STABLE DISPERSION COMPOSITION COMPRISING A RETINOID

Abstract

Stable dispersion composition comprising a retinoid. Technical field: The present invention relates to a dispersion composition comprising a continuous phase and a plurality of dispersed phases, comprising: (a) at least one retinoid and (b) at least one compound capable of providing a solution of the retinoid with a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less and, even better, 2% or less, for light with a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm, along a 10 mm optical path length, the concentration of the compound in the solution being 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution; (c) at least one hydrophilic antioxidant other than ingredient (b) and (d) at least one cationic polymer. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: STABLE DISPERSION COMPOSITION COMPRISING A RETINOID technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a stable dispersion composition comprising at least one retinoid, preferably a stable cosmetic dispersion composition comprising the latter. PREVIOUS ART

[0002] Retinoids are known to be useful in the field of cosmetics, for example, because they can act as active anti-aging ingredients that can be used to treat wrinkles and other imperfections. However, they tend to be unstable under certain conditions. For example, retinol is soluble in lipophilic solvents, but the retinol solution can quickly become discolored (yellow / brown) and the retinol it contains can degrade over time.

[0003] To date, some earlier documents disclose compositions comprising a retinoid. For example, WO 2021 / 123337 discloses a composition comprising at least retinol; di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate; and a salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid.

[0004] In addition, WO 1996 / 018380 discloses the use of a) one or more compounds from the flavonoid group or b) a combination of active substances containing one or more compounds selected from the flavonoid group in combination with one or more compounds selected from the cinnamic acid derivatives group, c) optionally with the additional use of one or more compounds from the imidazole derivatives group and / or d) optionally with the additional use of one or more compounds from the antioxidants group or metal activators or comparable substances, to stabilize sensitive cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients or components, where the sensitive cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients may include vitamins A, C or E or their derivatives.

[0005] In addition, WO 1996 / 007396 discloses a skin care composition comprising an oil-in-water emulsion and a retinoid selected from the group consisting of vitamin A alcohol, vitamin A aldehyde, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0006] Compositions including the retinoid(s) also have stability problems, such that they tend to discolor and give off a bad odor, depending on light or temperature conditions, and the retinoid(s) in the compositions degrade over time under exposure to light or high temperature. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0007] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition in the form of a stable dispersion comprising at least one retinoid in which the retinoid is stable under conditions of exposure to light and high temperature.

[0008] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a dispersion composition comprising a continuous phase and a plurality of dispersed phases, comprising:

[0009] (a) at least one retinoid and

[0010] (b) at least one compound capable of providing a solution with a transmittance 10% or less, preferably 5% or less and, better still, 2% or less, for light with a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm, along an optical path of 10 mm, the concentration of the compound in the solution being 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution;

[0011] (c) at least one hydrophilic antioxidant agent other than ingredient (b) and

[0012] (d) at least one cationic polymer;

[0013] The (a) retinoid is present in the dispersed phases.

[0014] The (b) compound, (c) hydrophilic antioxidant and (d) cationic polymer are present in the continuous phase.

[0015] The (a) retinoid may be retinol.

[0016] The quantity of the (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] Compound (b) may be selected from polyphenols, preferably quercetin, isoquercetin, rutin, glucosylrutin and a mixture thereof.

[0018] The quantity of (b) compound in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The hydrophilic antioxidant agent (c) can be selected from ascorbic acid, salts of ascorbic acid and their combination.

[0020] The quantity of (c) hydrophilic antioxidant agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 5% and 20% by weight and, even better, between 10% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The (d) cationic polymer can be chosen from cationic polysaccharides, preferably non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides, even better cationic gums, in particular cationic galactomannan gums.

[0022] The amount of (d) cationic polymer in the composition can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The continuous phase can be a continuous aqueous phase.

[0024] The dispersed phases include capsules.

[0025] The quantity of the (c) polyhydric alcohol(s) can range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 3% to 15% by weight, and even better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance. Best embodiment of the invention

[0027] After careful research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to provide a dispersion composition comprising at least one retinoid, the composition having a stable dispersion form and being able to maintain the retinoid therein at a sufficient residual velocity, even in the event of exposure to light or high temperature.

[0028] The composition according to the present invention is a dispersion composition comprising a continuous phase and a plurality of dispersed phases, and which can be characterized by a combination of:

[0029] (a) at least one retinoid and

[0030] (b) at least one compound capable of providing a solution with a transmittance 10% or less, preferably 5% or less and, better still, 2% or less, for light with a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm, along an optical path of 10 mm, the concentration of the compound in the solution being 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution;

[0031] (c) at least one hydrophilic antioxidant agent other than ingredient (b);

[0032] (d) at least one cationic polymer;

[0033] The composition and process according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below.

[0034] [Composition]

[0035] The composition according to the present invention has a stable dispersion form with a plurality of dispersed phases. The expression "stable dispersion" here means that a The plurality of dispersed phases are stable without precipitation or floating over time. Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can maintain the retinoid therein at a sufficient residual velocity even when exposed to light and high temperatures. The dispersion here differs from emulsions in that the dispersed phase of the present invention is not composed of droplets of oils, water, and the like.

[0036] The composition according to the present invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic composition, in particular, a leave-on cosmetic composition. The composition according to the present invention can be applied to a keratinous substance, such as skin, for example, the face, neck, or lips, scalp, and hair. The composition according to the present invention has a cosmetic effect, in particular as an anti-aging, whitening, and / or anti-wrinkle effect on keratinous substances.

[0037] The composition according to the present invention exhibits a stable form as a dispersion. In other words, each of the dispersed phases is well dispersed in the composition without precipitation or floating. In particular, the composition according to the present invention exhibits a stable form of dispersion over time even at a high temperature, such as 55 °C. In other words, each of the dispersed phases is well dispersed in the composition without precipitation or floating over time, even at a high temperature, such as 55 °C.

[0038] The composition according to the present invention can maintain the (a) retinoid within at a sufficient residual rate (such as 75% or more) even under exposure to light (e.g., UV rays) and high temperature (e.g., 55°C). In other words, the degradation of the (a) retinoid in the composition according to the present invention due to light and high temperature can be reduced. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide long-lasting, stable cosmetic effects based on the (a) retinoid in the composition.

[0039] The composition according to the present invention may be transparent or translucent.

[0040] Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (turbidity can, for example, be measured with a 2100Q incandescent lamp (marketed by Hach Company) equipped with a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm high) and a tungsten filament lamp capable of emitting visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably from 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be carried out on the undiluted composition. The blank test can be evaluated with distilled water.

[0041] The composition according to the present invention may preferably have a turbidity of less than 200 NTU, preferably less than 150 NTU, better still less than 100 NTU, and even better still less than 50 NTU.

[0042] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one retinoid; (b) at least one compound that is capable of providing a solution of the same with a transmittance of 10% or less for light with a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm, along an optical path length of 10 mm, the concentration of the compound in the solution being 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution; (c) at least one hydrophilic antioxidant other than ingredient (b) and (d) at least one cationic polymer.

[0043] The ingredients of the composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below.

[0044] (Retinoid)

[0045] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one retinoid. Two (a) or more retinoids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of retinoid or a combination of different types of retinoids may be used.

[0046] The (a) retinoid may be retinol (vitamin A), retinal (vitamin A aldehyde), retinoic acid (vitamin A acid), or an ester of retinol and a C2 20- acid such as retinol propionate, acetate, linoleate or palmitate (retinol palmitate).

[0047] Among (a) retinoids, particular reference may be made to retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, in particular all-trans retinoic acid and 13-cis retinoic acid, retinol derivatives, such as retinyl acetate, propionate or palmitate, and the retinoids described in the following patent applications: FR 2 370 377, EP 0 199 636, EP 0 325 540 and EP 0 402 072:

[0048] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, (a) retinoid is retinol or proretinol.

[0049] The term “retinol” refers to all isomers of retinol, i.e. any trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11-cis retinol, 9-cis retinol and 3,3.4-didehydro retinol.

[0050] As a representative of pro-retinol, one can in particular mention retinyl palmitate.

[0051] It is preferable that the (a) retinoid be retinol.

[0052] The amount of (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, better still, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Furthermore, the quantity of the retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less and, even better, 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] The quantity of the (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] In the context of this descriptive memorandum, any combination of the above upper and lower limit values ​​may be available to represent the preferred range of parameters, such as quantity.

[0056] (Light-protecting compound)

[0057] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one compound capable of providing a solution with a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less and, even better, 2% or less, for light with a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm, along an optical path length of 10 mm, wherein the concentration of compound (b) in the solution is 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution. Thus, a single type of compound (b) or a combination of different types of compounds (b) may be used.

[0058] Compound (b) can provide a low light transmission factor. Therefore, compound (b) can be designated as a light-shielding compound.

[0059] Compound (b) may be present in the continuous phase of the present invention.

[0060] It is more preferable that compound (b) be capable of providing a solution with a zero transmittance (0) for light of a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm over an optical path length of 10 mm, the concentration of compound (b) in the solution being 0.9 wt% relative to the total weight of the solution.

[0061] It is even more preferable that the compound (b) be able to provide a solution with zero transmittance (0) for light of a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm over an optical path length of 10 mm, the concentration of the compound (b) in the solution being greater than 0.1 wt% relative to the total weight of the solution.

[0062] The solvent for the solution is not limited as long as compound (b) is solubilized in the solvent and the solvent has no absorbance for light with a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm. For example, water and hydrophilic solvents such as ethanol can be used as solvents.

[0063] Transmittance can be measured by a spectrophotometer, for example a JASCO Corp. V-750 UV-Visible / NIR spectrophotometer.

[0064] The compound (b) can provide a solution with a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, better still 2% or less, and even better still 0% for any light with a wavelength from 290 to 420 nm along a 10 mm optical path. In other words, the solution of compound (b) can reduce or shield any light with a wavelength between 290 nm and 420 nm.

[0065] Compound (b) can reduce or shield light with the above-mentioned specific wavelength that could reach (a) the retinoid in the composition according to the present invention and cause the decomposition of (a) the retinoid. Therefore, compound (b) can help improve the photostability of (a) the retinoid and can reduce the decomposition of (a) the retinoid in the composition according to the present invention.

