COMPOSITION COMPRISING A REDUCING AGENT, A SOLID FATTY ETHER AND A POLYSACCHARIDE OF MICROBIAL ORIGIN

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING A REDUCING AGENT, A SOLID FATTY ETHER AND A POLYSACCHARIDE OF MICROBIAL ORIGIN The present invention relates to a composition comprising: - at least 0.5% of one or more reducing agent(s), preferably sulfur-containing; - one or more solid fatty ethers; and - one or more polysaccharides of microbial origin. It also relates to a process for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers using the composition.

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A REDUCING AGENT, A SOLID FATTY ETHER AND A POLYSACCHARIDE OF MICROBIAL ORIGIN

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising one or more reducing agent(s), one or more solid fatty ethers and one or more polysaccharides of microbial origin. The invention also relates to a method for permanently deforming keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the use on said fibers of the composition defined above and optionally of an oxidizing composition.

[0002] Many people are not satisfied with the appearance of their hair, especially people with curly hair most often seek to achieve straight hair and, conversely, those with straight hair wish to have curly hair. The techniques used to achieve permanent hair deformation generally consist of applying a reducing composition containing a reducing agent, generally thiolated.

[0003] Reducing compositions intended for straightening or perming hair generally comprise reducing agents in the form of sulfites, bisulfites, alkylphosphines or, preferably, thiols. These reducing compositions are generally in the form of a thickened or non-thickened lotion, a cream or a gel. The majority of cream vehicles used for the manufacture of reducing compositions are formulated based on crystallizable compounds, such as fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters.

[0004] Generally speaking, following the addition of reducing agents and other compounds, in particular perfumes, it is found that these vehicles may have an unsatisfactory texture. More specifically, a significant drop in viscosity is observed following the addition of these compounds, which generally leads to the creams obtained not having a satisfactory texture. In addition, vehicles of this type may exhibit uncertain stability during storage tests, with problems of loss of viscosity and / or phase separation.

[0005] There is therefore a real need for reducing compositions for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers, free from all the drawbacks described above, that is to say having a satisfactory texture, and which are stable during storage, during the pause and application time, which are easily distributed throughout the hair and which are easily rinsed.

[0006] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern to contribute to meeting global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients to meet these environmental challenges. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin. In addition, in order to preserve natural resources and in particular water, it is of interest to offer compositions that make it possible to reduce the quantity of water required, in particular during the use of the product.

[0007] The applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that it is possible to achieve the desired properties with a composition comprising at least 0.5% of one or more reducing agent(s), preferably sulfur-containing, one or more fatty ether(s), one or more polysaccharides of microbial origin.

[0008] The composition of the present invention is stable and has a homogeneous texture which facilitates the application of the composition to the hair fibers, thus resulting in an effective process of shaping or modifying the shape of the hair. In addition, these compositions make it possible to obtain good straightening / straightening or waving / curling of the hair. The composition and the method of the invention also make it possible to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair, by durably reducing the volume of the hair and the frizzy effect.

[0009] The compositions according to the invention have a smooth, creamy texture, are shiny and very easy to apply. They have an opaque character allowing better localization of the product on the hair. The compositions are also very easy to rinse, which makes it possible to limit water consumption.

[0010] The present invention therefore relates in particular to a composition comprising at least 0.5% of one or more reducing agent(s), preferably sulfur-containing, one or more fatty ether(s), one or more polysaccharides of microbial origin.

[0011] The invention also relates to a method for permanent deformation, in particular for straightening or permanent waving, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, consisting of implementing the following steps: i. a composition as defined above is applied to said fibers, and the fibers are left to stand for a period sufficient for shaping, ii. Optionally, a rinsing step and iii. optionally, an oxidizing composition is applied to said fibers for a sufficient period of time to fix the shape iv. A rinsing step.

[0012] Finally, the invention also relates to the use of the composition defined above for the permanent deformation of hair.

[0013] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is non-coloring, that is to say that it does not give the fibers a visible coloring after removal of said composition. Preferably, it does not comprise a coloring agent.

[0014] According to the present invention, the term "coloring agents" means agents for coloring keratin fibers such as direct dyes or oxidation dye precursors (bases and couplers). If they are present, their content does not exceed 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Indeed, at such a content, only the composition would be tinted, that is to say, no coloring effect on the keratin fibers would be observed.

[0015] It is recalled that the precursors of oxidation dyes, oxidation bases and couplers, are compounds with little or no color which, by a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a colored species. As for direct dyes, these compounds are colored and have an affinity for keratin fibers.

