Method for preparing a plant extract enriched in polar lipids

Abstract

The invention relates to a new process for preparing a plant extract from plant biomass comprising chlorophyll, polar lipids, and optionally triglycerides; a plant extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in a cosmetically acceptable solvent selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, or a mixture of at least two of these solvents, and for which the parameter a* according to the CIELAB color space is greater than or equal to -5; its use as a cosmetic active agent; and a cosmetic composition containing it. Abstract figure: Fig. 3

Description

Title of the invention: Process for preparing a plant extract enriched in polar lipids

[0001] The present invention relates to a new process for preparing a plant extract from plant biomass comprising chlorophyll, polar lipids and optionally triglycerides, a plant extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in a cosmetically acceptable solvent selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol or a mixture of at least two of these solvents, as well as its use as a cosmetic active agent and a cosmetic composition containing it.

[0002] Polar lipids are high-value molecules with strong potential as cosmetic active ingredients. Polar lipids are defined as any molecule containing a lipophilic portion, such as a fatty acid chain, and chemical functionalities that increase their polarity. However, their polarity makes it difficult to obtain an extract containing them that is uncolored by the presence of chlorophyll. Chlorophyll coloration of a natural extract is a significant technical challenge in the preparation of cosmetic formulations because it limits the level at which these extracts can be incorporated into a cosmetic formula, thus forcing formulators to restrict their use of the extract or to find alternative formulation solutions.

[0003] Chlorophyll can have several chemical structures, the two main ones being chlorophylls a and b. Chlorophyll a (symbol: "chl a") is the most common photosynthetic pigment in the plant kingdom. It is present in all aquatic and terrestrial plants ("3 g / kg of fresh leaves"). Measuring its concentration in water is used as an indicator of the amount of phytoplankton (the main base of the aquatic food web). Chlorophyll levels in water are given in pg chl a / L. Chlorophyll b is found in cormophytes (higher plants) and chlorophytes (green algae) at lower concentrations ("0.75 g / kg Fresh Matter").Three other forms are less common, notably chlorophylls c (cl, c2) identified in phaeophyceae (so-called brown algae), chlorophyll d identified in 1943 in cyanobacteria, and chlorophyll f identified in 2010 in certain stromatolites; its characteristic is an absorption shifted towards the red compared to other chlorophylls.

[0004] Today all natural extract bleaching techniques use additional steps following extraction and therefore add energy cost and waste.

[0005] The production of a decolorized extract of polar lipids can be approached in two ways: by optimizing the extraction, in particular by finding the right solvent or mixture of solvents to promote the extraction of polar lipids at the expense of chlorophyll and / or by adding a decolorization step according to various known techniques.

[0006] To optimize extraction, the difference in polarity between chlorophyll and polar lipids is used to promote the extraction of the latter. An ethanol / ethyl acetate mixture was tested at various ethanol / ethyl acetate ratios, but chlorophyll was always extracted (Chinese Journal of Process Engineering 2019, Vol. 19 Issue (1): 136-143). This type of extraction targets not only polar lipids but also neutral lipids. The use of supercritical carbon dioxide with and without a co-solvent promotes the extraction of lipids as well as chlorophyll (Journal of Supercritical Fluids 47 (2009) 591-597). The authors then specify that the extracts thus obtained must be purified via a decolorization step.

[0007] Various bleaching techniques exist with varying degrees of complexity and industrial feasibility, such as treatment with bleaching earth, liquid / liquid partition extraction, and treatment with an ion-exchange resin. In the context of polar lipid extraction, the most common techniques are liquid / liquid partitioning and filtration through bleaching earth. These approaches allow for the removal of chlorophyll present in the extracts but rely either on petroleum-based solvents, which are hazardous to health, or on additional consumables such as bleaching earths or activated carbon, generating additional waste and costs associated with its disposal or recycling.

[0008] For example, the removal of chlorophyll has been demonstrated by liquid / liquid partitioning using the hexane / ethanol / water system (Marine Drugs 12(3):1258-70). This process uses a solvent classified as a carcinogenic, mutagenic, and reprotoxic substance (CMR). Furthermore, hexane also extracts the triglyceride portion and does not differentiate from typical oil macerate extracts. This process also requires the use of additional water.

[0009] It has also been shown that a fractional extraction of the polar lipid and the neutral lipid separately is obtained by resuspending the ethanol extract via a liquid / liquid partition with the hexane / ethanol system (Renewable Energy Volume 118, April 2018, Pages 521-526). This process requires multiple extraction steps using ethanol and hexane and still does not allow for the removal of chlorophyll.

[0010] The French patent published under number FR 2 779 646 describes a process for extracting a vegetable oil by solvent such as ethanol, in which acetone is used to precipitate polar lipids which are then taken up in powder form.

[0011] All the techniques put forward, apart from the use of supercritical CO2, are not in line with the pillars of eco-design where the search for technological solutions must be guided by the economy of steps and therefore of energy, water and waste.

[0012] This is why the inventors have focused on developing a new process for preparing a plant extract comprising polar lipids, which makes it possible to eliminate the specific decolorization step (activated carbon, chromatographic column, liquid / liquid partition, or other).

[0013] The present invention thus relates to a process for preparing a plant extract from plant biomass comprising chlorophyll, polar lipids and optionally triglycerides, said plant extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in a cosmetically acceptable solvent selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol or a mixture of at least two of these solvents and for which the parameter a* according to the CIELAB color space is greater than or equal to -5, said process being characterized in that it comprises the following steps: - A step a) of making said plant biomass available, - A step b) of extraction of said polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides present in said plant biomass made available in step a), by mixing the latter with a first solvent SI of alcoholic and / or nonpolar type, to obtain a first liquid phase comprising said solvent SI, the residual biomass not dissolved in said solvent SI and said polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides dissolved in said solvent SI, - A step c) of separation by filtration, from said first liquid phase obtained at the end of step b), of said residual biomass not dissolved in said solvent SI, to obtain a second liquid phase comprising said solvent SI, said polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides dissolved in said solvent SI, - Optionally, a step d) of concentrating said second liquid phase obtained at the end of step c), by evaporating, at least partially, said first solvent SI, to obtain a concentrated second liquid phase comprising said solvent SI, said polar lipids, chlorophyll and optionally triglycerides dissolved in said solvent SI, - A step e) of mixing said second liquid phase obtained at the end of step c) or said second concentrated liquid obtained at the end of step d), with a second solvent S2 selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol or a mixture of at least two of these solvents, to obtain a third liquid phase comprising a mixture of said solvents SI and S2, said polar lipids, chlorophyll and optionally triglycerides, - A step f) of removing by evaporation the first solvent SI from said third liquid phase obtained in step e), to obtain a fourth liquid phase comprising said solvent S2, the chlorophyll and optionally the triglycerides not dissolved in said solvent S2 and said polar lipids dissolved in said solvent S2, and - A step g) of separation by filtration, from said fourth liquid phase obtained in step f), of chlorophyll and possibly of triglycerides not dissolved in said solvent S2, to obtain said expected plant extract.

[0014] The present invention also relates to a variant of the method as defined above, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: - A step h) of making said plant biomass available, - A step i) of extraction of polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides present in said plant biomass made available in step h), by mixing the latter with a first solvent SI of the alcoholic and / or nonpolar type and a second solvent S2 chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol or a mixture of at least two of these solvents, to obtain a fifth liquid phase comprising the solvents SI and S2, the residual biomass, said polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides, - A step j) of removal by evaporation of said first solvent SI present in said fifth liquid phase obtained in step i), to obtain a sixth liquid phase comprising said solvent S2, said residual biomass, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides not dissolved in said solvent S2 and said polar lipids dissolved in said solvent S2, and - A step k) of separation by filtration, from said sixth liquid phase obtained in step j), of said residual biomass, of chlorophyll and possibly of triglycerides not dissolved in said solvent S2, to obtain said expected plant extract.

