Water-in-oil emulsion for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, a specific polyester, a wax and possibly a pigment

Abstract

Title: Water-in-oil emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, a particular polyester, a wax. The present invention relates to a liquid composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials such as skin, eye contour, eyelid contour, eyelashes and eyebrows in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: A) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacting being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid;and B) at least one continuous oily phase comprising at least 1) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and 2) optionally at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0; and C) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; D) at least one wax; and E) optionally at least one powdered colorant.

Description

Title of the invention: Water-in-oil emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, a specific polyester, a wax and optionally a pigment. Technical field

[0001] The present invention aims to provide for the field of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, the eye contour, the eyelid contour, the eyelashes and the eyebrows, a liquid composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, a particular polyester oligomer, a wax and a pigment.

[0002] Many cosmetic makeup compositions based on coloring agents, such as foundations, concealers, lipsticks, lip glosses, and mascaras, have been developed for longer wear and transfer-resistant properties. This is achieved through the use of compositions that form a film after application. Such compositions generally contain volatile solvents that evaporate upon contact with the skin or other keratinous material, leaving behind a layer comprising waxes and / or film-forming polymers, pigments, and fillers. However, these compositions tend to be uncomfortable for the consumer from a sensory point of view.

[0003] Poor durability can be reflected in particular by poor color and / or composition retention. This poor durability can be characterized by the transfer of the product onto a surface such as a fabric in contact with the keratinized material being made up. It can also manifest as a change in color (fading, discoloration), generally resulting from interaction with sebum and / or moisture such as sweat, secreted by the skin in the case of foundation, or from interaction with saliva in the case of lipstick. This forces the user to reapply makeup very frequently, which can be a waste of time.

[0004] It has already been proposed in prior art makeup compositions to use liquid or paste polyesters to obtain holding properties.

[0005] In particular, documents JP2002-128623, JP2002-128628, JP2002-128629 and EP1604634 can be cited, which describe dilinoleic diacid and dilinoleic diol dimer polyesters with the INCI name DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DL LINOLEATE such as those marketed by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade names LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®.

[0006] To obtain hold properties in makeup compositions, polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and diol have also been proposed in document FR29316739, in particular the polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and diol is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol such as the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name VISCOPLAST 14436H® (INCI name: DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER).

[0007] It is also known to use, particularly in documents JP2005-325079 and JP2006-28129, polyesters of hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated fatty acid diacid to provide hold to makeup compositions. Examples of polyesters include, in particular, those with the INCI name HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER, such as the product marketed under the name CRODABOND CSA® by CRODA, and the hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate with the INCI name HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE, such as the product marketed under the names RISOCAST-DA-L® and RISOCAST DA-H® by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO.

[0008] In the cosmetic field, water-in-oil emulsions, also called inverse emulsions, are particularly appreciated by consumers with regard to their cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to their comfort during application.

[0009] The applicant found during its research that liquid makeup compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions comprising the prior art polyesters mentioned above were not fully satisfactory in terms of resistance to humidity and friction, particularly for eyelash and eyebrow makeup.

[0010] There therefore remains a need to find new liquid formulas for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion based on a suitable polyester leading to good adhesion of the deposit (friction, humidity), good non-transfer properties without the disadvantages mentioned above.

[0011] During its research, the applicant unexpectedly discovered that these objectives could be achieved with a liquid composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials such as skin, eye contour, eyelid contour, eyelashes and eyebrows in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: A) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid; and B) at least one continuous oily phase comprising: 1) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and 2) optionally at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0; and C) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase D) at least one wax; and E) at least one powdered colouring material.

[0012] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention

[0013] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a liquid composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials such as skin, the eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: A) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid; and B) at least one continuous oily phase comprising: 1) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and 2) possibly at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0; and C) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; D) at least one wax; and E) at least one powdered colouring material.

[0014] The invention also relates to a method of coating keratinous materials, more particularly of makeup and / or care of keratinous materials, such as skin, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows, characterized in that it comprises at least the application on the keratinous materials of a composition as defined above. Definitions

[0015] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratinous material" means in particular the skin (around the eyes, eyelids), eyelashes and eyebrows.

[0016] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomforts (tingling, pulling), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0017] The term "polyester" refers to any polymer obtained by the condensation reaction of polycarboxylic acids with alcohols or glycols. Its macromolecular skeleton contains a repeating ester functional group. The ester functional group is a characteristic group formed by an atom bonded simultaneously to an oxygen atom by a double bond and to an alkoxy group. When the bonded atom is a carbon atom, it is called a carboxylic ester, whose general form is R-COO-R'.

[0018] By 'polyglycerol-3', triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol, and preferably triglycerol is the major component in said mixture.

[0019] For the purposes of the present invention, "water-in-oil emulsion", also called inverse emulsion, means any composition consisting of a continuous oily phase in which the aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture to the naked eye.

