This product, in particular a cosmetic, is adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and / or décolletage and is loaded with hydrophilic active ingredients.

Abstract

A cosmetic article adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and / or décolletage and loaded with a hydrophilic active ingredient, comprising a non-woven support sheet made of non-synthetic fibers, and containing at least one hydrophilic active ingredient intended to exert a specific action on the skin, characterized by the fact that said active ingredient is immobilized at the level of said support sheet, in a dry state, in a non-covalent manner and in association with at least one hydrophilic plant exudate with a melting point ranging from 55 °C to 140 °C.

Description

Title of the invention: A cosmetic article adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and / or décolletage and loaded with a hydrophilic active ingredient technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic treatment devices, in particular cosmetic product applicators. "Cosmetic product" means any composition as defined in Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products.

[0002] It relates in particular to devices capable of conforming to the shape of the area to be treated and advantageously able to adapt to the contours of the face, neck and / or décolleté, like, for example, a face mask.

[0003] It also relates more particularly to the implementation of such devices for the topical administration of one or more hydrophilic active ingredients, in particular water-soluble ones, but packaged in a dry state within these devices. Prior art

[0004] Hydrophilic active ingredients can indeed exhibit instability when stored in a solubilized or dispersed form in an aqueous medium for extended periods and may therefore be subject to partial degradation during prolonged storage in this form. To prevent this undesirable phenomenon, it is common practice to add one or more preservatives to these active ingredient solutions. However, there is a desire to minimize the use of such preservatives in cosmetic products. Description of the invention

[0005] The inventors were therefore concerned with developing a new type of packaging suitable for preserving these hydrophilic active ingredients in a dry form but also compatible with solubilization or aqueous dispersion of the latter at the time of their contact with the skin area to be treated.

[0006] This formulation in the dry state at the level of a device, which is also flexible to adapt to the contours of the face, neck and / or décolletage, like for example a face mask, requires in addition to meet a number of additional requirements.

[0007] It is necessary to ensure a permanent immobilization of the powdered formulation of these active ingredients on the application surface of this device.

[0008] This same device must be suitable for packaging a wide variety of powdered formulations, both in terms of particle size and the nature of the active ingredients. inert or living.

[0009] Any agglomeration phenomenon, such as clumping, of this powder formulation at the device level, as well as any risk of degradation of these assets, must be prevented.

[0010] These active ingredients must be efficiently transferred to the skin area to be treated and in a solubilized form.

[0011] In addition to all these requirements, there are those of offering consumers an aesthetically attractive device that is also environmentally friendly and whose development involves a simple process and imposes the smallest possible carbon footprint.

[0012] As will be apparent from the following, the inventors have precisely developed such a device, also called a cosmetic article, and a corresponding manufacturing process enabling satisfaction in these terms. Summary of the invention

[0013] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to an article, in particular a cosmetic adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and / or décolletage, comprising a non-woven support sheet, made of non-synthetic fibers, and which contains at least one hydrophilic active ingredient intended to exert a specific action on the skin, characterized by the fact that said active ingredient is immobilized at the level of said support sheet, in a dry state, in a non-covalent manner and in association with at least one hydrophilic plant exudate and with a melting point ranging from 55 °C to 140 °C.

[0014] As illustrated below, the article according to the invention has the advantage of being compatible with the immobilization of a significant quantity of hydrophilic active material whose particle size can vary significantly, in particular from 1 pm to 2000 pm, and preferably varying from 5 pm to 1700 pm.

[0015] Furthermore, when the dry active ingredient-loaded support sheet comes into contact with water, advantageously no lumping occurs. The active ingredient is fully delivered to the surface of the skin to which the active ingredient-loaded support sheet is applied.

[0016] According to a particular embodiment, the hydrophilic plant exudate is water-soluble and has a melting point ranging from 60 °C to 110 °C.

[0017] According to a particular embodiment, the plant exudate comprises at least and in particular consists of an exudate from Aloe Vera leaves.

[0018] According to a particular embodiment, the hydrophilic active ingredient is a vitamin, and in particular vitamin C.

[0019] In particular, said hydrophilic active ingredient and said hydrophilic plant exudate are used in an active ingredient / exudate weight ratio varying from 95 / 5 to 50 / 50, in particular of 90 / 10 to 70 / 30.

