Styling compositions
Non-Newtonian shear-thinning styling compositions transition from solid to liquid during application, addressing application difficulties of traditional products, offering easy application and effective hold.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023001085
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-02-06
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-13
- Estimated Expiration
- 2043-02-06
AI Technical Summary
Traditional styling products for hair are difficult to apply due to their solid or viscous nature, often leading to uneven drying and a rigid, brittle film, compromising hold and user experience.
Styling compositions exhibiting non-Newtonian shear-thinning behavior, transitioning from a solid-like consistency to a liquid-like consistency during application, facilitated by a combination of fatty amides, hydroxysubstituted fatty acids, and low-polarity oils, allowing easy application while maintaining styling benefits.
The compositions provide a solid-to-liquid transformation during use, enhancing application ease and delivering long-lasting hold, pleasant texture, and manageability, while retaining styling attributes.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Hair styling compositions SCOPE OF DISCLOSURE
[0001] This disclosure relates to styling compositions that exhibit non-Newtonian shear-thinning behavior, providing a solid-liquid transformation during use for easy application, while retaining the styling attributes of a traditional styling solid (e.g., wax, clay, paste, pomade). Styling compositions are useful for styling or shaping hair and for giving it hold, control, and texture. CONTEXT
[0002] Consumers want new, multifunctional hair products that not only offer excellent styling benefits but also simplify their routine with easier application and distribution. These products must be pleasant to the senses, with innovative, interesting, and / or enjoyable textures, without compromising functional performance. Furthermore, many consumers prefer lightweight hair products that are easy to apply and provide hold and manageability.
[0003] Traditional styling products found on the cosmetics market come in various forms. They range from solutions, mousses, gels, creams, waxes, sprays, and serums to aerosols, and can provide varying levels of protection and styling to the hair depending on the hair condition and the product's components. Generally, products designed to provide styling or shaping benefits to the hair are presented as hair care or treatment products. These products are sometimes solid or very thick / viscous, making them difficult to apply. During application, these products may dry unevenly due to their form or become rigid and / or "crackly" with limited hold (i.e., the film is too hard and brittle), which is undesirable for many consumers.
[0004] Current products for providing styling or shaping benefits to hair often include water-soluble film-forming polymers. Depending on the chemical composition of these polymers, they may be water-soluble or water-insoluble and made water-soluble through various chemical modifications, such as neutralization. Solutions containing these polymers tend to be viscous; that is, the higher the polymer concentration, the more rapidly their viscosity increases. In styling applications, as the solvent evaporates, the polymer solution thickens on the hair surface, resulting in a sticky or tacky film. DISCLOSURE SUMMARY
[0005] This disclosure relates to styling compositions having unique rheological properties. For example, in various embodiments, the styling compositions exhibit non-Newtonian shear-thinning behavior during use. The viscosity decreases as a function of the shear stress applied to the composition. Consequently, at rest or when the compositions are subjected to very little physical handling, the compositions are more "solid," having the consistency of a wax. When the compositions are subjected to more vigorous physical handling, for example, when rubbed in a consumer's hand and applied to the hair, the compositions become more "liquid." In other words, the compositions exhibit a solid-to-liquid transformation during use, which facilitates application.Styling compositions are particularly useful for providing the unique benefits that solid styling products offer (such as pastes and clays), while remaining very easy to apply due to their distinctive rheology. For example, these compositions maintain hair shape, provide long-lasting hold, and impart a pleasant texture and feel to the hair, all while being easy to apply because of their liquid-to-solid transformation behavior during use.
[0006] Styling compositions include:
[0007] (a) one or more fatty amides, fatty alkanolamides and / or fatty amides alkoxylated;
[0008] (b) one or more non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids;
[0009] (c) one or more hydroxysubstituted fatty acids;
[0010] (d) at least 70% by weight of one or more oils and
[0011] where the composition comprises less than 2% by weight of water and
[0012] where all percentages by weight are based on a total weight of the composition.
[0013] Although they do not wish to be bound by any particular theory, the inventors They believe that the unique non-Newtonian shear-thinning behavior of the compositions is due in part to the combination of (a) one or more fatty amides, fatty alkanolamides, and / or alkoxylated fatty amides and (c) one or more hydroxysubstituted fatty acids, particularly in combination with (b) one or more unsubstituted fatty acids in a weakly polar oily medium. Without being bound by any particular theory, it is thought that the non-Newtonian shear-thinning behavior results from hydrogen bonding between (c) the hydroxysubstituted fatty acid and itself and / or with (a) one or more fatty amides, fatty alkanolamides, and / or alkoxylated fatty amides. This occurs when the water concentration is low, so that it does not interfere with the hydrogen bonding mechanism. Hence the use of a weakly polar oily medium.
[0014] Non-limiting examples of fatty amides include fatty alkanolamides such as soybean alkanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide (stearamide MEA), behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide (isostearamide MIPA), erucic acid diethanol, ricinoleic acid monoethanol, coconut fatty acid monoisopropanolamide (cocoamide MIPA), coconut acid monoethanol (cocamide MEA), palm kernel acid diethanolamide, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, polyoxyethylenated coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric acid monoisopropanolamide (lauramide MIPA), myristamide monoisopropanolamide (myristamide MIPA),Coconut fatty acid diisopropanolamide (cocamide DIPA) and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, fatty acid alkanolamides are selected from cocamide MIPA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide DIPA, and mixtures thereof.
[0015] Non-limiting examples of non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, the non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acid is selected from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, and combinations thereof.
[0016] Non-limiting examples of hydroxy-substituted fatty acids include 12-hydroxystearic acid, 9,10-dihydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 9,10,18-trihydroxyoctadecanoic acid, lesquerolic acid, 15-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, isoricinoleic acid, densipolic acid, 14-hydroxy-eicosa-cis-11-cis-17-dienoic acid, 2-hydroxyoleic acid, 2-hydroxylinoleic acid, 18-hydroxystearic acid, 15-hydroxylinoleic acid, and a combination thereof.
[0017] Non-limiting examples of low-polarity oils include low-polarity hydrocarbon oils, low-polarity silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, one or more low-polarity oils include low-polarity hydrocarbon oils that are linear or branched hydrocarbons containing at least 20 carbon atoms, such as paraffinic hydrocarbons and olefins. Non-limiting examples include C24-28 olefins, C30-45 olefins, C20-40 isoparaffins, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisobutene, polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, mineral oil, petrolatum, pentahydrosqualene, squalene, squalane, and mixtures thereof. In preferred embodiments, the low-polarity oils include one or more natural oils, in particular a vegetable oil. Non-limiting examples of vegetable oils include: sunflower oil, canola oil, soybean oil, corn oil, peanut oil, palm oil, castor oil, cottonseed oil, lesquerella oil, crambe oil, safflower oil and mixtures thereof.
[0018] Styling compositions optionally include one or more alkoxylated polyol esters. Non-limiting examples of alkoxylated polyol esters include pegylated derivatives of propylene glycol oleate, propylene glycol caprylate / caprate, propylene glycol cocoate, propylene glycol stearate, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the alkoxylated polyol esters are selected from PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-6 propylene glycol caprylate / caprate, PEG-8 propylene glycol cocoate, PEG-25 propylene glycol stearate, and PEG-120 propylene glycol stearate, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, one or more alkoxylated polyol esters are selected from PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-6 propylene glycol caprylate / caprate, PEG-8 propylene glycol cocoate, PEG-25 propylene glycol stearate and PEG-120 propylene glycol stearate and a mixture thereof.
[0019] The styling compositions optionally include one or more water-soluble organic solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (for example, Cm, Cmo, Ci-8 or Ci-4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of monoalcohols and polyols include ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.Other suitable examples of organic solvents are: ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin.
[0020] Additional components may optionally be included in the styling compositions, for example, additional fatty compounds (such as solid fatty compounds, e.g., waxes), film-forming polymers, thickening agents, cationic polymers, surfactants (anionic, cationic, amphoteric, non-ionic), etc. In various embodiments, the styling composition includes one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, etc. salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, compositional colorants, humectants, etc.
[0021] Styling compositions can be used in various methods for treating hair, for example, human hair. For example, styling compositions are useful for: (i) enhancing or maintaining curl definition or hold; (ii) styling and shaping hair; (iii) aligning and disciplining hair fibers; and (iv) improving the appearance of hair; the processes generally comprising the application of a styling composition disclosed herein to the hair. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE
[0022] This disclosure relates to styling compositions and methods of using styling compositions for styling hair. In various embodiments, the styling compositions exhibit non-Newtonian shear-thinning behavior. Conventional "Newtonian" fluids, such as those generally used here, demonstrate a viscosity essentially independent of the shear gradient. However, "non-Newtonian fluids" exhibit a viscosity that decreases or increases with increasing shear gradient; for example, the fluids are "shear-thinning" or "shear-thickening," respectively.
[0023] An example of a non-Newtonian fluid is a suspension of starch (flour) in water, sometimes called oobleck. Another non-Newtonian fluid is silly putty, which is an example of a polymer-based suspension. Applying a force to certain types of non-Newtonian fluids, for example by tapping the surface with a finger or rapidly turning the container holding it upside down, causes the fluid to behave like a solid, rather than a liquid. This non-Newtonian fluid is referred to as having a "shear-thickening" property. Gentler treatment, such as the slow insertion of a spoon, will leave it in the liquid state. However, rapidly removing the spoon triggers the return to the temporary solid state. Materials exhibiting such properties may be called non-Newtonian viscoelastic fluids with shear-thickening behavior.Non-Newtonian fluids, particularly multiphase fluids (foams, emulsions, dispersions and suspensions, slurries, for example) and polymeric molten masses and solutions, do not conform to the Newtonian postulate of a linear relationship between shear stress and shear rate in simple shear. Similarly, apparent viscosity, defined as shear stress divided by shear rate, is not constant and depends on the shear stress. or the shear rate.
[0024] The viscosity of the hairspray compositions can be determined using methods known for measuring viscosity. For example, viscosity is measured with a TA Instruments Discovery HR-2 rheometer at 25°C using parallel sandblasted plates of 40 mm, a gap of 300 sq m and a shear range of 0.1 / s to 100 / s.
