Stable cosmetic composition containing a monoglyceride, a citric acid derivative and a C-glycoside derivative

Abstract

Stable cosmetic composition containing a monoglyceride, a citric acid derivative and a C-glycoside derivative. The invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises at least one monoglyceride and at least one citric acid derivative, at least one C-glycoside derivative of general formula (I), water with a content of at least 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method using the composition of the invention.

Description

Title of the invention: Stable cosmetic composition containing a monoglyceride, a citric acid derivative and a C-glycoside derivative

[0001] The invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising at least one monoglyceride, at least one citric acid derivative, and at least one C-glycoside derivative. The invention relates in particular to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising at least one monoglyceride, at least one citric acid derivative, at least one C-glycoside derivative, and water at a content of at least 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0002] C-glycoside derivatives are of great interest, given their biological effects on the skin, particularly on the signs of skin aging such as fine lines and wrinkles. However, these anti-aging active ingredients can be difficult to formulate, particularly in complex systems such as lamellar phases.

[0003] There is therefore a need for compositions, particularly cosmetic ones, which are stable and which are capable of conveying concentrations which can be high in C-glycoside derivatives while presenting sensory characteristics in the codes of care.

[0004] It would therefore be particularly interesting to be able to maximize the performance of C-glycoside derivatives, in particular by having galenic formulas concentrated in this active ingredient which have good cosmetic qualities, such as good spreading and non-stickiness during application, with a non-sticky and non-shiny skin finish.

[0005] There is also a need for compositions of C-glycoside derivatives which prove to be stable over time. Subject of the invention

[0006] The present invention specifically aims to propose a new galenic formulation of C-glycoside derivatives making it possible to meet the aforementioned expectations.

[0007] More specifically, the subject of the invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one monoglyceride, at least one citric acid derivative, and at least one C-glycoside derivative.

[0008] The present invention particularly relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises;

[0009] - at least one monoglyceride;

[0010] - at least one citric acid derivative, in particular its esters, its salts, and their mixture(s);

[0011] - at least one C-glycoside derivative of the following general formula (I):

[0012] [Chem.l] If (I)

[0013] in which:

[0014] - R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4, in particular C1-C2, alkyl radical, especially methyl;

[0015] - S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N- acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

[0016] - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, and preferably initially a -CH(OH)- group;

[0017] as well as its cosmetically acceptable salts, its solvates such as hydrates and its optical isomers; and

[0018] - at least 55% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] Advantageously, the composition comprises an aqueous phase.

[0020] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 55% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] Preferably, a composition according to the invention contains a coagel phase.

[0022] Aqueous systems based on the combination of monoglyceride and a surfactant are of the coagel type, coagels have been used in food for several years to make light margarines. A coagel generally comprises a three-dimensional matrix containing a continuous aqueous phase. A coagel is a complex system generally consisting of fatty body crystals percolated in an aqueous phase. Such a three-dimensional architecture can contain up to 98% of an aqueous phase.

[0023] Ces systèmes ont fait l’objet d’études structurales importantes. On peut citer entre autres les articles suivants : Liquid Crystalline Phases in the Structuring of Food Products, 1998, Lebensmittel-Wissenschaft und-technologie, 31, 387-396 ; Investigation of the Gel to Coagel Phase Transition in Monoglycéride-Water Systems (Langmuir 1998, 14, 5757-5763) ; Lipid organization and dynamics of the monostea-roylglycerol-water System. A 2H NMR study (Chemistry and Physics of lipids 109 (2001) 15-28) ; Rheological Characterization, Crystallization, and Gélation, Behavior of Monoglycéride Gels (Journal of Colloid and Interface Science 249, (2002) 412-422).

[0024] The composition thus obtained is stable during storage. For example, no microscopic or macroscopic changes are observed after two months at room temperature and when stored at 45°C. Furthermore, the composition has good cosmetic properties, in particular good sensoriality and a good anti-aging effect on the skin.

[0025] Furthermore, the present invention makes it possible to increase the quantity of C-glycoside derivatives introduced into cosmetic compositions.

[0026] The compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of creams, mousses, or sticks. It is important to note that the compositions according to the invention, although they have the appearance of cosmetic creams, have, when observed under a microscope, a structure different from conventional emulsions characterized, for example, by a regular carpet of droplets. The compositions according to the invention are characterized in particular by a highly birefringent appearance in polarized light typical of their semi-crystalline nature.

