PRODUCT FOR DYEING HUMAN KERATINOUS FIBERS COMPRISING A DYEING COMPOSITION
A dyeing composition with fatty acids, non-ionic surfactants, and para-phenylenediamine derivatives addresses hair dyeing challenges by improving color performance and reducing ammonia-related issues, enhancing hair health and cosmetic properties.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023007873
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-07-21
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-15
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-07-21
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair dye compositions using ammonia and oxidizing agents cause irritation, unpleasant odors, and damage to keratinous fibers, while alternative compositions with reduced ammonia levels may still result in hair damage and suboptimal dyeing performance.
A dyeing composition comprising fatty acids, non-ionic surfactants, non-associative polymers, polyols, and para-phenylenediamine derivatives, combined with an oxidizing composition, to achieve effective dyeing with reduced ammonia exposure and improved hair health.
The composition provides enhanced color absorption, strength, and chromaticity, reduces hair damage, and minimizes unpleasant odors, while ensuring easy application and distribution, resulting in healthier and more vibrant hair.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: PRODUCT FOR DYEING HUMAN KERATINOUS FIBERS COMPRISING A DYEING COMPOSITION
[0001] The invention relates to a product for dyeing human keratinous fibers comprising a dyeing composition comprising one or more fatty acids, one or more non-ionic surfactants, one or more non-associative polymers, at least 10% by weight of one or more fatty substances, one or more polyols, a specific dye precursor and an oxidizing composition.
[0002] The invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular hair, using the composition resulting from the mixing of the dyeing and oxidizing compositions.
[0003] It is known practice, for dyeing human keratinous fibers, and in particular hair, to use oxidizing compositions, more particularly with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally called oxidation bases and couplers. These dye precursors are colorless or weakly colored compounds. When combined with an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, which is added at the time of use, they give rise, by a process of oxidative condensation, to colored compounds.
[0004] Generally speaking, this process is carried out at an alkaline pH, more particularly in the presence of ammonia, and produces a dyeing and, at the same time, a lightening of the fiber which is manifested in practice by the possibility of obtaining a possible coloring lighter than the original color. In addition, the lightening of the fiber has the advantageous effect of providing a unified color in the case of depigmented hair, and of accentuating the color - that is to say making it more visible - in the case of naturally pigmented hair.
[0005] However, although these conditions of use prove effective, they can give rise to a certain number of inconveniences at the time of their use.
[0006] In particular, when these compositions are applied to the hair, there is generally a release of ammonia, which can cause a stifling odor that irritates the eyes, respiratory tract and mucous membranes.
[0007] In addition, particularly in people with sensitive scalps, ammonia can cause discomfort reactions, such as redness, itching or tingling.
[0008] Finally, ammonia, in combination with the oxidizing agent, can also contribute to damaging keratinous fibers. Indeed, in the long term, we observe that the fibers are more or less degraded and that they tend to become dull, dull, fragile and difficult to style.
[0009] Consequently, in order to overcome all the drawbacks described above, numerous alternatives have already been proposed with the aim of significantly reducing the levels of ammonia in compositions intended for coloring fibers.
[0010] To this end, proposals have been made for applying, to the hair, coloring compositions which comprise a non-volatile organic amine, such as monoethanolamine. Although such compositions have the advantage of not releasing ammonia during their use, they generally give rise to discomfort reactions, and in particular to irritation in people with a sensitive scalp. Furthermore, for equivalent lightening performance, monoethanolamine damages the hair to a greater extent than ammonia.
[0011] To improve the condition of the hair, it has been proposed to use conditioning polymers, such as cationic or amphoteric polymers, but scalp comfort problems can still arise. There is a need to provide compositions capable of improving the deposition of these conditioning polymers on the hair while reducing the exposure of the scalp to these ingredients.
[0012] To reduce unpleasant odors of alkaline compositions, particularly when ammonia is used, scalp discomfort and damage to keratin fibers, while maintaining good coloring properties, WO2018019852 has already proposed using a dye composition comprising fatty acids, non-ionic surfactants, cationic or amphoteric polymers and at least 10% of fatty substances.
[0013] However, the dyeing performance levels after application to keratinous fibers can still be improved.
[0014] In addition, dye compositions often comprise a raw material, in particular dye precursors, for which regulatory conditions are increasingly strict. It is therefore necessary to develop compositions comprising variants of compounds, while maintaining the level of dyeing performance.
[0015] Thus, there is a need to provide a composition for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, which is capable of achieving performance levels, in particular in terms of absorption color, strength and chromaticity, while limiting hair damage and improving hair cosmetics.
[0016] These and other objectives are achieved by the present invention, a subject of which is therefore a product for dyeing human keratinous fibers, such as hair, containing:
[0017] A) a dyeing composition comprising:
[0018] (a) one or more fatty acids,
[0019] b) one or more non-ionic surfactants,
[0020] c) one or more non-associative polymers chosen from amphoteric polymers, cationic polymers and their mixture,
[0021] d) at least 10% by weight of one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0022] (e) one or more polyols,
[0023] f) one or more oxidation bases selected from para-phenylenediamine derivatives of formula (I), their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts: (D
[0024] in which R is chosen from:
[0025] i) a (Ci-C4)alkoxy(Cl-C4)alkyl radical,
[0026] ii) a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical;
[0027] (g) optionally, one or more couplers, and
[0028] B) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
[0029] The invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratinous fibers which includes the application to said fibers of the composition resulting from the mixing of the dyeing composition and the oxidizing composition.
