Skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials comprising at least one volatile solvent, a specific polyester, and a colorant

Abstract

Title: Composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising at least one volatile solvent, a particular polyester and a coloring agent. The present invention relates to a liquid composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: A) at least one volatile solvent; B) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacting being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimeric acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid; and C) optionally at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0; and D) at least one coloring material.The invention also relates to a method of coating keratinous materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratinous materials, such as skin, characterized in that it comprises the application on keratinous materials of a composition as defined above.

Description

Title of the invention: Skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials comprising at least one volatile solvent, a specific polyester, and a colorant. Technical field

[0001] The present invention aims to provide, for the field of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, lips, eyelashes and eyebrows, a composition comprising a particular polyester.

[0002] Many cosmetic makeup compositions containing coloring agents, such as foundations, concealers, lipsticks, lip glosses, and mascaras, have been developed for longer wear and transfer-resistant properties. This is achieved through the use of compositions that form a film after application. Such compositions generally contain volatile solvents that evaporate upon contact with the skin or other keratinous material, leaving behind a layer comprising waxes and / or film-forming polymers, pigments, and fillers. However, these compositions tend to be uncomfortable for the consumer from a sensory perspective.

[0003] Poor durability can be reflected in particular by poor color and / or composition retention over time. This poor durability can be characterized by a change in color (fading, discoloration), generally resulting from interaction with sebum and / or moisture such as perspiration, secreted by the skin in the case of foundation, or from interaction with saliva in the case of lipsticks. This forces the user to reapply makeup very frequently, which can be a waste of time.

[0004] It has already been proposed in prior art makeup compositions to use liquid or paste polyesters to obtain holding properties.

[0005] In particular, documents JP2002-128623, JP2002-128628, JP2002-128629 and EP1604634 can be cited, which describe dilinoleic diacid and dilinoleic diol dimer polyesters with the INCI name DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE such as those marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade names LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®.

[0006] We can also cite patent EP1857091B1 describing polyesters obtained by reacting a) diglycerol, b) isostearic acid and c) an acid dimer such as dilinoleic diacid in a molar ratio a) / b) / c) of 1 / 1.4 to 1.6 / 0.5 to 0.8 such as the INCI name polyester Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer sold under the trade name Hailucent Isda® by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo.

[0007] To obtain hold properties in makeup compositions, polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and diol have also been proposed in document FR29316739, in particular the polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and diol is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol such as the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name VISCOPLAST 14436H® (INCI name: DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER).

[0008] It is also known to use, particularly in documents FR2931069, JP2005-325079, JP2006-28129, polyesters of hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated fatty acid diacid to provide hold to makeup compositions. Examples of polyesters include, in particular, those with the INCI name HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER, such as the product marketed under the name CRODABOND CSA® by CRODA, and the hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate with the INCI name HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE, such as the product marketed under the names RISOCAST-DA-L®, RISOCAST DA-H®, by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO.

[0009] Other pasty glycerol polyesters, in particular diglycerol polyesters, notably Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 marketed under the brand name Softisan 649® by the company Sasol, have been proposed in makeup compositions such as mascaras in document WO2017103235.

[0010] The applicant found during its research that liquid makeup compositions containing the aforementioned polyesters were not entirely satisfactory in terms of makeup hold and transfer resistance for foundations, and in terms of moisture and rub resistance for mascaras. The applicant also observed that liquid lip makeup products containing the aforementioned polyesters resulted in unsatisfactory film adhesion and removal results. These polyesters can lead to application, delamination, or a film that runs between the lips after pressing them together (blotting). Furthermore, the applicant observed that the films broke down into pieces upon removal.

[0011] There remains a need to find new liquid formulas for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials based on a suitable polyester leading to good adhesion of the deposit (friction, humidity), good non-transfer properties without the disadvantages mentioned above.

[0012] During its research, the applicant unexpectedly discovered that these objectives could be achieved with a liquid composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: A) at least one volatile solvent B) at least one polyester that is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one fatty acid mono-compound having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acid mono-compound; and C) possibly at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0; and D) at least one coloring material.

[0013] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention

[0014] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a liquid composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: A) at least one volatile solvent; and B) at least one polyester that is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and C) possibly at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0; and D) at least one coloring material.

[0015] The invention also relates to a method of coating keratinous materials, more particularly of makeup and / or care of keratinous materials, such as skin, lips, eyelashes and eyebrows, characterized in that it comprises at least the application on the keratinous materials of a composition as defined above. Definitions

[0016] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratinous material" means in particular the skin (body, face, eye contour), lips, eyelashes and eyebrows.

[0017] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomforts (tingling, pulling), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0018] By "liquid composition" is meant any composition which has one or both of the following characteristics: i) flows by its own weight at room temperature ((20-25 °C)) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 .105 Pa); ii) is not solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and whose viscosity or consistency, characterized by its hardness, can be measured; iii) does not have any particular shape such as that which can be obtained by hot casting in a mold or container of a given shape.

[0019] Such compositions can therefore be found in particular in fluid, creamy, pasty or gel form.

[0020] The term "polyester" refers to any polymer obtained by the condensation reaction of polycarboxylic acids with alcohols or glycols. Its macromolecular skeleton contains a repeating ester functional group. The ester functional group is a characteristic group formed by an atom bonded simultaneously to an oxygen atom by a double bond and to an alkoxy group. When the bonded atom is a carbon atom, it is called a carboxylic ester, whose general formula is R-COO-R'.

[0021] By "polyglycerol-3" is meant triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol, and preferably triglycerol is the major component in said mixture. Protocol for viscosity measurement:

[0022] Viscosity measurement is generally carried out at 25°C, using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a wheel no. 2, no. 3 or no. 4, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the wheel within the composition (time at the end of which a stabilization of the viscosity and the rotation speed of the wheel is observed), at a speed of 200 revolutions / min (rpm).

[0023] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention can have at 25°C a viscosity of between 0.1 and 25 Pa.s, preferably between 0.2 and 20 Pa.s.

[0024] Preferably, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention can be between 0.2 and 10 Pa.s.

[0025] In particular, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention can be between 0.1 Pa.s (mobile 2) and 25 Pa.s (mobile 4), preferably between 0.2 Pa.s (mobile 2) and 20 Pa.s (mobile 4), and better between 0.2 Pa.s (mobile 2) and 10 Pa.s (mobile 4). Protocol for measuring consistency

[0026] According to a particular form, the composition according to the invention has at 25°C a consistency characterized by a hardness less than or equal to 250 g preferably, a hardness ranging from 20 to 150 g, even more preferably from 25 to 100 g.

