NEW SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS AND THEIR USE FOR SKIN OR HAIR HYGIENE

Abstract

The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition particularly suitable for the care and / or hygiene of the skin and / or hair. This composition contains 30 to 65% by weight of consistency agent(s), a small amount of water, at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl group comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and at least one anionic surfactant selected from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts in a total content of 20% by weight or less. This composition exhibits a high degree of naturalness and good foaming power.

Description

Title of the invention: NEW SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS AND THEIR USE FOR SKIN OR HAIR HYGIENE

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in solid form, as well as the use of such a composition for washing and / or caring for the skin and / or hair. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair using such a composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The solid cosmetics market is currently in vogue, and many companies are putting on the market compositions in solid form, which are more ecological than liquid compositions, for washing and / or caring for the body, face or hair.

[0003] The oldest solid cosmetic compositions, widely used by consumers, are soaps, products resulting from a saponification reaction. Due to their high pH, ​​typically above 10, soaps are, however, very harsh on the skin, especially sensitive skin, and unsuitable for hair care.

[0004] Syndets, synthetic surfactants, have more recently emerged as an advantageous alternative to saponified products. Syndets offer the cleansing properties of conventional soaps, including good foaming power, while being less aggressive to the skin.

[0005] Consumers are increasingly vigilant regarding the composition of their cosmetic products and are seeking products with few chemical ingredients, preferring ingredients of natural origin, known for their better tolerance and affinity with the skin, and which are more environmentally friendly. However, products based on ingredients of natural origin generally lack sufficient quantity and / or quality of lather.

[0006] The development of cosmetic compositions exhibiting both a high degree of naturalness and very good foaming power is a challenge, especially since such combined properties must preferably be accompanied by other highly desirable characteristics for such cosmetic compositions, in particular with regard to their consistency, degree of stickiness, appearance and sensory characteristics.

[0007] The present invention aims to provide a solid cosmetic composition which meets all these criteria, and in particular has a physiological pH, is respectful of the epidermis and contains a maximum of ingredients of natural origin, while also having excellent foaming power, a beautiful appearance, including a shiny appearance and a homogeneous texture, pleasant for consumers.

[0008] Additional objectives of the invention are that this composition contains the fewest possible ingredients, and that it is suitable for use on all skin types, including sensitive and atopic skin.

[0009] The invention also aims to ensure that this solid composition has sufficient consistency so as not to crumble when handled, or when stored over time, i.e. that it is not too hard, but not too soft and sticky so that its use would be impractical and unpleasant, and its manufacture difficult by means of conventional manufacturing devices for solid compositions, in particular by extrusion. Description of the invention

[0010] The present inventors have discovered that such objectives are achieved by implementing a particular combination of surfactants, this combination having a much higher degree of naturalness than the syndets commonly used in the cosmetics industry, and, unexpectedly, a particularly high foaming power when it comes into contact with water. This combination of surfactants also makes it possible to form solid compositions that are both slightly sticky and of adequate hardness, exhibiting an attractive appearance, a homogeneous texture, and advantageous sensory characteristics.

[0011] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a solid cosmetic composition which contains: - a total of 30 to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of consistency agent(s), - at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms and / or at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines, advantageously of natural origin, - at least one anionic surfactant chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts being less than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the total surfactant content in the composition being between 10 and 50% in weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, this composition: - contains less than 8% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, - and is free of gelling agent or contains less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of gelling agent(s).

[0012] A solid composition is defined in this description, in a conventional manner, as a composition in block form, not flowing under its own weight. Such a definition specifically excludes powdered forms.

[0013] More specifically, for the purposes of the present invention, a solid composition is defined as any composition having a hardness (compressional strength) greater than or equal to 20 grams at room temperature, i.e., at a temperature between 20 and 25°C. This hardness can be measured by penetrating a cylindrical probe of revolution having a diameter of 0.8 cm into a matrix of the composition to a thickness of 8 mm at a speed of 1 mm / s, and measuring the penetration force of the probe. Any texture analysis device can be used for this purpose, in particular a TA.XT+ analyzer marketed by Stable Micro Systems.

[0014] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is of the type intended to be used, in particular for hygiene and / or skin and / or hair care, directly in its solid form, as opposed to solid compositions intended to be dissolved in water before use so as to constitute a liquid composition, the form in which they are intended to be used. Thus, unlike such compositions that must be dissolved prior to use, the composition according to the invention is free from, or contains very little of, i.e. less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, gelling agents.In particular, the composition according to the invention is devoid of, or contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, gelling agents selected from gums, more particularly selected from xanthan gum, diutan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglucan gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, Tamarindus indica seed gum and Caesalpinia spinosa gum.