[0027] This semi-crystalline structure can in particular be characterized by X-ray diffraction at a temperature below the melting temperature of the lamellar phases. This technique is well known to those skilled in the art and widely described in the literature. Definitions

[0028] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here, the term “physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0029] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is understood to mean in particular the skin, the scalp, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair, and the body hair, the nails, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin (body, face, eye contour, eyelids).

[0030] In what follows, the expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more” and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain.

[0031] The percentages of the constituents are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. Monoglyceride

[0032] A monoglyceride, or monoacylglycerol (MAG), is a glyceride formed from a fatty acid residue combined with a glycerol residue by an ester bond. They can be classified into two groups, 1-monoacylglycerols and 2-monoacylglycerols depending on whether the acyl group is in position 1 or 2 of the glycerol residue.

[0033] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises, as monoglyceride, one or more monoglycerides comprising a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0034] Preferably, the monoglyceride comprises an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 16 or 18 carbon atoms.

[0035] In the present case, we are particularly interested in 1-monoacylglycerols, like those of the following formula (example in Cl8):

[0036]

[0037] The length of the fatty acid chain can range from C12 to C22, preferably C16 or C18 monoglyceride esters are chosen.

[0038] The raw material used is important in that the monoglycerides used make it possible to form a coagel phase. In particular, monoglycerides containing less than 10% residual diglycerides are used. Monoglyceride stearates are preferably used, for example those sold under the name DIMODAN HP by the company DANISCO, or those sold under the name TEGIN 90 by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.

[0039] The monoglyceride content of the formulations according to the invention ranges from 1% to 20%, preferably from 2 to 10% and very preferably from 3 to 8% by mass relative to the total mass of said composition.

[0040] Surfactant with citric acid derivative(s), its salts, its esters

[0041] The emulsifying system of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one citric acid derivative, its salts and its esters. The citric acid derivatives comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon fatty chain, comprising from 10 to 17 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and even better still 18 carbon atoms, and the inorganic salts, such as alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, organic salts, and their mixture(s). 5 According to a preferred embodiment, the citric acid derivative(s) comprises(s) the esters resulting from the reaction of a citric acid, a glycerol ester and at least one fatty acid, with the fatty acid(s) comprising from 7 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0042] Preferably, the glycerol and fatty acid ester is a monoester. Preferably, the fatty acid is stearic acid. The citric acid derivative is preferably the compound bearing the INCI name glyceryl stearate citrate which is the ester resulting from the reaction of citric acid and a monoester of glycerol and stearic acid (glyceryl stearate). 15 As a commercial reference, mention may be made of glyceryl stearate citrate marketed by the company Karlshamns under the name Akoline LC, or by the company Degussa or Evonik under the name Axol C 62. Mention may also be made of commercial mixtures containing this compound, such as Ceralution C and Ceralution H from the company Sasol Germany Gmbh or Tocomix D from Jan Dekker. 20

[0043] The content of citric acid derivative(s), its salts and / or its esters in the formulations according to the invention ranges from 0.02% to 2%, preferably from 0.05 to 1%, and very preferably from 0.1 to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. C-glycoside derivative

[0044] The composition according to the invention comprising at least one C-glycoside derivative of the following general formula (I):

[0045] [Chem.l] S' ^X—R (I)

[0046] in which: - R denotes an unsubstituted linear alkyl radical in C1-C4, in particular in C1-C2, in particular methyl; - S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, and preferably a -CH(OH)- group; as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

[0047] By way of illustration and non-limiting example of the C-glycosides of formula (I) which are more particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may in particular be mentioned: - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane; - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane; - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane; - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane; - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; - 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-propan-2'-one; - 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-propan-2'-one; - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane; - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; - as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers. Preferably, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane is used, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane. Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) suitable for the invention may advantageously be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, the INCI name of which is HY-DROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL, notably marketed under the name MEXORYL SBB® or MEXORYL SCN® by Novéal (Chimex). In a particular embodiment, such a C-glycoside is present in concentrated form, i.e. in a concentrated hydrophilic dispersion containing 70% active material; such a C-glycoside is marketed under the name MEXORYL SCS by NOVEAL. The salts of the C-glycosides of formula (I) suitable for the invention may comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. By way of example, mention may be made of salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. These can be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids.These acids may also comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

[0048] Acceptable solvates for the compounds described above include conventional solvates such as those formed during the last step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. For example, solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol may be mentioned.

