COMPOSITION FOR THE REVITALIZATION OF KERATIN FIBERS

Abstract

COMPOSITION FOR THE REVITALIZATION OF KERATIN FIBERS The present invention relates to a keratin fiber care composition comprising a) at least one cationizable surfactant selected from tertiary amidoamines, b) at least one lipophilic acid, and c) at least one non-ionic lipophilic polyglycerol-based surfactant. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for revitalizing keratin fibers comprising a composition according to the present invention on keratin fibers. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR THE REVITALIZATION OF KERATIN FIBERS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a hair revitalizing composition. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for the treatment of keratinous materials. RELATED ART

[0002] Hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, weather conditions and / or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0003] There are many products for revitalizing hair. In order to meet the needs of diverse consumers, cosmetic companies wish to diversify the categories of hair oil-based products.

[0004] The selected amidoamine surfactants, including stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, are readily biodegradable and of natural origin. Amidoamines can be used as surfactants either in their nonionic form (pH greater than or equal to 7) or in their cationic form (pH less than 7). The cationic form is particularly advantageous due to its benefits for hair conditioning, such as antistatic, detangling, smoothing, and suppleness effects. Efforts have been made to formulate them in various water-based formulations, such as conditioners. However, the application of dimethylamine surfactants in their cationic form to oils can alter the transparent and homogeneous appearance of the composition.

[0005] It is highly desirable to offer the advantage of revitalizing hair by using certain products with a pleasing appearance, for example, certain products with a transparent appearance, and it is also desirable that hair conditioning products be stable over time.

[0006] Therefore, it is still necessary to develop a composition for revitalizing keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers, for example, hair, which has a transparent appearance and is stable over time. Summary of the invention

[0007] The object of the present invention is to formulate a transparent composition for revitalizing hair, which is stable over time.

[0008] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a keratin fiber revitalization composition comprising:

[0009] a) at least one cationizable surfactant selected from among the tertiary amidoamines,

[0010] b) at least one lipophilic acid and

[0011] c) at least one non-ionic lipophilic surfactant based on polyglycerol.

[0012] The inventors discovered that with the presence of lipophilic acid, the surfactant Tertiary amidoamine can be transferred in its cationic form, which is insoluble in the oil phase. With the presence of a nonionic lipophilic polyglycerol-based surfactant, the cationic form of tertiary amidoamine can dissolve in the composition, resulting in a transparent and stable solution.

[0013] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for revitalizing keratin fibers comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.

[0014] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0015] Unless otherwise indicated, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention. Where the definition of a term in the present invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention, the definition described in the present invention shall apply.

[0016] In this document, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0017] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0018] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used in this document, the term "comprising" also refers to the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0019] Unless otherwise stated, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like that are used in the description and claims should be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described in this document are approximate values ​​that can be changed according to the desired objective, if applicable.

[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin fibers" includes animal keratin fibers and human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0021] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise indicated, to a weight percentage. Oily phase

[0022] According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition preferably comprises an oily phase.

[0023] Said oily phase comprises at least one oil.

[0024] In addition, the compositions comprise at least one oil.

[0025] Better still, the composition includes at least one non-siliconized oil.

[0026] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone oil.

[0027] Here, "oil" means a compound or fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0028] The composition according to the invention may in particular include hydrocarbon oils.

[0029] The term “hydrocarbon oil” refers to an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0030] The expression "non-siliconized oil" refers to an oil not comprising any silicon atoms, and in particular any Si-O group.

[0031] The expression "silicone-free oils" designates a composition according to the invention which comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even better is free (devoid) of silicone oils.

[0032] As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination with each other. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, preferably volatile.

[0033] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbons or others; a polar oil such as esters, fatty alcohols and ethers or a mixture of these.

[0034] The oil can be oils of vegetable or animal origin and synthetic oils.

[0035] Hydrocarbon oils can be selected from:

[0036] - lower linear or branched, possibly cyclic, C6-Ci6 alkanes. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, the tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and

[0037] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as ParleamO and squalane.

[0038] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils may be cited, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, undecane, tridecane, squalane, mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoicosan and decene / butene copolymer and mixtures thereof, vegetable oils, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0040] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0041] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, di-caprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0042] C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acid esters and C1-C22 alcohol esters may also be used, as well as C4-C26 monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acid esters and dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols. The following compounds may be mentioned in particular: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; dii-sostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylethylethyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neotyl glycol diheptanoate; Diethylene glycol diiso-nonanoate.