[0030] The keratin fiber dyeing product according to the invention can achieve the above objectives, particularly in terms of color absorption, color strength, chromaticity, selectivity, fastness and working qualities. In addition, it results in good cosmetic properties of the hair.
[0031] The product according to the invention also makes it possible to produce various shades of color.
[0032] The product according to the invention also has the advantage of leading to effective lightening of keratinous fibers while at the same time reducing unpleasant and nauseating odors, in particular ammonia, which can be released when it is applied to said fibers.
[0033] The product of the invention also provides comfort to the scalp.
[0034] The product according to the invention also makes it possible to effectively revitalize keratinous fibers, in particular by giving them improved cosmetic properties, in particular by giving them a softer and more uniform feel, and also suppleness, as well as better shine.
[0035] The product of the invention has good operating properties, in particular it allows easy mixing of the dyeing and oxidizing compositions, easy application of the mixture and easy distribution throughout the hair.
[0036] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.
[0037] In the following text, unless otherwise stated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range. The expression "at least one" associated with an ingredient of the composition means "one or more".
[0038] The human keratinous fibers treated via the process according to the invention are preferably hair.
[0039] The product for dyeing keratinous fibers comprises a dyeing composition and an oxidizing composition. Dye composition Fatty Acids
[0040] The dyeing composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty acids.
[0041] The expression "fatty acid" designates a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.
[0042] The fatty acid of the invention may be present in free form or in partially or totally neutralized form.
[0043] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the dyeing composition according to the invention include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0044] Preferably, the fatty acids include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0045] Preferably, the fatty acids include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched unsaturated alkyl chain comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0046] More preferably, the fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from compounds having the structure RC(O)OH in which R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0047] For the purposes of the present invention, the fatty acids present in the dye composition are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0048] The fatty acids may be chosen from solid fatty acids and liquid fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0049] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “solid fatty acid” designates a fatty acid having a melting point greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa).
[0050] The solid fatty acids used in the present invention are in particular chosen from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0051] Particularly preferably, the solid fatty acid(s) are chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0052] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “liquid fatty acid” designates a fatty acid having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa).
[0053] The liquid fatty acid(s) according to the invention may be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably oleic acid.
[0054] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the dyeing composition according to the invention are chosen from lauric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, undecylenic acid, isocetyl acid, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and cetylstearic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferentially chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and their mixtures.
[0055] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the dyeing composition according to the invention are solid fatty acids, in particular chosen from fatty acids including at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched unsaturated alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0056] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the dyeing composition according to the invention are solid fatty acids, in particular chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid and their mixtures.
[0057] Advantageously, the fatty acid(s) are present in the dyeing composition in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% and preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition.
[0058] In a particular embodiment, the solid fatty acid(s) are advantageously present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% and preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition. Non-ionic surfactants
[0059] The non-ionic surfactants may be chosen from monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or their combination, preferably oxyethylene units.
[0060] Examples of oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be cited include: - oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols, - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8-C30 alcohols, - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 oxyalkylenated amides, - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and polyethylene glycols, - polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol, - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils, such as oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil (40 or 60 EO) - condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixture. - C8-C30 oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably C8-C30 oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan.
[0061] The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 80 and more preferably between 2 and 50.
[0062] The oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are preferably chosen from C8-C30 oxyethylenated alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide; polyoxyethylenated esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide.
[0063] As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, C8-C40 monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols are preferably used.
[0064] In particular, C8-C40 monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols correspond to the following formula:
[0065] RO-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O]mH
[0066] in which R represents a C8-C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10.
[0067] Examples of compounds which are suitable in the context of the invention include lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
[0068] Alcohol can represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols can coexist as a mixture.
[0069] Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferable to use the C8 / C10 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C10 / C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
[0070] Nonionic surfactants that may also be cited include non-oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglucoside esters, N-alkylglucamine and N-acylmethylglucamine derivatives, aldobionamides and amine oxides.
[0071] Mention may also be made of non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v
[0072] in which:
[0073] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
[0074] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0075] - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
[0076] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,
[0077] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.
[0078] Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:
[0079] - RI denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
[0080] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0081] -1 denotes a number ranging from 0 to 3, and preferably equal to 0,
[0082] - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
[0083] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.
[0084] The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is a 1,4-alkyl(poly)glycoside in C8 / C16 and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl / caprylyl glucosides are most particularly preferable.
[0085] Among the commercial products, we can cite the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.
[0086] Preferably, C8 / C16-alkyl(poly)glycosides 1,4 are used, in particular in 53% aqueous solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.
[0087] Among the non-ionic surfactants, it is preferable, according to the invention, to use oxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, preferably oxyethylenated, in particular chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated surfactants, preferably chosen from C8-C30 oxyethylenated alcohols and C8-C30 oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably C8-C30 oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan. More preferably, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from C8-C30 oxyethylenated alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, more preferably from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
[0088] Preferably, the dye composition comprises oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, nonionic nonionic surfactants, in particular chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated surfactants, preferentially chosen from C8-C30 oxyethylenated alcohols and C8-C30 oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters, preferentially C8-C30 oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters.
[0089] More preferably, the dye composition comprises C8-C30 oxyethylenated alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, more preferably from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
[0090] According to a specific embodiment, the dyeing composition of the invention comprises at least one oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactant comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9 and at least one oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactant comprising at least 10 EO units, said surfactants being preferentially chosen from oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols as described above.