[0020] By "liquid composition" is meant any composition which has one or both of the following characteristics: i) flows by its own weight at room temperature ((20-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 .105 Pa); ii) is not solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and whose consistency, characterized by its hardness, can be measured; iii) does not have any particular shape such as that which can be obtained by hot casting in a mold or container of a given shape.

[0021] Such compositions may therefore be found in particular in creamy, pasty or gel form. Protocol for measuring consistency

[0022] According to a particular form, the composition according to the invention has at 25°C a consistency characterized by a hardness less than or equal to 300 g preferably, a hardness ranging from 1 to 200 g, even more preferably from 5 to 150 g.

[0023] Consistency can be measured according to the following protocol:

[0024] The measuring device is a TA-XT-Plus® sold by STAPLES MICRO SYSTEM, equipped with a 5-kilogram force measuring cell and a 12.7 mm (1 / 2 inch) diameter cylindrical Delrin spindle. The composition is thermostatically controlled at 20 °C. Then, it is placed in excess in a 60 mm diameter container. and to a depth of 22 mm using a metal spatula. The product is spread to avoid any air pockets but without squeezing it so as not to disrupt its structure. The container is then leveled with a spatula to obtain the most even surface possible. The container is then covered with a watch glass to limit the evaporation of solvents present in the formula for about ten minutes. The options chosen for this measurement method are as follows: Test mode: Compression measurement Trigger force: 2.0 g Pre-speed: 0.5mm / sec Test speed: 0.5 mm / sec Temperature: 20 °C + / - 1 °C Penetration distance: 5 mm

[0025] Three successive measurements are taken at points separated by at least 12 mm, at least 10 mm from the edge of the container. The container is held in place during the measurement. The value retained is the average of the maxima obtained at each measurement. Aqueous phase

[0026]

[0052] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally ingredients soluble or miscible in water like water-soluble solvents.

[0027]

[0053] Water suitable for the invention may be demineralized water, water floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

[0028]

[0054] Among the water-soluble solvents that may be present in the aqueous phase, Examples include C2-C6 monoalcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, and butanol. Also included are polyols such as glycerin, propanediol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0029] A composition of the invention may comprise water in a content ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, and even more preferably from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition continuous oily phase

[0030] The composition of the invention comprises a continuous oily phase. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of a structuring agent) at room temperature (20-45°C). It is organic and immiscible in water.

[0031] The oily phase of the composition of the invention comprises 1) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and 2) possibly at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0.

[0032] The total concentration in the oil phase of the composition of the invention varies, preferably, from 5 to 60% by weight, and more particularly from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Volatile hydrocarbon oil

[0033] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0034] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 105 Pa).

[0035] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing predominantly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

[0036] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.

[0037] The volatile hydrocarbon oils usable in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from among the C8-Ci6 branched alkanes. In particular, C8-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permetyl®.

[0038] C8-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate can also be mentioned. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the Shell company, can also be used.

[0039] The volatile hydrocarbon oils usable in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from among the volatile linear alkanes comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0040] As an example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO2007 / 068371 and WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon atom). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.

[0041] By way of example of linear C6-Ci4 alkanes suitable for the invention, n-hexane (C6); n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (Ci0) may be cited ), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (Ci2), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (Ci4), and their mixtures.

[0042] Notable examples include n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12 97® and PARAFOL 14 97® respectively, as well as their mixtures.

[0043] According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used. In particular, the dodecane / tetradecane mixture in the weight ratio 85 / 15 marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT 1214® can be used.

[0044] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in C9-Ci2 with INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE is used, such as the product marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT SILK®.

[0045] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Ci3) is used, such as those obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis and such as that sold under the trade name CETIOL ULTIMATE® by BASF.

[0046] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in C9-Ci2 with INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE.

[0047] The oil or volatile oils are preferably present in the composition of the invention at levels ranging from 5 to 60% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Non-volatile oils

[0048] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0.

[0049] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester is between 0 and 8, and more particularly from 1 to 3.

[0050] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0051] Non-volatile oils according to the invention can be chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and their mixtures.

[0052] Examples of non-volatile oils that can be used in the invention include: - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as fatty acid triglycerides containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms such as Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, such as those marketed by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel; triglycerides of branched fatty acids in Ci8-C36 and glycerol, such as that marketed under the name DUB TGI 24® by Stéarineries Dubois (INCI name Cl8-36 Acid Triglyceride); - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, or squalane; - synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether; - synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, triheptanoin, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, heptyl undecylenate, dii-sostearyl malate and tridecyl trimellitate; - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, comprising a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain with 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol; - higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate; - acetates; - citrates; - their mixtures.

[0053] According to a particular form, the non-volatile oil is a triglyceride of fatty acids containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0054] Polyglycerol-3 polyester / dimer acid / Cg-Qn monofatty acid

[0055] The composition according to the invention includes at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacting being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol- 3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimeric acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids.

