Exfoliating composition

A composition of perlite, pumice stone, microcrystalline cellulose, and cellulose addresses the issues of conventional exfoliants by offering effective, gentle exfoliation without irritation or dryness, ensuring a radiant complexion without additional skin treatments.

FR3146277B1Active Publication Date: 2025-10-10LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2023001921
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2023-03-01
Publication Date
2025-10-10
Estimated Expiration
2043-03-01

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Conventional exfoliating products are abrasive, irritating to sensitive skin, cause dryness, and may lead to ocular intolerance, requiring additional skin treatments and moisturizing creams.

Method used

A cosmetic composition combining perlite, pumice stone, microcrystalline cellulose, and cellulose, with specific weight ratios and particle sizes, for gentle exfoliation without irritation.

Benefits of technology

Provides effective exfoliation, deep cleansing, and skin smoothing while being gentle on the skin, eliminating the need for post-exfoliation treatments.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.
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Abstract

Exfoliating composition The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for exfoliating and / or scrubbing keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising a combination of perlite, pumice stone, microcrystalline cellulose, and cellulose, in which the weight ratio of pumice stone to microcrystalline cellulose is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than 1. It also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention as a cleansing product and / or as an exfoliant and / or as a care mask. Figure for the abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: Exfoliating composition Technical field

[0001] The invention relates to an exfoliating cosmetic composition which can be used for exfoliating and / or deep cleansing the skin of the face, neck and / or human body. In particular, this composition allows the gentle removal of dead cells and impurities from the skin. Prior art

[0002] Exfoliating or scrubbing products, also known as "scrubs", are intended to make the skin of the face, body and / or neck softer, better prepared for the application of a product, particularly skincare, makeup, or self-tanning. They are generally in the form of emulsions which contain, as exfoliating particles, polyethylene powder, fine particles of quartz, kernels or plant seeds (walnut shells for example). These particles generally have a number median diameter D50 ranging from 300 pm to 800 pm.

[0003] Unfortunately, due to the hard nature, their more or less controlled shape, and / or the very size of the exfoliating particles used, these known exfoliating products generally have the disadvantage of being abrasive, irritating and being poorly tolerated by sensitive skin, the most fragile and thin skin such as that around the eyes. In addition, these conventional products can cause dryness of the skin, in particular due to excessive removal of the protective hydrolipidic barrier of the epidermis, which requires, after their use, the application of a nourishing, protective and / or moisturizing cream. In addition, despite all the precautions taken when applying these formulas to avoid the eye area, problems of ocular intolerance have also been observed in certain cases. Statement of the invention

[0004] There therefore remains a need for a new scrub composition (or exfoliating or scrubbing composition) that is well tolerated by even sensitive skin, that does not present an ophthalmic risk, while allowing optimal scrubbing effectiveness, and that does not require additional treatment of the skin after scrubbing, nor does it cause drying of the skin. Summary of the invention

[0005] The subject of the invention is therefore the cosmetic use of a combination of perlite, pumice stone, microcrystalline cellulose, and cellulose, as an exfoliant and / or scrubbing and / or cleansing, keratin materials, in particular of the skin, in particular of the face, neck, body and / or scalp.

[0006] The invention relates in particular to a cosmetic composition, in particular a cleansing and / or exfoliating and / or scrubbing and / or massaging composition for keratin materials, in particular the skin, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable medium: a combination of perlite, pumice stone, microcrystalline cellulose, and cellulose.

[0007] The inventors have shown that the use in an exfoliating composition of a particular combination of several exfoliating fillers, respecting in particular certain criteria of weight ratio, or even also of specific shape, and / or particle size, makes it possible to obtain at the same time: an effective scrub, a deep cleansing, soft skin, a smoothing effect, a brighter / lighter / more radiant complexion, while being particularly gentle, and respecting the skin, sufficiently so as not to require the application of a repairing or lipid-replenishing treatment following the scrubbing or exfoliation process.

[0008] In the context of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated, the following definitions apply:

[0009] By "keratin materials" is meant, according to the invention, the skin of the body, face and / or eye contour, lips, nails, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, beard, scalp and / or hair, or any other skin area of ​​the body. More particularly, the keratin materials according to the invention are the skin and / or scalp.

