphenyl)propanal, 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-enyl-carboxaldehyde, tricyclodecenyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionate, 4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-(4-methyl 1-3-penteny 1)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyl-tetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl-2-pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-4-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, menthone, carvone, tagetone, geranyl acetone, n-decanal, n-dodecanal, 9-decenol-l, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyl acetal, phenylacetaldehyde diethyl acetal, geranonitrile, citronellonitrile, cedryl acetate, 3-isocamphylcyclohexanol, cedryl methyl ether, isolongifolanone, , hawpinonitrile, hawthorn, heliotropin, coumarin, eugenol, vanillin, diphenyl ether, citral, citronellal, hydroxycitronellal, damascone, ionones, methylionones, isomethylionones, solanone, irones, cis-3-hexenol and its esters, musk indans, musk tetralins, musk isochromans, macrocyclic ketones, musk macrolactones, aliphatic musks, ethylene brassylate and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Preferably, a mixture of different perfuming substances can be used, which, when combined, will generate a pleasant note for the user.

[0070] Thus, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a mixture of perfuming substances, in particular of at least two distinct perfuming substances, and preferably of at least three distinct perfuming substances.

[0071] It is thus possible to choose, preferably, the perfuming substances in such a way that they produce notes (head, heart and base) in the following families: hesperides, aromatics, floral notes in particular pink flowers and white flowers, spicy, woody, gourmand, chypre, fern, leather, and musk.

[0072] Preferably, the perfuming substance(s) used in the composition according to the invention are distinct from the essential oils.

[0073] The composition according to the invention can use one or more natural perfuming substances, preferably producing notes in the following families: floral notes, in particular pink flowers and white flowers, gourmands, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] The composition according to the invention can also use one or more perfuming substances belonging to the floral, green, hesperidic, ozonic, marine, aldehyde, musky, powdery, sweet woody olfactory families.

[0075] The composition according to the invention can also use one or more perfuming substances belonging to the edible, spicy, leathery and possibly fruity, balsamic and aromatic olfactory families.

[0076] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the perfuming substance(s) in a total content which may range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 3% by weight, preferentially from 0.6 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional silicones

[0077] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additional silicones, which may in particular be chosen from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0078] The additional silicone(s) are different from the amino silicones of formula (I) as defined above.

[0079] This means that said additional silicones do not fall within the definition of formula (I), for example because they do not have an amine index and / or a molecular mass as defined for the silicones of formula (I) and / or because the meaning of at least one of their radicals R, R' and / or A is different from those indicated for the silicones of formula (I) or because they have a chemical structure different from that of the silicones of formula (I).

[0080] The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise one or more non-amino silicones, which may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the non-amino silicones are chosen from non-volatile liquid silicones.

[0081] The non-amino silicones that can be used can be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0082] Silicones are notably described in detail in the work of Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.

[0083] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure 1 atm), in particular from:

[0084] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as

[0085] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). may cite the products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.

[0086] - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type with structure chemical: ।— D D'--------D—D' —i CH- 1 CH, UI ' with D. — Ss-O— with D': -&-O — - c s h 47

[0087] We can cite the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

[0088] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl-pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0089] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atonies, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0090] Other silicones falling within this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; we can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.

[0091] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated groups.

[0092] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0093] Among the organomodified silicones, we can cite organopolysiloxanes comprising:

[0094] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups comprising even actually C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from the company UNION CARBIDE; or alkyl(Ci2)-methicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;

[0095] - thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE;

[0096] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name “SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755” by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;

[0097] - hydroxyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with hy- function droxyalkyl;

[0098] - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in the US patent No. 4,957,732.

[0099] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255".

[0100] The silicones can also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, we can cite the following commercial products:

[0101] - SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils commercially available marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0102] - the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;

[0103] - DOW CORNING company 200 series oils such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm2 / s;

[0104] - VISCASIL® oils from MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS.

[0105] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (CTFA: dimethiconol) such as the oils of series 48 from the company RHODIA.

[0106] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also cite the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

[0107] Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:

[0108] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING.

[0109] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.105 to 5.10 2m2 / s at 25°C.

[0110] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can cite the products marketed under the following names:

[0111] - SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA;

[0112] - oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;

[0113] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

[0114] - BAYER PK series silicones such as the product PK20;

[0115] - silicones of the PN, PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;

[0116] - certain oils from the SF series of MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0117] The non-amino silicones more particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

[0118] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional amino silicones, different from the amino silicones of formula (I) as defined above.

[0119] Amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0120] The amino silicones that can be used according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1*105 to 1 m2 / s. Preferably, the additional amino silicones are chosen from non-volatile liquid silicones (25°C, 1 atm).

[0121] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:

[0122] A) polysiloxanes corresponding to the formula (la):

[0123] in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol;

[0124] B) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (IIa):

[0125] R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a (Ha)

[0126] in which:

[0127] - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, C1-C8 alkyl, for example methyl or C1-C8 alkoxy, for example methoxy, - a, a', identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,

[0128] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0129] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0130] - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+ H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A , -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A , -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-QN +(R”)3 A, in which R”, which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a CrC2o alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0131] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (IIa) may be chosen from:

[0132] (i) “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (III):

[0133] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

[0134] (ii) silicones of the following formula (IV):

[0135] in which:

[0136] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0137] - Rb R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C 1 -C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical.

[0138] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0139] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0140] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200,000 g / mol.

[0141] (iii) silicones of the following formula (V):

[0142] in which:

[0143] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0144] - Ri, R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, one at less radicals Ri or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0145] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0146] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0147] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.

[0148] Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (IV) or (V). A product containing amino silicones of structure (IV) is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing amino silicones of structure (V) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing amino silicones of structure (XIV) is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

[0149] When these amino silicones are implemented, a particular embodiment

[0150] Particularly interesting is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but preferably cationic and / or non-ionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (inclusive). Thus, according to the invention, the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER may be used. (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI):

[0151]

[0152]

[0153]

[0154]

[0155] in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone with this formula is, for example, XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING. (v) silicones of the following formula (VII):

[0156] in which:

[0157] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in par particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0158] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0159] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone with this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.

[0160] C) amino silicones corresponding to formula (VIII):

[0161] in which:

[0162] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 atoms of carbon, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, or C2-C18 alkenyl, for example methyl;

[0163] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0164] - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, especially acetate;

[0165] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;

[0166] and - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

[0167] D) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX)

[0168] in which:

[0169] - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a cycle comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0170] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0171] - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a hy radical monovalent carbon having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;

[0172] - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, especially acetate; and

[0173] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974; in particular, mention may be made of the silicone with the INCI name: QUATERNIUM 80.

[0174] Silicones falling into this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names AB IL QU AT 3270, AB IL QU AT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474.

[0175] E) amino silicones of formula (X): (X)

[0176] in which:

[0177] - Ri, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0178] - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

[0179] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0180] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0181] - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0182] F) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.

[0183] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:

[0184] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R'')-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or else

[0185] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R' ' )-R' -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which:

[0186] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, plus particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0187] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, plus especially between 5 and 30;

[0188] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0189] - R' ' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0190] - R, identical or different, represent a divalent C2-Ci2 hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially R denote a CH 2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and

[0191] - R', identical or different, represent a divalent C2-C hydrocarbon radical i2, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially R' denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0192] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85 mol%.

[0193] The amine level is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0194] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g / mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g / mol. Examples include silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

[0195] G) amino silicones of formulae (XI) and (XII):

[0196] in which:

[0197] - R, R' and R”, identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

[0198] - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and

[0199] - m and n are numbers such that the weight average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000.