[0056] The polyesters of the invention and their synthesis are described in US patent applications 2021 / 0259945, US 2021 / 0259946 and US 2021 / 0259930.

[0057] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of active polyester material varies from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product.

[0059] By "substantially non-sequential reaction product", we mean the product obtained by a substantially non-sequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iü).

[0060] By "totally non-sequential reaction of the reactant components (i)-(iii)", it is meant that the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0061] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before the reaction begins, i.e., the reaction is completely non-sequential, and the polymer is a completely non-sequential reaction product of components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70-100%, or 75-100%, or 80-100%, or 85-100%, or 90-100%, or 95-100%, or 97-100% of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) are added to the reaction vessel before the reaction begins.

[0062] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0063] Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3-OH in which Gly designates a remainder of glycerol after the removal of two hydroxyl groups.

[0064] A polyglycerol-3 according to the invention in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol comprises polyglycerols that may be any oligocondensation product of glycerol. They preferably conform to the formula (I): [Chem 1] Kl—(1)

[0065] in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

[0066] Generally, most Gly groups are of the formula: -CH2-CHOH-CH2-, although residues including etherification at secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are considered to be within the "Gly" category and, therefore, may also be present.

[0067] Examples of polyglycerol-3 include diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol, and mixtures thereof. In particular, preferred polyglycerols are those of formula (I) in which n is in particular from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5, and especially 2, 3, or 4, or mixtures of oligoglycerols in these ranges.

[0068] Particularly suitable examples of polyglycerol-3 include a mixture of polyglycerols having the following distribution in which all weight percentages are based with respect to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form. - glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight, preferably 0 to 20% by weight, preferably 0 to 15% by weight; - diglycerol: 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 32% by weight; - triglycerol: 10 to 65% by weight, preferably 15 to 60% by weight, preferably 18 to 55% by weight; - tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, preferably 8 to 20% by weight; - pentaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - hexaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - heptaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - octaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - nonaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, preferably 0 to 2% by weight; - decaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, preferably 0 to 2% by weight.

[0069] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprises the following polyglycerol distribution: Glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight; Diglycerol: 15 to 40% by weight; Triglycerol: 10 to 55% by weight; Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight; Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 as a mixture.

[0070] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form is composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0071] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form is composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol; wherein all the weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0072] A particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0073] Analysis of such a polyglycerol-3 composition can be performed to determine its median or "mean" polyglycerol number. The examples of polyglycerols above with narrow and broad distributions can also be designated as polyglycerol-3, since this is the integer closest to the mean and / or median. Dimer acid

[0074] The dimeric acid can be any dicarboxylic acid having at least 4 carbon atoms. They can be linear or branched, such as for example the dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid, and their anhydrides.

[0075] Dimeric fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, they are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids obtained by a catalyzed dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0076] For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, reference should be made to the publication "The Dimer Acids: The Chemical and physical properties, reactions and applications", Ed. EC Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0077] Dicarboxylic acids may also contain, to a lesser extent, tri- and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture should not exceed an average molar value of 2.4.

[0078] Preferred dimeric acids are typically derived from triglycerides rich in C[8] ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce unsaturated mono-fatty acids in the C[8] range. Raw materials can be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources such as flaxseed, soybeans, pumpkin seeds, and walnuts can be used. The target mono-acids used in the reaction are rich in the forms of oleic and linoleic acids described in the fatty acid list below. Dimerization leads primarily to the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After the reaction, the product can be stored as a mixture of reaction products, or it can be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions.In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) of dimeric acid (C36 diacid) but also produces C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).

[0079] In one case, a standard dimeric acid commercially available from Croda, Pripol 1025®, is used, which contains 72% by weight of dimer and 19% by weight of trimer acid.

[0080] In another case, a standard hydrogenated dimeric acid from Oleon, Radiacid 0960®, is used, which contains 87 wt% dimer and 10 wt% trimeric acid. In both cases, the polymer as described is characterized by a higher molecular weight, greater hydrophobicity, and higher viscosity than those that can be provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of trimeric acid further improves the molecular weight and performance of these polymers.

[0081] In one embodiment, the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid.

[0082] In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated dimeric acid comprising hydrogenated Ci8dimerized fatty acids, which hydrogenated dimeric acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated C[8] fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.

[0083] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a trimer acid content ranging from about 5 to 25% by weight, based on a total weight of hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0084] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight, but at most 95% by weight, or better yet at most 90% by weight, or even better at most 85% by weight) of hydrogenated dimer acid (C36 diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25%). % by weight, but more than 5% by weight, preferably more than 10% by weight). C8-C30 monofatty acid

[0085] C8-C30 mono-fatty acids can include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oils, etc., but these contain both lower and higher molecular weight chains. Useful mono-fatty acids can be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated, and aromatic, with acidity provided by carboxylic acid fractions.