[0010] By "the skin" is meant the entire skin of the body, and preferably, the skin of the face, décolleté, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably, the skin of the face, in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin, and around the eyes.

[0011] The compositions according to the present invention are preferably cosmetic compositions. By "cosmetic" in the sense of the present invention, is meant a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and appendages.

[0012] A composition according to the invention is suitable for application to keratin materials, in particular topical application to the skin, and therefore comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.

[0013] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying this composition.

[0014] The expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more”.

[0015] The expressions "comprises from ... to ...", "formed from ... to ...", and "ranging from ... to ..." must be understood inclusively. On the contrary, the expressions "between ... and ..." must be understood inclusively, within the meaning of the present invention. Detailed description

[0016] The use and therefore also the composition according to the invention, comprise, in a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable medium, a combination of perlite, pumice stone, microcrystalline cellulose, and cellulose, as defined below. Perlite

[0017] The composition according to the invention comprises perlite particles. The perlites that can be used in the context of the invention may be expanded perlites. They are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have the following composition: 70.0-75.0% by weight of silica SiO2; 12.0-15.0% by weight of aluminum oxide A12O3; 3.0-5.0% of sodium oxide Na2O; 3.0-5.0% of potassium oxide K2O; 0.5-2% of iron oxide Fe2O3; 0.2-0.7% of magnesium oxide MgO; 0.5-1.5% of calcium oxide CaO; 0.05-0.15% of titanium oxide TiO2. The perlite is ground, dried and then sized in a first step. The product obtained, called Perlite Ore, is gray in color and about 100 pm in size.

[0018] The Perlite Ore can then be expanded (1000°C / 2 seconds) to give more or less white particles. When the temperature reaches 850-900°C, the water trapped in the structure of the material vaporizes and causes the material to expand compared to its original volume. The expanded perlite particles that can be used in the context of the invention can be obtained by the expansion process described in US patent 5,002,698.

[0019] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the expanded perlite particles used are ground; in this case they are called Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP). They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D5o ranging from 0.5 to 300 pm, preferably from 20 to 280 pm, and even more preferably from 100 to 250 pm.

[0020] The median diameter D50 or D50 of the particles is measured at 25 °C by laser diffraction with a Malvern Mastersizer type device. The D50 of a powder corresponds to the value of the particle size which divides the population of particles examined exactly in two.

[0021] In other words, in the composition according to the invention, 50% of the exfoliating particles have a size of less than 500 pm, preferably less than 400 pm, preferably less than 300 pm. The D50 of less than 300 pm, preferably from 50 to 280 pm, exfoliating particles of the composition according to the invention contribute to obtaining exfoliation that is effective, regular and gentle.

[0022] The D50 can be measured according to the ISO 9276 standard - parts 1 to 6: “Representation of data obtained by particle size analysis”. In the present description, a laser particle size analyzer, for example of the Malvem Mastersizer type, is used with RT Sizer type software to obtain the particle size distribution of the powder and deduce the D50.

[0023] As examples, we can cite the perlites marketed under the names Imercare 270P-Scrub, Imercare 400P-Scrub, or Imercare 230P SCRUB OR by the company IMERYS.

[0024] According to an advantageous embodiment, the perlite used according to the invention is unexpanded.

[0025] According to another alternative embodiment, the perlite used according to the invention is at least partially expanded.

[0026] The perlite particles are generally present in the composition according to the invention at contents ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 5%, preferably from 0.8 to 3% of perlite, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in the dispersed phase (aqueous and / or fatty).

[0027] In the case of a dry composition, in particular in powder form, without aqueous phase or fatty phase in the composition, the perlite content is proportionally higher, and can for example represent a content ranging from 10 to 40%, by weight on 100% of dry formula. Pumice

[0028] The composition according to the invention also comprises pumice stone particles.

[0029] Pumice stone, whose INCI name is pumice, is of volcanic origin. It is formed at temperatures of around 500 to 600°C from lava projected into the air which cools as it falls and whose degassing causes the formation of bubbles, leading to a low density and high porosity.

[0030] Pumice stone is formed from fragments of rhyolite, dacite or andesite. It is considered a glass because it has no crystalline structure.