[0091] The total amount of surfactants can range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and better still, from 1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0092] Non-associative amphoteric and cationic polymers
[0093] The dyeing composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-associative polymers chosen from amphoteric polymers, cationic polymers and their mixture.
[0094] The expression "amphoteric polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups, and anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0095]
[0096]
[0097]
[0098]
[0099]
[0100]
[0101]
[0102]
[0103] The amphoteric polymers may preferably be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of: (i) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylamide monomer, (ii) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium monomer, and (iii) one or more units derived from an acid monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type. Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i) are units of structure (la) below: in which RI denotes H or CH3 and R2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino or -NH-CH2 OH radical. Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of a single unit of formula (Ia). The motif derived from a (meth)acrylamide monomer of formula (Ia) in in which RI denotes H and R2 is an amino radical (NH2) is particularly preferable. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer itself. Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) are units of structure (lia) below: (Ha)
[0104]
[0105]
[0106]
[0107] in which: - R3 denotes H or CH3, - R4 denotes a group (CH2)k with k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4; - R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0108] - Y- is a union such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
[0109] Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of a single unit of formula (Ha).
[0110] Among these units derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyl trialkylammonium monomer of formula (IIa), those which are preferable are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R3 denotes a methyl radical, n is equal to 3, R5, R6 and R7 denote a methyl radical, and Y- denotes a chloride anion.
[0111] Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) are units of formula (IIIa): B । ç (he her)
[0112] in which R8 denotes H or CH3 and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical or a -NH-C(CH3)2-CH2-SO3H radical.
[0113] The preferred units of formula (Ilia) correspond to the monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
[0114] Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (Ilia) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which R8 denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical.
[0115] The acid monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be unneutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
[0116] Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of a single unit of formula (Ilia).
[0117] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type.
[0118] The content of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoal kyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferably from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.
[0119] The content of units derived from an acid monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferably from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.
[0120] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
[0121] - from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60% in moles of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i),
[0122] - from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferably from 20 mol% to 55 mol% mole of units derived from a monomer of the (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylamm onium (ii) type, and
[0123] - from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferably from 5 mol% to 15 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
[0124] Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type, of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of (meth)acrylic acid type as described above.
[0125] However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said amphoteric polymers consist solely of units derived from monomers (i) of (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type.
[0126] Examples of amphoteric polymers which are particularly preferred include acrylamide / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymers. These polymers are listed in the CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) under the name Polyquaternium 53. The corresponding products are sold in particular under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco.
[0127] As another type of amphoteric polymer that can be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-22). An example that can be cited is Merquat 280 sold by the company Nalco.
[0128] Preferably, the dyeing composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-associative amphoteric polymers, more preferably one or more copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, better still a copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
[0129] The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups, without anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups. Preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which
[0130]
[0131]
[0132] may be part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a side substituent directly linked to it. The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) between 500 and 5x106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3x106 approximately. Among the cationic polymers, we can cite more particularly: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae: NH HAS N. r / • HAS'] —QHg-ç— WHERE NH HAS r5
[0133] in which:
[0134] R3, which may be the same or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical CH3 ;
[0135] - A, which may be the same or different, represents a linear divalent alkyl group or branched from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0136] - R4, R5 and R6, which may be the same or different, represent a group alkyl containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0137] - RI and R2, which may be the same or different, represent an atom hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
[0138] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as an anion methosulfate or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
[0139] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyl groups (C1-C4), their acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
[0140] (2) Cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and Galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0141] (3) Polymers formed from piperazinyl units and alkylene radicals or divalent hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by rings aromatic or heterocyclic, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.
[0142] (4) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared, for example, by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides may be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin; a diepoxide; a dianhydride; an unsaturated dianhydride; a bisunsaturated derivative; a bishalohydrin; a bisazetidinium; a bishalocyclodiamine; a bisalkyl halide or alternatively an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bishalohydrin; a bisazetidinium, a bishalocyclodiamine, a bisalkyl halide; an epihalohydrin; a diepoxide and a bisunsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides may be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they may be quaternized.
[0143] (5) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents. Examples include adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
[0144] (6) Polymers obtained by the reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid being preferably between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyamino amide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio between the epichlorohydrin and the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1.
[0145] (7) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, such as that homopolymers or copolymers containing, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II): (h .¾ y aj / ■ >>
[0146] in which:
[0147] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
[0148] - R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
[0149] - RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, denote a Cl- alkyl group C6, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11, independently of each other, preferentially denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;
[0150] - Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
[0151] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) sold for example under the name MERQUAT 100 by the company Nalco, and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and acrylamide, sold in particular under the name MERQUAT 550 or MERQUAT 7SPR.
[0152] (8) Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:
[0153] R1& --Nk ™ — N4- B. ™ (^0 R X- R X-!'U Its
[0154] in which:
[0155] - R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be the same or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals,
[0156] or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom,
[0157] or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D group or -C0-NH-R17-D in which R17 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
[0158] - Al and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted into the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
[0159] - X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
[0160] it being understood that Al, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
[0161] furthermore, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-in which n and p, which may be identical or different, denote an integer from 2 to 20, and in which D denotes:
[0162] a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
[0163] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
[0164] c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a radical based on linear or branched hydrocarbons, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;
[0165] d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-;
[0166] Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100,000.
[0167] We can cite more particularly polymers which are composed of repeated units corresponding to the formula: H"" Rg x' fCHA — (W) X'
[0168] in which RI, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
[0169] A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that for which RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known under the name Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA).