[0086] Acids suitable for the invention include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (Ci0), undecylic acid (Cn), lauric acid (Ci2), tridecylic acid (C[3], myristic acid (Ci4), pentadecylic acid (Ci5), palmitic acid (Ci6), margaric acid (Ci7), stearic acid (C[8], isostearic acid (Ci8), nonadecyl acid (Ci9), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0087] A comparison of stearic and isostearic acids shows that branching leads to a high melting point and results in low viscosity at room temperature for isostearic acid, compared to a solid material for stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful in handling raw materials and also to allow esters made with this acid to retain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids often contain a single methyl branch along the linear carbon chain and are produced in nature by microbial action. Isotearic acid is available as a reaction byproduct in the creation of the dimeric acid described above.

[0088] Another way to obtain a liquid product is to use linear and branched unsaturated monoacids. These unsaturated acids may include palmitoleic acid (C16:l), vaccenic acid (C18:l), oleic acid (C18:l), elaidic acid (C18:l), linoleic acid (C18:2), linolelaidic acid (C18:2), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), γ-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paullinic acid (C20:l), gondolic acid (C20:l), dihomo-linolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:l), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), cervonic acid (C22:6), and nervonic acid (C24:1). As is well known to those skilled in the art, the designation means that the carbon chain is X carbon atoms long; and there are Y double bonds in the chain.

[0089] In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.

[0090] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at less 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and iii) isostearic acid.

[0091] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0092] In one embodiment, it is preferable to have a total degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments (total esterification) of 24% to 74% and a degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments by a dimer acid alone (esterification with a dimer acid) of 20% to 40%. Most importantly, the degree of esterification by the end-cap units (esterification with a monoacid) is also defined in this description, and it is important to maintain the esterification with a monoacid of 4% to 40%.

[0093] 11 It is preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a dimeric acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0094] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 33% to 48% with an esterification with a dimeric acid of 20% to 28% and an esterification with a monoacid between 13% and 20%.

[0095] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 24% to 74% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of 20% to 40% and an esterification with a monoacid between 4% and 40%.

[0096] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0097] It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 20% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 20%.

[0098] It is also even more preferable to have also most preferred a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0099] In one embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of fatty acid.

[0100] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0101] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0102] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0103] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0104] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0105] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0106] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0107] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0108] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 0.67 mole of isostearic acid.

[0109] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0110] By adjusting the molar ratio of fatty acid termination and balancing the amount of polyglycerol-3 and dimer acid, it is also possible to control the degree of dimer-polyglycerol extension and termination so that crosslinking, for example, via the acid trimer, leads to much higher viscosities.

[0111] The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be > 50,000 mPa.s and less than 5,000,000 mPa.s at 25 °C.

[0112] In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 75,000 mPa.s and <2,500,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0113] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0114] In a preferred embodiment of all, the target viscosity is > 1,000,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0115] Viscosity is measured using an MCR3O2® rheometer from Anton Paar Inc. Twin flat plates, either rough or smooth, 50 mm in diameter, were used, coated with a polymer sample, fitted with a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans were performed. The polyesters of the invention exhibit Newtonian behavior and therefore have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. Furthermore, the polymers described have demonstrated a viscosity that decreases with temperature. Thus, the viscosity measurements are reported at a precisely controlled temperature and generally in the form of a shear rate of 1. The values ​​are reported in mPa·s.

[0116] The polyesters of the invention are characterized by average molecular masses by weight > 2500 Da and < 1,000,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0117] The GPC column used for these tests consisted of: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous phase of Tetrahydrofuran (THF) was used and injected at 0.35 ml / min, column oven maintained at 40°C; a 50 pL injection and a Wyatt Ri refractive index detector. The calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrene intended for monodisperse application. The narrow-range polystyrene GPC calibration standards were prepared in mobile phase and had maximum molecular weights of 1,290,000 Da; 560,000 Da; 65,500 Da; 28,500 Da; 10,100 Da; 1,680 Da; 580 Da and 208 Da. Using standard methodologies, the average molecular mass by weight and number is automatically calculated by standard GPC software.

[0118] In a preferred embodiment, the described polyesters have a weight-average molecular weight > 4,000 Da and < 250,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In a preferred embodiment of all, the described polymers have a weight-average molecular weight > 5,000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0119] In yet another embodiment, the polyester of the invention has a combination of average molecular mass by weight > 5000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards and viscosity at 25°C > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s.

[0120] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid; wherein the polymer exhibits a weight-average molecular weight combination > 5,000 Da and < 15,000 Da measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards and a viscosity of the pure polymer > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C; and wherein the copolymer is also characterized by a total esterification of about 40%, an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0121] In practice, since the crude ingredients contain a range of polyglycerol units and a range of dimer and trimer acid contents, the above numbers can be adjusted using the actual (not theoretical) hydroxyl and carboxylic acid fractions as determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR, and liquid chromatography. The esterification ranges above are based on the ideal structure of polyglycerol-3 and the C36 dimer acid. The actual ranges may therefore differ slightly from the values ​​given above and can be calculated on the basis of these analytical values.