[0015] The composition according to the invention is further preferably also free from substances capable of creating agitation upon contact with water, such as an effervescent base, in particular a combination of an organic acid and an alkali and / or alkaline-earth carbonate or hydrogen carbonate, for example citric acid and sodium carbonate.

[0016] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention can, for example, be presented packaged in the form of a loaf, pebble, ball, stick or rodlet, optionally in a refillable packaging device, etc.

[0017] The composition according to the invention further preferably comprises at least one acceptable cosmetic excipient.

[0018] In this description, "cosmetically acceptable" means that the salt or excipient is suitable for use by contact with human and animal cells, in particular skin or hair cells. Preferably, the excipient has a pleasant odor, color, and / or feel, and does not generate unacceptable discomfort likely to deter a user from the composition according to the invention.

[0019] In this description, "at least one" means a single compound or a mixture of several such compounds. Thus, with respect to surfactants, the composition according to the invention may, in particular, contain: - a single non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, or a plurality of such non-ionic surfactants, and / or a single amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines, or a plurality of such amphoteric surfactants, - and a single anionic surfactant chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, or a plurality of such anionic surfactants.

[0020] Such a specific mixture of surfactants advantageously ensures a high foaming power of the composition when the latter is brought into contact with water, as well as good quality of the foam formed. Without presuming the phenomena underlying these performances of the surfactant combination according to the invention, it can be assumed that they are due to a synergistic effect of the particular groups carried by these surfactants, in particular glucoside and / or amphoteric groups on the one hand, and isethionic acid / isethionate and / or sulfosuccinic acid / sulfosuccinate groups on the other hand, as well as to the particular chain length of the alkyl radical of the non-ionic alkyl glucoside surfactant, which contributes to its foaming power.

[0021] In particular, the present inventors have found that the partial replacement, in a solid cosmetic composition, of an anionic surfactant selected from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, by an alkyl glucoside in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular the replacement of 25 to 35% by weight of such an anionic surfactant by such an alkyl glucoside, does not in any way affect the foaming power of the composition, while allowing the formation of compositions with a higher naturalness index. This is This is all the more unexpected given that non-ionic surfactants are known for their low foaming power. In particular, by combining an anionic surfactant chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and a non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, a strong foaming power of the composition can be obtained with a total concentration of anionic surfactants particularly low compared to the concentrations recommended by the prior art, i.e. less than or equal to 20% by weight, and even less than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] In general, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably has a naturalness index, determined according to the calculation method of ISO 16128:2017, of approximately 85% or greater, and preferably approximately 90% or greater. All of its constituents are advantageously chosen to achieve such values. Thus, the ingredients contained in the composition according to the invention are preferably of natural origin, thereby meeting a very strong demand for formulations containing ingredients of natural origin, a demand that has been prominent in the cosmetics market for several years.

[0023] For this reason of naturalness, the composition according to the invention is preferably free of paraffin.

[0024] It is also preferably free of skin-irritating, drying, intolerance-causing, and / or allergenic ingredients. Thus, in addition to being free of amphoteric surfactants of the amidopropyl betaine class, preferably, the composition according to the invention is also free of anionic surfactants comprising at least one sulfate group, i.e., an -O-SO3H or -O-SO2-O- group, such as laureth sulfate or lauryl sulfate. Although sulfated surfactants have a particularly desirable foaming power, they are indeed aggressive to the epidermis.

[0025] Preferably, and also in order to improve its tolerance by users, the composition according to the invention is also preferably free of microplastics of the acrylate or silicone class, and preferably free of acrylate and silicone functional compounds.

[0026] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition does not contain an alkyl glucoside whose alkyl radical has more than 16 carbon atoms, for example, no arachidyl glucoside. Such a substance, unlike the C8-C16 alkyl glucosides recommended by the invention, notably imparts excessive hardness to the composition. In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition does not contain a mixture of arachidyl glucoside and arachidyl alcohol.

[0027] It is further advantageously soap-free, i.e., free of substances obtained by saponification, such as substances with INCI names sodium palmate, sodium cocoate, sodium olivate, sodium stearate, etc. The pH of the composition according to the invention is thus advantageously close to the physiological pH of the skin. It is preferably between 4.5 and 7, and more preferably between 5 and 6.5. The pH of the solid composition according to the invention can be measured by dissolving the composition in water, for example, at a ratio of 1 g of the composition in 100 g of water, and measuring the pH of the resulting solution.

[0028] The composition according to the invention further comprises 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and preferably 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of anionic surfactants selected from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuc-kinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] The total surfactant content in the composition is further to be between 10 and 50% by weight, preferably between 15 and 40% by weight, preferably between 15 and 35% by weight, and even more preferably between 20 and 30% by weight or between 15 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may, in particular, be between 18 and 25% by weight, for example between 18 and 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such ranges of values ​​ensure good foaming power of the composition and good quality of the foam formed, while also being associated with a reduced manufacturing cost of the composition.