[0027] Consistency can be measured according to the following protocol:

[0028] The measuring device is a TA-XT-Plus® sold by STAPLES MICRO SYSTEM, equipped with a 5-kilogram force measuring cell and a 12.7 mm (1 / 2 inch) diameter cylindrical Delrin spindle. The composition is thermostated to 20 °C. It is then placed in excess into a container 60 mm in diameter and 22 mm deep using a metal spatula. The product is spread to avoid any air pockets but without tumbling it so as not to disrupt its structure. The container is then leveled with a spatula to obtain the most even surface possible. The container is then covered with a watch glass to limit the evaporation of solvents present in the formula for about ten minutes. The options selected for this measurement method are as follows: Test mode: Compression measurement Trigger force: 2.0 g Pre-speed: 0.5mm / sec Test speed: 0.5 mm / sec Temperature: 20 °C + / - 1 °C Penetration distance: 5 mm

[0029] Three successive measurements are taken at points separated by at least 12 mm, at least 10 mm from the edge of the container. The container is held in place during the measurement. The value retained is the average of the maxima obtained at each measurement. Volatile solvents

[0030] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one volatile solvent.

[0031] In the context of the invention, volatile solvent means a liquid compound at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) having a vapor pressure at 20 °C greater than 0.1 mm Hg and preferably between 0.1 and 300 mm Hg, even more preferably between 0.5 and 200 mm Hg.

[0032] Among volatile solvents, the following may be mentioned: - water; - monoalcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms - esters of liquid acids and alcohols such as methyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, isopentyl acetate, ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate; - Liquid ketones at room temperature and volatile such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone, acetone; - Volatile polyols such as propylene glycol; - volatile ethers such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxyethane, diethyl ether; - volatile glycol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, butyl diglycol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol n-butyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate; - volatile oils.

[0033] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the volatile solvent is selected from: - water, - monoalcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms; - volatile oils; - their mixtures. Water

[0034] A suitable water for the invention may be demineralized water, floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water. C2-C6 monoalcohol

[0035] The monoalcohol(s) according to the invention comprise, preferably, from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0036] The monoalcohol(s) can be represented for example by the formula RaOH, in which Ra represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0037] Examples of mono-alcohols include ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol, and more particularly ethanol.

[0038] According to an advantageous embodiment, the quantity of mono-alcohol(s) varies from 0 to 60% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. volatile oil

[0039] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 105Pa).

[0040] Volatile oils according to the invention can be chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and their mixtures.

[0041] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0042] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing predominantly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

[0043] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.

[0044] By way of example of volatile silicone oil usable in the invention, one can cite volatile silicone oils, such as linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 2 to 8 centistokes (2.106 to 8.106 m2 / s), and containing in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples of volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.

[0045] The volatile hydrocarbon oils usable in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from among the C8-Ci6 branched alkanes.

[0046] We can cite in particular as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopar® or Permetyl®.

[0047] C8-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate can also be mentioned. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the Shell company, can also be used.

[0048] The volatile hydrocarbon oils usable in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from among the volatile linear alkanes comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0049] As an example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.

[0050] By way of example of linear C6-Ci4 alkanes suitable for the invention, n-hexane (C6); n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (Ci2), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (Ci4), and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Notable examples include n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12 97® and PARAFOL 14 97® respectively, as well as their mixtures.

[0052] According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used. In particular, the dodecane / tetradecane mixture in the weight ratio 85 / 15 marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT 1214® can be used.

[0053] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in C9-Ci2de INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE is used, such as the product marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT SILK®.

[0054] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (C13) is used, such as those obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis and such as that sold under the trade name CETIOL ULTIMATE® by BASF.

[0055] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from among the C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, and more particularly isododecane, the mixture of C9-Ci2 volatile linear alkanes and the mixture of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (C13).

[0056] The oil or volatile oils are preferably present in the composition of the invention at levels of less than 60.0% by weight, preferably less than 50.0% and even more preferably less than 40.0% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0057] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the volatile solvent(s) are present in the composition of the invention at levels ranging from 5 to 75% by weight, preferably from 10 to 70% by weight, and even more preferably from 20 to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0058] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total quantity of volatile solvent(s) to the quantity of polyester is greater than 1.0.

[0059] Polyglycerol-3 polyester / dimer acid / monofatty acid in C g -C jn

[0060] The composition according to the invention includes at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids.

[0061] The polyesters of the invention are described together with their synthesis in US patent applications 2021 / 0259945, US 2021 / 0259946 and US 2021 / 0259930.

[0062] According to a preferred embodiment, the quantity of active polyester material varies from 1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 30% and even more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product.

[0064] By "substantially non-sequential reaction product", we mean the product obtained by a substantially non-sequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iii).

[0065] By "totally non-sequential reaction of the reactant components (i)-(iii)", it is meant that the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0066] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before the reaction begins, i.e., the reaction is completely non-sequential, and the polymer is a completely non-sequential reaction product of components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70-100%, or 75-100%, or 80-100%, or 85-100%, or 90-100%, or 95-100%, or 97-100% of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) are added to the reaction vessel before the reaction begins.

[0067] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0068] Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3-OH in which Gly designates a remainder of glycerol after the removal of two hydroxyl groups.

[0069] A polyglycerol-3 according to the invention in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol comprises polyglycerols that may be any which oligocondensation product of glycerol. They preferably correspond to formula (I): [Chem 1] ïl[—(I)

[0070] in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

[0071] Generally, most Gly groups are of the formula: -CH2-CHOH-CH2-, although residues including etherification at secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are considered to be within the "Gly" category and, therefore, may also be present.

[0072] Examples of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form include diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol, and mixtures thereof. In particular, preferred polyglycerols are those of formula (I) in which n is in particular from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5, and especially 2, 3, or 4, or mixtures of polyglycerols in these ranges.

[0073] Particularly suitable examples of polyglycerol-3 include a mixture of polyglycerols having the following distribution in which all weight percentages are based with respect to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form. - glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight, preferably 0 to 20% by weight, preferably 0 to 15% by weight; - diglycerol: 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 32% by weight; - triglycerol: 10 to 65% by weight, preferably 15 to 60% by weight, preferably 18 to 55% by weight; - tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, preferably 8 to 20% by weight; - pentaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - hexaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - heptaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - octaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - nonaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, preferably 0 to 2% by weight; - decaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, preferably 0 to 2% by weight.

