anhydrous makeup composition of keratinous materials

Abstract

Anhydrous makeup composition for keratinous materials The present invention relates to an anhydrous makeup composition for keratinous materials comprising 1) a polyester-containing mixture containing a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components: i) at least one polyglycerol-3; and ii) at least one dimer acid; and iii) at least one C8-C30 monofatty acid, wherein components i)-iii) have reacted in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mole of fatty acids; and (b) at least one non-volatile non-silicone oil H1; 2) at least one wax; 3) at least one colorant selected from titanium dioxides, iron oxides, organic pigments and colorants soluble in the medium of the composition; and optionally 4) at least one non-volatile non-silicone oil H2, identical to or different from oil H1. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: anhydrous makeup composition for keratinous materials Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for making up keratinous materials such as the skin and the lips, in particular the lips. The present invention also relates to a process for making up keratinous materials such as the skin and the lips, in particular the lips. CONTEXT

[0002] Skin and / or lip makeup compositions are produced to meet the need for long-lasting / non-transfer performance.

[0003] Generally, when women use makeup products, especially lip products such as lipsticks or lip glosses, they hope that the color of this product does not transfer easily after application and that it results in a good feeling, for example, a non-sticky and non-dry feeling.

[0004] For lip makeup products, especially lipsticks or lip liquids containing large amounts of pigments, usually their staying power / non-transfer performance is not satisfied by consumers if the film-forming property polymer is not included in the formula. Normally, the most effective and commonly used film formers are silicone-based polymers which require the large amount of silicone oil(s) to disperse. However, if the oil phase is non-silicone or contains a very small amount of silicone oil(s), there are very few non-silicone film formers available which can effectively enhance the staying power / non-transfer performance and also have good compatibility with the oil phase.

[0005] There therefore remains a need to obtain makeup products for keratinous materials such as skin and lips which offer a deposit having good resistance to color transfer and good film-forming properties. Summary of the invention

[0006] The object of the present invention is therefore to provide makeup products for keratinous materials such as skin and lips which provide a deposit having good resistance to color transfer and good film-forming properties.

[0007] Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for making up keratinous materials such as the skin and the lips, in particular the lips.

[0008] Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention provides a solid anhydrous composition for making up keratinous materials comprising:

[0009] 1) a mixture containing polyester containing

[0010] a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components:

[0011] i) at least one polyglycerol-3; and

[0012] ii) at least one dimer acid; and

[0013] iii) at least one Cx Cî(b) fatty monoacid

[0014] wherein the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mole of fatty acids; and

[0015] (b) at least one non-volatile oil, preferably a non-volatile non-silicone oil H1 ;

[0016] 2) at least one wax;

[0017] 3) at least one colorant chosen from titanium dioxides, iron oxides, organic pigments and dyes soluble in the medium of the composition; and optionally

[0018] 4) at least one non-volatile non-silicone oil H2, identical to or different from Hl oil.

[0019] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention is particularly useful for a lip product.

[0020] According to another aspect, the present invention provides a process for making up keratinous materials such as the skin and the lips, in particular the lips, comprising the application of the anhydrous composition as described herein to the keratinous materials. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0021] Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising a" should, unless otherwise stated, be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one". Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0022] Throughout the specification, including the claims, an embodiment defined with "comprising" or the like is to be understood as encompassing a preferred embodiment defined with "consisting essentially of" and a preferred embodiment defined with "consisting of".

[0023] Apart from the working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of components and / or reaction conditions should be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about", with a meaning conventionally known in the art, for example, to within 10% of the number indicated (e.g. "about 10%" means 9% - 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% - 2.2%).

[0024] Throughout the description, including the claims, the “material ké- "ratineuse" according to the present invention is preferably the skin, preferably the lips.

[0025] In the application, unless otherwise stated, contents, parts and percentages are expressed on a weight basis.

[0026] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

[0027] The composition according to the present invention is in anhydrous form, meaning the absence of water, or the presence of water in an amount such that persons skilled in the art can determine it to be free or substantially free of water. For example, a composition in anhydrous form according to the present invention may comprise 3% by weight or less, preferably 1% by weight or less of water, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, a composition in anhydrous form according to the present invention does not comprise a detectable amount of water, "detectable amount" meaning that an amount can be detected by a device conventionally used in the art for measuring water content. Component 1), mixture containing polyester

[0028] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture containing polyester as component 1). The polyester-containing mixture comprises a polyester and at least one non-volatile oil. Component a), Polyester

[0029] The polyester of the invention is the reaction product of the following components:

[0030] i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0031] ii) at least one dimer acid; and

[0032] iii) at least one C8_C3o fatty acid monoacid,

[0033] wherein the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of poly-glycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mole of fatty acids.

[0034] Therefore, the polyester of the invention may be referred to as a "glycerin-based polyester".

[0035] The term "polyglycerol-3" for the present invention means triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol, and triglycerol preferably predominates in said mixture.

