COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR KERATIN FIBERS

Abstract

The present invention relates principally to a composition for keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and associated mixtures; (b) at least one compound, different from the compound of point (a), selected from the group consisting of keto acids, associated salts, and associated mixtures; and (c) at least one fatty amine. The present invention can improve the smoothing of keratin fibers such as hair by heating the keratin fibers with glyoxylic acid or an associated derivative, providing more durable remodeling effects. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION ADAPTED TO KERATIN FIBERS Technical field

[0001] The present invention mainly relates to a composition which is suitable for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratin fibers such as hair. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Straightening keratin fibers such as hair by heating the keratin fibers with a straightening iron is common practice to tame unruly keratin fibers and reduce volume as well as improve the appearance of the keratin fibers. Such a straightening method using a heated straightening iron is convenient for quick styling, but the hairstyle only lasts for a short time, for example until the next shampoo. Many consumers need a long-lasting straightening method.

[0003] Furthermore, conventional permanent straightening methods using a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, as well as an oxidizing agent, with heating, can provide keratin fibers with long-lasting styling, but they have several disadvantages such as a long processing time, damage to the keratin fibers and a bad odor.

[0004] Document WO 2014 / 131469 discloses a method for straightening keratin fibers by heating with a straightening iron, without the use of reducing and oxidizing agents, in which glyoxylic acid is used to straighten the keratin fibers.

[0005] US-A-2023 / 742 discloses a semi-permanent hair straightening composition including 15% to 20% by weight of glyoxylic acid and 0.1% to 5% by weight of levulinic acid. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0006] There remains a need to improve the remodeling of keratin fibers based on the treatment of keratin fibers with glyoxylic acid or an associated derivative.

[0007] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which is useful for remodeling keratin fibers such as hair, by heating the keratin fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, which can provide the keratin fibers with longer-lasting remodeling effects.

[0008] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition intended for keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; b. at least one compound, different from the compound of point (a), selected from the group consisting of keto acids, associated salts and associated mixtures; and c. at least one fatty amine.

[0009] The amount of compound(s) of point (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 14% by weight, and more preferably less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0010] The compound of point (b) may be chosen from levulinic acid, an associated salt and an associated mixture.

[0011] The quantity of compound(s) of point (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight and, more preferably, less than or equal to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] The fatty amine of point (c) may be selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and a mixture thereof.

[0013] The amount of fatty amine(s) of point (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) water.

[0015] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one oil.

[0016] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol.

[0017] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6 and more preferably less than or equal to 5.

[0018] The composition according to the present invention may not comprise ammonia or a thiol compound, or may comprise less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of ammonia or a thiol compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The composition according to the present invention may not comprise a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, or may comprise less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The composition according to the present invention may be intended for remodeling, preferably for smoothing keratin fibers such as hair.

[0021] The present invention also relates to a process for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of: i. applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers ii. possibly rinse the keratin fibers with or without drying the fibers keratin after rinsing; and iii. reshaping, preferably smoothing, the keratin fibers, preferably at a temperature above 50°C, more preferably above 100°C, and even more preferably above 150°C.

[0022] The present invention also relates to a kit for remodeling, preferably for smoothing, keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0023] at least one appliance selected from the group consisting of a hair straightener, a curling iron, a comb, a hair dryer and an associated combination, preferably at least one heated hair straightener, a heated curling iron, a heated comb or a heated hair dryer which makes it possible to provide the keratin fibers with a temperature greater than 50°C, preferably greater than 100°C and, more preferably, greater than 150°C; and

[0024] the composition according to the present invention. Best mode for carrying out the invention

[0025] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition which is useful for remodeling keratin fibers such as hair, by treating the keratin fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, and which can provide the keratin fibers with longer-lasting remodeling effects.

[0026] Thus, the present invention mainly relates to a composition for keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; a. at least one compound, different from the compound of point (a), selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, associated salts and associated mixtures; and b. at least one fatty amine.

[0027] The present invention can improve the remodeling of keratin fibers such as hair by treating the keratin fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, providing longer lasting remodeling effects.

[0028] The remodeling of keratin fibers, such as hair, here includes the straightening or curling of keratin fibers.

[0029] The present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with longer-lasting remodeling effects. Thus, the present invention can lengthen or prolong the remodeling effects for keratin fibers provided by the use of a composition comprising only glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the straightened or curled shape of the keratin fibers, or can prevent or reduce the loss of straight or curled shape of the keratin fibers over time.