[0066] Compound (b) can be selected from polyphenols.

[0067] - Polyphenol

[0068] The term "polyphenol" refers to a compound containing a plurality of phenolic hydroxyl groups. A phenolic hydroxyl group is defined as a hydroxyl group bonded to an aromatic ring such as a benzene ring or a naphthalene ring. The phenolic hydroxyl group may optionally be etherified or esterified.

[0069] The polyphenol can be chosen from those which have antioxidant activity.

[0070] The polyphenol can be chosen, for example, from among the flavonoids.

[0071] Preferred flavonoids may correspond to the general formula (I):

[0072] in which

[0073] A", B", C" and D", independently of each other, represent H, OH, -R' or -OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar with the formula R'OH;

[0074] E" represents H, -OH or -OX', where X' represents: ..OH /

[0075] F", G", and J" independently represent H, -OH, or -OCH3; and

[0076] Xi represents -CH2-, -CO- or -CHOH-, or the general formula (II):

[0077] where

[0078] A', C and D', independently of each other, represent H, -OH, -OCH3, -R' or - OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar with the formula R'OH;

[0079] E' represents H, -OH or -OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar of formula R'OH and

[0080] B', F', G' and J', independently of each other, represent H, -OH, -OCH-OCH2- CH2-OH, or -OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar with the formula R'OH.

[0081] Rutinose, glucose, apiose, rhamnose, robinose, neohesperidose or a combination thereof may be mentioned among the R'OH sugars.

[0082] The compounds of formulas (I) and (II) are known. They can be obtained in particular by the processes described in "The Flavonoids", Harbome JB, Mabry TJ, Helga Mabry, 1975, pages 1 to 45.

[0083] Flavonoids can be selected from flavones, flavonols, isoflavones, flavanols, flavanones, anthocyanidins and mixtures thereof.

[0084] Among the flavonoids that can be used for the present invention, the following may be mentioned: apigenin, apierin, apigetrin, vitexin, chrysin, toringin, luteolin, orientin, galangin, quercetin, isoquercetin, rutin, glucosylrutin, quercitrin, isoquercitrin, kaempfoline, astragalin, kaempferitrin, robinin, myricetin, daidzein, daidzin, genistein, glycitein, glycitin, catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, theflavin, the naringenin, narirutin, naringin, hesperetin, hesperidin, glucosylheperidin, anthocyanin, anthocyanidin, cyanidin, delphinidin, delphinin, pelargonidin, and pelargonin.

[0085] Some polyphenols that can be used are present in plants from which they can be extracted using known methods. Extracts of tea leaves (Camellia sinensis or Camellia japonica) can be used. In particular, mention will be made of green tea extracts marketed under the name SUNPHENON® by Taiyo, which notably contain flavonoids.

[0086] As a polyphenol, it is possible to use a mixture of glucosylrutin and rutin marketed under the name ALPHA GLUCOSYL RUTIN by the company QINGDAO TAITONG PHARMACEUTICAL.

[0087] Among the polyphenols that can be used, mention should also be made of polyphenols such as carnosic acid and camosol which can be extracted, for example, from rosemary, either by extraction followed by distillation (Chang et al., JOSC, Vol. 61, no. 6 June 1984) or by extraction using a polar solvent such as ethanol preceded by extraction using a non-polar solvent such as hexane to remove odorous substances, as described in EP-A-307,626.

[0088] The polyphenol can also be selected from (2,5-dihydroxyphenyl)alkylenecarboxylic acids of formula (III) and their derivatives (in particular esters and amides): GH (ni) I CB

[0089] where

[0090] Ri" represents -O-Alk, OH or -N(r')(r), Alk designating a linear or branched Ci-C2o alkyl, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or alkoxy groups, or a C2-C2o alkenyl,

[0091] r' and r" independently represent H, C1-C2O alkyl, C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C3-C6 polyhydroxyalkyl, or r' and r" form, with a nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle,

[0092] r is a number, including zero, such that the chain -(CH2)r-CORi contains a maximum of 21 carbon atoms and

[0093] R2" and R3" independently represent H or an alkyl in CrC4 R2" which can be besides representing an alkoxy in Ci-C4.

[0094] The compounds of formula (III) are known or can be prepared according to known methods, for example analogous to those described in patents FR-2,400,358 and FR-2,400,359.

[0095] The polyphenol can also be selected from caffeic acid esters or amides.

[0096] Among the caffeic acid esters, the following may be mentioned in particular: compounds of formula (IV): (IV)

[0097] where

[0098] Z represents an alkyl in CrC8, for example methyl or the residue of a phytol.

[0099] Among the caffeic acid amides, the following compounds of formula (V) may be mentioned in particular: 0 (V)

[0100] where

[0101] Z' represents an alkyl in CrC8, in particular in C6-C8.

[0102] The compounds of formula (IV) or (V) are known or can be prepared according to known methods.

[0103] Compound (b) may be selected from the group consisting of the following:

[0104] quercetin, isoquercetin, rutin, glucosylrutin and a mixture thereof.

[0105] The quantity of the (b) betaine compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, better still, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Furthermore, the quantity of compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less and, even better, 2% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] The quantity of (b) compound in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] (Hydrophilic antioxidant agent)

[0109] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one hydrophilic antioxidant agent other than ingredient (b). Only one type of hydrophilic antioxidant agent may be used, but two or more different types of hydrophilic antioxidant agents may be used in combination.

[0110] (c) at least one hydrophilic antioxidant agent is different from compound (b), which is capable of providing a solution thereof with a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less and, better still, 2% or less, for light with a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm, along an optical path of 10 mm, the concentration of the compound in the solution being 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution.

[0111] The hydrophilic antioxidant agent (c) may be present in the continuous phase of the present invention.

[0112] The term “antioxidant” here refers to a chemical compound, enzyme, or other organic molecule that prevents free radicals from causing the oxidation of molecules such as those found in keratinous substances. The antioxidant, by reacting with the oxidant, can protect these molecules from damage.

[0113] The antioxidant agent (c) is hydrophilic. The term "hydrophilic" here refers to a substance soluble in water. The expression "soluble in water" here refers to a substance that can dissolve in an amount of 0.1 g or more, 1 g or more, or 10 g or more in 100 mL of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0114] Hydrophilic antioxidant agents can be chosen from natural and synthetic antioxidant agents, and preferably natural antioxidant agents.

[0115] Examples of (c) the hydrophilic antioxidant include, without limitation, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, hydroxyacetophenone, dihydrochalone, zinc PCA, baicalin, ferulic acid, pine bark extract, and polydatin. Preferably, the hydrophilic antioxidant (c) is selected from natural antioxidants, such as ascorbic acid, dihydrochalone, baicalin, ferulic acid, pine bark extract, and polydatin.

[0116] Ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin C, is a cosmetically active ingredient. Ascorbic acids are used as anti-aging, whitening, and / or anti-wrinkle ingredients on keratinous substances, particularly the skin, because they stimulate collagen synthesis and reduce melanin. Ascorbic acid usually refers to L-ascorbic acid.

[0117] Ascorbic acid is preferably L-ascorbic acid or vitamin C. Its structure is represented by the following formula.

[0118] The ascorbic acid derivative may be a salt of ascorbic acid. The ascorbic acid salt is preferably a pharmaceutically acceptable salt. Salts of ascorbic acid ascorbic include, but are not limited to, salts with an organic base (e.g., salts with a tertiary amine such as trimethylamine salts, triethylamine salts, monoethanolamine salts, triethanolamine salts and pyridine salts, basic ammonium salts such as arginine, and the like), salts with an inorganic base (e.g., alkali metal salts such as ammonium salts, sodium salts and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salts and magnesium salts, aluminum salts, etc.) and the like.

[0119] Because of its chemical structure (α-keto lactone) which makes it very sensitive to certain environmental parameters such as light, heat and aqueous media, it may be advantageous to use an ascorbic acid derivative in the form of an ascorbic acid saccharide ester or a phosphorylated ascorbic acid metal salt.

[0120] The saccharide esters of ascorbic acid usable in the present invention include, in particular, glycosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, galactosyl, N-acetylglucosamine, and N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-OaD glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid or 6-OD galactopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid. These latter compounds and preparation methods are described in particular in documents EP-A-487 404, EP-A-425 066, and J-05 213 736.

[0121] As regards the metallic salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid, it can be chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

[0122] It may be preferable that the ascorbic acid derivatives be chosen from the salts of ascorbic acid or phosphorylated ascorbic acid, such as, in particular, sodium ascorbate, sodium or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, acetic acid ester of ascorbic acid, or sugar esters of ascorbic acid, including saccharide esters and, in particular, such as glycosylic ascorbic acid.

[0123] In a preferred embodiment, the antioxidant agent (c) is selected from ascorbic acid, its salts and their combination.

[0124] The amount of the (c) hydrophilic antioxidant agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] Furthermore, the quantity of hydrophilic antioxidant agent(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less and, even better, 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0126] The quantity of hydrophilic antioxidant agent(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 5% and 20% by weight and, even better, between 10% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] (Cationic polymer)

[0128] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one cationic polymer. Only one type of cationic polymer may be used, but two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination.

[0129] The (d) cationic polymer may be present in the continuous phase of the present invention.

[0130] A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the cationic polymer can be between 0.01 meq / g and 20 meq / g, preferably between 0.05 and 15 meq / g and, even better, between 0.1 and 10 meq / g.

[0131] The molecular weight of the cationic polymer may be 1000 or more, preferably 50000 or more, better still 100000 or more, and even better still 1000000 or more.

[0132] Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means an average molecular weight number.

[0133] The cationic polymer may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged fraction selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group and a pyridyl group. The term "amino group" (main) here refers to a -NH2 group.

[0134] The cationic polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. By "copolymer" is meant both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0135] The cationic polymer can be chosen from natural and synthetic cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers are as follows.