[0170] (9) Polyquaterary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V): — N+ - NH- CO - (CH.,) -CO-NH • (CFU - hk - A— X- ï ..... ' § % (V) HAS-
[0171] where:
[0172] - R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH, in which p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
[0173] - r and s, which may be the same or different, are whole numbers included between 1 and 6,
[0174] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
[0175] - X- denotes an anion, such as a halide,
[0176] - A denotes a dihalide radical or preferentially represents -CH2-CH2-O- CH2-CH2-.
[0177] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, for example the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
[0178] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, designated under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
[0179] (12) Polymers comprising in their structure:
[0180] (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below: —CHr—CH—
[0181] (b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to formula (B) above- below: —CH™ CH— " | (B) NH'—CH n O
[0182] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
[0183] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferably from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
[0184] The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, can range from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.
[0185] Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
[0186] Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from the polymers of families (1), (2), (7) (8) and (10) mentioned above, preferably families (7) and (8).
[0187] Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, those which can be preferentially used are cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride), sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, hexadimethrine chloride and their mixtures.
[0188] The dyeing composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic and / or amphoteric polymers in an amount between 0.01% and 5% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 3% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the dyeing composition.
[0189] The dyeing composition according to the invention may comprise the amphoteric polymers in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 3% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the dyeing composition.
[0190] According to a specific embodiment, at least the fatty acid and at least the cationic and / or amphoteric polymers are present in a fatty acid / cationic and / or amphoteric polymer ratio ranging from 0.2 to 4, preferably from 0.3 to 3.5 and most preferably from 0.4 to 3. Fatty substances other than fatty acids
[0191] The dyeing composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids, the total content of fatty substances other than fatty acids being greater than or equal to 10% by weight of the weight of the dyeing composition.
[0192] Other than fatty acids means other than free fatty acids and neutralized fatty acids.
[0193] The expression "fatty substance" designates an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They carry in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0194] The fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0195] Preferably, the fatty substances which can be used according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
[0196] The term "non-silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and the term "silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.
[0197] The fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. The expression “liquid fatty substance” designates a fatty substance whose melting point is less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa) and the expression “solid fatty substance” designates a fatty substance whose melting point is greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa).
[0198] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).
[0199] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention are chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
[0200] It is recalled that fatty alcohols and esters more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular, by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0201] With respect to the C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, these may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be cited include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0202] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® and their mixtures.
[0203] One animal-derived hydrocarbon-based oil that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
[0204] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from triglycerides of liquid fatty acids including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cucurbit oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and their mixtures.
[0205] Concerning the fluorinated oils, they can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetrafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by 3M.
[0206] The liquid fatty alcohols which are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples which may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.
[0207] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0208] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid is branched.
[0209] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate; 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate and mixtures thereof.
[0210] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate will be used, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0211] Esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0212] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0213] The dye composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons carrying several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described above.
[0214] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0215] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C6 to C30 and preferably in C12 to C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0216] The esters can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
[0217] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, for example in particular such as mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate.
[0218] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0219] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0220] Preferably, a liquid ester of a monoacid and a monoalcohol will be used.
[0221] According to one embodiment, the fatty substances which are useful according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, and their mixtures, more preferably from liquid fatty alcohols.
[0222] Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils and their mixtures.
[0223] Solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.
[0224] The solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
[0225] The expression “fatty alcohol” designates a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0226] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0227] The solid fatty alcohols which can be used are preferentially chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferentially linear and saturated, including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0228] The solid fatty alcohols which can be used can be chosen, alone or in a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1- hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0229] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0230] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol which can be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
[0231] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may be optionally hydroxylated and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0232] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0233] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0234] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
[0235] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point above about 40°C, which can go up to 200°C, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.
[0236] In particular, the waxes which are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0237] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for example beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, lacquer wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; lignite wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.
[0238] Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.
[0239] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0240] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C8 to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may be made in particular of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, in particular the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
[0241] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, can also be used.
[0242] A wax that may also be used is a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydropolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company Koster Keunen.
[0243] It is also possible to use micro-waxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include carnauba micro-waxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic wax micro-waxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, micro-waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, micro-waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene micro-waxes, such as the products sold under the names Micro 200®, 220L®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetraethylene micro-waxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by Micro Powders Company. ;
[0244] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for example paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; vegetable waxes, for example cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugar cane waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, alfa wax or absolute flower waxes, such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for example beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0245] The ceramides, or ceramide analogues such as glyceramides, which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are known; in particular, mention may be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
[0246] The ceramides or analogues thereof which can be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:
[0247] RI denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
[0248] R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
[0249] R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted by one or more alkyl groups in C1-C14; provided that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.
[0250] The ceramides which are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated C15 group.
[0251] Preferably, ceramides are used for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.
[0252] It is also possible to use compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a radical based on saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbons and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.
[0253] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoyinohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingoine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingoine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoylhydrodihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)cetyl acid amide, and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be preferably used.
[0254] The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0255] Butters can also be used.
[0256] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" (also called "pasty fatty substance") denotes a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, comprising at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting start temperature greater than 25°C and an end melting temperature less than 60°C.
[0257] Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin, such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published online: June 15, 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0258] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.
[0259] According to another preferred embodiment, the fatty substances other than fatty acids which are useful according to the invention are chosen from solid fatty substances, preferentially chosen from solid fatty alcohols.
