COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SOLID FATTY ALCOHOL, A CATIONIC SURFACTANT, AN AMPHOTOREAL SURFACTANT, A NON-IONIC POLYSACCHARIDE AND A CATIONIC POLYMER
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023009393
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-09-06
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-07
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SOLID FATTY ALCOHOL, A CATIONIC SURFACTANT, AN AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT, A NON-IONIC POLYSACCHARIDE AND A POLYMER CATIONIC
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising at least one solid fatty alcohol, at least one cationic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant, at least one non-ionic polysaccharide and at least one cationic polymer.
[0002] The invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment, in particular care, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of application to said fibers of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
[0003] The invention further relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for the cosmetic treatment, preferably the care, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0004] Natural hair or hair that has been treated with various chemical treatments can be dull, lacking care, damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening and repeated washing.
[0005] The hair thus finds itself lacking care for natural hair or damaged by these different factors and can in the long run become dry, rough, brittle, dull, split and / or limp.
[0006] To overcome these drawbacks, it is usual to use hair care products which use compositions intended to care for and / or condition the hair in a suitable manner by providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular smoothing, shine and softness to the touch (a natural feel, the hair is no longer rough).
[0007] These hair care compositions may be, for example, conditioning shampoos, conditioners, masks, creams or serums.
[0008] However, these hair care compositions do not always give complete satisfaction in terms of visual aesthetics such as shine, soft and natural feel and / or ease of application and distribution on the hair without dripping.
[0009] Thus, there is a need to provide a stable composition which is easily applied and distributed on keratin fibers and which makes it possible to give them cosmetic properties such as softness to the touch (a natural feel, the hair is no longer rough), smoothing, shine, suppleness, lightness, detangling properties making it easy to comb, and good discipline of the hair which thus has good shaping.
[0010] The applicant has thus surprisingly discovered that the combination of at least one solid fatty alcohol, at least one cationic surfactant, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one non-ionic polysaccharide and at least one cationic polymer makes it possible to meet these needs.
[0011] Thus, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) one or more solid fatty alcohols, (b) one or more cationic surfactants, (c) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (d) one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, and (e) one or more cationic polymers, the cosmetic composition having a content of anionic surfactant(s) less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0012] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is stable and easy to use. In particular, it is distributed homogeneously on the keratin fibers with a certain slip.
[0013] By "stable" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, that the composition does not change or changes little (for example its visual appearance, its viscosity, its pH) during a storage period, in particular 2 months at 45°C.
[0014] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to confer good cosmeticity, for example good smoothing, high shine, softness to the touch (a natural feel, the hair is no longer rough), suppleness, to keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, such as hair, as well as an excellent coating which is homogeneous over the entire length of the keratin fibers.
[0015] The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular for the care of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying the cosmetic composition according to the invention to said fibres.
[0016] Another object of the invention is the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0017] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.
[0018] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0019] The expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0020] Solid fatty alcohol(s) (a) The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more solid fatty alcohols.
[0021] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0022] By “solid fatty alcohol” is meant a fatty alcohol having a melting point above 30°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0023] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0024] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure: R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0025] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monoalcohols, preferably linear and saturated, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Better still, the solid fatty alcohols that can be used are chosen from linear and saturated monoalcohols, containing from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0026] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used alone or in a mixture can be chosen from: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); ara- chidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0027] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol(s) is(are) chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0028] Preferably, the total amount of solid fatty alcohol(s) (a) ranges from 0.5 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 12% by weight, better still from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0029] Preferably, the total quantity of solid fatty alcohol(s) chosen from linear and saturated monoalcohols, comprising from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, (a) ranges from 0.5 to 15%, even better 1 to 12%, even better 3 to 10% by weight.
[0030] Cationic surfactant(s) (b) The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants.
[0031] The term "cationic surfactant" means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in the compositions according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the compositions according to the invention.
