COMPOSITION COMPRISING A HYDROPHOBIZED CATIONIC POLYMER AND A WATER-INSOLUBLE PARTICLE
A composition of cationic polymer, monovalent acid, fatty acid, and water-insoluble particle forms a stable, water-resistant film for cosmetics, addressing environmental concerns and providing effective cosmetic benefits.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023007869
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-06-20
- Filing Date
- 2023-07-21
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-11
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-07-21
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions often rely on petrochemical materials, contributing to environmental harm and lack sustainable, renewable ingredients, and there is a need for compositions that provide good cosmetic effects while being environmentally friendly.
A composition comprising a cationic polymer, a monovalent non-polymeric acid or its salt, a fatty acid, and a negatively charged water-insoluble particle, which forms a complex to create a gel particle for cosmetic applications, offering good texture, stability, and film-forming properties.
The composition provides a soft feel, stable, and water-resistant film that maintains cosmetic effects under humid conditions, reducing environmental impact by using renewable and biodegradable materials.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A HYDROPHOBIZED CATIONIC POLYMER AND A WATER-INSOLUBLE PARTICLE Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition including at least one hydrophobized cationic polymer and at least one water-insoluble particle, as well as to a cosmetic process using the composition. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges.
[0003] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.
[0004] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0005] A polyionic complex, which is formed with an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer, is already known.
[0006] For example, WO 2021 / 125069 discloses a composition that is useful for cosmetic treatments and comprises at least one polyionic complex particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values. WO 2021 / 125069 also discloses that the composition disclosed therein may include oil and may be in the form of an emulsion. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0007] A first objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which can comprise at least one particle based on at least one cationic polymer, at least one fatty acid and at least one water-insoluble particle, and which is useful for cosmetic applications.
[0008] Furthermore, a second objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which may include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.
[0009] The above objectives of the present invention can be achieved by a com position, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising
[0010] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer;
[0011] (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;
[0012] (b-1) at least one fatty acid; and
[0013] (c) at least one water-insoluble particle,
[0014] in which
[0015] the (c) water-insoluble particle is negatively charged.
[0016] The (a-1) cationic polymer may have a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.
[0017] The (a-1) cationic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines and chitosans, cationic (co)polyamino acids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers and salts thereof.
[0018] The amount of the (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0019] The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.
[0020] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0021] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (a-3) water.
[0022] The amount of (a-3) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 40% to 99% by weight, preferably from 45% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0023] The (b-1) fatty acid may be chosen from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C4-C22, preferably C6-C20, and more preferably C8-C18.
[0024] The amount of the (b-1) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0025] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (b-2) at least an alcohol, preferably chosen from the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, and their mixture, and more preferably chosen from the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol, and their mixture.
[0026] The amount of the (b-2) alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0027] The (c) water-insoluble particle may be selected from metal oxides, preferably titanium oxides, zinc oxides and iron oxides, and more preferably titanium oxides, which have been surface-treated with at least one acid or salt thereof, preferably at least one polyvalent acid or salt thereof, and more preferably phytic acid or salt thereof.
[0028] The amount of the (c) water-insoluble particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0029] The (a-1) cationic polymer, the (b-1) fatty acid and the (c) water-insoluble particle can form at least one complex. Brief description of the drawings
[0030] [Fig-1] [Fig.l] shows an optical microscope image of the composition according to Example 1.
[0031] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] shows an optical microscope image of the composition according to Comparative Example 3. Best mode for carrying out the invention
[0032] After extensive research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition which comprises at least one particle based on at least one cationic polymer and at least one fatty acid, is useful for cosmetic applications, and may include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.
[0033] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0034] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer;
[0035] (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;
[0036] (b-1) at least one fatty acid; and
[0037] (c) at least one water-insoluble particle,
[0038] in which
[0039] the (c) water-insoluble particle is negatively charged.
[0040] The composition according to the present invention can form at least one particle comprising, at least, the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid. The (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid may form at least one complex. This particle may be a gel particle, the size of which is typically in the micron range such as 0.3 to 10 microns. The particle is not in the form of a line or a fiber, but may be in the form of a globe or be spherical. Thus, the aspect ratio of the particle may be less than 5, preferably less than 3, and more preferably less than 2. The “size” of the particle may be the longest diameter of the particle.
[0041] The (a-1) cationic polymer, the (b-1) fatty acid and the (c) water-insoluble particle may also form at least one complex.
[0042] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a dispersion.
[0043] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a gel. In addition, the composition according to the present invention may exhibit dilatancy effects.
[0044] The composition according to the present invention can provide a good feel to the touch (good texture). For example, the composition according to the present invention can provide a soft feel when applying the composition to a substrate such as a keratinous substance (e.g., skin).
[0045] The composition according to the present invention can form a film. When the composition according to the present invention is applied to a substrate such as a keratinous substance (e.g., skin) and dried, the particles in the composition according to the present invention can reduce in size and form a continuous film.
[0046] The composition according to the present invention can be stable so that it does not cause clumping. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long period.
[0047] The composition according to the present invention can have good wettability. Therefore, when the composition according to the present invention is applied to a substrate such as a keratinous substance (e.g., skin), the composition according to the present invention can well cover the surface of the substrate due to the high affinity with the substrate.
[0048] The composition according to the present invention can also have good film-forming ability. Therefore, when the composition according to the present invention is applied to a substrate such as a keratinous substance (e.g., skin) and dried, the composition according to the present invention can form a uniform film without cracking.
[0049] The composition according to the present invention can form a water-insoluble film. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide a waterproof cosmetic film which is stable even under humid conditions due to perspiration or rain. Therefore, the cosmetic effects of the cosmetic film can be maintained for a long period.
[0050] The composition according to the present invention can provide a good feel to the touch (good texture). For example, the composition according to the present invention can provide a soft feel when applying the composition to a substrate such as a keratinous substance (e.g., skin).
[0051] The composition according to the present invention can provide a natural appearance without an unnatural white appearance. When the composition according to the present invention is applied to a substrate such as a keratinous substance (e.g., skin) and dried, the composition according to the present invention can form a transparent film that does not adversely affect the appearance of the substrate.
[0052] The composition according to the present invention can form a resilient film. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide a cosmetic film with a good texture such as elasticity.
[0053] Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention is useful for cosmetic applications.
[0054] If the (a-1) at least one cationic polymer is obtained from natural resources, the (a-1) cationic polymer may be an environmentally friendly ingredient. For example, the (a-1) cationic polymer may be selected from chitosans which are environmentally friendly. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention may include an environmentally friendly ingredient.
[0055] In addition, ingredients (a-2) and (b-1) may be derived from renewable materials such as plants and / or biodegradable materials. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be environmentally friendly.
[0056] The composition may comprise at least one oil that is different from the (b-1) fatty acid. However, the amount of the oil(s) may be limited such that the amount of the oil(s) is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus, the composition according to the present invention in this embodiment may reduce the stickiness derived from the oil(s).