[0030] The composition according to the invention comprises less than 8% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. The water content of the composition according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 7% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 6% by weight, and in particular less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is water-free or contains only trace amounts. In variants of the invention, the composition comprises from 0.5 to 4% by weight of water, and in particular from 1 to 3% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] The composition according to the invention may also meet one or more of the characteristics described below, implemented individually or in each of their technically operative combinations.

[0032] In particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition further contains at least one, i.e., one or more, anionic surfactant(s) selected from among acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts. The use of such an anionic surfactant of natural origin advantageously increases the naturalness index of the composition, without... degrade the foaming power, especially when incorporated into the composition as a partial replacement for the anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

[0033] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms and / or amphoteric surfactant(s) other than amidopropyl betaines in the composition is between 1 and 20% by weight, preferably between 2 and 15% by weight, more preferably between 2 and 10% by weight, and even more preferably between 3 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] The total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) in the composition is preferably between 10 and 35% by weight, in particular between 15 and 30% by weight, and preferably between 20 and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of surfactants contained in the composition.

[0035] Preferably, all the non-ionic surfactants contained in the composition according to the invention are alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0036] The total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms in the composition is preferably between 1 and 20% by weight, preferably between 2 and 15% by weight, more preferably between 2 and 10% by weight, and even more preferably between 3 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] The total content of amphoteric surfactant(s) other than amidopropyl betaines in the composition is preferably between 1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of surfactants contained in the composition.

[0038] The total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from among acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, when present in the composition, is preferably between 1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight and more preferably between 5 and 15% by weight or between 3 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from among acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, when present in the composition, is further comprised between 20 and 40% by weight, in particular between 20 and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of surfactants contained in the composition.

[0040] When present in the composition according to the invention, the surfactant(s) The anionic salt(s) selected from acylglutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts are preferably chosen from acylglutamic acids whose acyl group comprises a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and most preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The acyl group may, in particular, be selected from lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl, and oleoyl groups. The cosmetically acceptable salt of acylglutamic acid may be selected from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, and ammonium salts. For example, it may be selected from sodium, potassium, lithium, or magnesium salts, with sodium and potassium salts being particularly preferred for the purposes of this invention.The anionic surfactant(s) selected from among the acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts may, for example, be chosen from the group consisting of compounds with the INCI names: sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, and sodium stearoyl glutamate. Several anionic surfactant(s) selected from among the acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, particularly those meeting the above characteristics, may be used in the composition according to the invention, which may, for example, contain any mixture of two or more of the compounds listed above.Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single anionic surfactant selected from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, this anionic surfactant then preferably meeting one or more of the characteristics stated above, or no such surfactant.

[0041] The nonionic surfactant(s) selected from among the alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from the compounds with the INCI names: octyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and decyl glucoside. Several nonionic surfactants selected from among the alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms may be used in the composition according to the invention, which may, for example, contain any mixture of two or more of the above compounds (octyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and decyl glucoside). Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, this non-ionic surfactant then preferably meeting one or more of the characteristics stated above, or no such surfactant.

[0042] The amphoteric surfactant(s) other than amidopropyl betaines may, for example, be chosen from sodium caproamphoacetate, sodium caproamphopropionate, sodium capryloamphoacetate, capryloamphopropionate sodium, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium isostearamphoacetate, sodium isostearamphopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium oleoamphoacetate, sodium oleoamphopropionate, sodium stearoamphoacetate, sodium stearoamphopropionate, sodium tallow amphoacetate, sodium wheat germ amphoacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodi-propionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium isostearamodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium isostearamodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium isostearamodipropionate, disodium lauroamodipropionate, disodium stearoamphodiacetate, disodium tallow amphodiacetate and disodium wheat germ amphodiacetate.

[0043] Preferably, said at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines is selected from lauryl betaine, coco betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate.

[0044] Several amphoteric surfactants other than amidopropyl betaines may be used in the composition according to the invention, which may, for example, contain any mixture of two or more of the above compounds, in particular two or more of: lauryl betaine, coco betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, and disodium cocoamphodiacetate. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines, this amphoteric surfactant then preferably meeting one or more of the characteristics stated above, or no such surfactant.

[0045] In the class of amidopropyl betaines, excluded from the composition according to the invention, the following compounds may be mentioned in particular: behenamidopropyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, isostearamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, myristamidopropyl betaine, stearamidopropyl betaine, undecyleneamidopropyl betaine, as well as amidopropyl betaines derived from almond, apricot, avocado, babassu, rapeseed, coconut oil, sunflower oil, oat, olive, palm oil, castor oil, soy, shea butter or wheat germ.