[0031] Pumice stone particles are abrasive solid particles. In particular, they may have a hardness greater than or equal to that of hair, ranging from 3 to 10 Mohs, or even greater than or equal to 4, for example greater than or equal to 5, and in particular ranging from 5 to 5.5 on the Mohs scale.

[0032] The pumice stone particles may have a number median diameter D50 less than or equal to 500 pm, preferably between 50 and 500 pm, better still less than or equal to 300 pm, for example between 100 and 300 pm.

[0033] Depending on the range of particles used, the median diameter D50 in number can be determined by using sieves or by laser granulometry.

[0034] It may in particular be a pumice stone powder marketed under the name PONCE 0 U2 D by the company EYRAUD, with a D50 of approximately 140 pm measured by laser diffraction.

[0035] It may also be a decontaminated pumice stone powder marketed under the reference 0-D PONCE by the EYRAUD Company, with a D50 of less than 125 pm, or a pumice stone powder marketed under the reference 2B D by the EYRAUD Company, with a median diameter in number ranging from 100 to 500 pm.

[0036] Particular mention may be made of the decontaminated pumice stone powder marketed under the reference PONCE 0 1 / 2 D PONCE DECONTAMINEE by the EYRAUD Company, or PUMICE POWDER 0 1 / 2 by the TECHFIL Company.

[0037] The composition according to the invention, in particular when it is in dry, powdered form, may comprise pumice stone particles in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular from 1% to 35% by weight, in particular from 5% to 30% by weight, for example from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] When the pumice particles are dispersed, for example in the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention, the content is rather from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 3%, preferably from 0.7 to 2%, by weight, on 100% of composition. Cellulose

[0039] The cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises cellulose.

[0040] Cellulose is a natural polymer of D-glucose, in which the bond between the glucose units "" is of type B, 1:4.

[0041] Cellulose has the following chemical structure:

[0042] For the purposes of the present invention, said cellulose, other than microcrystalline cellulose defined below, is an unmodified cellulose, in particular not chemically modified, preferably a natural cellulose.

[0043] The composition according to the invention, in particular when it is in dry, powder form, preferably comprises cellulose in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Of course, the content is expressed as active material. On the other hand, if it is dispersed in aqueous or fatty phase, the cellulose content is preferably from 0.1 to 6%, preferably from 0.2 to 2%, preferably from 0.2 to 1%, preferably from 0.5 to 1%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Microcrystalline cellulose

[0044] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises microcrystalline cellulose.

[0045] The main source of microcrystalline cellulose is plant fiber. Cellulose is present as a component of the cell wall, in the form of bundles of microfibrils. A portion of these microfibrils is composed of amorphous cellulose, while a second portion is made up of crystalline cellulose (a polymer is said to be amorphous when its chains are tangled up haphazardly, while a polymer whose chains are aligned in ordered crystals is said to be crystalline).

[0046] The other main components of the cell wall are hemicellulose and lignin. Microcrystalline cellulose is therefore isolated from plant fibers, first by separating it from lignin and hemicellulose, and then by purifying it by acid hydrolysis so as to remove the amorphous cellulose portion.

[0047] Microcrystalline cellulose is generally prepared from wood pulp: said pulp is cut into small particles which are chemically hydrolyzed, in particular with a mineral acid, then a filtration and drying step takes place.

[0048] Microcrystalline cellulose is marketed in particular by FMC Biopolymers under the name Avicel or by the company Vivapur.

[0049] Preferably, the microcrystalline cellulose used according to the invention has a particle size defined by a number median diameter D50 ranging from 80 to 250 pm, preferably from 100 to 200 pm. Preferably, the microcrystalline cellulose is chosen from a microcrystalline cellulose whose number median diameter is less than 180 pm and is preferably 150 pm. The median diameter is a parameter which can be measured by laser granulometry or by selective sieving.