[0200] in which:

[0201] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably from 1 to 100;

[0202] - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, denote a group alkyl, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0203] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0204] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. In particular, the following divalent groups may be mentioned: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0205] Preferably, R 1 and R 2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R 1 and R 2, identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0206] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII), we have:

[0207] - x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;

[0208] - ranging from 1 to 100;

[0209] - A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is selected from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0210] - Ri and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R 1 and R 2, identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0211] A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

[0212] H) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at a single chain end or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): ï \ I | ÇFb K ,U "S î ~ t '4- 3 s—( ) 'py" । {.....( ' $ (XIV) One, \UH3 ju 'OH, 'h Ùh (XV)

[0213] In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55000. Examples of amino silicones of formula (XIV) include the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin Etsu.

[0214] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.

[0215] As an example of amino silicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0216] In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000.

[0217] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), mention may be made of aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.

[0218] The composition according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to the formula (XVIII) below: y. OH (XVI II) II I / .............\ ] HO™"' '" - OH ]

[0219] in which:

[0220] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80;

[0221] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better between 1 and 10 and even better between 1 and 5;

[0222] - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, especially 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0223] - R' ' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, especially from 1 to 5 carbon atoms; and

[0224] - R'”, identical or different, preferably identical, are alkyl radicals linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals can optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl OH groups.

[0225] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular a radical -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-.

[0226] Preferably, R' ' is a linear divalent alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.

[0227] Preferably, the R'”, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl radicals; preferentially the R”', which may be identical or different, are chosen from saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C13, C14 and C15, alone or as a mixture, and better still represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15. Preferably, the R'” are identical.

[0228] Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0229] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0230] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0231] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0232] - R' is a divalent alkylene radical having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms,

[0233] - R' ' is a linear divalent alkylene radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0234] Even better, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0235] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0236] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0237] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0238] - R' is a radical -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-, and

[0239] - R' ' is a radical -(CH2)2-.

[0240] A particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may in particular be made of the silicone marketed under the name “DOWSIL 8500 Conditioning agent” by DOW.

[0241] Preferably, the additional silicone(s) may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones, and in particular poly-dialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups; and / or silicones non-volatile liquid amino acids, such as amodimethicones, aminopropyldimethicones and bis-aminopropyldimethicones; and mixtures thereof.

[0242] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the additional silicone(s) in a total content preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, better still ranging from 0.02 to 1% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0243] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the additional silicone(s) chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones, and in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups; and / or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones, aminopropyldimethicones and bis-aminopropyldimethicones; as well as mixtures thereof; in a total content preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, better still ranging from 0.02 to 1% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactants

[0244] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0245] Said cationic surfactants are non-silicone, that is to say they do not contain Si-O groups.

[0246] They are preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, and their mixtures.

[0247] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants chosen from, alone or as a mixture, the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0248] - compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II): in which:

[0249] X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates;

[0250] the groups Ri to R4, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Ri to R4 designating a aliphatic group, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0251] The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from CrC30 alkyl, CrC30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), CrC30 alkylamide, alkyl(C12-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(C12-C22)acetate, and hydroxyalkyl (C1-C30).

[0252] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraalkylammonium salts are preferred, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium salts such as those sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

[0253] It is particularly preferred to use the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds.

[0254] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): " R (III) ,c zCH,CHy.......N(Fy......CO —R, | V YC ' ' "IX \ / H- s in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise respectively from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0255] Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a methyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0256] Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by REWO.

[0257] - quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts, in particular of formula (IV): (IV) R £— --(C H2} — HR, 4 in which

[0258] R9 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

[0259] Rio is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a)(R10a)(Riia)N-(CH2)3, with R9a, RiOa, Rna, Ru, R12, Rb and R14, identical or different, chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

[0260] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P proposed by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT proposed by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0261] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V) following: (V) O ” J R s C ““ (OC,H ^7““““ N “““ (C, R « KX in which:

[0262] R15 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and hydroxyalkyl or di- C1-C6 hydroxyalkyls;

[0263] Rie is chosen from the group R19-C(O)-; the groups R2o which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom,

[0264] Ri8 is chosen from the group R21-C(O)-; the groups R22 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups; the hydrogen atom;

[0265] R17, R[9 and R2b, identical or different, are chosen from hydrocarbon groups in C7-C2i, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

[0266] r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

[0267] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0268] x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

[0269] X is a simple or complex union, organic or inorganic;

[0270] provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then Ri6 denotes R20 and that when z is 0 then Ri8 denotes R22.

[0271] The alkyl groups R[5] may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R[5] denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0272] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0273] When R[6 is a hydrocarbon group R20, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0274] When R[8 is a hydrocarbon group R22, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0275] Advantageously, Rn, Ri9 and R2B, identical or different, are chosen from Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0276] Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.

[0277] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0278] Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0279] The anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0280] It is possible to use more particularly in the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (V) in which R[5 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; Ri6 is selected from the group R19-C(O)-, the methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom; Ri8 is selected from the group R21-C(O)- and the hydrogen atom; Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0281] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0282] Examples that may be mentioned are compounds of formula (V) such as the salts (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacy- loxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be the same or different.

[0283] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on Cio-C3o fatty acids or on mixtures of Cio-C3o fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0284] Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

[0285] The hair composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

[0286] It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

[0287] Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131, can be used.

[0288] Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0289] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one usable ester function, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium salts.

[0290] The term “fatty amines” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or their salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.

[0291] Preferably, the fatty amines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0292] As fatty amines, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be carried by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0293] Amidoamine means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0294] Fatty amidoamine is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0295] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0296] Among the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR”N(R')2(VI) in which: - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical; - R' ' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0297] The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular that marketed by the company INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0298] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0299] The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; better still among those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; even better still among those of formula (II) above.

[0300] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture, salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0301] Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmi-toylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0302] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic surfactant(s) preferably in a total content which ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Nonionic surfactants

[0303] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0304] Said non-ionic surfactants may be chosen from:

[0305] - alcohols, alpha-diols and alkyl(Cl-C20)phenols, these compounds being poly- ethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups being able to range from 1 to 100, the number of glycerol groups being able to range from 2 to 30; or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular alcohols comprising at least one C8 to C40 alkyl chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;

[0306] - condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols;

[0307] - polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 oxide units ethylene, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4;

[0308] - ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters (or oxyethylenated sorbitan ester) preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units,

[0309] - fatty acid esters of sucrose,

[0310] - polyoxyalkylenated, preferably polyoxyethylenated, fatty acid esters having 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide including oxyethylenated vegetable oils,

[0311] - N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives,

[0312] - amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or amine oxides N-(C10-C14 acyl)-aminopropylmorpholine.

[0313] - non-ionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type.

[0314] Nonionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type can be represented by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v

[0315] in which:

[0316] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0317] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0318] - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0319] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,

[0320] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0321] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are of the formula described above in which:

[0322] - RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 with 18 carbon atoms,

[0323] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0324] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,

[0325] - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

[0326] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, of preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0327] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. Particularly preferred are C8 / C16 alkyl-(poly)glucosides 1,4, and in particular decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.

[0328] The oxyethylenated sorbitan esters that can be used in the context of the invention include in particular the oxyethylenated derivatives of mono and polyesters of C8-C30 fatty acids and of sorbitan, having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units. Preferably, the oxyethylenated derivatives of mono and polyesters of C12-C24 fatty acids and of sorbitan, having from 4 to 20 oxide units, are used. of ethylene.

[0329] Such compounds are also known as polysorbates. They are marketed, among others, under the name TWEEN by the company UNIQEMA.