[0074] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprises the following polyglycerol distribution: Glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight; Diglycerol: 15 to 40% by weight; Triglycerol: 10 to 55% by weight; Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight; Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 as a mixture.

[0075] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form is composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0076] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 is composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol; wherein all the weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0077] A particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0078] Analysis of such a polyglycerol-3 composition can be performed to determine its median or "mean" polyglycerol number. The examples of polyglycerols above with narrow and broad distributions can also be designated as polyglycerol-3, since this is the integer closest to the mean and / or median. Dimer acid

[0079] The dimeric acid can be any dicarboxylic acid having at least 4 carbon atoms. They can be linear or branched, such as for example the dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid, and their anhydrides.

[0080] Dimeric fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, they are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids obtained by a catalyzed dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0081] For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, reference should be made to the publication "The Dimer Acids: The Chemical and physical properties, reactions and applications", Ed. EC Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0082] Dicarboxylic acids may also contain, to a lesser extent, tri- and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture should not exceed an average molar value of 2.4.

[0083] Preferred dimeric acids are typically derived from triglycerides rich in C[8] ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce unsaturated C[8] mono-fatty acids. Raw materials can be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources such as flaxseed, soybeans, pumpkin seeds, and walnuts can be used. The target mono-acids used in the reaction are rich in the forms of oleic and linoleic acids described in the fatty acid list below. Dimerization leads primarily to the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After the reaction, the product can be stored as a mixture of reaction products or it can be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions.In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) of dimeric acid (C36 diacid) but also produces C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).

[0084] In one case, a standard dimeric acid commercially available from Croda, Pripol 1025®, is used, which contains 72% by weight of dimer and 19% by weight of trimer acid.

[0085] In another case, a hydrogenated standard dimeric acid from Oleon, Radiacid 0960®, is used, which contains 87 wt% dimer and 10 wt% trimeric acid. In both cases, the polymer as described is characterized by a higher molecular weight, greater hydrophobicity, and higher viscosity than those that can be provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of trimeric acid further improves the molecular weight and performance of these polymers.

[0086] In one embodiment, the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid.

[0087] In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated dimeric acid comprising hydrogenated dimerized Ci8 fatty acids, which hydrogenated dimeric acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated Ci8 fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.

[0088] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a trimer acid content ranging from about 5 to 25% by weight, based on a total weight of hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0089] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimeric acid contains a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight, but at most 95% by weight, or better yet at most 90% by weight, or even better at most 85% by weight) of hydrogenated dimeric acid (C36 diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54 trimeric acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight). C8-C30 monofatty acid

[0090] C8-C30 mono-fatty acids can include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oils, etc., but these contain both lower and higher molecular weight chains. Useful mono-fatty acids can be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated, and aromatic, with acidity provided by carboxylic acid fractions.

[0091] Acids suitable for the invention include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (Ci0), undecylic acid (Cn), lauric acid (Ci2), tridecylic acid (Ci3), myristic acid (Ci4), pentadecylic acid (C15), palmitic acid (Ci6), margaric acid (Cn), stearic acid (Ci8), isostearic acid (Ci8), nonadecyl acid (Ci9), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0092] A comparison of stearic and isostearic acids shows that branching leads to a high melting point and results in low viscosity at room temperature for isostearic acid, compared to a solid material for stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful in handling raw materials and also to allow esters made with this acid to retain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids often contain a single methyl group along the linear carbon chain and are produced in nature by microbial action. Isotearic acid is available as a reaction byproduct in the creation of the dimeric acid described above.

[0093] Another way to obtain a liquid product is to use linear and branched unsaturated mono-fatty acids. These unsaturated acids may include palmitoleic acid (C16:l), vaccenic acid (C18:l), oleic acid (C18:l), elaidic acid (C18:l), linoleic acid (C18:2), linolelaidic acid (C18:2), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), γ-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paullinic acid (C20:l), gondoic acid (C20:l), dihomo-γ-linolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:l), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), cervonic acid (C22:6) and nervonic acid (C24:l). As is well known to those skilled in the art, the designation means that the length of the carbon chain is X carbon atoms; and there are Y double bonds in the chain.

[0094] In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.

[0095] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and iii) isostearic acid.

[0096] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0097] In one embodiment, it is preferable to have a total degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments (total esterification) of 24% to 74% and a degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments by a dimer acid alone (esterification with a dimer acid) of 20% to 40%. Most importantly, the degree of esterification by the end-cap units (esterification with a monoacid) is also defined in this description, and it is important to maintain the esterification with a monoacid of 4% to 40%.

[0098] 11 It is preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a dimeric acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0099] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 33% to 48% with an esterification with a dimeric acid of 20% to 28% and an esterification with a monoacid between 13% and 20%.

[0100] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 24% to 74% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of 20% to 40% and an esterification with a monoacid between 4% and 40%.

[0101] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0102] It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 20% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 20%.

[0103] It is also even more preferable to have also most preferred a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0104] In one embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of fatty acid.

[0105] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0106] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0107] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0108] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0109] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0110] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0111] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0112] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0113] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 0.67 mole of isostearic acid.

[0114] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0115] By adjusting the molar ratio of fatty acid termination and balancing the amount of polyglycerol-3 and dimer acid, it is also possible to control the degree of dimer-polyglycerol extension and termination so that crosslinking, for example, via the acid trimer, leads to much higher viscosities.

[0116] The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be > 50,000 mPa.s and less than 5,000,000 mPa.s at 25 °C.

[0117] In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 75,000 mPa.s and < 2,500,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0118] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0119] In a preferred embodiment of all, the target viscosity is > 1,000,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0120] Viscosity is measured using an MCR3O2® rheometer from Anton Paar Inc. Twin flat plates, either rough or smooth, 50 mm in diameter, were used, coated with a polymer sample, fitted with a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans were performed. The polyesters of the invention exhibit Newtonian behavior and therefore have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. Furthermore, the polymers described have demonstrated a viscosity that decreases with temperature. Thus, the viscosity measurements are reported at a precisely controlled temperature and generally in the form of a shear rate of 1. The values ​​are reported in mPa·s.