[0036] They are described as to their synthesis in patent applications US202110259945, US202110259946 and US202110259930.

[0037] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product.

[0038] By "substantially non-sequential reaction product" is meant the product which is produced by substantially non-sequential reaction of reaction components i)-iii).

[0039] By "substantially non-sequential reaction of reaction components i)-iii)" is meant the total content of each of the reactants i)-iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0040] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the total content of each of the reactants i)-iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction, i.e., the reaction is completely non-sequential and the polymer is a completely non-sequential reaction product of the components i)-iii). In other embodiments, at least 70-100 wt%, or 75-100 wt%, or 80-100 wt%, or 85-100 wt%, or 90-100 wt%, or 95-100 wt%, or 97-100 wt% of each of the reactants i)-iii) is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0041] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process that involves introducing all of the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully random addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to the polyglycerol. Component i), Polyglycerol-3

[0042] For the present invention, polyglycerol-3 denotes triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol, and triglycerol preferably predominates in said mixture. Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3 -OH in which Gly is the residue of a glycerol molecule.

[0043] A polyglycerol-3 according to the invention in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols comprising triglycerol may contain polyglycerols which may be any oligocondensation product of glycerol and having the formula (I):

[0044] H[-O-Gly-]n-OH (I)

[0045] wherein each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is on average from 2 to 10.

[0046] Generally, most Gly groups will be of the formula: -CH2-CHOH-CH2-, although residues including etherification in secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are considered to fall within the scope of "Gly" and, therefore, may also be present. Examples of oligoglycerols include diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol and mixtures thereof. Particularly useful polyglycerols are those of formula (I) wherein n is in particular between 2 and 7, more particularly between 2 and 5 and especially 2, 3 or 4, or mixtures of oligoglycerols in these ranges.

[0047] Particularly suitable examples of polyglycerol-3 include a mixture of oligoglycerols having the following oligomer distribution, where all weight percentages are based on total polyglycerol content.

[0048] - Glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight, preferably 0 to 20% by weight, more preferably initially 0 to 15% by weight;

[0049] - Diglycerol: 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, more preferably initially 20 to 32% by weight;

[0050] - Triglycerol: 10 to 65% by weight, preferably 15 to 60% by weight, more preferably initially 18 to 55% by weight;

[0051] - Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, more preferably initially 8 to 20% by weight;

[0052] - Pentaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, more preferably initially 0 to 5% by weight;

[0053] - Hexaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, more preferably initially 0 to 5% by weight;

[0054] - Heptaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, more preferably initially 0 to 3% by weight;

[0055] - Octaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, more preferably initially 0 to 3% by weight;

[0056] - Nonaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, more preferably initially 0 to 2% by weight;

[0057] - Decaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, more preferably initially from 0 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0058] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprises the following oligomer distribution:

[0059] Glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight

[0060] Diglycerol: 15 to 40% by weight

[0061] Triglycerol: 10 to 55% by weight

[0062] Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight

[0063] Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0064] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in blend form comprises at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, based on a total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in blend form, of a combination of glycerol and triglycerol.

[0065] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in blend form comprises at least 20 wt%, or at least 25 wt% diglycerol; at least 15 wt%, or at least 18 wt% triglycerol; at least 10 wt%, or at least 12 wt% tetraglycerol; wherein all weight percentages are based on a total polyglycerol-3 content in blend form.

[0066] A particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 comprises at least 25% by weight of di-glycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol, and at least 10% by weight of tetra-glycerol, based on a total content of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0067] An analysis of any such polyglycerol-3 in the form of a polyglycerol mixture according to the invention may be carried out to determine its median, average or "on average" polyglycerol index. Examples of oligoglycerols above with narrow and broad distributions may also be referred to as "polyglycerol-3", as this is the closest integer to the average and / or median. Component ii), dimer acid

[0068] The dimer acid useful for the polyester may be any dicarboxylic acid having at least 4 carbon atoms. It may be straight or branched chains, such as, for example, dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid, and their anhydrides.

[0069] Dimeric fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, these are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids which are obtained by a catalyzed dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0070] For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, refer to the publication "The Dimer Acids: The Chemical and physical properties, reactions and applications", Ed. EC Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0071] The dicarboxylic acids may also contain, to a lesser extent, trifunctional and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture should not exceed an average value of 2.4 molar.

[0072] Preferred are dimer acids typically derived from triglycerides rich in C[8] ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce C[8] unsaturated mono-fatty acids. The starting materials can be derived from tall oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources such as flaxseed, soybean, pumpkin and walnut can be used. The target mono-fatty acids used in the reaction are rich in the oleic and linoleic acid forms described in the fatty acid list contained below. The dimerization primarily results in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, however trimers are also formed. After reaction, the product can be stored as a reaction product mixture or can be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions.In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) of dimer acid (diacid in . C36) but also produces C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).