[0330] Mention may in particular be made of 4 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, for example sold under the name TWEEN 21, 20 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, e.g. sold under the name TWEEN 20, 20 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monopalmitate e.g. sold under the name TWEEN 40, 20 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monostearate e.g. sold under the name TWEEN 60, 4 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monostearate e.g. sold under the name TWEEN 61, 20 EO oxyethylene sorbitan tristearate e.g. sold under the name TWEEN 65, 20 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monooleate e.g. sold under the name TWEEN 80, 5 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monooleate, e.g., marketed under the name TWEEN 81, 20 EO oxyethylene sorbitan trioleate, e.g., marketed under the name TWEEN 85.

[0331] In the present disclosure, and in a manner well known per se, the term “compound with X OE” denotes an oxyethylenated compound comprising X oxyethylene units per molecule.

[0332] Preferably, the fatty acid of the oxyethylenated sorbitan ester is a saturated fatty acid, in particular C12-C24.

[0333] Preferred sorbitan esters are oxyethylenated derivatives of C12-C24 fatty acid monoesters of sorbitan, having from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 4 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, 20 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, 20 EO oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0334] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides; and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular those derived from saturated C12-C24 fatty acids and comprising 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units.

[0335] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05 to 8% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even better from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic surfactants

[0336] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more anionic surfactants.

[0337] Anionic surfactant is understood to mean a surfactant containing only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. Anionic surfactants are non-silicone.

[0338] In the present description, an entity is described as being "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.

[0339] The anionic surfactants can be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. A mixture of these surfactants can of course be used.

[0340] It is understood in this description that:

[0341] - the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one car- carboxylic or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO), and may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0342] - the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SOï ), and may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise a carboxylate function; and

[0343] - the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.

[0344] The carboxylic anionic surfactants that can be used therefore comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).

[0345] They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyl-lactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0346] Also useful are C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts.

[0347] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide, such as the compounds proposed by the company KAO under the names AKYPO,

[0348] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids capable of being used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):

[0349] Rr-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COOA (1)

[0350] in which:

[0351] - Rr represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, a radical R2 CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical in C9-C21; preferably Rr is a C8-C20, preferably C8-C18, alkyl radical;

[0352] - n' is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, of preference from 2 to 10,

[0353] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue. nolamine.

[0354] Mixtures of compounds of formula (1) can also be used, in particular mixtures of compounds having different R groups.

[0355] The particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

[0356] - Rr denotes a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl radical, in particular C10-C16, or even C12-C14, or an alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical;

[0357] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0358] - n' varies from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

[0359] More preferably still, compounds of formula (1) are used in which Ri denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or oc-tylphenyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n' varies from 2 to 10.

[0360] Among the commercial products, it is preferable to use the products sold by the company KAO under the names:

[0361] AKYPO® NP 70 (R1=nonylphenyl, n=7, A=H)

[0362] AKYPO® NP 40 (R1= nonylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

[0363] AKYPO®OP 40 (R1=octylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

[0364] AKYPO® OP 80 (R1=octylphenyl, n=8, A=H)

[0365] AKYPO® OP 190 (R1=octylphenyl, n=19, A=H)

[0366] AKYPO® RLM 38 (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=4, A=H)

[0367] AKYPO® RLM 38 NV (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=4, A=Na)

[0368] AKYPO® RLM 45 CA (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=4.5, A=H)

[0369] AKYPO® RLM 45 NV (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=4.5, A=Na)

[0370] AKYPO® RLM 100 (Ri=Ci2-Ci4 alkyl, n=10, A=H)

[0371] AKYPO® RLM 100 NV (Ri=Ci2-Ci4 alkyl, n=10, A=Na)

[0372] AKYPO® RLM 130 (Ri=Ci2-Ci4 alkyl, n=13, A=H)

[0373] AKYPO® RLM 160 NV (Ri=Ci2-Ci4 alkyl, n=16, A=Na),

[0374] or by the company SANDOZ under the names:

[0375] SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (R1=C13 alkyl, n=6, A=H)

[0376] SANDOPAN DTC (R1=C13 alkyl, n=6, A=Na)

[0377] SANDOPAN LS 24 (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=12, A=Na)

[0378] SANDOPAN JA 36 (R1=C13 alkyl, n=18, A=H),

[0379] and more particularly, the products sold under the following names:

[0380] AKYPO® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid), AKYPO®RLM 100 and AKYPO® RLM 38.

[0381] Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0382] - acylglutamates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoyl- glutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

[0383] - acylsarcosinates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmi- toylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

[0384] - acyllactylates, particularly C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behe- noyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

[0385] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0386] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(C12-C20)ethercar- carboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0387] - polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0388] in particular in acid form or in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0389] Preferably, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylic acids and their salts are used.

[0390] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3). They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylethersulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

[0391] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0392] these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0393] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0394] - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, especially C12-C20,

[0395] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20, especially lauryl- sulfosuccinates.

[0396] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;

[0397] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,

[0398] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0399] The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).

[0400] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceridesulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

[0401] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0402] these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0403] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0404] - alkyl sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, and

[0405] - alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, comprising preferably from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0406] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0407] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

[0408] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.

[0409] Preferably, salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0410] Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture,

[0411] - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, especially C12-C20,

[0412] - C6-C24, especially C12-C20, alkyl ether sulfates; comprising preferably from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0413] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;

[0414] - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, especially C12-C20,

[0415] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;

[0416] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,

[0417] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0418] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates; in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0419] - polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene;

[0420] - C6-C24 acylglutamates, especially C12-C20;

[0421] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0422] in particular in acid form or in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0423] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; these surfactants being more particularly in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; as well as their mixtures.

[0424] The composition according to the invention may also be free (0%) of sulfated surfactants (sulfate free); in this case, it advantageously comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from, alone or as a mixture,

[0425] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;

[0426] - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, especially C12-C20,

[0427] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;

[0428] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,

[0429] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0430] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates; in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0431] in particular in acid form or in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0432] Preferably, the composition comprises the anionic surfactant(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular possibly ranging from 1 to 28% by weight, in particular from 5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 7 to 23% by weight, better still from 8 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric surfactants

[0433] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants.

[0434] Amphoteric surfactant is understood to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The amphoteric surfactant(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are non-silicone.

[0435] Mention may be made in particular, alone or in a mixture, of alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C2o)amidalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines.

[0436] They may also be chosen from secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0437] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of the following respective structures (A), (B) and (C):

[0438] (A) Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+,

[0439] in which:

[0440] - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0441] - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0442] - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0443] - M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as than sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and

[0444] - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;

[0445] (B) Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B')

[0446] in which:

[0447] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

[0448] - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;

[0449] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2 - COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0450] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z' ;

[0451] - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as than sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;

[0452] - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra -COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0453] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoampho-dipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylampho-dipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodi-propionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0454] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0455] (C) Ra-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re)

[0456] in which:

[0457] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z” ;

[0458] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hy- radical C1-C4 droxyalkyl;

[0459] - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion from an organic amine;

[0460] - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra—COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil;

[0461] - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0462] Among the amphoteric surfactants, use is preferably made of alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as coca-midopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and compounds of formula (C) such as the salts, in particular sodium salts, of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

[0463] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0464] Preferably, the composition may comprise the amphoteric surfactant(s) in a total amount which may range from 0.01 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 12% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0465] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants. In particular, it may comprise:

[0466] - one or more anionic surfactants chosen from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; and

[0467] - one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. Non-silicone fatty substances

[0468] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances, which may be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

[0469] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds.

[0470] By solid fatty substance is meant a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0471] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0472] The solid fatty bodies may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0473] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty acids that can be used in the present invention are in particular chosen from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearyl acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Said fatty acids are different from the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms previously described.

[0474] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0475] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture:

[0476] - myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);

[0477] - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

[0478] - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol);

[0479] - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

[0480] - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

[0481] - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

[0482] - ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

[0483] - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);

[0484] - myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0485] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol, better still the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0486] The solid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0487] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0488] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols.