[0046] The anionic surfactant(s) selected from among isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts are preferably selected from among acyl isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, such as the substances with the INCI names: sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl methyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate. Several anionic surfactant(s) selected from among isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts can be implemented in the composition according to the invention, which may, for example, contain any mixture of two or more of the above compounds. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single anionic surfactant selected from isethionic acids, preferably acyl isethionic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts, this anionic surfactant then preferably meeting one or more of the characteristics stated above, or no such surfactant.

[0047] The anionic surfactant(s) selected from among sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts are preferably selected from among alkyl sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, such as the substance with the INCI name disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate. Several anionic surfactant(s) selected from among sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts may be used in the composition according to the invention. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single anionic surfactant selected from among sulfosuccinic acids, preferably alkyl sulfosuccinic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts, this anionic surfactant then preferably meeting one or more of the characteristics stated above, or no such surfactant.

[0048] In general, the composition according to the invention preferably contains the fewest possible surfactants. Thus, in particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises no more than 6 surfactants, preferably no more than 5 surfactants, even more preferably no more than 4 surfactants, and preferably 3 or 2 surfactants. As indicated above, a strong foaming power can be obtained with two or three of the particular families of surfactants defined above, advantageously minimizing the number of ingredients in the composition.

[0049] The composition according to the invention may contain other anionic surfactants than those defined above. Preferably, it does not comprise any anionic surfactant other than isethionic acids, isethionates, sulfosuccinic acids, sulfosuccinates, acylglutamic acids, and acylglutamates. Similarly, the composition according to the invention may contain other nonionic surfactants than those defined above. Preferably, it does not comprise any nonionic surfactant other than alkyl glycosides whose alkyl group comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0050] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more cationic surfactants, for example, when intended for cosmetic hair treatment, for a conditioning treatment. Preferably, it is free of cationic surfactants of non-natural origin, and, more generally, of any cationic surfactant.

[0051] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition contains, at surfactant content only: - one or more, preferably only one, non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from among the alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, or one or more amphoteric surfactant(s) other than amidopropyl betaines, - one or more, preferably only one, anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids, preferably acyl isethionic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts, and sulfosuccinic acids, preferably alkyl sulfosuccinic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts, - and, optionally, one or more, preferably only one, anionic surfactant(s) selected from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

[0052] Preferably, the composition contains, as surfactants, only: - one or more, preferably only one, non-ionic surfactant(s) selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably in a content of between 2 and 10% by weight, for example between 3 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - one or more, preferably only one, anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids, preferably acyl isethionic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts, preferably in a content of between 10 and 20% by weight, for example between 10 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - and, optionally, one or more, preferably only one, anionic surfactant(s) chosen from among cosmetically acceptable acyl glutamic acids and their salts, preferably in a content of between 1 and 20% by weight, for example between 3 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] In such embodiments, preferably, the respective contents of each of said types of surfactants, relative to the total surfactant content in the composition, expressed as % by weight relative to the total weight of surfactants in the composition, are as follows: - 20 to 30% of non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and 70 to 80% of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids, preferably acyl isethionic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts, - or 20 to 30% of non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, 40 to 60% of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids, preferably acyl isethionic, and their cosmetically acceptable salts, and 20 to 30% of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

[0054] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fat-phase consistency agent, in a content of between 30 and 65% by weight, preferably between 30 and 60% by weight, preferably between 35 and 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such a concentration of consistency agent(s) in the composition advantageously ensures, in combination with the filler(s) that may also be contained therein, as mentioned below, optimal hardness and tackiness characteristics of the composition, in particular a hardness sufficiently low so that the composition does not crumble during handling by the user and sufficiently high so that the composition has a consistency that allows it to be easily handled, and a tackiness strong enough so that the composition has good cohesion, while being low enough not to diminish its practical and pleasant characteristics of use..

[0055] The composition according to the invention may in particular contain one or more consistency agent(s) selected from fatty alcohols, preferably C16-C22, fatty acids, in particular C16-C18, and hydrogenated castor oil.

[0056] Preferably, it contains at least one consistency agent selected from among the C16-C22 fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and / or 1” behenic alcohol.

[0057] In particular embodiments of the invention, when the composition comprises, as thickening agents, at least one or more fatty alcohols and one or more fatty acids, then the total content of fatty alcohols is greater, preferably at least four times greater, preferably at least five times greater, and even six times greater, than the total content of fatty acids. Such a characteristic advantageously ensures good qualitative properties for the composition, in particular a homogeneous texture, a smooth and glossy appearance, and good consistency.

[0058] In particular embodiments, the composition according to the invention, when it contains one or more fatty acid(s) as consistency agent(s), then also contains at least one fatty alcohol or hydrogenated castor oil.