[0025] The hair treatment compositions of this disclosure typically comprise:
[0026] (a) one or more fatty amides, fatty alkanolamides and / or fatty amides alkoxylated;
[0027] (b) one or more non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids;
[0028] (c) one or more hydroxysubstituted fatty acids;
[0029] (d) at least 70% by weight of one or more low polarity oils;
[0030] (e) optionally, one or more alkoxylated polyol esters;
[0031] (f) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more solvents water-soluble organics;
[0032] (g) optionally from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more in various ingredients;
[0033] where the composition comprises less than 2% by weight of water and
[0034] where all percentages by weight are based on a total weight of the composition.
[0035] the hair-coating composition exhibiting a non-Newtonian shear-thickening behavior.
[0036] Fatty amides, fatty alkanolamides and / or fatty alkoxylated amides
[0037] Non-limiting examples of fatty amides include fatty alkanolamides such as fatty acid alkanolamides. Fatty acid alkanolamides may be fatty acid monoalkanolamides, fatty acid dialkanolamides, or fatty acid isoalkanolamides, and may have a hydroxyalkyl group at C2x (the C2.8 chain may be substituted by one or more -OH groups). Non-limiting examples include fatty acid diethanolamides (DEA) or fatty acid monoethanolamides (MEA), fatty acid monoisopropanolamides (MIPA), fatty acid diisopropanolamides (DIPA), and fatty acid glucamides (acyl glucamides).
[0038] Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides include those formed by the reaction of an alkanolamine and a C6-C36 fatty acid. Examples of these include, but are not limited to, the following compounds: oleic acid diethanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide (Stearamide MEA), behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide (Isostearamide MIPA), erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, monoiso- coconut fatty acid propanolamide (cocoamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide (cocamide MEA), palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide polyoxyethylene, coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric acid monoisopropanolamide (lauramide MIPA), myristic acid monoisopropanolamide (myristamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid diisopropanolamide (cocamide DIPA) and mixtures thereof.
[0039] In one embodiment, fatty acid alkanolamides include cocamide MIPA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide DIPA and mixtures thereof.
[0040] In one embodiment, the fatty acid alkanolamides are selected from the commercially available cocamide MIPA under the trade name EMPILAN from Innospec Active Chemicals.
[0041] Other non-limiting examples of fatty acid alkanolamides include the following compounds: oleic acid diethanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide (Stearamide MEA), behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide (Isostearamide MIPA), erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoisopropanolamide (Cocoamide MIPA), coconut acid monoethanolamide (Cocamide MEA), palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, fatty acid monoethanolamide coconut polyoxyethylene, coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, lauric acid monoethanolamide, lauric acid monoisopropanolamide, (lauramide MIPA),Myristamide monoisopropanolamide (myristamide MIPA), cocamide diisopropanolamide (cocamide DIPA), and mixtures thereof.
[0042] Fatty acid alkanolamides include those having the following structure: O R4CNR s R^
[0043] where R4 is an alkyl chain of 4 to 20 carbon atoms (R4 can be, for example, selected from lauric acid, coconut acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, babassu fatty acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, maize fatty acid, soybean fatty acid, shea butter fatty acids, caprylic acid, capric acid and mixtures thereof);
[0044] R5 is selected from -CH20H, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl and their mixtures;
[0045] R6 is selected from -H, -CH3, -CH20H, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, --CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl and their mixtures.
[0046] In some embodiments, one or more fatty acid alkanolamides are preferably acyl glucamides, for example, acyl glucamides having a carbon chain length of 8 to 20. Non-limiting examples include lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / capryl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, capryl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, lauryl methyl glucamide, oleoyl methyl glucamide oleate, stearoyl methyl glucamide stearate, sunfloweroyl methyl glucamide and tocopheryl succinate methyl glucamide.
[0047] Non-limiting examples of alkoxylated fatty amides include PEG-20 Cocamide MEA, PEG-2 Cocamide, PEG-3 Cocamide, PEG-4 Cocamide, PEG-5 Cocamide, PEG-6 Cocamide, PEG-7 Cocamide, PEG-3 Lauramide, PEG-5 Lauramide, PEG-3 Oleamide, PEG-9 Oleamide, PEG-4 Stearamide, PEG-10 Stearamide, PPG-2 Cocamide, PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide, PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Coco / Isostearamide and their combinations. Commercially available alkoxylated fatty amides include, among others, any alkoxylated fatty amide under the brand name PROTAMIDE TM (available from Protameen Chemicals, Totowa, NJ) or SERDOX@ (available from Elementis Specialties, East Windsor, NJ).
[0048] The quantity of one or more fatty amides, fatty alkanolamides, and / or alkoxylated fatty amides in the styling compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the styling composition includes approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight of one or more fatty amides, fatty alkanolamides, and / or alkoxylated fatty amides, based on the total weight of the styling composition. In other embodiments, the styling composition includes approximately 1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, and approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight.%, from about 2 to about 8% by weight, from about 3 to about 15% by weight, from about 3 to about 12% by weight, from about 3 to about 10% by weight, from about 3 to about 8% by weight, from about 4 to about 15% by weight, from about 4 to about 12% by weight, from about 4 to about 10% by weight, or about 4 to about 8% by weight of one or more fatty amides and / or alkoxylated fatty amides, relative to the total weight of the styling composition. Non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids
[0049] Non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, from about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, and from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be straight-chain or branched-chain and may be saturated or unsaturated. Salts of these fatty acids are also included in this document. Non-limiting examples of non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the fatty acids are selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.In various embodiments, the non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acid is selected from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid and a combination thereof.
[0050] The amount of one or more non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids in the styling composition will vary. However, in various embodiments, the styling composition includes approximately 1 to approximately 12% by weight of one or more non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids. In other embodiments, the styling composition includes approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 8% by weight, or approximately 3 to approximately 7% by weight of one or more non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. Hydroxysubstituted fatty acids
[0051] Hydroxysubstituted fatty acids include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, from about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, and from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be straight-chain or branched-chain and may be saturated or unsaturated. Salts of these fatty acids are also included in this document. Non-limiting examples of hydroxysubstituted fatty acids include 12-hydroxystearic acid, 9,10-dihydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 9,10,18-trihydroxyoctadecanoic acid, les-querolic acid, 15-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, isoricinoleic acid, den-sipolic acid, 14-hydroxy-eicosa-cis-11-cis-17-dienoic acid, 2-hydroxyoleic acid, 2-hydroxylinoleic acid, 18-hydroxystearic acid, 15-hydroxylinoleic acid, and combinations thereof.
[0052] The amount of one or more hydroxysubstituted fatty acids in the styling composition will vary. However, in various embodiments, the styling composition includes approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight of one or more non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids. In other embodiments, the styling composition comprises approximately 1 to approximately 0.5 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 1.5 to approximately 4% by weight of one or more hydroxysubstituted fatty acids, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
[0053] In cases where the styling composition includes one or more hydroxysubstituted fatty acids of (c), one or more non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids of (b) and one or more hydroxysubstituted fatty acids of (c) are in the quantities described throughout the disclosure. The weight ratio of (b) to (c) varies. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the weight ratio of (b) to (c) is from approximately 10:1 to approximately 1:1 ((b):(c)).In other embodiments, the weight ratio of (b) to (c) is approximately 8:1 to approximately 1:1, approximately 6:1 to approximately 1:1, approximately 5:1 to approximately 1:1, approximately 4:1 to approximately 1:1, approximately 3:1 to approximately 1:1, approximately 10:1 to 1:1, approximately 8:1 to 1:1, approximately 6:1 to 1:1, approximately 5:1 to 1:1, approximately 4:1 to 1:1, approximately 3:1 to 1:1, approximately 10:1 to approximately 1.5:1, approximately 8:1 to approximately 1.5:1, approximately 6:1 to approximately 1.5:1, approximately 5:1 to approximately 1.5:1, and approximately 4:1 to approximately 1.5:1, from about 3:1 to about 1.5:1, from about 10:1 to about 2:1, from about 8:1 to about 2:1, from about 6:1 to about 2:1, from about 5:1 to about 2:1, from about 4:1 to about 2:1, or from about 3:1 to about 2:1. Weakly polar oils
[0054] The polarity of an oil is defined as the polarity index (interfacial tension) of the oil with respect to water. The polarity is determined using a ring tensiometer (e.g., Krüss K 10), which measures the interfacial tension in mN / m by analogy with the ASTM D971-99a (2004) method. For the purposes of the present invention, "low polarity oil" means an oil having a polarity index of 5 mN / m or more and includes nonpolar oils.
[0055] Low polar oils include hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. Low polar oils may be nonionic lipophilic compounds that are insoluble in water and liquid at room temperature (25 °C). The term "insoluble in water" refers to a compound having a water solubility of less than 1% at a natural pH (at atmospheric pressure and 25 °C). Low polar hydrocarbon oils include volatile hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof. Suitable volatile low polar hydrocarbon oils include linear or branched lower C5-C20 alkanes, optionally cyclic. Examples include, but are not limited to, the following compounds: pentane, hexane, heptane, decane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane and isoparaffins, for example isodecane, isododecane and isohexadecane.
[0056] Suitable non-volatile, low-polar hydrocarbon oils include linear or branched hydrocarbons containing at least 20 carbon atoms, such as paraffinic hydrocarbons and olefins. Examples of such hydrocarbon oils include C24-28 olefins, C30-45 olefins, C20-40 isoparaffins, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisobutene, polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, mineral oil, petrolatum, pentahydrosqualene, squalene, squalane, and mixtures thereof. Suitable non-volatile silicone oils are synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are bonded together via oxygen atoms. Silicone oils may be non-volatile and insoluble in aqueous solution. By non-volatile, we mean that the silicone has a very low vapor pressure under ambient temperature conditions (for example, less than 2 mm Hg at 20 °C).Non-volatile silicone oils generally have a boiling point above approximately 250°C, 260°C, or 275°C.