[0136] (1) Homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic esters and amides or methacrylics and comprising at least one motif chosen from the motifs of the following formulas:

[0137] where:

[0138] Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl groups comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl and ethyl groups;

[0139] R3, which may be identical or different, is chosen from hydrogen and CH3;

[0140] the symbols A, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example from 2 to 3 carbon atoms and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0141] R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups alkyl comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and benzyl groups, and in at least one embodiment, alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and

[0142] X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methosulfate unions and halides, for example chloride and bromide.

[0143] The copolymers of family (1) may also comprise at least one motif derived from comonomers which may be selected from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with (C1-C4) lower alkyl groups, groups derivatives of acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam and vinyl esters.

[0144] Here are some examples of copolymers from family (1):

[0145] copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide,

[0146] copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in European Patent Application No. 0 080 976,

[0147] copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate,

[0148] quaternized or non-quaternized methacrylate or vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate copolymers, described, for example, in French Patents No. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,

[0149] dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers,

[0150] vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers and

[0151] crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing an olefinic unsaturation, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.

[0152] (2) Polymers comprising piperazinyl units and alkylene groups or divalent hydroxyalkylene comprising straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with at least one entity selected from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, aromatic and heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.

[0153] (3) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared, for example, by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides being optionally crosslinked with an entity selected from among the epihalohydrins; diepoxides; dianhydrides; unsaturated dianhydrides; biunsaturated derivatives; bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums; bishaloacyidiamines; bisalkyl halides; oligomers resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound that is reactive with an entity selected from among the bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums, bishaloacyidiamines, bisalkyl halides; epihalohydrins; Dihydroxides and bisunsaturate derivatives; the crosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of polyaminoamides; these polyaminoamides being optionally alkylated or, if they comprise at least one tertiary amine function, they may be quaternized. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.

[0154] (4) Polyamino-amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyamines of polyalkylene with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents, for example, adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, and propyl groups, and the alkylene group comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as an ethylene group. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent No. 1,583,363. In at least one embodiment, these derivatives may be selected from adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine polymers.

[0155] (5) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyamine polyalkylene comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids comprising 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio of the polyalkylene polyamine to the dicarboxylic acid may vary from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; the resulting polyamino amide from this reaction with epichlorohydrin has a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. These polymers are described, for example, in US Patent Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

[0156] (6) Alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallyl- cyclopolymers ammonium, such as homopolymers and copolymers comprising, as the main constituent of the chain, at least one motif selected from the motifs of formulas (la) and (Ib): (there)

[0157] where:

[0158] k and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1;

[0159] Rn is chosen from among the hydrogen and methyl groups;

[0160] Rio and Rlb, which may be identical or different, are selected from alkyl groups comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups in which the alkyl group comprises, for example, 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and lower amidoalkyl groups (C1-C4), or Rio and Ru may form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl and morpholinyl and

[0161] Y' is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate and phosphate. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent No. 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406.

[0162] In one embodiment, R10 and Ru, which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0163] Among these polymers, we can mention, in particular, (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride such as the dimethylidiethylammonium chloride homopolymer marketed under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by the company CALGON (and its low weight average molecular mass homologues) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide marketed under the name "MERQUAT® 550".

[0164] Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (II):

[0165] where:

[0166] Rn, Ru, R15 and Ri6, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the aliphatic, alicyclic and aliphatic aryl groups comprising from 1 to 20 atoms of carbon and lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic groups, or Rn, Ru, R[5 and Ri6, together or separately, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles alternatively comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or Rn, RM, R[5, and R[6 which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl groups substituted by at least one group selected from alkyl groups, ester groups, acyl groups, amide groups, -CO-O-Rp-E groups and -CO-NH-Rp-E groups, where Rn is an alkylene group and E is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0167] Ai and Bb, which may be identical or different, are selected from polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may include, bonded or intercalated in the main chain, at least one entity selected from aromatic rings, oxygen, sulfur, sulfoxide groups, sulfone groups, disulfide groups, amino groups, alkylamino groups, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium groups, ureido groups, amide groups and ester groups, and

[0168] X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;

[0169] it being understood that Ab Rn and Ri5 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine cycle;

[0170] If Ai is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, Bi can be chosen from:

[0171] -(CH2)n-CO-E'-OC-(CH2)n-

[0172] where E' is chosen from:

[0173] a) glycolic residues of formula -OZO-, where Z is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon groups and groups of the following formulas:

[0174] -(CH2-CH2-O)X-CH2-CH2-

[0175] -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-

[0176] where x and y, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers from 1 to 4, which represent a defined and unique degree of polymerization, and numbers from 1 to 4, which represent an average degree of polymerization;

[0177] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as piperazine derivatives;

[0178] c) bis-primary diamine residues of formula -NH-Y-NH-, wherein Y is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon groups and the divalent group -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-CH2-. and

[0179] d) ureylene groups of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0180] In at least one embodiment, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

[0181] Polymers of this type are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,320,330; 2,270,846; 2,316,271; 2,336,434; and 2,413,907 and in US patents Nos. 2,273,780; 2,375,853; 2,388,614; 2,454,547; 3,206,462; 2,261,002; 2,271,378; 3,874,870; 4,001,432; 3,929,990; 3,966,904; 4,005,193; 4,025,617; 4,025,627; 4,025,653; 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.

[0182] Non-limiting examples of these polymers include those comprising at least one repeating motif of formula (III): (III)

[0183] Where

[0184] Rn, Ru, Rn and R[6, which may be identical or different, are selected from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p, which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 20, and X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

[0185] (7) polyquaterary ammonium polymers comprising formula motifs (IV): X- One (IV)

[0186] where:

[0187] Ri8, R19, R2o and R2i, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl, -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)POH groups, where p is chosen from integers between 0 and 6, provided that R[8, R[9, R20 and R2[ are not simultaneously hydrogen,

[0188] r and s, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 6,

[0189] q is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 34,

[0190] - X denotes an anion, such as a halide and

[0191] A is chosen from among the radicals of dihalides and -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0192] These compounds are described, for example, in European patent application No. 0 122 324.

[0193] (8) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

[0194] Other examples of suitable cationic polymers include, in particular, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising motifs selected from vinylpyridine and vinylpyridinium, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

[0195] According to one embodiment of the present invention, at least one cationic polymer is selected from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as the products marketed under the name "JR 400" by UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymers, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers and copolymers marketed under the names MERQUAT® 100, MERQUAT® 550, and MERQUAT® S by CALGON, guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt, and quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

[0196] (9) Polyamines

[0197] As a cationic polymer, it is also possible to use (co)polyamines, which can be homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups. The amino group can be a primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amino group. The amino group can be present in the backbone of a polymer or in a pendant group, if present, of the (co)polyamines.

[0198] Examples of (co)polyamines include chitosan, (co)polylamines, (co)polyvinylamines, (co)polyanilines, (co)polyvinylimidazoles, (co)polydimethylaminoethylene methacrylates, (co)polyvinylpyridines such as (co)poly-l-methyl-2-vinylpyridines, (co)polyimines such as (co)polyimines, (co)polypyridines such as (co)poly(quaternary pyridines), (co)polybiguanides such as (co)polyaminopropyl biguanides, (co)polylysines, (co)polyornithines, (co)polyarginines, (co)polyhistidines, aminodextrans, aminocelluloses, amino(co)polyvinylacetals and their salts.

[0199] As with (co)polyamines, it is preferable to use (co)polylysines. Polylysine is well known. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine can be e-Poly-L-lysine, commonly used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water, propylene glycol, and glycerol. Polylysine is available It is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. Polylysine can be found as a salt and / or a solution.

[0200] (10) Cationic amino acids

[0201] As a cationic polymer, it may be possible to use cationic polyamino acids, which may be homopolymers or cationic copolymers, with a plurality of amino and carboxyl groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in the backbone of a polymer or in a pendant group, if present, of the cationic polyamino acids. The carboxyl group may be present in a pendant group, if present, of the cationic polyamino acids.

[0202] Examples of cationic polyamino acids include cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydrolyzed wheat protein hydroxypropyl steardimonium, hydrolyzed wheat protein hydroxypropyl cocodimonium, hydrolyzed conchiolin protein hydroxypropyltrimonium, hydrolyzed soy protein hydroxypropyl steardimonium, hydrolyzed soy protein hydroxypropyltrimonium, hydrolyzed soy protein cocodimonium and the like.

[0203] It may be preferable that the cationic polymer be selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines, (co)polyamine cationic acids such as cationized collagen and their salts.

[0204] (11) Cationic polysaccharides.

[0205] The (d) cationic polymer of the present invention may preferably be selected from the cationic polysaccharide.

[0206] The charge density of the cationic polysaccharide can be between 0.01 meq / g and 20 meq / g, preferably between 0.05 and 15 meq / g and, even better, between 0.1 and 10 meq / g.

[0207] The molecular weight of the cationic polysaccharide may be 1,000 or more, preferably 50,000 or more, better still 100,000 or more, and even better still 1,000,000 or more.

[0208] Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means an average molecular weight number.

[0209] The cationic polymer may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged fraction selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary, or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group, and a pyridyl group. The (principal) term "amino group" here means the -NH2 group. It is preferable that the cationic polysaccharide has at least one quaternary ammonium group.

[0210] The cationic polysaccharide can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. By "copolymer" is meant both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0211] The cationic polysaccharide can be selected from natural and synthetic cationic polysaccharides.

[0212] It is preferable that the cationic polysaccharide be chosen from among cationic cellulosic polymers.

[0213] According to the present invention, a "cationic cellulosic polymer" means any non-siliconized cellulosic polymer (containing no silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups into cationic groups and, preferably, not containing anionic groups and / or ionizable groups into anionic groups.

[0214] The term "cellulosic" polymer according to the invention designates any polysaccharide compound having in its structure at least 20 chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] linkages. The cellulosic polymer may be associative, that is to say, have in its structure at least one fat chain in C8-C30.

[0215] The usable cationic cellulosic polymers preferably have a weight average molecular weight (Mw) between approximately 5000 and 5.106, preferably between approximately 103 and 3.106.

[0216] The following are non-limiting examples of cationic cellulosic polymers.