[0015] In another alternative embodiment of the variant of the process according to the invention, said steps j and k can be replaced by the following steps. - A step 1) of separation by filtration, from said fifth liquid phase obtained in step i), of said residual biomass, to obtain a sixth liquid phase comprising the solvents SI and S2, said polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides, - A step m) of removing by evaporation said first solvent SI present in said sixth liquid phase obtained in step 1), to obtain a seventh liquid phase comprising said solvent S2, chlorophyll and optionally triglycerides not dissolved in said solvent S2 and said polar lipids dissolved in said solvent S2, and - A step n) of separation by filtration, from said seventh liquid phase obtained in step m), of chlorophyll and possibly of triglycerides not dissolved in said solvent S2, to obtain said expected plant extract.

[0016] The expression "cosmetically acceptable" used in the present invention means, according to Council Directive 76 / 768 / EEC of 27 July 1976 as amended by Directive 93 / 35 / EEC of 14 June 1993, any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp, nails, lips and genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the mouth with a view exclusively and principally to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and / or correcting their body odours and / or protecting them or keeping them in good condition.

[0017] In the context of the present invention, "plant extract" will be defined as any extract from plant biomass comprising chlorophyll, and in particular chlorophyll a, which is the most common photosynthetic pigment in the plant kingdom.

[0018] By "plant biomass" is meant the leaves and / or stems of a plant or an entire alga.

[0019] The plant biomass made available in step a) of the process or in step h) of the variant of the process is previously harvested and preferably dried. Preferably, said dried plant biomass is ground.

[0020] According to a preferred aspect of the process and its variant as defined above, said plant biomass is an algal biomass, particularly selected from the alga Himanthalia elongata, the alga Alaria esculenta and the alga Halidrys siliquosa.

[0021] According to a particular aspect of the process as defined above, step b) is carried out by macerating said plant biomass in a first SI solvent of the alcoholic and / or nonpolar type to prepare a mixture of said plant biomass with A first solvent SI, of the alcoholic and / or nonpolar type, is used, and this mixture is then agitated under conditions effective for extracting chlorophyll, polar lipids, and possibly triglycerides present in the plant biomass. The effective conditions are known to those skilled in the art, depending on the specific solvent S1 chosen and the specific plant biomass selected.

[0022] The first alcoholic-type solvent S1 used in the process and in its variant According to the invention, the alcohol is an alcohol or an aqueous solution comprising an alcohol. The alcohol is advantageously chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, methanol, or a mixture of two or more of these alcohols. The alcohol-to-water volume ratio in the aqueous solution may be between 50% and 99%, more particularly between 60% and 96%.

[0023] According to a preferred aspect of the process and its variant as defined above, the first solvent SI is 96% ethanol in water. Step b) of the process according to the invention is, for example, carried out with 96% ethanol in water as the first solvent SI at a temperature of 35°C to 45°C for approximately 30 minutes to 3 hours.

[0024] According to a particular aspect of the process as defined above, step b) is carried out by continuously passing a first nonpolar SI solvent through said plant biomass under conditions effective for extracting the chlorophyll, polar lipids, and optionally the triglycerides present in said plant biomass. The effective conditions are known to those skilled in the art based on the specific SI solvent chosen and the specific plant biomass chosen.

[0025] The first nonpolar SI solvent used in the process and its variant according to the invention is advantageously chosen from hexane, cyclohexane, methyl tetrahydrofuran, benzene, supercritical carbon dioxide or a mixture of two or more of these solvents.

[0026] According to a particular aspect of the process and its variant as defined above, the first solvent SI is supercritical carbon dioxide. Step b) of the process according to the invention is carried out under conditions known to those skilled in the art. For example, step b) is carried out with supercritical carbon dioxide as the first solvent SI at a pressure of 20 MPa to 60 MPa (200 to 600 bar) and at a temperature of 35 to 50 °C with a flow rate of 5 to 15 kg / h for approximately 60 minutes to 4 hours.

[0027] The first solvent SI used in the process and its variant according to the invention can be supercritical carbon dioxide with an alcoholic co-solvent (an alcohol or an aqueous solution comprising an alcohol), the alcohol being chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, methanol or a mixture of two or more of these alcohols.

[0028] The first solvent SI used in the variant of the process according to the invention can be supercritical carbon dioxide with a cosmetically acceptable co-solvent S2 selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol or a mixture of at least two of these solvents (in step i)).

[0029] The first solvent SI promotes the extraction of chlorophyll, polar lipids and possibly triglycerides present in said plant biomass and allows the solubilization of chlorophyll, said polar lipids and possibly said triglycerides.

[0030] “Residual biomass” means the fibrous material of the plant biomass remaining after the extraction of chlorophyll, polar lipids, and optionally triglycerides in step b) of the process or in step i) of the variant of the process according to the invention. The first liquid phase obtained in step b) may be in the form of a suspension in which the particles of the residual biomass are insoluble and dispersed in the solvent SI in which the polar lipids, chlorophyll, and optionally triglycerides are soluble, particularly when the plant biomass made available in step a) is dry and ground to have an average particle size enabling the first liquid phase to form a suspension.

[0031] The first liquid phase obtained in step b) can be in the form of a heterogeneous mixture in which the residual biomass is sedimented in the solvent SI in which said polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides are soluble.

[0032] Following this extraction step, the first liquid phase thus obtained is then filtered by means of, for example, a stainless steel basket to remove the residual biomass and obtain a second liquid phase comprising said solvent S1 in which said polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides are soluble (step c).

[0033] According to a particular aspect of the process as defined above, the second liquid phase obtained in step c) is concentrated to remove at least some of the solvent SL. For example, said solvent SI is evaporated by means of, for example, a vacuum evaporator to reduce the volume of said second liquid phase. This concentration step makes it possible to limit the size of the reactors used.

[0034] Said second liquid phase or said concentrated second liquid phase obtained from step c) or d) is then mixed with a second cosmetically acceptable solvent S2 selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol or a mixture of at least two of these solvents (step e). The addition of said solvent S2 to said second liquid phase or The second concentrated liquid phase (or the mixture of solvent S2 with the second liquid phase or the second concentrated liquid phase) renders insoluble the chlorophyll and possibly the triglycerides extracted from the plant biomass. A third liquid phase is then obtained, comprising a mixture of solvents S1 and S2, in which polar lipids are soluble and the chlorophyll and possibly the triglycerides extracted from the plant biomass are insoluble.

[0035] The quantity of solvent SI used is determined by the quantity of biomass to be extracted made available in step a) or step h), and the quantity of solvent S2 is determined by the desired mass content of the final dry extract in the extract obtained. For example, for 50 kg of biomass, 600 kg of solvent SI and 150 kg of solvent S2 are used to obtain an extract with a dry extract content of 2%.

[0036] According to a preferred aspect of the process and its variant as defined above, said second solvent S2 is 1,3-propanediol.

[0037] According to a preferred aspect of the process and its variant as defined above, said first solvent SI is 96% ethanol in water and said second solvent S2 is 1,3-propanediol.

[0038] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, step b) of extraction with solvent SI and step e) of addition of solvent S2 (mixture with solvent S2) are carried out in a single step (step i).

[0039] The extraction of polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides present in said plant biomass in step i) is advantageously carried out by contacting solvents SI and S2 simultaneously or successively with said plant biomass made available in step h) or by contacting a mixture of solvents SI and S2 previously prepared.