[0057] Non-volatile silicone oils have viscosities ranging from approximately 25 to approximately 1,000,000 mPa-s at 25 °C, from approximately 100 to approximately 600,000 rnPa-s, from approximately 1,000 to approximately 100,000 rnPa-s, from approximately 2,000 to approximately 50,000 mPa-s, or from approximately 4,000 to approximately 40,000 rnPa-s. In various embodiments, silicone oils have an average molecular weight of less than approximately 200,000 Daltons. The average molecular weight can generally range from about 400 to about 199,000 Daltons, or from about 500 to about 150,000 Daltons, or from about 1,000 to about 100,000 Daltons, or from about 5,000 to about 65,000 Daltons. In various embodiments, silicone oils suitable as low-polarity oils are polyorganosiloxane materials selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.Methylsubstituted polyorganosiloxanes are also known as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicone (INCI).
[0058] In various embodiments, the weakly polar oil is a natural oil, in particular a vegetable oil. Non-exhaustive examples of natural oils: acai, sweet almond, aloe vera, andiroba, apricot kernel, arnica, argan, avocado, babassu, baobab, wild blackberry seed, black cumin, blackcurrant seed, blueberry, borage, Brazil nut, broccoli seed, buriti, calendula, camellia seed, canola, copaiba balsam, sweet chestnut (yangu), carrot (daucus carota), castor, chardonnay grape, chaulmoogra, cherry kernel, Salvia hispanica seed, chickweed, codo nut, fractionated coconut, cottonseed, comfrey, corn, crambé seed, cranberry seed, cucumber seed, echium seed, evening primrose, emu, seeds flaxseed, grape seeds, hazelnut, hemp seeds, chestnut seeds, jojoba, karanj seeds, kiwi seeds, kukui nuts, macadamia nuts, marula, marshmallow, manketti, meadowfoam (limnanthe), milk thistle seeds, moringa, mullein, mustard seeds, neem, olive, palm, papaya seed, passionflower seed, peach kernel, peanut, perilla, pomegranate, pumpkin seed, raspberry seed, rice bran, rosehip, St. John's wort oil, safflower, sea buckthorn pulp, shea butter oil, roasted sesame, sesame seed, soybean, sunflower, tamanu (Calophyllum In-ophyllum), thistle, tomato, sulfonated castor oil, sangre de drago, walnut, watermelon seed, wheat germ, and any combination thereof.In a preferred embodiment, the low polarity oils are a natural oil selected from olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like, and mixtures thereof.
[0059] In various embodiments, the styling composition is free or essentially free of silicone oils, regardless of polarity. In fact, in various embodiments, the styling composition may be free or essentially free of all silicone-containing materials (silicone oils, silicone-containing emulsifiers, silicone elastomers, etc.).
[0060] The quantity of one or more weakly polar oils in styling compositions is typically at least about 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the styling composition. However, in various embodiments, the quantity ranges from about 72% to about 95% by weight of one or more weakly polar oils, based on the total weight of the styling composition. In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes approximately 90% by weight, approximately 72 to approximately 88% by weight, approximately 72 to approximately 85% by weight, approximately 75 to approximately 95% by weight, approximately 75 to approximately 90% by weight, approximately 75 to approximately 88% by weight, approximately 75 to approximately 85% by weight, approximately 80 to approximately 95% by weight, approximately 80 to approximately 90% by weight, or approximately 80 to approximately 85% by weight of one or more weakly polar oils, based on a total weight of the styling composition. Alkoxylated polyol ester
[0061] The styling composition optionally includes or excludes (or is essentially free of) one or more alkoxylated polyol esters. In a preferred embodiment, the styling composition includes one or more alkoxylated polyol esters. Non-limiting examples of alkoxylated polyol esters include pegylated derivatives of propylene glycol oleate, propylene glycol caprylate / caprate, propylene glycol cocoate, propylene glycol stearate, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the alkoxylated polyol esters may be selected from PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-6 propylene glycol caprylate / caprate, PEG-8 propylene glycol cocoate, PEG-25 propylene glycol stearate, and PEG-120 propylene glycol stearate, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, one or more alkoxylated polyol esters are selected from PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-6 propylene glycol caprylate / caprate, PEG-8 propylene glycol cocoate, PEG-25 propylene glycol stearate, and PEG-120 propylene glycol stearate, and mixtures thereof. PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate is a particularly useful alkoxylated polyol ester.
[0062] The quantity of one or more alkoxylated polyol esters in the styling composition, if any, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the styling composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more alkoxylated polyol esters, based on the total weight of the hair composition. In other embodiments, the styling composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 1 to approximately 4% by weight of one or more alkoxylated polyol esters, based on a total weight of the styling composition. Water-soluble organic solvent
[0063] The styling composition optionally includes or excludes (or is essentially free of) one or more water-soluble organic solvents. In a preferred embodiment, the styling composition includes one or more water-soluble organic solvents.
[0064] The expression "water-soluble organic solvent" is interchangeable with the expressions "water-soluble solvent" and "water-miscible solvent" and means a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, water-soluble solvents have a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., Cm2, Cmo, Ci8, or Ci4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof.
[0065] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include monoalcohols and polyols such as: ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or their ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, are examples of organic solvents. Other suitable examples of organic solvents include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propanediol, and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.
[0066] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether,diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, and dipropylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether; 2-Pyrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-Dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane, and mixtures thereof.
[0067] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds can also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-l,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-l,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-l,2-diol and 2-ethyl-l,3-hexanediol and a mixture of the latter.
[0068] The quantity of one or more water-soluble organic solvents in the hair treatment composition, if any, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the styling composition includes from approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more water-soluble organic solvents, based on the total weight of the styling composition. In other embodiments, the styling composition comprises from approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 6% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, from approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, and from approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight. % by weight, from about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 6% by weight, or about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more water-soluble organic solvents, based on a total weight of the styling composition.. Film-forming polymers
[0069] The styling composition may optionally include or exclude (or be essentially free of) one or more film-forming polymers, for example, one or more nonionic film-forming polymers, one or more amphoteric film-forming polymers, or a combination thereof. In various embodiments, the hair styling composition is free of, or essentially free of, film-forming polymers.
[0070] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic film-forming polymers include vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers; vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers; polyalkyloxazolines; vinyl acetate homopolymers; vinyl acetate and acrylic ester copolymers; vinyl acetate and ethylene copolymers; vinyl acetate and maleic ester copolymers; polyethylene and maleic anhydride copolymers; alkyl acrylate homopolymers and alkyl methacrylate homopolymers; acrylic ester copolymers; acrylonitrile and non-ionic monomer copolymers and mixtures thereof. In some cases, particularly useful non-ionic film-forming polymers include vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate (VP / VA) copolymer.In some cases, the nonionic film-forming polymers in this disclosure are selected from the group consisting of vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers (INCI name: polyvinylpyrrolidone) are commercially available from [source missing]. Ashland Specialty Ingredients, under the trade name PVP K, is a copolymer of vinyl acetate and vinyl acetate (INCI name: VP / VA copolymer). These copolymers are commercially available from BASF under the trade name Luviskol VA.
[0071] Non-limiting examples of amphoteric film-forming polymers include: 1. Polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, α-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one base atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates and acrylates, dialkylammetha-crylamides and α-acrylamides; 2. Polymers containing motifs derived from:
[0072] a) at least one monomer selected from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by an alkyl radical,
[0073] b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups and
[0074] c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters containing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and metha-crylic acids and the product of the quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
[0075] The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides that may be useful are groups in which the alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
[0076] Acid comonomers include acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acid or anhydrides.
[0077] In some cases, the preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N'-dimethylaminoethyl, and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. An octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer such as the products marketed under the name Amphomer or Balance 47 (formerly Lovocryl 47) by Akzo Nobel may be used. 1. Crosslinked and alkylated polyaminoamides, partially or totally derived. 2. Polymers containing zwitterionic motifs of the formula:
[0078] in which Rn denotes an unsaturated polymerizable group, such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3, Rn and Rn represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl or propyl, and R[4 and Ri5 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R[4 and Ri5 does not exceed 10.
[0079] Polymers comprising such motifs may also contain motifs derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate, or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate:
[0080] By way of example, we can cite the methyl methacrylate / dimethyl carboxymethylammonio methyl ethyl methacrylate copolymer. 1. Chitosan-derived polymers. 2. Polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N- carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan marketed under the name "Evalsan" by the company Jan Dekker. 3. Polymers corresponding to the general formula:
[0081] wherein R2o represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O, CH3CH2O or phenyl radical, R2[ denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl, R22 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl, R23 designates a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl or a radical corresponding to the formula: —R.sub.24-N(R22).sub.2, R24 representing a -CH2 -CH2, -CH2-CH2-CH2— or -CH2-CH(CH3) group, R22 having the meanings mentioned above, as well as higher aldehydes of these radicals and containing up to 6 carbon atoms. 1. Amphoteric polymers of the -DXDX type selected from: a. Polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds containing at least one formula unit:
[0082] -DXDXD- (I)
[0083] where D denotes a radical
[0084] and X denotes the symbol E or E', E or E', which may be identical or different, denotes a divalent radical which is an alkylene radical containing a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups and which may contain, in addition to oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, oxide, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenamine, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and / or urethane. a. Polymers with the following formula:
[0085] -DXDX- (!')
[0086] in which D denotes a radical
[0087] and X denotes the symbol E or E' and at least once E'; E having the meaning given above and E' is a divalent radical which is an alkylene radical with a straight or branched chain having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals and containing one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being constituted by an alkyl chain which is optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily containing one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate. 1. Copolymers of (Cl-C5)alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride, the maleic anhydride being partially modified by semiamidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semiesterification with an N,N-dialkanolamine. These copolymers may also contain other vinyl comonomers such as vinyl caprolactam.
[0088] Film-forming amphoteric polymers that may be particularly useful are those of family (3), such as copolymers whose CTFA name is oc-tylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products marketed under the names Amphomer LV 71 by the company Akzo Nobel. In some cases, one or more amphoteric film-forming polymers are selected from the group consisting of:
[0089] (i) polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a compound vinylic bearing a carboxylic group selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid and α-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinylic compound containing at least one base atom;
[0090] (ii) polymers containing motifs derived from:
[0091] a) at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by an alkyl radical,
[0092] b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups and
[0093] c) at least one basic comonomer ester containing primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids or the product of the quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate;
[0094] (iii) crosslinked and alkylated polyaminoamides partially or totally derived from polyaminoamides and
[0095] (iv) methyl methacrylate / carboxymethyl-ammoniomethylethyl dimethyl methacrylate copolymers.