[0121] The polyesters of the invention are characterized by average molecular masses by weight > 2500 Da and < 1,000,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0122] The GPC column used for these tests consisted of: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous phase of Tetrahydrofuran (THF) was used and injected at 0.35 ml / min, column oven maintained at 40°C; a 50 pL injection and an index detector Wyatt Ri refractive index. The calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrene intended for monodisperse application. The narrow-range polystyrene GPC calibration standards were prepared in the mobile phase and had maximum molecular weights of 1,290,000 Da; 560,000 Da; 65,500 Da; 28,500 Da; 10,100 Da; 1,680 Da; 580 Da; and 208 Da. Using standard methodologies, the average molecular weight and number mass were automatically calculated by standard GPC software.

[0123] In a preferred embodiment, the described polyesters have a weight-average molecular weight > 4,000 Da and < 250,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In a most preferred embodiment, the described polymers have a weight-average molecular weight > 5,000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0124] In yet another embodiment, the polyester of the invention has a combination of average molecular mass by weight > 5000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards and viscosity at 25°C > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s.

[0125] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid; wherein the polymer exhibits a weight-average molecular weight combination > 5,000 Da and < 15,000 Da measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards and a viscosity of the pure polymer > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C; and wherein the copolymer is also characterized by a total esterification of about 40%, an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0126] In practice, since the crude ingredients contain a range of polyglycerol units and a range of dimer and trimer acid contents, the above numbers can be adjusted using the actual (not theoretical) hydroxyl and carboxylic acid fractions as determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR, and liquid chromatography. The esterification ranges above are based on the ideal structure of polyglycerol-3 and the C36 dimer acid. The actual ranges can therefore be slightly different from the values ​​indicated above and can be calculated on the basis of these analytical values.

[0127] It is more practical to define the extent of polymerization by the final acid value. The initial acid values, in light of the distribution of the polyglycerol, monoacid, and polyacid fractions present, can be reliably calculated using the actual acid value determined by the crude ingredient used.

[0128] For example, the initial total acid number ("AV," which is commonly defined as mg KOH / g of total reagent) is 135 AV. This includes 68 AV for the dimer acid and 67 AV for the isostearic acid for a preferred embodiment containing 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid, and 1 mole of isostearic acid. All preferred ratio embodiments described above have a corresponding initial AV that can be calculated. When, during the polymerization reaction, the AV units are reduced, this ratio gives the percentage conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactive acid fractions to the final residual acid fractions.

[0129] Thus, the completion rate of the reaction is defined by

[0130] (1 - Final AV) / Initial AV.

[0131] In one embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 25 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0132] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 10 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0133] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 5 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0134] The completion rate of the reaction being defined by the equation 1- final AV / initial AV, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures in final polymer is > 80%.

[0135] In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures into the final polymer is > 90%.

[0136] In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures into the final polymer is > 95%.

[0137] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a reaction product of a polyglycerol-3, a C36 hydrogenated dimeric acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of US document 2021 / 0259945. Non-volatile oils

[0138] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) volatile(s) on the quantity of polyester is less than 8.0, and more preferentially varies from 0.5 to 5.

[0139] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa as an example, the vapor pressure may be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0140] Non-volatile oils according to the invention can be chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and their mixtures.

[0141] Examples of non-volatile oils that can be used in the invention include: - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as fatty acid triglycerides containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, such as those marketed by Stéarineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel; triglycerides of C18-C36 branched fatty acids and glycerol, such as that marketed under the name DUB TGI 24® by Stéarineries Dubois (INCI name Cl8-36 Acid Triglyceride); - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, or squalane; - synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether; - synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, triheptanoin, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, heptyl undecylenate, diisostearyl malate and tridecyl trimellitate; - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, comprising a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain with 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol; - higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate; - acetates; - citrates; - Polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone) (particularly those with a viscosity of 50 to 500 cSt (10⁶ m² / s), especially 350 cSt (10⁶ m² / s), such as the commercial products marketed under the names Belsil DM 350® from Wacker, and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid® 350 CS from Dow Corning, and more specifically polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone) with a viscosity of 50 to 150 cSt (10⁶ m² / s), especially 100 cSt (106 m2 / s), such as the commercial products marketed under the names Belsil DM 100® from Wacker, and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 100 CS® from Dow Corning; - Phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates; and - their mixtures.

[0142] According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil will be chosen from hydrocarbon non-volatile oils and more preferably chosen from fatty acid triglycerides containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0143] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises A) at least one volatile solvent as defined above; and B) at least one oily solution comprising: a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) at least one non-volatile oil Hi; C) possibly at least one non-volatile oil H2, identical or different from the oil Hi; D) at least one coloring matter; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0.

[0144] The Hi oil and the H2 oil, identical or different, can be chosen from those described above.

[0145] According to a particular form, Hi oil and H2 oil are identical and designate a fatty acid triglyceride containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0146] The polyester oil solution of the invention can be obtained by mixing the polyester with the oil or non-volatile Hi oils at approximately 80-100°C. The mixture is then further cooled to 50-70°C before being removed from the reactor and stored.

[0147] The polyester oil solution of the invention preferably contains polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0148] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention contains an oily solution comprising 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid relative to the total weight of the oily solution in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oily mixture) of US document 2021 / 0259945.

[0149] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an oily solution comprising a) a polyester obtained by reaction (i) of a polyglycerol-3, and (ii) of a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) of isostearic acid; the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having the INCI name: DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (AND) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE.

[0150] Such an oily solution is marketed under the name SOLAMAZE NATURAL® by the company NOURYON comprising 60% by weight of polyester active matter and 40% by weight of a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride relative to the total weight of the oily solution. Coloring agents

[0151] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one coloring material.

[0152] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring matter can be chosen from powdered coloring materials, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. Powdered coloring materials

[0153] Powdered colouring materials may be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, mother-of-pearls and mixtures thereof.

[0154] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0155] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0156] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, and ZrO2 in mixtures with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, and ZnS.

[0157] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 100 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0158] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 1 Opm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0159] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, the Malvern Master Sizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron and allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0160] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.

[0161] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter preferably being present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0162] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound selected from metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0163] According to a preferred mode, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with an N-acylated amino acid or one of its salts which can include an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0164] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative, which may be, in particular, a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more specifically a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red, and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0165] According to a preferred method, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with isopropyl titanium triisostearyl titanate. Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWB0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and BWRO-12® (Iron Oxide CI77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by KOBO.

[0166] The pigments that can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.

[0167] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0168] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 1725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR2 679 771.

[0169] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0170] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0171] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0172] Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. We can also mention the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0173] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).

[0174] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one powdered colouring material of the mineral pigment type, in particular chosen from metallic oxides, and more particularly chosen from titanium dioxides, iron oxides, coated or uncoated, and mixtures thereof.