[0057] Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail. [Composition]
[0058] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0059] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer;
[0060] (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;
[0061] (b-1) at least one fatty acid; and
[0062] (c) at least one water-insoluble particle,
[0063] in which
[0064] the (c) water-insoluble particle is negatively charged.
[0065] In the composition according to the present invention, the (a-1) cationic polymer, the (b-1) fatty acid and the (c) water-insoluble particle can form at least one complex.
[0066] A positively chargeable and / or positively charged moiety such as an amino (-NH2) or ammonium (-NH3+) group of the (a-1) cationic polymer can interact ionically with the carboxylic acid (-COOH) or carboxylate (-COO) group of the (b-1) fatty acid to form a complex. The complex includes at least one hydrophobic moiety derived from the fatty moiety of the (b-1) fatty acid. Therefore, the (a-1) cationic polymer can be hydrophobized by the (b-1) fatty acid through the formation of the complex.
[0067] The following diagram shows an example of hydrohobization of chitosan as a (a-1) cationic polymer by the (b-1) fatty acid which is represented by R-COOH in which R denotes a fatty moiety of the (b-1) fatty acid, i.e. an example of formation of a complex of chitosan as a (a-1) cationic polymer and (b-1) fatty acid.
[0069] The complexes formed by the (a-1) cationic polymers and the (b-1) fatty acids can aggregate to form at least one particle, due to the hydrophobic interaction between the hydrophobic moieties of the complexes.
[0070] The following diagram shows an example of particles formed by the aggregation of complexes formed by (a-1) cationic polymers (represented by lines) and (b-1) fatty acids (represented by small dots).
[0071] Thus, the composition according to the present invention forms at least one particle comprising, at least, the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid. In other words, at least, the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention can form at least one particle. The above particle is very small and, therefore, is not visually recognizable.
[0072] The monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid or a salt thereof may interact with the above particle. Thus, the above particle may also comprise the monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid or a salt thereof.
[0073] The above particle has a positive charge derived from the (a-1) cationic polymer.
[0074] Thus, the above particle can interact ionically with the (c) particles in water-soluble particles that have been negatively charged, for example, due to the surface treatment of water-insoluble particles.
[0075] The following diagram shows an example of the interaction of the above particle with the negatively charged (c) water-insoluble particles (represented by large dots). The positive charge of the particle is represented by "+", while the negative charge of the (c) water-insoluble particle is represented by "-".
[0076]
[0077] The above ionic interaction can form an additional complex in the form of particles in which each particle comprises the (a-1) cationic polymer, the (b-1) fatty acid and the (c) negatively charged water-insoluble particle. These particles do not aggregate.
[0078] If the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (c) negatively charged water-insoluble particle are directly combined, a strong ionic interaction between them causes aggregation which results in agglutination. However, hydrophobization of the (a-1) cationic polymer with the (b-1) fatty acid can prevent aggregation. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention does not cause agglutination but can be a fluid.
[0079] (Cationic polymer)
[0080] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-1) at least one cationic polymer. A single type of cationic polymer may be used, or two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination.
[0081] A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the (a-1) cationic polymer may be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.
[0082] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (a-1) cationic polymer is 1000 or more, preferably 2000 or more, more preferably 3000, and even more preferably 4000 or more.
[0083] It may be particularly preferable that the (a-1) cationic polymer has a molecular weight greater than 20,000.
[0084] Unless otherwise indicated in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means weight average molecular weight.
[0085] The (a-1) cationic polymer may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group and a pyridyl group. The term "amino group" (primary) herein refers to a -NH2 group.
[0086] The (a-1) cationic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is intended to refer to both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers than those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.
[0087] The (a-1) cationic polymer may be chosen from natural and synthetic cationic polymers, and preferably from natural cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers are as follows. 1. Homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters and amides and comprising at least one unit chosen from the units of the following formulae:
[0088] in which:
[0089] R1 and R2, which may be the same or different, are selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example, methyl and ethyl groups;
[0090] R3, which may be the same or different, is chosen from hydrogen and CH3;
[0091] the symbols A, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example from 2 to 3 carbon atoms and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0092] R4, R5 and R6, which may be the same or different, are chosen from groups alkyl comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and benzyl groups, and in at least one embodiment, alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and
[0093] X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methsulfate anions and halides, for example chloride and bromide.
[0094] The copolymers of family (1) may also comprise at least one unit derived from comonomers which may be chosen from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by lower alkyl groups (C1-C4), groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
[0095] Examples of copolymers of family (1) include, but are not limited to:
[0096] copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide,
[0097] the copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in European patent application No. 0 080 976,
[0098] the copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, the quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or methacrylate of dialkylaminoalkyl, described, for example, in French patents No. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,
[0099] dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylca-prolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers,
[0100] vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, and
[0101] crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, for example, methylenebisacrylamide. 1. Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose ether derivatives comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups described, for example, in French patent No. 1,492,597, such as the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.
[0102] It is preferable that the cationic cellulose polymer has at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a trialkylquaternaryammonium group, and more preferably a trimethylquaternaryammonium group.
[0103] The quaternary ammonium group may be present in a group containing a quaternary ammonium group which may be represented by the following chemical formula (I): OH Rg
[0104] in which
[0105] each of R1 and R2 denotes a C1-C3 alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably a methyl group,
[0106] R3 denotes a C 24 alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably a methyl group,
[0107] X denotes an anion, preferably a halide, and more preferably a chloride,
[0108] n denotes an integer from 0 to 30, preferably from 0 to 10 and more preferably- initially of 0, and
[0109] R4 denotes a C1.4 alkylene group, preferably an ethylene or propylene group.
[0110] The leftmost ether bond (-O-) in chemical formula (I) above can attach to the sugar ring of the polysaccharide.
[0111] It is preferable that the group containing the quaternary ammonium group is -O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-N+(CH3)3. 1. Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with a salt chosen from methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium and dimethyldiallyammonium salts.
[0112] Commercial products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, the products marketed under the names “Celquat® L 200” and “Celquat® H 100” by the company National Starch. 1. Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides described in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, cationic hyaluronic acid, and dextran hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride. Guar gums modified with a salt, e.g., chloride, of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride) may also be used.