[0032] The cationic surfactants are advantageously chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0033] As quaternary ammonium salts, we can notably cite:
[0034] quaternary ammonium salts of formula (Ia): (you) in which: the groups R8 to Ru, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Ru comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; and X is a union notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates.
[0035] The aliphatic groups R8 to Ru may be chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30 alkylamide, C1-C22 alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, C1-C22 alkylacetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.
[0036] Mention may in particular be made of halides, in particular chlorides, of tetraalkylammonium such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides.
[0037] Mention may also be made of halides, and in particular chlorides, of palmitylami-dopropyltrimethylammonium or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium; in particular the product marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.
[0038] the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (IIa): +• ^3 | zK CO“™Rs. X \ ? \ î \...........j Ru | in which: R[2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Ri4 represents a CrC4 alkyl group, Ris represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion, in particular chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates or alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonates.
[0039] Preferably, Rn and Rn denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R[4 denotes a methyl group, R[5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik.
[0040] the quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula (Ilia): in which: - Rie denotes an alkyl group containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, - Rn denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), R16a, Rna, R18a, identical or different, denoting hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, - Ri8, R19, R2o and R2i, identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and - X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(CrC4)arylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.
[0041] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) offered by the company FINETEX.
[0042] quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of the following formula (IVa): --FU o .1--. r^c^o-----cph2(oh)^^ —c>4rR^ x (te) in which: - R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups, - R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27; and the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29; and the hydrogen atom, - R24 R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, - rl and tl, identical or different, are worth 0 or 1, - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, - x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, - X is an anion, it being understood that r2 + rl = 2r and tl + t2 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, provided that when x = 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z = 0 then R25 denotes R29.
[0043] The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
[0044] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.
[0045] When R23 is a hydrocarbon group R27, it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or else comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0046] When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0047] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0048] Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.
[0049] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
[0050] Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
[0051] The anion X is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, a (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonate or a (CrC4)alkylarylsulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate or any other anion compatible with ester-functional ammonium. The anion X- is more particularly a chloride, a methylsulfate or an ethylsulfate.
[0052] More particularly, the ammonium salts of formula (IVa) are used in the composition according to the invention, in which: - R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, - x and y are equal to 1, - z is equal to 0 or 1, - r, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon groups in C14-C22> the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0053] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
[0054] Among the compounds of formula (IVa) there may be mentioned salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.
[0055] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, on fatty acids, or on mixtures of fatty acids, in particular of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification may be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company Evonik.
[0056] The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
[0057] Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
[0058] As fatty amines, amidoamines may be mentioned. The amidoamines according to the invention can be chosen from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be carried by the amine group or by the amido group.
[0059] Amidoamine means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
[0060] Fatty amidoamine is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.
[0061] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
[0062] Among the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of the following formula (Va): RCONHR”N(R')2(Va) in which: - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical; - R' ' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.
[0063] The fatty amidoamines of formula (Va) are, for example, chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine marketed by the company INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, laura-midopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenami-dopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesami-dopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
[0064] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
[0065] Preferably, the cationic surfactants (b) are chosen from those of formula (Ia), (IVa) or (Va), better still from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; better still from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, ammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly among behenyltrimethyl-ammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate and mixtures thereof.
[0066] The total amount of the cationic surfactant(s) (b) present in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 9% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0067] The total amount of the cationic surfactant(s) chosen from those of formula (Ia), (IVa) or (Va), and better still from those of formula (Ia), present in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 9% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0068] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (c) The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
[0069] In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention, may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0070] Mention may in particular be made of alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(Ci-C6)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)-amidalkyl(Ci-C6)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.
[0071] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of the following respective structures (Xa) and (Xla):
[0072] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (Xa) formula (Xa), in which: - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably Ra represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;
[0073] Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (Xla) formula (Xla), in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2 -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra' represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an Ra'-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably Ra' an alkyl group, in particular Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.