[0020] As specified above, the support sheet (10) is non-woven and is made of non-synthetic fibers.

[0021] In particular, the active-loaded fibrous support considered in the article according to the invention is obtained by a process comprising at least the steps of:

[0022] -To have a dry and powdery mixture of at least said hydrophilic active ingredient, in particular water-soluble, with at least said plant exudate,

[0023] -To form, on one face of a non-woven, porous, non-synthetic fiber support sheet, a deposit, at least partially in depth, of said mixture,

[0024] -Exposing said deposit to a calendering operation carried out at a temperature and pressure conducive to the melting of said plant exudate but inactive with respect to said active ingredient and the fibers of said support sheet, and preferably at a temperature ranging from 100 °C to 140 °C and a pressure ranging from 0.4 kN to 600 kN for less than 30 seconds, and

[0025] -Retrieve said support sheet loaded with hydrophilic active.

[0026] The present invention further relates to the use of an article, in particular a cosmetic article according to the invention, to treat the skin of the face, neck and / or décolleté.

[0027] According to a first variant, the fibrous support of said article is moistened with water, in particular by soaking, imbibing, or spraying in water, before application, and then applied to the skin, preferably previously wetted, being stretched or not, so as to adapt to the morphology of the user.

[0028] According to a second variant, the fibrous support of said article is applied in a dry state to wet skin.

[0029] According to a third embodiment, the fibrous support of said article is applied in a dry state to dry or wet skin, and then moistened, in particular by spraying with water. Brief description of the drawings

[0030] [Fig.1] illustrates the adhesion qualities of vitamin C on an article according to the invention. Detailed description fibrous support

[0031] As specified above, the constituent fibers of the support considered according to the invention for immobilizing at least one hydrophilic, and in particular water-soluble, active ingredient are non-synthetic fibers.

[0032] For the purposes of the invention, non-synthetic fibers are fibers not derived from materials exclusively accessible by chemical synthesis such as, for example, a synthetic polymer.

[0033] Thus, the non-synthetic fibers retained according to the invention are advantageously chosen from natural fibers of natural origin material such as natural cellulose fibers, fibers generated from at least one material of natural origin such as natural cellulose, recycled cellulosic fibers such as circulose, bio-based fibers such as fibers obtained by bio-fermentation such as microbial cellulose and mycelium moss and their mixtures.

[0034] These fibers are advantageously hydrophilic, absorbent and, moreover, not subject to yellowing when exposed to a temperature strictly below 150 °C, preferably strictly below 130 °C. They are also non-heat-fusible.

[0035] In particular, non-synthetic fibers are chosen from natural cellulose fibers, regenerated cellulose fibers, wood pulp fibers, paper fibers, fibers from seeds such as cotton and kapok, fibers from plant stems such as flax, hemp, jute and nettle, fibers from leaves such as abaca, fibers from fruits such as coconut and mixtures thereof.

[0036] For the purposes of the invention, "a regenerated cellulose fiber" is a fiber obtained from natural cellulose transformed by a succession of chemical operations, in particular as specified below for the Lyocell product.

[0037] The natural cellulose used to manufacture regenerated cellulose fibers can thus come from different wood pulps (beech, white pine, eucalyptus ...), or even from bamboo pulp.

[0038] According to a particular embodiment, the constituent fibers of the fibrous support comprise at least and in particular consist of regenerated cellulose fibers, notably like those of the Lyocell product.

[0039] More specifically, this product is obtained from wood pulp which is mixed with an environmentally friendly organic dissolving agent and water. The mixture is then heated under vacuum to remove the water until the cellulose dissolves and a spinning solution is formed. This solution is then filtered and pressed through spinnerets before being placed in a spinning bath where the fibers are formed. Such a product is marketed under the names Tencel® and Veocel®.

[0040] According to a particular embodiment, the fibrous support considered according contains at least wood pulp fibers.

[0041] According to another particular embodiment, the fibrous support contains regenerated cellulose fibers and one or more other fibers selected from wood pulp fibers, paper fibers, fibers derived from seeds such as cotton and kapok, fibers derived from plant stems such as flax, hemp, jute and nettle, fibers derived from leaves such as abaca, the fibers derived from fruits such as coconut and their mixtures.

[0042] According to a particular embodiment, the fibrous support contains regenerated cellulose fibers and wood pulp fibers and / or paper pulp fibers and in particular regenerated cellulose fibers and wood pulp fibers.

