COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE OF KERATINIC MATERIALS

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE OF KERATINIC MATERIALS The present invention relates to a composition for the care of keratinous materials, comprising (i) at least one hydroxyl-containing acid, selected from the group consisting of α-hydroxy acids, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, salicylic acid, their precursors and mixtures thereof; (ii) at least one short-chain surfactant, each oleophilic chain containing 14 carbon atoms or fewer; (iii) at least two fatty alcohols having 20 carbon atoms or more; and (iv) at least one non-fatty alcoholic surfactant other than said short-chain surfactant. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE OF KERATINIC MATERIALS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care of keratinous matter, in particular a cosmetic composition comprising one or more keratolytic agents. CONTEXT OF ART

[0002] Skin renewal can be stimulated by removing the outer keratinous layer. This removal can be performed mechanically or chemically. Chemical peels use keratolytic agents that interact with the complex structure of the skin, removing the outer layer (stratum corneum for superficial peels, epidermis and possibly dermis for medium and deep peels) to induce controlled skin damage and stimulate skin regeneration. The regenerated skin is smoother and appears younger.

[0003] The term “keratolytic agent” refers to a natural or synthetic compound which has the effect of to remove dead cells from the stratum corneum, for example by stimulating the degradation of comeodesmosin or by stimulating epidermal renewal (including by stimulating epidermal proliferation). Many current cosmetic products include such keratolytic agents to soften and remove the stratum corneum from users.

[0004] However, the keratolytic agent may cause instability in the cosmetic product containing it, in particular for the cosmetic product containing a relatively high amount of keratolytic agent. Summary of the invention

[0005] The present invention aims to develop a new cosmetic product comprising at least one keratolytic agent. The cosmetic product remains stable at room temperature or at elevated temperatures, e.g., approximately 45 °C, even when the amount of the keratolytic agent reaches approximately 5% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, without exhibiting a soapy effect.

[0006] According to the first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition for the care of keratinous materials, comprising:

[0007] - at least one hydroxylated acid,

[0008] - at least one short-chain surfactant,

[0009] - at least two fatty alcohols comprising 20 or more carbon atoms and

[0010] - at least one non-fatty alcoholic surfactant other than said chain surfactant short.

[0011] The hydroxyl-containing acid is selected from the group consisting of α-hydroxy acids, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, salicylic acid, precursors thereof, and mixtures thereof. The expression "precursors thereof" means that the hydroxyl acid can be selected from the precursors of each of the α-hydroxy acids, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, and salicylic acid.

[0012] The α-hydroxy acid is preferably a lower acid having 2 to 12 atoms of carbon, or 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0013] In one embodiment, the composition may comprise a relatively greater amount of acid containing hydroxyl, for example an amount of 5% by weight or more, or even an amount of 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] In one embodiment, short-chain surfactant means a surfactant in which each oleophilic chain contains 14 carbon atoms or less.

[0015] In one embodiment, the fatty alcohol is chosen from the saturated fatty alcohol having the formula Rl-OH, in which the RI group is a linear or branched alkyl, preferably a linear alkyl, with at least 20 carbon atoms.

[0016] Preferably, the composition comprises an amount of about 0.5% by weight or less of thickeners or gelling agents, and / or does not comprise fatty alcohols having fewer than 20 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The short-chain surfactant is preferably chosen from poly-oxyethylenated alkylglycerides; fatty acid esters of glycerol or polyglycerol, which are optionally oxyalkylenated; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers; amino acid derivatives; betaines and mixtures thereof.

[0018] The non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than said short-chain surfactant may be selected from glyceryl esters of fatty acids, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, fatty acid esters of glucose or alkylglucose, oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and glucose or alkylglucose, alkyl polyglucosides, phospholipids, quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one hydrocarbyl having 16 or more carbon atoms, amino acid derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0019] The composition may include at least one emollient, which is preferably chosen from non-polar emollients and / or polar emollients, and the emollient may be present in an amount of about 5% by weight, or even more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] Preferably, the polar emollient is chosen from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, dibutyl adipate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglyceride, isonanoate of cetearyl, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof.

[0021] Preferably, the non-polar emollient is chosen from the group consisting of C15.19 alkane, isohexadecane, isododecane, diethylhexyl cyclohexane and mixtures thereof.