[0073] In one case, Croda's commercially available standard dimer acid, Pripol 1025®, which contains 72% by weight dimer and 19% by weight trimer acid, is used.

[0074] In another case, Oleon's standard hydrogenated dimer acid, Radiacid 0960, is used, which contains 87% by weight of dimer and 10% by weight of trimer acid. In both cases, the polymer described is characterized by a higher molecular weight, a more hydrophobic character and a higher viscosity than that which can be provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of trimer acid further enhances the molecular weight and performance of these polymers.

[0075] In one embodiment, the polyester of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0076] In another embodiment, the polyester is prepared from a hydrogenated dimer acid comprising hydrogenated dimerized C18 fatty acids, which hydrogenated dimer acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated C18 fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.

[0077] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a trimer acid content ranging from about 5 to 25% by weight, based on a total weight of hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0078] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight, but not more than 95% by weight, or more preferably not more than 90% by weight, or more preferably not more than 85% by weight) of hydrogenated dimer acid (C36 diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight). Component iii), C8-C30 mono fatty acids

[0079] C8-C30 monofatty acids useful for polyester may include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oils, etc., but they contain both lower and higher MW chains. Useful monofatty acids may be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated, and aromatic materials with acidity provided by carboxylic acid moieties.

[0080] Useful acids include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (Ci0), undecylic acid (Cn), lauric acid (Ci2), tridecylic acid (C i3), myristic acid (Ci4), pentadecylic acid (Ci5), palmitic acid (Ci6), margaric acid (Ci7), stearic acid (C[8), isostearic acid (C[8), no-nadecylic acid (Ci9), archaic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and li- gnoceric (C24).

[0081] A comparison between stearic acid and isostearic acid shows that the branching leads to a high melting point and results in a low viscosity at room temperature for isostearic acid, compared to a solid material for stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful in handling raw materials and also allows esters made with this acid to retain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids often contain a single methyl branch along the linear carbon chain and are produced in nature by microbial action. Isotearic acid is available as a reaction by-product in the creation of dimer acid described above.

[0082] Another way to obtain a liquid product is to use unsaturated linear and branched monofatty acids. These unsaturated acids may include palmitoyl acid (C16:1), vaccenic acid (C18:1), oleic acid (C18:1), elaidic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), linoleic acid (C18:2), a-linolenic acid (C18:3), linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paullinic acid (C20:1), gondoic acid (C20:1), dihomo-linolenic acid (C20:3), Mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:1), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), cervonic acid (C22:6), and nervonic acid (C24:1). As those skilled in the art know, the designation means that the length of the carbon chain corresponds to X carbon atoms; and that there are Y number of double bonds in the chain.

[0083] In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.

[0084] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components:

[0085] i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol, and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to a total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;

[0086] ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5-25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case based on a total weight of hydrogenated acid; and

[0087] iii) isostearic acid.

[0088] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process that involves introducing all of the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully random addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to the polyglycerol.

[0089] In one embodiment, it is preferable to have a total degree of esterification available polyglycerol hydroxyl moieties (total esterification) of 24% to 74% and a degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl moieties by dimer acid alone (esterification with dimer acid) of 20% to 40%. More importantly, the degree of esterification by the capping units (esterification with monoacid) is also fixed in this disclosure and it is important to keep the esterification with monoacid of 4% to 40%.

[0090] It is preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57%, including esterification with a dimer acid of 20% to 30% and esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0091] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 33% to 48%, including esterification with a dimer acid of 20% to 28% and esterification with a monoacid between 13% and 20%.

[0092] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 24% to 74%, including esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of 20% to 40% and esterification with a monoacid between 4% and 40%.

[0093] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57%, including esterification with hydrogenated dimer acid of 20% to 30% and esterification with monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0094] It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of about 40%, including esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 20% and esterification with a monoacid of about 20%.

[0095] It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of about 40%, including esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 27% and esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0096] In one embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of fatty acid.

[0097] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 moles of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 moles of isostearic acid.

[0098] .

[0099] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0100] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0101] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a ratio molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mol of isostearic acid.

[0102] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0103] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mole of C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.67 mole of isostearic acid.

[0104] In another preferred embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0105] By adjusting the molar ratio of fatty acid capping molecules and balancing the amount of polyglycerol and dimer acid, it is also possible to control the degree of dimer-polyglycerol acid extension and capping so that crosslinking, for example via the trimer acid, leads to much higher viscosities.