[0043] Representative examples of fibrous supports consisting of such fiber mixtures include Tricell® non-woven supports from Ecowipes, CAC supports from Mondi, Sontara® supports from Glatfelter and BioLace® supports from Suominen.

[0044] According to a particular embodiment, the synthetic fibers constituting said fibrous support consist of regenerated cellulose fibers and wood pulp fibers.

[0045] According to another particular embodiment, the fibrous support contains regenerated cellulose fibers and recycled non-synthetic textile fibers.

[0046] As specified above, the fibrous support is in the form of a sheet or in other words a plate of thin fibrous material.

[0047] The constituent fibers of said support are not woven and therefore their structural organization provides porosity at the level of the support sheet considered according to the invention.

[0048] According to a particular embodiment, the fibrous support considered according to the invention is loaded with at least 10 g / m2, or even with at least 25 g / m2 of hydrophilic active. hydrophilic plant exudate

[0049] As stated above, the hydrophilic active ingredient according to the invention is immobilized on the fibrous substrate in association with at least one hydrophilic plant exudate with a melting point ranging from 55 °C to 140 °C, in particular from 60 °C to 110 °C.

[0050] This exudate also exists in a dry form.

[0051] In particular, it is water-soluble.

[0052] It has a melting temperature below 150 °C, preferably below 130 °C, in order to be efficiently and rapidly melted during the preparation of the fibrous support forming the article according to the invention, in particular according to the process detailed below.

[0053] It is advantageously not subject to a yellowing phenomenon at a temperature strictly below 100 °C, preferably strictly below 130 °C.

[0054] In addition to its ability to contribute to the immobilization of the active ingredient at the level of the fibrous support, the plant exudate can also have a cosmetic activity with respect to the skin, and possibly provide a cosmetic effect, in synergy or not, with the effect attached to the active ingredient impregnated in the fibrous support.

[0055] According to a particular embodiment, the binder comprises at least and in particular consists of an exudate of Aloe Vera leaves.

[0056] As a representative example of such an exudate, reference may be made to the commercial product Aloe Vera Freeze Dried Powder® 200:1 from Mexi Aloe Lab. Hydrophilic active ingredient

[0057] For the purposes of the invention, "hydrophilic active" means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

[0058] In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient is a water-soluble active ingredient.

[0059] It can be represented by a single active ingredient or a mixture of hydrophilic active ingredients. For the purposes of the invention, the term "hydrophilic active ingredient" covers both of these alternatives.

[0060] Immobilized at the level of the fibrous support, the hydrophilic active ingredient retains its properties, in particular its cosmetic activity and its hydrophilicity. In other words, its native properties are not affected by its preparation method, particularly as detailed below, which includes a calendering operation carried out at a temperature ranging from 100 °C to 140 °C and a pressure ranging from 0.4 kN to 600 kN.

[0061] The cosmetic active ingredient is present in the support it impregnates, in a dry and powdery state. It may be, in particular, a native powder but also a powder obtained by conventional drying or by spray drying, or freeze-drying for example.

[0062] For the purposes of the invention, the term dry means that the ingredient concerned, in particular the active ingredient as well as the associated plant exudate detailed above, contains less than 6% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight of water, and more preferably less than 2% by weight of water, relative to its total weight.

[0063] A dry ingredient thus exhibits excellent powdery fluidity, conducive to its intimate mixing with other ingredients and to its penetration into the porosity of the support sheet considered.

[0064] The asset, immobilized according to the invention, is not covalently bound to the fibrous support and is therefore able to free itself from it by interacting with an aqueous medium.

[0065] This active ingredient may in particular be an antioxidant, healing, moisturizing, depigmenting, and / or anti-aging agent.