[0260] The total content of fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids preferably ranges from 10% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 12% to 30% by weight and better still from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0261] Preferably, the dyeing composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance other than fatty acids, preferentially chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, in particular chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
[0262] When the dyeing composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances other than fatty acids, the total content of fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, preferably ranges from 10% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 12% to 30% by weight and better still from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition.
[0263] Preferably, the dyeing composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and their mixtures, more preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils and their mixtures.
[0264] When the dyeing composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances other than fatty acids, the total content of liquid fatty substances other than fatty acids preferably ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and better still from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition.
[0265] According to a preferred embodiment, the dyeing composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols and one or more liquid fatty substances other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils and their mixtures. Polyols
[0266] The dyeing composition according to the invention also comprises one or more polyols.
[0267] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" denotes an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon-based chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) carried by different carbon atoms, this compound being optionally cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated.
[0268] Preferably, the polyols are different from the fatty alcohols described above.
[0269] The polyols are different from the non-ionic surfactants.
[0270] Polyols are different from dyes.
[0271] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups, even more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups, preferentially 2 hydroxyl groups.
[0272] The polyol(s) are preferably chosen from diols, more preferably from C3-C6 diols.
[0273] The polyols are preferably chosen from propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, preferably from propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof, and better still propylene glycol.
[0274] Preferably, the dye composition comprises one or more diols chosen from propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sugars, such as glucose, and mixtures thereof, preferentially among propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and their mixtures, and better still propylene glycol.
[0275] Preferably, the dyeing composition comprises propylene glycol.
[0276] Advantageously, the total quantity of polyols ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition.
[0277] More advantageously, the total amount of propylene glycol ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition. Dye precursors
[0278] The dyeing composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases. Oxidation bases
[0279] The dye composition comprises one or more oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine derivatives of formula (I), their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts: (I) NH 3 NH2
[0280] in which R is chosen from: i. (a) a (Ci-C4)alkoxy(Ci-C4)alkyl radical,
[0281] ii) a CrC4 hydroxyalkyl radical.
[0282] The term “alkyl” radical designates a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain.
[0283] The expression radical (CrC4)alkoxy(Ci-C4)alkyl is intended to denote an alkyl-O-alkyl radical, each of the alkyl groups, independently of one another, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0284] The expression CrC4 hydroxyalkyl radical is intended to denote an alkyl radical substituted by a hydroxy group (alkyl-OH), the alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0285] Preferably, the para-phenylenediamine derivative(s) of formula (I) are chosen from those in which R is chosen:
[0286] i) a (Ci-C2)alkoxy(Ci-C2)alkyl radical, preferably a methoxymethyl radical;
[0287] ii) a C1-C3, preferably C2-C3, hydroxyalkyl radical, more preferably ch2ch2oh, ch2ch2ch2oh.
[0288] The addition salts of the compound of formula (I) present in the composition used in the process according to the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0289] In addition, the solvates of the compound of formula (I) more particularly represent the hydrates of said compound and / or the combination of said compound with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0290] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) chosen from the para-phenylenediamine derivatives of formula (I), their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts are chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[>-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, one of their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts.
[0291] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) chosen from para-phenylenediamine derivatives of formula (I), their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts are preferentially chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, one of its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts.
[0292] The total content of oxidation base(s) chosen from para-phenylenediamine derivatives of formula (I), one of their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the dyeing composition.
[0293] When present, the total content of oxidation base chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, one of its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the dyeing composition.
[0294] When present, the total content of oxidation base chosen from 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, one of its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the dyeing composition.
[0295] When present, the total content of oxidation base chosen from 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, one of its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the dyeing composition.
[0296] The dye composition used in the process according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more additional oxidation bases different from the compound of formula (I), chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, their addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.
[0297] Among the para-phenylenediamines different from the compound of formula (I), there may be mentioned, by way of example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- [3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, their acid addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.
[0298] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, mention may be made, for example, of N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis([1-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, their salts addition with an acid and their solvates.
[0299] Among the para-aminophenols, mention may be made, by way of example, of para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, their addition salts with an acid and their solvates.
[0300] Among the ortho-aminophenols, mention may be made, for example, of 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol, 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, their addition salts with an acid and their solvates.
[0301] Among the heterocyclic bases, mention may be made, as an example, of pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
[0302] Among the pyridine derivatives which may be cited are the compounds described, for example, in GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.
[0303] Other pyridine oxidation bases which are useful in the present disclosure are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples which may be cited include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l, 5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l, 5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3, 5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5 -a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their addition salts. ,
[0304] More particularly, the oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridines and preferentially substituted on carbon atom 2 by:
[0305] a) a (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl, amino or imidazolium group;
[0306] b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C6) alkyl groups, such as a (C1-C4) dialkylpiperazinium group; or
[0307] c) a (C1-C6) alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, such as a [3-hydroxyalkoxy] group, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.
[0308] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375, or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0309] Among the pyrazole derivatives which may be cited are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, for example 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyr azole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-Dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-l-methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts. 4,5-Diamino-l-([3-methoxyethyl)pyrazole can also be used. ,
[0310] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, the solvates and the solvates of their salts.
[0311] Pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and salts d’addition correspondants : 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-éthylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidine-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diméthyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diéthyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di(2-hydroxyéthyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyéthyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-diméthylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diéthyl-5-(pyrrolidine-l-yl)-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-diméthylaminopyrrolidin-l-yl)-l,2-diéthyl-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one et 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[ 1,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one.