[0050] Preferably, the microcrystalline cellulose is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, when it is in the form of dry powder. Of course, the content is expressed as active material. According to the invention, in particular if it is dispersed in aqueous or fatty phase, the content of microcrystalline cellulose is preferably from 0.1 to 6%, preferably from 0.2 to 2%, preferably from 0.2 to 1% of microcrystalline cellulose, preferably from 0.5 to 1%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to the invention

[0051] In the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio of pumice stone to microcrystalline cellulose is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than 1. Preferably, the weight ratio of pumice stone to microcrystalline cellulose is between 1 and 3, preferably between 1 and 2, preferably in the range of 1.5 to 2.

[0052] Advantageously, the weight ratio of the total content of said two celluloses to the pumice stone content is greater than 1, preferably between 1 and 2.

[0053] Preferably, the weight ratio of perlite to pumice stone is greater than 1, preferably between 1 and 2.

[0054] A composition in accordance with the invention comprises a combination of several exfoliating filler(s), in particular according to one or more specific contents, preferably at least some of these fillers are spheroidal, these fillers preferably having a number median diameter D50 ranging from 100 to 250 μm.

[0055] Advantageously, in the composition according to the invention, the perlite and / or pumice stone and / or microcrystalline cellulose and / or cellulose are in the form of particles with a median diameter D50 of less than 300 pm, preferably less than 250 pm, preferably between 100 and 250 pm.

[0056] By "number median diameter" of the particles is meant the median diameter over 50% by number of the particles (D[0.5]) obtained using a laser diffraction granulometer (e.g. Mastersizer2000 from Malvern Company).

[0057] Preferably, the perlite and / or pumice stone and / or microcrystalline cellulose and / or cellulose are in the form of particles having a narrow particle size distribution, preferably less than 150 μm, preferably less than 100 μm.

[0058] Advantageously, the perlite and / or the pumice stone and / or the microcrystalline cellulose and / or the cellulose are in the form of particles of homogeneous shape, preferably of non-angular shape, preferably of spheroidal shape; preferably at least said perlite is of homogeneous shape, preferably non-angular, preferably spheroidal; preferably at least said perlite and the two celluloses are of homogeneous shape, preferably non-angular, preferably spheroidal.

[0059] By "spheroidal" is meant that the particle has a sphericity index, that is to say the ratio between its largest diameter and its smallest diameter, of less than 1.5.

[0060] The invention applies to any type of composition and in particular to aqueous compositions, water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions, to compositions anhydrous such as pastes or cast products, to aqueous gels or lipophilic gels and to aqueous or lipophilic liquid compositions.

[0061] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of an exfoliating powder and / or a scrubbing powder and / or a cleansing powder.

[0062] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase. Aqueous phase

[0063] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises a quantity of water of at least 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 40 to 95% by weight and better still from 50 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water, such as: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-Bains water, Avene water. The aqueous phase can also include reconstituted thermal water, i.e. water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of thermal water.

[0065] The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive. As water-soluble additives, mention may in particular be made of polyols comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms. By "polyols" is meant any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0066] Advantageously, the composition of the invention further comprises at least one polyol having from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol.

[0067] As water-soluble additives, mention may also be made of primary alcohols, that is to say an alcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. This is preferably ethanol. The addition of such an alcohol may be particularly appropriate when the composition according to the invention is used as a product for the body or hair.

[0068] The content of water-soluble or water-dispersible additives in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 0 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH greater than or equal to 5, which in particular makes it possible to optimize its stability.

[0070] The compositions of the invention may contain adjuvants usually used in the cosmetic field, and in particular those used in cleaning products.Examples of adjuvants that may be mentioned include perfumes, preservatives, pigments, pearlescent agents, mineral or organic fillers, mattifying, whitening or exfoliating agents, soluble colorants, sunscreens, cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients such as water-soluble or fat-soluble vitamins, antiseptics, antiseborrheic agents, antimicrobials such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, triclosan, azelaic acid, and also optical brighteners, non-ionic polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), anionic polymers, conditioning amphoteric polymers such as polyquaterniums, for example polyquaternium-47 marketed under the reference Merquat 2001 by the company Nalco, and fatty substances incompatible with the aqueous medium, such as oils or waxes.The quantities of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field considered, and for example from 0.01 to 25% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants as well as their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the property sought for the composition of the invention.