[0059] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more emulsifiers, such as, for example, glycol palmitate (INCI name) or the products marketed under the names Montanov® 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside) and Montanov® 82 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Coco-Glucoside). Alternatively, it may be free of them. Preferably, it is free of an emulsifier formed from a mixture with the INCI name "arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside," such as the mixture marketed under the name Montanov® 202.

[0060] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition contains one or more cosmetically acceptable excipient(s). Each of these excipients is preferably chosen from fillers, emollients, in particular oils, and agents conditioners, stabilizers, perfumes, colorants and pigments.

[0061] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises, as a cosmetically acceptable excipient, at least one filler, which may be of either mineral or organic origin.

[0062] Examples of mineral fillers that can be used in the composition according to the invention include clays, ceramic beads, calcium carbonate, titanium oxides, kaolin, or aluminum silicate. Examples of organic fillers include starches, maltodextrin, celluloses such as cellulose beads, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium carbonate, nylon microspheres, micronized or non-micronized plant powders such as fruit powders or bamboo powders, or rice hull powder, and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains at least one filler selected from kaolin, maltodextrin, starches, celluloses, calcium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0064] The starches that can be used in the present invention may be derived from a plant source such as cereals, tubers, roots, vegetables, and fruits. These may include, for example, corn starch, potato starch, pea starch, rice starch, oat starch, barley starch, tapioca starch, wheat starch, cassaya starch, or sorghum starch. These starches may or may not be modified. A modified starch is a starch that has been modified by processes known to those skilled in the art, such as esterification, etherification, oxidation, acid hydrolysis, crosslinking, or enzymatic conversion. For example, microcrystalline cellulose, such as that sold under the name Vivapur® CS 9 FM, may be used as the cellulose. Kaolin sold under the name ImerCare® Opaque by the company Imerys can, for example, be used.

[0065] The total quantity of filler(s) in the composition according to the invention is preferably between 5 and 25% by weight, preferably between 5 and 20% by weight, for example between 15 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Thus, preferably, the total content of consistency agent(s) in the composition, in particular when the composition contains only one or more fatty alcohol(s) as consistency agent(s), or when it contains predominantly one or more fatty alcohol(s) as consistency agent(s), is greater than the total content of filler(s) in the composition.

[0067] Furthermore, when the composition contains one or more oils, the total content of filler(s) is preferably greater than the total content of oil(s).

[0068] In particular embodiments of the invention, the oil content of the composition is less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight and preferably less than 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. position.

[0069] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more emollients, in particular selected from vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil or jojoba oil, butters, such as shea butter, for example as sold under the name Lipex SheaLight® or Cetiol® SB 45, glycerin, lauroyl lysine, for example as sold under the name Amihope® LL.

[0070] The emollient content of the composition according to the invention is for example between 2 and 20% by weight, preferably between 2 and 15% by weight, and in particular between 2 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] The composition according to the invention may further contain one or more pH adjusters. It is preferably free of pH adjusters, in particular of the NaOH, citric acid, lactic acid, etc. type.

[0072] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition contains one or more conditioning agent(s), preferably not belonging to the category of cationic surfactants. Such agents provide beneficial effects for both hair and skin. Each of these conditioning agents may, in particular, be selected from isoamyl laurate, lauroyl lysine, erythritol, glyceryl oleate, for example as sold under the name DUB® OG, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, the combination of chitosan and mandelic acid, or any mixture thereof. The total amount of conditioning agent(s) in the composition is preferably between 0.01 and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 2% by weight, and preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] The composition according to the invention may further contain one or more conditioning agent(s) selected from guar and its derivatives, such as hydroxypropyl guar, in a total quantity of between 0.01 and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 2% by weight, and preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Where appropriate, the composition according to the invention may further contain one or more stabilizer(s), such as chelating agents, for example tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, as sold under the name Dissolvine® GL-47-S, vitamin E or tocopherol acetate, as sold under the name Covi-ox® T-90.

[0075] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more cosmetically active agents, in particular by topical application, for example chosen from moisturizing agents, antioxidants, vitamins, etc.

[0076] The content of cosmetically active agent(s) in the composition according to the invention may, for example, be between 0.05 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises one or more cosmetically active agent(s), each preferably being selected from hyaluronic acid, oat sap, helichrysum extracts, helichrysum essential oils, meadowfoam oil, in particular Limnanthes alba seed oil, oat seedlings, flower acids, such as the product marketed under the name Acides de Fleurs®, Garcinia extracts, milk thistle oil, niacinamide, edelweiss extracts, such as the product marketed under the name Alpaflor® Edelweiss, cinchona extracts, caffeine, peony extracts, mango butter and citron extracts, such a list not being in any way limiting of the invention.