[0489] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0490] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0491] Particularly preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0492] A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0493] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0494] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute flower waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, micro-wax crystalline waxes, paraffins, petrolatum, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0495] Mention may also be made of C2 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0496] Mention may also be made of the PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0497] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0498] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0499] As wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0500] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;we can cite in particular camauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.;

[0501] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, vaseline wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter, shea butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0502] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.

[0503] The ceramides or their analogues which may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: .......' f ' R,

[0504] in which:

[0505] - RI denotes an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from acids C14-C30 fatty acid, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0506] - R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a group (galactosyl)m or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0507] - R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in position alpha, this group being able to be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups;

[0508] it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.

[0509] Preferably, ceramides are used for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a ga-lactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0510] The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated or unsaturated C15 group.

[0511] It is also possible to use compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0512] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)cetyl acid amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

[0513] As liquid fatty bodies which may be used, mention may be made of liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0514] The liquid fatty substances have a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C, at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa). Advantageously, the liquid fatty substances are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0515] It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0516] The liquid hydrocarbons may be C6 to C18, and may be linear, branched, or possibly cyclic; they are preferably chosen from C8-C16 alkanes, especially C10-C14. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0517] The liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; mention may be made of paraffin or vaseline oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and their mixtures.

[0518] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0519] The liquid fatty alcohols may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned are octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0520] Liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, different from the triglycerides mentioned above, include in particular esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0521] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0522] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0523] Preferably among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0524] Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use acid esters C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0525] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0526] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0527] Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

[0528] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0529] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0530] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.

[0531] More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0532] An example of this is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0533] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0534] Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substances are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0535] The composition according to the invention may comprise the non-silicone fatty substance(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 18% by weight, preferentially from 2 to 15% by weight, better still from 3 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0536] The composition according to the invention may comprise the non-silicone fatty body(ies) chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters and their mixtures, in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 18% by weight, preferentially from 2 to 15% by weight, better still from 3 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Associative polymers

[0537] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more associative polymers, preferably chosen from non-ionic associative polymers, cationic associative polymers and their mixtures.

[0538] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means any compound resulting from the polymerization by polycondensation or from the radical polymerization of monomers of which at least one is different from an alkylene oxide and from a monofunctional compound of formula RX, R denoting a Cio-C3O alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally hydroxylated, and X denoting a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxylated, ester group. In particular, all compounds resulting solely from the simple condensation of an alkylene oxide with a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, a fatty amide, a fatty amine are excluded.

[0539] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means an amphiphilic polymer capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules. It generally comprises in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic zone, or group, and at least one hydrophobic zone, or group.

[0540] The associative polymers according to the invention are polymers comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and whose molecules are capable, in the formulation medium, of associating with each other or with molecules of other compounds. Preferably, the fatty chain comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon.

[0541] A particular case of associative polymers are amphiphilic polymers, i.e. polymers comprising one or more hydrophilic parts or groups which make them soluble in water and one or more hydrophobic zones or groups (comprising at least one fatty chain) by which the polymers interact and come together with each other or with other molecules.

[0542] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a group or a polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N, S, or a radical with a perfluorinated or silicone chain. When it designates a hydrocarbon group, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon hydrophobic group comes from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may come from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol or from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol such as steareth-100. It can also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as polybutadiene.

[0543] By "fatty chain" in the sense of the present invention, we mean a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0544] By "fatty" compound, such as for example a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a compound comprising in its main chain at least one hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0545] Among the anionic associative polymers, we can notably cite:

[0546] - (A) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one ether unit fatty chain allyl; and more particularly those: the hydrophilic unit of which is constituted by an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly still by a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof; and whose fatty chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of the following formula (!): CH2=C(R')-CH2OBnR in which R' denotes H or CH3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n ranges from 0 to 100, and R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and more particularly still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, R' denotes H, n = 10 and R denotes a stearyl radical (Ci8).

[0547] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether of formula (I'), and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is preferably a copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylene-bis-acrylamide are particularly preferred.

[0548] Particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10), in particular that sold by the company BASF under the name SALCARE SC 80 which is a 30% aqueous emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10), with the INCI name Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer.

[0549] - (B) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of carboxylic acid type unsaturated olefinic, and at least one hydrophobic unit of the alkyl ester (Ci0-C30) type of unsaturated carboxylic acid.

[0550] Preferably, these polymers are chosen from those whose hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of the following formula (II): —C—OH (H) R* 0 in which Ri denotes H, CH3 or C2H5, and whose hydrophobic unit of the unsaturated carboxylic acid alkyl ester (Ci0-C30) type corresponds to the monomer of the following formula (III): HH) k, O in which R2 denotes H, CH3 or C2H5, and R3 denotes a C10-C30, preferably C[2-C22] alkyl radical.

[0551] Alkyl esters (Ci0-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0552] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) acid (meth)acrylic, (ü) an ester of formula (III) described above and in which R2 denotes H or CH3, R3 denotes an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally (iii) a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.

[0553] Among this type of anionic associative polymers, those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above, are more particularly preferred.

[0554] We can notably cite the products sold by the company LUBRIZOL under the trade names PEMULEN TRI, PEMULEN TR2, CARBOPOL 1382, CARBOPOL ETD 2020, CARBOPOL ULTREZ 20, CARBOPOL ULTREZ 21, with the INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and even more preferably PEMULEN TRI and CARBOPOL 1382.

[0555] - (C) maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers such as than the maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer, in particular that sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608 by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES (INCI name: C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer).

[0556] - (D) acrylic terpolymers comprising (a) 20 to 70% by weight of a car- α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, (b) 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated monomer other than (a), and (c) 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic mono-urethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate. We can notably cite the terpolymer methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (40 EO), in particular in 25% aqueous dispersion such as the product VISCOPHOBE DB1000 sold by the company AMERCHOL (DOW CHEMICAL) with the INCI name Poly-acrylate-3.

[0557] - (E) copolymers comprising among their monomers (i) a carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation, such as acrylic or methacrylic acid, and (ii) an ester of carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation, in particular acrylic or methacrylic, and of fatty alcohol in particular oxyalkylenated C8-C32, in particular comprising 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, in particular 4 to 50, or even 10 to 40 EO.

[0558] In particular, monomers that may be mentioned include behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylate, comprising 10 to 40 EO, in particular 18 to 30 EO.

[0559] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation and of C1-C4 alcohol, in particular a C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate.

[0560] Preferably, these copolymers comprise at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one oxyethylenated C8-C32 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer comprising 2 to 100 moles EO, in particular 4 to 50 EO, or even 10 to 40 EO.

[0561] Examples include ACULYN 22 sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or ACULYN 28 sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER sold by Lubrizol.

[0562] - (F) associative polymers comprising at least one unsaturated monomer ethylenic with a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.

[0563] Among the polymers of this type, we can cite more specifically -crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS unit (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salt) and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, as described in application EP-A-750899 -terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mol% of n-(C6-C8)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US5089578 - copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate as well as copolymers of AMPS and non-crosslinked and crosslinked n-dodecylmethacrylamide - copolymers consisting of AMPS units and steareth-25 methacrylate units such as ARISTOFLEX HMS® marketed by CLARIANT, (INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) or beheneth-25 methacrylate, such as ARISTOFLEX HMB® (INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) marketed by CLARIANT, or steareth-8 methacrylate, such as ARISTOFLEX SNC® from CLARIANT (INCI name ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer).

[0564] - (G) associative polymers comprising at least one vinyllactam monomer and at least one at least one α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer such as vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and alkyl methacrylate terpolymers Ci-C20, for example lauryl, such as that marketed by the company ISP under the name ACRYLIDONE® LM (INCI name VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer).