[0066] By way of representative and illustrative example of these categories of active ingredients, the following compounds may be cited in particular: C-glycoside compounds

[0067] In particular, this cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from among the C-glycoside compounds, with the following general formula:

[0068] [Chem.l] S" "X—R

[0069] in which:

[0070] - R denotes an unsubstituted linear alkyl radical in Ci-C4, in particular in Ci-C2, in in particular methyl;

[0071] - S represents a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N- acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

[0072] - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, and preferably tially a -CH(OH)- group;

[0073] as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

[0074] By way of illustration and not limitation of C-glycosides more particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be mentioned in particular:

[0075] - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

[0076] - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

[0077] - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0078] - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0079] - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0080] - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0081] - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

[0082] - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

[0083] - the 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;

[0084] - the 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;

[0085] - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane;

[0086] - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

[0087] as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers. Compound of niacinamide

[0088] In particular, this cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from niacinamide (also known as Vitamin B3), N,N-diethylniacinamide, N-picolylniacinamide, N-allylniacinamide. Adenosine and its analogues

[0089] In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient may be selected from adenosine and its analogues such as 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-isopropoylidene adenosine, toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine; N-6-methyladenosine, adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside, 6-chloropurine riboside, 5'-adenosine monophosphate, 5'-adenosine diphosphate and 5'-adenosine triphosphate, phenyl- sopropyl-adenosine (PIA), 1-methylisoguanosine, N-6-Cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N-6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N-6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N-6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, N-6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl)phenethyl-amino-5'-Nethylcarboxamido-adenosine (CGS-21680), N-10-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, metrifudil, erythro-9-(2-hydroxy3-nonyl)adenine (EHNA) and Fiodotubercidine.

[0090] Adenosine is notably available commercially in powder form from the company Pharma Waldhof. Ascorbic acid and derivatives

[0091] In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from ascorbic acid, also called Vitamin C, in D or L form, advantageously in L form, and its analogues chosen from its salts, preferably sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated ascorbic acid, its sugar esters and its phosphorylated metal salts.

[0092] The sugar esters of ascorbic acid usable in the invention include, in particular, glycosylated, mannosylated, fructosylated, fucosylated, galactosylated N-acetylglucosamine, N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof, and more specifically ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid or 6-O-[3-D-galactopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid. These latter compounds, as well as their preparation processes, are described in particular in documents EP 487 404 and EP 425 066.

[0093] The phosphorylated ascorbic acid metal salt can be selected from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

[0094] The derivatives of ascorbic acid can be chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate marketed under the reference PRO-AA by Exsymol, potassium salt of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-dl-ascorbyl-phosphate marketed under the reference Sepivital EPC by Senju Pharmaceutical, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate marketed under the reference Stay-C 50 by Roche and ascorbyl glucoside marketed by Hayashibara.

[0095] This may in particular refer to the product marketed by BASF under the name Ascorbic Acid / 80 Mesh.

[0096] According to a particular mode, the support according to the invention contains at least one vitamin and in particular vitamin C or one of its derivatives, in particular its salts. Hyaluronic acid

[0097] In particular, this cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives.

[0098] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" covers, in particular, the basic hyaluronic acid motif of formula:

[0099] [Chem.2]

[0100] The term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes, within the scope of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, in a chain of alternating glycosidic linkages [3(1,4) and [3(1,3)], having a molecular weight (MW) that can vary between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source of the hyaluronic acid and / or the preparation methods.

[0101] The term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also covers, according to the invention, salts of hyaluronic acid and in particular alkaline salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt.

[0102] In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in pericellular gels, in the basic substance of connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and in particular in the epidermis, in articular synovial fluid, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the cristae cristae.

[0103] Thus, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" includes all fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular within the molecular weight range recalled above.

[0104] In the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use hyaluronic acid fractions that do not exhibit inflammatory activity.

[0105] As an illustration of the different fractions of hyaluronic acid, reference can be made to the document "Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich System", R. Stern et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid according to its molecular weight.

[0106] Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes hyaluronic acid esters, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxyl groups of the acid functions are esterified with alcohols or oxyethylenated alkyls, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a substitution rate at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid varying from 0.5% at 50%.

[0107] Examples include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters were notably described in D. Campoccia et al. “Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification”, Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

[0108] Hyaluronic acid may be available in particular from Hyactive under the trade name CPN (MW: 10 to 150 kDa), from Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (MW: 1.1 x 106), from Bioland under the name Nutra HA (MW: 820000 Da), from Bioland under the name Nutra AF (MW: 69000 Da), from Bioland under the name Oligo HA (MW: 6100 Da) or from Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (MW: 380 Da).

[0109] Preferably, sodium hyaluronate is used. Salicylic acid compounds

[0110] In particular, this cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from among the salicylic acid compounds.