[0106] The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be > 50,000 cPs and less than 5,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0107] In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is >75,000 mPa.s and <2,500,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0108] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is >100,000 mPa.s and <2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0109] In a more preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is >1,000,000 mPa.s and <2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0110] Viscosity is measured using an Anton Paar Inc. MCR3O2 Rheometer® rheometer. Twin rough or smooth 50 mm diameter flat plates were used, covered with a polymer sample, adjusted to a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and both temperature and shear rate scans were performed. The polyesters of the invention display Newtonian behavior and therefore have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. In addition, the polyesters of this disclosure demonstrate a reduced viscosity with temperature. Thus, viscosity measurements are reported at a precisely controlled temperature and typically at a shear rate of 1. Values ​​are reported in units of mPa.s

[0111] The polyesters of the invention are characterized by average molecular weights > 2500 Da and < 1,000,000 Da measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0112] The GPC column used for these tests consists of: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous phase of tetrahydrofuran (THF) being used and injected at 0.35 mL / min, with the column oven held at 40 °C; a 50 μL injection and Wyatt refractive index detector Ri. The standards used are strictly linear polystyrene designed to be monodisperse. The narrow range polystyrene GPC calibration standards are prepared in mobile phase and have peak molecular weights of 1,290,000 Da; 560,000 Da; 65,500 Da; 28,500 Da; 10,100 Da; 1,680 Da; 580 Da and 208 Da. From standard methodologies, the weight average molecular weight and number average molecular weight are automatically calculated by the standard GPC software.

[0113] In a preferred embodiment, the disclosed polyesters have an average molecular weight of >4000 Da and <250,000 Da measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In a more preferred embodiment, the disclosed polymers have an average molecular weight of >5000 Da and <150,000 Da measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0114] In another embodiment, the polyester of the invention has a combination of an average molecular weight of >5000 Da and <150,000 Da measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards and a viscosity at 25°C of >100,000 rnPa.s and <2,000,000 rnPa.s.

[0115] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components:

[0116] i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol, and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to a total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;

[0117] ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5-25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case based on a total weight of hydrogenated acid; and

[0118] iii) isostearic acid;

[0119] wherein the polyester has a combination of an average molecular weight > 5000 Da and < 15,000 Da measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards and a viscosity > 100,000 rnPa.s and < 2,000,000 rnPa.s at 25°C; and wherein the polyester is also characterized by a total esterification of about 40%, including esterification with hydrogenated dimer acid of about 27%, and esterification with monoacid of about 13%.

[0120] In practice, since the raw ingredients contain a range of polyglycerol-3 units and a range of dimeric and trimer acid contents, the above numbers can be adjusted using the actual (not theoretical) hydroxyl moieties and carboxylic acid moieties, as determined by standard methods. such as mass spectrometry, NMR and liquid chromatography. The above esterification ranges are based on the idealized structure of polyglycerol-3 and C36-dimer acid. Actual ranges may therefore vary slightly from the values ​​given above and can be calculated based on these analytical analyses.

[0121] It is more convenient to define the extent of polymerization by the final acid number. The initial acid numbers, in light of the distribution of polyglycerol, monoacid and polyacid moieties present, can be reliably calculated using the actual acid number determined by the raw ingredient used.

[0122] For example, the initial acid number ("IA", which is commonly defined as mg KOH / g total reactant) is 135 IA. This includes 68 IA for the dimer acid and 67 IA for the isostearic acid of a preferred embodiment containing 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of C36 hydrogenated dimer acid, and 1 mole of isostearic acid. All of the preferred ratio embodiments described above have a corresponding initial IA that can be calculated. When, during the polymerization reaction, the IA units are reduced, this ratio gives the percent conversion of the reaction from total initial reactant acid moieties to final residual acid moieties. Thus, the reaction completion is equal to 1 minus the ratio of final 1TA to initial 1TA.

[0123] In one embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of 0.1 to <25 mg KOH / g polymer.

[0124] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of 0.1 to <10 mg KOH / g polymer.

[0125] In a more preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of 0.1 to < 5 mg KOH / g polymer.

[0126] Expressing the reaction completion as (1 - final AV) / initial AV, the reaction completion of these reactor mixtures to the final polymer is >80%.

[0127] In a preferred embodiment, the reaction completion of these reactor mixtures to the final polymer is > 90%.

[0128] In a more preferred embodiment, the reaction completion of these reactor mixtures to the final polymer is > 95%.

[0129] In a more preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is the reaction product of a polyglycerol-3, a C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1, as disclosed in Example 10 of US 2021 / 0259945. Component b), non-volatile oil

[0130] Non-volatile oils are useful as component b) to form the polyester-containing blend with the polyester of component a). Polyester solution with non-volatile oil

[0131] According to a particular preferred embodiment of the invention, the mixture containing polyester may be in the form of an oily solution containing the polyester as component a) and b) at least one non-volatile oil.

[0132] This type of solution of oil(s) and polyester is described in patent applications US202110259945, US202110259946 and US202110259930. Non-volatile oils

[0133] The oil which is present in the mixture of the invention can be chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and their mixtures.

[0134] The term "oil" refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 105 Pa).