[0312] 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt, the solvates and the solvates of their salts will preferably be used.
[0313] Preferably, as heterocyclic bases, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt will be used.
[0314] These compounds may also be present in solvated form.
[0315] The addition salts of the additional oxidation bases which can be present in the composition used in the process according to the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0316] In addition, the solvates of the additional oxidation bases represent more particularly the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0317] Preferably, the dyeing composition according to the invention is free from oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.
[0318] When the dyeing composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional oxidation bases, the total content of additional oxidation base(s) different from the para-phenylenediamine derivatives of formula (I), their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts, present in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition. Oxidation couplers
[0319] The dye composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more oxidation couplers.
[0320] Preferably, the dyeing composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers.
[0321] By way of example, the oxidation couplers may be chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, as well as their geometric or optical isomers, their tautomers, their corresponding addition salts or their solvates according to the invention.
[0322] Examples that may be mentioned include 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(B-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1B-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(B-hydroxyethylamino )toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, lH-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[ l,5-b][l,2,4]triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c][l,2,4]triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l, 5-a]benzhnidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol,2-amino-5-ethylphenol, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 5-N-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-[3-amino-4-methoxyphenyl]amino] ethanol, the corresponding addition salts with an acid.
[0323] More preferably, the oxidation coupler(s) are selected from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, their addition salts, their solvates and their mixtures; and more preferably still from 2-amino-5-ethyl-phenol, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 3-aminophenol, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 5-N-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino- l-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, a-naphthol, 2-[3-amino-4-methoxyphenyl]amino)ethanol, their addition salts, their solvates, and their mixtures.
[0324] According to a preferred embodiment, the dyeing composition comprises one or more couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and their mixtures.
[0325] Preferably, the dyeing composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.
[0326] In general, the addition salts of the couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0327] Preferably, when the dye composition comprises at least one oxidation coupler, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dye composition according to the invention.
[0328] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the total content of oxidation base(s) chosen from para-phenylenediamine derivatives of formula (I), one of their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and the total content of oxidation coupler(s) ranges from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.5 to 5.
[0329] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the total content of oxidation base(s) and the total content of oxidation couplers ranges from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.3 to 3. [Associative polymers]
[0330] According to one embodiment, the dyeing composition of the invention may contain one or more associative polymers.
[0331] Preferably, the dyeing composition of the invention comprises one or more associative polymers.
[0332] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “associative polymer” designates water-soluble polymers which are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules.
[0333] Their chemical structure comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region characterized by at least one C8-C30 fatty chain.
[0334] The associative polymers according to the invention may be of the anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic type.
[0335] Preferably, the dyeing composition comprises one or more non-ionic associative polymers.
[0336] The non-ionic associative polymers are preferably chosen from:
[0337] -(1) celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one chain fat;
[0338] Examples that may be cited include:
[0339] - Hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the linear or branched alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for example the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS# (Cl6 alkyl) sold by the company Aqualon, the product Polysurf 67 CS (cetylhydroxyethylcellulose) sold by the company Ashland or the product Bermocoll EHM 100# sold by the company Berol Nobel,
[0340] - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene groups glycol ether, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500# (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol,
[0341] - hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses modified by linear alkyl groups or branched in C8-C22, for example the product Sangelose 60L (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose stearoxy ether) sold by the company Daido Chemical,
[0342] -(2) Hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22# (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the Lamberti company, and the products RE210-18# (CM alkyl chain) and RE205-1# (C2o alkyl chain) sold by the Rhône-Poulenc company,
[0343] -(3) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic monomers with a chain fat; examples that may be cited include:
[0344] - Antaron V216# and Ganex V216# products (vinylpyrrolidone / copolymer hexadecene) sold by the company ISP.
[0345] - Antaron V220# and Ganex V220# products (vinylpyrrolidone / copolymer eicosene) sold by the company ISP,
[0346] -(4) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name ANTIL 208#,
[0347] -(5) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and monomers hydrophobic comprising at least one fatty chain, for example polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer,
[0348] -(6) polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both blocks hydrophilic usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which can be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences,
[0349] -(7) polymers with an aminoplastic ether backbone containing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix# compounds sold by the company Sud-Chemie.
[0350] Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains optionally being pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendant chains to be included. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
[0351] Polyether polyurethanes may be multi-block, particularly in tri-block form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: tri-block copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multi-block copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.
[0352] Nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic blocks, from which the name comes.
[0353] By extension, also included among the non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
[0354] As examples of non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers which can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate 205# containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate# 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184#.
[0355] Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210# containing a C 12-14 alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212# containing a C[8] alkyl chain, from Akzo.
[0356] Rohm & Haas product DW 1206B# carrying a C2o alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, can also be used.
[0357] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of these polymers which may be cited are Rheolate# 255, Rheolate# 278 and Rheolate# 244 sold by the company Rheox. The products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas can also be used.
[0358] Mention may also be made of Luvigel Star (polyurethane-39) sold by the company BASF, which is a copolymer of PEG-140 and hexamethylene diisocyanate terminated by Cn-10 pareth-10, C16-17 pareth-11 and C18-20 pareth-11.
[0359] The polyurethane polyethers which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci. 271, 380 to 389, 1993.
[0360] Even more particularly, according to the invention, it is preferable to use a polyether polyurethane which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising: i. at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, ii. stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and iii. at least one diisocyanate.