[0175] The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0176] Preferably, the powdered coloring material(s) is / are present, preferably, in the composition at a content ranging from 0.5 to 30% by weight, of preferably 1 to 25% by weight, more particularly 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring agents

[0177] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble or fat-soluble colouring material and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0178] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the color effect sought and the colonic intensity provided by the coloring materials considered, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of the person skilled in the art.

[0179] Additional colouring materials suitable for the invention may be liposoluble.

[0180] By "liposoluble colouring material", in the sense of the invention, is meant any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fat and capable of colouring.

[0181] Fat-soluble colorants suitable for the invention may be cited in particular as fat-soluble colorants, synthetic or natural such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes ([3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

[0182]

[00133] Additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble.

[0183]

[00134] For the purposes of this invention, "water-soluble coloring matter" means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

[0184] As examples of suitable water-soluble colorants for the invention, synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants may be cited, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. cosmetic compositions

[0185] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.

[0186] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0187] The compositions according to the invention may include, in addition to additives commonly used in skincare and / or makeup products, such as: - active ingredients such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; - UV filters; - charges; - waxes; - hydrophilic gelling agents; - film-forming agents; - lipophilic gelling agents; - perfumes; - preservatives; - and their mixtures.

[0188] It is a matter of routine practice for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of additives present in compositions according to the invention, so that their desired cosmetic properties are not affected. Charges

[0189] Compositions according to the invention may also include at least one filler enabling, in particular, the provision of additional properties of matte finish, coverage, hold and / or improved stability.

[0190] By "filler" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are insoluble and dispersed in the composition. They give body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness and uniformity to the makeup.

[0191] The fillers can be inorganic or organic.

[0192] Preferably, they can be chosen from natural or naturally sourced fillers.

[0193] By "natural compound" is meant a compound which is obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, by means of, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0194] By "compound of natural origin" is meant a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of that compound and / or a compound comprising mainly natural constituents that have or have not undergone transformations. As As a non-limiting example of ancillary chemical or industrial treatment resulting in modifications not affecting the essential qualities of a natural compound, we can mention those authorized by control bodies such as Ecocert (Reference guide for organic and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toileries Magazine", 2005, vol. 120, 9: 10.

[0195] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0196] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with amino acids or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. a) Mineral fillers

[0197] Examples of mineral fillers include talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica, hydrophobic silica aerogels, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and silica-titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass. b) Organic fillers

[0198] Examples of organic fillers include natural micronized waxes; metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine, cellulose powders such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range.

[0199] Preferably, the filler(s) are present in the composition at a concentration ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes

[0200] For the purposes of the invention, "waxes" means lipophilic compounds, solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), with reversible solid / liquid phase change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C and up to 120°C.

[0201] Waxes described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry 2015, Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA are of particular concern.

[0202] Such waxes may be natural but also synthetic.

[0203] By "natural wax" is meant any wax that pre-exists in nature or that can be transformed, extracted or purified from natural compounds existing in nature.

[0204] Among natural waxes, we can notably mention fossil waxes, including those of petroleum origin such as ozocerite and pyropissite; microcrystalline waxes, also called paraffins—including raw waxes or gatsch, gatsch raffinates, defatted gatsch, soft waxes, semi-refined waxes, filtered waxes, and refined waxes—and microcrystalline waxes, also called microwaxes, including bright stock gatsch. Fossil waxes also include lignite, also called montan wax, or peat wax.

[0205] Natural waxes other than fossil waxes include vegetable waxes.

[0206] Examples of vegetable waxes include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax, sugar cane wax, jojoba wax, Trithrinax campestris wax, raffia wax, alfalfa wax, Douglas fir wax, sisal wax, linseed wax, cotton wax, Batavia dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, rice wax, palm wax, Japanese wax, mixtures and derivatives thereof.

[0207] As an example of natural wax other than vegetable waxes, beeswax may be mentioned.

[0208] By “synthetic” wax, we mean waxes whose synthesis requires a or several man-made chemical reactions.

[0209] Among synthetic waxes, a distinction can be made between semi-synthetic and fully synthetic waxes. Synthetic waxes can be waxes obtained by a Fischer-Tropsch process, consisting, for example, of paraffins with a number of carbon atoms ranging from 20 to 50, or polyolefin waxes, for example, homo- or copolymers of ethylene, propene, or butene, or even of longer-chain α-olefins. The latter can be obtained by thermomechanical degradation of polyethylene plastic, by the Ziegler process, by high-pressure processes, or via processes catalyzed by metallocene species. These waxes can be crystallizable, partially crystallizable, or amorphous.The aforementioned synthetic waxes are generally non-polar and can be chemically treated to obtain polar waxes, for example by one or more of the following reactions: oxidation in air, grafting, esterification, neutralization by metallic soaps, amidation, direct copolymerizations or addition reactions.

[0210] Preferably the waxes will be chosen from waxes of vegetable origin such as carnauba wax. Gelling agents

[0211] Depending on the viscosity of the composition to be obtained, one or more hydrophilic gelling agents, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water and / or one or more lipophilic gelling agents, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water, can be incorporated into a composition of the invention.

[0212] Preferably, hydrophilic gelling agents and / or lipophilic gelling agents will be chosen from natural or naturally derived gelling agents. Hydrophilic gelling agents

[0213] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include, in particular, polysaccharide biopolymers such as pullulan, xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, celluloses such as cellulose gums, microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, and hydroxypropylcellulose; and mixtures thereof. Lipophilic gelling agents

[0214] Lipophilic gelling agents include, for example, lipophilic clays.

[0215] According to a particularly preferred form, the composition of the invention further contains at least one lipophilic clay.

[0216] The term “lipophilic clay” means any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in the oily phase of the composition.

[0217] Clay refers to a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates with a lamellar structure.

[0218] Clays can be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C22 C10 ammonium chloride, in particular steralkonium chloride or di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride.

[0219] They can be chosen from among bentonites, in particular bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

[0220] Preferably, they are chosen from among the hectorites and the bentonites.