[0096] The quantity of one or more non-ionic thickening polymers, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the styling composition includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more polymers. film-forming agents, preferably one or more non-ionic film-forming polymers, based on the total weight of the styling composition. In other embodiments, the styling composition includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight, from approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, from approximately 0.05 to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 0.05 to approximately 8% by weight, from approximately 0.05 to approximately 6% by weight, from approximately 0.05 to approximately 5% by weight, from approximately 0.05 to approximately 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more film-forming polymers, preferably non-ionic film-forming polymers, based on a total weight of the styling composition. Cationic conditioning polymers
[0097] The capping composition may optionally include or exclude (or be essentially free of) one or more cationic conditioning polymers. In various embodiments, the capping composition is free or essentially free of cationic conditioning polymers.
[0098] Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers include copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and l-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (called Polyquaternium-16); copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (called Polyquaternium-11); cationic polymer containing a quaternary diallyl ammonium including, for example, the homopolymer of dimethyldiallyammonium chloride and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride (called Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7); polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives. Cationic cellulose is available as hydroxyethylcellulose salts that have reacted with a trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide (designated as Polyquatemium-10).Another type of cationic cellulose includes polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with a lauryl dimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide (called Polyquatemium-24). In addition, or alternatively, cationic conditioning polymers may include, or be selected from, cationic derivatives of guar gum, such as hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride.
[0099] In some embodiments, the cationic conditioning polymer(s) include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose, cationic starch, and cationic guar gum. In the context of this disclosure, cationic polysaccharide polymers include cationic polysaccharides and cationic polysaccharide derivatives (e.g., derivatives to be cationic), for example, resulting in cationic cellulose (cellulose derived to be cationic), cationic starch (derived to be cationic), cationic guar (guar derived to be cationic).
[0100] Non-limiting examples of cationic celluloses include hydroxyethylcellulose (also known as HEC), hydroxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose (also known as HPC), hydroxybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose (also known as methyl hydroxyethylcellulose) and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (also known as HPMC), cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, and mixtures thereof, preferably polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, and mixtures thereof.
[0101] Non-limiting examples of cationic guar include hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride,
[0102] Non-limiting examples of cationic starch include starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, oxidized hydroxypropyltrimonium starch PGtrimonium chloride, and a mixture of the latter.
[0103] In various embodiments, the cationic conditioning polymer(s) are chosen from polyquaterniums. Non-limiting examples include Poly-quatemium-1 (ethanol, 2,2',2"-nitrilotris-, polymer with 1,4-dichloro-2-butene and N,N,N',N'-tetramethyl-2-butene-1,4-diamine), Polyquatemium-2 (poly[bis(2-chloroethyl) ether-alt-1,3-bis[3-(dimethylamino)propyl]urea]), Poly-quatemium-4 (copolymer of hydroxyethylcellulose and diallylammonium chloride; diallyldimethylammonium chloride-hydroxyethylcellulose copolymer), Polyquatemium-5 (copolymer of acrylamide and quaternized dhne-ethylammonium methacrylate), Polyquaternium-6 (poly(dialyldimethylammonium chloride)), Polyquaternium-7 (copolymer of acrylamide and chloride diallyldimethylammonium), Polyquatemium-8 (methyl ester copolymer and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylic acid, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate),Polyquaternium-9 (quaternized N,N-(dimethylamino)ethyl methacrylic acid ester homopolymer with bromomethane), Polyquaternium-10 (quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose), Polyquaternium-11 (quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer), Polyquaternium-12 (quaternized ethyl methacrylate / abietyl methacrylate / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer with dimethyl sulfate), Polyquaternium-13 (quaternized ethyl methacrylate / oleyl methacrylate / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer with dimethyl sulfate), Polyquaternium-14 (homopolymer of trimethylaminoethyl methacrylate), the, Polyquaternium-15 (acrylamide methyl chloride and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer),
[0104] Polyquatemium-16 (vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized copolymer), Polyquatemium-17 (adipic acid; dimethylaminopropylamine and dichloroethyl ether copolymer), Polyquatemium-18 (azelanic acid, dimethylaminopropylamine, and dichloroethyl ether copolymer), Polyquatemium-19 (poly(vinyl alcohol) and 2,3-epoxypropylamine copolymer), Polyquatemium-20 (poly(vinyl octadecyl ether) and 2,3-epoxypropylamine copolymer), Polyquaternium-22 (acrylic acid and diallyldimethylammonium chloride copolymer), Polyquaternium-24 (quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with a lauryl dimethylammonium substituted epoxide), Polyquatemium-27 (sequenced copolymer of Polyquaternium-2 and Polyquaternium-17), Polyquaternium-28 (copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and me-thacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium), Polyquaternium-29 (chitosan modified with propylene oxide and quaternized with epichlorohydrin),Polyquaternium-30 (ethanaminium, N-(carboxymethyl)-N,N-dimethyl-2-[(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propen-1-yl)oxy]-, internal salt, polymer with methyl 2-methyl-2-propenoate), Polyquaternium-31 (N,N-dimethylaminopropyl-N-acrylamidine quaternized with diethyl sulfate linked to a polyacrylonitrile sequence), Polyquaternium-32 (poly(acrylamide 2-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride)), Polyquaternium-33 (copolymer of trimethylaminoethyl acrylate salt and acrylamide), Polyquaternium-34 (copolymer of 1,3-dibromopropane and N,N-diethyl-N',N'-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine), Polyquaternium-35 (methosulfate of the copolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium and methacryloyloxyethyldimethylacetylammonium), Poly-quatemium-36 (quaternized copolymer of N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and butyl methacrylate, . ,
[0105] with dimethyl sulfate), Polyquaternium-37 (chloride of poly(2-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium)), Polyquaternium-39 (acrylic acid, acrylamide, and diallyldimethylammonium chloride terpolymer), Polyquaternium-42 (poly[oxyethylene(dimethylimino)ethylene(dimethylimino)ethylene] dichloride), Polyquaternium-43 (acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamide sulfonate, and dimethylaminopropylamine copolymer), Polyquaternium-44 (3-methyl-1-vinylimidazolium-N-vinylpyrrolidone methyl sulfate copolymer), Polyquaternium-45 ((N-methyl-N-ethoxyglycine) methacrylate and N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), Polyquaternium-46 (quaternized N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer) with dimethyl sulfate), Polyquaternium-47 (acrylic acid terpolymer, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and methyl acrylate) and / or Polyquaternium-67.
[0106] In various embodiments, the cationic conditioning polymer(s) are selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, quatemized hydroxyethylcellulose (e.g., polyquaternium-10), cationic starch derivatives, cationic guar gum derivatives, acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride copolymers (e.g., poly-quatemium-7), polyquaterniums, and a mixture of the latter. For example, the cationic polymer(s) can be chosen from among the polyquaterniums, for example, polyquaterniums selected from polyquatemium-4, polyquatemium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-67, and a mixture thereof. A combination of two or more polyquaterniums can be useful. A particularly preferred and useful cationic polymer is polyquaternium-10.
[0107] Les polymères cationiques peuvent être des polyquaterniums. Dans certains modes de réalisation, les tensioactifs cationiques peuvent être des polyquaterniums choisis parmi les polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, poly-quatemium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, poly-quatemium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, poly-quatemium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, poly-quatemium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, poly-quatemium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, poly-quatemium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, poly-quatemium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, poly-quatemium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, poly-quatemium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52,polyquaternium-53, poly-quaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, poly-quaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, poly-quaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, poly-quatemium-66, polyquaternium-67, etc. In some cases, preferred poly-quatemium compounds include polyquaternium-10, polyquatemium-11, poly-quatemium-67, and a mixture thereof. ,
[0108] In some embodiments, the cationic conditioning polymer(s) are selected from cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates (for example, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein), quaternary diammonium polymers (e.g., hexadimethrin chloride), acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0109] Cationic conditioning polymers may be homopolymers or formed from two or more types of monomers. The molecular weight of the polymer may be between 5,000 and 10,000,000, typically at least 10,000, and preferably in the range of 100,000 to about 2,000,000. These polymers will typically have nitrogen-containing cationic groups such as quaternary or amino-protonated ammonium groups, or a mixture thereof.
[0110] The cationic charge density is suitably at least 0.1 meq / g, preferably greater than 0.8 or more. In some cases, the cationic charge density does not exceed 3 meq / g, or does not exceed 2 meq / g. The charge density can be measured by the Kjeldahl method and can be within the above limits at the desired pH of use, which will generally be between approximately 3 and 9 and preferably between 4 and 8.
[0111] The nitrogen-containing cationic group will generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic conditioning polymer. Thus, when the polymer is not a homopolymer, it may contain non-cationic monomer spacer units.
[0112] Suitable cationic conditioning polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water-soluble spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth)acrylamides, alkyl (meth)acrylate, vinyl-caprolactone, and [other monomers]. The alkyl- and dialkyl-substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, or even better, C1-C3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol, and ethylene glycol.
[0113] Cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending on the particular species and the pH of the composition.
[0114] Amine-substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized into amines and then converted into ammonium by quaternization.
[0115] Suitable quaternary amino and ammonium cationic monomers include, for example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium salt, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium salt, quaternary diallyl-ammonium salts and quaternary vinyl-ammonium monomers having nitrogen-containing cationic cyclic rings, such as pyridinium, rimidazolium and quaternary pyrrolidine, For example, alkyl vinyl imidazolium and quaternized pyrrolidine salts, such as alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinyl pyridinium, and alkyl vinyl pyrrolidine salts. The alkyl portions of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1-C3 alkyls, or even better, C1-C2 alkyls.