[0074] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoampho-dipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylampho-propionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodi-propionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0075] As an example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
[0076] It is also possible to use compounds of formula (Xlla): Ra”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (Xlla) formula (Xlla), in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra” represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an Ra”-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; and - n and n', independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
[0077] Among the compounds of formula (Xlla) we can cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.
[0078] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.
[0079] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, advantageously used are alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; preferably alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof; and better still alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.
[0080] Preferably, the total amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (c) is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 1.5% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 2% by weight, even better still greater than or equal to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0081] The composition according to the invention comprises a total quantity of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (c) which preferably ranges from 0.5 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 12% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 6% by weight, or even from 2.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0082] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a total amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof, which preferably ranges from 0.5 to 15% by weight, better still 1 to 12%, more preferably from 1.5 to 10% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, or even from 2.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0083] Non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-ionic polysaccharides.
[0084] According to the invention, the polysaccharides are also called polymers with sugar units.
[0085] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “sugar unit” means an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound which has several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.
[0086] The sugar units can optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.
[0087] The sugar units of the non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; and fructose.
[0088] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides, associative non-ionic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.
[0089] As non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides, we can notably cite native gums such as: (a) exudates from trees or shrubs; b) gums derived from algae including: - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); (c) gums from seeds or tubers of which: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); (d) microbial gums including: - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); e) plant extracts including: - cellulose (glucose polymer); - starch (polymer of glucose) and - inulin.
[0090] These polysaccharides can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, temperature can be mentioned in particular.
[0091] Chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments also make it possible to obtain non-ionic polymers.
[0092] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.
[0093] The non-ionic guar gums that can be used according to the invention can be modified by C1 to C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.
[0094] Among the (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups in C1 to C6, mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0095] These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.
[0096] The hydroxyalkylation rate preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
[0097] Such non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60, JAGUAR HP105 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
[0098] The starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch such as corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, peas or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.
[0099] Starches can be modified chemically or physically: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.
[0100] The non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides of the invention may be cellulosic polymers not comprising a C10 to C30 fatty chain in their structure.
[0101] According to the invention, the term “cellulosic” polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.
[0102] Thus, the cellulose polymers which can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.
[0103] Among these cellulose polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.
[0104] Among the cellulose esters, there are inorganic cellulose esters (nitrates, sulfates or phosphates of cellulose, etc.), organic cellulose esters (monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates of cellulose, etc.) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyratesulfates and acetatepropionatesulfates. Among the cellulose ether esters, there are hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
[0105] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain in C8 to C30, i.e. “non-associative”, mention may be made of (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl-(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (e.g. Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses (e.g. Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.
[0106] The non-associative non-ionic polysaccharide(s) may advantageously be chosen from non-ionic guar gums such as those modified by C1 to C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, non-ionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain C8 to C30 and mixtures thereof, more preferably from hydroxypropylated guar gums, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses and mixtures thereof.
[0107] As non-ionic polysaccharides which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of associative non-ionic polysaccharides.
[0108] It is recalled that “associative polymers” are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0109] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
[0110] By “hydrophobic group” is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0111] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group originates from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may originate from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It may also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.
[0112] The associative polysaccharides which can be used according to the invention can be chosen from non-ionic associative polysaccharides, preferably from non-ionic associative celluloses and non-ionic associative galactomannan gums.
[0113] Preferably, the associative non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from: (1) celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain; preferably from: - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8 to C22, such as cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose marketed in particular under the reference NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Ashland, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by the company Ashland, - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol ether groups alkyl phenol, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) ether of nonyl phenol) sold by the company AMERCHOL, - and their mixtures; (2) hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18 (CM alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C2o alkyl chain) sold by the company RHODIA.
[0114] The associative non-ionic polysaccharides may advantageously be chosen from celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8 to C22-
[0115] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) are chosen from non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides, and more particularly from non-ionic guar gums such as those modified by C1 to C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, non-ionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain in C8 to C30, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylated guar gums, hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof; and better still from hydroxypropylated guar gums, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) are chosen from hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylated guar gums such as hydroxypropylated guar gums.