[0049] C-glycosides (I) are known from document WO 02 / 051828.

[0050] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a C-glycoside, preferably C beta D xylopyranoside 2 hydroxy propane, in an amount of between 0.03% and 10.5% by weight of active material (C-glycoside) relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.17% and 5.25% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 0.52% and 3.5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0051] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase, and comprises at least 55% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises a water content of 55% to 75% by weight, preferably of 55% to 70% by weight, more particularly of 59% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime blossom water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, of Enghien-les-Bains, the water of Saint Gervais-les-Bains, the water of Néris-les-Bains, the water of Allevar-les-Bains, the water of Digne, the water of Maizières, the water of Neyrac-les-Bains, the water of Lons-le-Saunier, the Eaux Bonnes, the water of Rochefort, the water of Saint Christau, the water of Fumades and the water of Tercis-les-bains, the water of Avene. The aqueous phase can also include reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a thermal water.

[0054] The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive. As water-soluble additives, mention may be made in particular of polyols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. By "polyols" is meant any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. As polyols, mention may be made, for example, of glycerin, glycols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycol. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol is chosen from glycerin and hexylene glycol. Preferably, the polyol is glycerin.

[0055] As water-soluble additives, mention may also be made of primary alcohols, that is to say an alcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. This is preferably ethanol. The addition of such an alcohol may be particularly appropriate when the composition according to the invention is used as a product for the body or hair.

[0056] The amount of water-soluble or water-dispersible additives in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 0 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH of between 4 and 6, ideally close to 5, which makes it possible to optimize its stability. Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0058] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent. In particular, aqueous gelling agents and structuring agents conventionally used by those skilled in the art will be used. These gelling agents may be particulate or not, synthetic or of natural origin.

[0059] As hydrophilic gelling agent, mention may be made, for example, of carboxy-vinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides such as, for example, crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyl-dimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by the company CLARIANT under the trade name “Hostacerin AMPS” (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyl-dimethyl taurate) or SIMULGEL 800 marketed by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS and SEPINOV EMT 10 marketed by the company SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and in particular gums such as xanthan gum; and mixtures thereof.

[0060] According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent comprises at least xanthan gum.

[0061] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent comprises at least one acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymer, optionally in inverse emulsion. An inverse emulsion such as Simulgel 600 (INCI name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic may be used.

[0062] According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is a mixture of one or more of the compounds listed above.

[0063] According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from xanthan gum, copolymers of acrylamide and sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate and any of their mixtures.

[0064] According to one embodiment, the active material content of the hydrophilic gelling agent ranges from 0.1% to 5%, advantageously from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 2% by weight of silicone raw materials or silicone relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular does not comprise silicone raw materials or silicone, in particular chosen from

[0066] DIMETHICONE; DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER; DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER; POLYSILICONE-11; CYCLOHEXASILOXANE; DL METHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL; and / or CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (and) DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE.

[0067] In an alternative embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises one or more mineral fillers and / or one or more coated pigments.

[0068] The pigments and / or mineral fillers used according to the invention are treated in surface, totally or partially, by at least one hydrophobic treatment agent.

[0069] For the purposes of the invention, the surface treatment of a pigment and / or mineral filler generally designates the total or partial surface treatment by a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto said pigment and / or mineral filler. The surface-treated pigments and / or mineral fillers can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used. The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments and / or mineral fillers by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and / or creation of a covalent bond.

[0070] The content of mineral fillers and / or coated pigments can advantageously range from 0.1% to 4% by mass, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by mass relative to the total mass of said composition.

[0071] Oily phase

[0072] The composition according to the invention may also comprise an oily phase.