[0122] It is more practical to define the extent of polymerization by the final acid value. The initial acid values, in light of the distribution of the polyglycerol, monoacid, and polyacid fractions present, can be reliably calculated using the actual acid value determined by the crude ingredient used.

[0123] For example, the initial total acid number ("AV," which is commonly defined as mg KOH / g of total reagent) is 135 AV. This includes 68 AV for the dimer acid and 67 AV for the isostearic acid for a preferred embodiment containing 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid, and 1 mole of isostearic acid. All preferred ratio embodiments described above have a corresponding initial AV that can be calculated. When, during the polymerization reaction, the AV units are reduced, this ratio gives the percentage conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactive acid fractions to the final residual acid fractions.

[0124] Thus, the completion rate of the reaction is defined by

[0125] (1 - Final AV) / Initial AV.

[0126] In one embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 25 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0127] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 10 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0128] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 5 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0129] Since the completion rate of the reaction is defined by the equation 1- final AV / initial AV, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures in the final polymer is > 80%.

[0130] In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures into the final polymer is > 90%.

[0131] In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures into the final polymer is > 95%.

[0132] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a reaction product of a polyglycerol-3, a C36 hydrogenated dimeric acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of US document 2021 / 0259945.

[0133] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one oily solution comprising: a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) at least one non-volatile oil as defined above.

[0134] According to a particular form, the non-volatile oil is a triglyceride of fatty acids containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0135] The polyester oil solution of the invention can be obtained by mixing the polyester with the oil or non-volatile oils at approximately 80-100°C. The mixture is then further cooled to 50-70°C before being removed from the reactor and stored.

[0136] The polyester oil solution of the invention preferably contains polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil solution.

[0137] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention contains a oily solution comprising 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid relative to the total weight of the oily solution in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oil mixture) of US document 2021 / 0259945.

[0138] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an oily solution comprising a) a polyester obtained by reaction ' (i) polyglycerol-3, and (ii) of a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) of isostearic acid; the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having the INCI name: DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (AND) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE.

[0139] Such an oily solution is marketed under the name SOLAMAZE NATURAL® by the company NOURYON comprising 60% by weight of polyester active matter and 40% by weight of a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride relative to the total weight of the oily solution. Waxes

[0140] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax.

[0141] For the purposes of the invention, "waxes" are understood to be lipophilic compounds, solid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), with reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40 °C and up to 120 °C.

[0142] Waxes described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry 2015, Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, are more specifically concerned.

[0143] Such waxes can be natural but also synthetic.

[0144] By “natural” wax is meant any wax that pre-exists in nature or that can be transformed, extracted or purified from natural compounds existing in nature.

[0145] Among natural waxes, we can notably mention fossil waxes, including those of petroleum origin such as ozocerite, pyropissite, microcrystalline waxes also called paraffins – including raw waxes or gatsch, gatsch raffinates, defatted gatsch, soft waxes, semi-refined waxes, filtered waxes, refined waxes – and microcrystalline waxes called microwaxes, including the gatsch from "bright stock". Fossil waxes also include lignite, also called montan wax, or the wax of peat.

[0146] Natural waxes other than fossil waxes include vegetable waxes.

[0147] Examples of vegetable waxes include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax, sugar cane wax, jojoba waxes, Trithrinax campestris wax, raffia wax, alfalfa wax, Douglas fir wax, sunflower waxes, sisal wax, linseed wax, cotton wax, Batavia dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, rice wax, palm wax, Japanese wax, mixtures and derivatives thereof.

[0148] As a particular wax, one can cite the mixture of jojoba wax and sunflower seed wax with the INCI name: JOJOBA ESTERS (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3 (and) TOCOPHEROL such as the commercial product DEFINICIRE® sold by the company GATEFOSSE.

[0149] As a natural wax other than vegetable waxes, beeswax may be mentioned.

[0150] By “synthetic” wax, we mean waxes whose synthesis requires one or more chemical reactions conducted by humans.

[0151] Among synthetic waxes, a distinction can be made between semi-synthetic and fully synthetic waxes. Synthetic waxes can be waxes obtained by a Fischer-Tropsch process, consisting, for example, of paraffins with a number of carbon atoms ranging from 20 to 50, or polyolefin waxes, for example, homo- or copolymers of ethylene, propene, or butene, or even of longer-chain α-olefins. The latter can be obtained by thermomechanical degradation of polyethylene plastic, by the Ziegler process, by high-pressure processes, or even via processes catalyzed by metallocene species. These waxes can be crystallizable, partially crystallizable, or amorphous.The aforementioned synthetic waxes are generally non-polar and can be chemically treated to obtain polar waxes, for example by one or more of the following reactions: oxidation in air, grafting, esterification, neutralization by metallic soaps, amidation, direct copolymerizations or addition reactions.