[0565] Among the cationic associative polymers, we can cite: - (A') cationic associative polyurethanes, which can be represented by the following general formula (la): RX-(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L'-(P')p-X'-R' in which: R and R', identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; X and X', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group, or the group L"; L, L' and L", identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate; P and P', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusive, n, m, and p are each independently of the others between inclusively 0 and 1000; the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

[0566] Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the R and R' groups at the chain ends.

[0567] A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the formula (Ia) described above in which: R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X, X' each represent a group L”, n and p are integers that range from 1 to 1000 inclusive and L, L', L”, P, P', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

[0568] Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which: n=p=0 (polymers do not contain units derived from an amine-functional monomer, incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation), the protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions at the end of the chain, followed by the alkylation of the primary amine functions formed by alkylating agents with a hydrophobic group, i.e. compounds of type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a group leaving such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

[0569] Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which: R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' both independently represent a group comprising a quaternary amine, n = p = 0, and L, L', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

[0570] The number-average molecular weight (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between inclusively 400 and 500,000, in particular between inclusively 1000 and 400,000 and ideally between inclusively 1000 and 300,000.

[0571] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound.

[0572] For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It may also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0573] When X and / or X' denote a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and / or X' may represent one of the following formulas: in which: R2 represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, comprising or not a saturated or unsaturated cycle, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P; R1 and R3, identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P; A is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide like chloride or bromide, or a mesylate.

[0574] The groups L, L' and L" represent a group of formula: H ' H OO in which: Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; and R4 represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, comprising or not a saturated or unsaturated cycle, an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P.

[0575] The groups P and P', comprising an amine function, may represent at least one of the following formulas: RS —r5-n-r7— Rg A" 0« — Rs-CH-R7— Re—N—Rÿ has: —R.-CH-R,— 'I r 3C in which: R5 and R7 have the same meanings as R2 defined previously; R6, Rs and R9 have the same meanings as Ri and R3 defined previously; Rio represents an alkylene group, linear or branched, optionally unsaturated and which may contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P, and A is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as halide like chloride or bromide or mesylate.

[0576] As regards the meaning of Y, a hydrophilic group is understood to mean a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.

[0577] For example, when not polymers, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol may be mentioned.

[0578] When it is a hydrophilic polymer, examples that may be mentioned are po- lyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0579] The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and various compounds having labile hydrogen functions. The labile hydrogen functions may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions giving, after reaction with the dii-isocyanate functions, respectively polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas. The term "polyurethanes" of the present invention encompasses these three types of polymers, namely polyurethanes themselves, polyureas and polythioureas as well as copolymers thereof.

[0580] A first type of compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound comprising at least one amine-functional unit. This compound may be multifunctional, but preferably the compound is difunctional, that is to say that according to a preferred embodiment, this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms carried for example by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function. It is also possible to use a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low.

[0581] As indicated above, this compound may comprise more than one amine-functional unit. It is then a polymer carrying a repetition of the amine-functional unit.

[0582] This type of compounds can be represented by one of the following formulas: HZ-(P)n-ZH, or HZ-(P')p-ZH, in which Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

[0583] Examples that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

[0584] The second compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula: O=C=N-R4-N=C=O in which R4 is defined above.

[0585] For example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexanediisocyanate, isophoronediisocyanate, toluenediisocyanate, naphthalenediisocyanate, butanediisocyanate, hexanediisocyanate.

[0586] A third compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (Ia).

[0587] This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a labile hydrogen function, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.

[0588] For example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. When this compound comprises a polymer chain, it may be, for example, alpha-hydroxyl hydrogenated polybutadiene.

[0589] The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) can also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound comprising at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced by the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

[0590] The cationic associative polyurethane may further comprise a hydrophilic sequence. This sequence is provided by a fourth type of compound used in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture where the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.

[0591] The labile hydrogen functions are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions. This compound can be a polymer terminated at the ends of the chains by one of these labile hydrogen functions.

[0592] For example, when not polymers, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol may be mentioned.

[0593] When it is a hydrophilic polymer, examples that may be mentioned are polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0594] The hydrophilic group denoted Y in formula (Ia) is optional. Indeed, the units with a quaternary or protonated amine function may be sufficient to provide the solubility or hydrodispersibility necessary for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.

[0595] Although the presence of a hydrophilic Y group is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes comprising such a group are preferred.

[0596] - (B') quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular: - i) quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

[0597] - ii) quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

[0598] - iii) hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib): in which: R and R', identical or different, represent an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, linear or branched, C1-C30, preferably C1-C20, such as methyl or dodecyl; and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; and n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

[0599] The alkyl radicals carried by the celluloses i) or quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses ii) above preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

[0600] Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains include the product QUATRISOFT LM 200®, marketed by the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL (INCI name Polyquaternium-24) and the products CRODACEL QM® (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Coco-dimonium Chloride), CRODACEL QL® (C12 alkyl) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride) and CRODACEL QS® (C18 alkyl) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride) marketed by the company CRODA.

[0601] Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, more preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride Cl ,(CH3)3N+- and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl ,(CH3)2(Ci2H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known under the trade names SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL with the INCI name Polyquaternium-67.

[0602] More particularly, the polymers of formula (Ib) are those whose viscosity is inclusively between 2000 and 3000 cPs. Preferably, the viscosity is inclusively between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.

[0603] - (C') cationic polyvinyllactams, in particular those comprising: - a) at least one vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer; - b) at least one monomer of the following structures (le) or (Ile): R P 4-. CH-C(R1)-CO-X-(Y)—(CH2-CH2-O)-(CH2-C^—N—R4 £ (la) J R3 CH~C(RJ~CO-X-(Y)—(CH2-CH2-O)-(CH^ —N (Island) R4 in which: X denotes an oxygen atom or an NR6 radical, RI and R6 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (IIIc): (Y2)r—(CH2-CH(R7)-O)-— R3 in which: Y, Y1 and Y2 denote, independently of one another, a linear or branched C2-C16 alkylene radical, R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical, p, q and r denote, independently of each other, either the value zero or the value 1, m and n denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging inclusively from 0 to 100, x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100 inclusive, Z denotes an anionic counterion of organic or mineral acid, such as halide like chloride or bromide or mesylate; provided that: - at least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or R8 denotes a linear or branched C9-C30 alkyl radical, - if m or n is different from zero, then q is equal to 1, - if m or n are equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0.

[0604] The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and may also be block polymers.

[0605] Preferably the counterion Z- of the monomers of formula (Ic) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, the methosulfate ion, the tosylate ion.

[0606] Preferably R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical.

[0607] More preferably, monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic) for which, preferably, m and n are equal to zero.

[0608] The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc): in which s denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical and RIO denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, provided that at least one of the radicals R9 and RIO denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0609] Even more preferably, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

[0610] The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic.

[0611] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may be made of the following terpolymers comprising at least: a)-a monomer of formula (IVc), b)-a monomer of formula (Ic) in which p=1, q=0, R3 and R4 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical and R5 denotes a linear or branched C9-C24 alkyl radical and c) - a monomer of formula (IIe) in which R3 and R4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical.

[0612] Even more preferably, terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40 to 95% of monomer (a), 0.1 to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25 to 50% of monomer (b) will be used. Such polymers are described in particular in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0613] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, the following are used in particular: - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate or lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymers.

[0614] The vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / lauryl dimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymer is notably offered by the company ISP under the names Styleze W10® or Styleze W20L® (INCI name Poly quaternium-55).

[0615] The molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20,000,000, more particularly between 200,000 and 2,000,000 and preferentially between 400,000 and 800,000.