[0111] The salicylic acid compound is preferably selected from salicylic acid and compounds of the following formula:

[0112] [Chem.3]

[0113] in which:

[0114] - the radical R designates an aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; an unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which may be conjugated; an aromatic ring linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0115] - R' is a hydroxyl group;

[0116] as well as their salts derived from a mineral or organic base.

[0117] Among the particularly preferred salicylic acid compounds are n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid), n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-heptanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and their corresponding salts.

[0118] The salicylic acid compound is preferably chosen from salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and more preferably is n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

[0119] The salts of the compounds with the formula illustrated above can be obtained by saltification with a mineral or organic base. Examples of mineral bases include alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or ammonia.

[0120] Among the organic bases, amines and alkanolamines can be mentioned. Quaternary salts such as those described in patent FR 2 607 498 are particularly interesting.

[0121] This active ingredient can also be a plant extract such as madecassoside extracted from Centella asiatica.

[0122] More specifically, this asset can be chosen from:

[0123] - vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as in particular nia- cinamide (3-pyridinecarboxamide), nicotinamide (vitamin B3), provitamin B5 also known as panthenol, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), ascorbic acid and its derivatives (vitamin C),

[0124] - hydrating agents, such as in particular urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, poly- glycerols, glycerol glucoside, diglycerol glucoside, polyglyceryl glucosides, xylityl glucoside and plant extracts, notably from tea, mint, orchid, soy, aloe vera, honey, and in particular glycerol,

[0125] - C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydro- rantriol (or proxlane)

[0126] - antioxidant compounds,

[0127] - anti-aging active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and including sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentylacetic acid,

[0128] - keratolytic agents such as, in particular, lactic acid or glycolic acid, And

[0129] - their mixtures.

[0130] Preferably, an article according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble cosmetic active ingredient selected from moisturizers, C-glycoside compounds, and in particular hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, hyaluronic acid compounds and especially sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds

[0131] and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, lactic acid, adenosine and its analogues, plant extracts such as madecassoside, niacinamide compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] Even more preferably, an article according to the invention comprises at least one anti-aging cosmetic active ingredient, in particular selected from hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, or proxylane, adenosine, niacinamide compounds, salicylic acid compounds, ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof, more particularly selected from hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, adenosine, niacinamide compounds, ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0133] According to a particular embodiment, the fibrous support considered according to the invention contains at least vitamin C and in particular from 15 g / m2 to 35 g / m2 of vitamin C.

[0134] According to a particular embodiment, the fibrous support considered according to the invention contains at least an exudate of Aloe Vera leaves and 15 g / m2 to 35 g / m2 of vitamin C.

[0135] According to another particular embodiment, the fibrous support considered according to the invention comprises regenerated cellulose fibers and contains at least vitamin C, in particular from 15 g / m2 to 35 g / m2 of vitamin C.

[0136] In addition to at least one hydrophilic active ingredient and at least one plant exudate according to the invention, the fibrous support of said article may contain one or more additional compounds. Additional compounds

[0137] Additional compounds may include anti-caking agents, powder flow aids, stabilizers, pH regulators and buffers.

[0138] These additional compounds are also present in dry form and in particular in powder form.

[0139] In a particular embodiment, the fibrous support according to the invention further contains at least one anti-caking agent which can in particular be chosen from silica, sodium carbonate, talc, a bamboo exudate (rich in silica) and mixtures thereof, and in particular at least silica.

[0140] In a particular embodiment, the fibrous support loaded according to the invention further contains at least one stabilizer which may in particular be sodium citrate.

[0141] In a particular embodiment, the fibrous support loaded according to the invention further contains at least one thickener or texturizer.

[0142] According to an advantageous embodiment, the fibrous support of the invention is preferably free from compounds that may be harmful to humans and / or the environment, i.e. it contains less than 0.01% by weight, or is devoid of compounds that may be harmful to humans and / or the environment.

[0143] Thus, it is in particular free from silicone compound and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and preferably is free from silicone compound and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid.

[0144] Method for preparing the fibrous support of the article according to the invention

[0145] The fibrous support loaded with hydrophilic active ingredient can be obtained by bringing into contact a dry powder form of the hydrophilic active ingredient to be immobilized, with a non-woven, porous fibrous support made of non-synthetic fibers, in the presence of at least one hydrophilic plant exudate with a melting point as defined according to the invention.