[0113] These products are sold, for example, under the trade names JAGUAR® C13 S, JAGUAR® C15, JAGUAR® C17 and JAGUAR® C162 by the company MEYHALL. 1. Polymers comprising piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups comprising straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with at least one entity chosen from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, aromatic rings and heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,162,025 and 2,280,361. 2. Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared, for example, by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides being optionally crosslinked with an entity chosen from epihalohydrins; diepoxides; dianhydrides; unsaturated dianhydrides; bisunsaturated derivatives; bishalogenohydrins; bisazetidiniums; bishalogenocyadiamines; bisalkyl halides; oligomers resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with an entity chosen from bishalogenohydrins; bisazetidiniums, bishalogenocydiamines, bisalkyl halides; epihalogenohydrins; diepoxides and bisunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides being optionally alkylated or, if they comprise at least one tertiary amine function, they can be quaternized. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,252,840 and 2,368,508. 3. Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents, for example, adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl and propyl groups, and the alkylene group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as an ethylene group. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent No. 1,583,363. In at least one embodiment, these derivatives may be chosen from adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine polymers. 4. Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid may range from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; the resulting polyamino amide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio between epichlorohydrin and the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. These polymers are described, for example, in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347. 5. Alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, such as homopolymers and copolymers comprising, as the main constituent of the chain, at least one unit from among the units of formulae (Ia) and (Ib):
[0114] in which:
[0115] k and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1;
[0116] Rn is selected from hydrogen and methyl groups;
[0117] Rio and Rn, which may be the same or different, are selected from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups in which the alkyl group comprises, for example, from 1 to 5 carbon atoms and lower (Ci-C4)alkylamido groups, or R10 and Rn may form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl and morpholinyl; and
[0118] Y' is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate and phosphate. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent No. 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406.
[0119] In one embodiment, R10 and Rn, which may be the same or different, are selected from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0120] Examples of such polymers include, but are not limited to, (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride such as the homopolymer of dimethyldiethylammonium chloride sold under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by CALGON (and its low weight average molecular weight counterparts) and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT® 550".
[0121] Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (II): R13 ® .......N"...A:..............Bs......... |
[0122] in which:
[0123] Rn, Ru, Rb and Ri6, which may be the same or different, are selected from aliphatic, alicyclic and arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and the lower aliphatic hydroxyalkyl groups, or alternatively Rn, R[4, R b and Ri6, may form, together or separately, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16 which may be the same or different, are selected from linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl groups substituted by at least one group selected from nitrile groups, ester groups, acyl groups, amide groups, -CO-O-Rp-E groups and -CO-NH-R17-E groups, where Rn is an alkylene group and E is a group quaternary ammonium;
[0124] Ai and Bb which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups po- methylene comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may comprise, linked or intercalated in the main chain, at least one entity chosen from aromatic rings, oxygen, sulfur, sulfoxide groups, sulfone groups, disulfide groups, amino groups, alkylamino groups, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium groups, ureido groups, amide groups and ester groups, and
[0125] X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;
[0126] Ai, R13 and Rn can form, together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine cycle;
[0127] if Ai is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, Bi can be chosen from:
[0128] -(CH2)n-CO-E'-OC-(CH2)n-
[0129] in which E' is chosen from:
[0130] a) glycolic residues of formula -OZO-, in which Z is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and groups of the following formulas:
[0131] -(CH2-CH2-O)X-CH2-CH2-
[0132] -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-
[0133] in which x and y, which may be the same or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent a defined and unique degree of polymerization, and numbers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent an average degree of polymerization;
[0134] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as piperazine derivatives;
[0135] c) bis-primary diamine residues of formula -NH-Y-NH-, wherein Y is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and the divalent group -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-. and
[0136] d) ureylene groups of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
[0137] In at least one embodiment, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
[0138] Polymers of this type are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,320,330; 2,270,846; 2,316,271; 2,336,434; and 2,413,907 and in U.S. Patent Nos. 2,273,780; 2,375,853; 2,388,614; 2,454,547; 3,206,462; 2,261,002; 2,271,378; 3,874,870; 4,001,432; 3,929,990; 3,966,904; 4,005,193; 4,025,617; 4,025,627; 4,025,653; 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.
[0139] Non-limiting examples of such polymers include those comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (III): Ru (III) 19th century Ru
[0140] in which
[0141] Rn, Ru, Rb and Ri6, which may be the same or different, are selected from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid. 1. Polyquaterary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (IV):
[0142] in which:
[0143] R18, R19, R2o and R2i, which may be the same or different, are selected from hydrogen, methyl groups, ethyl groups, propyl groups, [3-hydroxyethyl groups, [3-hydroxypropyl groups, -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)P OH groups, in which p is selected from integers ranging from 0 to 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R2[ are not simultaneously hydrogen,
[0144] r and s, which may be the same or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 6,
[0145] q is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 34,
[0146] X is an anion, such as a halide, and
[0147] A is selected from dihalide radicals and -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
[0148] These compounds are described, for example, in European patent application No. 0 122 324. 1. Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.
[0149] Other examples of suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising units selected from vinylpyridine and vinylpyridinium, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
[0150] According to an embodiment of the present invention, the (a-1) cationic polymer is chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymers, for example, homopolymers and copolymers of dimethyldiallyl chloride sold under the names MERQUAT® 100, MERQUAT® 550, and MERQUAT® S by the company CALGON, guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt and quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole. 1. Polyamines
[0151] As (a-1) cationic polymer, it is also possible to use (co)polyamines, which may be homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in the polymer backbone or a pendant group, if any, of the (co)polyamines.
[0152] Examples of (co)polyamines include chitosans, (co)polyallylamines, (co)polyvinylamines, (co)polyanilines, (co)polyvinylimidazoles, (co)polydimethylaminoethylene methacrylates, (co)polyvinylpyridines such as (co)poly-1-methyl-2-vinylpyridines, (co)polyimines such as (co)polyethyleneimines, (co)polypyridines such as (co)poly(quaternary pyridines), (co)polybiguanides such as (co)polyaminopropyl biguanides, (co)polylysines, (co)polyornithines, (co)polyarginines, (co)polyhistidines, aminodextrans, aminocelluloses, amino(co)polyvinyl acetals and their salts.
[0153] As (co)polyamines, it may be preferable to use (co)polylysines. Polylysine is well known. Polylysine may be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine may be e-Poly-L-lysine, typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water, propylene glycol, and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. Poly-L-lysine is preferable. Polylysine may be in salt and / or solution form. 1. Cationic polyamino acids
[0154] As the (a-1) cationic polymer, it may be possible to use cationic polyamino acids, which may be cationic homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups and carboxyl groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in a polymer backbone or a pendant group, if any, of the cationic polyamino acids. The carboxyl group may be present in a pendant group, if any, of the cationic polyamino acids.
[0155] Examples of cationic polyamino acids include cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydroxypropyl stear-dimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, hydroxypropyl steardimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl- hydrolyzed soy protein trimonium, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, and the like.
[0156] The following descriptions relate to preferable embodiments of the cationic polymer.
[0157] It is preferable that the (a-1) cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines and chitosans, cationic (co)polyamino acids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers and salts thereof.
[0158] It is more preferable that the (a-1) cationic polymer is chosen from chitosans.
[0159] It is preferable that the chitosan has a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000, preferably greater than 50,000 and, more preferably greater than 80,000. In other words, the (a-1) cationic polymer is a high molecular weight chitosan.
[0160] The molecular weight (Da) of chitosan may be less than 1,000,000, preferably less than 500,000 and, more preferably, less than 300,000.
[0161] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of chitosan may be greater than 20,000 and less than 1,000,000, preferably greater than 50,000 and less than 500,000, and more preferably greater than 80,000 and less than 300,000.
[0162] Unless otherwise indicated in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means weight average molecular weight. Molecular weight may be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.