[0616] - (D') cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomers, and one or more associative vinyl monomers, as described in patent application WO2004 / 024779.

[0617] Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the products of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising: - a di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl)methacrylate, - one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, - a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide unit), - a 30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether, - a hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and - an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0618] Such a polymer is, for example, the compound marketed by the company LUBRIZOL under the name CARBOPOL AQUA CC® and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer.

[0619] The non-ionic associative polymers are preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0620] (1) Celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one chain fatty, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better still C14-C28; preferably among: - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better still C14-C28, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, such as commercial cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose marketed in particular under the reference NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (Ci6 alkyls) sold by the company Ashland, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by the company Ashland, - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol ether of alkyl phenol groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) ether of nonyl phenol) sold by the company AMERCHOL, - and their mixtures.

[0621] (2) Hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better C14-C28, such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18 (CM alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C2o alkyl chain) sold by the company RHODIA.

[0622] (3) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic chain monomers fatty, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better C14-C28. Examples include: - the vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer and in particular the ANTARON V216 or GANEX V216 products sold by the company ISP - the vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer and in particular the ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 products sold by the company ISP

[0623] (4) Copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better still C14-C28, such as for example the methyl acrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208.

[0624] (5) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and monomers hydrophobic comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better still C14-C28, such as for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0625] (6) Polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain, both sequences hydrophilic, most often polyoxyethylenated in nature, and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic chains alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.

[0626] (7) Polymers with an aminoplast ether skeleton having at least one chain fatty, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better C14-C28, such as the PURE THIX compounds offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE.

[0627] Preferably, the polyether polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains. or chains at the end of a hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

[0628] Polyether polyurethanes can be multi-block, particularly in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (multi-block copolymer for example). These same polymers can also be in graft or star form.

[0629] Non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Non-ionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

[0630] By extension, non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers also include those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.

[0631] As examples of non-ionic polyether polyurethanes with a fatty chain that can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rhéolate 205® with a urea function sold by the company RHEOX or Rhéolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®. Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T210® with a Cl2-14 alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212® with a Cl8 alkyl chain from AKZO. The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, offered at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

[0632] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278 and RHEOLATE® 244 sold by the company RHEOX. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J offered by the company ROHM & HAAS.

[0633] The polyether polyurethanes which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci. 271, 380.389 (1993).

[0634] More particularly still, it is preferred to use a polyether polyurethane capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0635] Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names ACULYN 46® and ACULYN 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, alcohol stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0636] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-ionic associative polymers, preferably chosen from polyether polyurethanes and / or one or more cationic associative polymers preferably chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular celluloses, including hydroxyethylcelluloses, quaternized modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof; and / or quaternized celluloses corresponding to formula (Ib) above, in particular POLYQUATERNIUM-67; preferentially one or more cationic associative polymers chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives.

[0637] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0638] Preferably, the cationic associative polymer(s) chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyol

[0639] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polyols.

[0640] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) preferably carried by different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0641] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, better still from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, preferentially from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups. Preferably, they comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0642] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are chosen from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof; preferably from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof; and even more preferably from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.

[0643] Preferably, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 45% by weight, better still ranging from 0.1 to 12% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 6% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickeners

[0644] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more thickening agents, in particular aqueous phase thickener (or hydrophilic thickener).

[0645] By "thickening agent", "thickener" or "aqueous phase thickener" is meant a compound which increases by at least 20 cps (20 mPa.s), preferably by at least 50 cps (50 mPa.s), the viscosity of the aqueous phase into which it is introduced at a concentration of 0.05% by weight, the viscosity being measured at 25°C, 1 atm, at a shear rate of 1s 1 (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, Haake R600 Rheometer or the like).

[0646] The thickening agent is different from the surfactants, polymers, silicones, fatty substances and polyols described above. In particular, the thickening agent is different from the associative polymers and cationic polymers described above.

[0647] The thickening agent may advantageously be chosen from non-associative thickening polymers with sugar units, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, and mixtures thereof. Better still, the thickening agent may advantageously be chosen from anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric, non-associative thickening polymers with sugar units; anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, and mixtures thereof.

[0648] By sugar unit, is meant in the sense of the present invention an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound which has several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.

[0649] The sugar units can optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0650] The sugar units which may be included in the composition of the aqueous phase thickening polymers of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0651] As non-associative thickening polymers with sugar units, we can notably cite native gums such as:

[0652] a) exudates from trees or shrubs such as:

[0653] - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0654] - gum ghatti (polymer from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);

[0655] - karaya gum (polymer from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0656] - gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);

[0657] b) gums derived from algae such as:

[0658] - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);

[0659] - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid);

[0660] - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);

[0661] c) gums derived from seeds or tubers such as:

[0662] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0663] - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0664] - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0665] - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);

[0666] - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);

[0667] d) microbial gums such as:

[0668] - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);

[0669] - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0670] - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);

[0671] e) plant extracts such as:

[0672] - cellulose (polymer of glucose);

[0673] - starch (polymer of glucose) and

[0674] - inulin.

[0675] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically.

[0676] As a physical treatment, temperature can be mentioned.

[0677] As chemical treatments, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers which may in particular be non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0678] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to the guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

[0679] The non-ionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention can be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0680] Among the (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups in C1-C6, mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0681] These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can for example be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as for example propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0682] The hydroxyalkylation rate preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0683] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0684] The starch molecules that can be used in the present invention may have cereals or tubers as their botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and pea starches.

[0685] Starches can be modified chemically or physically: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

[0686] Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferably be used, such as the product offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA from NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

[0687] According to the invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, these amphoteric starches comprise one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups can be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups can be of the carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups can be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or amine type. quaternary.

[0688] The starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch such as corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0689] The non-associative thickening polymers of the invention may be cellulosic polymers not comprising a Cio-C3o fatty chain in their structure.

[0690] According to the invention, the term “cellulosic” polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives other than the polymers previously described may be anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0691] Thus, the cellulose polymers which can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in a microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.

[0692] Among these cellulose polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

[0693] Among the cellulose esters, there are inorganic cellulose esters (nitrates, sulfates or phosphates of cellulose, etc.), organic cellulose esters (monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates of cellulose, for example) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as acetatebutyratesulfates and acetatepropionate-sulfates of cellulose. Among the cellulose ether esters, there may be mentioned hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0694] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers without a Cio-C3o fatty chain, i.e. “non-associative”, mention may be made of (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl-(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (e.g. Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (e.g. Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0695] Among the anionic cellulose ethers without fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.

[0696] Among the non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid; homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulfonic acid and their acrylamide copolymers, alone or in mixtures, said polymers being able to be crosslinked or not.

[0697] A first family of suitable non-associative thickening polymers is represented by acrylic acid homopolymers, preferably crosslinked.

[0698] Among the homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked by an allyl ether of alcohol from the sugar series, such as for example the products sold under the names CARBOPOLS 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company NOVEON or the products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by the company 3 VS A. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer.

[0699] The non-associative thickening polymers can also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers such as the polymer sold under the name AQUA SF1 by the company NOVEON.

[0700] The non-associative thickening polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers.

[0701] Among the crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulfonic acid and partially or totally neutralized acrylamide, mention may be made in particular of the product described in example 1 of document EP 503 853 and reference may be made to this document with regard to these polymers.

[0702] Preferably, the thickening agent(s) may be chosen from polymers not comprising sugar units, in particular from thickening polymers with acrylic or methacrylic units, non-associative, crosslinked or not; in particular from homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, preferentially from homopolymers or copolymers of crosslinked acrylic or methacrylic acid, alone or in mixtures; even better from homopolymers of crosslinked acrylic acid, in particular crosslinked by a pentaerythritol allyl ether, a sucrose allyl ether, or a propylene allyl ether.