[0043] Sugar esters and diesters can be used as ester oils C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds containing multiple alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides. Examples of suitable sugars that can be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, particularly alkylated derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example, methylglucose. Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C30, and preferably in C12-C22.If they are unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0044] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0045] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures of the latter such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as tetraethyl pentaerythrityl hexanoate.

[0046] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0047] An example that can be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0048] By way of examples of preferable ester oils, one may cite, for example,

[0049] diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl 2-octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate and mixtures thereof. - artificial triglycerides, for example, caprylic / capric triglyceride, tri- glyceryl myristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate and tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0050] For fatty alcohols, oleyl alcohol can be mentioned.

[0051] Ether hydrocarbon-based oil, also known as ether oil, can be volatile or non-volatile and is preferably non-volatile.

[0052] An ether hydrocarbon-based oil is an oil of formula R1OR2 in which RI and R2 independently designate a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group in C4-C24, preferably an alkyl group in C6-C18, and preferably an alkyl group in C8-C12. It may be preferable that RI and R2 be identical. As linear alkyl groups, we can mention a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a hep-tadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group.The following groups can be mentioned as branched alkyl groups: a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, an l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a group 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, an l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group, and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group. Other cyclic alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.

[0053] Advantageously, the ether oil is selected from the group consisting of di-caprylyl ether, dicaprylic ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Preferably, it is chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylic ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether and mixtures thereof. Dicaprylyl ether is particularly suitable for use.

[0055] Preferably, the oil is selected from branched alkane oils containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and even better, 10 to 16 carbon atoms, such as isododecane, ester oils, an oil based on ether hydrocarbons having a C8-Ci2 alkyl group such as dicaprylic ether, fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Preferably, the oil is selected from isododecane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, coco-caprylate / caprate, isostearated isopropyl, dicaprylyl ether, squalane, fatty alcohol, such as oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 50% by weight to about 99.9% by weight, preferably from about 85% by weight to about 97.5% by weight, or from about 88% by weight to about 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises more than 50% by weight of oil, better still, more than 70% by weight of oil, even better still more than 80% by weight of oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] Cationizable surfactant selected from tertiary amidoamines

[0060] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one cationizable tertiary amidoamine surfactant.

[0061] Amidoamines are a class of chemical compounds formed from fatty acids and diamines.

[0062] Preferably, the cationizable surfactant is chosen from among the tertiary amidoamines with an alkyl chain in Ci0- C30.

[0063] Better still, the cationizable surfactant is chosen from among the (Cio-C30)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkyl(di)(Ci-C6)alkylamines.

[0064] By (Cio-C30)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkyl (di)(Ci-C6)alkylamine, it is to be understood that the alkyl group can be linear or branched, and by amido, it is to be understood that the -C(O)-N(R)- or -N(R)-C(O)- group in which R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl group in C1.

[0065] Better still, the cationizable surfactant is chosen from among the tertiary amidoamines of the following formula:

[0066] R'-C(O)-N(H)-R2-NR3R4 (A)

[0067] in which:

[0068] R1 is an alkyl or alkenyl group having a carbon chain in the form Ci0- C30>

[0069] R2 is a linear Ci-C6> alkylene group and

[0070] R3 and R4, whether identical or different, are linear alkyl groups having a chain carbonaceous in Ci-C4

[0071] Preferably in formula (A),

[0072] R1 is a linear alkyl group having a carbon chain in Ci2-C24,

[0073] R2 is a linear Cr C4 alkylene group, and

[0074] R3 and R4 are identical, representing methyl or ethyl groups.

[0075] Better still, in formula (A), R2 is a -(CH2)3- group, and R3 and R4 are -CH3 groups

[0076] Non-limiting examples of tertiary amidoamine surfactants include the following: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soybean amidopropyl dimethylamine, wheat germ amidopropyl dimethylamine, sunflower seed amidopropyl dimethylamine, almond amidopropyl dimethylamine, avocado amidopropyl dimethylamine, babas sou amidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, mink amidopropyl dimethylamine, oat amidopropyl dimethylamine, sesame amidopropyl dimethylamine, tallow amidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicaamidopropyl dimethylamine, olive amidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, and their combinations.