[0022] In one embodiment, the composition further comprises water, and the water is present in an amount ranging from about 20% by weight to about 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] Furthermore, the present invention relates to a composition for a keratin-based skincare material, comprising a keratolytic system, a liquid crystal system and at least one emollient, wherein the keratolytic system comprises at least one hydroxyl-containing acid, at least one short-chain surfactant, or mixtures thereof, and the liquid crystal system comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms and at least one non-fatty alcohol-based surfactant other than said short-chain surfactant, the hydroxyl-containing acid, the short-chain surfactant, the fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms, the non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than said short-chain surfactant and the emollient being defined above.

[0024] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a liquid crystal system to improve the stability of a composition comprising a keratolytic system and optionally at least one emollient, the keratolytic system comprising at least one hydroxyl-containing acid and at least one short-chain surfactant, and the liquid crystal system comprising, essentially or even consisting of at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms and at least one non-fatty alcohol-based surfactant other than said short-chain surfactant.

[0025] In one embodiment, the composition comprises an amount of about 0.5% by weight or less of thickeners or gelling agents and / or does not comprise fatty alcohols having fewer than 20 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] In one embodiment, the composition may comprise a relatively greater quantity of acid containing hydroxyl, for example an amount of about 5% by weight or more, or even an amount of about 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and / or the composition may comprise a relatively greater quantity of the emollient, for example about 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples who follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0028] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular, in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0029] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (such as "consisting essentially of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "consisting essentially of," any additional composition, material, and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and innovative features is excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material, and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and innovative features may be included in the embodiment.

[0030] The term "approximately" referring to a certain value is intended to designate a range within ± 5% of the value. For example, the expression "approximately 100" designates a range of 100 ± 5, that is, the range from 95 to 105. In general, when the term "approximately" is used, it can be expected that similar results or effects, as disclosed, can be obtained within a range within ± 5% of the stated value.

[0031] As used herein, the term "keratinous material" refers to the skin, nails, or mucous membranes, and, in at least one embodiment, refers to the skin. Keratolytic system

[0032] The composition of the present invention may include a keratolytic system comprising at least one hydroxyl-containing acid, at least one short-chain surfactant, or mixtures thereof. Hydroxylated acids

[0033] Generally, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydroxylated acid.

[0034] According to the present invention, the hydroxylated acid may particularly be an α-hydroxy acid. The term "α-hydroxy acid" is understood to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxylated functional group occupying an α position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group). This acid is preferably present in the final composition as a free acid.

[0035] α-Hydroxyacids (α-hydroxyacid) include, for example, the following acids: citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use mixtures of these different acids.

[0036] According to one embodiment, the α-hydroxy acid is preferably a lower acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, or 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0037] In one embodiment, the α-hydroxyl acid is preferably a monocarboxylic acid.

[0038] Examples of acids containing hydroxyl include, but are not limited to, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, tartaric acid and salicylic acid.

[0039] In one embodiment, a precursor of a hydroxyl-containing acid may also be used for the present composition. According to the present invention, a "precursor" means a precursor capable of being converted into a hydroxyl-containing acid useful to the invention, for example, by hydrolysis. An example of such a precursor is particularly apt for gluconolactone. For the purposes of the invention, especially considering that the composition according to the present invention is aqueous, such a precursor may be considered as belonging to the concept of a "hydroxyl-containing acid."

[0040] Examples of precursors of an acid containing hydroxyl may be chosen from lactone precursors, which include, but are not limited to, erythronolactone, threolactone, ribonolactone, arabinolactone, xyloslactone, lyxoslactone, allolactone, altrolacone, gluconolactone, mannolactone, gu-lonolactone, idolactone, galactonolactone, talolactone and mixtures thereof.

[0041] In one embodiment, the keratolytic system comprises one or more α-hydroxy acid(s), for example: lactic acid; salicylic acid; one or more precursors of the hydroxyl-containing acid(s), for example gluconolactone or mixtures thereof.

[0042] According to the present invention, the acid containing a hydroxyl is present in a quantity ranging from about 0.5% by weight to about 30% by weight, from about 1% by weight to about 25% by weight, from about 2% by weight to about 20% by weight, or from about 5% by weight to about 15% by weight, e.g. about 8% by weight to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Short-chain surfactants

[0043] Traditionally, certain acids containing hydroxyl can serve as keratolytic agents, for example as mentioned above. Surprisingly, the inventor discovers that certain short-chain surfactants can also act as keratolytic agents.