[0703] Preferably, the thickening agent(s) may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still ranging from 0.02 to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 2% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients

[0704] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, which can be present at a rate of 65 to 98% by weight, better still 70 to 97% by weight, preferably 75 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0705] The composition according to the invention may also further comprise one or more water-miscible organic solvents, different from the polyols previously described, in particular chosen from non-aromatic C1-C6 alcohols such as ethanol and / or isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and / or phenylethyl alcohol; and mixtures thereof. When present, said organic solvent(s) generally represent from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the hair composition.

[0706] The composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more additives, usually used in the field, notably chosen from anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestering agents, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, preservatives, colorants and fillers. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additives in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged. The above additives may generally be present in an amount for each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0707] The cosmetic hair care composition according to the invention can advantageously be considered as a “perfuming composition”, that is to say a composition leaving, after application to the hair, at least temporarily, a perfume or an odor.

[0708] A perfume is the result of a combination of different perfume substances, each providing a specific diffusing odor or "note" and evaporating respectively at different times. More precisely, each perfume has what is called a "top note" which is the odor diffused first when the perfume is applied or when the container containing it is opened, a "heart or body note" which corresponds to the complete perfume (emission for a few hours after the "top note") and a "base note" which is the most persistent odor (emission for several hours after the "heart note"). The persistence of the base note corresponds to the remanence of the perfume.

[0709] The invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of hair comprising a step of applying the composition described above to the hair.

[0710] This cosmetic hair treatment process is more particularly a hair care process, in particular a hair cleaning and / or conditioning process.

[0711] The application of the composition according to the invention can be carried out on damp hair or on dry hair, preferably on damp hair.

[0712] The application step may be followed by a time for the composition to remain on the hair, which may range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.

[0713] The application step according to the invention may be followed, after the possible exposure time, by a step of rinsing the composition, for example with water. Preferably, the application step is followed by a rinsing step.

[0714] The application step may be followed, after a possible application time and / or a possible rinsing step, by a drying step, for example using a hair dryer. The hair may also be left to dry, in particular in the open air.

[0715] The application step according to the invention may also be followed by a step of washing the hair, for example with a shampoo; this is particularly the case when the hair composition according to the invention is used as a pre-shampoo.

[0716] The application step according to the invention may be preceded by a step of washing the hair, for example with a shampoo; this is particularly the case when the hair composition according to the invention is used as a conditioner or hair mask.

[0717] Methods for determining amine index, weight average molecular weight and viscosity A / Amine index

[0718] The amine index (or amine content) can be determined in the following manner, based on the ASTM standard Determination of Amine content (tertiary amine) of Amino alkyl silanes and siloxane fluids.

[0719] The amine index is determined by acid-base titration and is defined as the amount (in milli-equivalents or meq) of perchloric acid required to neutralize 1 g of amine in the sample.

[0720] Procedure:

[0721] - weigh 10 g of sample into a 500 ml Erlenmeyer flask

[0722] - add 50 ml of toluene, mix until the sample dissolves, then add 125 ml of acetic acid

[0723] - while stirring, add 5 drops of crystal violet indicator (at 0.5% weight / volume in acetic acid, i.e. 0.5 g of crystal violet in 100 ml of acetic acid);

[0724] - titrate with 0.1 N perchloric acid HC1O4 (in acetic acid) until that the green color disappears; for information, the color changes occur in the following order: purple -> blue -> green -> yellow

[0725] This gives the quantity of perchloric acid necessary to neutralize the 10 g of sample.

[0726] The calculation of the amine index (AI) is done as follows:

[0727] Amine index (meq / g) = [(ml HC1O4) x (N HC1O4)] / sample weight (g)

[0728] In the present case (with N = 0.1 N and sample weight = 10 g), we obtain the following simplified equation: IA (meq / g) = [(ml HC1O4) x 0.1] / 10 = (ml HC1O4) / 100. B / Weight-average molecular mass (Mw)

[0729] The weight-average molecular mass can be determined by any known method, in particular by dynamic light scattering or by gel permeation chromatography. It is generally expressed in Daltons. C / Dynamic viscosity

[0730] The dynamic viscosity can be determined according to the following method.

[0731] Measuring conditions: 25 ± 2°C, 1 atm., relative humidity 50 ± 5%

[0732] Brookfield Viscometer: This is a precise torque meter that is driven at a discrete rotational speed. The torque measuring system, which consists of a calibrated beryllium-copper spring connecting the drive mechanism to a rotating cone, detects the rotational resistance caused by the presence of a fluid sample between the cone and a stationary flat plate. The rotational resistance of the cone produces a torque that is proportional to the shear stress in the fluid.

[0733] Sample size: 500mL in a beaker.

[0734] Needles (spindles) used, depending on the viscosity range to be measured:

[0735] Spindle No. 1: for viscosities below 950 mPa.s

[0736] Spindle n°2: 950-3800 mPa.s

[0737] Spindle n°3: 3800-4750 mPa.s

[0738] Spindle n°4: 4750-9500 mPa.s

[0739] The viscosity measurement will begin with needle No. 1; if the viscosity is outside the range for this needle, the next one will be tried, and so on, until an absolute viscosity value is obtained. The viscosity value will be taken as the value obtained after the needle has rotated for two minutes.

[0740] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The quantities are indicated therein, unless otherwise indicated, as a percentage by mass of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0741] In the examples which follow, the compound called AMODIMETHICONE according to the invention is an amino silicone which corresponds to the formula: ÇHS | ÇH3 | R- CH, Si—-jO — Si.........i.........io Si..............O âi —R” CH., i CH. i TO CH, ■' L. J ni: I I w nh.

[0742] in which R=R'=R”= methyl and A = -CH2-CH2-CH2-, with m=1.4-13, n = 400-600 and n / m = 45-300.

[0743] Its amine number (AI) is between 0.1 and 0.16 meq / g and its weight average molecular mass (Mw) is between 35,000 and 45,000.

[0744] Example 1 Shampoo composition A and conditioner composition B according to the invention were prepared from the following ingredients (% MA):

[0745] [Tables 1] Ingredients A (shampoo) B (conditioner g) AMODIMETHICONE (Invention) 0.4 0.2 Perfume 1 1 Sodium laureth sulfate 13.5 - Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.5 - Carbomer 0.4 - Glycol distearate 0.1 - Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.2 - Hexylene glycol 0.6 - Mica 0.1 - NaCl 1.3 - Behentrimonium chloride - 1 Cetearyl alcohol - 4.6 Cetyl esters - 0.4 Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate - 1 Isopropanol - 0.2 Preservatives Qs qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0746] Hair compositions are obtained which can be used as shampoo or conditioner.

[0747] Shampooing adds bounce and movement to the hair. Hair feels cleaner until the next shampoo, and it's easier to style and control. Hair also feels shinier.

[0748] The conditioner provides better detangling comfort, improved hair smoothness, shine that lasts until the next shampoo, nutrition, protection and strengthening. It does not weigh down the hair and provides suppleness, a feeling of truly clean hair with greater lightness until the next shampoo.

[0749] Compared to a market reference pair (shampoo + conditioner), we note with the use of the pair according to the invention, an increase in the intensity of the perfume.

[0750] These fragrance intensity properties are particularly observed on weakened hair (type SA20).