[0116] Preferably, the total amount of non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) present in the composition according to the invention is from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.2 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0117] Preferably, the total amount of non-ionic (non-associative) polysaccharide(s) present in the composition according to the invention is from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0118] Preferably, the total amount of non-ionic polysaccharide(s) chosen from non-ionic guar gums such as those modified by C1 to C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C8 to C30 fatty chain, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylated guar gums, hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof; present in the composition according to the invention is from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight. weight, better from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0119] Cationic polymer(s) (e) The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more cationic polymers.
[0120] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are hydrophilic or amphiphilic.
[0121] Cationic polymers are not silicone-based (do not include a Si-O unit).
[0122] Preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which may either be part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a side substituent directly linked to it.
[0123] Preferably, the cationic polymers (e) do not comprise an anionic group or a group ionizable into anionic groups.
[0124] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5.106 approximately, preferably of between 103 and 3.106 approximately.
[0125] Preferably the cationic polymers (e) have a charge density of less than 4 meq / g, better still less than 3.5 meq / g, even more preferably ranging from 1 to 3.4 meq / g.
[0126] The charge density can be determined according to the Kjedahl method. It is generally measured at a pH of the order of 3 to 9.
[0127] Among the cationic polymers, we can cite more particularly:
[0128] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylic and comprising at least one of the units of the following formula: R;. R. ....... OC oc OO At x* ; HAS NR*—N+™Rg R. R^ Rç Rs 9s ........GHr-Ç— CHoÇ — O”Ç ^ :s: 9 NH 4H X” At 4 NR,—N-— R, R< Rs formulas in which: - R1 and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; - R3, identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R5 and R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
[0129] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
[0130] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can cite: - copolymers of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES, - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QU AT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES, - vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or the products called "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP; - vinylpyrrolidone / quatemized dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP, - polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Ci-C4)trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium salts such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA.A crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride (polyquatemium-37) comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used. These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.
[0131] (2) Cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and ga- cationic lactomannans. Among the cationic polysaccharides, we can cite more particularly cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0132] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group. Mention may in particular be made of polyquaternium-10.
[0133] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium. The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.
[0134] Among the cationic cellulose derivatives, it is also possible to use cationic associative celluloses, which can be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl, preferably linear or branched alkyl, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
[0135] Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl, preferably linear or branched alkyl, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
[0136] Preferably, mention may be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VI): in which: - R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q in which Ra, Rb, and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl, C1 to C30, preferably an alkyl, and Q represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; - R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q' in which R'a, R'b, and R'c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl, C1 to C30, preferably an alkyl, and Q' represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear or branched alkyl, C8 to C30; - n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10,000.
[0137] Preferably, in formula (VI), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear or branched alkyl, C8 to C30; better still Cm to C24, or even Cm to CM; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (Ci2). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched alkyl, C1 to C4, in particular methyl.
[0138] Preferably, in formula (VI), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear or branched alkyl, C8 to C30; better still Cm to C24, or even Cm to Cu; in particular, mention may be made of the dodecyl radical (Ci2). Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched alkyl, C1 to C4, in particular methyl.
[0139] Even better, R may be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q' and -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q', preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'.
[0140] Even better, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'.
[0141] The aryl radicals preferably denote the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
[0142] We can notably cite the polymers with INCI names: - Polyquatemium-24, such as the product QUATRISOFT LM 200®, marketed by the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL; - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®; - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (Ci2 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QL® and - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C[8] alkyl) such as the product CRODACEL QS®, marketed by the company CRODA.
[0143] Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VI) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride Cl ,(CH3)3N+- and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl ,(CH3)2(C12H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Poly-quatemium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL.