[0073] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one oil chosen from:

[0074] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene (or squalane);

[0075] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Cremer Oleo, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

[0076] - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate;

[0077] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as mineral oils (mixture of hydrocarbon oils derived from petroleum; INCI name: Mineral oil), paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated isoparaffin such as Parléam® oil marketed by NOF Corporation (INCI name: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene);

[0078] - fluorinated oils such as those partially hydrocarbonated and / or silicone such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

[0079] - ethers such as dicaprylic ether (CTFA name: Dicaprylyl ether); and C12-C15 fatty alcohol benzoates (Finsolv TN from FINETEX);

[0080] - their mixtures. Other ingredients

[0081] A certain quantity of oil can be introduced into the compositions according to the invention.

[0082] One or more oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used, in particular chosen from a mineral or vegetable oil.

[0083] Preferably the oil(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 35% by mass relative to the mass of the total composition.

[0084] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain the usual ingredients or additives in cosmetics: pigments, colorants, biological active agents (anti-aging agents, anti-oily skin, anti-perspirant, anti-oxidants, etc.), sun filters, film-forming polymers, diffusing fillers, oils and fatty substances, moisturizers, emollients, and any of their combinations.

[0085] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method in which a composition according to the invention as defined above is applied to keratin materials, and in particular to the skin.

[0086] The following examples will allow a better understanding of the invention, without however being limiting in nature. The raw materials are named by their INCI name. The quantities indicated are in % by weight of raw material, unless otherwise stated. Examples

[0087] Example 1: Preparation of cosmetic compositions according to the present invention [Tables 1] Phase Nom INCI Nom commercial Compositi on A selon l'invention Compositi on B selon l'invention A WATER EAU DESIONISEE MICROBIOLOGIQUE MENT PROPRE qsp qsp A GLYCERYL STEARATE TEGIN 90 PELLETS de EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT 5 5 A GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE AXOL C62 PELLETS de EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT 0,148 0,148 A CONSERVATEUR 0,5 0,5 A GLYCOL 5 5 A GLYCERIN GLYCERINE 4811K de OLEON 5 5 B C15-19 ALKANE EMOGREEN L19 de SEPPIC 6 6 B CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE DUB MCT 7030 / MB de STEARINERIE DUBOIS 6 6 Cl XANTHAN GUM KELTROL CG-T de CP KELCO 0,2 0,2 ​​C2 ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLT AURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 SIMULGEL 600 de SEPPIC 2 2 D ALCOHOL DENAT. CARGILL 66212 de CARGILL 3 3 D ACTIF 0.07 0.07 E HYDROXYPROPYL TE- MEXORYL SCN de 3 9 TRAHYDROPYRANTRIO L NOVEAL (35% in MA* Hy-droxypropyl tetrahydro-pyrantriol in 40% water and 25% propylene glycol)) F WEAK ACID PH Adjustment PH Adjustment F WATER MICROBIOLOGICALLY CLEAN DEIONIZED WATER 1 1 F BASE PH Adjustment PH Adjustment TOTAL 100 100 Preparation process:

[0088] 1- Preparation of phase B: Stir phase B at room temperature until obtaining a homogeneous mixture

[0089] 2- Introduce the mixture of phase A into a melter, maintain the temperature at 65°C for 45 minutes with stirring at 600 rpm until a homogeneous and opalescent phase is obtained

[0090] 3- Add phase B to phase A while stirring between 2000 and 4000 rpm

[0091] 4- Stop the heat flow and let it cool with vigorous stirring between 2000 and 4000 rpm

[0092] 5- At approximately 40°C, add phase C while stirring and mix until you obtain of a homogeneous, smooth and shiny phase

[0093] 6- At 30°C, add phase D while stirring then phase E. Mix until mogenization.