[0135] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” designates an oil comprising at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0136] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. In other words, the hydrocarbon oil is preferably a non-silicone oil.

[0137] The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil which remains on the skin or on the keratinous fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which in particular has a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, as a function of the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0138] According to the invention, for the purpose of use as component b), a non-volatile non-silicone oil is preferred. As examples of non-volatile non-silicone oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of:

[0139] - vegetable oils, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phy- oleate tostearyl, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / oc-tyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), diesters such as diisopropyl sebecate, triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36 and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, almond oil sweet, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, linseed oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, lily of the valley oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, winter squash oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, rosehip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®,812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; ,

[0140] - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, C13-C16 isoparaffins, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, or squalane;

[0141] - synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as di- caprylyl ether;

[0142] - synthetic esters, for example esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids- C4-C22 carboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or penta-hydroxyalcohols, examples of which include diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; di-sostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate;neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; ethylene glycol distearate; diethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol distearate;

[0143] - copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer,

[0144] - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, containing a chain branched and / or unsaturated carbon containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol;

[0145] - higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or li- nolenic;

[0146] - carbonates, such as dicapryl carbonate;

[0147] - acetates;

[0148] - citrates;

[0149] - fluorinated oils optionally partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone, for example fluorinated silicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones as described in EP-A-847 752;

[0150] - polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone) (all radicals RI to R6 and X represent methyl), in particular with a viscosity of 50 to 500 cSt, in particular 350 cSt, such as the commercial products sold under the names Belsil DM 350® from the Wacker company, and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid® 350 CS from the Dow Corning company, and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone) with a viscosity of 50 to 150 cSt, in particular 100 cSt, such as the commercial products sold under the names Belsil DM 100® from the Wacker company, and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 100 CS® from the Dow Corning company.

[0151] - phenyl silicones, for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phe- nyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl-trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethyl-siloxysilicates; and

[0152] - their mixtures.

[0153] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil will be selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and more preferably from fatty acid triglycerides containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, for example caprylic / capric acid triglycerides.

[0154] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polydecenes, squalene, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or penta-hydroxy alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0155] The oily polyester solution of the invention can be obtained by mixing the polyester with the organic at about 80-100°C. The combination is then cooled to 50-70°C to be removed from the reactor and put into storage.

[0156] The oily polyester solution of the invention preferably contains the polyester in a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0157] According to one embodiment of the invention, a non-volatile non-silicone oil described herein may be used as oil H1, i.e., component b), to form the polyester-containing mixture of component 1) with the polyester of component a), for example, by forming an oil solution described herein. Furthermore, a non-volatile non-silicone oil described herein may be used as oil H2, i.e., component 4), the same as or different from oil H1, to formulate the anhydrous composition with components 1), 2) and 3).

[0158] According to a particular preferred embodiment, the anhydrous composition of the invention contains an oily solution containing:

[0159] a) a polyester obtained by the reaction

[0160] i) at least one polyglycerol-3, and

[0161] ii) a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and

[0162] iii) isostearic acid; wherein the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mole of fatty acids; and

[0163] b) a caprylic / capric triglyceride having the INCI name: DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (ET) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE.

[0164] This oily solution is marketed under the name SOLAMAZE NATURAL® by the company NOURYON comprising 60% by weight of polyester active material.

[0165] The mixture of polyester-containing components 1) may be present in the anhydrous composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the total anhydrous composition. Component 2), wax(es)

[0166] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises a wax as component 2).

[0167] The wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 40°C, which can go up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

[0168] The waxes used in the present invention include waxes of animal origin, waxes of vegetable origin, waxes of mineral origin, synthetic waxes and various fractions of waxes of natural origin.

[0169] Animal waxes include, but are not limited to, beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax, lanolin derivatives, and Chinese insect waxes. Vegetable waxes include, but are not limited to, rice wax, camauba wax, wax candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, cocoa butter, Japan wax, and sumac wax. Mineral waxes include, but are not limited to, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, petroleum jelly, and ceresin. Synthetic waxes include, but are not limited to, polyethylene homopolymer and copolymer waxes, synthetic beeswax, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, and silicon waxes.

[0170] Despite the origin, useful waxes may be hydrocarbon waxes, for example beeswax, lanolin or Chinese insect wax; rice wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japanese wax and sumach wax, Helichane annuus (sunflower) seed wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0171] Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, with linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, as well as fatty esters and glycerides, are also used.

[0172] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the wax(es) used in the present invention may be chosen from polyethylene, synthetic wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, or mixtures thereof.

[0173] The wax(es) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition. Component 3), colorant(s)

[0174] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “colorant” designates a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0175] The dye considered in the context of the present invention may be chosen from water-soluble or water-insoluble, liposoluble (in particular a dye soluble in the medium of the composition) or non-liposoluble, organic or inorganic dyes, and materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof. Water-soluble dyes

[0176] Dyes useful according to the present invention may include water-soluble dyes.