[0116] Suitable amine-substituted vinyl monomers include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably Ci-C7 hydrocarbyls, better still Ci-C3 hydrocarbyls.
[0117] Cationic conditioning polymers may include mixtures of monomer motifs derived from quaternary amine and / or ammonium substituted monomers and / or compatible spacer monomers.
[0118] Suitable cationic conditioning polymers include, for example: copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and l-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (called Polyquaternium-16) such as those commercially available from BASF under the brand name LUVIQUAT (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (called Polyquaternium-11) such as those marketed by Gar Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the brand name GAFQUAT (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N); and a cationic polymer containing quaternary diallyl ammonium including, for example, a homopolymer of dimethyldiallyammonium chloride and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride (called Polyquatemium-6 and Polyquaternium-7).
[0119] Other cationic conditioning polymers that can be used include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives. Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR (registered trademark) and LR (registered trademark) polymer lines, in the form of hydroxyethylcellulose salts that have reacted with a trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide (called Polyquaternium-10). Another type of cationic cellulose includes polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with a lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide (called Polyquaternium-24). These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the trade name Polymer LM-200.
[0120] Other cationic conditioning polymers that can be used include cationic guar gum derivatives, such as hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride.
[0121] Polyquaterniums include Polyquaternium-1 (ethanol, 2,2',2" -nitrilotris-, polymer with 1,4-dichloro-2-butene and N,N,N',N'-tetramethyl-2-butene-1,4-diamine), Polyquaternium-2, (poly[bis(2-chloroethyl) ether-alt-1,3-bis[3-(dimethylamino)propyl]urea]), Polyquaternium-4, (copolymer of hydroxyethylcellulose and diallylammonium chloride; the copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and hydroxyethylcellulose), Polyquaternium-5 (copolymer of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylammonium methacrylate), Polyquaternium-6 (poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride)), Polyquaternium-7 (copolymer of acrylamide and diallyldimethylammonium chloride), Polyquaternium-8 (copolymer of methyl ester and stearyl dimethylaminoethyl methacrylic acid, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), Polyquaternium-9 (homopolymer of N,N-(dimethylamino)ethyl methacrylic acid ester, quaternized with bromomethane), Polyquaternium-10 (quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose),Polyquaternium-11 (copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate), Polyquaternium-12 (copolymer of ethyl methacrylate / abietyl methacrylate / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), Polyquaternium-13 (copolymer of ethyl methacrylate / oleyl methacrylate / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), Polyquaternium-14 (homopolymer of trimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and methyl chloride), Polyquaternium-16 (copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized vinylimidazole), Polyquaternium-17 (adipic acid, copolymer of dimethylaminopropylamine and dichloroether), Polyquaternium-18 (zelanic acid, copolymer of dimethylaminopropylamine and dichloroether), Polyquaternium-19 (copolymer of polyvinyl alcohol and 2,3-epoxypropylamine), Polyquaternium-20 (copolymer of polyvinyl octadecyl ether and 2,3-epoxypropylamine),Polyquaternium-22 (acrylic acid and diallyldimethylammonium chloride copolymer), Polyquaternium-24 (hydroxyethylethyl auto-ammonium salt reacting with a substituted lauryldimethyl oxide), Polyquatemium (polyquaternium-2 and polyquaternium-28 copolymer), Polyquaternium (vinylpyracrylateone and methamidomethyl copolymer), Polyquaternium-29 (chitosan modified with propylene oxide and quaternized with epichlorohydrin), Polyquaternium-30 (ethanaminium, N-(carboxymethyl)-N,N-dimethyl-2-[(2-methyl-l-oxo-2-propen-l-yl)oxy]), internal salt, polymer with 2-methyl-2-propenoate), Polyquaternium-31 (N,N- Quaternized dimethylaminopropyl-N-acrylamidine with diethyl sulfate linked to a polyacrylonitrile block, Polyquaternium-32 (poly(acrylamide chloride of 2-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium)), Polyquaternium-33 (copolymer of trimethylaminoethylacrylate salt and acrylamide), Polyquaternium-34 (copolymer of 1,3-dibromopropane and N,N-diethyl-N',N'-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine), the Poly- , quatemium-35 (methosulfate of the copolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl-lammonium and methacryloyloxyethyldimethylacetylammonium), Poly-quatemium-36 (copolymer of N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and butyl methacrylate, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), Polyquaternium-37 (poly(2-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium) chloride), Polyquaternium-39 (terpolymer of acrylic acid, acrylamide and diallyldimethyl-lammonium chloride), Polyquatemium-42 (dichloride of poly[oxyethylene(dimethylimino)ethylene (dimethylimino)ethylene]), Poly-quatemium-43 (copolymer of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamide sulfonate and dimethylaminopropylamine), Poly-quatemium-44 (3-methyl-l-vinylimidazolium-N-vinylpyrrolidone methyl sulfate copolymer), Polyquatemium-45 (copolymer of (N-methyl-N-ethoxyglycine) methacrylate and N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate),Polyquaternium-46 (a terpolymer of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, and quaternized vinylimidazole) and Polyquaternium-47 (a terpolymer of acrylic acid, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, and methyl acrylate).
[0122] The quantity of the cationic conditioning polymer(s), if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the styling composition includes from approximately 0.01 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more cationic conditioning polymers, based on the total weight of the hair composition.In other embodiments, the styling composition includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, and approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight of one or more conditioning polymers cationic compounds based on the total weight of the styling composition. Non-ionic surfactants
[0123] The styling composition may optionally include or exclude (or be essentially free of) one or more nonionic surfactants. Non-limiting examples of nonionic surfactants include: 1. Polyethylene oxide condensates of alkylphenols, for example, the condensation products of alkylated phenols having an alkyl group containing from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms in a straight-chain or branched-chain configuration, said ethylene oxide being present in quantities equal to approximately 10 to approximately 60 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alkylphenol; 1. those derived from the condensation of ethylene oxide with the product resulting from the reaction of propylene oxide and ethylenediamine products; 2. Condensation products of aliphatic alcohols comprising from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, in straight-chain or branched-chain configurations, with ethylene oxide, for example, an ethylene oxide condensate of coconut alcohol comprising from about 10 to about 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of coconut alcohol, the coconut alcohol fraction comprising from about 10 to about 14 carbon atoms; 3. Long-chain tertiary amine oxides of formula [R'R2R3NO] where R1 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical of about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, 0 to about 10 fractions of ethylene oxide, and 0 to about 1 fraction of glyceryl, and R2 and R3 contain about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms and 0 to about 1 hydroxy group, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl; 4. Long-chain tertiary phosphine oxides of formula [RR'R"PO] where R contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical ranging from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms in chain length, from 0 to about 10 fractions of ethylene oxide and from 0 to 1 fraction of glyceryl and R' and R" are each alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; 5. Long-chain dialkyl sulfoxides containing a short-chain alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical of 1 to about 3 carbon atoms (usually methyl) and a long hydrophobic chain which includes alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxyalkyl or ketoalkyl radicals containing about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms, 0 to about 10 fractions of ethylene oxide and 0 to 1 fraction of glyceryl; 6. Alkyl polysaccharide (APS) surfactants (e.g., alkyl polyglycosides), including APS surfactants having a hydrophobic group with approximately 6 to approximately 30 carbon atoms and a polysaccharide (e.g., the polyglycoside) as the hydrophilic group; optionally, there may be a polyalkylene oxide group joining the hydrophobic and hydrophilic fractions; and the alkyl group (i.e., the hydrophobic fraction) may be saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and unsubstituted or substituted (e.g., with hydroxyl or cyclic rings); a preferred material is the alkyl polyglucoside, which is commercially available from Henkel, ICI Americas, and Seppic and 7. Polyoxyethylenated alkyl ethers such as those of formula RO(CH2CH2O)n H and fatty glyceryl esters of polyethylene glycol (PEG), such as those of formula R(O)OCH2CH(OH)CH2(OCH 2CH2)nOH, where n ranges from 1 to about 200, preferably from about 20 to about 100, and R is an alkyl containing from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms.
[0124] Polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides as described above (8) useful in this document include mono-, di-, and tri-glyceride derivatives and mixtures thereof. A class of polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides suitable here is that which conforms to the general formula (I): O : £COCH2ÇH(OH)CH2(OCH^
[0125] Where n, the degree of ethoxylation, is from about 4 to about 200, preferably from about 5 to about 150, better still from about 20 to about 120, and where R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25 carbon atoms, preferably from about 7 to about 20 carbon atoms. Suitable polyethylene glycol glyceride derivatives may be hydrogenated castor oil polyethylene glycol derivatives. Such polyethylene glycol derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil include, for example, PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil.
[0126] Other suitable polyethylene glycol glyceride derivatives may be polyethylene glycol stearic acid derivatives. Such polyethylene glycol stearic acid derivatives include, for example, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-75 stearate, PEG-90 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-120 stearate and PEG-150 stearate.
[0127] Ethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols, as described in (3) or (8) above, useful here include all ethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in a hair conditioning composition. Non-limiting examples of ethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols include: the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, preferably ceteth-7 to ceteth-20; the isoceteth series of compounds such as isoceteth-20; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 to 100; ceteareth-1 to ceteareth-50; the laureth series of compounds, preferably laureth-7 to laureth-12; the pareth series of compounds, preferably pareth-9 to pareth-15; the propylene glycol ethers of the above series of compounds ceteth, steareth, ceteareth and laureth, the series of propylene glycol ethers of ceteth, including, for example, PPG-5-ceteth-20; polyoxyethylene ethers or polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene ethers of branched alcohols, such as, for example, octyldodecyl alcohol, decyltetradecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, and polyoxyethylenated-polyoxypropylene ethers of branched alcohols including, for example, decyl ether POE(20)POP(6) and mixtures thereof.