[0217] (10-1) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups described, for example, in French patent No. 1,492,597, such as the polymers marketed under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[0218] (10-2) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulosic copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and described, for example, in US Patent No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted with, for example, a salt selected from the salts of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and dimethyldiallylammonium. The corresponding commercial products polymers include, for example, products marketed under the names "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by the company National Starch.

[0219] (10-3) Cationic cellulosic polymers having at least one group quaternary ammonium comprising at least one fatty chain.

[0220] The fatty chain of quaternized celluloses modified by groups including at least one linear fatty chain may be a linear alkyl, a linear or branched arylalkyl, a linear alkylaryl, preferably a linear alkyl, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 10 to 24, or 10 to 14, carbon atoms or mixtures thereof.

[0221] Preferably, quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups including at least one linear fatty chain may be cited, such as linear alkyl, linear arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 10 to 24, or 10 to 14, carbon atoms or mixtures thereof.

[0222] Preferably, hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) may be cited:

[0223] where: • R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q- in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen or linear, Cl-C30, alkyl atom, preferably an alkyl and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like chloride or bromide; • R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q'- in which R'a, R'b, R'c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or linear, C1-C30, alkyl, preferably an alkyl and Q'- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b and R'c represents a linear alkyl in C8 to C30; • n, x and y, which can be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10,000.

[0224] Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear alkyl group in the C8-C30 range; preferably in the C10-C24 range, or in the C10-C14 range; the dodecyl radical (C12) may be mentioned in particular. Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear alkyl group in the C1-C4 range, in particular the methyl group.

[0225] Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear alkyl group in the C8-C30 range; preferably in the C10-C24 or C10-C14 range; the dodecyl radical (Cl2) is a notable example. Preferably, all other radicals represent a linear alkyl group in the C1-C4 range, in particular the methyl group.

[0226] Better still, R can be chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q' and -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q', preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'

[0227] better still, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'.

[0228] The percentage of nitrogen can vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight and, even better, from 0.5 to 3% by weight.

[0229] Examples include polymers with the following INCI names: • Polyquatemium-24, such as the QUATRISOFT LM 200® product, marketed by AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL; • PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®; • PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QL®; and • PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C18 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QS®, marketed by the company CRODA.

[0230] Other examples include hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R representing a trimethylammonium chloride C1-,(CH3)3N+- and R' representing a dimethyldodecylammonium chloride C1-,(CH3)2(C12H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known by the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; commercial products include SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-1300X, from AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL.

[0231] More specifically, the cationic cellulosic polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses that have reacted with a trimethylammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethylammonium epoxide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-67). It is preferably marketed under the name Softcat Polymer SL-100 or Softcat Polymer SX-1300X by Amerchol.

[0232] (10-4) Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides may be selected from cationic gums, in particular cationic galactomannan gums (cationic guar), cationic starches, cationic hyaluronic acid, chitosans and dextran hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride.

[0233] The term “cationic galactomannan gum” means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and / or ionizable into cationic groups.

[0234] Galactomannans are polysaccharides essentially composed of galactose and mannose units, in which the mannose units are linked by a 1,4-glycoside bond and the galactose branching occurs via a 1,6-bridge to the mannose units. Each ring of galactose or mannose units (or sugar units) has three free hydroxyl groups available for the chemical reaction. Galactomannans are generally found in the endosperm of legume grains such as guar or carob.

[0235] Preferred cationic groups are chosen from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups.

[0236] The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have an average molecular weight of between about 500 and 5x06, and preferably between about 103 and 3x06.

[0237] The galactomannan groups that can be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising trialkyl (Ci-C4) ammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups.

[0238] Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups can be mentioned in particular.

[0239] Better still, these groups represent 5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

[0240] Gums can, for example, be selected from the group consisting of guar gum, cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum and acacia gum.

[0241] These galactomannan gums, derived in particular from guar modified by cationic groups, are products already known as such and are, for example, described in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307.

[0242] According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum including hydroxypropyl trialkylammonium groups, or even better, a guar gum including hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium groups, that is- that is to say, a guar gum modified for example by 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride.

[0243] These galactomannan gums, derived in particular from guar modified by cationic groups, are products already known as such and are, for example, described in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307. In addition, these products are marketed in particular under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride) by Rhodiadia, under the name Amilan® Guar (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride) by Degussa and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride) by Aqualon. Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, which is derived from a hydroxypropyl of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, is commercially available under the Jaguar™ brand of Rhodia Inc. and the Rhodia Inc. brand of trade names.Cassia's hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is commercially available under the brand names Sensomer™ CT-250 and Sensomer™ CT-400 from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. or ClearHanceTM ™ from Ashland Inc. .

[0244] Examples of cationic starches include starches modified with a salt of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (ex: chloride), such as the product called starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride according to the INC1 nomenclature and marketed under the name SENSOMER Cl-50 of Ondeo or Pencare™ DP 1015 of Ingredion.

[0245] In the preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (d) cationic polymer is chosen from cationic polysaccharides, preferably non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides, even better cationic gums, in particular cationic galactomannan gums.

[0246] The amount of the cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, even better, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0247] Furthermore, the quantity of the (d) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and, even better, 2% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0248] The quantity of the (d) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Dispersed phase

[0249] The composition according to the present invention comprises a plurality of dispersed phases: Each of the dispersed phases is well dispersed in the composition without precipitation or flotation. Furthermore, the dispersion composition according to the present invention is not an emulsion, since the dispersed phase of the present invention is not droplets of oil, water, and the like.

[0250] The shape of the dispersed phase is not particularly limited. The dispersed phase can be of any shape, plate-like, spherical or oblong, regardless of the crystallographic form (for example, lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).

[0251] The size of the dispersed phase is not particularly limited. For example, the primary number-average size of the dispersed phase ranges from 5 nm to 10 mm, preferably from 10 nm to 5 mm.

[0252] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "primary particle size" refers to the maximum dimension that can be measured between two diametrically opposite points on an individual particle. "Number-average size" means the diameter given by the statistical particle size distribution at half the population, referred to as D50. The size of the dispersed phase can be measured by observing a scanning electron microscope (SEM), a transmission electron microscope (TEM), an optical microscope, or a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer.

[0253] The dispersed phase of the present invention may comprise or consist of inorganic capsules or fillers. The term "filler" should be understood as meaning mineral or natural particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

[0254] In a preferred embodiment, the dispersed phase is insoluble in water or retains its form in water, since the continuous phase can be a continuous aqueous phase in a preferred embodiment. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "insoluble in water" herein refers to materials that are soluble in water at a concentration of less than 0.1% by weight, in particular less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of water at ambient temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa). Capsule

[0255] The term "capsule" here refers to a particle or sphere comprising a core, also called the "inner core", surrounded by a coating consisting of one or more layers or films, also called the "outer layer". The shell may comprise one, two, or more layers.

[0256] The shape of the capsule is not limited. For example, the capsule can take the shape of a sphere.

[0257] It is preferable that the capsule comprise a core and at least one shell surrounding the core.

[0258] The number of layers or films in the shell is not limited, but it may be preferable for the shell to include one layer or film.

[0259] In one embodiment of the present invention, the shell may comprise at least one polysaccharide other than (d) the cationic polymer. In other words, the layer or film in the shell may be formed with at least one polysaccharide other than (d) the cationic polymer.

[0260] The capsule can be prepared by surrounding a core, which can be produced by any conventional process. For example, it is possible to co-extrude a core-forming composition and a shell-forming composition. In this case, the excluded core-forming composition can form a core, while the other core-forming composition can form a shell. The co-extruded core / shell structure can be transformed into a core / shell particle that corresponds to the capsule.

[0261] The size of the capsule is not particularly limited. For example, the average primary number size of the capsule ranges from 100 µm to 10 mm, preferably from 250 µm to 7 mm, better still from 500 µm to 5 mm, even better still from 750 µm to 3 mm, and in particular from 1 mm to 2 mm. Inorganic fillers

[0262] The inorganic fillers may preferably be chosen from inorganic UV filter powder and inorganic colouring fillers. • Inorganic UV filter powder

[0263] The inorganic UV filter powder used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region, preferably in the UV-B region or in both the UV-A and UV-B regions. The powdered cosmetic composition according to the present invention may include an additional UV filter other than the inorganic UV filter powder. Preferably, the active UV filtration area of ​​the inorganic UV filter powder and that of the additional UV filter should be complementary to each other in order to provide complete UV protection. For example, it is preferable that the inorganic UV filter powder be active at least in the UV-B region and that the additional UV filter be active at least in the UV-A region. The inorganic UV filter powder may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic.

[0264] The inorganic powder of the UV filter may be in the form of a fine particle having an average primary particle size of less than 200 nm, preferably less than 180 nm and, even better, from 5 nm to 180 nm, and even better still 5 nm to 150 nm, and even better from 10 nm to 100 nm. The term primary average particle size used here represents a number-average diameter given by the statistical particle size distribution at half the population, denoted by D50. For example, such a number-average diameter of inorganic UV filter powder can be measured by SEM (scanning electron microscopy) and / or TEM (transmission electron microscopy).

[0265] The inorganic UV filter powder can be selected from metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide (amorphous or crystalline in rutile and / or anatase form), zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, or cerium oxide, all of which are well-known UV photoprotective agents. Preferably, the inorganic UV filter powder is selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and cerium oxide.

[0266] The inorganic UV filter powder may be coated or uncoated. The coating is not particularly limited and any conventional coating may be used. For example, the coating may include at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or salts thereof (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters and (per)fluorinated compounds. • inorganic dye charges

[0267] The term "inorganic colorant charge" herein should be understood as encompassing inorganic pigments, nacres, reflective particles, and mixtures thereof.

[0268] The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or colored particles of any shape, which are insoluble in a physiological medium and which are intended to color the composition.

[0269] Among the pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, such as rutile type titanium dioxide pigment, possibly surface treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metallic powders, for example aluminium powder and copper powder.

[0270] The term “mother-of-pearl” should be understood as meaning colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, produced in particular by certain molluscs in their shell, or synthesized alternatively, and which have a color effect by optical interference.