[0221] In a particularly preferred form, a lipophilic clay selected from hydrophobic modified bentonites and hydrophobic modified hectorites, in particular modified by a quaternary ammonium chloride in C22-ClO, such as: - a bentonite modified by stearalkonium chloride such as the commercial products sold under the names CLAYTONE AF®, GARAMITE VT®, TIXOGEL® LG-M, TIXOGEL® MP 250, TIXOGEL® VZ, TIXOGEL® VZ-V XR, by BYK Additives Inc; the commercial products sold under the names VISCOGEL® B3, VISCOGEL® B4, VISCOGEL® B7, VISCOGEL® B8, VISCOGEL® ED, VISCOGEL® GM, VISCOGEL® S4, VISCOGEL® SD by the company Bentec SPA; - a bentonite modified by stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil such as the commercial products DUB VELVET GUM® from STEARINERIE DUBOIS FILS, MYGLYOL GEL T® from Cremer Oleo, TIXOGEL® CGT 6030, TIXOGEL® DBA 6060, TIXOGEL® FTN, TIXOGEL® FTN 1564, TIXOGEL® IPM, TIXOGEL® LAN, TIXOGEL® LAN 1563 by BYK Additives Inc; - a hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE) such as, for example, that marketed under the name BENTONE® 38VCG RHEOLOGICAL ADDITIVE by Elementis Specialities; - a hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil such as the commercial products sold under the name BENTONE® GEL DOA V, BENTONE® GEL EUG V, BENTONE® GEL IHD V, BENTONE® GEL ISD V, BENTONE® GEL MIO V® BENTONE® GEL PTM V® BENTONE® SS-71 V, BENTONE® VS-5 PC V, BENTONE® VS-5 by the company Elementis Specialities; the commercial products sold under the name CREAGEL BENTONE CPS / HECTONE CPS, CREAGEL BENTONE ID / HECTONE ID by the company Créations Couleurs; the commercial products sold under the name NS GEL DM1®, NS GEL PTIS®, NS MGEL 1152® by the company Next Step Laboratories Stop.

[0222] Lipophilic clay or clays may be present in the composition at concentrations ranging, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0223] As lipophilic gelling agents, dextrin and fatty acid esters, in particular in C12 to C24, preferably in C1 to C18, or mixtures thereof, may also be mentioned.

[0224] More preferably, the dextrin ester is a dextrin and fatty acid ester in Ci2-Ci8, in particular in Ci4-Ci8.

[0225] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate.

[0226] In a particularly preferred manner, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This can, for example, be selected from those marketed under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the Chiba Flour Milling company.

[0227] Preferably, the dextrin ester may be present in the composition at concentrations ranging, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Film-forming agents

[0228] In this application, "film-forming agent" means any molecule capable of forming, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous deposit on a support, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0229] As a film-forming agent, alkyl celluloses can be cited, in particular those whose alkyl residue comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, especially between 2 and 3 carbon atoms.

[0230] According to a particular embodiment, the alkylcellulose defined above and preferably ethylcellulose, represents a content of 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; the weight of ethylcellulose being expressed in dry matter.

[0231] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 4 to 20% by weight, expressed as dry matter of alkylcellulose, more particularly from 4.5 to 15% by weight, expressed as dry matter of alkylcellulose, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0232] Alkylcellulose is an alkyl cellulose ether comprising a chain made up of [3-anhydroglucose] units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction: RONa + R'Cl → ROR' + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical and R' represents a C2-C6 alkyl radical.

[0233] Advantageously, alkylcellulose can be selected from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose.

[0234] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, alkylcellulose may be ethylcellulose.

[0235] This is a cellulose ethyl ether.

[0236] Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead to a degree of substitution of 3 for each anhydroglucose unit, in other words to an alkoxy group content of 54.88%.

[0237] The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising an ethoxy group content ranging from 44 to 50%.

[0238] Alkylcellulose can be implemented in powder form, such as the products in the ETHOCEL Standard range from Dow Chemicals or the commercial product AQUALON EC N7® sold by Ashland. Composition form

[0239] The applications of the compositions according to the invention are numerous and concern all cosmetic products comprising a coloring matter.

[0240] The composition of the invention may be in the form of milk, cream, paste and gel. It may be anhydrous, or contain an aqueous phase.

[0241] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "anhydrous composition" means respectively a composition which contains less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water by weight of its total weight, and in particular a composition free of water.

[0242] Compositions containing an aqueous phase may be in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, in the form of a multiple emulsion or a simple dispersion of an oily phase in an aqueous phase or vice versa.

[0243] The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a colored composition, a skin care composition, or a sun protection composition. If it contains cosmetic active ingredients, it can then be used as a base for skin such as hands or face, or for lips (lip balms, protecting the lips from cold and / or sun and / or wind).

[0244] The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a skin coloured makeup product, in particular for the face such as foundation, eyeshadow, concealer, body makeup such as semi-permanent tattoo product or lip makeup such as lipstick or lip gloss, a makeup product for keratin fibres such as eyelashes and eyebrows such as mascara, eyeliner.

[0245] The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the cosmetic field.

[0246] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising one" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0247] The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0248] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples shown below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as mass percentages.

[0249] Example 1 (invention) and comparative examples aa, 1b and le: foundations

[0250] Example 1 of the invention was prepared containing the oily solution of The polyester of the invention is DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (60%) and CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%). The total amount of non-volatile CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE oil in the composition is 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0251] We have prepared comparative examples aa, 1b and the off-invention.

[0252] Comparative example a is of identical composition with the same total quantity of non-volatile oil but does not contain polyester.

[0253] Comparative example 1b is of identical composition with the same total quantity of non-volatile oil but contains instead of the polyester of the invention, the polyester HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER (CRODABOND CSA® - CRODA).

[0254] The comparative example is of identical composition with the same total quantity of non-volatile oil but contains instead of the polyester of the invention, the polyester DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE (LUSPLAN DD-DA7® - NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL).

[0255] [Tables 1] Ingrédients Exemple 1 (Inventio n) Exemple la (Comparât if) Exemple 1b (Comparât if) Exemple le (Comparât if) ISODODECANE qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 UNDECANE (and) TRI DECANE (CETIOL ULTIMATE-® B ASF) 15 15 15 15 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TR IGLYCERIDE 11,67 15 15 15 DIISOSTEAROYL POLY GLYCERYL-3 DIMER D ILINOLEATE (60%) (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRI GLYCERIDE (40%) (SOLAMAZE NATUR AL®-NOURYON) 8,33 HYDROGENATED CA STOR OIL / SEBACIC A CID COPOLYMER (CRODABOND CSA®-CRODA)) 5 DIMER DILINOLEYL D IMER DILINOLEATE (LUSPLAN DD-DA7® - NI PPON FINE CHEMICAL) 5 DISTEARDIMONIUM HE CTORITE (BENTONE 38 VCG RH EOLOGICAL ADDITIVE ® - ELEMENTIS) 3 3 3 3 SYNTHETIC FLUORPHL OGOPITE 1,22 1,22 1,22 1,22 TITANIUM DIOXIDE ( and) DISODIUM STEA 8,71 8,71 8,71 8,71 ROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYD ROXIDE / CI 77891 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) AL UMINUM HYDROXIDE IRON OXIDES (and) DIS ODIUM STEAROYL GLU TAMATE (and) ALUMI NUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77499 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMAT E (and) ALUMINUM H YDROXIDE 0.17 0.17 0.17 0.17 IRON OXIDES (and) DIS ODIUM STEAROYL GLU TAMATE (and) ALUMI NUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77491 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMAT E (and) ALUMINUM H YDROXIDE 0.52 0.52 0.52 0.52 IRON OXIDES (and) DIS ODIUM STEAROYL GLU TAMATE (and) ALUMI NUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77492 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMAT E (and) ALUMINUM H YDROXIDE 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 ABSOLUTE ALCOHOL 12 12 12 12 Ratio % Non-volatile oil / % Polyester 3.00 ND 3.00 3.00 Preparation method