[0128] Other useful nonionic surfactants here include, for example, polysorbates such as polysorbate-20 (POE(20) sorbitan monolaurate) having an HLB value of 16.7, polysorbate-21 (POE(4) sorbitan monolaurate) having an HLB value of 13.3, polysorbate-40 (POE(20) sorbitan monopalmitate) having an HLB value of 15.6, polysorbate-60 (POE(20) sorbitan monostearate) having an HLB value of 14.9, polysorbate-61 (POE(4) sorbitan monostearate) having an HLB value of 9.6, polysorbate-80 (POE(20) sorbitan monooleate) having an HLB value of 15.0, and polysorbate-81 (POE(4) sorbitan monooleate) having an HLB value of 10.0.
[0129] In one embodiment, one or more nonionic surfactants are selected from the group consisting of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, steareth-2, steareth-20, polysorbate 60, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, glyceryl citrate stearate, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the one or more nonionic surfactants include PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
[0130] The total quantity of one or more nonionic surfactants in the styling composition, if present, will vary. In various embodiments, the styling composition includes from approximately 0.01 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more nonionic surfactants, based on the total weight of the hair composition.In other embodiments, the styling composition includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, and approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% based on the total weight of the composition. Hairstyling. Additional fatty compounds
[0131] Styling compositions may optionally include or exclude (or be substantially free from) one or more of the additional fatty compounds. The additional fatty compounds are compounds other than: (a) one or more fatty amides, fatty alkanolamides and / or alkoxylated fatty amides; (b) one or more non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids and (c) one or more hydroxysubstituted fatty acids. In various embodiments, the styling composition is free or substantially free of fatty compounds.
[0132] Non-limiting examples of additional fatty compounds include fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives (such as alkoxylated fatty acids or polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids or propylene glycol esters of fatty acids or butylene glycol esters of fatty acids or neopentyl glycol and fatty acid esters or polyglycerol / glycerol esters of fatty acids or glycol diesters or ethylene glycol and fatty acid diesters or fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, short-chain alcohol and fatty acid esters), fatty alcohol esters, waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, and mixtures thereof.
[0133] Hydroxysubstituted alcohols include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols may be straight-chain or branched-chain alcohols and may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cholesterol, cis-4-t-butylohexanol, myricyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof. In some cases, fatty alcohols are those selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and a mixture of these.
[0134] Fatty alcohol derivatives include alkyl fatty alcohol ethers, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohol alkyl ethers, fatty alcohol esters, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives include materials such as stearyl methyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether, stearyl acetate, cetyl propionate, the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 to ceteth-45, which are cetyl alcohol ethylene glycol ethers, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol fractions present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 to steareth-10, which are steareth alcohol ethylene ethers, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol fractions present;ceteareth-1 to ceteareth-10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e., a mixture of fatty alcohols containing mainly cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol fractions present; the C1-C30 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth, and ceteareth compounds described above; the polyoxyethylenated ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol, and isostearyl alcohol; the polyoxy- ethers; thylenes of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers such as PPG-9-steareth-3, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG8-ceteth-1 and PPG-10 cetyl ether and mixtures thereof.
[0135] Non-limiting polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include those of the following formula: OR2 RMOCH2~CH-CH2OkR3
[0136] wherein the average value of n is approximately 3 and R1, R2, and R3 can each independently be a fatty acid fraction or hydrogen, provided that at least one of the fractions R1, R2, and R3 is a fatty acid fraction. For example, R1, R2, and R3 can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length in the range of Ci-C40, Ci-C30, CrC25, or Ci-C20, Ci-C6, or Ci-Ci0. For example, nonionic polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids include polyglyceryl-5 laurate,
[0137] Fatty acid derivatives are defined in this document to include fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols as defined above, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohol derivatives as defined above when such fatty alcohol derivatives have an esterifiable hydroxyl group, fatty acid esters of alcohols other than fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol derivatives described above, hydro-substituted fatty acids, and a mixture thereof.Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives include ricinoleic acid, glyceryl monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl polyoxyethylenated stearate ether, stearyl polyoxyethylenated stearate ether, lauryl polyoxyethylenated stearate ether, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylenated monostearate, polyoxyethylenated distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and mixtures thereof. Glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof are preferred for this use.
[0138] In some cases, the additional one or more fatty compounds may be one or more high-melting-point fatty compounds. A high-melting-point fatty compound is a fatty compound having a melting point of 25°C or higher. Even higher-melting-point fatty compounds may also be used, for example, fatty compounds having a melting point of 40°C or higher, 45°C or higher, or 50°C or higher. High-melting-point fatty compounds may be selected from fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of high-melting-point compounds are given in The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifteenth Edition, 2014. Non-limiting examples of high-melting-point fatty compounds include fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol (with a melting point of approximately 56°C), stearyl alcohol (with a melting point of approximately 58-59°C), behenyl alcohol (with a melting point of approximately 71°C), and mixtures thereof. These compounds are known to have the above melting points. However, they often have lower melting points when supplied, as these supplied products are frequently mixtures of fatty alcohols with an alkyl chain length distribution in which the main alkyl chain is the cetyl, stearyl, or behenyl group.
[0139] The total quantity of one or more additional fatty compounds, if any, will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the styling composition includes from approximately 0.01 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more additional fatty compounds based on the total weight of the hair composition.In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, and approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight of one or more additional fatty compounds based on of the total weight of the styling product. Thickening agents
[0140] The styling composition optionally includes or excludes (or is essentially free of) one or more thickening agents. These "thickening agents" may be referred to as "thickeners" or "viscosity-modifying agents." Thickening agents are typically included to increase the viscosity of cosmetic compositions.
[0141] Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia seneca gum, sclerotia gum, agarose, pechtin, gellan gum, and hyaluronic acid. In addition, one or more thickening agents may include polymeric thickening agents selected from the group consisting of an ammonium polyacryloyl-dimethyl taurate copolymer, an ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP, a sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymers, a polyacrylamide, a carbomer, and a C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer. In some cases, the composition includes ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate and / or sodium polyacrylate.
[0142] Specific types of thickening agents that may be mentioned include the following compounds:
[0143] homopolymer or copolymer based on carboxylic acid or carboxylate, which may be linear or cross-linked:
[0144] These polymers contain one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids (acrylates) and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available polymers include those marketed under the trade names Carbopol, Acrysol, Polygel, Sokalan, Carbopol Ultrez, and Polygel. Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol. Carbomers are available in BF Goodrich's Carbopol 900 series (e.g., Carbopol 954). In addition, other suitable carboxylic acid polymeric agents include Ultrez 10 (BFGoodrich) and C10-30 alkyl acrylate copolymers with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their short-chain esters (i.e., a Cl-4 alcohol), wherein the crosslinking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as C10-C30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers and are commercially available under the names Carbopol 1342, Carbopol 1382, Pemulen TR-1, and Pemulen TR-2, from BF Goodrich.
[0145] Other suitable polymeric carboxylic acid or carboxylate agents include C5-C10 alkyl acrylic acid-acrylate copolymers, acrylic acid-maleic anhydride copolymers, and polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6. Polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 is available in the raw material known as Seppic's SEPIMAX ZEN.
[0146] Another suitable carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymer agent includes acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylates copolymer, a cationic acrylates copolymer (or a quaternary ammonium compound), available as a raw material known under the Seppic brand name SIMULQUAT HC 305.
[0147] In some embodiments, the polymer thickening agents of carboxylic acid or carboxylate useful here are those selected from carbomers, C10-C30 alkyl acrylate / acrylate crosslinked polymers, polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
[0148] Polyquaternium compounds:
[0149] Non-limiting examples include the following compounds: polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, poly- quatemium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, poly-quaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, poly-quaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21, poly-quaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, poly-quaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, poly-quaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, poly-quaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, poly-quaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, etc.In some cases, preferred polyquaternium compounds include polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof.
[0150] Celluloses:
[0151] Non-limiting examples of celluloses include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the cellulose is selected from water-soluble cellulose derivatives (e.g., carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, sodium salt of cellulose sulfate). In addition, in some cases, the cellulose is preferably hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC).
[0152] Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and copolymers:
[0153] Non-limiting examples include polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) / vinyl acetate copolymer (PVP / VA copolymer), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) / eicosene copolymer, PVP / hexadecene copolymer, etc. Commercially available polyvinylpyrrolidone includes Luviskol K30, K85, and K90, available from BASF. Commercially available vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers include Luviskol VA37 and VA64, available from BASF; vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide, and vinylimidazole copolymer (INCI: VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer) is commercially available from BASF under the name Luviset. In some cases, PVP and the PVP / VA copolymer are preferred.
[0154] Sucrose esters:
[0155] Non-limiting examples include sucrose palmitate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose monooctanoate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose mono- or dilaurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose mono- or dipalmitate, sucrose mono- and distearate, sucrose mono-, di- or trioleate, sucrose mono- or dilinoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate or sucrose octooleate, and mixed esters, such as sucrose palmitate / stearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0156] Erasers:
[0157] Non-limiting examples of gums include gum arabic, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, carob gum, tamarind gum, xanthan gum, carob gum, Seneca gum, sclerotium gum, gellan gum, etc.
[0158] The total quantity of one or more thickening agents, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the styling composition includes from approximately 0.01 to approximately 8% by weight of one or more thickening agent compounds based on the total weight of the styling composition. In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, and approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight of one or more thickening agents, relative to the total weight of the styling composition. Miscellaneous ingredients
[0159] The styling composition optionally includes or excludes (or is essentially free from) one or more miscellaneous ingredients. In a preferred embodiment, the styling composition includes one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with hair coloring compositions and that do not disrupt or materially affect the fundamental and innovative properties of the compositions. Non-limiting examples of ingredients include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), compositional colorants, etc.In various embodiments, the various ingredients are selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, compositional colorants, and mixtures thereof. In the . For the purposes of this disclosure, a "composition colorant" is a compound that colors the composition but does not have a noticeable coloring effect on hair. In other words, the composition colorant is included to give the composition color for aesthetic purposes but is not intended to impart coloring properties to hair. Hair gels, for example, may come in a variety of different colors (e.g., light blue, light pink, etc.), but applying the hair gel to the hair does not visibly change the hair color.