[0146] As stated above, this process includes, in particular, the following steps

[0147] - To have a dry, powdered mixture of this hydrophilic active ingredient, in particular hy water-soluble, with at least one hydrophilic plant exudate, particularly water-soluble, with a melting point ranging from 55 °C to 140 °C,

[0148] - Forming on one side of the non-woven, porous, fiber-based support sheet non-synthetic materials considered, a deposit, at least partially deep within the material, of said mixture,

[0149] - Expose said deposit to a calendering operation carried out at a temperature and pressures conducive to the melting of said plant exudate but inactive with respect to said active ingredient and the fibers of said support sheet, and preferably at a temperature ranging from 100 °C to 140 °C and a pressure ranging from 0.4 kN to 600 kN for less than 30 seconds, and

[0150] - Retrieve said support sheet loaded with hydrophilic active. a) Formation of the deposit

[0151] In particular, the deposit is formed from a powdery mixture of at least the two ingredients required according to the invention and whose particle size may, where appropriate, have been adjusted beforehand to a particle size range which is in accordance with the porosity of the support to be loaded with active ingredient.

[0152] Generally, the particle size of the two deposited ingredients can vary significantly, in particular from 1 µm to 2000 µm, and preferably from 5 µm to 1700 µm. This particle size can be characterized, for example, with a dry Aero disperser such as the Mastersizer 3000 laser diffraction particle size analyzer (Malvern Panalytical).

[0153] According to a particular embodiment, the powders of each of the ingredients, hydrophilic active ingredient and plant exudate, and, if present, one or more other additional compounds, particularly those defined above, are respectively introduced in the form of a dry powder into a powder mixing unit such as a batch powder mixer to mix them thoroughly.

[0154] The application of the mixture to one side of the substrate sheet to be loaded can be carried out using a technique such as dusting, with a powder funnel, or by spraying, for example, with a nozzle. In some cases, it is possible to use localized dusting or a stencil to impregnate only certain areas of the substrate.

[0155] Sprinkling is generally carried out over the entire surface of the support to be impregnated.

[0156] The substrate thus coated with the mixture can then be subjected to a mechanical operation, in particular one designed to make the mixture penetrate the porosity of the substrate. Advantageously, the formation of the mixture deposit includes, in particular, an impregnation operation, mechanical or otherwise, designed to make said mixture penetrate at least partially into the porosity of said substrate sheet.

[0157] The impregnation operation may in particular be chosen from a brushing operation, a scraping operation applied to the surface of said deposit, a vibration operation imposed on said support sheet, a suction operation applied to the face of the support sheet opposite to that supporting said mixture, or even a combination of at least two of these operations.

[0158] For example, this may involve vibrating or shaking the surface deposit of the support to stimulate the movement of the powder deposited on the surface of the support within the porosity of the fibrous support.

[0159] Another impregnation technique can be based on air suction applied to the reverse side of the powder-loaded substrate face. This suction would advantageously allow for the recovery of excess powder.

[0160] The deposit is said to be "partially formed in depth", on the grounds that the powdery mixture may not be entirely distributed in the pores of the fibrous support and that a part may remain on the surface.

[0161] Generally, this deposit is formed at ambient temperature 20 °C + / -5 °C and at atmospheric pressure. b) Calendering operation

[0162] This operation takes place following the deposition of the powdered mixture.

[0163] The parameters of the calendering operation, namely temperature, pressure and time, are in fact adjusted to lead to the melting of the plant exudate in question while preventing the manifestation of an undesirable side effect with regard to the hydrophilic active ingredient and the fibers constituting the support, which are also exposed to this calendering.

[0164] In other words, the calendering operation does not alter the integrity, effectiveness, or hydrophilicity of the active ingredient, nor does it generate a significant yellowing of the constituent fibers of the nonwoven backing. The latter remains after the calendering, attractive in terms of appearance for its user.

[0165] This calendering is carried out on the scale of the second and in particular in a duration of less than 50 seconds, and preferably less than 30 seconds.

[0166] According to a particular embodiment, the calendering operation is carried out at a temperature varying from 100 °C to 140 °C and a pressure varying from 0.4 kN to 600 kN for less than 30 seconds, preferably for less than 15 seconds.

[0167] This calendering operation is generally carried out using an in-line heated calender.

[0168] At the end of this calendering step, a fibrous support sheet impregnated with at least one hydrophilic active ingredient in the dry state according to the invention is obtained.