[0071] As active ingredients, mention may be made of any care or cleansing active ingredient usually used in the cosmetic field, and in particular antibacterials such as octopirox and triclosan, keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid, lactic acid or glycolic acid, salicylic acid derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, essential oils, fruit waters (for example apple, grape) or floral waters (for example rose), plant extracts (in particular tea, mint, orchid, soy), inclusions of leaves, flowers or petals, mineral salts (for example zinc, copper), vitamins such as vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E, vitamin PP (niacinamide), vitamin B3 (panthenol) and their derivatives.

[0072] As charges, we can cite:

[0073] - additional mineral fillers such as clays other than those defined higher,

[0074] - additional organic charges other than those defined above, or fibers such as cellulose fibers or "Rayon" (RAYON FLOCK RCISE NOOO3 MO4® marketed by the company CLAREMONT FLOCK CORPORATION).

[0075] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains, as fillers, additional exfoliating particles which will allow the skin to be exfoliated. As exfoliating particles, exfoliating or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin can be used.Thus, one can use, for example, crushed fruit kernel shells such as crushed apricot kernels or walnut shells; sawdust; glass beads; alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina) such as the product marketed under the name Dermagrain 900 by the company Marketech International; sugar crystals; beads which melt when applied to the skin, such as, for example, mannitol and cellulose-based spheres marketed under the name Unisphères by the company Induchem, agar-based capsules marketed under the name Primasponge by the company Cognis, and jojoba ester-based spheres marketed under the name Florasphères by the company Floratech; diatom frustules such as those marketed by the company Alban Muller under the reference Diatami 60 / 200 microns.

[0076] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises, preferably in an aqueous phase:

[0077] - 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 5%, preferably 0.8 to 3% of perlite,

[0078] - 0.1 to 8%, preferably 0.3 to 3%, preferably 0.7 to 2% of pumice stone,

[0079] - 0.1 to 6%, preferably 0.2 to 2%, preferably 0.2 to 1%, preferably 0.5 to 1% microcrystalline cellulose,

[0080] - 0.1 to 6%, preferably 0.2 to 2%, preferably 0.2 to 1%, preferably 0.5 to 1% of cellulose, in particular unmodified;

[0081] the contents being by weight on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0082] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a composition intended to be rinsed, such as a cleansing and / or exfoliating composition, and / or scrub, and / or care mask, for keratin materials, preferably for the skin, in particular the face, neck, and / or scalp, preferably said composition is a 3-in-1 product forming an exfoliating cleansing mask.

[0083] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one foaming surfactant, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants. The anionic foaming surfactant optionally present is in particular chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, isethionates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl glutamates, such as sodium lauroyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate. The anionic foaming surfactant(s) are present at concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 30%, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight of active material, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additive chosen from: hydrophilic active agents, lipophilic active agents, perfumes, preservatives, coloring materials (pigments or dyes), solvents (lower alcohols), clays or even texturizing agents such as powdery agents other than exfoliating particles.

[0085] The composition according to the invention may also constitute a composition for the care of oily skin and / or the scalp, in particular when it contains a specific cosmetic active ingredient for the care of oily skin, such as for example azelaic acid, triclosan, piroctone olamine, niacinamide (vitamin PP).

[0086] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention as a cleansing product and / or as an exfoliant and / or as a care mask and / or as a 2-in-1 product or a 3-in-1 product, these last two products respectively comprising 2 or 3 of said possible uses for the same composition.

[0087] The invention also relates to a method for exfoliating and / or scrubbing and / or massaging and / or cleaning the skin of the body, neck and / or face.

[0088] Despite the small size of the particles, the composition of the invention ensures effective exfoliation without any aggressive effect, due to the particular ratios, shapes and granulometry of the particles used. In addition to these advantages, the composition of the invention is very gentle on application.

[0089] Another advantage of the above particles is that they can be used in smaller quantities than the particles conventionally used due to their association according to specific ratios, specific particle shapes and their specific particle size.

[0090] In the compositions of the invention, from 0.1% to 10% by weight of particles are preferably used, and better still from 0.3% to 5% and even better still from 0.3% to 1.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] As a result, the products of the invention can be used daily as cleansers or gentle exfoliants or even as facial and / or body massage products. Thanks to the particles selected according to the invention and their mechanical action, the composition of the invention provides a more effective massage than oils or fatty substances, without particles, generally used for massage.