[0160] In addition to the above, the following components described as optional components in the disclosure are also miscellaneous ingredients unless expressly stated as independent components of the styling composition: alkoxylated polyol esters (e), water-soluble organic compounds (f), film-forming polymers (j), cationic conditioning polymers (h), surfactants (nonionic (i) anionic, cationic, and amphoteric / zwitterionic), additional fatty compounds (j), or a combination thereof. Thus, the term "miscellaneous ingredient" is understood as a catch-all phrase representing additional components that may be present in quantities designated as miscellaneous ingredients.
[0161] The quantity of one or more miscellaneous ingredients in the styling composition, if any, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the styling composition includes from approximately 0.01 to approximately 8% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients based on the total weight of the styling composition. In other embodiments, the styling composition includes from approximately 0.01 to approximately 6% by weight, from approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight, from approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, from approximately 0.05 to approximately 8% by weight, from approximately 0.05 to approximately 6% by weight, from approximately 0.05 to approximately 5% by weight, from approximately 0.05 to approximately 3% by weight, on the based on the total weight of the styling composition. Shapes
[0162] Styling compositions can be in a variety of different forms, for example, wax, gel, paste, clay, pomade, etc. These compositions generally have a more solid or thicker consistency at rest (or when subjected to only slight shear force), but when subjected to more vigorous physical manipulation (when subjected to a stronger shear force such as rubbing the product between the palms or hands), the compositions transform into a more liquid consistency. This liquid consistency facilitates the application of the styling composition to the hair. After styling, the styling compositions return to their more solid or thicker consistency, which improves the durability and hold of the hairstyle.
[0163] The viscosity of the hairspray compositions can be determined using methods known for measuring viscosity. For example, viscosity is measured with a TA Instruments Discovery HR-2 rheometer at 25°C using parallel sandblasted plates of 40 mm, a gap of 300 µm and a shear range of 0.1 / s to 100 / s.
[0164] The viscosity of the styling compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the viscosity of the styling composition is from approximately 1 to approximately 200 Pas, at a shear rate of 4 / s at 25°C. In other embodiments, the viscosity of the styling composition is from approximately 1 to approximately 150 Pas, from approximately 1 to approximately 100 Pas, from approximately 1 to approximately 75 Pas, from approximately 1 to approximately 50 Pas, from approximately 2 to approximately 50 Pas, or from approximately 5 to approximately 50 Pas at a shear rate of 4 / s at 25°C. Methods of implementation
[0165] In various embodiments, the styling compositions of this disclosure include or consist of: a. about 1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 12% by weight, better still about 3 to about 8% by weight of one or more fatty amides, fatty alkanolamides and / or alkoxylated fatty amides, preferably one or more fatty alkanolamides, in particular, one or more fatty alkanolamides selected from cocamide MEA, cocamide DEA, sojaamide DEA, lauramide DEA, oleamide MIPA, stearamide MEA, myristamide DEA, stearamide DEA, oleylamide DEA, tallowamide DEA, lauramide MIPA, tallowamide MEA, isostearamide DEA, isostearamide MEA, or a mixture thereof, better still one or more fatty alkanamides is cocamide MEA; a. about 1 to about 12% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 10% by weight, better still about 3 to about 8% by weight of one or more non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids, preferably one or more non-substituted fatty acids selected from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid and a combination thereof, better still selected from oleic acid, lauric acid or a combination thereof; b. about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight, better still about 1.5 to about 6% by weight of one or more hydroxysubstituted fatty acids, preferably one or more substituted fatty acids selected from 12-hydroxystearic acid, 9,10-Dihydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 9,10,18-Trihydroxyoctadecanoic acid, lesquerolic acid, 15-Hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, isoricinololic acid, densipolic acid, acid 14-hydroxy-eicosa-cis-11-cis-17-dienoic acid, 2-hydroxyoleic acid, 2-hydroxylinoleic acid, 18-hydroxystearic acid, 15-hydroxylenoleic acid and a combination of the latter, better still, in which one or more of the hydroxysubstituted fatty acids is / are hydroxystearic acid; c. about 70 to about 95% by weight, preferably about 70 to about 90% by weight, better still about 75 to about 90% by weight of one or more weakly polar oils, preferably in which the one or more weakly polar oils are hydrocarbon-based (non-silicone) oils, better still the one or more weakly polar oils are natural oils, in particular vegetable oils, for example, selected from sunflower oil, canola oil, soybean oil, corn oil, peanut oil, palm oil, castor oil, cottonseed oil, lesquerella oil, crambe oil, safflower oil and mixtures thereof; d. Optionally, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more alkoxylated polyol esters, preferably one or more alkoxylated polyol esters selected from pegylated derivatives of propylene glycol oleate, propylene glycol caprylate / caprate, propylene glycol cocoate, propylene glycol stearate, and mixtures thereof, more preferably one or more alkoxylated polyol esters selected from PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-6 propylene glycol caprylate / caprate, PEG-8 propylene glycol cocoate, PEG-25 propylene glycol stearate, and PEG-120 propylene glycol stearate, or mixtures thereof, in particular PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate and e. Optionally, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight of one or more water-soluble organic compounds, preferably one or more water-soluble organic solvents selected from the monoalcohols in C10⁶, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a combination thereof and f. Optionally, about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.05 to 6% by weight, or even better about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably selected from agents of preservation, perfumes, pH correctors, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.) or a combination thereof.
[0166] the composition comprising less than 2% by weight of water,
[0167] the composition exhibits non-Newtonian shear-thinning behavior
[0168] and
[0169] where all percentages by weight are based on a total weight of the composition.
[0170] In various embodiments, the above-mentioned styling composition is free or essentially free of film-forming polymers. In one embodiment, the styling composition is free or essentially free of non-ionic film-forming polymers. In another embodiment, the styling composition is free or essentially free of amphoteric film-forming polymers.
[0171] In various embodiments, the above-mentioned hair-coating composition is free or substantially free of cationic conditioning polymers.
[0172] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of anionic surfactants. In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of cationic surfactants. In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants. In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of nonionic surfactants. In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of surfactants (anionic, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric / zwitterionic).
[0173] In various embodiments, the above-mentioned styling composition is free or essentially free of silicones. The term "silicones" is a generic term referring to a class of synthetic polymers that are based on an alternating silicon-oxygen bond structure (siloxane) with at least one organic group attached to the silicon atom via a direct carbon-silicone bond.
[0174] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of thickening agents.
[0175] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of polyquaternium compounds.
[0176] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or substantially free of additional fatty compounds.
[0177] In various embodiments, the styling composition is in the form of a wax, a gel, a paste, a clay or a pomade.
[0178] In various embodiments, the styling compositions of this disclosure include or consist of: a. of about 1 to about 15% by weight, preferably of about 2 to about 12% by weight, better still of about 3 to about 8% by weight of one or more fatty alkanolamides, selected from cocamide MEA, cocamide DEA, sojaamide DEA, lauramide DEA, oleamide MIPA, stearamide MEA, my-ristamide DEA, stearamide DEA, oleylamide DEA, tallowamide DEA, lauramide MIPA, tallowamide MEA, isostearamide DEA, isostearamide MEA, or a mixture thereof, better still one or more fatty alkanolamides being cocamide MEA; a. about 1 to about 12% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 10% by weight, better still, about 3 to about 8% by weight of one or more non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids, selected from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid and a combination thereof, better still selected from oleic acid, lauric acid or a combination thereof; b. about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight, or better still, about 1.5 to about 6% by weight of one or more hydroxysubstituted fatty acids selected from 12-hydroxystearic acid, 9,10-dihydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 9,10,18-trihydroxyoctadecanoic acid, lesquerolic acid, 15-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, isoricinoleic acid, densipolic acid, 14-hydroxy-eicosa-cis-11-cis-17-dienoic acid, 2-hydroxyoleic acid, 2-hydroxylinoleic acid, 18-hydroxystearic acid, 15-hydroxylinoleic acid and a combination thereof, or better still, wherein one or more of the substituted fatty acids is an acid hydroxystearic acid; c. about 70 to about 95% by weight, preferably about 70 to about 90% by weight, better still about 75 to about 90% by weight of one or more low polar hydrocarbon-based oils selected from natural oils, especially vegetable oils, for example, selected from sunflower oil, canola oil, soybean oil, corn oil, peanut oil, palm oil, castor oil, cottonseed oil, lesquerella oil, crambe oil, safflower oil and mixtures thereof; d. Optionally, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more alkoxylated polyol esters, preferably one or more alkoxylated polyol esters selected from pegylated derivatives of propylene glycol oleate, propylene glycol caprylate / caprate, propylene glycol cocoate, propylene glycol stearate, and mixtures thereof, more preferably one or more alkoxylated polyol esters selected from PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-6 propylene glycol caprylate / caprate, PEG-8 propylene glycol cocoate, PEG-25 propylene glycol stearate, and PEG-120 propylene glycol stearate, or mixtures thereof, in particular PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate and e. about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, better still about 1 to about 6% by weight of one or more water-soluble organic solvents selected from the monoalcohols in C10⁶, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof, better still selected from ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a combination thereof and f. of about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.05 to 6% by weight, better still, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.) or a combination thereof.
[0179] the composition comprising less than 2% by weight of water,
[0180] the composition exhibits non-Newtonian shear-thinning behavior
[0181] and
[0182] where all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
[0183] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of film-forming polymers. In one embodiment, the styling composition is free or essentially free of nonionic film-forming polymers. In another embodiment, the styling composition is free or essentially free of amphoteric film-forming polymers.
[0184] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of cationic conditioning polymers.
[0185] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of anionic surfactants. In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of cationic surfactants. In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants. In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of nonionic surfactants. In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of surfactants (anionic, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric / zwitterionic).
[0186] In various embodiments, the above-mentioned styling composition is free or essentially free of silicones. The term "silicones" is a generic term referring to a class of synthetic polymers that are based on an alternating silicon-oxygen bond structure (siloxane) with at least one organic group attached to the silicon atom via a direct carbon-silicone bond.
[0187] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of thickening agents.
[0188] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of polyquaternium compounds.
[0189] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or substantially free of additional fatty compounds.
[0190] In various embodiments, the styling composition is in the form of a wax, a gel, a paste, a clay or a pomade.