[0078] The composition according to the invention may further contain an exfoliating agent, which will allow the skin (including the scalp) to be scrubbed by mechanical and / or chemical action, exfoliating agents acting by both mechanical and chemical action being particularly preferred in the context of the invention. The exfoliating agent may be chosen from agents of mineral, vegetable, or organic origin.Examples of exfoliating agents that can be used include polyethylene beads or powder, nylon particles, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice (INCI name: pumice), walnut shells, sawdust, wood flour, cork flour, glass beads, alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina), sugar crystals, and beads that melt upon application to the skin, such as mannitol and cellulose-based spheres, agar-based capsules, jojoba ester-based spheres, fruit kernel powders (e.g., apricot kernel), and mixtures thereof. The exfoliating agent(s) used should preferably be insoluble in water.

[0079] The composition according to the invention, in its desired form, can be prepared by any conventional method for the preparation of solid cosmetic compositions. Particularly preferred preparation methods within the scope of the invention are extrusion and hot casting.

[0080] A method for preparing a composition according to the invention by extrusion comprises preparing a pellet containing the surfactants of the composition, the consistency agent(s), and the excipient(s), to which other optional ingredients, in particular the active agent(s) and / or fragrance, are then added. The mixture is then extruded through various screens to homogenize and refine it. Once the mixture is homogenized, it forms a pellet which is cut and hammered to obtain a solid composition of the desired shape.

[0081] A method for preparing a composition according to the invention by hot casting comprises mixing the ingredients of the composition and heating the mixture obtained at a temperature of approximately 75-80°C. The hot, homogenized mixture is then poured into molds of the desired shape and left to cool.

[0082] These preparation processes are both simple and quick to implement.

[0083] Another aspect of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention for washing and / or caring for (including exfoliating) the skin, in particular the skin of the body and / or face and / or scalp, and / or hair, of an individual, preferably by topical application.

[0084] This use preferably includes successive steps consisting of: - wetting the composition with water, - developing foam, in particular by rubbing the wetted surface of the composition, - Apply this mousse to the skin and / or hair, preferably after the hair has been moistened. - and rinse, preferably with water, if necessary after a period of time and / or possible massage.

[0085] These steps can, for example, be implemented once or twice a day, for example in the morning and evening, or as often as necessary.

[0086] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention can in particular be used for washing and / or caring for sensitive or atopic skin.

[0087] In this description, sensitive skin means skin prone to irritation or allergic reactions due to various internal and external non-immunological factors. Atopic skin means skin affected by an inflammatory disease characterized by dryness associated with itching, such as in the case of eczema or atopic dermatitis.

[0088] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for the hygiene and / or care of an individual's skin and / or hair, using a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention. This method comprises successive steps consisting of: - Moisten the mixture with water, - to develop foam, - Apply the mousse to the skin and / or hair, - and rinse, preferably with water.

[0089] This process can meet any characteristic, or combination of characteristics, described above with reference to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention.

[0090] EXAMPLES

[0091] The features and advantages of the invention will become more apparent at the in light of the implementation examples below, provided for illustrative purposes only and in no way limiting the invention.

[0092] 1 / Examples of compositions

[0093] Solid compositions according to the invention, Cl, C2 and C3, intended for cosmetic treatment, for hygiene and care, of the skin of the body and face, meet the characteristics shown in Table 1 below.

[0094] [Tables 1] Cl C2 C3 Ingredient (INCI name) % w / w % w / w % w / w Sodium cocoyl isethionate 10 10 15 Decyl glucoside 5 5 5 Sodium myristoyl glutamate 5 5 - Behenyl alcohol 45 43 45 Stearic acid / palmitic acid 7 7 7 Corn starch 20 20 20 Polyglyceryl-4 caprate - 2 - Sunflower oil 2 2 2 Shea butter 1 1 1 Water 5 5 5

[0095] Table 1 - Examples of compositions according to the invention for hygiene and skin care of the body and face

[0096] Solid compositions not conforming to the invention, Comp4, Comp5, Comp6, Comp7 and Comp8, intended for cosmetic treatment, for hygiene and care, of the skin of the body and face, meet the characteristics shown in Table 2 below.

[0097] [Tables2] Comp4 Comp5 Compo Comp7 Comp8 Ingredient (INCI name) % w / w % w / w % w / w % w / w % w / w Sodium cocoyl isethionate 10 20 10 10 20 Decyl glucoside - - - - - Sodium myristoyl glutamate 10 - 5 10 - Behenyl alcohol 45 45 43 43 43 Stearic acid / palmitic acid 7 7 7 7 7 Corn starch 20 20 20 20 20 Polyglyceryl-4 caprate - - 2 2 2 Sunflower oil 2 2 2 2 2 Shea butter 1 1 1 1 1 Water 5 5 - 5 5 Montanov® 202 (behenyl alcohol / arachidyl alcohol / arachidyl glucoside) - - 10 - -