[0040] Advantageously, said first solvent SI is 96% ethanol in water and said second solvent S2 is 1,3-propanediol.

[0041] Mixing said plant biomass with solvents S1 and S2, for example by maceration and agitation, in particular with a mixture of solvents S1 and S2, makes it possible to extract the polar lipids, chlorophyll, and possibly triglycerides present in said plant biomass and to render the chlorophyll and possibly the triglycerides insoluble in solvents S1 and S2 or in said mixture of solvents S1 and S2, while solubilizing the polar lipids. A fifth liquid phase is then obtained, comprising said solvents S1 and S2, in which the polar lipids are soluble and the residual biomass, chlorophyll, and possibly triglycerides extracted from the plant biomass are insoluble.

[0042] The fifth liquid phase obtained in step i) then undergoes the removal of said first solvent SI by evaporation, advantageously until total evaporation of solvent SI, to obtain a sixth liquid phase comprising said solvent S2, in in which polar lipids are soluble and residual biomass, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides extracted from plant biomass are insoluble (step j)-

[0043] Similarly, the third liquid phase obtained in step e) of the process undergoes the removal of said first solvent SI by evaporation, advantageously until total evaporation of solvent S1 to obtain a fourth liquid phase comprising said solvent S2, in which polar lipids are soluble and chlorophyll and optionally triglycerides extracted from plant biomass are insoluble (step f).

[0044] In the process and its variant according to the invention, the removal of solvent S1 promotes the precipitation of chlorophyll and possibly of triglycerides insoluble in solvent S2.

[0045] The polarity of the second solvent S2 is important in order to precipitate chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides, and to solubilize polar lipids.

[0046] Advantageously, the boiling point of solvent S1 is lower than that of solvent S2.

[0047] Following step g) or k) of separation by filtration of insoluble or precipitated matter, a plant extract comprising the polar lipids dissolved in said solvent S2 is obtained.

[0048] According to a preferred aspect of the process and its variant as defined above, said polar lipids belong to the group consisting of: - free fatty acids and their hydroxylated and unsaturated derivatives of formula R1-(C=O)-OH, where RI represents a linear or branched aliphatic alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 5 to 23 carbon atoms and optionally one or more hydroxy functions, - glycolipids, including digalactosidediacylglycerides, digalactosidemnoacylglycerides, monogalactosidediacylglycerides, monogalactosidemonoacylglycerides, sulfoquinovosyldiacylglycerides, and / or sulfoquinovosylmonoacylglycerides, - phospholipids, such as phosphoethanolamines, phosphatidylinositol, lysophosphatidylethanolamines, phosphatidic acids, phosphatidylcholine and lysophosphatidylcholines, - sphingolipids, and - meroditerpenoids.

[0049] The plant extract thus obtained advantageously contains neither chlorophyll nor triglycerides. This is evidenced by the parameter a* according to the CIELAB color space of said extract, which is greater than or equal to -5.

[0050] In the International Colorimetric System, the parameters of the L*a*b* system express the following characteristics:

[0051] the clarity L* which takes values ​​between 0 (black) and 100 (reference white);

[0052] the parameter a* represents the value on a green —> red axis;

[0053] The parameter b* represents the value on a blue —> yellow axis.

[0054] The parameter a* is commonly used in the field of colorimetry (CIE system) to measure the value of a color on a green-to-red axis. Indeed, the parameter a* describes the position between the opposing colors green and red. If a* < 0, the color tends towards green, and if a* > 0, the color tends towards red. When a* > -5, the green coloration associated with chlorophyll is not perceptible to the naked eye.

[0055] The present invention also relates to a plant extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in a cosmetically acceptable solvent selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol or a mixture of at least two of these solvents and for which the parameter a* according to the CIELAB color space is greater than or equal to -5, obtained by the process as defined above.

[0056] The present invention also relates to a plant extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in a cosmetically acceptable solvent selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol or a mixture of at least two of these solvents and for which the parameter a* according to the CIELAB color space is greater than or equal to -5, obtained by the variant of the process as defined above.

[0057] According to a preferred aspect of the invention, said plant extract obtained by the process or by its variant according to the invention comprises polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol and for which the parameter a* according to the CIELAB color space is greater than or equal to -5.

[0058] According to a preferred aspect of the invention, said plant extract as defined above comprises polar lipids belonging to the constituent of: - free fatty acids and their hydroxylated and unsaturated derivatives of formula R1-(C=O)-OH, where RI represents a linear or branched aliphatic alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 5 to 23 carbon atoms and optionally one or more hydroxy functions, - glycolipids, including digalactosidediacylglycerides, digalactosidemnoacylglycerides, monogalactosidediacylglycerides, monogalactosidemonoacylglycerides, sulfoquinovosyldiacylglycerides, and / or sulfoquinovosylmonoacylglycerides, - phospholipids, such as phosphoethanolamines, phosphatidylinositol, lysophosphatidylethanolamines, phosphatidic acids, phosphatidylcholine and lysophosphatidylcholines, - sphingolipids, and - meroditerpenoids.

[0059] The invention also relates to the use of a plant extract as defined above, as a cosmetic active agent, in a cosmetic composition for topical use.

[0060] For the purposes of this invention, “cosmetic active agent” means a chemical substance or chemical composition or an extract derived from plant biomass that exhibits specific biological properties such as: - properties for preventing and / or treating the unsightly effects of skin and / or lip aging - hydrating properties for the different layers of the skin, and more specifically for the stratum corneum of the epidermis, - soothing properties for the skin, scalp, mucous membranes, and lips, such as the prevention and / or reduction and / or treatment of redness and / or itching and / or tingling and / or tightness, - skin-purifying properties for the skin, scalp, mucous membranes, and lips, - lipolytic properties, - hair follicle regrowth properties, - properties that prevent hair follicle loss.

[0061] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition for topical use comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient and an effective amount of the plant extract as defined above.

[0062] The expression "for topical use" used in the definition of the cosmetic composition that is the subject of the present invention means that said composition is formulated to allow its application on the skin, hair, scalp, nails, lips, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, whether it is a direct application or an indirect application when said composition is incorporated, for example, in the case of a body care product in the form of a textile or paper wipe or of sanitary products intended to be in contact with the skin, hair, scalp, nails, lips, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows.

[0063] In the context of the invention, the cosmetically acceptable ingredient is a chemical and / or biological additive commonly used in topical formulations. Generally, the plant extract that is the subject of the The present invention can be associated with chemical and / or biological additives commonly used in topical formulations, such as foaming and / or detergent surfactants, thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizing agents, film-forming compounds, solvents and co-solvents, hydrotropic agents, thermal or mineral waters, plasticizing agents, emulsifying and co-emulsifying agents, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, oils, waxes, antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, conditioning agents, deodorizing agents, bleaching agents for hair and skin lightening, active ingredients intended to provide a treatment and / or protective action on the skin or hair, and sunscreens.Mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active ingredients, exfoliating particles, texturizing agents, optical brighteners, insect repellents, probiotics.

[0064] By effective quantity of the plant extract as defined above, we mean for 100% of the mass of said composition, the quantity between 0.05% and 10% by mass, more particularly between 0.1% and 5% by mass, and even more particularly between 0.5% and 2% by mass of said extract.

[0065] According to a preferred aspect of the invention, the cosmetic composition that is the subject of the present invention comprises, by mass, 100% of:

[0066] - from 0.05% to 10% by mass of the plant extract as defined above, or of the extract plant obtained by the process as defined above, and

[0067] - from 90% to 99.95% by mass of at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient.