[0094] 7- Adjust the pH if necessary

[0095] Example 2: Stability of the compositions according to the invention

[0096] The storage stability of the compositions according to the invention was evaluated by subjecting them to an accelerated aging test which consists of storing them from 24 hours to two months at different temperatures in a thermostatically controlled oven (4°C, 25°C, 45°C), under macroscopic observation and under optical microscopy. [Tables 2] Composition A according to the invention Composition B according to the invention Stability T24h at 25°C Macroscopic appearance: white, soft, shiny, slightly granulated Microscopic appearance: regular dispersion of medium objects (20-50 pm) which polarize in Polarized Light, clear edges Macroscopic appearance: white, soft, shiny Microscopic appearance: regular dispersion of medium objects (20-40 pm) which polarize in Polarized Light, clear edges Stability 2 Months 4°C Macroscopic appearance: white, soft, shiny, slightly granulated Microscopic appearance: regular dispersion of medium objects (20-60 pm) which polarize in Polarized Light, clear edges Conclusion: Conforms to the observation T24h at 25°C Macroscopic appearance: white, soft, shiny Microscopic appearance: regular dispersion of medium objects (20-40 pm) which polarize in Polarized Light, clear edges Conclusion: Conforms to the observation T24h at 25°C Stability 2 Months 25°C Macroscopic appearance white, flexible, shiny,slightly granulated Microscopic appearance: regular dispersion of medium objects (20-80 pm) which polarize in Polarized Light, clear edges Conclusion: Conforms to the T24h observation at 25°C Macroscopic appearance: white, flexible, shiny Microscopic appearance: regular dispersion of medium objects (20-40 pm) which polarize in Polarized Light, clear edges Conclusion: Conforms to the T24h observation at 25°C Stability 2 Months 45°C Macroscopic appearance: white, flexible, shiny, a little pearly, slightly granulated Microscopic appearance: modification of the dispersion of objects (less agglomerated and less defined), appearance of drops of oil, clear edges, flush in LP Macroscopic appearance: white, flexible, shiny, a little pearly Microscopic appearance: modification of the dispersion of objects (less agglomerated and less defined), appearance of drops of oil, clear edges, flush in LP Conclusion: Conforms to , Conclusion: Compliant with the T24h observation at 25°C the T24h observation at 25°C Conclusion The evolution of the formula is considered compliant The evolution of the formula is considered compliant The compositions of the invention are satisfactorily stable, and are therefore suitable for the intended purpose. Perceived performance

[0097] A formula according to the invention was tested by expert people trained to test in the laboratory: self-application on 5 people on the back of the hand of a standard predefined quantity.

[0098] During application, at the end of application and after application, people are satisfied with the performance and cosmetic properties of the composition of the invention, in particular they consider that:

[0099] - during application: the playtime is sufficient with good spreading and non-stickiness

[0100] - at the end of application: emollient without having a present and greasy film

[0101] - skin finish: non-sticky, non-shiny

[0102] The compositions of the invention therefore have a good sensory experience, while having an anti-aging effect on the skin, and therefore respond to the problems initially set.

Claims

Claims

1. - Composition, in particular cosmetic, characterized in that it comprises; - from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one monoglyceride; - from 0.05 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one citric acid derivative chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of a citric acid and a glycerol ester and at least one fatty acid, with the fatty acid(s) comprising from 7 to 24 carbon atoms; - at least one C-glycoside derivative of the following general formula (I): [Chem.l] (I) in which: - R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4, in particular C1-C2, alkyl radical, in particular methyl; - S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2 )-, and preferably a -CH(OH)- group; as well as its cosmetically acceptable salts, its solvates such as hydrates and its optical isomers; and - at least 55% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. - Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition comprises a water content of 55% to 75% by weight, preferably of 55% to 70% by weight, more particularly of 59% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. - Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises as monoglyceride one or more monoglycerides comprising an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

4. - Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the monoglyceride comprises an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 16 or 18 carbon atoms.

5. - Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the composition comprises a monoglyceride content of 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. - Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the C-glycoside derivative is chosen from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and C alpha D xylopy-ranoside 2 hydroxy propane, preferably is C beta D xylopy-ranoside 2 hydroxy propane.

7. - Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the citric acid derivative(s) chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of a citric acid and a glycerol ester and at least one fatty acid, with the fatty acid(s) comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

8. - Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the citric acid derivative is the ester resulting from the reaction of citric acid and a monoester of glycerol and stearic acid, and / or the content of citric acid derivative(s) ranges from 0.1 to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. - Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises a C-glycoside, preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside 2 hydroxy propane, in an amount of between 0.03% and 10.5% by weight of active material (C-glycoside) relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.17% and 5.25% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 0.52% and 3.5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. - Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably a hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from xanthan gum, copolymers of acrylamide and sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate and any of their mixtures.

11. - Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains a coagel phase.

12. - Cosmetic treatment process in which a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11 is applied to keratin materials, and in particular to the skin.