[0077] Preferably, the cationizable surfactant is chosen from brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine and their combinations.

[0078] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0079] Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine can be represented by the following formula (Al):

[0080] RC(O) -N(H)-(CH2)3-N(CH3)2 (Al)

[0081] wherein RC(O) is a fatty acid derived from brassica campestris seed oil (rapeseed oil), with a majority of the behenyl group (C22).

[0082] As a brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine useful in the composition of the present invention, PROCONDITION™ 22 from Inolex Chemical Company may be cited.

[0083] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0084] Stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine can be represented by the following formula (A2):

[0085] CH3-(CH2)16-C(O) -N(H)-(CH2)3-N(CH3)2 (A2)

[0086] As examples of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine useful in the composition of the present invention, we may mention in particular TEGO® AMID S 18 from Evonik and GENAMIN® SPA from Clarient.

[0087] Advantageously, the cationizable surfactant selected from aminoamines tertiary is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Lipophilic acids

[0088] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one lipophilic acid.

[0089] For the purposes of the present invention, in the presence of lipophilic acid, the tertiary amidoamine surfactant can be transferred in its cationic form, which can be used to revitalize keratin fibers such as hair.

[0090] Preferably, the lipophilic acid is chosen from salicylic acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, sorbic acid, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, maleic acid and their combinations.

[0091] In some embodiments, the lipophilic acid is selected from salicylic acid, lactic acid and their combinations.

[0092] Preferably, the molar ratio of the cationizable surfactant selected from among the lipophilic acid tertiary amidoamines is from 1:0.3 to about 1:4, alternatively from 1:0.4 to about 1:3.

[0093] Advantageously, the lipophilic acid is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] Lipophilic non-ionic surfactant based on polyglycerol

[0095] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one nonionic lipophilic surfactant based on polyglycerol.

[0096] Preferably, the non-ionic lipophilic surfactant based on polyglycerol is selected from the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

[0097] It is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester have a polyglycerol fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, better still from 4 to 8 glycerols, and even better from 5 to 6 glycerols. In other words, it is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise 2 to 10 polyglyceryl units, better still from 4 to 8 polyglyceryl units, and even better from 5 or 6 polyglyceryl units.

[0098] The polyglycerolic ester of fatty acid may be selected from mono, di and triesters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably of saturated acid, including 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and myristic acid.

[0099] The lipophilic nonionic polyglycerol-based surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprylate, PG2 sesquicaprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 caprate, PG2 sesquicaprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 laurate, PG2 sesquilaurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 sesquimyristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 sesquistearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 sesquiisostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 sesquioleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 sesquicaprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 caprate, PG3 sesquicaprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 laurate, PG3 sesquilaurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 sesquimyristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 sesquistearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 Tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 sesquiisostearate, PG3 diisostearate,PG3 triisostéarate, PG3 oléate, PG3 sesquioléate, PG3 dioléate, PG3 trioléate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 sesquicaprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 caprate, PG4 sesquicaprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 laurate, PG4 sesquilaurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 sesquimyristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stéarate, PG4 sesquistéarate, PG4 distéarate, PG4 tristéarate, PG4 isostéarate, PG4 sesquiisostéarate, PG4 diisostéarate, PG4 triisostéarate, PG4 oléate, PG4 sesquioléate, PG4 dioléate, PG4 trioléate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 sesquicaprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 tetracaprylate, PG5 caprate, PG5 sesquicaprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 te-tracaprate, PG5 laurate, PG5 sesquilaurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 te-tralaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 sesquimyristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 tetramyristate, PG5 stéarate, PG5 sesquistéarate, PG5 distéarate, PG5 tristéarate, PG5 tetrastéarate, PG5 isostéarate,PG5 sesquiisostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 tetraisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 sesquioleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate, PG5 tetraoleate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 sesquicaprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 tetracaprylate, PG6 pentacaprylate, PG6 caprate, PG6 sesquicaprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 tetracaprate, PG6 pentacaprate, PG6 laurate, PG6 sesquilaurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 tetralaurate, PG6 pentalaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 sesquimyristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 tetramyristate, PG6 pentamyristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 sesquistearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 tetrastearate, PG6 pentastearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 sesquiisostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 tetraisostearate, PG6 pentaisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 sesquioleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG6 tetraoleate, PG6 pentaoleate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 caprylate, PG7 dicaprate, PG7 dioleate, PG7 caprylatePG8 dicaprate, PG8 dioleate, PG8 caprylate, PG9 dicaprate, PG9 dioleate, PG9 caprylate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 dioleate, PG10 caprylate and mixtures thereof.