[0169] As specified above, the fibrous support of the invention is loaded with at least 10 g / m2, or even with at least 25 g / m2 of hydrophilic active.

[0170] This impregnation rate can in particular be characterized according to the method detailed in the experimental part and which is based in particular on the characterization of a content by weight at the level of the fibrous support loaded according to the invention.

[0171] In this case, the fibrous support is weighed after the flash calendering step and is fixed to a Bose® test bench (model 3330). Weighted by attaching a 4 g clamp to its end, it is shaken for 30 seconds at a frequency of 10 Hz and with an amplitude of 12 mm. It is then weighed a second time. The ratio between the post-shake weight and the pre-shake weight determines the degree of powder impregnation within the fibrous material.

[0172] The article obtained according to the invention is in particular in the form of a face mask, a wipe, a disc or pad (“pad”) and in particular in the form of a face mask.

[0173] According to another embodiment, the support sheet has perforations and / or cutouts.

[0174] According to a particular embodiment, the article is associated with a reservoir containing the aqueous medium dedicated to the hydration of said active ingredient. Cosmetic treatment process

[0175] The invention further relates to a cosmetic treatment method, in particular for cleansing and / or caring for the skin, in particular the face, neck and / or décolleté, comprising at least the step of applying to the skin to be treated a fibrous support sheet loaded with hydrophilic active ingredient of an article according to the invention, in the presence of an aqueous medium or even water.

[0176] According to one embodiment, the fibrous support sheet is loaded with an aqueous medium or even water prior to its application to the skin. In particular, this loading can be carried out by immersing the support in an aqueous medium or even water, by imbibing it with an aqueous medium, or by spraying the support with a aqueous environment or even water.

[0177] According to another embodiment, the fibrous support sheet is applied to moistened skin.

[0178] According to yet another embodiment, the fibrous support sheet is applied to dry or moistened skin, and is then brought into contact with an aqueous environment or even water, in particular by spraying or moistening.

[0179] The fibrous support sheet is kept on the skin for a determined time and adjusted to the release of the active ingredient in its water-soluble or water-dispersible form.

[0180] Generally this duration can vary from 1 minute to 30 minutes, or even from 2 minutes to 20 minutes, being for example in the order of 10-15 minutes approximately.

[0181] The process according to the invention can in particular be useful for rehydration, anti-wrinkle, anti-puffiness, or anti-swelling treatments, or even for providing a plumping effect.

[0182] The following examples and figures are presented for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. Materials and methods

[0183] Ascorbic acid is a commercial powdered product available from BASF under the name Ascorbic Acid / 80 Mesh. Its particle size expressed in micrometers is as follows: D10 = 35+ / -5, D50 = 160+ / -70, D90 = 350+ / -155 and its melting point is greater than 180 °C.

[0184] Aloe Vera exudate is a commercial powdered product available from Mexi Aloe Laboratorios (marketed by Rossow). Its particle size, expressed in micrometers, is as follows: D10 = 20, D50 = 55, D90 = 1700 and its melting point varies from 67 °C to 108 °C.

[0185] The porous, non-woven backing is made of Lyocell material. This product is available from the supplier Jacob Holm (roll width = 32 cm, thickness = 0.5 mm, and surface mass = 50 g / m²). The fibrous backing used for the tests is cut from this non-woven roll in the form of discs. Powder loss protocol:

[0186] To quantify the impregnation of the powder within the fibrous support, the following protocol is implemented:

[0187] The fibrous support is weighed after the calendering step and is fixed to a Bose® test bench (model 3330). The fibrous support is then weighted by attaching a 4 g clamp to its end. The fibrous support is then shaken for 30 seconds at a frequency of 10 Hz and with an amplitude of 12 mm. At the end of the sequence, the support is weighed a second time. The ratio between the post-shake weight and the pre-shake weight determines the impregnation rate of the powder within the fibrous material. The ratio between the pre-shake weight minus the post-shake weight and the pre-shake weight allows us to define the powder loss rate following shaking. Example 1

[0188] Impregnation of powdered ascorbic acid onto a non-woven disc according to the invention

[0189] A first step consists of grinding by centrifugation 100 g of a mixture of ascorbic acid and Aloe Vera exudate in a weight ratio of 85:15 respectively. This grinding is carried out using a Stuart Sr4® centrifugal mill; the mill is filled to one-third of its maximum capacity and then grinding takes place for 1 h at maximum power in order to obtain a mixture for deposition with particle sizes as follows: D10 = 16, D50 = 45, D90 = 94 µm.