[0177] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “water-soluble dye” means any natural or synthetic compound, generally organic, which is soluble in a aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting a color. In particular, the term "water-soluble" is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to dissolve in water, measured at 25 °C, at a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g / l (production of a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, colored or colorless solution). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / L.

[0178] As water-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for example FD&C Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090).

[0179] As non-limiting illustrations of sources of water-soluble colorant(s) which may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of those of natural origin, such as extracts of cochineal carmine, beetroot, grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin.

[0180] Thus, water-soluble colorants suitable for use in the present invention are in particular carminic acid, betanin, anthocyanins, enocyanins, lycopene, [3-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsorubin, flavoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, rhodoxanthin, cantaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

[0181] It may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, tartrazine disodium salt and fuchsin disodium salt.

[0182] Some of these water-soluble dyes are particularly approved for food use. Representatives of these dyes that may be mentioned more particularly include dyes from the carotenoid family, referenced under food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141. Pigments

[0183] Dyes useful according to the present invention may comprise pigments, including inorganic pigments and organic pigments.

[0184] The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are insoluble in a liquid organic phase, and which are intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit produced with the composition.

[0185] The pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0186] The pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lakes and optical effect pigments, for example goniochromatic pigments and nacres.

[0187] The mineral pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, chromium hydrate, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum and copper powders, and mixtures thereof.

[0188] Organic lakes are organic pigments formed from a dye fixed to a substrate.

[0189] Lakes, also called organic pigments, can be chosen from the materials below and their mixtures:

[0190] - cochineal carmine;

[0191] - organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, in- digoids, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dye or fluoran dyes.

[0192] Among the organic pigments which may in particular be mentioned are those known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6;

[0193] - organic lakes can be insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium or titanium acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes, these dyes optionally comprising at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.

[0194] Organic lacquers may also be supported on an organic carrier such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example.

[0195] Among the organic lakes, mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D&C Red No. 2 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 3 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 4 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 6 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Potassium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 8 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 19 Sodium Lake, Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 21 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 21 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 22 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 28 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 30 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 31 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 33 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 34 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 36 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake, D&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake, D&C Green No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No. 1 Aluminum Lake4, D&C Orange No. 5 aluminum lake, D&C Orange No. 5 aluminum lake, D&C Orange No. 10 zirconium lake, D&C Orange No. 17 aluminum lake, barium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5, D&C Yellow No. 5 aluminum lake, D&C Yellow No. 6 zirconium lake, zirconium lake D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 10 Aluminum Lacquer, FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lacquer, FD&C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lacquer, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lacquer, FD&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lacquer or FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lacquer.

[0196] The pigments may also have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.

[0197] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as me- thicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising per-fluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups and amino acids; N-acylamino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate and mixtures thereof.

[0198] The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

[0199] The term “alkyl” mentioned in the compounds cited above designates in particular an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0200] The hydrophobically treated pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-1 086 683. Fat-soluble dyes

[0201] Fat-soluble dyes, such as one soluble in the medium of the composition, may be useful. Examples may be Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and Quinoline Yellow. Mother-of-pearl

[0202] For the purposes of this patent application, the term “mother-of-pearl” means colored particles of any shape, which may or may not be iridescent, produced in particular by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a color effect by optical interference.

[0203] Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as iron oxide coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride coated titanium mica, chromium oxide coated titanium mica, organic dye coated titanium mica in particular of the aforementioned type, as well as bismuth oxychloride based nacreous pigments.

[0204] It may also be mica particles, the surface of which is superimposed on at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants.

[0205] The mother-of-pearls may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, golden and / or coppery color or tint.

[0206] As an illustration of nacres which can be introduced as interference pigments in the first composition, mention may in particular be made of the golden-colored nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and by the company Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite);copper-colored mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica), red-colored mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red mother-of-pearl with a golden tint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a golden tint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver tint sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and golden-green-pink-orange mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

[0207] According to a preferred embodiment, the colorant used in the present invention is chosen from metal oxide pigments, organic lakes, water-soluble synthetic or natural dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0208] According to a preferred embodiment, the colorant used in the present invention is chosen from titanium dioxides, iron oxides, organic pigments and colorants soluble in the medium of the composition.

[0209] According to an exemplary embodiment, the colorant(s) used in the present invention is / are chosen from titanium dioxide, Yellow 6 lake, Red 7 lake, Blue 1 lake or mixtures thereof.

[0210] The colorant may be present in an amount of 3% to 20% by weight, preferably 5% to 16% by weight, more preferably 6% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives

[0211] In a particular embodiment, an anhydrous composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additive usually used in the field under consideration. The additive is in particular chosen from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, dispersants, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protective agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0212] It is routine for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the present invention so that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the intended addition. Method and use

[0213] The composition according to the present invention can generally be prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art. Nevertheless, it should be understood that the person skilled in the art may choose the preparation process, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, for example their solubility in the vehicle, and the intended application for the compositions or the composition.