[0271] Examples of nacres that can be mentioned include pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with oxychloride of Bismuth, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride are all examples of pearlescent pigments. They can also consist of mica particles whose surface is coated with at least two successive layers of metallic oxides and / or organic colorants. Pearlescent pigments can be yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper, or have a glossy finish.

[0272] The term “reflective particles” refers to particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) from which they are made, as well as their physical and chemical nature and surface condition, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, be of sufficient intensity to create, on the surface of the composition or mixture, when applied to the substrate to be produced, points of over-luminosity visible to the naked eye, namely: brighter points that contrast with their surroundings, appearing to sparkle.

[0273] Reflective particles can be chosen so as not to significantly alter the colouring effect generated by the dyes with which they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of colourimetric yield.

[0274] Reflective particles, whatever their shape, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, may have, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.

[0275] When reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they can be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular synthetically obtained titanium or iron oxides.

[0276] When reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may comprise, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially covered with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metallic or metallized material. The substrate may consist of one or more organic and / or inorganic materials.

[0277] More particularly, it may be selected from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list not being exhaustive.

[0278] The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or a metallic material.

[0279] Again, as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate covered with a layer of metal, one can also mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.

[0280] Particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, manganese, steel, bronze or titanium may also be used, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide or silicon oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0281] In certain specific embodiments of the present invention, the dispersed phases comprise or consist of at least one capsule.

[0282] In other specific embodiments, the (a) retinoid is present within the capsule. For example, the core of the capsule may comprise the (a) retinoid. Encapsulation of the (a) retinoid may prevent or reduce contact of the (a) retinoid with (c) at least one hydrophilic antioxidant, such as ascorbic acid, and may be able to reduce the color change (in particular, brightness) of the composition according to the present invention. Thus, the capsule may be able to reduce the color change of the composition according to the present invention.

[0283] In some embodiments, the essential ingredients (b) to (d) are present in the continuous phase of the composition.

[0284] The quantity of the polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more and, better still, 3% by weight or more, and even better still 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0285] Furthermore, the quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight, better still less than or equal to 15% by weight, or even better still less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0286] The quantity of polyhydric alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight and, better still, from 3% to 15% by weight, and even better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Continuous phase

[0287] The continuous phase can be a dispersing medium for the plurality of dispersed phases of the present invention. Thus, the continuous phase can take the form of a liquid at 25 °C and under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0288] The form of the continuous phase is not particularly limited. In general, the continuous phase is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa). The continuous phase can take various forms, such as a solution, an aqueous solution, a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a liquid gel, a paste, serum, suspension, dispersion, fluid, milk, emulsion (O / W or W / O form), or similar.

[0289] Preferably, the continuous phase of the present invention may be a continuous aqueous phase. In another preferred embodiment, the continuous phase may be an aqueous solution.

[0290] In certain specific embodiments of the present invention, the continuous phase of the present invention comprises a small amount of oils or is free of oils. For example, the continuous phase may comprise oils in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 3% by weight, even better from 0% to 1% by weight, in particular from 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the continuous phase. In another embodiment, the continuous phase is free of oils.

[0291] The viscosity of the continuous phase in the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, but in general, it can range, for example, from 4,000 to 8,000 Pa·s at 25 °C. For the purposes of the present invention, the viscosity can be measured at 25 °C using viscometers or rheometers, preferably with a cone-plane or parallel-plane geometry.

[0292] (Optional ingredients)

[0293] The dispersed phases and the continuous phase in the composition may include optional ingredients in addition to the essential ingredients (a) to (d) as explained above. • Oil

[0294] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil. Two or more (b) oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0295] The term "oil" here means a compound or fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0296] The oil may be present in the dispersed phases. In one embodiment, the dispersed phases include at least one oil.

[0297] The oil can be chosen from polar or non-polar oils.

[0298] The term "polar oil" here refers to any lipophilic compound having, at 25 °C, a solubility parameter ôd characteristic of dispersive interactions greater than 16 and a solubility parameter ôp characteristic of polar interactions strictly greater than 0. The solubility parameters ôd and ôp are defined according to the Hansen classification.

[0299] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

[0300] According to this Hansen space:

[0301] ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular impacts;

[0302] ôh characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

[0303] ôh characterizes specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);

[0304] ôa is determined by the equation: ôa=(ôp2+ôh1)1 / 2. The parameters ôp, ôh, ôd and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)1 / 2.

[0305] It may be preferable for the polar oil to be chosen from the group consisting of vegetable or animal oils, such as triglycerides, ester oils, ether oils and mixtures thereof, better still from the group consisting of ester oils, ether oils and mixtures thereof, and even better still from ester oils.

[0306] Polar oil may be chosen in particular from the following oils: • polar hydrocarbon oils such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters and glycerol, in particular those whose fatty acids can have a chain length from C4 to C36, and in particular from C[8 to C36, these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;These oils may include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil (820.6 g / mol), corn oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, or rosehip oil; shea butter; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those marketed by Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel; synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atony, such as dicaprylyl ether; hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate and palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate,neopentanic acid esters, for example isodecyl neopentanate, isotridecyl neopentanate, isostearyl neopentanate and 2-octyldodecyl neopentanate; isononanoic acid esters, for example isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate; oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanate, isostearyl behenate and myristyle myristate; polyesters obtained by condensation of a dimer and / or trimer of an unsaturated fatty acid and a diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this regard, we can mention the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and dimeric diacids, and their esters, such as ISDA Hailuscent; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for example dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetrastearate; Fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol, higher fatty acids in C12-C22, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid and their mixtures; • fatty acids containing 12 to 26 carbon atony, for example oleic acid; • dialkyl carbonates, where the two alkyl chains may be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name CETIOL CC® by Cognis and • non-volatile oils with a high molecular weight, for example between 400 and 10,000 g / mol, particularly between 650 and 10,000 g / mol, for example:

[0307] i) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 marketed or manufactured by ISP (MW=7300 g / mol),

[0308] ii) esters such as:

[0309] a) linear fatty acid esters with a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, for example pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW=697.05 g / mol),

[0310] b) hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW=965.58 g / mol),

[0311] c) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW=757.19 g / mol), C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid and butyl salicylate

[0312] d) C24-C28 branched fatty acid esters or fatty alcohols such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW = 697.05 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891.51 g / mol), glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1143.98 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202.02 g / mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW = 1232.04 g / mol) or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1538.66 g / mol)

[0313] e) dimer and monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid esters and polyesters, such as dimer and fatty acid esters and dimer and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in US patent application 2004-175,338, • and mixtures thereof.

[0314] As used herein, the expression "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to a polar oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0315] It is preferable for the oil to have a logP value of 7.0 or less, better still 6.5 or less, and even better 6.0 or less. It may be preferable for the oil to have a logP value of 1.0 or more, better still 1.5 or more, and even better 2.0 or more. Thus, it may be preferable for the oil to have a logP value of 1.0 to 7.0, better still 1.5 to 6.5, and even better 2.0 to 6.0.

[0316] A log P value is the base-ten logarithm of the apparent octan-l-ol / water partition coefficient. Log P values ​​are known and are determined by a standard test that determines the concentration of oil in octan-l-ol and water. Log P can be calculated according to the method described in the article by Meylan and Howard: Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value can also be calculated using many commercially available software packages, which determine log P based on the structure of a molecule. For example, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's Epiwin software may be mentioned.

[0317] The values ​​can be calculated using the ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) Solaris V4.67 software; they can also be obtained from Exploring QSAR: hydrophobia, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995). There is also a website that provides estimated values ​​(address: http: / / esc.syrres.com / interkow / kowdemo.htm).

[0318] The oil may have at least two selected fractions from the group consisting of an amide bond, an ester bond, and mixtures thereof. The amide bond here means -CONR- (R denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or CrCi8 branched alkyl group, preferably a methyl group) and the ester bond here means -COO-. In other words, the oil may have two or more amide bonds, two or more ester bonds, or a mixture of at least one amide bond and at least one ester bond.

[0319] The oil may have at least two fractions selected from the group consisting of an ether bond, an ester bond, and mixtures thereof. The ether bond here means -O- and the ester bond here means -COO-. In other words, the oil may have two or more ether bonds, two or more ester bonds, or a mixture of at least one ether bond and at least one ester bond.

[0320] It may be preferable for the oil to be chosen from the group consisting of isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, octyldodecanol and a mixture of these.

[0321] On the other hand, as an example of a non-polar oil, squalane can be cited.

[0322] The oil can be selected from triglycerides. The triglyceride is an ester derived from glycerol and three fatty acids, and can be called triacylglycerol.

[0323] It is preferable that the oil triglyceride contain at least one unsaturated fatty acid residue. In other words, it is preferable that the oil triglyceride be a An ester derived from glycerol and at least one unsaturated fatty acid. Thus, the oil triglyceride can be (i) an ester derived from glycerol and one unsaturated fatty acid and two saturated fatty acids, (ii) an ester derived from glycerol and two unsaturated fatty acids and one saturated fatty acid, or (iii) an ester derived from three unsaturated fatty acids. If two or more unsaturated fatty acids are used, they can be the same or different. If two saturated fatty acids are used, they can be the same or different.

[0324] According to the present invention, "unsaturated fatty acid" means a fatty acid comprising at least one carbon-carbon double or triple bond. More particularly, this refers to long-chain fatty acids, that is to say, those capable of having 8-32 carbon atoms, preferably 12-26 carbon atoms and, even better, 14-22 carbon atoms.

[0325] Fatty acids can be monounsaturated such as petrolenic acid (C12), palmitoleic acid (C16) and oleic acid (C18), or can be polyunsaturated, i.e. having at least two carbon-carbon double bonds, such as linoleic acid (Cl8) and linolenic acid (Cl8).

[0326] It is preferable that the oil triglyceride contain at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid residue. In other words, it is preferable that the oil triglyceride be an ester derived from glycerol and at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid.

[0327] The polyunsaturated fatty acid can be selected from co-3, co-6 and co-9 fatty acids, characterized by the unsaturation position closest to the terminal methyl group.