[0016] - by "stable" we mean a composition which does not show any significant evolution fictive change in appearance, odor, pH, and / or rheology after storage, in particular after storage for 1 month at 4°C and / or 2 months at 45°C and / or at room temperature. Changes in appearance include, in particular, phase separation, precipitation, creaming; Reducing agents

[0017] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more reducing agent(s), preferably sulfur-containing. According to one embodiment, the sulfur-containing reducing agents are chosen from reducing agents of formula: H(X')q(R')r in which X' represents S or SO2, q is 1, r is 1 or 2 or 3, and R' is a linear, branched, saturated unsaturated (Ci-C2o)hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom, and optionally comprising substituents chosen from a hydroxy group, a halogenated group, an amine group or a salified or non-salified carboxy group, a ((Ci-C30)alkoxycarbonyl group, an amido group, a ((Ci-C30)alkyl)amino carbonyl group, a (Ci-C3o)acyl)amino group, a mono or dialkylamino group, a mono or di-hydroxylamino group, or one of its salts in combination with a base.

[0018] The sulfur-containing reducing agent(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from thiolated or non-thiolated reducing agents.

[0019] As thiolated reducing agents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of thiolated reducing agents chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptoproprionic acid, 3-mercaptoproprionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thioproprionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetyl cysteine ​​and their salts, preferably chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, their salts and their mixtures.

[0020] As non-thiolated reducing agents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of alkali or alkaline earth metal sulfites.

[0021] Preferably, the sulfur-containing reducing agent(s) used in the composition according to the invention are thiolated reducing agents, in particular thioglycolic acid and thiolactic acid or their salts, in particular of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium, cysteine ​​and their mixtures.

[0022] Preferably, the sulfur-containing reducing agent used in the composition according to the invention is thioglycolic acid and its salts, in particular ammonium thioglycolate, potassium thioglycolate, or cysteine.

[0023] The sulfur-containing reducing agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 50.0% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 1.5 to 20.0% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 2.5 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty ether

[0024] The compositions according to the invention comprise one or more solid fatty ether(s).

[0025] Preferably, the solid fatty ethers are of formula (I) RO-R' in which R and R', identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, R and R' comprising at least 8 carbon atoms. The fatty ether useful in the present invention is a solid fatty ether.

[0026] By “solid fatty ether” is meant a fatty ether which is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 1 atm).

[0027] Preferably, the ether is chosen from the compounds for which the radicals R and R', identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, C8-C40, preferably C10-C30, more preferably C14-C24.

[0028] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the radicals R and R', which may or may not be identical, are radicals derived from oleic (Cl8), caprylic (C8), capric (ClO), lauric (C12), palmitic (C16), myristic (C14), behenic (C22), stearic (Cl8), linoleic (Cl8), linolenic (Cl8), arachidic (C20) alcohols.

[0029] Preferably, R and R' are saturated.

[0030] Preferably, R and R' represent a linear C8-C40, preferably C10-C30, more preferably C14-C24 alkyl radical.

[0031] More particularly R and R' are identical.

[0032] Preferably, R and R' are identical and represent a linear C14-C24 alkyl radical, better still R and R' denote a linear C16-C22 alkyl radical, better still a stearyl radical.

[0033] More preferably, the ethers which can be used according to the invention have a melting point above 50°C. The fatty ethers which can be used according to the invention may be soluble or insoluble in the compositions, but preferably they are insoluble. These compounds can be prepared according to the process described in patent application DE 41 27 230.

[0034] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty ether is distearyl ether or dioctode-cylether, and corresponds to the formula above in which R and R' represent a CH3(CH2)i7- group

[0035] The solid fatty ether(s) according to the invention are preferably present in a total content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 25% by weight, preferentially from 5 to 20% by weight, even better from 7.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0036] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total quantity of reducing agent(s) on the one hand, and the quantity of solid fatty ether(s), on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 0.1, and preferably ranges from 0.2 to 10, more preferably from 0.3 to 5. Polysaccharides of microbial origin

[0037] By polysaccharide of microbial origin, we mean a polysaccharide originating from micro-organism(s), such as for example bacteria, yeasts, fungi, microalgae.]

[0038] The polysaccharides of microbial origin are in particular chosen from: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) of microbial origin according to the invention is(are) chosen from scleroglucan gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof, more preferably scleroglucan gum. The polysaccharide(s) of microbial origin according to the invention are generally present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0040] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) of microbial origin according to the invention chosen from scleroglucan gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof is (are) present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 and 15% by weight, preferentially from 1 and 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0041] More preferably, the scleroglucan gum is present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 and 15% by weight, preferably from 1 and 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0042] The composition of the invention generally comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvent(s).