[0256] In a final beaker, the undecane / tridecane mixture, polyester, and isododecane were mixed. The mixture was stirred under a rotor stator for 5 minutes at 500 rpm.

[0257] The modified hectorite was sprinkled under rotor stator at 1500 rpm and then left under agitation for 15 minutes.

[0258] The mixture of pigments and synthetic mica was sprinkled under rotor stator at 2000 rpm and then left under agitation for 15 minutes.

[0259] The temperature of the bulk product was checked. If the temperature increased, the beaker was placed in a cold water bath.

[0260] The alcohol was added at the end at room temperature (below 30°C) under rotor-stator at 1000 rpm. It was left under agitation for another 5 minutes and then packaged. In vitro tests of stability and non-transfer

[0261] The resistance to friction and the non-transfer of example 1 of the invention and comparative examples 1a, 1b and 1e were evaluated according to the following protocol:

[0262] A 25 µm film was produced using a film gun on an Erichsen contrast card. This film was oven-dried at 37°C for 24 h. A 2 kg weight with a Wypall® fabric covering was placed statically on the card for 20 s, then removed.

[0263] Observation of the colouring of the Wypall® fabric gave indications on the transfer and observation of the degradation of the deposit on the contrast card gave indications on the hold of the foundations.

[0264] The colouring of the fabric and the degradation of the deposit were noted on a scale of 0 to 5. 0 corresponds to "no trace" and no degradation of the deposit and 5 corresponds to a strong colouring of Wypall® and a strong degradation of the deposit.

[0265] The results obtained are shown in the table below.

[0266] [Tables2] Observations Example 1 (Invention) Example 1a (Comparative) Example 1b (Comparative) Example 1 (Comparative) Deposition degradation 0 3 2 3.5 Fabric staining 0 3 1 2

[0267] According to the observations and notations, example 1 of the invention according to the invention showed superior holding and non-transfer qualities compared to comparative examples 1a, 1b and 1e.

[0268] Example 2 (invention) and comparative examples 2a, 2b and 2c: lipsticks

[0269] Composition 2 according to the invention was prepared containing 10% by weight of a mixture of polyester Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (6% by weight) and Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (4% by weight).

[0270] Comparative examples 2a, 2b, outside the scope of invention, have been prepared: Comparative example 2a has an identical composition except that the polyester is replaced by the same content of Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2. Comparative example 2b has an identical composition except that polyester is replaced by the same content of Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate.

[0271] The compositions are detailed in the table below.

[0272] [Tables3] Ingredients (chemical name or INCI name) Invention 2 Comparati f 2a Comparati f2b Isododecane 34.15 34.15 34.15 Absolute ethanol 34.15 34.15 34.15 Ethylcellulose (Aqualon EC N7® - Ashland) 11.7 11.7 11.7 Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinol eate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (SolAmaze Natural®-Nouryon) 10 Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 649® - Sasol) 10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate (Risocast-DA-L® - Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo) 10 Red 7 / CI 15850 10 10 10 Method of preparing the compositions:

[0273] In a beaker, a portion of the isododecane, alcohol, and polyester (SolAmaze®, Softisan®, or Risocast®) were mixed. The mixture was stirred under a RAYNERI flocculator for 2 minutes at 500 rpm. Ethylcellulose was then sprinkled in under a deflocculator at 500 rpm (into the vortex) and the mixture was left to stir for 10 minutes. The pigment, previously ground in a three-roll mill with the remaining isododecane, was added. Evaluation of compositions:

[0274] a. Protocol for evaluating the suit#

[0275] Each composition was applied to an Erichsen contrast card, using a spreader, in a deposit with a thickness of 24.5 µm, over a width of at least 6 cm, and was left to dry on a hot plate for 40 minutes at 32°C.

[0276] Three 2 cm strips of Wypall® (Kimberley Clark) were placed on the deposit without overlapping: * the first strip is dry, * the second strip is soaked in distilled water (0.1ml), * the third one is soaked in olive oil (0.1ml).

[0277] The film puller weighted with a weight of 2 kg was placed on the whole of the strips, and the whole was moved on the film.

[0278] The state of the deposit was observed. The operation was repeated for each of the prepared compositions. a. Outfit rating #

[0279] [Tables4] Deposit Condition Rating: 1 Total or near-total removal of the deposit from the tested area; the substrate surface is visible in many places. 2 Partial removal of the deposit from the tested area; the substrate surface is visible in some places. 3 Slight removal of the deposit, revealing the substrate in a few places. 4 No significant variation in the deposit's color (homogeneity, color). 5 No variation in the deposit's appearance (homogeneity, color). a. Results:#

[0280] [Tableauxô Invention 1 Comparative the Comparative the Deposition upon application Homogeneous, intense Homogeneous, slightly less intense Homogeneous, intense Deposition after durability tests Dry 5 5 3 With water 5 5 3 With oil 5 1 3

[0281] The above results confirmed the superiority of the composition according to the invention. In particular, it made it possible to obtain a homogeneous, intense deposit whose resistance to dryness, water, and oil was significantly improved.

[0282] Example 3 (invention) and comparative examples 3a, 3b and 3c: mascaras

[0283] Example 3 of the invention was prepared containing 5% by weight of the polyester oily solution of the invention DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (60%) (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%).

[0284] Comparative examples 3a, 3b and 3c have been prepared outside of the invention.

[0285] Comparative example 3a is of identical composition but contains, instead of the polyester oily solution of the invention, the polyester DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER (VISCOPLAST 14436H® - BIOSYNTHIS) with the same quantity of raw material (5% by weight).