[0144] More particularly, the polymers of formula (VI) are, for example, those whose viscosity is inclusively between 2 and 3 Pa.s (between 2000 and 3000 cPs), preferably between 2.7 and 2.8 Pa.s (between 2700 and 2800 cPs). Typically, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2.5 Pa.s (2500 cPs), SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2.7 Pa.s (2700 cPs) and SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2.8 Pa.s (2800 cPs). SOFTCAT POLYMER SX-1300X with a viscosity between 1 and 2 Pa.s (1000 and 2000 cPs) can also be used.
[0145] Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and US 4,031,307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed in particular under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR Cl62 by the company RHODIA.
[0146] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene radicals or hydroxyalkylene with linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.
[0147] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycon densification of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epi- lohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.
[0148] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylenes polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents. Examples include adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.
[0149] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylene-triamine copolymer.
[0150] (7) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising as the main constituent of the chain units corresponding to formulas (VII) or (VIII): (CH,)kz(CH,)k 4CH,M----QR^ C(Rt2>CH2- --ÇR.n H2C HX. ch2 (VII) y. H formulas (VII) and (VIII), in which: - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; - Rn denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; - Rio and Rn, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C1 to C4 amidoalkyl group; or R10 and Ru may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and Ru, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.
[0151] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium, such as polyquaternium-6, for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO (and their homologues of low weight-average molar masses) and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide, such as polyquaternium-7, sold in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".
[0152] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula (IX): formula (IX), in which: - Rn, Ru, Rb and Ri6, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or Rn, RM, R[5 and R[6, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or Rn, Ru, Ris and Ri6 represent a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-Rp-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group where R 17 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group; - Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Ab Rn and Ri5 can form with the two nitrogen atoms
[0153]
[0154] to which they are attached a piperazine cycle; furthermore, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi can also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)n- in which D denotes: (a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2 -CH2-O)X-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; (b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-; Or d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-. Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000. We can cite more particularly polymers which are made up of recurring units corresponding to the formula (X):
[0155]
[0156] formula (X) in which R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are whole numbers varying from 2 to 20 approximately and, X is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. A particularly preferred compound of formula (X) is that for which RB R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA). (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (XI): formula (XI), in which: - Ri8, R19, R20 and R2i, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or CH2CH2(OCH 2CH2)POH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, provided that Ri8, R19, R20 and R2[ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, - r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34, - X denotes an anion such as a halide, and - A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2 -CH2-,
[0157] Examples include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.
[0158] (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as example the products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF
[0159] (11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name of "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.
[0160] (12) polymers comprising in their structure: (a) one or more units corresponding to the following formula (XII): --CHr~GH------------- (XII) MH.
[0161] (b) optionally one or more patterns corresponding to the following formula (XIII): ------CIL -CH............ (XIII) HN—C“HO
[0162] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
[0163] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (XII) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (XIII), preferably from 10 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (XII) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (XIII).
[0164] These polymers can be obtained for example by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in an acidic or basic medium.
[0165] The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, may vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.
[0166] The cationic charge density of these polymers can vary from 2 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq / g.
[0167] The polymers comprising units of formula (XII) and optionally units of formula (XIII) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by the company BASF, such as, for example, and in a non-limiting manner, the products offered under the names LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.
[0168] Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) (e) are chosen from polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Ci-C4) trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium salts (family (1)), cationic polysaccharides (family (2)), and mixtures thereof.
[0169] More preferably, the cationic polymers (e) are chosen from polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Ci-C4)trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium salts, cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; better still from a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride copolymer, a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride (polyquaternium-37), cationic celluloses such as polyquaternium-10 and polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof.
[0170] Better still, the cationic polymer(s) (e) are chosen from polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof.