[0092] The composition of the invention may be a powder, an aqueous or oily dispersion, an aqueous or oily gel, a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, a paste or an anhydrous cast product or one with a high fat content. In summary, the composition of the invention may be in any galenic form containing or not an aqueous phase and / or a fatty phase, the latter "fixing" the particles to the surface of the skin and preventing their elimination during massage.

[0093] For example, the composition may contain from 5% to 99.9% by weight of fatty and / or aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even from 10% to 50% by weight. The quantity of these phases actually depends on the galenic form.

[0094] The possible oils and fatty or waxy compounds that can be used in the invention may be of mineral, vegetable, synthetic, silicone or fluorinated origin. They are those conventionally used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.

[0095] Examples that may be mentioned include, as mineral oil, paraffin or vaseline oil; as vegetable oil, sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, blackcurrant seed oil, palm oil, wheat germ oil, shea butter; as synthetic oil, caprylic-capric acid triglycerides, octyldodecanol, cetyl alcohol, stearic or stearyl acid and fatty esters such as butyl myristate or isopropyl or octyl palmitate, or cetearyl octanoate and isopropyl myristate; as silicone oil, cyclomethicones or polydimethylsiloxanes.

[0096] As waxy compounds which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of paraffin, jojoba oil, camauba wax.

[0097] To obtain a gel, it is necessary to use hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents.

[0098] As gelling agents, mention may be made of modified or unmodified clays (bentones) and metallic salts of fatty acids (aluminium stearate, ammonium lauryl sulphate); cellulose derivatives (modified celluloses), polycarboxyvinyl polymers, fatty alcohols.

[0099] In the case of an emulsion, surfactants can be used to disperse the fatty substances in water to produce oil / water emulsions or conversely, to disperse the water in the fatty substances to produce water / oil emulsions.

[0100] As surfactants, fatty acid esters of glycerol or polyethylene glycol (glyceryl stearate or polyethylene glycol) or sugar (sorbitan stearate) can be used.

[0101] The compositions of the invention may, in addition, contain various ingredients conventionally used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields. These ingredients may consist of hydrophilic active agents, lipophilic active agents, perfumes, preservatives, coloring materials (pigments or dyes), solvents (lower alcohols), clays or texturizing agents such as powdered agents other than exfoliating particles. These additional ingredients are used in usual quantities.

[0102] As hydrophilic active agents, mention may be made of polyols such as propylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol. As lipophilic active agents, mention may be made of essential oils or make-up removing oils such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, ultraviolet absorbing filters, vitamins.

[0103] The invention also relates to a method for cleaning and / or exfoliating the skin of the body and / or face, including the neck, consisting of applying to the skin a composition as defined above, massaging the skin with this composition to remove dead cells and then rinsing the skin, generally with water, in order to remove these dead cells and particles.

[0104] The invention also relates to the use of the composition defined above for cleaning and / or exfoliating the skin of the face, neck and / or human body.

[0105] The invention also relates to a use of the combination of particles according to the invention in a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable medium, for cleaning and / or exfoliating the skin of the face, neck and / or human body, these particles having a particle size D50 preferably between 80 μm and 300 μm.

[0106] Cleaning the human body concerns the legs, arms, back and stomach.

[0107] Given the non-irritating properties of the composition of the invention, it can be used daily even by people with very dry skin.

[0108] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities are given as a percentage % by weight, and as active material. Examples Example 1

[0109] The formulas in Table 2 below were tested by a panel of 15 volunteers (laboratory).

[0110] Test protocol: Apply 1 g of product to the back of the hand. Spread on dry skin then add water to lather. Rinse and dry. [YES] The exfoliating ingredients used in the formulas are listed in Table 1:

[0112] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name D50 Perlite IMERCARE 230P SCRUB OR by IMERYS 150 to 250 pm Cellulose microcrystall ine + cellulose: VIVAPUR CS 150 R5 JRS 150 pm Cellulose microcrystall ine + cellulose VIVAPUR CS 310 R / RETTE NMAIER 310pm Cellulose microcrystall ine + cellulose VIVAPUR CS 450 R5 JRS 450 pm Pumice PONCE 0 1 / 2 D PONCE DEC ONTAMINEE EYRAUD PUMICE POWDER 0 1 / 2 TEC HFIL

[0113] The Formulas tested are indicated in Table 2 below.