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic hair care composition comprising: - one or more amino silicones of formula (I): r r- (|) CH3 | CHa | R' ÇHâ R..........Si.................Si............|..........(O......Si-----------------—O—Si—R CH- GH., | i À CH, '■ L. J ni | | i (CH7k i ; ■ _______i m in which: - R, identical or different, represents a methyl group, a hydroxy radical or an alkoxy group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R' represents a methyl group or a hydroxy radical; - A is a divalent, linear or branched alkylene group comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms; the amino silicone having an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.29 meq / g and a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 10,000 to 100,000; and - one or more perfuming substances, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the amino silicone is of formula (I) in which: - R, identical or different, represent a methyl group and / or a hydroxy radical; better still the two radicals R are identical and represent a methyl group or a hydroxy radical, even better still a methyl radical; and / or - R' represents a methyl group; and / or - A is a linear divalent alkylene group comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms; better still a linear group comprising 3 carbon atoms (-CH2CH2CH2-).

3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amino silicone of formula (I) has an amine index ranging from 0.1 to 0.25 meq / g, better still ranging from 0.1 to 0.19 meq / g, even better still ranging from 0.1 to 0.16 meq / g.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amino silicone of formula (I) has a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 20,000 to 70,000, better still from 25,000 to 50,000, even better still from 35,000 to 45,000.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amino silicone is of formula (I) in which m is between 1.4 and 13, better still between 1.4 and 9, even better still between 1.5 and 5; and the n / m ratio is between 45 and 330, better still between 100 and 300; and advantageously n is between 400 and 600.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amino silicones of formula (I): F nr -n (I) | GH3 | R CHS R---------31—--------------------—1 q — Si........................O Si R GH. 1 GH. | î A CH. L .J ni | 1 HH ; (CH.ki L., .....J m NH. in which: - R, identical, and R' represent a methyl group, - A is a linear or branched divalent alkylene group comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms; preferably a linear divalent alkylene group comprising 3 carbon atoms (-CH2CH2CH2-), the amino silicone has an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.19 meq / g and a weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 25,000 to 50,000; preferably, m is between 1.4 and 13, the n / m ratio is between 45 and 300 and n can be between 400 and 600.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amino silicone of formula (I) has a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25°C, 1 atm, ranging from 2 to 8 Pa.s (2000-8000 cps), better still from 3 to 6 Pa.s (3000-6000 cps), even better still from 3 to 5 Pa.s.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the amino silicone(s) of formula (I) in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.002 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.005 to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, preferably

9.

10. primarily from 0.02 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the perfuming substance(s) are chosen from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the perfuming substance(s) are chosen from essential oils, and in particular those obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families, alone or in a mixture: Abietaceae or Pinaceae, for example conifers; Amaryllidaceae; Anacardiaceae; Anonaceae, for example ylang; Apiaceae, for example umbellifers, in particular dill, angelica, coriander, fennel, carrot or parsley; Araceae; Aristolochiaceae; Asteraceae for example yarrow, mugwort, chamomile, and helichrysum; Betulaceae; Brassicaceae; Burseraceae, for example frankincense; Caryophyllaceae; Canellaceae; Caesalpiniaceae for example copaifera (copahu); Chenopodaceae; Cistaceae e.g. rockrose; Cyperaceae; Dipterocarpaceae; Ericaceae e.g. wintergreen; Euphorbiaceae; Fabaceae; Geraniaceae e.g. geranium; Guttiferae; Hamamelidaceae; Hernandiaceae; Hypericaceae e.g. St. John's wort; Iridaceae; Juglandaceae; Lamiaceae e.g. thyme, oregano, bee balm, savory, basil, marjoram, mint, patchouli, lavender, sage, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, lemon balm, rosemary; Lauraceae e.g. ravensara, bay, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea; Liliaceae e.g. garlic; Magnoliaceae e.g. magnolia; Malvaceae; Meliaceae; Monimiaceae; Moraceae e.g. hemp, or hops; Myricaceae; Myristicaceae e.g. nutmeg; Myrtaceae, e.g. eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajuput, backhousia, clove, myrtle; Oleaceae; Piperaceae, e.g. pepper; Pittosporaceae; Poaceae, e.g. lemongrass, lemongrass, vetiver; Polygonaceae; Ranunculaceae; Rosaceae, e.g. roses; Rubiaceae; Rutaceae, e.g. all citrus fruits; Salicaceae; Santalaceae, e.g. sandalwood; Saxifragaceae; Schisandraceae; Styracaceae, e.g. benzoin; Thymelaceae, e.g. agarwood; Tilliaceae; Valerianaceae, e.g. valerian, spikenard; Verbenaceae, e.g. lantana, verbena; Violaceae; Zingiberaceae, e.g. galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger; Zygophyllaceae; as well as essential oils extracted from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli), stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petitgrain), fruits (coriander, anise, cumin, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, sweet flag, ginger), wood (pine wood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, rose cedar, camphor), herbs and grasses (tarragon, rosemary, basil, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, frankincense, opopanax).

11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, in which the perfuming substance(s) are chosen from: geraniol, geranyl acetate, farnesol, bomeol, bornyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinalool, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, amyl salicylate, dimethylbenzyl carbinol, trichloromethylphenylcarbinyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, isononyl acetate, vetiveryl acetate, vetiverol, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde,2-methyl-3-(p-tert-butylphenyl)propanal, 2-methyl-3-(p-isopropylphenyl)propanal, 3-(p-tert-butylphenyl)propanal, 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-enyl-carboxaldehyde, tricyclodecenyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionate, 4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyl-tetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl-2-pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-4-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, menthone, carvone, tagetone, geranyl acetone, n-decanal, n-dodecanal, 9-decenol-l, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, phenyl acetaldehyde, dimethyl acetal, phenylacetaldehyde diethyl acetal, geranonitrile, citronellonitrile, cedryl acetate, 3-isocamphylcyclohexanol, cedryl methyl ether, isolongifolanone, hawpinonitrile, hawthorn, heliotropin, coumarin, eugenol, vanillin, diphenyl ether, citral, citronellal, hydroxycitronellal, damascone, ionones, methylionones, isomethylionones, solanone, irones, cis-3-hexenol and its esters, musk indans, musk tetralines, musk isochromans, macrocyclic ketones, musk macrolactones, aliphatic musks, ethylene brassylate and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims comprising the perfuming substance(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 3% by weight, preferentially from 0.6 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, in particular chosen from, alone or as a mixture, the following compounds: - compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II): in which: X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates; the groups Ri to IC, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Ri to IC denoting a linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): r D "u (in) FL s '5 0 s q CH£H—"""CO™R51 r" x 3 / "R. ï C—C ; | Hs Hg in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise respectively from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. - quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts, in particular of formula (IV): R,. R "— IM —~ (CH N in which R9 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, Rio is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a)(R10a)(Riia)N-(CH2)3, with R9a, R 10a, Riia, Ru, Rn, Ru and RM, identical or different, chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(CrC4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V): R.^ (V) O * f RTS in which: Ris is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; Ri6 is chosen from the group R19-C(0)-; the groups R20 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated CrC22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, Ri8 is selected from the group R21-C(0)-; the groups R22 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups; the hydrogen atom; Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then Ri6 denotes R20 and that when z is 0 then R denotes R22. - fatty amidoamines, and in particular amidoamines of formula (VI): RCONHR”N(R')2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical. preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) being chosen from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; better still from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; even better still from those of formula (II) above.

14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture, (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides; and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular those derived from saturated C12-C24 fatty acids and comprising 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units.

15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants, in particular chosen from C6-C24, in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, C6-C24, in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; these surfactants being more particularly in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; as well as their mixtures.

16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric surfactants, in particular chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopro-pylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising: - one or more silicones other than the silicones of formula (I), preferably chosen from non-amino, liquid and non-volatile silicones; and / or - one or more non-silicone fatty substances, preferably chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof; and / or - one or more associative polymers, and / or - one or more polyols; and / or - one or more thickening agents.

18. Method for cosmetic treatment of hair comprising a step of applying to the hair the composition according to one of the preceding claims; said application step may be followed by a rinsing step and / or a hair drying step.