[0043] Among the suitable organic solvents, mention may be made more particularly of non-aromatic monoalcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, or polyols such as glycerol. Polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols, aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, and mixtures of all these compounds may also be used as solvents.

[0044] The water and organic solvents described above, if present, usually represent from 30 to 95% by weight, more preferably from 40 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 1.5 to 13 and preferably from 7 to 12, better still from 7.5 to 11. It can be adjusted by adding either alkaline agents such as ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, 2-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol, 1,3-propanediamine, guanidine, arginine, an alkali or ammonium carbonate or bicarbonate, an organic carbonate such as guanidine carbonate, or even an alkali hydroxide, or acidifying agents such as mineral or organic acids, in particular hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, boric acid, citric acid and phosphoric acid.

[0046] The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise one or more additional cosmetic agent(s).

[0047] The additional cosmetic agent(s) may be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; anionic surfactants, in particular sulfate, sulfonate or carboxylate surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants or cationic surfactants; thickening agents other than polysaccharides according to the invention; antioxidant agents; penetrating agents; sequestering agents; perfumes; buffers; dispersing agents; film-forming agents; preservatives; stabilizing agents; opacifying agents.

[0048] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from fatty amines, more preferably from fatty amidoamines.

[0049] Fatty amidoamine is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0050] Preferably, the useful fatty amidoamines are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0051] Among the fatty amidoamines useful in the composition of the invention, we can cite the amidoamines of formula (I) following: RCONHR”N(R')2 (I) in which: - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical; - R' ' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0052] The fatty amidoamines of formula (I) are, for example, chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine marketed by the company INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, laura-midopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenami-dopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesami-dopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0053] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dime- thylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0054] The fatty amidoamine(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 1 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] According to one embodiment, the composition may contain fatty alcohols.

[0056] Fatty alcohol may be liquid or non-liquid. Liquid fatty alcohol means a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1,013.105Pa). Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated. The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic cycle. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol. Octyldodecanol is particularly preferred. The liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds.When several double bonds are present, they are preferably 2 or 3 in number and they may or may not be conjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic cycle. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol, and undecylenic alcohol. The non-liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and their mixtures (cetylstearyl alcohol for example).

[0057] Preferably, the fatty alcohol is non-liquid and preferably solid. Preferably, the fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, better still from 1 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.

[0059] Preferably, the composition is in the form of a cream.

[0060] The composition according to the invention may advantageously have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 2 to 20 Pa.s, preferably ranging from 2 to 15 Pa.s and even more preferably ranging from 2.5 to 10 Pa.s.

[0061] The viscosity of the composition can be determined at 25°C using a rotary viscometer of the Rhéomat 180 type (Jean LAMY SA) equipped with a geometer of the anchor / bucket type Mobile 3 (MS-r 3) or Mobile 4 (MS-r4) with a rotation speed of 200 rpm and use of the calibration curves provided by the viscometer supplier.

[0062] The present invention also relates to a method for permanent deformation, in particular for straightening or permanent waving, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, consisting of implementing the following steps: i. a composition according to the invention is applied to said fibers, and the fibers are left to stand for a period sufficient for shaping, ii. possibly a rinse and iii. optionally, an oxidizing composition is applied to said fibers for a time sufficient to fix the shape iv. a rinsing step.

[0063] The pause time after application of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 5 to 60 minutes, particularly from 5 to 45 minutes, preferably from 10 to 45 minutes.

[0064] The oxidizing composition used during step (ii) of the permanent deformation process conventionally comprises one or more oxidizing agent(s), generally hydrogen peroxide, an alkaline bromate, a persalt or a polythionate, and even more preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0065] The pH of the oxidizing composition generally varies from 2 to 10.

[0066] The dwell time of the oxidizing composition generally varies from 2 to 30 minutes, preferably from 5 to 15 minutes.

[0067] According to a particular embodiment, the oxidizing composition also contains a solid fatty ether as described previously. In particular, the composition according to the invention is applied to reduce the disulfide bonds of keratin, the keratin fibers being placed under mechanical tension before, during or after said application.

[0068] When it is desired to achieve a permanent wave, mechanical means such as curlers are preferably used in order to put the keratin fibres under tension, the composition according to the invention being applied before, during or after the means for shaping the hair, preferably before.

[0069] The composition according to the present invention can be applied to wet hair previously wound on rollers having a diameter of 2 to 30 mm. The composition according to the invention can also be applied as the hair is wound. Generally, the composition according to the invention is then left to act for a period of 5 to 60 minutes.