[0114] [T ables 2] Exfoliant: D50 (pm) Ex 1 Ex 2 Ex 3 Ex 4 Ex 5 Ex 6 Ex 7 Ex 8 Ex9 Ex 10 Exile Perlite 150 to 250 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Microcrystalline cellulose + cellulose 150 0.25 + 0.25 0.4 + 0.4 0.5 + 0.5 0.6 + 0.6 0.75 + 0.75 Microcrystalline cellulose + cellulose 310 0.5 1 1.5 Microcrystalline cellulose + cellulose 450 0.5 1 1.5 Pumice 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Conclusion: Scrubing + Sensory Scrubin g + S ensor iel + - Scrubin g + Sensori el + - Scrubin g +++ + sensory +++ + Scrubin g +++ Sensory 1+ - Scrubin g ++++ Sensory 1+ - - Conclusion#:

[0115] From the above tests, it has been demonstrated that the scrubbing system which is both the most effective for the exfoliating (or scrubbing) effect and the most pleasant for the sensory effect, comprises a mixture of cellulose and microcrystalline cellulose, a perlite and a pumice stone (or pumice), preferably of D50 and preferential rates described above according to the invention.

[0116] Example 2 - 3 in 1 Composition - Exfoliating Cleansing Mask

[0117] The exfoliating (scrubbing) system of Ex 9 was in particular evaluated in the composition (Exl2) of a 3-in-1 exfoliating cleansing mask formula, in the following Table 3.

[0118] [Tables3] INCI Name (Trade Name) Exl2 Water QSP 100 XANTHAN GUM 0.30 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSS POLYMER (Carbopol Ultrez 21) 0.29 CARBOMER (carbopol 980) SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE 1.40 KAOLIN (IMERCARE 04K) 22.00 ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH (BEAUTE-BY-ROQUETTE ST005) 4.00 Exfoliant of Ex 9 (Perlite + Pumice + cellulose + microcrystalline cellulose) 1 + 0.8 + 0.50 + 0.50 24h Control: Appearance Texture conforms, exfoliating effectiveness +++ Sensoriality OK PH 5.00 Viscosity (M4) 18 UD Viscosity in Poises 43.00 Conclusion Conforms - B UT + test Conclusion#:

[0119] The aqueous composition according to the invention Exl2 makes it possible to obtain a stable, effective formula with 3-in-1 power (Exfoliating Cleansing Mask). The combination of perlite, pumice stone, cellulose (unmodified) and microcrystalline cellulose provides exfoliating (scrubbing / or scrubbing) effectiveness to the formula Ex 12.

[0120] The compositions according to the invention were well tolerated by all skin types, even sensitive skin, as demonstrated by the consumer test in Example 3 below. They also did not present any ophthalmic risk. Example 3 - Consumer Testing

[0121] Consumer test protocol on formula Ex 12 of table 3 j.

[0122] [Tables4] Method: Application of the product under normal conditions of use and self-assessment by users. Mode and duration of use of the product: • Duration of the test: 4 weeks. • Frequency of application: once a day as a cleanser / scrub and twice a week as a mask • Application sites: on the face • Directions for use: “You will use this product on your face, once a day as a cleanser / scrub and twice a week as a mask, for 28 days, instead of your usual cleanser, scrub and mask.” • Gesture: Cleanser / scrub: Once a day on wet skin with a light and gentle massage, then rinse thoroughly. Mask: Twice a week on dry skin, leave on for 5 minutes, wet, massage lightly and rinse thoroughly. Inclusion criteria: • Women (105) and men (30) living in France, aged 18 to 60.• Have combination, normal-oily or oily facial skin. • 50% have sensitive skin. • Women's phototypes: I & II (35) - III & IV (35) - V & VI (35). No phototype quota for men. • Have a dull complexion, imperfections (uneven, rough skin and dilated pores), superficial marks "marks of old pimples, redness, scars...", acne-prone skin (blackheads and pimples). • Female users of cleanser, scrub, and cleansing mask if • possible. Men agree to use the test product daily • as a cleanser / scrub and twice a week as a mask (not necessarily regular users). Available for study. Exl2 / Comments obtained