[0163] Chitosan is very rare in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, the zygomycetes.
[0164] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by a [3 (1,4)] type bond.
[0165] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of [3-D-glucosamine] monomers linked by a glycosidic bond (1—>4).
[0166] The "chitosan" according to the present invention designates any copolymer formed from constituent units N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by bonds of type [3 (1,4) and is a polymer of type Poly (N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly (D-glucosamine).
[0167] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of the chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.
[0168] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the number of total units, it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or by titration with a strong base.
[0169] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant foods or biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.
[0170] The chitosan of the present invention is preferentially derived from the mycelium of an Ascomycete fungus, and in particular Aspergillus niger and / or a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.
[0171] Chitosan can be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organism) origin, but it is preferably of non-GMO origin.
[0172] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say that it is not modified. In particular, it does not contain any chemical modification.
[0173] A process for preparing chitosan is that described in WO03 / 068824.
[0174] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in the form of powder. It is marketed by Kitozyme under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime, for example Kiosmetine-CSH and Kiosmetine P.
[0175] It is preferable that (a-1) is chosen from chitosans, and more preferably chitosans with a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.
[0176] The amount of the (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0177] The amount of the (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0178] The amount of the (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0179] (Monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof)
[0180] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof. A single type of monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof or a combination of different types of monovalent non-polymeric acids or salts thereof may be used.
[0181] The term "non-polymeric" herein means that the acid is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Therefore, non-polymeric acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers such as polyacrylic acids.
[0182] The term "salt" herein refers to a salt formed by the addition of one or more suitable bases to the monovalent non-polymeric acid, which may be obtained from a reaction with the monovalent non-polymeric acid with the base(s) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As a salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K and alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca and ammonium salts.
[0183] It is preferable that the molecular weight of the monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid or a salt thereof is less than 1000, preferably 500 or less, and more preferably 200 or less.
[0184] The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be included in the aqueous phase formed by (a-3) water. The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may promote the dissolution of the (a-1) cationic polymer in (a-3) water.
[0185] The monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid has a single acid group which may be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group or a mixture thereof.
[0186] The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be selected from monovalent organic or inorganic acids and their salts.
[0187] It is preferable that the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid is a monovalent organic acid, and more preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid.
[0188] The monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid may be chosen from hydroxy acids, and preferably alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids. Examples of alpha-hydroxy acids that may be mentioned include, for example, lactic acid and glycolic acid. Examples of beta-hydroxy acids that may be mentioned include, for example, salicylic acid.
[0189] Thus, the monovalent non-polymeric acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid. If the (a-1) cationic polymer is chosen from Chitosans, lactic acid, and salicylic acid are particularly preferable because they can effectively dissolve chitosans and have little odor.
[0190] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0191] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0192] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid(s) or one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0193] (Water)
[0194] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (a-3) water.
[0195] (a-3) Water can form an aqueous phase which is a continuous phase of the com position according to the present invention.
[0196] The amount of (a-3) water may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0197] Furthermore, the amount of (a-3) water may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 97% by weight or less, and more preferably 95% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0198] The amount of (a-3) water may be from 40% to 99% by weight, preferably from 45% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0199] (Fatty Acid)
[0200] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b-1) at least one fatty acid. A single type of fatty acid may be used, or two or more different types of fatty acid may be used in combination.
[0201] the (b-1) fatty acid can hydrophobize the (a-1) cationic polymer.
[0202] The term "fatty acid" herein refers to a carboxylic acid with a long aliphatic carbon chain.
[0203] The (b-1) fatty acid has at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. The (b-1) fatty acid may comprise up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably up to 22 carbon atoms. It is preferable that the (b-1) fatty acid is chosen from C4-C26 fatty acid, more preferentially C6-C24 fatty acid, and even more preferentially C8"C22 fatty acid.
[0204] The (b-1) fatty acid may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus, the (b-1) fatty acid may be chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids in C4-C26, preferably in C6-C24, more preferably in C8-C22.
[0205] As unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, monounsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids may be used. As the unsaturated fraction of the unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, a carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond may be mentioned.
[0206] As saturated fatty acid, mention may be made, for example, of caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (Cio), lauric acid (Ci2), myristic acid (CM), pentadecanoic acid (Ci5), palmitic acid (Ci6), heptadecanoic acid (Ci7), stearic acid (C[8), isostearic acid (Ci8), nonadecanoic acid (Ci9), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and li-gnoceric acid (C24).
[0207] As unsaturated fatty acid, mention may be made, for example, of myristoleic acid (Ci4), palmitoleic acid (Ci6), oleic acid (Ci8), linoleic acid (Ci8), linolenic acid (Ci8), elaidic acid (Ci8), arachidonic acid (C20), eicosenoic acid (C20), erucic acid (C22) and nervonic acid (C24).
[0208] It is preferable that the (b-1) fatty acid is chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-Ci8 fatty acids, and more preferably from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0209] The (b-1) fatty acid may be in the form of a free acid or the form of a salt thereof. As the salt of the fatty acid, there may be an inorganic salt such as an alkali metal salt (a sodium salt, a potassium salt, or the like) and an alkaline earth metal salt (a magnesium salt, a salt salt, or the like); and an organic salt such as an ammonium salt (a quaternary ammonium salt or the like) and an amine salt (a triethanolamine salt, a triethylamine salt, or the like). A single type of fatty acid salt or a combination of different types of fatty acid salts may be used. Furthermore, a combination of one or more fatty acids in the free acid form and one or more fatty acids in the salt form may be used, wherein one or more types of salts may also be used.
[0210] The amount of the (b-1) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight. or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0211] Furthermore, the amount of the (b-1) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0212] Consequently, the amount of the (b-1) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0213] (Alcohol)
[0214] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (b-2) at least one alcohol. A single type of alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of alcohol may be used in combination.
[0215] The (b-2) alcohol may be in the form of a liquid at room temperature such as 25°C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa).
[0216] The (b-2) alcohol may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0217] The term "volatile" means that the alcohol can evaporate under normal atmospheric pressure such as 1 atm and room temperature such as 25°C.
[0218] The (b-2) monovalent or divalent alcohol may function to facilitate the complexation of the (b-1) fatty acid with the (a-1) cationic polymer.
[0219] The (b-2) alcohol may be a monovalent alcohol, preferentially chosen from monovalent aliphatic alcohols, monovalent aromatic alcohol and their mixtures, and more preferentially from monovalent aliphatic alcohols.
[0220] The monovalent aliphatic alcohol (mono-ol) may have 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, and a hydroxyl group. Examples of monovalent aliphatic alcohol include ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol and their mixture.
[0221] The monovalent aromatic alcohol may have 8 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 carbon atoms. Examples of monovalent aromatic alcohol include benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and a mixture thereof.
[0222] The (b-2) alcohol may be a divalent or polyvalent alcohol, preferably chosen from divalent or polyvalent aliphatic alcohols, divalent or polyvalent aromatic alcohols, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from divalent or polyvalent aliphatic alcohols.