[0152] According to a preferred form, the composition of the invention comprises at least one natural vegetable wax selected from rice waxes, carnauba waxes, jojoba waxes, sunflower waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0153] According to a particularly preferred form, the quantity of wax(s) present in the composition of the invention varies, preferably at levels ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Powdered coloring materials

[0154] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one powdered coloring material.

[0155] Powdered colouring materials may be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, mother-of-pearls and mixtures thereof.

[0156] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0157] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0158] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta₂O₅, Ti₃O₅, Ti₂O₃, TiO, and ZrO₂ mixed with TiO₂, ZrO₂, Nb₂O₅, CeO₂, and ZnS.

[0159] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 100 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0160] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 1 Opm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0161] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, specifically the Malvern Master Sizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron and allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0162] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.

[0163] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter preferably being present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0164] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound selected from metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; trisostearyl isopropyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0165] According to a preferred mode, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with an N-acylated amino acid or one of its salts which can include an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0166] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative, which may be, in particular, a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more specifically a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red, and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0167] According to a preferred method, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with isopropyl titanium triisostearyl titanate. Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWB0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI 77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI 77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and BWRO-12® (Iron Oxide CI 77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by KOBO.

[0168] The pigments that can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.

[0169] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0170] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 1725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR2 679 771.

[0171] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0172] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0173] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0174] Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. We can also mention the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0175] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).

[0176] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one powdered colouring material of the mineral pigment type, in particular selected from metallic oxides, and more particularly uncoated black iron oxides (CI 77499).

[0177] The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0178] Preferably, the powdered coloring material(s) is / are present in the composition at a concentration of 1 to 30% by weight, Preferably 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Emulsifiers

[0179] Water-in-oil emulsions according to the invention generally comprise one or more emulsifying surfactants, preferably non-ionic with an HLB of less than or equal to 8.

[0180] For the purposes of the present invention, "emulsifying surfactant" means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, that is to say, having two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase), and the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts of the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of oil-in-water emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Da Vies method.

[0181] Preferably, non-ionic non-siliconized emulsifying surfactants may be cited, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugars.

[0182] Examples of alkylated polyol esters include polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product marketed under the name CITHROL DPHS-SO-(MV)® by CRODA.

[0183] Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters include polyglycerol isostearate (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE) such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GI 34® by Evonik Goldschmidt; POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE marketed under the name LAMEFORM TGI® by BASF; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 987® by ICI; Sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986® by ICI, the diester of a mixture of polyhydroxystearic and sebacic acids with Polyglycerin-4 (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIL SOSTEARATE / (POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE / SEBACATE) such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GPS® by Evonik, and mixtures thereof. C2-C6 monoalcohol

[0184] According to a particularly preferred form, the composition further comprises at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 0 carbon atoms.

[0185] The monoalcohol(s) according to the invention preferably comprise 2 to 4 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

[0186] The monoalcohol(s) can be represented for example by the formula RaOH, in which Ra represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0187] Examples of mono-alcohols include ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol, and more particularly ethanol

[0188] According to an advantageous embodiment, the quantity of mono-alcohol(s) varies from 1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. cosmetic compositions

[0189] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.

[0190] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0191] The compositions according to the invention may, in addition to additives commonly used in skincare and / or makeup products, include: - active ingredients such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; - additional fat-soluble or water-soluble coloring agents - UV filters; - charges; - hydrophilic gelling agents; - film-forming agents; - lipophilic gelling agents; - perfumes - conservatives - and their mixtures.

[0192] It is a matter of routine practice for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of additives present in compositions according to the invention, so that their desired cosmetic properties are not affected. Water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring agents

[0193] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble or fat-soluble colouring material and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0194] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly in view of the intensity of the desired color effect and the colonic intensity provided by the color materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the skills of the expert.

[0195] Additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be fat-soluble.

[0196] By "liposoluble colouring material", in the sense of the invention, is meant any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fat and capable of colouring.

[0197] Fat-soluble colorants suitable for the invention may include, in particular, synthetic or natural fat-soluble colorants such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

[0198]

[00133] Additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble.

[0199]

[00134] For the purposes of this invention, “water-soluble coloring matter” means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

[0200] As examples of suitable water-soluble colorants for the invention, the following may be cited in particular: synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. Charges

[0201]

[00136] Compositions according to the invention may also include at less a filler allowing, in particular, to give them additional properties of matte finish, coverage, hold and / or improved stability.

[0202]

[00137] By "charge", one should understand colorless or white particles, Solids of all shapes, which are insoluble and dispersed in the composition. They allow the composition to be given body or rigidity and / or softness and uniformity to the makeup.

[0203] The fillers can be inorganic or organic.

[0204] Preferably, they can be chosen from natural or naturally sourced fillers.