[0100] It is preferable that the non-ionic lipophilic surfactant be based on polyglycerol be chosen from: polyglyceryl mono- or dicaprate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol motifs; polyglyceryl mono- or dioleate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol motifs; polyglyceryl mono- or dicaprylate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, and their combinations.

[0101] It is more preferable that the non-ionic lipophilic surfactant based on poly-glycerol be chosen from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate (PG6 dicaprate), polyglyceryl-6 dioleate (PG6 dioleate), polyglyceryl-6 caprylate (PG6 caprylate), polyglyceryl-2 oleate (PG2 oleate) and their combinations.

[0102] For example, SunSoft Q-102H-C, marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd., can be used as a dicaprate PG6. SunSoft Q-172H-C, marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd., can be used as a dioleate PG6. SunSoft Q-8H-C, marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd., can be used as a caprylate PG6.

[0103] Advantageously, the non-ionic lipophilic polyglycerol surfactant is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0104] The composition of the present invention may include one or more additional cosmetic active ingredients to revitalize and / or dye keratin fibers.

[0105] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of the additional cosmetic active ingredient based on the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0106] The composition according to the present invention may also include cosmetic adjuvants or additives commonly used in compositions to revitalize and / or color keratin fibers, for example, perfumes, preservatives and bactericides, pH regulators and mixtures thereof.

[0107] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Aqueous phase

[0108] The composition of the present invention may include aqueous phases dispersed in the oily phase. If so, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example, lower C2-C8 polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0109] The term "polyol" should be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for example butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (namely glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

[0110] If present, the aqueous phase may represent from 0.1% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.3% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] Preferably, if present, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.001% by weight to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.01% by weight to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.01% by weight to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of water, better still, less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a keratin fiber revitalization composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0114] a) from 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behena-midopropyl dimethylamine and their combinations;

[0115] b) from 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one lipophilic acid selected from the following: salicylic acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, sorbic acid, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, maleic acid and their combinations, and

[0116] c) from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one non-ionic lipophilic polyglycerol-based surfactant selected from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 caprylate and their combinations. Preparation and use

[0117] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the ingredients of the oily phase, the surfactants and the aqueous phase, as essential ingredients, as well as one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.

[0118] The process and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional process and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients in order to prepare the com- position according to the present invention.

[0119] The composition can be used on wet or dry hair.

[0120] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for revitalizing keratin fibers comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.

[0121] Preferably, the keratin fibers are the hair.

[0122] The composition according to the present invention can make keratin fibers soft or smooth, deliver a non-greasy sensory agent. EXAMPLES

[0123] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0124] The main raw materials used, trade names and their supplier are listed in Table 1.

[0125] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Stearamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine Mackine® 301 U Mo Solvay Lactic Acid L(+)-Lactic Acid 90% heat-stable personal care grade Jungbunzlauer Salicylic Acid Salicylic Acid JQC(HUAYIN) pharmaceutical Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate Sunsoft® Q-172H-C Taiyo Kagaku Oleyl Alcohol HD Ocenol 80 / 85 V / MB BASF Dicaprylic Ether Cetiol® OE BASF Coco-caprylate / caprate Dub™ 810C Stearinerie Dubois Isopropyl Isostearate Radia 7739 OLEON Squalane Saualane Neossanc™ Amyris Parfum La La Lan 93Y Givaudan Undecane (and) tridecane Cetiol® UT BASF

[0126] Examples of the invention 1 to 2 and comparative examples 1 to 5

[0127] Compositions according to inventive examples (IE) 1-2 and comparative examples (CE) 1-5 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents (were expressed as percentages by weight of ingredients relative to the total weight of each leave-in oil, unless otherwise stated):

[0128] [Tables2] Components El. 1 El. 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 CE. 5 Stearamidopropyl diethylamine 0.8 0.8 0.8 / / 0.8 / Lactic acid 0.54 / 0.54 / 0.54 / 0.54 Salicylic acid / 0.2 / / / 0.2 / Water 0.06 1 0.06 / 0.06 1 0.06 Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate 1.5 1.5 / 1.5 / / 1.5 Oleyl alcohol 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 Dicaprylic ether 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 Coco-caprylate / caprate 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 Isopropyl isostearate 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Squalane 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Fragrance 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Undecane (and) tridecane Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100

[0129] The compositions of inventive examples 1-2 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0130] The compositions of comparative examples 1 and 4 do not include a non-ionic lipophilic surfactant based on polyglycerol.