[0123] [Tables5] Texture: suitable 21.7 Application Freshness sensation 36.4 Easy to apply 30.1 Pleasant to apply 19.6 Easy / difficult to rinse 12.6 Effectiveness: Deep cleansing 29.4 Soft skin 15.4 Effective 14 Clear skin 13.3 Acceptability: Gentle, respects the skin 16.1 Like existing 3 in 1 10.5

[0124] Note: Only mentions > 10% are listed

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition, in particular a cleansing and / or exfoliating and / or scrubbing composition for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising a combination of perlite, pumice stone, microcrystalline cellulose, and cellulose, in which the weight ratio of pumice stone to microcrystalline cellulose is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than 1; in which the microcrystalline cellulose is in the form of particles with a number median diameter D50 of less than 300 μm, the D50 being measured at 25°C by laser diffraction.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of pumice to microcrystalline cellulose is between 1 and 3, preferably between 1 and 2, preferably in the range of 1.5 to 2.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, in which the weight ratio of the total content of said two celluloses to the pumice content is greater than 1, preferably between 1 and 2.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the weight ratio of perlite to pumice stone is greater than 1, preferably between 1 and 2.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the perlite and / or pumice stone and / or microcrystalline cellulose and / or cellulose is in the form of particles with a number median diameter D50 of less than 300 pm, preferably less than 250 pm, preferably between 100 and 250 pm, the median diameter D50 of the particles being measured at 25°C by laser diffraction.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the perlite and / or pumice stone and / or microcrystalline cellulose and / or cellulose is in the form of particles having a particle size distribution of less than 150 pm, preferably less than 100 pm.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the perlite and / or pumice stone and / or microcrystalline cellulose and / or cellulose is / are in the form of particles of homogeneous shape, preferably of non-homogeneous shape. angular, preferably spheroidal in shape; preferably at least said perlite is of homogeneous shape, preferably non-angular, preferably spheroidal; preferably at least said perlite and said two celluloses are of homogeneous shape, preferably non-angular, preferably spheroidal.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein said cellulose other than microcrystalline cellulose is an unmodified cellulose, in particular unmodified chemically.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises, preferably in an aqueous phase: - 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 5%, preferably 0.8 to 3% of perlite, - 0.1 to 8%, preferably 0.3 to 3%, preferably 0.7 to 2% of pumice stone, - 0.1 to 6%, preferably 0.2 to 2%, preferably 0.2 to 1%, preferably 0.5 to 1%, of microcrystalline cellulose, - 0.1 to 6%, preferably 0.2 to 2%, preferably 0.2 to 1%, preferably 0.5 to 1%, of cellulose, in particular unmodified; the contents being by weight on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is in the form of an exfoliating powder and / or a scrubbing powder and / or a cleansing powder.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is in the form of a composition intended to be rinsed, such as a cleansing and / or exfoliating composition, and / or scrub, and / or care mask, for keratin materials, preferably for the skin, in particular the face, neck, and / or scalp, preferably said composition is a 3-in-1 product forming an exfoliating cleansing mask.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it further comprises at least one foaming surfactant, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants.

13. Composition according to claim 12, in which the anionic foaming surfactant is chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, isethionates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl glutamates, such as sodium lauroyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 12 or 13, in which the anionic foaming surfactant(s) are present at concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 30%, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight of active material, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, further comprising at least one polyol having from 3 to 10 carbon atoms.

16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, further comprising at least one additive chosen from: hydrophilic active agents, lipophilic active agents, perfumes, preservatives, coloring materials (pigments or dyes), solvents (lower alcohols), clays or even texturizing agents such as powdery agents other than exfoliating particles.

17. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, as a cleansing product and / or as an exfoliant and / or as a treatment mask and / or as a 2-in-1 product or as a 3-in-1 product, these last two products comprising respectively 2 or 3 of the aforementioned uses for the same composition.