[0190] The resulting powdered mixture is then manually applied by sprinkling onto the fibrous disc, and the powder is then spread evenly and homogeneously over the surface of the fibrous material using a brush. The operation is complete when the surface mass of ascorbic acid reaches 25 g.m2.

[0191] The disc and its resulting deposit are then placed on a preheated aluminum plate (15 cm x 15 cm) in contact with the press and covered with a sheet of Teflon®-coated fiberglass fabric. The assembly is then subjected to a pressing process using a Fontijne Presses LabEcon 600 heated platen press at a pressure of 30 kN and a temperature of 130 °C for 5 seconds.

[0192] The fibrous disc thus loaded is characterized as having a powder loss of about 20%. A very minor and therefore insignificant yellowing is observed.

[0193] The same test is repeated but with a mixture of 100g of ascorbic acid and Aloe Vera exudate (A) in a weight ratio of 80:20 respectively. The support thus loaded is characterized as having no powder loss defects and as not subject to significant yellowing.

[0194] Figure 1 shows these powder adhesion results. As expected, the adhesion of the powder to the nonwoven fabric is increased by increasing the binder content. At 20% binder in the powder mixture, the adhesion is maximized under the shaking conditions detailed above. No powder loss is observed.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic article, adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and / or décolletage comprising a non-woven backing sheet, made of non-synthetic fibers, not derived from materials exclusively accessible by chemical synthesis, and which contains at least one hydrophilic active ingredient intended to exert a specific action on the skin, characterized by the fact that said active ingredient contains less than 6% by weight of water relative to its total weight and is immobilized at the level of said backing sheet, in a dry state and, in a non-covalent manner, by melting of at least one hydrophilic plant exudate and with a melting point ranging from 55 °C to 140 °C.

2. Article according to the preceding claim in which said plant exudate is water-soluble and has a melting point ranging from 60 to 110 °C.

3. Article according to any one of the preceding claims wherein said plant exudate comprises at least and in particular consists of an exudate of Aloe Vera leaves.

4. Article according to any one of the preceding claims wherein said active ingredient is water-soluble and selected from moisturizers, C-glycoside compounds, and in particular hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, hyaluronic acid compounds and in particular sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, lactic acid, adenosine and its analogues, plant extracts such as in particular madecassoside, niacinamide compounds, and mixtures thereof.

5. Article according to any one of the preceding claims wherein said fibrous support is loaded with at least 10 g / m2, or even with at least 25 g / m2, of hydrophilic active.

6. Article according to any one of the preceding claims wherein said hydrophilic active and said plant exudate are implemented in an active / exudate weight ratio varying from 95 / 5 to 50 / 50, in particular from 90 / 10 to 70 / 30.

7. Article according to any one of the preceding claims wherein said fibrous support contains vitamin C and at least one Aloe Vera leaf exudate, and in particular 15 g / m2 to 35 g / m2 of vitamin C.

8. Article according to any one of the preceding claims in said fibrous support further contains at least one anti-caking agent and in particular at least silica.

9. Article according to any one of the preceding claims wherein said non-synthetic fibers are selected from natural fibers of naturally sourced material, fibers generated from at least one naturally sourced material, recycled cellulosic fibers, bio-based fibers and mixtures thereof.

10. Article according to any one of the preceding claims in the form of a face mask, wipe, disc or pad and in particular in the form of a face mask.

11. Article according to any one of the preceding claims associated with a reservoir containing an aqueous medium dedicated to the hydration of said active ingredient

12. Use of a cosmetic article as defined in any of the preceding claims for cosmetically treating and / or cleansing the skin of the face, neck and / or décolleté.

13. Use according to claim 12, characterized in that the fibrous support of said article is moistened with water before application, then applied to the skin preferably previously wetted, being stretched or not, so as to adapt to the morphology of the user.

14. Use according to claim 12, characterized in that the fibrous support of said article is applied in a dry state to wet skin.

15. Use according to claim 12, characterized in that the fibrous support of said article is applied in a dry state to dry or wet skin and then the support sheet is moistened in particular by spraying with water.

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