[0223] The divalent aliphatic alcohol (di-ol) may have 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 7 carbon atoms, and more preferably 4 to 6 carbon atoms, and two hydroxyl groups. Examples of divalent aliphatic alcohol include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0224] Polyvalent aliphatic alcohol does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol obtained by the reduction of one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more hydroxy groups thereof have been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.
[0225] The polyhydric aliphatic alcohol (polyol) may have 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 9 carbon atoms, and more preferably 5 or 8 carbon atoms, and three or more hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyhydric aliphatic alcohol include glycerin and diglycerin.
[0226] It is preferable that the (b-2) alcohol is selected from the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol and their mixture.
[0227] The amount of the (b-2) alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0228] The amount of the (b-2) alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0229] The amount of the (b-2) alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0230] (Water insoluble particle)
[0231] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one water-insoluble particle. A single type of water-insoluble particle may be used, or two or more different types of water-insoluble particle may be used in combination.
[0232] According to the present invention, the (c) water-insoluble particle is negatively charged. In other words, the (c) water-insoluble particle has a negative charge.
[0233] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “water-insoluble” particle designates a particle whose solubility in water at 25°C is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the particle, and most preferably without solubility.
[0234] The size of the (c) water-insoluble particle as a raw material is not limited. The (c) water-insoluble particle may have an average (primary) particle size of 10 nm or more, preferably 20 nm or more, more preferably 30 nm or more, and even more preferably 40 nm or more, and / or 2 pm or less, preferably 1 pm or less, and more preferably 500 nm or less. The average (primary) particle size may be determined as the number average particle diameter and may be measured under an electron microscope.
[0235] The (c) water-insoluble particle is preferably in the form of a solid. More preferably, the (c) water-insoluble particle may form a powder. The (c) water-insoluble particle may be chosen from pigments and / or fillers and / or inorganic UV filters.
[0236] Pigment:
[0237] The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or colored and inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in the physiologically acceptable volatile medium such as water and which are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.
[0238] The pigments preferably have an absorption ranging from 380 to 780 nm, and in at least one embodiment, an absorption at a maximum in this absorption range.
[0239] The pigments may be organic pigments. As used herein, "organic pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may be selected, for example, from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, qui-nacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone compounds.
[0240] The at least one organic pigment may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, and 71105, the red pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 12085, CI 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described, for example, in French patent No. 2,679,771.
[0241] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described, for example, in European Patent No. 1,184,426. These composite pigments may be composed, for example, of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
[0242] Other examples may include pigment pastes of organic pigments such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names: Cosmenyl Yellow IOG: Pigment Yellow 3 (CI 11710); Cosmenyl Yellow G: Pigment Yellow 1 (CI 11680); Cosmenyl Orange GR: Pigment Orange 43 (CI 71105); Cosmenyl Red R": Pigment Red 4 (CI 12085); Carminé Cosmenyl FB: Pigment Red 5 (CI 12490); Violet Cosmenyl RL: Pigment Violet 23 (CI 51319); Cosmenyl Blue A2R: Pigment Blue 15.1 (CI 74160); Vert Cosmenyl GG: Pigment Green 7 (CI 74260); and Black Cosmenyl R: Pigment Black 7 (CI 77266).
[0243] The at least one pigment may also be selected from lakes. As used herein, the term "lake" refers to insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the resulting complex or compound remaining insoluble during use.
[0244] Inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed may include, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
[0245] Non-limiting examples of organic dyes include cochineal carmine and products known as: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053) and D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0246] A further non-limiting example of a lake is the product known as: D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).
[0247] The at least one pigment may also be a special effect pigment. As used herein, the term "special effect pigments" refers to pigments that generally create a non-uniform colored appearance (characterized by a certain hue, vibrancy and / or brightness) that changes depending on viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They thus contrast with white or colored pigments that provide an opaque tint, standard uniform semi-transparent or transparent.
[0248] There are two types of special effect pigments: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent, photochromic and thermochromic pigments, and those with a high refractive index, such as pearls and glitters.
[0249] The pigment may also be selected from interference effect pigments that are not fixed on a substrate, for example, liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) and holographic interference flakes (Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek).
[0250] Special effect pigments may also include fluorescent pigments, whether daylight fluorescent or ultraviolet fluorescent, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, and thermochromic pigments.
[0251] The pigment may also be an inorganic pigment, in a preferred embodiment. As used herein, the term "inorganic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Preferably, the inorganic pigments comprise at least one inorganic material. Non-limiting examples of inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include metal oxides, in particular, transition metal oxides, such as zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, iron oxides, zinc oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and titanium dioxide. The following inorganic pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3 O5, Ti2O3, TiO and ZrO2 in admixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2 and ZnS.
[0252] The pigment may also be a pearlescent pigment such as a white pearlescent pigment, for example, mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, a colored pearlescent pigment such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with titanium and, for example, ferric blue oxide or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above, as well as a pearlescent pigment based on bismuth oxychloride. Examples of these pigments may include Cellini pigments sold by Engelhard (Mica-TiO2-lake), Prestige sold by Eckart (Mica-TiO2 ) and Colorona sold by Merck (Mica-TiO2 Fe2O3).
[0253] In addition to nacres on a mica support, multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum, may be useful in accordance with the present disclosure.
[0254] Charge:
[0255] The term “filler” should be understood to mean an uncolored particle that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and insoluble in the physiologically acceptable volatile medium, even when these ingredients are brought to a temperature above room temperature. Of inorganic or organic nature, the fillers make it possible to confer firmness to the composition according to the present invention and / or softness and uniformity on the makeup which can be formed by the composition.
[0256] The filler may be selected from mineral and organic fillers. When the fillers are organic fillers, they are polymeric organic fillers. The filler may be particles of any shape, for example platelet-shaped, spherical and oblong, regardless of their crystallographic shape (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal and orthorhombic).
[0257] The fillers that can be used in the composition according to the present invention can be made from various inorganic and / or organic materials, and can include, but are not limited to, titanium dioxide; talc; natural or synthetic mica; alumina; aluminosilicate; silica (or silicon dioxides); kaolin or other insoluble silicates such as clays; polyamides (Nylon®), poly-[3-alanine and polyethylene powders; tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), powdered starch; boron nitride; acrylic acid polymer powders; silicone resin microbeads, for example “Tospearls®” from the company Toshiba; bismuth oxychlorides; precipitated calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate; hydroxyapatite;hollow silica microspheres such as “Silica Beads SB 700®” and “Silica Beads SB 700®” from Maprecos, “Sunspheres H-33®” and “Sunspheres H-51®” from Asahi Glass; acrylic polymer microspheres such as those made from crosslinked acrylate copolymer “Polytrap 6603®” from RP Scherrer and those made from polymethyl methacrylate “Micropearl M100®” from SEPPIC; polyurea powders; polyurethane powders such as the hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyl lactone copolymer powder sold under the name “Plastic Powder D-400®” by Toshiki; glass or ceramic microcapsules; microcapsules of polymers or copolymers of acrylate or methyl methacrylate, or alternatively copolymers of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile, for example, “Expancel®” from the company Expancel;elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders such as those sold under the name “KSP100®” by Shinetsu Chemical Company; porous cellulose beads such as those sold under the name Cellulose Beads USF® by Daito Kasei Company; and mixtures thereof.