[0044] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one short-chain surfactant.

[0045] According to the present invention, the term "short-chain surfactant" refers to a surfactant in which each oleophilic chain contains 14 carbon atoms or fewer. According to the present invention, the short-chain surfactant may be included in the composition as a mixture, the mixture comprising at least about 40% by weight, at least about 50% by weight, or even at least about 60% by weight of one or more said short-chain surfactant(s), for example, two or three said short-chain surfactants, based on the total weight of the mixture.

[0046] Furthermore, the short-chain surfactant is preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the short-chain surfactant is chosen from non-ionic surfactants.

[0047] Examples of anionic surfactant include, but are not limited to, amino acid derivatives such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium caproyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] Examples of amphoteric surfactants include, but are not limited to, betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, coco betaine and mixtures thereof, and amphodiacetates, for example disodium cacaomphodiaacetate.

[0049] The nonionic surfactant is preferably chosen from short-chain surfactants derived from PEG / PG. According to the present invention, the term "short-chain surfactant derived from PEG / PG" refers to the surfactant derived from polyethylene glycols and / or polyglycerols and each oleophilic chain containing 14 carbon atoms or less.

[0050] Non-limiting examples of short-chain surfactants derived from PEG / PG useful in the present invention include, for example, polyoxyethylenated alkyl glycerides; fatty acid esters of glycerol or polyglycerol, which are optionally oxyalkylenated; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers or mixtures thereof.

[0051] - polyoxyethylenated alkyl glycerides are preferably those including derivatives polyethylene glycol of a mixture of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of caprylic and capric acids (preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, better still 2 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, and even better still 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs), for example, PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides, PEG-7 caprylic / capric glycerides.

[0052] In the context of the present invention, oxyalkylated fatty acid esters of glycerol may also be mentioned, and in particular polyoxyethylated derivatives of glyceryl esters of fatty acids and their hydrogenated derivatives. These oxyalkylated glycerol esters may be selected, for example, from hydrogenated and / or oxyethylated glyceryl esters of fatty acids, such as oxyethylated glyceryl cocoates, such as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] In one embodiment, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is selected from polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, polyglyceryl monomyristate comprising 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, polyglyceryl monocaprate comprising 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, polyglyceryl monocaprylate comprising 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Examples of polyglycerol fatty acid esters may include, but are not limited to, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 myristate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, polyglyceryl-4 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, and polyglyceryl-10 cocoate.

[0055] Oxyalkylated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) are preferably those having a number of ethylene or propylene oxide (EO / PO) units ranging from 2 to 40. PEG-4 lauryl ether, PEG-9 lauryl ether and PEG-23 lauryl ether may be mentioned.

[0056] Preferably, short-chain surfactants derived from PEG / PG are selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters, for example polyglyceryl-5 laurate, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol, for example PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and polyoxyethylenated alkyl glycerides, for example PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides or mixtures thereof.

[0057] According to the present invention, the short-chain surfactant is present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% by weight to about 10% by weight, or from about 1% by weight to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Preferably, the keratolytic system comprises both hydroxyl-containing acids and short-chain surfactants derived from PEG / PG as defined above. In one embodiment, the keratolytic system comprises one or more of the following: glycolic acid, lactic acid, gluconolactone, and salicylic acid; and one or more polyglycerol fatty acid esters, for example: polyglyceryl-5 laurate, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol, for example PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and polyoxyethylenated alkyl glycerides, for example PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides.

[0059] According to the present invention, the keratolytic system is present in an amount ranging from about 0.5% by weight to about 45% by weight, preferably from about 1% by weight to about 30% by weight, or from about 2% by weight to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Liquid crystal system

[0060] The composition of the present invention preferably comprises a liquid crystal system, which includes at least two fatty alcohols and at least one main surfactant which is different from the short-chain surfactant above. Fatty alcohols

[0061] The composition of the present invention comprises at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms.

[0062] The fatty alcohol can be the saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I):

[0063] Rl-OH (I)

[0064] wherein RI is a linear or branched alkyl with at least 20 carbon atoms.