[0205] By “natural compound” is meant a compound which is obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0206] The term “compound of natural origin” means a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of that compound, and / or a compound consisting mainly of natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations. As a non-limiting example of ancillary chemical or industrial treatments that result in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, one may mention those authorized by control bodies such as Ecocert (Reference Guide for Organic and Ecological Cosmetic Products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as “Cosmetics and Tissue Magazine”, 2005, vol. 120, 9: 10.

[0207] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0208] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with amino acids or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. a) Mineral fillers

[0209] Examples of mineral fillers include talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica, hydrophobic silica aerogels, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and silica-titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass. b) Organic fillers

[0210] Examples of organic fillers include natural micronized waxes; metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine, cellulose powders such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range.

[0211] Preferably, kaolin will be used as a filler.

[0212] Preferably, the filler(s) are present in the composition in a certain content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly Binding of 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Gelling agents

[0213] Depending on the viscosity of the composition to be obtained, one or more hydrophilic gelling agents, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water and / or one or more lipophilic gelling agents, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water, can be incorporated into a composition of the invention.

[0214] Preferably, hydrophilic gelling agents and / or lipophilic gelling agents will be chosen over natural or naturally derived gelling agents. Hydrophilic gelling agents

[0215] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include polysaccharides such as polysaccharide biopolymers like pullulan, xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, celluloses such as cellulose gums, microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and mixtures thereof, and more particularly pullulan.

[0216] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention further contains a hydrophilic gelling agent selected from polysaccharides, in particular pullulan. Lipophilic gelling agents

[0217] Lipophilic gelling agents also include dextrin and fatty acid esters

[0218] According to a particularly preferred form, the composition of the invention contains a lipophilic gelling agent selected from dextrin and fatty acid esters.

[0219] dextrin and fatty acid esters are preferably in particular C12 to C24, in particular C1 to C18, or mixtures thereof.

[0220] More preferably, the dextrin ester is a dextrin and fatty acid ester in C12-C18, in particular in Ci4-Ci8.

[0221] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate.

[0222] In a particularly preferred manner, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This can, for example, be selected from those marketed under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the Chiba Flour Milling company.

[0223] Preferably, the dextrin ester may be present in the composition at concentrations ranging, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic applications

[0224] The composition used according to the invention may be a care and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials such as skin (eye contour, eyelids), eyelashes or eyebrows.

[0225] More specifically, the composition according to the invention is a makeup product for eyelashes such as mascara, a makeup product for eyebrows.

[0226] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0227] Packaging and application assembly or kit

[0228] The present invention also relates to an assembly, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous materials, comprising: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratinous materials, as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.

[0229] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a makeup set comprising: i) an applicator capable of drawing a line around the eye ii) a composition according to the invention arranged inside a container.

[0230] The container may delimit one or more compartment(s). The container may, for example, be in the form of a tube.

[0231] Such an applicator may be attached to a cap mounted reversibly on said container between a closing position of said container and a makeup position.

[0232] Alternatively, such an applicator can be irreversibly mounted on said container. Examples of such applicators include felt-tip pens and brushes, which may be made of synthetic fibers.

[0233] It is understood that within the framework of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0234] Throughout the application, the expression "includes a" or "comprises a" should be understood as meaning "containing at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0235] It is understood that the following examples are given for illustrative purposes only and are in no way limiting the scope of protection conferred by this application.

[0236] Example 1 (invention) and comparative examples a. 1b and the : mascaras

[0237] Example 1 of the invention was prepared containing 5% by weight of solution oily polyester of the invention DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (60%) (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%).

[0238] We have prepared comparative examples aa, 1b and the outside invention.

[0239] Comparative example 1a is of identical composition but contains, instead of the polyester oily solution of the invention, polyester DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER (VISCOPLAST 14436H® - BIOSYNTHIS) in the same quantity of raw material (5% by weight).

[0240] Comparative example 1b is of identical composition but contains, instead of the polyester oil solution of the invention, the polyester HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER (CRODABOND CSA® - CRODA) in the same quantity of raw material (5% by weight).

[0241] Comparative example le is of identical composition but contains instead of the polyester oily solution of the invention, polyester DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE (LUSPLAN DD-DA7® - NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL) in the same quantity of raw material (5% by weight).

[0242] [Tables 1] Ingrédients (nom INCI) Exl Compara tif la Compara tif 1b Comparati fie C9-12 ALKANE (VEGELIGHT SILK® -BIOSYNTHIS) qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 CIRES NATURELLES (cire de son de riz, cire de camauba) 30 30 30 30 KAOLIN (IMERCARE 04K® - IMERYS) 2 2 2 2 IRON OXIDES (UNIPURE TRIPLE BLACK LC 990® -SENSIENT) 4,2 4,2 4,2 4,2 DIISOSTEAROYL POLY-GLYCERYL-3 DIMER DL LINOLEATE (60%) (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%) (SOLAMAZE NATURAL®-NOURYON) 5 DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER (VISCOPLAST 14436H® -BIOSYNTHIS) 5 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER (CRODABOND CSA® - CRODA)) 5 DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DL LINOLEATE (LUSPLAN DD-DA7® - NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL) 5 DEXTRIN PALMITATE (RHEOPEARL TL2® - CHIBA FLOUR MILLING) 2 2 2 2 WATER 20 20 20 20 PULLULAN 4 4 4 4 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIL SOSTEARATE (LAMEFORM TGI® - BASF) 2 2 2 2 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 SODIUM DEHYDROACETATE 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 ETHANOL 3 3 3 3 Ratio % non-volatile oil / % Polyester 0.67 0 0 0 Preparation protocol