[0171] The total quantity of the cationic polymer(s) (e), present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, is preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably ranges from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0172] Preferably, the total amount of the cationic polymer(s) chosen from polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Ci-C4)trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium salts (family (1)), cationic polysaccharides (family (2)), and mixtures thereof, is greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0173] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may contain one or more anionic surfactant(s). However, their total content is less than or equal to 2% by weight, better still less than or equal to 1% by weight, even better still less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0174] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant containing only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These groups anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -CO2H, -CO2, -SO3H, -SO3, -OSO3H, -OSO3, -H2PO3, -HPO3, -PO32, -H2PO2, -HPO2, -PO?, -POH, -PO.
[0175] Examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition include alkyl sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylsethionates and N-acyltaurates, N-acyl glycinates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids; and the corresponding unsalified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.
[0176] When the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
[0177] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain anionic surfactants. In other words, it comprises 0% by weight of anionic surfactants relative to its total weight.
[0178] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional non-silicone fatty substances, other than solid fatty alcohols, one or more silicones, or one of their mixtures.
[0179] Additional non-silicone fatty body(ies) The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additional non-silicone fatty substances, other than solid fatty alcohols.
[0180] By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), vaseline oil or decamethyl-cyclopentasiloxane.
[0181] The additional fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0182] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds.
[0183] The additional non-silicone fatty substances useful according to the invention may be chosen from liquid fatty substances (or oils), solid fatty substances and mixtures thereof. Liquid fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 30°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa). Solid fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0184] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0185] More particularly, the additional non-silicone fatty body(ies), other than solid fatty alcohols, which can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, can be chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0186] It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 40, better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0187] As regards the liquid C6 to C16 hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0188] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0189] As hydrocarbon oils (or non-silicone oils) of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.
[0190] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, coconut, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0191] As regards the fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from per-fluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PCI” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the company Atochem; no-nafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by 3M Company.
[0192] The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned are octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.
[0193] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono alcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 8, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0194] Preferably, for liquid esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or the acid is branched.
[0195] Among the liquid monoesters, we can cite dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0196] Preferably among the monoesters of C 1 -C 26 monoacids and C 1 -C 26 monoalcohols, the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 6, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0197] It is also possible to use esters of C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 monoalcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.
[0198] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoylstearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisocyanate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0199] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C[2 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides different from the anionic polysaccharides described below.
[0200] Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, particularly alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.
[0201] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0202] The esters can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0203] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.
[0204] More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0205] An example of this is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0206] The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.
[0207] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
[0208] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0209] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols.
[0210] Mention may in particular be made of cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n- adipate propyl, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof
[0211] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.
[0212] Preferably, the additional non-silicone fatty substance(s) other than solid fatty alcohols are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, of mineral origin, liquid fatty alcohols, in particular branched, triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, preferably from paraffin or vaseline oils, liquid fatty alcohols, in particular branched, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, or isostearyl alcohol, triglyceride oils of vegetable origin such as coconut oil, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, paraffin or vaseline oils, coconut oil or a mixture thereof will be used.
[0213] When it(they) is(are) present, the total quantity of the additional non-silicone fatty body(ies) other than solid fatty alcohols preferably varies from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0214] Silicone(s) The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more silicones.
[0215] The silicones that can be used can be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.
[0216] Silicones are notably described in detail in the work of Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.
[0217] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), more particularly from:
[0218] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as
[0219] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0220] We can cite the products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE
[0221]
[0222]
[0223]
[0224]
[0225]
[0226]
[0227]
[0228] SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA. - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type with chemical structure: CH. -If —o — CH,- marketed by the company withD: O asecOH I CH, We can mention the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" UNION CARBIDE. - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl-pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.106 m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane. Other silicones in this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; we can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE. Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as organo-polysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amine groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated groups. The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes. Among the organomodified silicones, we can cite organopolysiloxanes comprising: - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from the company UNION CARBIDE; or the alkyl(C12)-methicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200; - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; we can cite the products marketed under the name GP4 Silicone Fluid and GP7100 by the company GENESEE, or under the names Q2-8220 and DC929 or DC939 by the company DOW CORNING; - thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE; - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; - hydroxyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with hydroxyalkyl function; - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732. - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255". - hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in application EP342834; we can cite, for example, the product Q2-8413 from the company DOW CORNING.