[0068] The cosmetic composition of the present invention, in the form of an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic or hydro-glycolic solution, in the form of a suspension, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nano-emulsion, whether of the water-in-oil, oil-in-water, water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil type, or in the form of a powder.

[0069] The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be packaged in a bottle, in a pump "bottle" type device, a pressurized aerosol device, in a device with a perforated wall such as a grid or in a device with a ball applicator (or also called "roll-on").

[0070] Examples of foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be associated with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, include anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic foaming and / or detergent surfactants.

[0071] Among the anionic foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be combined with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, we can mention the salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium, amines, or amino alcohols of alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alpha olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sarcosinates, acyl isethionates, N-acyl taurates, acyl lactylates, N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, N-acylated derivatives of peptides, N-acylated derivatives of proteins, N-acylated derivatives of fatty acids.

[0072] Among the amphoteric foaming and / or detergent surfactants, alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates may be mentioned.

[0073] Among the cationic foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be associated with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, quaternary ammonium derivatives can be particularly mentioned.

[0074] Among the non-ionic foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be associated with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, we can mention more particularly alkyl polyglycosides comprising an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as octyl polyglucoside, decyl polyglucoside, undecylenyl polyglucoside, dodecyl polyglucoside, tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, 1-12 dodecanediyl polyglucoside; ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil derivatives such as the product marketed under the INCI name "Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil"; polysorbates such as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 70, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 85; coconut amides; N-alkylamines.

[0075] Examples of thickening and / or gelling surfactants that can be combined with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition of the present invention as defined above include fatty esters of alkyl polyglycosides, possibly alkoxylated, such as ethoxylated methyl polyglucoside esters like PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, marketed respectively under the names GLUCAMATE™ LT and GLUMATE™ DOE120; and alkoxylated fatty esters such as PEG-150 pentaerythryl tetrastearate marketed under the name CROTHIX™ DS53, PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate marketed under the name ANTIL™ 141; fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates such as PPG-14 laureth isophoryl dicarbamate marketed under the name ELFACOS™ T211, PPG-14 palmeth-60 hexyl dicarbamate marketed under the name ELFACOS™ GT2125.

[0076] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition of the present invention as defined above include linear, branched, or crosslinked polyelectrolyte-type polymers, such as partially or totally salified acrylic acid homopolymer, partially or totally salified methacrylic acid homopolymer, partially or totally salified 2-methyl-[(l-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-l-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) homopolymer, acrylic acid and AMPS copolymers, acrylamide and AMPS copolymers, vinylpyrolidone and AMPS copolymers, AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate copolymers, and AMPS and of (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, AMPS and hydroxyethylacrylamide copolymers, AMPS and N,N-dimethylacrylamide copolymers,copolymers of AMPS and tris(hydroxymethyl)acrylamidomethane (THAM), copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and hydroxyethylacrylamide, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and THAM, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and N,N-dimethylacrylamide, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and THAM, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and N,N-dimethyl acrylamide, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and acrylamide,copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and alkyl acrylates having a carbon chain of between four and thirty carbon atoms and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms, copolymers of AMPS and alkyl acrylates having a carbon chain of between four and thirty carbon atoms and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms, linear, branched or crosslinked terpolymers of at least one monomer having a strong acid function, free, partially salified or totally salified, with at least one neutral monomer, and at least one monomer of formula (XIII): ,

[0077] CH2=C(R'3)-C(=O)-[CH2-CH2-O]n'-R'4 (XIII)

[0078] in which R'3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R'4 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising eight to thirty carbon atoms and n' represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to fifty.

[0079] Polyelectrolyte-type polymers, linear or branched or crosslinked, which can be associated with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, can be in the form of a solution, an aqueous suspension, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, or a powder.Polyelectrolyte-type polymers, linear, branched, or cross-linked, which can be combined with the hydro-alcoholic extract from the biomass of aerial parts of a plant of the Plumbaginaceae family in the composition (Ci), can be selected from products marketed under the names SIMULGEL™ EG, SIMULGEL™ EPG, SEPIGEL™ 305, SIMULGEL™ 600, SIMULGEL™ NS, SIMULGEL™ INS 100, SIMULGEL™ FL, SIMULGEL™ A, SIMULGEL™ SMS 88, SEPINOV™ EMT 10, SEPIPLUS™ 400, SEPIPLUS™ 265, SEPIPLUS™ S, SEPIMAX™ Zen, SEPILIFE™ NUDE, ARISTOFLEX™ AVC, ARISTOFLEX™AVS, ARISTOFLEX™AVL, ARISTOFLEX™BLV, ARISTOFLEX™Silk, ARISTOFLEX™TAC, ARISTOFLEX™Velvet, ARISTOFLEX™A60, ARISTOFLEX™ECO T, ARISTOFLEX™PEA, ARISTOFLEX™PEA 70, NOVEMER™EC-1, NOVEMER™EC 2, ARISTOFLEX™HMB, COSMEDIA™SP, FLOCARE™ET 25, FLOCARE™ET 75, FLOCARE™ET 26, FLOCARE™ ET 30, FLOCARE™ET 58, FLOCARE™ PSD 30, VISCOLAM™AT 64, VISCOLAM™AT 100, TEXIQUE™ HE 10, TEXIQUE™ HE 20, TEXIQUE™ PQ 37. .

[0080] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be associated with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, include polysaccharides consisting solely of sugars, such as glucans or glucose homopolymers, glucomannoglucans, xyloglycans, galactomannans whose degree of substitution (DS) of the D-galactose units on the main D-mannose chain is between 0 and 1, and more particularly between 1 and 0.25, such as galactomannans from cassia gum (DS = 1 / 5), carob gum (DS = 1 / 4), tara gum (DS = 1 / 3), guar gum (DS = 1 / 2), fenugreek gum (DS = 1).

[0081] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, include polysaccharides made up of derivatives of oses, such as sulfated galactans and more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronans and more particularly algins, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of oses and uronic acids and more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, exudates of gum arabic and karaya gum, glucosaminoglycans.

[0082] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be associated with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, include cellulose, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic starch derivatives, polyurethanes.

[0083] Examples of stabilizing agents that can be associated with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, include microcrystalline waxes, and more particularly ozokerite, mineral salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride, silicone polymers such as polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers.

[0084] Examples of solvents that can be associated with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, include water, organic solvents such as glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, and mixtures of water and said organic solvents.

[0085] Examples of thermal or mineral waters that can be combined with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, include thermal or mineral waters with a mineralization of at least 300 mg / L, in particular Avene water, Vittel water, the waters of the Vichy basin, Uriage water, La Roche-Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevard-les-Bains water, Digne water, Les Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Rochefort water, Saint-Christau water, Les Fumades water, and the water of Tercis-les-bains.

[0086] Examples of hydrotropic agents that can be associated with the plant extract in the composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, include xylenes sulfonates, cumenes sulfonates, hexyl polyglucoside, 2-ethylhexyl polyglucoside, and n-heptyl polyglucoside.

[0087] Examples of emulsifying surfactants that can be associated with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, include non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and cationic surfactants.