[0098] Table 2 - Examples of compositions not in accordance with the invention

[0099] 2 / Evaluation of the characteristics of the compositions

[0100] The compositions in Example 1 are evaluated on the following criteria: - Foaming power (quantity / quality): foam height, creaminess of foam, softness of foam, - Good tolerance, physiological pH, hypoallergenic, gentler and more respectful of the skin. - stability over time, - organoleptic characteristics (color, smell), - hardness, as measured by a texture analyzer; the composition must have sufficient consistency so as not to crumble but not be too soft, - stickiness, as measured by a texture analyzer, the composition must have a sufficient level of stickiness to prevent crumbling, but not so high as to be pleasant to use and able to be prepared under good conditions, particularly in an extrusion device, - pH: the measurement is made with a pH meter after diluting 1 g of the composition in 100 g of water, the objective being to verify that the pH corresponds to the physiological pH of the skin.

[0101] To this end, the following operating protocols are implemented.

[0102] For the evaluation of hardness and tackiness, a TA.XTplus texture analyzer is used, with a penetration and withdrawal speed of 1 mm / s, a trigger force of 5 g, a distance of 8 mm, and a Needle P / P2N. The composition is fixed to the texture analyzer table, and the following are measured: the needle penetration force (hardness measurement) and the needle exit force (tackiness evaluation). The results are expressed in grams.

[0103] For evaluating the foam height, a 250 ml graduated cylinder with an external diameter of 38.9 cm and an internal diameter of 36 cm, fitted with a stopper, is used. 0.5 g of the composition is placed in this cylinder, and demineralized water is added to bring the total volume to 50 ml. The cylinder is then stoppered and shaken vigorously 10 times. The foam height is read and expressed in mm.

[0104] The approximate naturalness index of each of the compositions is also determined, according to the calculation method of ISO 16128:2017.

[0105] The results obtained are shown in Table 3 below.

[0106] [Tables3] Composition Naturalness Index pH Foam Height Cl +++ 5.84 +++ C2 +++ 5.89 +++ C3 ++ 6.32 +++ Comp4 +++ 5.78 + Comp5 + 4.96 +++ Comp6 +++ 5.75 + Comp7 +++ 5.76 + Comp8 + 4.98 ++

[0107] Table 3 - Characteristics of the compositions Naturalness index: + indicates an index less than or equal to 80%; ++ indicates an index greater than 80% and less than 90%; and +++ indicates an index greater than or equal to 90%. Foam height: + indicates a height less than or equal to 60 mm; ++ indicates a height greater than 60 mm and less than 95 mm; and +++ indicates a height greater than or equal to 95 mm

[0108] The comparative compositions Comp5 and Comp8, comprising only sodium cocoyl isethionate as a surfactant, exhibit a very good foam height, as expected, but at the expense of the overall naturalness of these compositions, which is less than 80%, with the same ingredients otherwise. Furthermore, the pH of these compositions appears somewhat low (close to the lower end of the skin's physiological pH range).

[0109] Furthermore, it is observed that the compositions according to the invention Cl, C2 and C3 all exhibit a foam height: - as important, or even more so, than that of the comparative compositions Comp5 and Comp8, based solely on sodium cocoyl isethionate as a surfactant and otherwise of comparable composition, with equal total surfactant content, - and significantly higher than those of the comparative compositions Comp4, Compô and Comp7, which have comparable naturalness indices of 85% or more.

[0110] Combining decyl glucoside with sodium cocoyl isethionate thus increases the naturalness index of the composition without compromising its foaming power. An even higher naturalness index, greater than or equal to 90%, can be obtained without degrading foaming power by incorporating sodium myristoyl glutamate into the composition, replacing a portion of the sodium cocoyl isethionate.

[0111] The presence of a conditioner such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate in the composition according to invention C2 is advantageously not detrimental to the foaming power of the composition. On the contrary, when such an ingredient is contained in the comparative compositions, it adversely impacts their foaming power (a 10 mm decrease in foam height for composition Comp8 compared to Comp5, and for composition Comp7 compared to Comp4). Thus, a conditioning agent can be included in the composition according to the invention without prejudice to its foaming power. This characteristic proves particularly advantageous, as it makes it possible to form compositions with improved sensory properties without loss of foaming efficiency.

[0112] The hardness and tackiness are entirely satisfactory for all compositions according to the invention C1 to C3. These compositions exhibit a hardness and tackiness that ensure they do not crumble and are neither too soft nor too sticky, making them practical and pleasant to use and easy to shape, particularly in an extrusion device. They also have an attractive appearance and a homogeneous texture.

[0113] 3 / Influence of the consistency agent on foaming power

[0114] A composition according to invention C9 is described in Table 4 below. This composition differs from composition Cl according to the invention described above, the composition of which is given in Table 4, only in that the ratio of fatty alcohol(s) (INCI name "Behenyl alcohol") / fatty acid(s) (INCI name: "Stearic acid / palmitic acid") (consistency agents) is reversed.