[0258] Among the silicas useful in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of crystalline, microcrystalline and non-crystalline silicas.
[0259] For example, crystalline silicas that may be cited include quartz, tridymite, cristobalite, keatite, coesite and stishovite. Microcrystalline silicas are, for example, diatomite.
[0260] Among the non-crystalline forms that can be used are vitreous silica and other types of amorphous silicas such as colloidal silicas, silica gels, precipitated silicas and fumed silicas, e.g., aerosils, and pyrogenic silicas. Porous silica such as an aerogel (silica silicate) is preferred.
[0261] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) powder may comprise at least one inorganic material selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate and hydroxyapatite. The (c) powder may comprise selenium disulfide.
[0262] In another embodiment of the present invention, the (c) powder may comprise at least one organic material selected from the group consisting of polyurea, melamine-formaldehyde condensate, urea-formaldehyde condensate, aminoplast, polyurethane, polyacrylate, polyphosphate, polystyrene, polyester, polyamide, polyolefin, polysaccharide, silicone, silicone resin, protein, modified cellulose and gum.
[0263] Inorganic UV filter
[0264] The inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic.
[0265] It is preferable that the inorganic UV filter is in the form of a fine particle such that the average diameter of (primary) particles ranges from 1 nm to 50 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 40 nm, and more preferably from 10 nm to 30 nm. The average size of (primary) particles or the average diameter of (primary) particles is here an arithmetic average diameter.
[0266] The inorganic UV filter can be chosen from the group consisting of silicon carbide, coated or uncoated metal oxides and their mixtures.
[0267] Preferably, the inorganic UV filters may be chosen from inorganic particles (average size of the primary particles: generally from 5 nm to 50 nm, preferably from 10 nm to 50 nm) formed from metal oxides, such as, for example, titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline in rutile and / or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, which are all UV photoprotective agents well known as such. Preferably, the inorganic UV filters may be chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and more preferably titanium oxide.
[0268] Surface treatment:
[0269] The (c) water-insoluble particle may have been surface-treated to have a negative charge. The surface treatment may be carried out by any conventional process.
[0270] For the purposes of the present invention, the surface treatment is such that, for example, a surface-treated powder retains its intrinsic pre-treatment pigment properties and a surface-treated filler retains its intrinsic pre-treatment filling properties.
[0271] The (c) water-insoluble particle may be surface-treated with at least one acid or salt thereof.
[0272] The above acid has one or more acid groups which may be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group or a mixture thereof.
[0273] It is preferable that the above acid is non-polymeric. The term "non-polymeric" herein means that the acid is not obtained by the polymerization of two or more monomers. Therefore, non-polymeric acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by the polymerization of two or more monomers such as polyacrylic acids.
[0274] It is preferable that the molecular weight of the non-polymeric acid or its salt is less than 1000, preferably less than 900, and more preferably less than 800.
[0275] The term "salt" herein refers to a salt formed by the addition of one or more suitable bases to the monovalent non-polymeric acid, which may be obtained from a reaction with the monovalent non-polymeric acid with the base(s) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As a salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K and alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca and ammonium salts.
[0276] It is preferable that the acid is chosen from polyvalent acids and their salts.
[0277] The above polyvalent acid may be inorganic or organic.
[0278] Examples of inorganic polyvalent acids include sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid and their mixture.
[0279] Examples of organic polyvalent acids include dicarboxylic acids such as oxalic acid and malonic acid, tricarboxylic acids such as citric acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0280] It is preferable that the polyvalent acid is phytic acid or a salt thereof.
[0281] Thus, it is preferable that the (c) water-insoluble particle is chosen from metal oxides, more preferably titanium oxides, zinc oxides and iron oxides, and even more preferably titanium oxides, which have been surface-treated with at least one acid or salt thereof, preferably less than one polyvalent acid or a salt thereof, and more preferably phytic acid or a salt thereof.
[0282] The amount of the (c) water-insoluble particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0283] Furthermore, the amount of the (c) water-insoluble particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0284] Consequently, the amount of the (c) water-insoluble particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0285] (Optional ingredient)
[0286] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, surfactants / emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, derived, for example, from synthetic polymers other than the (a-1) cationic polymer; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents other than the (b-2) alcohol; anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers such as beta-glucan; silicones and silicone derivatives; natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than the (a-1) cationic polymer; waxes; and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0287] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0288] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil. Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0289] However, it is preferable that the amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention is limited. Thus, the amount of oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably in less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include oil.
[0290] The amount of the synthetic surfactant(s) / emulsifier(s) and / or thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include a synthetic surfactant / emulsifier or thickener.
[0291] The amount of the anionic polymer(s) or the amphoteric polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include an anionic or amphoteric polymer. [Preparation]
[0292] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
[0293] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0294] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and a homogenizer. In addition, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process of preparing the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly.
[0295] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is prepared by a process comprising the following steps: 1. mixing
[0296] (a-1) of at least one cationic polymer,
[0297] (a-2) of at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and
[0298] optionally (a-3) water
[0299] to form a first mixture (a); 1. the mixture
[0300] (b-1) of at least one fatty acid, and
[0301] optionally (b-2) of at least one alcohol
[0302] to form a second mixture (b); and 1. the mixture
[0303] of the first mixture (a) and the second mixture (b) with a negatively charged water-insoluble particle (c) to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0304] The (c) negatively charged water-insoluble particle may be prepared by mixing a water-insoluble particle with at least one polyvalent acid or salt thereof, preferably at least one non-polymeric polyvalent acid or salt thereof, and more preferably phytic acid or salt thereof.
[0305] The process for preparing the composition according to the present invention may further comprise an optional step of mixing at least one oil, provided that the amount of the oil(s) may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Cosmetic application]
[0306] The composition according to the present invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance. Keratinous substance herein refers to a material containing keratin as a main constituent element and, examples thereof include skin, scalp, lips, hair, and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is used for a cosmetic process for the keratinous substance, in particular the skin.
[0307] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition for the skin, preferably a cosmetic skin care composition or a skin makeup composition, and more preferably a cosmetic skin care composition.
[0308] The composition according to the present invention can provide a good feel to the touch (good texture). For example, the composition according to the present invention can provide a soft feel when applying the composition to a substrate such as a keratinous substance (e.g., skin).
[0309] The composition according to the present invention can be stable so that it does not cause clumping. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long period.
[0310] The composition according to the present invention can have good wettability. Therefore, when the composition according to the present invention is applied to a substrate such as a keratinous substance (e.g., skin), the composition according to the present invention can well cover the surface of the substrate due to the high affinity with the substrate. [Shape]
[0311] The composition according to the present invention may be present in any form.