[0088] Examples of non-ionic emulsifying surfactants that can be combined with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition of the present invention as defined above include fatty acid and sorbitol esters, such as the products marketed under the names MONTANE™40, MONTANE™60, MONTANE™70, MONTANE™80 and MONTANE™85; compositions comprising glyceryl stearate and ethoxylated stearic acid with between 5 and 150 moles of ethylene oxide, such as the composition comprising ethoxylated stearic acid with 135 moles of ethylene oxide and glyceryl stearate marketed under the name SIMULSOL™ 165; mannitan esters; ethoxylated mannitan esters; sucrose esters; methylglucoside esters;alkylpolyglycosides having an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and having from 14 to 36 carbon atoms, such as tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, octadecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyxyloside, octadecyl polyxyloside, eicosyl polyglucoside, dodecosyl polyglucoside, 2-octyldodecyl polyxyloside, 12-hydroxystearyl polyglucoside; compositions of linear or branched fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, and comprising from 14 to 36 carbon atoms, and of alkyl polyglycosides as described above, for example compositions marketed under the names MONTANOV™68, MONTANOV™14, MONTANOV™82, MONTANOV™202, MONTANOV™S, MONTANOV™W018, MONTANOV™L, FLUIDANOV™20X and EASYNOV™.

[0089] Examples of emulsifying anionic surfactants that can be associated with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, include glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl sulfate, soaps such as sodium stearate or triethanolammonium stearate, N-acylated derivatives of salified amino acids, for example stearoyl glutamate.

[0090] Examples of emulsifying cationic surfactants that can be associated with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, include aminoxides, quaternium-82 and the surfactants described in patent application WO96 / 00719 and principally those whose fatty chain comprises at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0091] Examples of opacifying and / or pearlescent agents that can be combined with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, include sodium palmitate and stearate. sodium, sodium hydroxystearate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0092] Examples of texturizing agents that can be associated with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, include N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine marketed under the name AMINOHOPE™LL, octenyl starch succinate marketed under the name DRYFLO™, myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV™ 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite and mica.

[0093] Examples of deodorizing agents that can be combined with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition of the present invention as defined above include alkali silicates; zinc salts such as zinc sulfate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; glycerol derivatives such as glyceryl caprate, glyceryl caprylate, polyglycerol caprate; 1,2-decanediol; 1,3-propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metallic zeolites; TRICLOSAN™;aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrates, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulfate, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octochlorohydrate, aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum lactate, aluminum chlorohydrate and glycol complexes, such as aluminum chlorohydrate and propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate and propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and propylene glycol complex, aluminum chlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol complex.

[0094] Examples of oils that can be combined with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, include the following compounds: - Linear alkanes containing eleven to nineteen carbon atoms, such as n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane, n-hexadecane, n-heptadecane, n-octadecane, n-nonadecane; - Branched alkanes, containing from seven to forty carbon atoms, such as isododecane, isopendatecane, isohexadecane, isoheptadecane, isooctadecane, isonadecane or isoeicosane, or mixtures of some of them such as those listed below and identified by their INCI name: C7-8 isoparaffin, C8-9 isoparaffin, C9-11 isoparaffin, C9-12 isoparaffin, C9-13 isoparaffin, C9-14 isoparaffin, C9-16 isoparaffin, C10-11 isoparaffin, C10-12 isoparaffin, C10-13 isoparaffin, Cl 1-12 isoparaffin, Cl 1-13 isoparaffin, Cl 1-14 isoparaffin, Cl2-14 isoparaffin, Cl2-20 isoparaffin, C13-14 isoparaffin, C13-16 isoparaffin; - Cycloalkanes optionally substituted by one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals; - White mineral oils, such as those sold under the following names:

[0095] Marcol™52, Marcol™82, Drakeol™6VR, Eolane™130, Eolane™150; - Hemisqualane (or 2,6,10-trimethyl-dodecane; CAS number: 3891-98-3), squalane (or 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane), hydrogenated polyisobutene or hydrogenated polydecene; - Mixtures of alkanes comprising 15 to 19 carbon atoms, said alkanes being linear alkanes, branched alkanes and cycloalkanes, and more particularly the mixture (Ml) which comprises, for 100% of its mass, a mass proportion of branched alkanes greater than or equal to 90% and less than or equal to 100%; a mass proportion of linear alkanes greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 9%, and more particularly less than 5% and a mass proportion of cycloalkanes greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 1%, for example the mixtures marketed under the names Emogreen™L15 or Emogreen™L19; - Linear alkane mixtures such as the n-undecane and n-tridecane mixture such as that marketed under the brand name Cetiol Ultimate™; - mixtures of linear alkanes such as the mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane that marketed under the brand name Vegelight™ 12-14; - Fatty alcohol ethers of formula (II):

[0096] Z1-O-Z2 (II), in which ZI and Z2, whether identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical having from five to eighteen carbon atoms, for example dioctyl ether, didecyl ether, didodecyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, dihexadecyl ether, (1,3-dimethyl butyl) tetradecyl ether, (1,3-dimethyl butyl) hexadecyl ether, bis(1,3-dimethyl butyl) ether or dihexyl ether; - Monoesters of fatty acids and alcohols of formula (III):

[0097] R' 1-(C=O)-O-R'2 (III),

[0098] wherein R' 1-(C=O) represents an acyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from eight to twenty-four carbon atoms, and R'2 represents, independently of R' 1, a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, comprising from one to twenty-four carbon atoms, for example methyl laurate, ethyl laurate, propyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, butyl laurate, 2-butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, methyl cocoate, ethyl cocoate, propyl cocoate, isopropyl cocoate, butyl cocoate, 2-butyl cocoate, hexyl cocoate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, the 2-Butyl myristate, hexyl myristate, octyl myristate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, 2-Butyl palmitate, hexyl palmitate, octyl palmitatemethyl oleate, ethyl oleate, propyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, butyl oleate, 2-butyl oleate, hexyl oleate, octyl oleate, methyl stearate, ethyl stearate, propyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, 2-butyl stearate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, methyl isostearate, ethyl isostearate, propyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, 2-butyl isostearate hexyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate; - Fatty acid and glycerol diesters of formula (IV) and formula (V):

[0099] R'3-(C=O)-O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O-(C=O)-R'4 (IV)

[0100] R'5-(C=O)-O-CH2-CH[O-(C=O)-R'6]-CH2-OH (V),

[0101] formulas (VI) (VII) in which R'3-(C=O), R'4-(C=O), R'5-(C=O), R'6-(C=O), identical or different, represent an acyl group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from eight to twenty-four carbon atoms; - Triesters of fatty acids and glycerol with formula (VI):

[0102] R'7-(C=O)-O-CH2-CH[O-(C=O)-R”8]-CH2-O-(C=O)-R”9 (VI),

[0103] wherein R'7-(C=O), R'8-(C=O) and R'9-(C=O), identical or different, represent an acyl group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from eight to twenty-four carbon atoms; - Vegetable oils, such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil, oils derived from flowers or vegetables; - Ethoxylated vegetable oils.

[0104] In this application, "oils" means compounds and / or mixtures of compounds insoluble in water, which are in a liquid state at a temperature of 25 °C.

[0105] Examples of waxes that can be combined with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition that is the subject of the present invention as defined above include beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids that are solid at room temperature; and glycerides that are solid at room temperature. In this application, "waxes" means compounds and / or mixtures of compounds that are insoluble in water and are solid at a temperature of 45°C or higher.