[0229] The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products: - SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000; - MIRASIL® series oils marketed by RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 200 series oils such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.
[0230] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as oils of the series 48 of the RHODIA company.
[0231] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also cite the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.
[0232] Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
[0233] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING.
[0234] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.10-5 to 5.10-2m2 / s at 25°C.
[0235] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can cite the products marketed under the following names:
[0236] - SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA;
[0237] - oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;
[0238] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;
[0239] - BAYER PK series silicones such as the product PK20;
[0240] - silicones of the PN, PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH 1000 products
[0241] - certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
[0242] The silicones that can be used may be amino silicones. Amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
[0243] The weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are p styragel columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 μl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is done by refractometry and UVmetry.
[0244] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) capable of being used in the context of the invention are chosen from:
[0245] a) polysiloxanes corresponding to the formula (A): in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between about 5,000 and 500,000;
[0246] b) amino silicones corresponding to formula (B): R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3-a-R'a (B) in which: - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, OH, Cr-C8 alkyl, for example methyl, or Cr-C8 alkoxy, for example methoxy, group, - a, identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups: -N(R")2; -N+(R")3 A-; -NR"-QN(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A, in which R", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0247] Preferably, the amino silicones are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B). Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to the following formulas (C), (D), (E), (F), and / or (G).
[0248] Thus, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) can be chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
[0249] b-1 / silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" corresponding to the formula (C): in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.
[0250] b-2 / silicones of the following formula (D): in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n being able to designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; - Rb R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 designating an alkoxy radical.
[0251] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0252] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
[0253] The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3500 to 200,000.
[0254] b-3 / the following silicones of formula (E): in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p being able to designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q being able to designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; - Ri, R2, different, represent a C1-C4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designating an alkoxy radical.
[0255] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0256] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
[0257] The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 and even more particularly from 5000 to 100000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.
[0258] Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (D) or (E).
[0259] A product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652.
[0260] A product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®.
[0261] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but preferably cationic and / or non-ionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (E), microemulsions are used whose number-average size particles range from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nanometers (inclusive). Thus, according to the invention, the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER can be used.
[0262] b-4 / silicones of the following formula (F): in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
[0263] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200,000.
[0264] A silicone corresponding to this formula is for example XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING.
[0265] b-5 / silicones of the following formula (G): in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in par- particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
[0266] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.
[0267] A silicone corresponding to this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.
[0268] c) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (H): (H) in which: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8; - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.
[0269] Such amino silicones are notably described in US patent 4,185,087.
[0270] - d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I): R. HAS' i in which: - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a cycle comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example
[0271]
[0272] methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a Ci-Cig alkylene radical or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a CrCi8 alkyl radical, a C2-Ci8 alkenyl radical, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical; - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974. e) amino silicones of formula (J):
[0273]
[0274] in which: - R1, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g. f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group. Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -R'-N(H)-R-] or else [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R' - O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000; - R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; - R, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-C12 divalent hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2 CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially R denotes a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2 radical - R', identical or different, represent a divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2 CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.
[0275] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85 mol%.
[0276] The amine level is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% by weight solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2 meq / g.
[0277] The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000, more particularly between 10000 and 200000.
[0278] Mention may in particular be made of the silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.
[0279] g) and mixtures thereof.
[0280] The silicone(s) are preferably chosen from amino silicones, better still from amino silicones of formula (A), (D), (E), (F), (G) above, and mixtures thereof.
[0281] Advantageously, when the silicone(s) are present, their total quantity ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0282] Better still, the amino silicones may be present in the composition in a total amount preferably ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.8 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0283] The composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous. The amount of water is preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight, better still from 60 to 98% by weight, better still from 65 to 90% by weight, and even more preferably from 70 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0284] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 2.5 to 8.5, preferably mainly from 3 to 8, and better from 4 to 7.5.