[0328] Polyunsaturated fatty acids comprising between 18 and 22 carbon atoms, in particular those selected from co-3 and co-6 fatty acids, may be more preferable.

[0329] Among the polyunsaturated fatty acids of the co-3 series, we can mention a-linolenic acid (18:3, co-3), stearidonic acid (18:4, co-3), 5,8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic acid or EPA (20:5, co-3), and 4,7,10,13,16,19-docosahexaenoic acid or DHA (22:6, co-3), docosapentaenoic acid (22,5, co-3), and n-butyl-5,11,14-eicosatrienonic acid.

[0330] Among the polyunsaturated fatty acids of the co-6 series, we can mention linolenic acid with 18 carbon atoms and two unsaturations (18:2, co-6), γ-linolenic acid with 18 carbon atoms and three unsaturations (18:3, co-6), dihomogamalinolenic acid with 20 carbon atoms and 3 unsaturations (20:3, co-6), arachidonic acid or 5,8,11,14 eicosatetraenoic acid (20:4, co-6)), and docosatetraenoic acid (22:4, co-6).

[0331] As a co-9 fatty acid, mention may be made of medic acid (20:3, co-9).

[0332] The polyunsaturated fatty acid may be selected from α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, stearidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, mixtures thereof.

[0333] The amount of polyunsaturated fatty acid among the fatty acids forming the fatty acid residues in the triglyceride for the oil may be 10% by weight or more, of preference of 30% by weight or more and, better still, of 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of fatty acids.

[0334] The weight ratio of the amount of polyunsaturated fatty acid(s) / the amount of monounsaturated fatty acid(s) among the fatty acids forming the fatty acid residues in the triglyceride for the oil may be greater than 1.0, preferably greater than 1.5 and, even better, greater than 2.0.

[0335] The oil can be chosen from vegetable oils.

[0336] For example, the oil may be chosen from the group consisting of soybean oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, rice oil, corn oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, linseed oil and a mixture of these.

[0337] It is preferable that the oil be chosen from the group consisting of soybean oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, grapeseed oil and a mixture of these.

[0338] The quantity of oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 15% by weight and even better between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Polysaccharide

[0339] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one polysaccharide other than (d) the cationic polymer. Only one type of polysaccharide may be used, but two or more different types of polysaccharides may be used in combination.

[0340] The polysaccharide other than (d) the cationic polymer may be present in the dispersed phases and / or in the continuous phase. Preferably, the polysaccharides are present in both the dispersed phases and the continuous phase.

[0341] It is preferable that the polysaccharide be chosen from among plant-derived polysaccharides. In other words, it is preferable that the polysaccharide be of plant origin.

[0342] On the other hand, it is also preferable that the polysaccharide not be chosen from cellulose and its derivatives.

[0343] According to the present invention, the term "plant-derived polysaccharides" refers in particular to polysaccharides obtained from the plant world (plants or algae), as opposed to polysaccharides obtained by biotechnology, as is the case, for example, for xanthan gum, which is produced in particular by fermentation of a bacterium, Xanthomonas campestris.

[0344] Examples of plant-derived polysaccharides that can be used according to the present invention include, in particular:

[0345] a) seaweed extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans and agars, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans that may be mentioned include Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from the company Degussa; an alginate that can be mentioned is sodium alginate marketed under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP;

[0346] b) gums, such as guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum or locust bean gum; examples that may be mentioned include guar gum marketed under the name Jaguar HP 105® by Rhodia; mannan and konjac gum® (1% gluconomannan) marketed by GIN;

[0347] c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, corn or rice, from legumes, for instance blonde pea, from tubers, for instance potato or cassava, and tapioca starches; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; examples that may especially be mentioned include the rice starch Remy DR I® sold by the company Remy; the corn starch B® from the company Roquette; the potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; the native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch;

[0348] d) les dextrines, telles que la dextrine extraite du maïs sous le nom Index® de la société National Starch et

[0349] les mélanges de ceux-ci.

[0350] De préférence, le polysaccharide peut être choisi parmi les extraits d’algues.

[0351] Algae extracts may be selected from alginates, carrageenans and agars, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, alginates or agars, or mixtures thereof, may be used.

[0352] The quantity of oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.001% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.005% and 3% by weight and even better between 0.01% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Lipophilic antioxidant agent

[0353] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent. Only one type of lipophilic antioxidant agent may be used, but two or more different types of lipophilic antioxidant agents may be used in combination.

[0354] The lipophilic antioxidant agent is different from (a) retinoid.

[0355] The lipophilic antioxidant agent may preferably be present in the dispersed phases.

[0356] Lipophilic antioxidant means that the partition coefficient of the antioxidant agent between n-butanol and water is > 1, more preferably > 10 and even more preferably > 100.

[0357] Examples of lipophilic antioxidants include phenolic antioxidants, which have a hindered or semi-hindrained phenol structure within the molecule. Specific examples of such compounds include the following:

[0358] 3,5-Bis(l,l-dimethylethyl)-4-hydroxybenzenepropanoic acid) which has the INCI name pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol, 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-ethylphenol, mono- or di- or tri-(a-methylbenzyl)phenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(4-ethyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,2'-methylenebis(4-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4'-butylidenebis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4'-thiobis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,5-di-tert-butylhydroquinone, 2,5-di-tert-amylhydroquinone, tris[N-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)]isocyanurate, 1,1,3-tris(2-methyl-4-hydroxy-5-tert-butylphenyl)butane, butylidene-1,1 bis[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionate], octadecyl 3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate, tetrakis[methylene-3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate]methane, triethylene glycol bis[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionate], 3,9-bis{2-[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionyloxy]-1,1 -dimethylethyl}-2,4,8,10-tetraoxaspiro[5.5]undecane, l,3,5-trimethyl-2,4,6-tris(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)benzene, 2,2-thiodiethylenebis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate], N,N'-hexamethylenebis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamide), 1,6-hexanediol bis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate], l,3,5-tris[(4-tert-butyl-3-hydroxy-2,6-xylyl)methyl]-l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-trione, 2,4-bis(n-octylthio)-6-(4-hydroxy-3,5-di-tert-butylanilino)-l,3,5-triazine, 2-tert-butyl-6-(3'-tert-butyl-5'-methyl-2'-hydroxybenzyl)-4-methylphenyl acrylate, 2-[l-(2-hydroxy-3,5-di-tert-pentylphenyl)ethyl]-4,6-di-tert-pentylphenyl acrylate, 4,6-bis[(octylthio)methyl]-o-cresol, 2,4-di-tert-butylphenyl-3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzoate and 1,6-hexanediolbis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl) propionate].. ,

[0359] Other examples of lipophilic antioxidants include: BHA (hydroxyl butylated anisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), vitamin E (or tocopherols and tocotrienol) and their derivatives, such as the phosphate derivative, for example TPNA® marketed by Showa Denko, coenzyme Q10 (or ubiquinone), idebenone, certain carotenoids such as lutein, astaxanthin, beta-carotene and phenolic acids and derivatives (for example, chlorogenic acid).

[0360] Lipophilic antioxidants that may also be mentioned include dithiolanes, for example asparagusic acid, or their derivatives, for example derivatives of siliceous dithiolane, in particular those described in patent application FR 2 908 769.

[0361] Lipophilic antioxidant agents that may also be mentioned include:

[0362] glutathione and its derivatives (GSH and / or GSHOEt), such as alkyl esters of glutathione (such as those described in patent applications FR 2 704 754 and FR 2 908 769);

[0363] cysteine ​​and its derivatives, such as N-acetylcysteine ​​or L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid. Reference may also be made to the cysteine ​​derivatives described in patent applications FR 2 877 004 and FR 2 854 160;

[0364] certain enzymes for defense against oxidative stress, such as catalase, superoxide dismutase (SOD), lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductases;

[0365] benzylcyclanones; substituted naphthalenones; pidolates (as described in particular in patent application EP 0 511 118); caffeic acid and its derivatives, gamma-oryzanol; melatonin, sulforaphane and their extracts (excluding cress);

[0366] the diisopropyl ester of N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid, as described in particular in patent applications WO 94 / 11338, FR 2 698 095, FR 2 737 205 or EP 0 755 925;

[0367] deferoxamine (or Desféral) as described in patent application FR 2 825 920.

[0368] Lipophilic antioxidants that may also be used are chalcones, in particular phloretin or neohesperidin, diisopropyl ester of N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid or a maritime pine bark extract such as PYCNOGENOL®.

[0369] Examples of lipophilic antioxidants may also be cited: pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Nordihydroguaiaretic acid, tocopherol, resveratrol, propyl gallate, butylated toluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, ascorbyl palmitate, toherol and mixtures thereof.

[0370] It is preferable for the lipophilic antioxidant to be biodegradable. In this respect, BHT, which is not biodegradable, is not preferable as a lipophilic antioxidant. It is therefore preferable not to use BHT as a lipophilic antioxidant. Furthermore, it is preferable for the composition according to the present invention to be a BHT-free composition.

[0371] The term "free from" here means that the composition according to the present invention may contain a limited amount of BHT. However, it is preferable that the amount of BHT be limited so as to be less than 1% by weight, better still less than 0.1% by weight, and even better still less than 0.01% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the composition. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention not contain BHT.

[0372] It is preferable that the lipophilic antioxidant be chosen from tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate and a mixture of these.

[0373] The quantity of the lipophilic antioxidant(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Chelating agent

[0374] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one chelating agent. Only one type of chelating agent may be used, but two or more different types of chelating agents may be used in combination.

[0375] The chelating agent may be present in the continuous phase of the present invention.

[0376] Examples of chelating agents include:

[0377] (i) aminocarboxylic acids and their salts, such as compounds having the following INCI names: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their salts such as EDTA 2Na and EDTA 4Na, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic) acid (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382),chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509 382), ethanoldiglynic acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid, such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel; ,

[0378] (ii) chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acids, such as compounds having the following INCI names: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic) acid (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), acid ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP) and hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), their salts and derivatives, and

[0379] (iii) chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid such as compounds having the following INCI names: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid, their salts and derivatives,

[0380] and

[0381] mixtures of these.