[0106] Examples of active ingredients that can be associated with the plant extract in the composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, include vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate for example), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (such as ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); compounds showing a skin-lightening or depigmenting action such as co-undecelynoyl phenylalanine marketed under the name SEPIWHITE™MSH, SEPICALM™VG, the mono-ester and / or glycerol diester of co-undecelynoyl phenylalanine, co-undecelynoyl dipeptides, arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone;compounds exhibiting a soothing action, including SEPICALM™ S, allantoin, and bisabolol; anti-inflammatory agents; compounds exhibiting a moisturizing action such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerol glucoside, diglycerol glucoside, polyglyceryl glucoside, and xylitylpoglucoside; plant extracts rich in polyphenols such as grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, and olive extracts; compounds exhibiting a slimming or lipolytic action such as caffeine or its derivatives, ADIPOSLIM™, ADIPOLESS™, and fucoxanthin; N-acylated proteins; N-acylated peptides such as MATRIXIL™; N-acylated amino acids; partial hydrolysates of N-acylated proteins; amino acids; and peptides. total protein hydrolysates; soy extracts, for example Raffermine™; wheat extracts, for example TENSINE™ or GLIADINE™; marine plant extracts; marine extracts in general, such as corals; essential waxes; bacterial extracts; ceramides; phospholipids; compounds showing antimicrobial or purifying action, such as LIP ACIDE™ C8G, LIP ACIDE™ UG, SEPICONTROL™ A5; OCTOPIROX™ or SENSIVA™ SC50; compounds showing energizing or stimulating properties, such as PHYSIOGENYL™, panthenol and its derivatives, such as SEPICAP™ MP; anti-aging active ingredients such as SEPILIFT™ DPHP, LIPACIDE™ PVB, SEPIVINOL™, SEPIVITAL™, MANOLIVA™, PHYTO-AGE™, TIMECODE™; SURVICODE™; anti-photoaging active ingredients; active ingredients that protect the integrity of the dermo-epidermal junction; active ingredients that increase the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans;active ingredients that act favorably on chemical cell communication such as cytokines or physical cell communication such as integrins; active ingredients that create a "warming" sensation on the skin such as activators of cutaneous microcirculation (such as nicotinic acid derivatives) or products that create a "cooling" sensation on the skin (such as menthol and derivatives); active ingredients that improve cutaneous microcirculation, for example venotonics; draining active ingredients; decongestant active ingredients such as extracts of ginkgo biloba, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, butcher's broom, centella asiatica, fucus, rosemary, willow;skin tanning or browning agents, for example dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, glyceraldehyde, alloxan, ninhydrin, plant extracts for example extracts of red woods of the genus Pterocarpus and of the genus Baphia such as Pterocarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida such as those described in European patent application EP 0 971 683;agents known for their action of facilitating and / or accelerating tanning and / or browning of human skin, and / or for their action of coloring human skin, for example carotenoids (and more particularly beta carotene and gamma carotene), the product marketed under the brand name "Carrot oil" (INCI name: Daucus Carota, helianthus annuus Sunflower oil) by the company Provital, which contains carotenoids, vitamin E and vitamin K; tyrosine and / or its derivatives, known for their effect on accelerating tanning of human skin in association with exposure to ultraviolet radiation, for example the product marketed under the brand name "SunTan Accelerator™" by the company Provital which contains tyrosine and riboflavins (vitamin B), the tyrosine and tyrosinase complex marketed under the name of; the brand "Zymo Tan Complex" by the company Zymo Line, the product marketed under the brand name MelanoBronze™ (INCI name: Acetyl Tyrosine, Monk's pepper extract (Vitex Agnus-castus)) by the company Mibelle which contains acetyl tyrosine, the product marketed under the brand name Unipertan VEG-24 / 242 / 2002 (INCI name: butylene glycol and Acetyl Tyrosine and hydrolyzed vegetable protein and Adenosine triphosphate) by the company UNIPEX, the product marketed under the brand name "Try-Excell™" (INCI name: Oleoyl Tyrosine and Luffa Cylindrica (Seed) Oil and Oleic acid) by the company Sederma which contains pumpkin seed extract (or Loofah oil), the product marketed under the brand name "Actibronze™" (INCI name: hydrolyzed wheat protein and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) by the company Alban Muller, the product marketed under the brand name Tyrostan™ (INCI name: potassium caproyl tyrosine) by the company Synerga,the product marketed under the brand name Tyrosinol (INCI name: Sorbitan Isostearate, glyceryl oleate, caproyl Tyrosine) by the company Synerga, the product marketed under the brand name InstaBronze™ (INCI name: Dihydroxyacetone and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) marketed by the company Alban Muller, the product marketed under the brand name Tyrosilane (INCI name: methylsilanol and acetyl tyrosine) by the company Exymol; peptides known for their melanogenesis-activating effect, for example, the product marketed under the brand name Bronzing SF Peptide powder (INCI name: Dextran and Octapeptide-5) by Infinitec Activos, the product marketed under the brand name Melitane (INCI name: Glycerin and Aqua and Dextran and Acetyl hexapeptide-1) containing acetyl hexapeptide-1 known for its alpha-MSH agonist action, the product marketed under the brand name Melatimes Solutions™ (INCI name: Butylene glycol,Palmitoyl Tripeptide-40) by LIPOTEC, sugars and sugar derivatives, for example the product marketed under the brand name Tanositol™ (INCI name: inositol) by Provital, the product marketed under the brand name Thalitan™ (or Phycosaccharide™ AG) by CODIF International (INCI name: Aqua and Hydrolyzed algin (Laminaria Digitata) and magnesium sulfate and manganese sulfate) containing a marine oligosaccharide (guluronic acid and mannuronic acid chelated with magnesium and manganese ions), the product marketed under the brand name Melactiva™ (INCI name: Maltodextrin, Mucuna Pruriens Seed extract) by Alban Muller,Flavonoid-rich compounds, for example, the product marketed under the brand name "Biotanning" (INCI name: Hydrolyzed citrus Aurantium dulcis fruit extract) by the company Silab, known to be rich in lemon flavonoids (of the hesperidin type); agents intended for the treatment of hair and / or body hair, for example, agents that protect the melanocytes of the hair follicle, intended, to protect said melanocytes against cytotoxic agents responsible for senescence and / or apoptosis of said melanocytes, such as DOPAchrome tautomerase activity mimetics selected from those described in the European patent application published under number EP1515688 A2, synthetic SOD mimetic molecules for example manganese complexes, antioxidant compounds for example cyclodextrin derivatives, siliceous compounds derived from ascorbic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylate of lysine or arginine, combinations of cinnamic acid mono- and diester and vitamin C, and more generally those cited in the European patent application published under number EP 1 515 688 A2.

[0107] Examples of probiotics that can be combined with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition of the present invention as defined above include various strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Bacillus cereus var. toyoi, Bacillus subtilis alone or in combination with Bacillus licheniformis, and Enterococcus faecium strains. These strains of microorganisms are generally associated with a solid carrier, such as calcium carbonate, dextrose, or sorbitol.

[0108] Examples of antioxidant agents that can be associated with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, include EDTA and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylhydroxyanisole), BHT (butylhydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as DISSOLVINE™ GL 47S marketed by Akzo Nobel under the INCI name: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate.

[0109] Examples of sunscreens that can be associated with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, include all those listed in the amended cosmetics directive 76 / 768 / EEC Annex VII.