[0070] It is also possible, after application of the composition according to the invention, to subject the hair to a heat treatment by heating to a temperature of between 30 and 250°C for all or part of the pause time. In practice, this operation can be carried out using a hairdressing hood, a hair dryer, a round iron or a flat iron, an infrared ray dispenser and other heating devices.

[0071] In particular, it is possible to use, as both a means of heating and shaping the hair, a heating iron at a temperature of between 60 and 230°C and, preferably between 120 and 230°C, the use of the heating iron being carried out after the intermediate rinsing step following the application of the composition according to the invention.

[0072] The curler itself may be heated.

[0073] The oxidizing composition is then applied to the rolled or unrolled hair, allowing the disulfide bonds of the keratin to be reformed, generally for a leave-on time of 2 to 15 minutes.

[0074] In the context of a straightening or smoothing process, the composition according to the invention is applied to the hair, then the hair is subjected to mechanical deformation allowing it to be fixed in its new shape, by a hair straightening operation with a wide-toothed comb, with the back of a comb, by hand or with a brush. A exposure time of 5 to 60 minutes is generally carried out.

[0075] This application can also be followed by a heating treatment, in particular using an iron.

[0076] Hair straightening can also be carried out, in whole or in part, using an iron heating between 100 and 230°C, and preferably between 120 and 220°C.

[0077] Then the oxidizing composition as defined above is optionally applied, which is generally left to act for approximately 2 to 15 minutes, then the hair is optionally rinsed thoroughly, generally with water.

[0078] After implementing the permanent deformation process, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed.

[0079] Preferably, the keratin fibers impregnated with the oxidizing composition are thoroughly rinsed with water. It is possible to optionally separate, before or after, the keratin fibers from the means necessary for tensioning them.

[0080] The keratin fibers can then be washed with shampoo, rinsed, dry or let them dry.

[0081] Preferably, the permanent deformation process is a process for permanently waving keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0082] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0083] EXAMPLES

[0084] Example 1: Compositions for the permanent deformation of hair

[0085] Compositions A and B were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below in grams of active material:

[0086] [Tables 1] A (invention) B (comparative) Ammonium thioglycolate in aqueous solution with 71% active ingredient 11 11 Scleroglucan gum (ACTIGUM CS 11 deCARGILL) 1,3 - Hydroxyethyl cellulose - 1,3 Distearyl ether 10 10 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Soda in aqueous solution qs pH 8 8 Appearance of the composition at T0 Thick and smooth cream gel Thick and smooth cream gel Appearance of the composition after 2 months at 45°C Thick and smooth cream gel Cream gel more fluid than the composition at T0

[0087] Before application, the appearance is observed at T0 then after 2 months at 45°C.

[0088] Composition A of the invention has a creamy texture at T0 and T2 months, 45°C easy to apply and localize, allowing for even distribution throughout the hair. In addition, it is very easy to rinse off.

[0089] The composition of the invention remains stable depending on the temperature, which guarantees reproducibility of the results.

[0090] Composition A has sufficient viscosity to prevent the product from running and to guarantee consistent performance from root to tip.

[0091] On the contrary, comparative composition B becomes fluid during storage under the effect of heat, resulting in less good distribution of the product and drips on the hair, thus leading to irregular results between the roots and the tips. This is even more present when applied under heat, especially near the scalp, or when applied under a helmet or with heated curlers

[0092] Composition A (invention) was applied to locks of hair with a 20-minute leave-on time, rinsed, and followed by the application of a fixing composition “Dulcia Vital force DV2” with 2.4% hydrogen peroxide (pH3) with a leave-on time of 10 minutes, rinsing with tap water (flow rate 5L / min at 38°C) and drying.

[0093] Example 2

[0094] The following compositions were prepared from the ingredients in the proportions indicated in grams per 100 g of composition according to the following tables:

[0095] [Tables2] Bl (invention) B2 (invention) B3 (invention) Ammonium thioglycolate 11.4 11.4- - Diammonium dithioglycolate 5 5 - Sodium thioglycolate - 11.4 11.4 Scleroglucan gum 1.3 1.3 1.3 Distearyl ether 10 10 10 Benzyl alcohol - - 4.5 Denatured absolute ethyl alcohol - - 8 Pentanediol - - 1.5 Stearamidopropyl diethylamine - - 2 Ethanol amine 0.1 0.1 0.1 Ammonium bicarbonate 5 5 5 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 PH Qsp pH=8± 0.2 Qsp pH=8± 0.2 Qsp pH=8± 0.2

[0096] Compositions B1, B2 and B3 of the invention have a very smooth, very shiny cream texture that is easy to apply and locate, allowing for even distribution throughout the hair. In addition, they are very easy to rinse off while leaving the strands with a non-greasy feel described for composition A.