[0191] In other embodiments, the styling compositions of this disclosure consist of: a. of about 1 to about 15% by weight, preferably of about 2 to about 12% by weight, better still of about 3 to about 8% by weight of one or more fatty alkanolamides, selected from cocamide MEA, cocamide DEA, sojaamide DEA, lauramide DEA, oleamide MIPA, stearamide MEA, my-ristamide DEA, stearamide DEA, oleylamide DEA, tallowamide DEA, lauramide MIPA, tallowamide MEA, isostearamide DEA, isostearamide MEA, or a mixture thereof, better still one or more fatty alkanolamides being cocamide MEA; a. about 1 to about 12% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 10% by weight, better still, about 3 to about 8% by weight of one or more non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids, selected from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, li- noleic acid, capric acid and a combination thereof, better still chosen from oleic acid, lauric acid or a combination thereof; b. about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight, or better still, about 1.5 to about 6% by weight of one or more hydroxysubstituted fatty acids selected from 12-hydroxystearic acid, 9,10-dihydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 9,10,18-trihydroxyoctadecanoic acid, lesquerolic acid, 15-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, isoricinoleic acid, densipolic acid, 14-hydroxy-eicosa-cis-11-cis-17-dienoic acid, 2-hydroxyoleic acid, 2-hydroxylinoleic acid, 18-hydroxystearic acid, 15-hydroxylinoleic acid, and a combination thereof, or better still, wherein one or more of the substituted fatty acids is an acid hydroxystearic acid; c. about 70 to about 95% by weight, preferably about 70 to about 90% by weight, better still about 75 to about 90% by weight of one or more weakly polar hydrocarbon oils selected from natural oils, especially vegetable oils, for example, selected from sunflower oil, canola oil, soybean oil, corn oil, peanut oil, palm oil, castor oil, cottonseed oil, lesquerella oil, crambe oil, safflower oil and mixtures thereof; d. from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more alkoxylated polyol esters, preferably one or more alkoxylated polyol esters selected from pegylated derivatives of propylene glycol oleate, propylene glycol caprylate / caprate, propylene glycol cocoate, propylene glycol stearate, and a mixture thereof, more preferably one or more alkoxylated polyol esters selected from PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-6 propylene glycol caprylate / caprate, PEG-8 propylene glycol cocoate, PEG-25 propylene glycol stearate and PEG-120 propylene glycol stearate or a mixture thereof, in particular PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate And e. about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, better still about 1 to about 6% by weight of one or more water-soluble organic solvents selected from the monoalcohols in C10⁶, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof, better still selected from ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, ethylene glycol, the propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a combination thereof and f. optionally, from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 8%, better still, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more non-ionic film-forming polymers, of one or more amphoteric film-forming polymers, or a combination thereof; g. of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably of about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, better still of about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more cationic conditioning polymers and h. optionally from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, better still from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more surfactants, preferably one or more non-ionic surfactants and i. from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, better still from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more additional fatty compounds and j. optionally from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, better still from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more thickening agents and k. of about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.05 to 6% by weight, better still, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.) or a combination thereof.
[0192] the composition comprising less than 2% by weight of water,
[0193] the composition exhibits non-Newtonian shear-thinning behavior
[0194] and
[0195] where all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
[0196] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of film-forming polymers. In one embodiment, the styling composition is free or essentially free of nonionic film-forming polymers. In another embodiment, the styling composition is free or essentially free of amphoteric film-forming polymers.
[0197] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of cationic conditioning polymers.
[0198] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of anionic surfactants. In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of cationic surfactants. In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants. In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of nonionic surfactants. In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of surfactants (anionic, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric / zwitterionic).
[0199] In various embodiments, the above-mentioned styling composition is free or essentially free of silicones. The term "silicones" is a generic term referring to a class of synthetic polymers that are based on an alternating silicon-oxygen bond structure (siloxane) with at least one organic group attached to the silicon atom via a direct carbon-silicone bond.
[0200] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or substantially free of thickening agents.
[0201] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or essentially free of polyquaternium compounds.
[0202] In various embodiments, the above styling composition is free or substantially free of additional fatty compounds.
[0203] In various embodiments, the styling composition is in the form of a wax, a gel, a paste, a clay or a pomade. Hair styling techniques
[0204] Styling compositions can be used in various methods for treating hair, for example, human hair. For example, styling compositions are useful for: (i) enhancing or maintaining curl definition or hold; (ii) styling and shaping hair; (iii) aligning and disciplining hair fibers; and (iv) improving the appearance of hair; processes generally comprising the application of a styling composition disclosed herein to the hair.
[0205] In some cases, the styling composition is applied to the hand, for example, to the fingers, and the hands are used to apply the styling composition to the hair. In other words, a sufficient amount of styling composition can be deposited in the hands or on the fingers, the hands can be rubbed together to disperse the styling compositions (which provides shear stress that thins the compositions), and the fingers are used to apply the Hair styling product. During application, fingers / hands can be used to manipulate and style the hair.
[0206] An implementation of this disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. These examples are intended to illustrate the technology but are not limiting in nature. EXAMPLE 1 (Compositions)
[0207] Comparative Inventory ABCDEF (a) Fatty alkanolamide COCAMIDE MEA 6 6 6 6 6 (b) Non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acid OLEIC ACID 4 4 5 4 4 LAURIC ACID 1 1 1 1 (c) Hydroxysubstituted fatty acid HYDROXYS-TEARIC ACID 2 2 2 2 2 (d) Low polarity oil HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL 83.8 87 95 92 GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) OIL 83.8 83.8 (e) Alkoxylated polyol ester PEG-55 PROPYLENE GLYCOL OLEATE 1.2 1.2 1.2 (f) Water-soluble solvent PROPYLENE GLYCOL 1.2 1.2 1.2 (g) Miscellaneous ingredients: Perfumes, pH adjusters (sodium hydroxide), plant extracts, etc. 0.2 0.2 0.2 Water 0.6 0.6 0.6 Viscosity (shear rate of 4 / s) 1 8.7 30.7 33.8 43.4 0.05 57.9
[0208] Viscosity was measured using a TA Instruments Discovery HR-2 rheometer at 25°C using parallel 40 mm sandblasted plates, a gap of 300 pm and a shear range of 0.1 / s to 100 / s.
[0209] As shown in comparative composition E, without component (a) (cocamide MEA) and component (c) (hydroxystearic acid), the consistency of the composition is very low, resulting in a liquid consistency. EXAMPLE 2 (Holding power test)
[0210] The inventive composition D and the comparative composition F were tested to determine their impact on hair with regard to styling benefits. The inventive composition D comprises a non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acid (oleic and lauric acid). The comparative composition F is identical to the inventive composition D, except that it lacks a non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acid. The absence of non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids is compensated for by the addition of a weakly polar oil.
[0211] Each composition was individually tested on Curl Pattern VIL hair strands. All hair strands were first washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed, and dried. 0.3 grams of either inventive composition D or comparative composition F was rubbed between the hands (resulting in shearing) and then applied to the hair strands by massaging for approximately 20 seconds. The hair strands were visually assessed and then immediately placed in a humid chamber at 25°C and 80% relative humidity for 24 hours. After 24 hours, the hair strands were visually assessed again.
[0212] During the initial application (T0), the inventive composition D provided greater curl elongation and therefore greater hold than the comparative composition F. After 24 hours in a humidity chamber, the inventive composition D continued to provide greater curl elongation and therefore greater hold than the comparative composition F. In other words, the inventive composition D provided more hold and styling benefits to curly hair than the comparative composition F during the initial application and after 24 hours at 25°C and 80% relative humidity. This demonstrates the influence of the non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acid (component (b)) on styling compositions.
[0213] Some of the various identified component categories may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, some compounds may be considered both an emulsifier and a fatty compound. If a particular composition includes both an emulsifier and a fatty compound, a single compound will serve only as an emulsifier or only as a fatty compound (the single fatty compound does not serve as both an emulsifier and a fatty compound).
[0214] A "rinse-out" product refers to a composition that is rinsed and / or washed from the hair with water after or during the application of the composition to the keratin fiber, and before drying and / or styling the hair. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the hair during rinsing and / or washing.
[0215] A "leave-in" product means a composition that is not rinsed and / or washed from the hair after or during its application to the hair. The composition remains on the hair during drying and / or throughout styling.
Claims
Demands
1. Styling composition exhibiting non-Newtonian shear-thinning behavior, comprising: (a) about 1 to about 15% by weight of one or more fatty amides, fatty alkanolamides and / or alkoxylated fatty amides; (b) one or more non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids; (c) one or more hydroxysubstituted fatty acids; (d) at least 70% by weight of one or more oils and wherein the composition comprises less than 2% by weight of water and wherein all percentages by weight are based on a total weight of the composition.
2. Styling composition according to claim 1, wherein the styling composition includes one or more fatty alkanolamides.
3. Styling composition according to claim 2, the fatty alkanolamide(s) being selected from cocamide MEA, cocamide DEA, sojamide DEA, lauramide DEA, oleamide MIPA, stearamide MEA, myristamide DEA, stearamide DEA, oleylamide DEA, tallowamide DEA, lauramide MIPA, tallowamide MEA, isostearamide DEA, isostearamide MEA, and a mixture thereof.
4. Styling composition according to claim 1, at least one of the non-hydroxysubstituted fatty acids being selected from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, behenic acid, capric acid and a combination thereof.
5. Hair styling composition according to claim 1, wherein one or more of the hydroxysubstituted fatty acids of (c) are selected from 12-hydroxystearic acid, 9,10-dihydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 9,10,18-trihydroxyoctadecanoic acid, lesquerolic acid, 15-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, isoricinoleic acid, den-sipolic acid, 14-hydroxy-eicosa-cis-11-cis-17-dienoic acid, 2-hydroxyoleic acid, 2-hydroxyoleic acid, 18-hydroxystearic acid, 15,hydroxyoleic acid, and a combination thereof.
6. Hair styling composition according to claim 1, further comprising: (a) one or more alkoxylated polyol esters.
7. Hair styling composition according to claim 1 having a translucent or opaque appearance.
8. Hair styling method comprising applying the hair styling composition of claim 1 to the hair.