[0110] Among the organic sunscreens that can be associated with the plant extract in the cosmetic composition, the subject of the present invention as defined above, we can mention the family of benzoic acid derivatives such as para-aminobenzoic acids (PABA), in particular monoglycerol esters of PABA, ethyl esters of N,N25 propoxy PABA, ethyl esters of N,N-diethoxy PABA, ethyl esters of N,Ndimethyl PABA, methyl esters of N,N-dimethyl PABA, butyl esters of N,Ndimethyl PABA; the family of anthranilic acid derivatives such as homomenthyl-N-acetyl anthranilate; the family of salicylic acid derivatives such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylate of phenyl, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanolphenyl salicylate; the family of cinnamic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl-2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxypropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisoamyl cinnamate, p-methoxyoctyl cinnamate (p-methoxy 2-ethylhexyl cinnamate), p-methoxy 2-ethoxyethyl cinnamate, p-methoxycyclohexyl cinnamate, ethyl-α-cyano-[3-phenyl] cinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl-α-cyano-[3-phenyl] cinnamate, glyceryl mono-2-ethylhexanoyl diparamethoxy cinnamate;the family of benzophenone derivatives such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl-4'-phenylbenzophenone-2-5 carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-4-n-octyloxybenzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone; 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-d,l-camphor, 3 (benzylidene)-d,lcamphor, benzalkonium methosulfate camphor; urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate; the family of sulfonic acid derivatives such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5 sulfonic acid and its salts; the family of triazine derivatives such as hydroxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyloxyhydroxyphenyl-4-methoxyphenyltriazine, 2,4,6-trianillino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-l'-oxy)-l,3,5-triazine, 4,4-((6-(((1,1-dimethylethyl);

[0111] amino)carbonyl)phenyl)amino)-l,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl diimino) bis-(2-ethylhexyl) ester of benzoic acid, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl)benzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl)benzotriazole; dibenzazine; dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4"-tbutylbenzoylmethane; 5-(3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene)-3-pentan-2-one; the family of diphenyl acrylate derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, ethyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate; the family of polysiloxanes such as benzylidene siloxane malonate.

[0112] Among the inorganic sunscreens, also called "mineral sunscreens," that can be combined with the plant extract in the composition of the present invention as defined above, examples include titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow, red, or black iron oxides, and chromium oxides. These mineral sunscreens may or may not be micronized, may or may not have undergone surface treatments, and may optionally be presented as aqueous or oily predispersions.

[0113] The following examples illustrate the invention, without however limiting it.

[0114] I. Evaluation method:

[0115] 1.1 Analytical method for evaluating the presence of polar lipids and the chlorophyll:

[0116] An HPLC-DAD-CAD method (DAD = UV diode array detector, CAD = Corona detector) has been developed to analyze in a single step the presence of polar lipids and chlorophyll in the extracts being evaluated. This analytical method uses a Cl8 reversed-phase column and a decreasing polarity gradient obtained as follows:

[0117] Route A: isopropanol + 0.1% formic acid

[0118] Route B: acetonitrile + 0.1% formic acid

[0119] Route C: H2O MQ + 0.1% formic acid

[0120] Route D: Acetoniril / H2O MQ 80 / 20 Time Flow %A %B %C %D - 0.8 0 2 98 0 5 0.8 0 2 98 0 20 0.8 0 100 0 0 25 0.8 0 100 0 0 35 0.8 80 20 0 0 40 0.8 80 20 0 0 45 0.8 0 100 0 0 50 0.8 0 2 98 0 55 0.8 0 2 98 0

[0121] Evaluation criteria for extracts according to the method below: - Presence of polar lipids:

[0122] CAD detection, retention time between 20 and 38 min

[0123] The presence of polar lipids is considered to be of interest from an intensity of 20 pA - Presence of chlorophyll:

[0124] DAD detection (650 nm), retention time between 30 and 42 min; Identification via characteristic UV spectrum (Xmax = 430 and 660 nm)

[0125] The absence of chlorophyll is considered when the intensity of the chlorophyll chromatographic peak is less than or equal to a value of 0.02 AU (threshold beyond which traces of chlorophyll are considered to have no impact on the color of the product)

[0126] 1.2 Colorimetric analysis:

[0127] The extracts obtained are analyzed by colorimetry following the parameter “a*” according to the CIELAB color space. The parameter “a*” corresponds to the value on the axis green (negative value) -> red (positive value).

[0128] Thus the presence of green colour notes linked to chlorophyll visible to the naked eye is manifested by a parameter “a*” greater than or equal to -5.

[0129] IL Examples:

[0130] Example 1: Extraction according to the process of the invention of the alga Himanthalia elongata (family: Himanthaliaceae; order: Fucales; class: Phaeophyceae)

[0131] 50 kg of dried and crushed Himanthalia elongata seaweed is brought into contact with 600 kg of 96% ethanol are dissolved in water. The mixture is heated to 40°C and stirred for 2 hours. Once the biomass has been separated from the extract, the extract is concentrated to obtain a dry extract of approximately 20%, and then 150 kg of 1,3-propanediol is added. The mixture is homogenized, and the residual ethanol is evaporated under vacuum. After complete desolvation and filtration through a 0.2 µm cellulose filter, a liquid extract free of chlorophyll and triglycerides is obtained.

[0132] The comparison of the HPLC profiles of an ethanolic extract of Himanthalia elongata before the addition of 1,3-propanediol and of an extract of TL elongata from the invention in UV 650 nm detection and CAD is presented in [Fig.1] (left: ethanolic extract before the addition of 1,3-propanediol, right: extract obtained according to the invention).

[0133] As shown in [Fig.1], the ethanolic extract does indeed contain the chlorophyll that was extracted by the ethanol and the extract according to the invention no longer shows chlorophyll on the chromatogram at 650 nm.

[0134] Results of the colorimetric analysis of the extract diluted in 0.4% ethanol equivalent Dry Extract:

[0135] Ethanol extract before the addition of 1,3-propanediol: a*= -16.3

[0136] Extract obtained according to the invention: a* = -4.7

[0137] Example 2: extraction according to the variant of the process of the invention of the alga Alaria esculenta (family: Alariaceae; order: Laminariales; class: Phaeophyceae)

[0138] 700 g & Alaria esculenta dried are extracted in supercritical CO2 at 400 bar and 40°C. The CO2 flow rate used was 10 kg / h for 180 min. After filtration we obtained an extract rich in polar lipids but also in chlorophyll as can be seen in the HPLC profile presented in [Fig.2].

[0139] Under the same conditions but with the addition of 1,3-propanediol as a co-solvent at a flow rate of 4 mL / min, the HPLC profile shown in [Fig.3] shows the presence of polar lipids and the absence of chlorophyll.

[0140] Results of the colorimetric analysis of supercritical CO2 extracts of Alaria esculenta diluted in ethanol at 0.2% equivalent dry extract:

[0141] Supercritical CO2 extract of Alaria esculenta without the addition of co-solvent 1,3-propanediol: a* = -12.0

[0142] Supercritical CO2 extract with 1,3-propanediol co-solvent of Alaria esculenta according to the invention: a* = -0.1

[0143] Example 3: Use of different polyols according to the invention on Himanthalia elongata

[0144] The alga Himanthalia elongata was extracted according to the same protocol as Example 1 but different polyols were used as solvent S2: Propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and glycerin.

[0145] The HPLC profiles of the extracts according to the invention from the seaweed Himanthalia elongata are shown in [Fig. 4]. Glycerin is too polar to efficiently extract polar lipids, and pentylene glycol is too nonpolar and partially solubilizes chlorophyll. Propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol) and butylene glycol (1,3-butanediol) effectively solubilized the polar lipids and rendered chlorophyll insoluble, as shown by the intensity of the chlorophyll peak at a value of 0.02 AU or less. Thus, not every polyol can be used for the invention, and the suitability of the polyol for the processes according to the invention is not specified by the prior art.

[0146] Example 4: Extraction of meroditerpenes according to the invention from the alga Halidrys siliquosa (family: Sargassaceae; order: Fucales; class: Phaeophyceae)

[0147] 100 g of dried and crushed Halidrys siliquosa seaweed is brought into contact with 400 g 96% ethanol is added. The mixture is heated to 40°C and stirred for 2 hours. Once the biomass has been separated from the extract, the extract is concentrated to a dry extract of approximately 20%, and then 300 g of 1,3-propanediol is added. The mixture is homogenized, and the 96% ethanol is removed (desolvation). After complete desolvation and filtration through a 0.2 µm filter, a chlorophyll-free liquid extract is obtained.