[0131] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include a cationizable surfactant and a lipophilic acid.

[0132] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include a cationizable surfactant and a non-ionic lipophilic surfactant based on polyglycerol.

[0133] The composition of comparative example 5 does not include a cationizable surfactant.

[0134] Preparation procedure:

[0135] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking as an example the composition of inventive example 1:

[0136] 1). mixture of fatty compounds (i.e. dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate / caprate, isopropyl isostearate, squalane, undecane (and) tridecane) and perfume to obtain a hair oil base;

[0137] 2). Addition of surfactants (i.e. stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and the polyglyceryl-6-dioleate) and acid (i.e. lactic acid) with stirring; and

[0138] 3). addition of water to the oil base to obtain the composition. Assessment :

[0139] The stability of the resulting no-rinse oils was evaluated by maintaining the no-rinse oils at -10 °C for 24 hours, at room temperature (25 °C) for 1 week, and at 45 °C for 1 week, respectively, and by visually observing the physical appearance, color, and odor of the tested no-rinse oil. If no changes in the parameters are observed at any temperature, the tested no-rinse oil can be considered stable; otherwise, it is considered unstable.

[0140] The appearance of the no-rinse oils obtained was observed with the naked eye.

[0141] The level of cosmetic performance was evaluated as follows:

[0142] 1. Wash a sample of natural hair (6 g) using a regular shampoo.

[0143] 2. Apply 0.1 g of the tested oil sample evenly by hand onto the wet hair sample and

[0144] 3. Carefully dry the hair sample with oil.

[0145] The sensory characteristic of the treated hair sample was perceived by hand and classified as "acceptable" or "unacceptable" based on the following standard:

[0146] Acceptable: perceptible improvement in sensory perception compared to the original oil base.

[0147] Not acceptable: no perceptible sensory improvement compared to the original oil base.

[0148] The results have been summarized in Table 3.

[0149] [Tables3] Appearance Stability Cosmetic Performance Level ELI Homogeneity and transparency Stable Acceptable EI.2 Homogeneity and transparency Stable Acceptable EC.1 Heterogeneity and phase separation. White precipitates appear. Unstable Not acceptable EC.2 Homogeneity and transparency Stable Not acceptable EC.3 Presence of heterogeneous droplets and water at the bottom. Unstable Not acceptable EC.4 Heterogeneity and phase separation. White precipitates appear. Unstable Not acceptable EC.5 Homogeneity and transparency Stable Not acceptable

[0150] Table 3 shows that the compositions of invention examples 1-2 are stable and transparent and can provide an acceptable level of cosmetic performance.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition for the revitalization and / or cleansing of keratin fibers, comprising: a) at least one cationizable surfactant selected from brassicami-dopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenami-dopropyl dimethylamine and their combinations; b) at least one lipophilic acid selected from salicylic acid, lactic acid and their combinations; and c) at least one nonionic lipophilic polyglycerol-based surfactant selected from a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, having a polyglycerol fraction derived from 5 or 6 glycerols.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the molar ratio of the cationizable surfactant selected from lipophilic acid tertiary amidoamines is from 1:0.3 to about 1:4, alternatively from 1:0.4 to about 1:

3.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, comprising at least one oil, wherein the oil is selected from isododecane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, coco-caprylate / caprate, isopropyl isostearate, dicaprylic ether, squalane, fatty alcohol, such as oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and combinations thereof; b) 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one lipophilic acid selected from salicylic acid, lactic acid, and combinations thereof; and c) 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one non-ionic lipophilic polyglycerol-based surfactant selected from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate and combinations thereof.

5. Non-therapeutic method of revitalizing keratin fibers comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 to the keratin fibers.