[0382] It is preferable that the chelating agent be trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

[0383] The quantity of the chelating agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Water

[0384] The composition according to the present invention may include water.

[0385] The water in the composition according to the present invention may form a continuous phase. The water may also be present in the dispersed phases.

[0386] The quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 55% by weight or more and, better still, 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0387] Furthermore, the quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less and better still, 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0388] The quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention can be between 50% and 90% by weight, preferably between 55% and 85% by weight and even better between 60% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Polyol

[0389] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one polyol which is different from polyphenol. Only one type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyol may be used in combination.

[0390] The polyol may be present in the continuous phase.

[0391] The term "polyol" here refers to an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. A derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.

[0392] The polyol may be a C2-Ci2 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

[0393] The polyol can be natural or synthetic. The polyol can have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

[0394] The polyol can be selected from glycerins and their derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups) and mixtures thereof.

[0395] The quantity of the polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and, even better, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0396] Furthermore, the quantity of the polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less and, even better, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0397] Thus, the polyol(s) can be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and, even better, from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • pH correcting agent

[0398] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be corrected to the desired value by using at least one pH correcting agent, such as an acidifying agent or a basifying agent, for example, which are commonly used in cosmetic products.

[0399] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 9.0, preferably less than or equal to 8.5 and, better still, less than or equal to 7.5, and in particular less than or equal to 7.0 or equal to or greater than 2.5, preferably greater than or equal to 3.0 and, better still, greater than or equal to 3.5 at 25°C.

[0400] The pH correcting agent may be present in the continuous phase of the present invention.

[0401] Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0402] Examples of alkalizing agents include hydroxides of an alkali or alkaline earth metal, for example sodium hydroxide or hydroxide of potassium; quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide; alkali metal silicates, such as sodium metasilicates; carbonates and bicarbonates, in particular of a primary, secondary or tertiary amine, of an alkali or alkaline earth metal, or of ammonium; compounds of the following formula: Rx^ Rz ^NWN Ry X Rt

[0403] where

[0404] W is an alkylene residue in Ci-C6 optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or an alkyl group in Ci-C6;

[0405] Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6 alkyl, Ci-C6 hydroxyalkyl or Ci-C6 aminoalkyl group. Examples include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.

[0406] The pH correcting agent(s) may be used in an amount from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 5% by weight and, in particular, from there 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Non-ionic surfactant

[0407] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. If at least two nonionic surfactants are used, they may be identical or different.

[0408] The non-ionic surfactant may be present in the continuous phase of the present invention.

[0409] The nonionic surfactant may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 3.5 to 6.0 and, even better, 4.0 to 5.0. Alternatively, the nonionic surfactant may have an HLB value of 11 to 17, preferably 12 to 16 and, even better, 13 to 15. If two or more nonionic surfactants are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of all the nonionic surfactants.

[0410] The non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from:

[0411] (1) surfactants selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, alkyl polyoxyalkylated glycerides and polyoxyalkylated fatty ethers;

[0412] (2) mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol;

[0413] (3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars;

[0414] (4) surfactants selected from sorbitan fatty esters and fatty esters oxyalkylated sorbitan, and oxyalkylated fatty esters;

[0415] (5) sequenced copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B),

[0416] (6) alkyl (Ci6-C30) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO),

[0417] (7) silicone surfactants, and

[0418] (8) mixtures of these.

[0419] The surfactant (1) may be a fluid at a temperature less than or equal to 45 °C.

[0420] The surfactant (1) may in particular be: • polyglyceryl fatty acid esters of at least one, preferably one, fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C22 hydrocarbon group, such as a C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C8-Ci8 alkyl or alkenyl group and, better still, a C8-Ci2 alkyl or alkenyl group, and 2-12 glycerols, preferably 2-10 glycerols and, better still, 2-8 glycerols; • polyoxyethylenated alkyl glycerides (PEGyls) such as polyethylene glycol derivatives of a mixture of mono-, di- and triglycerides of caprylic and capric acids (preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, better still 2 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, and better still 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs), for example, PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides, PEG-7 caprylic / capric glycerides and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate; • polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers of at least one fatty alcohol, preferably one, comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C22 hydrocarbon group, such as a C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C8-C18 alkyl or alkenyl group and, even better, a C8-C12 alkyl or alkenyl group, and 2 to 60 ethylene oxides, preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxides and, even better, 2 to 10 ethylene oxides and • their mixtures.

[0421] It is preferable that the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester have a polyglycerol fraction derived from 2 to 30 glycerols, better still from 2 to 20 glycerols and, better still, from 4 to 12 glycerols.

[0422] The polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid may be selected from mono-, di- and triesters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably of saturated acid, comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms and, even better, 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, and myristic acid. Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate is an example of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

[0423] Polyoxyalkylated fatty ethers, preferably polyoxyethylated fatty ethers, may comprise from 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the ethers may be selected in particular from lauryl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers include lauryl alcohol ethers containing 2, 3, 4 and 5 ethylene oxide motifs (CTFA names: Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-4 and Laureth-5), such as products marketed under the names Nikkol BL-2 by Nikko Chemicals, Emalex 703 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd, Nikkol BL-4 by Nikko Chemicals and EMALEX 705 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd.Examples also include stearyl alcohol ethers comprising 2, 3, 4, 5 and 20 ethylene oxide motifs (CTFA names: Steareth-2, Steareth-3, Steareth-4, Steareth-5 and Steareth-20), such as products marketed under the names Emalex 602 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd, Emalex 603 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd, Nikkol BS-4 by Nikko Chemicals, and Emalex 605 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd.

[0424] It is also preferable that the polyoxyalkylated fatty ethers be polyethylene glycol ethers of C8-C24 alcohols or fatty alcohols and their polyoxyalkylated derivatives and polypropylene glycol ethers of C4-C24 alcohols or fatty alcohols such as PPG-14 butyl ether and PPG-15 stearyl ether.

[0425] The (2) mixed esters of fatty acids, or fatty alcohols, carboxylic acid, and glycerol, usable as the above-mentioned nonionic surfactant, may be selected in particular from the group comprising mixed esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols with an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and even better, 8 to 12 carbon atoms, and α-hydroxy acid and / or succinic acid, with glycerol. The α-hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0426] The alkyl chain of the fatty acids or alcohols from which the mixed esters usable in the nanoemulsion of the present invention are derived may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. These may include, in particular, stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonate, palmitate, myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyle, lauryl or capryl chains, and mixtures thereof.

[0427] By way of examples of mixed esters usable in the nanoemulsion of the present invention, one may mention the mixed ester of glycerol and the mixture of citric acid, of lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (CTFA name: glyceryl citrate / lactate / linoleate / oleate) marketed by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 375; the mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFA name: isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) marketed by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate citrate) marketed by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (name CTFA: glyceryl stearate lactate) marketed by the company Danisco under the name Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30.

[0428] The (3) fatty acid esters of sugars, usable as the above nonionic surfactant, may be selected in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of C8-C22 fatty acids and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of esters of C14-C22 fatty acids and methylglucose.

[0429] The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty acids forming the fatty acid motif of the esters usable in the present invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 8 to 22 or 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. The fatty acid motif of the esters may be selected in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates are preferably used.

[0430] The (3) fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, usable as the above nonionic surfactant, may be solid at a temperature of 45°C or lower and may be selected in particular from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers of C8-C22 fatty alcohols and glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, and ethers or mixtures of ethers of a C14-C22 fatty alcohol and methylglucose. These include, in particular, alkyl polyglucosides.

[0431] The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the ethers which may be used in the nanoemulsion of the present invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated, linear alkyl or alkenyl chain containing, respectively, from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohol unit of the ethers may be selected in particular from among the decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyle, lauryl, capryl, hexadecanoyl, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. Caprylyl / capryl glucoside is an example of a fatty alcohol ether of sugars.

[0432] The (4) sorbitan fatty acid esters and oxyalkylated sorbitan fatty acid esters that can be used as the above nonionic surfactant may be selected from the group comprising sorbitan fatty acid esters in C16-C22 and sorbitan fatty acid esters oxyethylated in C16-C22 may be formed from at least one fatty acid having at least one saturated linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, of 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters can generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene glycol motifs and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) motifs.

[0433] These esters may be selected in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.

[0434] The (4) oxyalkylated fatty esters, preferably ethoxylated fatty esters, usable as the above-mentioned nonionic surfactant, may be esters formed of 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, preferably 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units and, even better, 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and of at least one fatty acid chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms and, even better, 8 to 12 carbon atoms. The fatty acid chain in the esters may be selected in particular from stearate, behenate, arachidate, and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof.Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters include stearic acid ester containing 40 ethylene oxide motifs, such as the product marketed under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) by ICI, and behenic acid ester containing 8 ethylene oxide motifs (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product marketed under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by Gattefosse.

[0435] The (5) sequenced copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B), usable as the above nonionic surfactant, may be selected in particular from the sequenced copolymers of formula (I):

[0436] HO(C2H4O)x(C3H6O)y(C2H4O)zH (I)

[0437] in which x, y and z are integers such that x+z ranges from 2 to 100 and y ranges from 14 to 60, and their mixtures, and more particularly among the sequenced copolymers of formula (I) having an HLB value ranging from 8.0 to 14.0.

[0438] The (6)alkyl (Ci6-C3O) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ethers, which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, can be selected from the group consisting of:

[0439] PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30; Polyoxyethylene (30) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those marketed under the name Nikkol PEN-4630 by Nikko Chemicals Co,

[0440] PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-12; Polyoxyethylene (12) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those marketed under the name Nikkol PEN-4612 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

[0441] PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24; Polyoxyethylene (24) Polyoxypropylene (13) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those marketed as UNILUBE 50MT-2200B by NOF Corporation,

[0442] PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (6) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those marketed under the name Nikkol PEN-4620 by Nikko Chemicals Co,

[0443] PPG-4 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those marketed by Nikkol PBC-31 of Nikko Chemicals Co,

[0444] PPG-8 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether such as those marketed under the name Nikkol PBC-41 by Nikko Chemicals Co,

[0445] PPG-4 Ceteth-10; Polyoxyethylene (10) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those marketed under the name Nikkol PBC-33 by Nikko Chemicals Co.,

[0446] PPG-4 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those marketed under the name Nikkol PBC-34 by Nikko Chemicals Co.,

[0447] PPG-5 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (5) Cetyl Ether such as those marketed under the name Procetyl AWS by Croda Inc,

[0448] PPG-8 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether such as those marketed under the name Nikkol PBC-44 by Nikko Chemicals Co. and

[0449] PPG-23 Steareth-34; Polyoxyethylene Polyoxypropylene Stearyl Ether (34 EO) (23 PO) such as those marketed under the name Unisafe 34S-23 by Pola Chemical Industries. They can provide a composition with long-term stability, even if the temperature of the composition is raised and lowered in a relatively short period.