[0065] Preferably, in formula (I), the RI group is a linear or branched alkyl with 20-40 carbon atoms, preferably 20-30 carbon atoms and, even better, 20-24 carbon atoms.

[0066] As examples of saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I), arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol), montanyyl alcohol (1-octacosanol) and myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol) may be mentioned.

[0067] In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a mixture of saturated fatty alcohols of formula (I) with 20-22 carbon atoms. For example, the composition of the present invention comprises a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

[0068] One can cite, as an example of a saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I) useful in the com According to the present invention, the commercial product Nafol 1822 C from Condea is a behenyl alcohol. Nafol 1822 C is defined as a mixture of fatty alcohols containing primarily n-docosanol, a C22 alcohol. Another commercial product that can be used in the composition of the present invention is Lannet 22 from COGNIS (BASF), which contains behenyl alcohol, and Lanette 22 from BASF. Other representative mixtures of fatty alcohols are the product marketed under the name NAFOL 2298 by Condea, which contains 98% C22 alcohol, and the C20-22 alcohols under the trade name NAFOL 2022 EN from SASOL.

[0069] In one embodiment, the fatty alcohols are chosen from the saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I) where RI is a linear alkyl chain with 20-40 carbon atoms, preferably 20-30 carbon atoms and, even better, 20-24 carbon atoms.

[0070] According to the present invention, fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms are present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% by weight to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% by weight to about 8% by weight, or from about 1% by weight to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Main surfactants

[0071] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than said short-chain surfactant as the principal surfactant. The expression "non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than said short-chain surfactant" refers to a surfactant that is not a fatty alcohol and is different from the short-chain surfactant as defined above.

[0072] The non-fatty alcohol surfactant, other than said short-chain surfactant, is preferably selected from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the non-fatty alcohol surfactant, other than said short-chain surfactant, is selected from non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, or mixtures thereof.

[0073] Examples of anionic surfactants include, but are not limited to, amino acid derivatives such as sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

[0074] Examples of cationic surfactants include, but are not limited to, quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one hydrocarbyl having 16 or more carbon atoms, such as stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride and mixtures thereof.

[0075] Examples of nonionic surfactants include polyol and fatty acid esters with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as C8-C24 fatty acid glyceryl esters; C8-C24 fatty acid polyethylene glycol esters; C8-C24 fatty acid sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters, and their oxyalkylated derivatives; C8-C24 fatty alcohol sugar ethers and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Glyceryl esters of fatty acids that may be mentioned include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and / or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids which may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate) and more particularly polyethylene glycol monostearate 50 OE (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 OE (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and their mixtures.

[0078] Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name Arlacel 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, marketed under the name Tegin by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0079] The fatty acid esters of glucose or alkylglucose that may be mentioned in particular include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates, for example methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, for example methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methyl-glucoside and more particularly methylglucoside and oleic acid diester (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate); the methylglucoside and oleic / hydroxystearic acid ester mixture (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxystearate); the methylglucoside and isostearic acid ester (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate); the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate);the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate), and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by the company Amerchol, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Examples of oxyethylenated fatty acid and glucose or alkylglucose ethers that may be mentioned include oxyethylenated fatty acid and methylglucose ethers, and in particular polyethylene glycol ether of methyl glucose and stearic acid diester containing approximately 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL; polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by Amerchol, and the product marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by Goldchmidt, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] Examples of sucrose esters that can be mentioned include sucrose palmit-tostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.

[0082] Sugar ethers that may be mentioned in particular are alkyl polyglucosides, for example decyl glucoside, for example the product marketed under the name Mydol 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name Plantaren 2000 by Henkel, and the product marketed under the name Oramix NS 10 by SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, for example the product marketed under the name Oramix CG 110 by SEPPIC or under the name Lutensol GD 70 by BASF; lauryl glucoside, for example the products marketed under the names Plantaren 1200 N and Plantacare 1200 by Henkel; coco glucoside, for example the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 / UP by Henkel;cetearyl glucoside, optionally in the form of a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed, for example, under the name Montanov 68 by SEPPIC, under the name Tego-Care CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, marketed under the name Montanov 202 by SEPPIC; cocoylethyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture (35 / 65) with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, marketed under the name Montanov 82 by SEPPIC and mixtures thereof.