[0312] For example, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a dispersion. The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a gel.
[0313] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a powder. [pH]
[0314] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3 to 9, preferably from 3.5 to 8, and more preferably from 4 to 7.
[0315] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be corrected by the addition of at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid, other than the non-polymeric (a-2) acid or a salt thereof. The pH of the composition according to the present invention may also be corrected by the addition of at least one buffering agent.
[0316] The composition according to the present invention can be used to easily prepare a film. In other words, the composition according to the present invention can form a film.
[0317] Thus, the present invention may also relate to a process for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 qm or more, more preferably 1.0 qm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 qm or more, comprising:
[0318] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, more preferably the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and
[0319] drying the composition.
[0320] The upper limit of the thickness of the film according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, for example, the thickness of the film according to the present invention may be 300 qm or less, preferably 200 qm or less, and even more preferably 100 qm or less.
[0321] Since the process for preparing a film according to the present invention includes the steps of applying the composition according to the present invention to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably the skin, and drying the composition, the process according to the present invention does not require spin coating or spraying, and therefore, it is possible to easily prepare a relatively thick film. Thus, the process for preparing a film according to the present invention can prepare a relatively thick film without any special equipment such as spin coating machines and spraying machines. verification.
[0322] When the composition according to the present invention is applied to a substrate such as a keratinous substance (e.g., skin) and dried, the particles in the composition according to the present invention can reduce in size and form a continuous film.
[0323] The composition according to the present invention can also have good film-forming ability. Therefore, when the composition according to the present invention is applied to a substrate such as a keratinous substance (e.g., skin) and dried, the composition according to the present invention can form a uniform film without cracking.
[0324] The film according to the present invention may be insoluble in water and thus may be water-resistant. Thus, the film according to the present invention may remain on a keratinous substance such as skin even if the surface of the keratinous substance is wet due to, for example, perspiration or rain. Thus, when the film according to the present invention provides a cosmetic effect, the cosmetic effect may last for a long time.
[0325] The film according to the present invention may be a transparent film that does not adversely affect the appearance of the substrate. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention may provide a natural appearance without an unnatural white appearance.
[0326] In addition, the composition according to the present invention can form a resilient film. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide a cosmetic film with a good texture such as elasticity.
[0327] Accordingly, the composition and film according to the present invention are useful for cosmetic applications.
[0328] The particle in the film according to the present invention may include a core-shell particle wherein the core may comprise mainly the (a-1) cationic polymer such as chitosan, while the shell may comprise mainly the (b-1) fatty acid. The core-shell particle may be combined with the (c) water-insoluble particle.
[0329] If the substrate is not a keratinous substance such as skin, the composition according to the present invention may be applied to a substrate made of any material other than keratin. The materials of the non-keratinous substrate are not limited. Two or more materials may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of material or a combination of different types of materials may be used. In any case, it is preferable that the substrate be soft or elastic.
[0330] If the non-keratinous substrate is in the form of a sheet, it may have a thickness greater than that of the film according to the present invention, in order to facilitate handling of the film attached to the substrate sheet. The thickness of the substrate sheet non-keratinous is not limited, but can be from 1 pm to 5 mm, preferably from 10 pm to 1 mm, and more preferably from 50 to 500 pm.
[0331] It is more preferable that the film according to the present invention is detachable from the non-keratinous substrate. The detachment method is not limited. For example, the film according to the present invention can be peeled off from the non-keratinous substrate.
[0332] The present invention may also relate to: 1. A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally having a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 pm, more preferably 1.0 pm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 pm or more, prepared by a process comprising:
[0333] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and
[0334] drying the composition,
[0335] and 1. A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 pm, more preferably 1.0 pm or more, even more preferably 1.5 pm or more, comprising:
[0336] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer,
[0337] (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof,
[0338] (b-1) at least one fatty acid, and
[0339] (c) at least one water-insoluble particle,
[0340] in which
[0341] the (c) water-insoluble particle is negatively charged.
[0342] The above explanations concerning the (a-1) cationic polymer, the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and (b-1) at least one fatty acid, as well as the (c) water-insoluble particle, for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those of the above film (2).
[0343] The film according to the present invention may also comprise (b-2) at least one alcohol, if the (b-2) alcohol is not volatile.
[0344] The film according to the present invention may be biocompatible and / or biodegradable.
[0345] The term "biocompatible" in this specification means that the film does not have excessive interaction between the film and cells of the living body including the skin, and that the film is not recognized by the living body as a foreign material.
[0346] The term "biodegradable" in this specification means that the film can be degraded or broken down in a living body due to, for example, the metabolism of the living body itself, or the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in the living body. In addition, the biodegradable film can be degraded by hydrolysis.
[0347] If the film according to the present invention is biocompatible and / or biodegradable, for example, it is less irritating or non-irritating to the skin and / or it may not contaminate environments.
[0348] In fact, the film according to the present invention may include (a-1) at least one cationic polymer chosen from chitosans which are biodegradable polymers.
[0349] The film according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments of keratinous substances, preferably the skin, in particular the face. The film according to the present invention can take any form. [Cosmetic process and use]
[0350] The present invention also relates to:
[0351] a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratinous substance the composition according to the present invention; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance; or
[0352] a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a cosmetic film on a keratinous substance such as the skin.
[0353] The cosmetic process here designates a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the surface of a keratinous substance such as the skin.
[0354] It is also possible to apply a cosmetic makeup composition to the cosmetic film according to the present invention after its application to the skin.
[0355] The present invention may also relate to a use of (b-1) at least one fatty acid and (c) at least one water-insoluble particle,
[0356] in a composition comprising:
[0357] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer,
[0358] in which
[0359] the (c) water-insoluble particle is negatively charged,
[0360] in order to prepare at least one complex comprising the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid, and the (c) water-insoluble particle.
[0361] The above explanations concerning the (a-1) cationic polymer, the (b-1) fatty acid and the (c) water-insoluble particle, for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those in the above use. EXAMPLES
[0362] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 [Preparations]
[0363] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values of the amounts of ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.
[0364] The details of the preparation are as follows.
[0365] (Example 1)
[0366] First, 0.63 g of chitosan raw material in the form of an 80% by weight aqueous solution, 0.32 g of lactic acid and 99.05 g of water were mixed to obtain a first mixture in an amount of 100 g.
[0367] Second, separately, 0.17 g of oleic acid and 9.83 g of ethanol were mixed to obtain a second mixture, in an amount of 10 g.
[0368] Third, separately, phytic acid and titanium dioxide were mixed and dispersed in water to obtain a third mixture in the form of an aqueous dispersion including 40% by weight of TiO2.
[0369] Then, 10 g of the first mixture and 1 g of the second mixture were mixed to obtain a liquid including hydrophobized chitosan gel particles. This liquid was mixed with the third mixture in a weight ratio of 3:1 (7.5 g of the liquid: 2.5 g of the third mixture) to obtain the composition according to Example 1. The pH of the composition according to Example 1 was corrected with NaOH to 5.