[0243] The raw materials were pre-weighed using a balance (accuracy = 0.01 g). The ingredients, except for the ethanol, were introduced into a temperature-controlled manufacturing tank. The set temperature was 90°C. The mixture was emulsified at 90°C after complete melting for 15 minutes under vigorous rotor-stator stirring. It was then cooled to 30°C under rotor-stator stirring. The ethanol was added at 30°C under rotor-stator stirring. Comparative test of mascara hold on eyelashes

[0244] To evaluate the mascara's staying power, each sample was applied to a test tube of false eyelashes and left to dry for 4 hours. The test tube was then sprayed with water and placed on a support. Five back-and-forth movements were made with a finger to simulate rubbing. The intensity of the black smear and the amount of black deposit lost were evaluated.

[0245] The following notations A, B, C and D were given for the evaluation of flake formation due to crumbling: A: no crumbling was observed; B: slight crumbling was observed; C: crumbling has been observed; D: significant crumbling is observed.

[0246] The following notations A, B, C and D were given for the evaluation of the tendency to make traces. A: no trace was observed; B: a light trace was observed; C: a trace was observed.

[0247] The results obtained are shown in the table below.

[0248] [Tables2] Observations Exl invention Ex the comparative Ex 1b comparative Ex the comparative Stain resistance ABCB Stain resistance ABBC

[0249] According to the observations and notations, example 1 of the invention according to the invention showed superior water resistance and friction qualities compared to comparative examples 1a, 1b and 1e.

Claims

Demands

1. Liquid composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials such as skin, eye contour, eyelid contour, eyelashes and eyebrows in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: A) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid; and B) at least one continuous oily phase comprising: 1) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and 2) optionally at least one non-volatile oil;the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0; and C) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase D) at least one wax; and E) optionally at least one powdered coloring matter.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

4. Composition any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyglycerol-3 is triglycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; said polyglycerols conforming to formula (I)(T- in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprising at least 25 wt% diglycerol, at least 45 wt% triglycerol and at least 10 wt% tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60 wt% hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25 wt% hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of the hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid.

9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water in a content ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total concentration in the oil phase varies from 5 to 50% by weight, and more particularly from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil or oils are in contents ranging from 5 to 50% by weight, preferably 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil is a mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes of INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE.

13. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0, preferably between 0 and 8, and more particularly between 1 and 3

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile oil is selected from hydrocarbon non-volatile oils and more preferably from fatty acid triglycerides containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly is a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyester is a reaction product of polyglycerol-3, C36 hydrogenated dimeric acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

16. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one oily solution comprising: a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile oil(s) to the amount of copolymer being less than 8.

0.

17. Composition according to claim 16, wherein the polyester oil solution contains said polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil solution.

18. Composition according to claim 16 or 17, wherein the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid relative to the total weight of the oily solution, in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

19. A composition according to any one of claims 16 to 18, comprising an oily solution comprising (a) a polyester obtained by reaction of (i) a polyglycerol-3, and (ii) a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) isostearic acid; the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and (b) a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having the INCI name: DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (AND) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 0 carbon atoms, in particular ethanol.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one colouring material, preferably selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, mother-of-pearl and mixtures thereof; and more particularly selected from uncoated black iron oxides.

22. Composition according to claim 21, wherein the powdered colouring material(s) is / are present in a content of 1 to 30% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additive selected from: - active ingredients such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; - UV filters; - fillers; - waxes; - film-forming agents; - hydrophilic gelling agents; - lipophilic gelling agents; - perfumes; - preservatives; - and mixtures thereof.

24. Composition according to claim 23, further containing at least one wax, preferably selected from natural vegetable waxes, in particular from selected from rice waxes, carnauba waxes, jojoba waxes, sunflower waxes and mixtures thereof.

25. Composition according to claim 23, further containing at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably selected from polysaccharides, in particular pullulan.

26. Composition according to claim 23, further containing at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably selected from dextrin and fatty acid esters, in particular dextrin palmitate.

27. ​​A packaging and application kit for a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous materials, comprising: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratinous materials, as defined in any one of the preceding claims, - an applicator for said composition.

28. A method for coating keratinous materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratinous materials such as skin (around the eyes, eyelids), eyelashes and eyebrows, characterized in that it comprises at least the application to the keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 26.

29.