[0214] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can be used to treat keratinous materials, in particular the lips. This use can be manifested as a process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, in particular the lip, comprising the step of applying the composition of the invention to said keratinous materials.

[0215] The invention will be illustrated in more detail by the following examples, which set out particularly advantageous embodiments.

[0216] Although the numerical ranges and parameters that define the broad scope of the present invention are approximations, the numerical values ​​set forth in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, any numerical value inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without, however, limiting its scope. EXAMPLES

[0217] The quantities / concentrations of the ingredients in the compositions / formulas described below have been expressed in % by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition / formula.

[0218] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are indicated below. The materials not specified here were each commercially available.

[0219] [Tableaux 1] Nom INCI Nom commercial Fournisseur SQUALANE NEOSSANCE® SQUALANE AMYRIS PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAL SOSTEARATE JOLEE7181 OLEON POLYBUTENE INDOPOL® H 100 INEOS CANOLA OIL LIPEX® PREACT™ AARHUSKARL SHAMN CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE MASESTER E7000 LR01-1 / MB PT MUSIM MAS POLYETHYLENE PERFORMALENE™ 500-L POLY ETHYLENE NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIE S PARAFFIN (et) MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (et) SYNTHETIC WAX PARACERA® 30540 PARAMELT HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX SUNFLOWER WAX DOUBLE REFINED KOSTER RED 7 UNIPURE® RED LC 3079 OR SENSIENT YELLOW 6 LAKE SUNCROMA™ FD&C YELLOW 6 AL LAKE C70-5270 SUN RED 28 LAKE SUNCROMA™ D&C RED 28 AL LAKE C14-6623 SUN Nom INCI Nom commercial Fournisseur DIISOSTEAROYL POLY-GLYCERYL-3 DIMER DL LINOLEATE (et) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE SOLAMAZE™ NATURAL AKZO NOBEL (NOURYON) C30-45 ALKYLDIMETHYLSILYL POLYPROPYLSILSESQUIOXANE DOW CORNING® SW- 8005 C30 RESIN WAX DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL) VP / HEXADECENE COPOLYMER ANTARON™ V 216 polymer OR GANEX V 216 ISP (ASHLAND) ALLYL STEARATE / VA COPOLYMER MEXOMERE PQ NOVEAL HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER CRODABOND™ CSA-LQ-(JP) CRODA DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER VISCOPLAST 14436 H BIOSYNTHIS VP / EICOSENE COPOLYMER ANTARON™ V 220F polymer OR GANEX™ V 220F ISP (ASHLAND) HYDROGENATED STYRENE / METHYLSTYRENE / INDENE COPOLYMER REGALITE™ RI 100 CG HYDROCARBON RESIN EASTMAN CHEMICAL

[0220] Preparation protocol

[0221] The lipsticks were prepared by following the following steps:

[0222] 1). grinding of pigments (Red 7, Red 28 Lake and / or Yellow 6 Lake) with the oil at using a three-roller crusher;

[0223] 2). weighing and adding the fatty phase (oils, waxes, surfactants, pastes and / or polymers) in a main container and heating the container to approximately 95°C with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained;

[0224] 3). addition of glycerin into the main container and homogenization of the mass at a high stirring speed of 1500 rpm;

[0225] 4). addition of the pigment paste prepared in step 1);

[0226] 5). once the mass was uniform, carrying out a molding, a cooling dislocation and a lipstick pickup. Example A

[0227] For different purposes, Ex.l-Ex.2 according to the present invention, as well as comparative EC.1-EC.8

[0228] [Tables2] Composants EC. 1 Ex.l Ex.2 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 EC. 5 EC. 6 EC. 7 EC. 8 SQUALANE Qs pour 100 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 POLYBUTENE 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 POLYETHYLENE 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 PARAFFIN (et) MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (et) SYNTHETIC WAX 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 DIISOSTEAROYL PO- LYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (et) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 4 10 RED 7 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 YELLOW 6 LAKE 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 RED 28 LAKE 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 C30-45 ALKYLDIME-THYLSILYL POLYPRO- PYLSILSESQUIOXANE - - - 4 - - - - - - VP / HEXADECENE COPOLYMER - - - - 4 - - - - - ALLYL STEARATE / VA COPOLYMER - - - - - 4 - - - - HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER - - - - - - 4 - - - DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER - - - - - - - 4 - - VP / EICOSENE COPOLYMER - 4 - HYDROGENATED STYRENE / METHYLSTY RENE / INDENE COPOLYMER - - - - - - - - - 4 Exemple B

[0229] The compositions of Example A were evaluated for hold / non-transfer performance according to the following steps:

[0230] application of the composition 3 times on the forearm;

[0231] 45 min stay;

[0232] use of a tissue to cover the application area and pressing with a constant force for 10 s;

[0233] assigning a score of 1-5 points according to the color intensity printed on the fabric: the lower the score, the lower the color intensity on the fabric, and the better the non-transfer performance; and

[0234] averaging of the scores of the evaluations carried out by at least 3 experienced scientists.