[0097] Compositions B1, B2 and B3 (invention) were applied to locks of hair sensitized with a 20 minute application time rinsed in 30 seconds, then a fixing composition "Dulcia Vital force DV2" with 2.4% hydrogen peroxide (pH3) was applied with a 10 minute application time, rinsing with tap water (flow rate 5L / min at 38°C) and drying.

[0098] On all the treated locks, the new compositions lead to nervous curls, that is to say that when the curl is pulled along its length then released, it returns to its initial shape.

[0099] With composition (B3), the strands of hair have a softer feel than that obtained with compositions B1 or B2. Example 3: Smoothing

[0100] The following compositions were prepared from the ingredients in the proportions indicated in grams per 100 g of composition according to the following tables:

[0101] [Tables3] Cl (invention) C2 (invention) Cysteine ​​4 4 ​​Scleroglucan gum 1,3 - Xanthan gum - 1.3 Distearyl ether 10 10 Benzyl alcohol - 4.8 Absolute ethyl alcohol denatured - 8 PENTANEDIOL - 1.5 Stearamidopropyl diethylamine - 2 Ethanolamine 2.3 2.3 AMINOMETHYL PROPANOL 1 1 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 PH Qsp pH=9.3± 0.2 Qsp pH=9.3± 0.2

[0102] Composition Cl and C2 (invention) have smooth textures, they are shiny, easy to apply to the hair and very easy to rinse (in 30 seconds) with a non-greasy feel.

[0103] They were applied to strands of curly hair with a pause time of Leave on for 20 minutes, rinse, followed by the application of a fixing composition with 2.4% hydrogen peroxide pH=3 with a break time of 10 minutes, rinsing with tap water (flow rate 5L / min at 38°C) and finally drying.

[0104] The hair treated with the compositions of the invention has a straightened appearance, the hair is smooth. The hair treated with composition C2 has a softer feel than that obtained with composition CL.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers comprising at least 0.5% of one or more reducing agent(s); one or more solid fatty ethers and one or more polysaccharides of microbial origin.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the reducing agent(s) is / are sulfur-containing, preferably chosen from thiolated or non-thiolated reducing agents, preferably from thiolated reducing agents.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the sulfur-containing reducing agent(s) are chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptoproprionic acid, 3-mercaptoproprionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, di-thiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopro-prionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetyl cysteine and their salts, preferably chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, their salts and their mixtures.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sulfur-containing reducer(s) are present in proportions ranging from 0.5 to 50.0% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 20.0% by weight and more preferably from 2.5 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid fatty ether(s) are of formula (I) RO-R' in which R and R', identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, R and R' comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid fatty ether(s) are of formula (I) RO-R' in which R and R', identical or not, are radicals derived from oleic (C18), lauric (C12), palmitic (C16), myristic (C14), behenic (C22), stearic (C18), linoleic (C18), linolenic (Cl8), arachidic (C20) alcohols.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the solid fatty ether(s) is / are of formula RO-R' in which R and R', identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, C8-C40, preferably C10-C30, more preferably C14-C24; preferably R and R', identical or different, represent a linear alkyl radical C14-C24, preferably R and R' are identical and represent a linear alkyl radical C14-C24, better still C16-C22, better still R and R' denote a saturated radical, better still deriving from stearic alcohol (Cl8).

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of solid fatty ether(s) varies from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 25% by weight, preferentially from 5 to 20% by weight, even better from 7.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide(s) of microbial origin are chosen from: - xanthan gum; - gellan gum; - scleroglucan gum; and mixtures thereof, preferably from xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof, more preferably scleroglucan gum.

10. . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide(s) according to the invention are present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 and 15% by weight, preferentially from 1 and 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

11. . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total quantity of reducing agent(s) on the one hand, and the quantity of solid fatty dether(s), on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 0.1, and preferably ranges from 0.2 to 10, more preferably from 0.3 to 5.

12. . A method of permanent deformation, in particular of smoothing or permanent waving, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, consisting of implementing the following steps: i. a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 11 is applied to said fibers, leave to dress for a sufficient time to shape, ii. optionally rinse, and iii. optionally, an oxidizing composition is applied to said fibers for a sufficient time to fix the shape.

13. Use of the composition according to one of claims 1 to 11 for the permanent deformation of hair.