[0083] Examples of amphoteric surfactants include, but are not limited to, phospholipids which may be mentioned include phosphatidic acid (phosphatidate), phosphatidylethanolamine (cephalin), phosphatidylcholine (lecithin of any origin (soy, sunflower or marine)), hydrogenated lecithin, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylinositol phosphate, phosphatidylinositol bisphosphate, phosphatidylinositol triphosphate, ceramide phosphorylcholine (Sphingomyelin), ceramide phosphorylethanolamine (Sphingomyelin), ceramide phosphorycerol and mixtures thereof.

[0084] Other surfactants, as primary surfactants, may include sorbitan monoesters such as sorbitan stearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan laurate, cholesterol, lanolin and phytosterols.

[0085] Preferably, the non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than said short-chain surfactant is a non-ionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, or mixtures thereof.

[0086] Preferably, the non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than said short-chain surfactant is selected from glyceryl esters of fatty acids, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, fatty acid esters of glucose or alkylglucose, oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and glucose or alkylglucose, alkyl polyglucosides, phospholipids and mixtures thereof, more preferably from alkyl polyglucosides, phospholipids or mixtures thereof, more preferably from de-cylglucosides, lauryl glucoside, cocoglucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, hydrogenated lecithin, and their mixtures.

[0087] According to the present invention, the non-fatty surfactant other than said short-chain surfactant is present in an amount ranging from about 0.05% by weight to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.08% by weight to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.1% by weight to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Emollients

[0088] The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one emollient agent. The emollient may be a polar and / or non-polar emollient.

[0089] As used here, the term "polar emollient" refers to any emollient having at least one polar fraction. The emollient may be one or both of the oil-soluble emollients of high and medium polarity.

[0090] Non-limiting examples of polar emollients include, but are not limited to, esters, polyol esters, and polyol ethers such as linear or branched polyglycerol esters and polyglycerol ethers. For example, the polar emollient may be selected from caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, PPG-3 myristyl ether, isopropyl palmitate, dibutyl adipate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglyceride, cetearyl isonanoate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, phenethyl benzoate, and their compounds. Other examples of emollients include oil-soluble emollients with high or medium polarity fractions.

[0091] The emollient may be a non-polar, oil-soluble emollient. The term "non-polar emollient" refers to any emollient that does not possess permanent electric moments.

[0092] Non-limiting examples of nonpolar emollients may include, in particular, nonpolar hydrocarbons, such as linear or branched hydrocarbons. For example, emollients may be selected from paraffins, isoparaffins, mineral oil, C15.19 alkane, isohexadecane, isododecane, diethylhexyl cy- clohexane and their mixtures. In some cases, the non-polar emollient is chosen from isododecane, C15.19 alkane and their mixtures.

[0093] According to the present invention, the emollient is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 1% by weight to about 15% by weight, or from about 5% by weight to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Solvent

[0094] Generally, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one solvent. The solvent of the composition of the present invention may include one or more compounds miscible in water or at least partially miscible in water (at room temperature of 20-25°C), for example, lower C2-C8 polyols, monoalcohols, or polyol ethers (containing, in particular, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms). The solvent of the composition of the present invention may include water, or consist essentially of water.

[0095] The term "polyol" should be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for example butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (namely glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

[0096] The monoalcohol can be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.

[0097] The polyol ether can be selected from mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, and their combinations.

[0098] Advantageously, the solvent is present in an amount ranging from about 20% by weight to about 90% by weight, preferably from about 30% by weight to about 85% by weight, or from about 40% by weight to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients

[0099] The composition according to the present invention may also include other ingredients, previously known in cosmetic compositions, such as cosmetic active ingredients, thickeners or gelling agents, sequestering agents, preservatives, perfumes, etc.

[0100] In particular, the cosmetic active agent may be at least a hydrophilic active agent. The term "hydrophilic active agent" refers to an active agent that is soluble in water or dispersible in water and capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

[0101] Examples of hydrophilic active agents that can be mentioned include moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, humectants, anti-aging agents; mattifying agents, healing agents, antibacterial agents and their mixtures.

[0102] The hydrophilic active agent(s) may in particular be chosen from:

[0103] - vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and their esters (e.g. tocopheryl acetate), and ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof;

[0104] - humectants

[0105] - C-glycoside compounds, preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

[0106] - antioxidant compounds;

[0107] - active anti-aging agents, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and including sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds and in particular 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (capryloylsalicylic acid), adenosine, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and the salt of (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid and

[0108] - their mixtures.