[0148] The HPLC profiles of extracts obtained according to the process of the invention from the alga Halidrys siliquosa are shown in [Fig. 5] (left: ethanolic extract before the addition of 1,3-propanediol, right: extract obtained according to the invention). As shown in [Fig. 5], ethanol allows the extraction of meroditerpenes but with chlorophyll. Following the addition of 1,3-propanediol, the chlorophyll is effectively removed from the extract.

[0149] Results of the colorimetric analysis of the extract diluted in ethanol at 0.04% equivalent Dry Extract:

[0150] Ethanol extract before the addition of 1,3-propanediol: a* = -9

[0151] Extract obtained according to the process of the invention: a* = -3

[0152] Example 5: Formulation of the extracts obtained in Example 1

[0153] The ethanolic extract before the addition of 1,3-propanediol and the extract obtained according The invention according to Example 1 is formulated for comparison.

[0154] To make the extracts comparable, the ethanolic extract was diluted in 1,3-propanediol without filtration (with chlorophyll) so that the two extracts had an equivalent dry matter.

[0155] 2% of the extracts are incorporated into a formula chassis below. MP % Water QSP100 Glycerin 3 Sepiplus 400 0.7 Montanov 82 1 Montanov 202 2 TG C8-C10 20 Sepicide HB 1 pH Adjuster QS pH 5.5-6.5

[0156] The color level for the ethanolic extract (with chlorophyll) is higher:

[0157] At Jl, the AE in comparison to the chassis is about 13 for the extract with chlorophyll, compared to about 11 for the extract bleached by the process according to the invention.

[0158] Green particles are visible in the formula containing the ethanolic extract (with chlorophyll) and these particles do not disappear over time.

[0159] [Math.l] AE = Lp-Le) 2 + (ap-ac) 2 + (bp-bc) 2

[0160] (p for product and c for chassis)

[0161] AE is a measure of the visual difference between two colors, in a perpetually uniform color space such as L*a*b*. Colors at equal distances in the L*a*b* space (therefore having the same delta E) should be perceived by the human eye as having the same color difference.

[0162] The invention thus makes it possible to obtain an extract comprising polar lipids free of chlorophyll according to a step-saving approach and limitation of waste generated.

Claims

1. Demands A process for preparing an algal extract from algal biomass selected from the algae Himanthalia elongata, Alaria esculenta, and Halidrys siliquosa, comprising chlorophyll, polar lipids, and optionally triglycerides, said algal extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol and for which the parameter a* according to the CIELAB color space is greater than or equal to -5, said process being characterized in that it comprises the following steps: - A step a) of making said algal biomass available, - A step b) of extraction of said polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides present in said algal biomass made available in step a), by mixing the latter with a first solvent S1 of alcoholic and / or nonpolar type, to obtain a first liquid phase comprising said solvent SI, the residual biomass not dissolved in said solvent SI and said polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides dissolved in said solvent SI, - A step c) of separation by filtration, from said first liquid phase obtained at the end of step b), of said residual biomass not dissolved in said solvent SI, to obtain a second liquid phase comprising said solvent SI, said polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides dissolved in said solvent SI, - A step d) of concentrating said second liquid phase obtained at the end of step c), by evaporating, at least partially, said first solvent SI, to obtain a concentrated second liquid phase comprising said solvent SI, said polar lipids, chlorophyll and optionally triglycerides dissolved in said solvent SI, - A step e) of mixing said second liquid phase obtained at the end of step c) or said second concentrated liquid obtained at the end of step d), with 1,3-propanediol, to obtain a third liquid phase comprising a mixture of said solvents SI and 1,3-propanediol, said polar lipids, chlorophyll and optionally triglycerides, - A step f) of removing the first solvent S1 from said third liquid phase obtained in step e) by evaporation, to obtain a fourth liquid phase comprising 1,3-propanediol, chlorophyll and optionally triglycerides not dissolved in 1,3-propanediol and said polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and - A step g) of separation by filtration, from said fourth liquid phase obtained in step f), of chlorophyll and optionally triglycerides not dissolved in 1,3-propanediol, to obtain said expected algal extract.

2. A process for preparing an algal extract from algal biomass comprising chlorophyll, polar lipids and optionally triglycerides, said plant extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and for which the parameter a* according to the CIELAB color space is greater than or equal to -5, said process being characterized in that it comprises the following steps: - A step h) of making said algal biomass available, - A step i) of extracting the polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides present in said algal biomass made available in step h), by mixing the latter with a first solvent SI of the alcoholic and / or nonpolar type and 1,3-propanediol, to obtain a fifth liquid phase comprising the solvents SI and 1,3-propanediol, the residual biomass, said polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides, - A step j) of removing by evaporation said first solvent SI present in said fifth liquid phase obtained in step i), to obtain a sixth liquid phase comprising 1,3-propanediol, said residual biomass,chlorophyll and possibly undissolved triglycerides in 1,3-propanediol and said polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and - A step k) of separation by filtration, from said sixth liquid phase obtained in step j), of said residual biomass, of chlorophyll and possibly undissolved triglycerides in 1,3-propanediol, to obtain said expected algal extract.

3. A process according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that said algal biomass made available at step a) or step h) of the process is dry, and optionally ground.

4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said first alcoholic-type solvent SI is an alcohol or an aqueous solution comprising an alcohol, said alcohol being selected from ethanol, isopropanol, methanol or a mixture of two or more of these alcohols.

5. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said first nonpolar solvent S1 is selected from hexane, cyclohexane, methyl tetrahydrofuran, benzene, supercritical carbon dioxide or a mixture of two or more of these solvents.

6. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that said first solvent SI is 96% ethanol in water.

7. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that said first solvent SI is supercritical carbon dioxide.

8. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the polar lipids present in said algal biomass belong to the group consisting of: - free fatty acids and their hydroxylated and unsaturated derivatives of formula R1-(C=O)-OH, with RI representing a linear or branched aliphatic alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 5 to 23 carbon atoms and optionally one or more hydroxy functions, - glycolipids, in particular digalactosidediacylglycerides, digalactosidemnoacylglycerides, monogalactosidediacylglycerides, monogalactosidemonoacylglycerides, sulfoquinovosyldiacylglycerides, and / or sulfoquinovosylmonoacylglycerides, - phospholipids, - sphyngolipids, and - meroditerpenoids.

9. An algal extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol and for which the parameter a* according to the CIELAB color space is greater than or equal to -5, obtained directly by the process according to any one of claims 1 to R

10. 1 a O. Algal extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol and for which the parameter a* according to the CIELAB color space is greater than or equal to -5, obtained by the process according to any one of claims 2 to 8.

11. Algal extract according to any one of claims 9 or 10, wherein said polar lipids belong to the compound consisting of: - free fatty acids and their hydroxylated and unsaturated derivatives of formula R1-(C=O)-OH, with RI representing a linear or branched aliphatic alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 5 to 23 carbon atoms and optionally one or more hydroxy functions, - glycolipids, in particular digalactosidediacylglycerides, digalactosidemnoacylglycerides, monogalactosidediacylglycerides, monogalactosidemonoacylglycerides, sulfoquinovosyldiacylglycerides, and / or sulfoquinovosylmonoacylglycerides, - phospholipids, - sphyngolipids, and - meroditerpenoids.

12. Use of an algal extract according to any one of claims 9 to 11, as a cosmetic active agent, in a cosmetic composition for topical use.

13. A cosmetic composition for topical use comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient and an effective amount of the algal extract according to any one of claims 9 to 11.

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