[0361] These polyurethane polyethers are sold in particular by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46# and Aculyn 44# [Aculyn 46# is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44# is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
[0362] In a preferred embodiment according to the present invention, the associative polymers are chosen from non-ionic associative polymers, as described above and more specifically from non-ionic associative cellulose derivatives.
[0363] Preferably, the dyeing composition according to the present invention comprises one or more non-ionic associative cellulose derivatives.
[0364] The associative polymer(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.005% to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.01% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition. Alkaline Agent
[0365] The dyeing composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more hybrid mineral, organic or alkaline agents.
[0366] Preferably, the dyeing composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent.
[0367] For the purposes of the present invention, the expressions “alkaline agent” and “basifying agent” are used interchangeably.
[0368] The mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.
[0369] The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.
[0370] The term “alkanolamine” designates an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0371] Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.
[0372] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and mixtures thereof.
[0373] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferentially chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
[0374] The organic amine may also be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In addition to histidine, which has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from dipeptides of amino acid. Amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention include, in particular, carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine function. Such amines other than arginine that may be used in the present invention include, in particular, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.
[0375] Hybrid compounds that may be used include in particular guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.
[0376] The alkaline agent(s) useful according to the invention are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium carbonate (hydrogen) and potassium carbonate (hydrogen), alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from alkanolamines and ammonium hydroxide, better still from alkanolamines, even better still from monoethanolamine.
[0377] According to a particular preferred embodiment, the dyeing composition according to the invention is free of ammonium hydroxide.
[0378] The total content of alkaline agent(s), when present, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, better still from 2% to 25% by weight, and even better still from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition.
[0379] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of alkanolamine, preferably monoethanolamine, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, better still from 2% to 25% by weight, even better still from 4% to 20% by weight, by weight, relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition.
[0380] Preferably, the pH of the dyeing composition is between 8 and 13, more preferably between 9 and 12.
[0381] The pH of the composition can be corrected to the desired value by means of one or more acidic or alkaline agents commonly used in the dyeing of keratinous fibers, such as those described above, or alternatively by means of buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
[0382] The dyeing composition according to the invention is preferably an aqueous composition. The dyeing composition preferably comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal at 10% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight, even better greater than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition. Additives
[0383] The dyeing composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which may be mentioned mineral thickening agents, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, sequestering agents, solvents other than polyols, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and / or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes and preservatives.
[0384] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds so that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or not significantly, negatively affected by the addition(s) envisaged.
[0385] The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition.
[0386] Preferably, the dyeing composition according to the invention does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents. Lamellar Structure
[0387] The dye composition according to the present invention may have a lamellar structure or a lamellar phase. The expression "lamellar structure" designates a liquid crystalline structure or phase with plane symmetry, comprising several amphiphilic bilayers arranged in parallel and separated by a liquid medium which is generally water. Preferably, the dye composition according to the present invention may have a lamellar phase Lp Oxidizing Composition
[0388] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidizing agents.
[0389] The oxidizing agents are selected, for example, from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for example persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali metal or alkaline earth metal percarbonates. In some embodiments, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
[0390] Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide.
[0391] The content of oxidizing agent(s), preferably hydrogen peroxide, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.
[0392] The oxidizing composition according to the invention may comprise water and / or one or more organic solvents.
[0393] Examples of organic solvents that may be cited include linear or branched and preferably saturated monoalcohols or diols, comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenylethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for example ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or its ethers, for example propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, in particular C1-C4 alkyl ethers, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or in the form of a mixture.
[0394] The organic solvents, when present, generally represent between 0.1% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably between 0.4% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
[0395] The oxidizing composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous. In this case, the oxidizing composition preferably comprises from 30% to 99% by weight of water, better still from 40% to 95% by weight of water and even better still from 50% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
[0396] The oxidizing composition of the invention may also contain various adjuvants traditionally used in hair dyeing compositions, such as non-ionic surfactants, fatty alcohol, antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants; perfumes; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifiers.
[0397] The above adjuvants may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, between 0.01% and 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.
[0398] Preferably, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when it is aqueous, is less than 7.
[0399] The invention also relates to a product containing:
[0400] A) a dyeing composition comprising:
[0401] a) one or more solid fatty acids,
[0402] b) one or more non-ionic surfactants,
[0403] c) one or more non-associative polymers chosen from amphoteric polymers, cationic polymers and their mixture,
[0404] d) at least 10% by weight of one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0405] e) one or more polyols,
[0406] f) one or more oxidation bases selected from para-phenylenediamine derivatives of formula (I), their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts: (D NH g NH 2
[0407] in which R is chosen from:
[0408] i) a (Ci-C4)alkoxy(Cl-C4)alkyl radical,
[0409] ii) a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical;
[0410] (g) optionally, one or more couplers, and
[0411] B) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0412] The invention also relates to a product containing:
[0413] A) a dyeing composition comprising:
[0414] a) one or more solid fatty acids,
[0415] b) one or more non-ionic surfactants,
[0416] c) one or more non-associative polymers chosen from amphoteric polymers, cationic polymers and their mixture,
[0417] d) at least 10% by weight of cetearyl alcohol relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition,
[0418] e) one or more polyols, preferably propylene glycol,
[0419] f) one or more oxidation bases selected from para-phenylenediamine derivatives of formula (I), their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts: (I) nh3 J... "R Nrh
[0420] in which R is chosen from:
[0421] i) a (Ci-C4)alkoxy(Cl-C4)alkyl radical,
[0422] ii) a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical;
[0423] g) optionally, one or more couplers, and
[0424] B) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide. Product
[0425] The product according to the invention is preferably a multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the dyeing composition as described above and at least a second compartment containing the oxidizing composition as described above.