[0115] The foam height obtained for each of these compositions is also indicated in Table 4.

[0116] [Tables4] Composition Cl C9 Ingredient (INCI name) % w / w % w / w Sodium cocoyl isethionate 10 10 Decyl glucoside 5 5 Sodium myristoyl glutamate 5 5 Behenyl alcohol 45 7 Stearic acid / palmitic acid 7 45 Corn starch 20 20 Sunflower oil 2 2 Shea butter 1 1 Water 5 5 Foam height +++ ++

[0117] Table 4 - Foam height obtained for compositions according to the invention differing in the combination of consistency agents Foam height: ++ indicates a height greater than 60 mm and less than 95 mm; and +++ indicates a height greater than or equal to 95 mm

[0118] As can be seen, the foaming power is optimized by the presence of a fatty alcohol in the majority quantity among the thickening agents. When the quantity of fatty alcohol is greater than the quantity of fatty acid, as in composition C1, the foaming power is particularly high. When the quantity of fatty alcohol is less than the quantity of fatty acid, as in composition C9, the foaming power remains satisfactory, although it is lower.

[0119] 4 / Examples of hair compositions according to the invention

[0120] Solid cosmetic compositions according to the invention, Cil, C12 and C13, particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment of hair, are described in Table 5. This table also shows the height of foam measured for each according to the protocol of Example 2.

[0121] [Tables5] Composition Cil C12 C13 Ingredient (INCI name) % w / w % w / w % w / w Sodium cocoyl isethionate 10 10 15 Decyl glucoside 3-8 3 - 8 2- 10 Sodium myristoyl glutamate 5- 15 5 - Behenyl alcohol 44 40-50 40-50 Stearic acid / palmitic acid 7 1 - 10 1 - 10 Corn starch 19 15-25 15-25 Glyceryl oleate 0.5 - - Hydroxypropyl guar - 0.3 - Isoamyl laurate - - 1.8 Quinine extract 1.5 1.5 1.5 Sunflower oil 2 2 2 Shea butter 1 1 1 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Foam height +++ +++ +++

[0122] Table 5 - Solid hair cosmetic compositions according to the invention -+++ indicates a foam height greater than or equal to 95 mm

[0123] These three compositions all combine a high degree of naturalness and strong foaming power.

Claims

Demands

1. Solid cosmetic composition, characterized in that it contains: - 30 to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of consistency agent(s), - at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms and / or at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines, - at least one anionic surfactant selected from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) selected from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts being less than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,and the total surfactant content in said composition being between 10 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and in that said composition: - contains less than 8% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, - is free from amphoteric surfactants of the amidopropyl betaine class, - and is free from gelling agents or contains less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of gelling agent(s).

2. Composition according to claim 1, further containing at least one anionic surfactant selected from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

3. Composition according to claim 2, wherein the acyl group of said at least one anionic surfactant selected from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts is a lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl or oleoyl group.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein said at least one non-ionic surfactant is octyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside or decyl glucoside.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines is coco betaine, lauryl betaine, cocoam- sodium phoacetate or disodium cocoamphodiacetate.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, containing, as surfactants, only: - one or more non-ionic surfactant(s) selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, - one or more anionic surfactant(s) selected from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, - and, optionally, one or more anionic surfactant(s) selected from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the content of non-ionic surfactant(s) selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and / or amphoteric surfactant(s) other than amidopropyl betaines is between 1 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, containing one or more consistency agents selected from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and hydrogenated castor oil.

9. Composition according to claim 8, containing at least one consistency agent selected from C16-C22 fatty alcohols.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, devoid of anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate group and / or paraffin.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, containing at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient selected from fillers, emollients, conditioning agents, stabilizers, perfumes, pigments, colorants and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to claim 11, comprising at least one filler selected from kaolin, maltodextrin, starches, celluloses, calcium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to claim 11 or 12, comprising a total quantity of filler(s) of between 5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, further containing an exfoliating agent.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14,

16.

17.

18.

19. including at least one cosmetically active agent selected from hyaluronic acid, oat sap, helichrysum extracts, helichrysum essential oils, meadowfoam oil, oat seedlings, flower acids, Garcinia extracts, milk thistle oil, niacinamide, edelweiss extracts, quinine extracts, caffeine, peony extracts, mango butter and citron extracts. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, packaged in the form of a loaf, pebble, stick or ball. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 for washing and / or caring for skin and / or hair. Use according to claim 17, for washing and / or caring for sensitive skin. A non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for the hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair, using a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, comprising successive steps consisting of: - moisten the said composition with water, - to develop foam, - apply the said mousse to the skin and / or hair, - and rinse.