[0109] Advantageously, the hydrophilic active agent is present in an amount ranging from 0% by weight to about 40% by weight, e.g. about 10% by weight to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] Advantageously, the thickener or gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0% by weight to approximately 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Compositions

[0111] As understood in the art, it is difficult to stabilize the composition comprising a short-chain surfactant and a relatively higher amount of hydroxyl-containing acid.

[0112] By means of the above liquid crystal system, the composition which further comprises a short-chain surfactant and a relatively higher quantity of a hydroxyl-containing acid can achieve good stability even at a high temperature, for example: about 45 °C.

[0113] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention may comprise one or more fatty alcohols having fewer than 20 carbon atoms. Preferably, the composition of the present invention does not comprise fatty alcohols having fewer than 20 carbon atoms.

[0114] In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the above fatty alcohols plus the above principal surfactants to the emollients is about 10 or more, preferably about 15 or more, or about 18 or more, for example: about 18.7% or more.

[0115] In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the principal surfactants above to the fatty alcohols above is about 1 / 10 or more, preferably about 1 / 8 or more, or about 1 / 6 or more.

[0116] By means of specific ratios, the composition of the present invention makes it possible to obtain better stability and a good skin feel, for example: no soapy effect when applied to the skin. Method and use

[0117] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a method of caring for keratinous materials, in particular skin, by applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material.

[0118] In one embodiment, the process includes the following steps in order: washing the skin, wiping the skin, and applying the composition according to the present invention to the skin, and optionally massaging the skin for about 2 seconds to about 40 seconds.

[0119] According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a liquid crystal system to improve the stability of a composition comprising a keratolytic system and optionally at least one emollient.

[0120] In one embodiment, the keratolytic system comprises at least one hydroxylated acid and at least one short-chain surfactant, and the liquid crystal system comprises, consists essentially of, or even consists of at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms and at least one non-fatty alcohol-based surfactant other than said short-chain surfactant.

[0121] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustration. EXAMPLES

[0122] The main raw materials used, trade names and their supplier are listed in Table 1.

[0123]

[0124]

[0125] [Tables 1] Name INCI Trade Name Supplier LÉCITHINE HYDROGENÉE NIKKOL LECINOL S10 NIKKO ALCOHOL BÉ-HENYLIQUE LANETTE 22 BASF ALCOOLS C20-22 NAFOL 2022 FR SASOL ACID LACTIQUE-LACTIQUE-9 %)(CRG) MUSASHINO CHEMISTRY LABORATORY SALICYLIC ACID AMIPRESERVE CRODA COCOATE GLYCERYL PEG-7 CETIOL AND BASF LAURATED POLY-GLYCERYL-5 SUNSOFT A-121 ACCOUNTAGE GLUCONO-DELTA- LACTONE F5010 PERSONAL CAR JUNGBUNZLAUER ISONONANOATE OF CÉTEARYLE CETIOL SN BASF C15-19 ALKANE EMOGREEN L19 SEPPIC ISOHEXADECANE ISOHEXADECANE INEOS-ALCOHYOLQUEETY BEHENYLIQUE (et) GLUCOSIDE ARA-CHIDYLIQUE MONTANOV 202 SEPPIC ALCOHOL CÉ-TÉARYLIQUE LANETTE O OR BASF STEARYLIQUE ALCOHOL LANETTE 18 BASF Examples of the Invention 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 Compositions according to inventive formulas Ex. 1-2 and comparative formulas EC. 1-3 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (unless otherwise indicated, the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active ingredient per relative to the total weight of each composition):

[0126] [Tables2] Components Ex. 1 comp. 2 CE. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 Hydrogenated Lecithin 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside 1.8 Stearyl Alcohol 0.75 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.5 Behenyl Alcohol 0.37 1.5 0.75 C2O Alcohols 22 1.25 Lactic Acid 6.66 6.66 6.66 6.66 6.66 Salicylic Acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Gluconolactone 5 5 5 5 5 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Laurate POLY-GLYCERYL-5 1 1 1 1 1 CETEARYL ISONONANOATE 2 2 2 2 2 ISOHEXADECANE 2 2 2 2 2 C1519 ALKANE 4 4 4 4 4 WATER QS QS QS QS QS