[0450] As (7) silicone surfactants, which can be used like the nonionic surfactant above, mention may be made of those disclosed in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.

[0451] The (7) silicone surfactant as a nonionic surfactant above may preferably be a compound of formula (I):

[0452] in which:

[0453] Ri, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent an alkyl radical in Cr C6 or a radical -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4, at least one radical RB Since R2 or R3 is not an alkyl radical, R4 is a hydrogen, an alkyl radical, or an acyl radical.

[0454] A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

[0455] B is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;

[0456] x is an integer from 1 to 6;

[0457] y is an integer between 1 and 30;

[0458] z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

[0459] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is an integer from 2 to 6 and y is an integer from 4 to 30.

[0460] Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) include compounds of formula (II): (CH3)3SiO - [(CH3)2SiO]A - (CH3SiO)B - Si(CH3)3 i (H) (CH2HOCH2CH2)y-OH

[0461] in which A is an integer from 20 to 105, B is an integer from 2 to 10 and y is an integer from 10 to 20.

[0462] By way of examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), we may also mention the compounds of formula (III):

[0463] H-(OCH2CH2)y-(CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO]A-(CH2)3-(OCH2CH2)y-OH(ni)

[0464] in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.

[0465] The non-ionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 3% by weight and, even better, 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Additives

[0466] The composition according to the present invention, in particular the continuous phase of the present invention, may also include various adjuvants traditionally used in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, such as anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, hydrophilic antioxidants, hydrophilic active ingredients, colorants, thickeners, sequestering agents, perfumes, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, co-preservatives, photostabilizers, such as tris(tetramethylhydroxypipiperyl) citrate, and mixtures thereof, with the exception of the ingredients as explained above.

[0467] Examples of hydrophilic active ingredients include vitamin B3 and its derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, resorcinol derivatives, C-glycoside derivatives, salicylic acid and its derivatives, α-hydroxy acids, niacinamide and their mixtures.

[0468] The hydrophilic active ingredient may be present in the continuous phase of the present invention.

[0469] The quantity of additives included in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, but may be from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

[0470] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0471] The method and means for mixing the essential and optional ingredients above are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the essential and optional ingredients above to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The dispersion composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the dispersed phases and the continuous phase.

[0472] [Process and use]

[0473] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic or dermatological composition and, better still, a cosmetic composition and, even better, a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0474] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, to treat a keratinous substance such as skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, by being applied to the keratinous substance.

[0475] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.

[0476] The composition according to the present invention can be used as an anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, depigmenting, or skin-renewing product, or as a product for keratinous materials such as skin. In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an anti-wrinkle cosmetic product for the skin.

[0477] The above explanations concerning ingredients (a) to (d), as well as optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention can be applied to the uses and processes according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0478] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which, however, should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0479] [Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3]

[0480] The compositions according to Example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were prepared in accordance with the following protocol. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of components indicated in Table 1 are all based on the "% by weight" as active raw materials.

[0481] The dispersion compositions were prepared as follows:

[0482] (1) mixture of isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, octyldodecanol, glycine oil soybean (soy), butylparaben and tocopherol, and heat to 75-80 °C to form a uniform mixture, then cool to room temperature and introduce retinol to obtain a uniform core-forming composition;

[0483] (2) mixture of water, agar and alginate, and heats to 75-80 °C, to form a uniform shell composition;

[0484] (3) coextrusion of the uniform core-forming composition and the uniform shell-forming composition to form capsules as a plurality of dispersed phases;

[0485] (4) mixture of the ingredients listed as continuous phase in Table 1 for prepare a continuous phase and

[0486] (5) mixing of the dispersed phases with the continuous phase to prepare the dispersion.

[0487] [Evaluations]

[0488] (Thermal stability and photo)

[0489] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and comparative examples 1-3 was filled into a transparent container and stored at 55 °C for 2 weeks, or under UV irradiation using Suntest CPS (TOYO SEIKI, 765 W / m²) for 24 hours at room temperature. After storage, each composition was homogenized using a homogenizer at 15,000 rpm for 10 minutes to break the capsules it contained in order to prepare the samples for HPLC analysis. The residual percentage of retinol and ascorbic acid after storage was measured by HPLC and calculated based on the reference percentage (those stored at 4 °C for 2 weeks) measured by HPLC. The residual percentage of retinol and ascorbic acid thus calculated for each composition was evaluated according to the following criteria. • Thermal stability (storage at 55°C for 2 weeks)

[0490] OK: 90 <

[0491] NG: <90 • Photo stability (24-hour storage in sunlight)

[0492] OK: 75 <

[0493] NG: < 75

[0494] (Color dispersion and stability)

[0495] Each of the compositions according to example 1 and comparative examples 1-3 was poured into a glass vial, and each of the glass vials was kept at a temperature of 55 °C for 2 weeks.

[0496] Each glass vial was then examined for dispersion and color stability by visual observation. Regarding dispersion stability, the sample was examined to determine whether the dispersion (capsules) was uniformly distributed throughout the composition. Regarding color stability, the sample was examined to determine whether there was any color change. These properties were then evaluated according to the following criteria. • Stability to dispersion

[0497] OK: the capsules have been dispersed evenly in the composition.

[0498] NOK: the capsules were floating or precipitated in the composition. • Evolution of color

[0499] OK: the color has not changed or has changed slightly to light brown.

[0500] NOK: the color has turned brown.

[0501] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0502] [Tables 1] Ingredients Ex. 1 Ex. comp. 1 Ex. comp. 2 Ex. comp. 3 Disperded Phase Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate 0.522 0.522 0.522 0.522 Octyldodecanol 0.087 0.087 0.087 0.087 Glycine Soya (Soybean) Oil 3.150 3.150 3.150 3.150 Retinol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Butylparaben 0.131 0.131 0.131 0.131 Tocopherol 0.261 0.261 0.261 0.261 Water 2.853 2.853 2.853 2.853 Agar 0.032 0.032 0.032 0.032 Alginate 0.015 0.015 0.015 0.015 Continuous phase Water qslOO qslOO qslOO qslOO Ascorbic acid 12 - 12 12 Pentylene glycol 3 3.5 3 3 Sodium hydroxide 2.7 - 2.7 2.7 Propanediol 1.254 1.254 1.254 1.254 Glucosylrutin (and) Rutin 0.9 0.9 - 0.9 Guar chloride hydroxypropyl triammonium hydroxypropyl 0.7 0.7 0.7 - Hydroxyacetophenone 0.536 0.536 0.536 0.536 Xanthan gum (and) Ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum 0.308 0.304 0.308 0.308 Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate (and) Sodi um Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Chlorphenesin 0.279 0.279 0.279 0.279 Caprylyl Glycol 0.205 0,205 0.205 0.205 Perfume 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Niacinamide 0.097 0.097 0.097 0.097 Ethylenediamine disuccinate trisodium 0.062 0.062 0.062 0.062 , PPG-6-decyltetradeceth-30 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Caffeine 0.039 0.039 0.039 0.039 Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate 0.039 0.039 0.039 0.039 Residual retinol (%) 55°C, 2 weeks OK NG OK OK UV radiation (765 W / m²), 24 hours OK OK NG OK Residual ascorbic acid (%) 55°C, two weeks OK - OK OK UV radiation (765 W / m²), 24 hours OK - OK OK Dispersion stability at 55°C, 2 weeks OK OK NG NG Color evolution at 55°C, 2 weeks OK OK OK OK

[0503] The composition according to Example 1, which included the ingredients (a) to (d) explained above, maintained a stable dispersion form without floating or precipitation of the dispersed phases, and could keep the retinoid inside at a sufficient residual velocity, even under exposure to light and high temperature.

[0504] On the other hand, the composition according to comparative example 1, which did not include ingredient (c), was unable to maintain ingredient (a) at a sufficient residual level at high temperature.

[0505] The composition according to comparative example 2, which did not include ingredient (b), was unable to maintain ingredient (a) at a sufficient residual velocity under UV radiation.

[0506] The composition according to comparative example 3, which did not include ingredient (d), was unable to maintain the dispersion form and the capsules floated in the composition.

Claims

Demands

1. A dispersion composition comprising a continuous phase and a plurality of dispersed phases, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (a) 0.01% to 5% by weight of at least one retinoid; (b) 0.01% to 5% by weight of at least one compound capable of providing a solution with a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less and, even better, 2% or less, for light of a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm, along an optical path length of 10 mm, the concentration of the compound in the solution being 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution, said compound (b) being selected from flavonoids; (c) 1% to 30% by weight of at least one hydrophilic antioxidant other than ingredient (b); and (d) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of at least one cationic polymer.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, wherein (a) retinoid is present in dispersed phases.

3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein compound (b), (c) the hydrophilic antioxidant and (d) the cationic polymer are present in the continuous phase.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein (a) retinoid is retinol.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein compound (b) is selected from quercetin, isoquercetin, rutin, glucosylrutin and a mixture thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein (c) the hydrophilic antioxidant agent is selected from ascorbic acid, salts of ascorbic acid and combinations thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (d) cationic polymer is selected from cationic polysaccharides, preferably non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides, better still cationic gums, in particular cationic galactomannan gums.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 3 to 7, wherein the continuous phase is a continuous aqueous phase.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the dispersed phases comprise capsules.

10. Cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of the preceding claims to the keratinous substance.