[0286] Comparative example 3b is of identical composition but contains, instead of the polyester oil solution of the invention, the polyester HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER (CRODABOND CSA® - CRODA) with the same quantity of raw material (5% by weight).

[0287] Comparative example 3c is of identical composition but contains, instead of the polyester oily solution of the invention, the polyester DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE (LUSPLAN DD-DA7® - NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL) with the same quantity of raw material (5% by weight).

[0288] Tables 6] Ingrédients Exemple 3 (Inventio n) Exemple 3 a (Compa ratif) Exemple 3b (Compa ratif) Exemple 3 c (Compa ratif) C9-12 ALKANE (VEGELIGHT SILK® - BIOSY NTHIS) qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 CIRES NATURELLES (cire de son de riz, cire de camauba) 30 30 30 30 KAOLIN (IMERCARE 04K® - IMERYS) 2 2 2 2 IRON OXIDES (UNIPURE TRIPLE BLACK LC 99 0® -SENSIENT) 4,2 4,2 4,2 4,2 DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCER YL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE ( 60%) (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%) (SOLAMAZE NATURAL®-NOU RYON) 5 DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDI OL COPOLYMER (VISCOPLAST 14436H® - BIOSY NTHIS) 5 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER (CRODABOND CSA® - CRODA)) 5 DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER D ILINOLEATE (LUSPLAN DD-DA7® - NIPPON F INE CHEMICAL) 5 DEXTRIN PALMITATE (RHEOPEARL TL2® - CHIBA FL OUR MILLING) 2 2 2 2 WATER 20 20 20 20 PULLULAN 4 4 4 4 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEAR ATE (LAMEFORM TGI® - BASF) 2 2 2 2 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 SODIUM DEHYDROACETATE 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 ABSOLUTE ALCOHOL 3 3 3 3 Ratio % Non-volatile oil / % Polyester 0.67 0 0 0 Preparation protocol

[0289] The raw materials were pre-weighed using a balance (accuracy = 0.01 g). The ingredients, except for the ethanol, were introduced into a temperature-controlled manufacturing tank. The target temperature was set at 90°C. The mixture was emulsified at 90°C after complete melting for 15 minutes under vigorous rotor-stator stirring. It was then cooled to 30°C under rotor-stator stirring. The ethanol was added at 30°C under rotor-stator stirring. Comparative test of mascara hold on eyelashes

[0290] To evaluate the mascara's staying power, each sample was applied to a test tube of false eyelashes and left to dry for 4 hours. The test tube was then sprayed with water and placed on a support. Five back-and-forth movements were made with a finger to simulate rubbing. The intensity of the black smear and the amount of black deposit lost were evaluated.

[0291] The following notations A, B, C and D were given for the evaluation of flake formation due to crumbling: A: no crumbling was observed; B: slight crumbling was observed; C: crumbling has been observed; D: significant crumbling is observed.

[0292] The following notations A, B, C and D were given for the evaluation of the tendency to make traces. A: no trace was observed; B: a light trace was observed; C: a trace was observed.

[0293] The results obtained are shown in the table below.

[0294] [Tableauxô] Observations Example 3 (Invention) Example 3a (Comparative) Example 3b (Comparative) Example 3c (Comparative) Stain resistance ABCB Stain resistance ABBC

[0295] According to the observations and notations, example 3 according to the invention showed superior water resistance and friction qualities compared to comparative examples 3a, 3b and 3c.

Claims

Demands

1. Liquid composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: A) at least one volatile solvent; B) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid; and C) optionally at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0; and D) at least one colorant.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

4. Composition any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyglycerol-3 is triglycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; said polyglycerols conforming to formula (I) in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprising at least 25 wt% diglycerol, at least 45 wt% triglycerol and at least 10 wt% tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60 wt% hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25 wt% hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of the hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile solvent is selected from - water, - monoalcohols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms; - volatile oils; - mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to claim 9, wherein the quantity of mono-alcohols) varies from 0 to 60% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

11. Composition according to claim 9, wherein the oil or volatile oils are present at levels of less than 60.0% by weight, preferably less than 50.0% and even more preferably less than 40.0% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of volatile solvent(s) to the amount of polyester is greater than 1.

0.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is anhydrous and comprises a mixture of hydrocarbon volatile oil(s) and monoalcohol, in particular, the hydrocarbon volatile oil is selected from isododecane, a mixture of undecane and tridecane and mixtures thereof and the monoalcohol is ethanol.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition is aqueous and comprises a mixture of water, hydrocarbon volatile oil(s) and monoalcohol, in particular a mixture of water, C9-C14 alkanes and ethanol.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of active polyester material varies from 1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 30% and even more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyester is a reaction product of polyglycerol-3, C36 hydrogenated dimeric acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester varies from 0.5 to 5.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile oil is selected from hydrocarbon non-volatile oils and more preferably from fatty acid triglycerides containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

19. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising A) at least one volatile solvent as defined in the claims; and B) at least one oily solution comprising: a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacting being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) at least one non-volatile oil Hi; c) optionally at least one non-volatile oil H2, identical or different from oil Hi; d) at least one colouring substance; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.

0.

20. Composition according to claim 19, wherein oil Hi and oil H2 are identical and denote a fatty acid triglyceride containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

21. Composition according to claim 19 or 20, wherein the polyester oil solution contains polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

22. Composition according to any one of claims 19 to 21, wherein the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising an oily solution comprising a) a polyester obtained by reaction of (i) a polyglycerol-3, and (ii) a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) isostearic acid; the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, of 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and of 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having the INCI name: DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (AND) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE.

24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the coloring matter is selected from powdered coloring materials, fat-soluble colorings, water-soluble colorings, and mixtures thereof.

25. Composition according to claim 24, wherein the powdered colouring materials are selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, mother-of-pearls and mixtures thereof.

26. Composition according to claim 25, wherein the powdered colouring material is selected from metal oxides, more particularly from titanium dioxides, iron oxides, coated or uncoated, and mixtures thereof.

27. ​​Composition according to any one of claims 24 to 26, wherein the powdered colouring material(s) is / are present in a content of 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 25% by weight, more particularly 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additive selected from: - active ingredients such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; - UV filters; - fillers; - waxes; - film-forming agents; - hydrophilic gelling agents; - lipophilic gelling agents; - perfumes; - preservatives; - and mixtures thereof.

29. A method for coating keratinous materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratinous materials such as skin, lips, eyelashes and eyebrows, characterized in that it includes at least the application to keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.