[0285] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from linear or branched C2 to C4 monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, and aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol.
[0286] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additives chosen from non-ionic surfactants; UV filters; fillers such as nacres, titanium dioxide, resins and clays; perfumes; peptizers; vitamins; and preservatives.
[0287] A person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additives and their quantity so that they do not harm the properties of the composition of the present invention.
[0288] These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0289] The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular for the care of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said fibers a composition as described above.
[0290] The composition can be applied directly to damp or dry hair, preferably to damp hair.
[0291] This step of applying the composition according to the invention may optionally be preceded by at least one step of washing said fibers using a shampoo.
[0292] The step of applying the composition according to the invention may optionally be followed by a rinsing step. Preferably, the step of applying the composition according to the invention is followed by a rinsing step.
[0293] Furthermore, this step of applying the composition according to the invention may optionally be followed by a drying step.
[0294] The present invention also relates to a use of the composition as described above, for the cosmetic treatment, in particular the care and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers.
[0295] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is used as a hair conditioner, in particular as a hair mask.
[0296] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples
[0297] Compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 below. The quantities indicated in the table are expressed in % by weight of active material (% MA) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0298] [Tables 1] Composition A Cetearyl alcohol 7 Behentrimonium chloride 3.2 Cocamidopropyl betaine 3.8 Hydroxypropyl guar 0.7 Polyquatemium-37 0.4 Coconut oil (Cocos Nucifera oil) 0.1 Amodimethicone 1 Isopropyl alcohol 0.7 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 Propylene glycol 2 Preservatives qs Sodium chloride 0.7 Water qs 100
[0299] Composition A is stable during storage. In particular, no phase shift was observed after storage for 60 days at 45°C.
[0300] It has a thickened texture which prevents the risk of dripping on the face and allows easy and regular application from the roots to the tips of the hair.
[0301] Composition A was applied to damp hair, previously washed using a standard shampoo. Composition A was easily distributed over the keratin fibers.
[0302] It was then left to sit for a few minutes, then rinsed.
[0303] After drying the hair, it was found that the hair was particularly shiny, soft and supple.
Claims
Claims
1. Cosmetic composition comprising (a) one or more solid fatty alcohols, (b) one or more cationic surfactants, (c) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (d) one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, and (e) one or more cationic polymers, the composition having a total content of anionic surfactant(s) less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the solid fatty alcohol(s) (a) are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monoalcohols, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total quantity of solid fatty alcohol(s) (a) ranges from 0.5 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 12% by weight, better still from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) (b) are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof; and more particularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate and mixtures thereof.
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of cationic surfactant(s) (b) ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 9% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (c) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.
7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (c) is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 1.5% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (c) ranges from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 12% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 10% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) are chosen from non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides, and more particularly from non-ionic guar gums such as those modified by C1 to C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, non-ionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain C8 to C30, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylated guar gums, hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof; and better still from hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylated guar gums such as hydroxypropylated guar gums.
10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) is from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) (e) are chosen from polymers, preferably crosslinked, of metha-cryloyloxyalkyl(CrC4) trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium salts, cationic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof, and better still from polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof.
12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of the polymer(s) cationic(s) (e) is greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably ranges from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition does not comprise anionic surfactants.
14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more additional non-silicone fatty substances other than solid fatty alcohols, one or more silicones, or one of their mixtures.
15. Process for cosmetic treatment, in particular care, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of application to said fibers of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.
16. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, for the cosmetic treatment, in particular the care, of keratin fibers.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Carboxyl group-containing siloxane compounds
EP0186507A2
Treatment of fibrous materials
EP0342834A2
Hair care composition
EP0530974A1
novel cellulosic ethers containing quaternary nitrogen
FR1492597A
Tension-relieving device for stretchable sheet material
US3589578A