[0370] (Comparative Example 1)
[0371] First, 0.57 g of chitosan raw material in the form of 80% by weight aqueous solution, 0.29 g of lactic acid, 1.60 g of oleic acid, 9.60 g of corn oil and 87.94 g of water were mixed to obtain a first mixture.
[0372] Second, separately, phytic acid and titanium dioxide were mixed and dispersed in water to obtain a second mixture in the form of an aqueous dispersion including 40% by weight of TiO2.
[0373] Then, the first mixture and the second mixture were mixed in a weight ratio of 3:1 (7.5 g of the first mixture: 2.5 g of the second mixture) to obtain a composition according to Comparative Example 1. The pH of the composition according to Example 1 was corrected with NaOH to 5.
[0374] (Comparative Example 2)
[0375] First, 100.18 g of water and 9.82 g of ethanol were mixed to obtain a first mixture.
[0376] Second, separately, phytic acid and titanium dioxide were mixed and dispersed in water to obtain a second mixture in the form of an aqueous dispersion including 40% by weight of TiO2.
[0377] Then, the first mixture and the second mixture were mixed in a weight ratio of 3:1 (7.5 g of the first mixture: 2.5 g of the second mixture) to obtain a composition according to Comparative Example 2. The pH of the composition according to Example 1 was corrected with NaOH to 5.
[0378] (Comparative Example 3)
[0379] First, 0.63 g of chitosan raw material in the form of an 80% by weight aqueous solution, 0.32 g of lactic acid and 99.05 g of water were mixed to obtain a first mixture in an amount of 100 g.
[0380] Second, separately, 9.83 g of ethanol and 0.17 g of water were mixed to obtain a second mixture.
[0381] Third, separately, phytic acid and titanium dioxide were mixed and dispersed in water to obtain a third mixture in the form of an aqueous dispersion including 40% by weight of TiO2.
[0382] Then, 10 g of the first mixture and 1 g of the second mixture were mixed to obtain a liquid including chitosan. This liquid was mixed with the third mixture in a weight ratio of 3:1 (7.5 g of the liquid: 2.5 g of the third mixture) to obtain the composition according to Comparative Example 3. The pH of the composition according to Example 1 was corrected with NaOH to 5.
[0383] [Tableauxl] Ex. 1 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Ex. Comp. 3 Chitosan (80% aqueous solution by weight) 0.43 0.43 - 0.43 Lactic acid 0.22 0.22 - 0.22 Oleic acid 0.12 1.20 - - Ethanol 6.70 - 6.70 6.70 ZEA MAYS (Corn) Germ oil - 7.20 - - Titanium dioxide 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Phytic acid (50% aqueous solution by weight) 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 NaOH qs. pH 5 qs. pH 5 qs. pH 5 qs. pH 5 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Agglutination Good Poor Good Poor Wettability Good Poor Poor Poor Film-forming capacity Good Poor Poor Poor Water resistance Good Poor Poor Poor Texture Good Poor Poor Poor Whiteness Good Poor Poor Poor [Evaluations]
[0384] Photographs of the composition according to Example 1 and the composition according to Comparative Example 3 were obtained using an optical microscope, Keyence EZX70, as shown in Figures 1 and 2, respectively.
[0385] It was found that the composition according to Example 1 includes particles, while the composition according to Comparative Example 3 did not include any particles.
[0386] It is clear that the particles in the composition according to Example 1 comprise, at least, chitosan, oleic acid, as well as titanium oxide treated with phytic acid.
[0387] (Agglutination)
[0388] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was stored in a transparent container at room temperature (25°C) for one day. The appearance of the compositions was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0389] Good: Agglutination observed
[0390] Poor: No clumping observed
[0391] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0392] The composition according to Example 1 did not cause (fluid) agglutination, while the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3 did.
[0393] (Wettability)
[0394] 100 ql of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 3 were applied to a transparent polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plate at room temperature (25°C) to coat the plate.
[0395] The appearance of the wet coating before drying on the plate was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0396] Good: more than 70% of the plate surface has been covered
[0397] Poor: 70% or less of the plate surface was covered
[0398] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0399] The composition according to Example 1 was able to coat almost the entire surface of the plate, while the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3 could not do so. It is clear that the composition according to Example 1 exhibits good wettability.
[0400] (Film forming capacity)
[0401] 100 ql of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 3 were applied to a transparent polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plate at room temperature (25 °C) to coat the plate, and the coating was dried at room temperature.
[0402] The appearance of the coating after drying on the plate was observed visually and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0403] Good: no cracks were observed on the coating
[0404] Poor: a crack was observed on the coating
[0405] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0406] The composition according to Example 1 was able to provide a dry coating without cracking, while the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3 did not could not provide such a dry coating. It is clear that the composition according to Example 1 has good film-forming capacity.
[0407] (Water resistance)
[0408] 100 ql of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 3 were applied to a transparent polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plate at room temperature (25 °C) to coat the plate, and the coating was dried at room temperature.
[0409] The plate was immersed in water at room temperature (25°C) for 15 minutes.
[0410] The appearance of the coating on the plate was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0411] Good: more than 50% of the coating remained
[0412] Poor: 50% or less of the coating remained
[0413] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0414] The composition according to Example 1 was able to provide a water-resistant film, while the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3 could not provide such a water-resistant film.
[0415] (Texture)
[0416] 50 mg of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 3 were applied to a panelist's hand with a finger. Texture during application was assessed according to the following criteria.
[0417] Good: Sweet
[0418] Mediocre: Squealing
[0419] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0420] The composition according to Example 1 provided a soft touch sensation, while the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3 provided a crunchy touch sensation. In addition, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was also oily.
[0421] (Whiteness)
[0422] 50 mg of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 3 were applied to a panelist's hand with a finger, and dried. The appearance of the applied hand was evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0423] Good: Natural (not white)
[0424] Poor: White
[0425] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0426] The composition according to Example 1 provided a natural appearance without causing unnatural whiteness, while the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3 provided an unnatural appearance while causing whiteness. whiteness.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, preferably cosmetic composition, and more preferably cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: (a-1) at least one cationic polymer; (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; (b-1) at least one fatty acid; and (c) at least one water-insoluble particle, wherein the (c) water-insoluble particle is negatively charged.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a-1) cationic polymer has a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.
3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a-1) cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines and chitosans, cationic (co)polyamino acids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers, and their salts.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid is a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.
5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition further comprises (a-3) water.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the (b-1) fatty acid is chosen from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C4-C22, preferably C6-C20, more preferably C8-C18.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition further comprises (b-2) at least one alcohol, preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, and their mixture, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol, and their mixture.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in wherein the (c) water-insoluble particle is selected from metal oxides, preferably titanium oxides, zinc oxides and iron oxides, and more preferably titanium oxides, which have been surface-treated with at least one acid or salt thereof, preferably at least one polyvalent acid or salt thereof, and more preferably phytic acid or salt thereof.
9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of the (c) water-insoluble particle(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein at least the (a-1) cationic polymer, the (b-1) fatty acid and the (c) water-insoluble particle form at least one complex.