[0426] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by suitable application means which may be the same or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.
[0427] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for distributing the desired mixture onto the hair, for example the devices described in patent FR 2586913.
[0428] The apparatus may be in the form of one or more sachets. The dye composition and the oxidizing composition may be packaged in a separate sachet or in a single double-compartment sachet. Process
[0429] The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, preferably hair, which includes mixing the dyeing composition as described above with the oxidizing composition as described above and applying a ready-to-use composition resulting from the mixing.
[0430] This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.
[0431] Preferably, the weight ratio between the quantities of dyeing composition and oxidizing composition ranges from 0.1 to 10 and preferably from 0.3 to 3.
[0432] The ready-to-use composition can be applied to wet or dry keratinous fibers.
[0433] After a leave-on time of one minute to one hour and preferably of 5 minutes to 50 minutes, the human keratinous fibers are rinsed with water, and optionally washed with a shampoo, then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.
[0434] Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 8 and 11, preferably between 9.0 and 10.5.
[0435] The temperature during the process is traditionally between room temperature (15 to 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60°C.
[0436] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, having a limiting character. EXAMPLES
[0437] The following compositions are prepared (the quantities are expressed in % in g of active material): Example 1
[0438] [Tables 1] Dye composition A 2-METHOXYMETHYL-p-PHENYLENEDIAMINE 2.80 N,N-BIS(2-HYDROXYETHYL)-p-PH ENYLENEDIAMINE SULFATE 0.48 2,4-DIAMINOPHENOXYETHANOL HCL 0.68 HYDROXYBENZOMORPHOLINE 1.11 m-AMINOPHENOL 0.07 Propylene glycol 5.00 OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) OIL 0.10 Mineral oil 6.00 Polyquaternium-22 0.33 Cetearyl alcohol 17.00 Cetylhydroxyethylcellulose 0.05 Laureth-12 1.50 Laureth-4 3.00 Oleth-20 1.50 Polysorbate 21 2.40 Myristic acid 0.02 Palmitic acid 0.26 Stearic acid 0.32 EDTA 0.20 Monoethanolamine 5.50 Sodium metabisulfite 0.75 Ascorbic acid 0.25 Perfume qs Water Up to 100 Oxidizing composition
[0439] Oxidizing composition B was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:
[0440] [Tables2] Ingredients B SODIUM SALICYLATE 0.035 TETRASODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE 0.04 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 6.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 2.28 CETEARETH-25 0.57 TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE 0.06 TRIDECETH-2 CARBOXAMIDE MEA 0.85 GLYCEROL 0.50 PHOSPHORIC ACID qs pH 2.2 Water qs 100 Dyeing protocol
[0441] Dyeing composition A is mixed with oxidizing composition B in a 1 / 1 weight ratio.
[0442] The mixture is applied to strands of natural hair, in a proportion of 5 g of mixture to 1 g of hair.
[0443] The compositions are easily mixed and the resulting mixtures are easily applied to the hair.
[0444] After a 30-minute exposure time on a heating plate at 27°C, the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo, and dried.
[0445] We can achieve good color visibility on treated hair and good shine and softness.
Claims
Claims
1. Product for dyeing human keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: A) a dye composition comprising: a) one or more fatty acids, b) one or more non-ionic surfactants, c) one or more non-associative polymers chosen from amphoteric polymers, cationic polymers and their mixture, d) at least 10% by weight of one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids, relative to the total weight of the composition, e) one or more polyols, f) one or more oxidation bases selected from para-phenylenediamine derivatives of formula (I), their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts: (D NHa ''''f NH 2 in which R is chosen from: i) a (Ci-C4)alkoxy(Ci-C4)alkyl radical, ii) a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical; g) optionally, one or more couplers, and B) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
2. Product according to the preceding claim, wherein said one or more fatty acids include at least one carboxylic acid and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
3. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said one or more fatty acids are solid fatty acids, in particular chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferentially among myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid and their mixtures.
4. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said one or more non-ionic surfactants are chosen from oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, non-ionic surfactants, in particular chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated surfactants, preferentially chosen from C8-C30 oxyethylenated alcohols and C8-C30 oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferentially from C8-C30 oxyethylenated alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferentially from 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, more preferentially from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
5. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said one or more non-associative polymers are chosen from: - cationic cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salt, hexadimethrine chloride and mixtures thereof, - amphoteric polymers chosen from polymers consisting of units derived from monomers (i) of (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialky lammonium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type, copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, - and their mixtures, preferably among amphoteric polymers chosen from polymers consisting of units derived from monomers (i) of (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type, copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, and their mixtures.
6. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dyeing composition comprises at least one liquid fatty substance other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, more preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, or mixtures thereof and / or at least one solid fatty substance other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, in particular chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
7. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said one or more polyols are chosen from diols, preferably from C3-C6 diols, more preferably from propylene glycol.
8. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total amount of polyols in the dye composition ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dye composition.
9. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oxidation base(s) of formula (I) are chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, one of their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, one of its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts.
10. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dyeing composition comprises one or more alkaline agents, preferably chosen from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali metal or alkaline metal. earthy, more preferably among alkanolamines, more preferably among monoethanolamine.