[0127] Note: ARAHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) Arachidyl Glucoside 55%; Arachidyl Alcohol 30% by weight; Behenyl Alcohol 15% by weight; Arachidyl Glucoside

[0128] Preparation procedure:

[0129] The compositions were prepared as follows:

[0130] 1). Addition of water, the alcohol(s) and each of the surfactants to the tank main and heating of the mixture to 80 °C;

[0131] 2). Gradually adding emollients to the main tank with a strong ho homogenization;

[0132] 3). After homogenization for 5 min, cooling of the mixture and maintenance homogeneous of the latter;

[0133] 4). Weakening of homogenization when the temperature is lowered to 45 °C and

[0134] 5). Addition of other ingredients, if necessary, and cooling of the mixture to 30 +C and unloading of the compositions. Shaking stability test

[0135] The stability property was evaluated according to the following process:

[0136] 1) adding the compositions into 60 ml glass stability bottles;

[0137] 2) placing the bottles in ovens at 4 CFV, 37 °C and 45 °C for 2 months, respectively, and

[0138] 3) evaluation of the appearance, color and odor of the compositions after 2 months. soapy effect

[0139] Normal quantities of the compositions were applied to the backs of the users' hands and the appearance of an apparent white trace was checked during application; the absence of a white trace or a slight white trace was acceptable, otherwise the result was not acceptable.

[0140] [Table 3] Composition Performance Properties Ex. 1 Ex. 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Soapy effect (white streaks) No soapy effect No soapy effect Soapy effect Soapy effect Soapy effect Stability Accepted Accepted Phase separation at T0 Phase separation at 45 °C after 2 months Not stable, more fluid at 45 °C

[0141] According to the data in Table 3, it can be seen that, at relatively high quantities of each of the keratolytic agents, only compositions comprising at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms and a main surfactant could achieve the desired stability.

[0142] On the other hand, even for compositions comprising a fatty alcohol having 20 or more carbon atoms and a fatty alcohol having less than 20 carbon atoms, the desired stability cannot be obtained, as shown by the effects of Comparative Example 3.

[0143] Furthermore, only compositions comprising at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms and a principal surfactant could achieve a better skin feel, for example, no soapy effect. However, compositions comprising only one fatty alcohol having 20 or more carbon atoms, or compositions comprising no fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms, cannot achieve a desirable skin feel because these compositions resulted in a soapy effect when applied to the skin.

Claims

Demands

1. Use of a liquid crystal system to enhance the stability of a composition comprising a keratolytic system and optionally an emollient, the keratolytic system comprising at least one hydroxyl acid selected from the group consisting of α-hydroxy acids, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, salicylic acid, precursors thereof, and mixtures thereof, and at least one short-chain surfactant derived from PEG / PG, which is derived from polyethylene glycols and / or polyglycerols and of which each oleophilic chain contains 14 carbon atoms or less, and the liquid crystal system comprising, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of at least two fatty alcohols having 20 carbon atoms or more, and at least one non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than said short-chain surfactant.

2. Use according to claim 1, wherein the hydroxylated acid is selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone and mixtures thereof.

3. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from the saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I): Rl-OH (I) where the RI group is a linear or branched alkyl, preferably a linear alkyl, with at least 20 carbon atoms, preferably 20-40 carbon atoms, better still 20-30 carbon atoms, and particularly 20-24 carbon atoms.

4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition does not comprise fatty alcohols having fewer than 20 carbon atoms.

5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than said short-chain surfactant is selected from glyceryl esters of fatty acids, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, fatty acid esters of glucose or alkylglucose, oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and glucose or alkylglucose, alkyl polyglucosides, phospholipids and mixtures thereof; preferably, is selected from the group consisting of decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cocoglucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, hydrogenated lecithin and mixtures thereof.

6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, in the composition comprises at least one emollient, which is preferably selected from non-polar emollients and / or polar emollients; preferably, the polar emollient is selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, dibutyl adipate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglyceride, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof, and / or the non-polar emollient is selected from the group consisting of Ci5-i9 alkane, isohexadecane, isododecane, cycloethylene cycloether and mixtures thereof.

7. Use according to claim 1, the hydroxylated acid being present in an amount from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and / or the emollient comprises both non-polar and polar emollients and is present in an amount from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.