[0235] The scores were provided in Table 3 below:

[0236] [Tables3] Formulas Transfer test score EC.l 5 Ex. 1 2.8 Ex. 2 1 EC.2 4 EC.3 4.8 EC. 4 4.5 EC.5 4 EC.6 4.5 EC.7 5 EC.8 5

[0237] A portion of the compositions of Example A were further evaluated and scored for hold / non-transfer performance by a consumer panel according to the following steps:

[0238] selection of 12 women aged 18-40;

[0239] asks the 12 users to try one composition on the lips per day; and

[0240] collection of their feedback after having tested all the compositions provided.

[0241] The scores were provided in Table 4 below:

[0242] [Tables4] Number of consumers Comments on holding performance (">" means "better than", "=" means "close to") 7 Ex.2 > Ex. 1 > EC. 1 3 Ex.2 = Ex.l > EC.l Example C

[0243] At the end of Ex.1, additional Ex.3 and Ex.4 were prepared as follows:

[0244] [Tables5] Components Ex. 1 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAL SOSTEARATE 10 20 10 POLYBUTENE 4 - 4 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE - 5 - POLYETHYLENE 10 10 7 PARAFFIN (and) MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (and) SYNTHETIC WAX 1 1 0 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX - - 2 EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX - - 2 DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 4 4 4 RED 7 3 3 3 YELLOW 6 LAKE 5 5 5 RED 28 LAKE 2 2 2 SQUALANE Qs for 100 10 Qs for 100 CANOLA OIL - Qs per 100 -

[0245] The compositions of Ex. 1 to Ex. 4 were evaluated for hold / non-transfer performance according to Example B. The results for each of Ex. 1 to Ex. 4 were summaries below:

[0246] [Tableauxô] Formulas Transfer Test Score Ex. 1 2.8 Ex. 2 1 Ex. 3 1.5 Ex. 4 1

[0247] It will be seen that by using the composition of the invention, in particular the appropriate amount of DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, desirable non-transfer performance has been achieved.

Claims

Claims

1. An anhydrous composition for making up keratinous materials comprising: 1) a polyester-containing mixture containing a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components: i) at least one polyglycerol-3; and ii) at least one dimer acid; and iii) at least one C8_C3o monofatty acid, wherein components i)-iii) have reacted in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mole of fatty acids; and b) at least one non-volatile non-silicone oil H1; the polyester-containing mixture 1) being present in the anhydrous composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the total anhydrous composition, 2) at least one wax; 3) at least one colorant chosen from titanium dioxides, iron oxides, organic pigments and colorants soluble in the medium of the composition;and optionally 4) at least one non-volatile non-silicone oil H2, identical to or different from oil H1.;

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyglycerol-3 is triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol.

3. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols comprising triglycerol contains polyglycerols which are an oligocondensation product of glycerol and having the formula (I): H[-O-Gly-]n-OH (I) wherein each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is on average from 2 to 10.

4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the dimer acid is a hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 75% by weight, but not more than 95% by weight, or more preferably not more than 90% by weight, or more preferably not more than 85% by weight of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight, of hydrogenated C54 trimer acids.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the C8-C30 mono-fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (Ci0), undecylic acid (Cn), lauric acid (Ci2), tridecylic acid (Ci3), myristic acid (Ci4), pentadecylic acid (Ci5), palmitic acid (Ci6), margaric acid (Ci7), stearic acid (C[8), isostearic acid (Ci8), nonadecylic acid (Ci9), ara-chidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22), and lignoceric acid (C24).

6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the polyester is a substantially or wholly non-sequential reaction product of the following components: i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol, and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case based on a total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of mixture 1; ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5-25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case based on a total weight of hydrogenated acid; and iii) isostearic acid.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein components i)-iii) have reacted in a molar ratio of: 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of fatty acid; or 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid; or 1 mole of poly-glycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the non-volatile non-silicone oil H1 of component b) or the non-volatile non-silicone oil H2 of component 4) is each independently selected from fatty acid triglycerides containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, for example caprylic / capric acid triglycerides; polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polydecenes, polydecenes,

9.

10. squalene, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or penta-hydroxy alcohols, and mixtures thereof. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the wax is selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon waxes, for example, beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax; rice wax, camauba wax, sugarcane wax, euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, ouricury wax, esparto wax, cork fiber wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes; synthetic wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, or mixtures thereof. Method for making up keratinous materials such as the skin and the lips, in particular the lips, comprising the application of the anhydrous composition according to any one of the preceding claims to the keratinous materials.