[0030] For example, if the keratin fibers are originally wavy, the present invention may provide better prevention against the keratin fibers returning to their original wavy shape, after straightening the keratin fibers, particularly after shampooing.

[0031] The present invention can also provide keratin fibers with sufficient immediate remodeling effects. For example, keratin fibers treated with the present invention to make them smooth may have less volume or less frizz due to the reduction of curls of the keratin fibers. The remodeling effects provided by the present invention can last for a long time, for example, even after shampooing the keratin fibers. Thus, the present invention can also provide good shampoo resistance to the shape of the keratin fibers.

[0032] The present invention can cause less damage to keratin fibers compared to conventional permanent remodeling methods, because the present invention does not need to use reducing / oxidizing agents. Therefore, it can be easy to comb the keratin fibers treated by the present invention. Thus, the keratin fibers treated by the present invention can be easy to discipline. Also, the keratin fibers treated by the present invention can be stronger than those treated by conventional permanent remodeling technologies.

[0033] Furthermore, the present invention can use little or no ammonia or thiol compound, and therefore, the odor during the use of the present invention can be reduced compared to conventional methods that require the use of ammonia or a thiol compound. In addition, the present invention can have good ease of use, for example, a short processing time.

[0034] The present invention will now be described in detail. [Composition]

[0035] The composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; a. at least one compound, different from the compound of point (a), selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, associated salts and associated mixtures; and b. at least one fatty amine.

[0036] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for remodeling keratin fibers, and even more preferably a cosmetic composition for remodeling keratin fibers in a single step. It is particularly preferable that the keratin fibers are hair.

[0037] (Glyoxylic acid and related derivatives)

[0038] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Only one type of compound of point (a) may be used, but two or more different types of compounds of point (a) may be used in combination.

[0040] The compound of point (a) is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof. In other words, the compound of point (a) is selected from glyoxylic acid and related derivatives.

[0041] Examples of glyoxylic acid solvates that may be mentioned include glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.

[0042] Examples of salts of glyoxylic acid that may be mentioned are alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate, and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.

[0043] As glyoxylic acid esters, mention may be made, for example, of al- esters glyoxylic acid alkyls such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.

[0044] As glyoxylic acid amides, mention may be made, for example, of N- glyoxyloylcarbocysteine ​​and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acids.

[0045] It is preferable to use glyoxylic acid as the compound of point (a).

[0046] The quantity of compound(s) of point (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] The amount of compound(s) of point (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 14% by weight, and more preferably less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] Thus, the amount of compound(s) of point (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to less than 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to less than 14% by weight and more preferably from 1% to less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] In one embodiment, the amount of compound(s) of point (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 11% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Thus, in this embodiment, the amount of compound(s) of point (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 11% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [0051 ] ( Ketoacid )

[0052] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from ketoacids, associated salts and associated mixtures. Two or more compounds of point (b) can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of the compound of point (b) or a combination of different types of compounds of point (b) can be used.

[0053] The keto acids may be chosen from α-keto acids, β-keto acids, γ-keto acids and mixtures thereof.

[0054] The α-keto acids may be compounds represented by the general formula (I):

[0055] R'-C(=O)-COOH (I)

[0056] in which • R1 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as chlorine or bromine.

[0057] Examples of α-keto acids include pyruvic acid.

[0058] The [3-keto acids] can be represented by the general formula (II):

[0059] R2-C(=O)-R3-COOH (II)

[0060] in which • R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as chlorine or bromine; and • R3 denotes a methylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0061] Examples of [3-keto acids] include acetoacetic acid.

[0062] γ-keto acids can be represented by the general formula (III):

[0063] R2-C(=O)-R4-COOH (III)

[0064] in which • R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as chlorine or bromine; and • R4 denotes an ethylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0065] Examples of γ-ketoacids include levulinic acid.

[0066] The ketoacid salts may be alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of ketoacid such as sodium or potassium salts of ketoacid, and magnesium or calcium salts of ketoacid.

[0067] It is preferable to use, as compound(s) of point (b), γ-ketoacid, and more preferably levulinic acid and / or an associated salt such as sodium levulinate.

[0068] The quantity of compound(s) of point (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight and, more preferably, greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] The quantity of compound(s) of point (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight and, more preferably less than or equal to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] The amount of compound(s) of point (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight and, more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] Furthermore, the quantity of compound(s) of point (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 4% by weight and, more preferably less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] Thus, in this embodiment, the amount of compound(s) of point (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] In another embodiment, the compound(s) of point (b) may be present in a lower amount than the compound(s) of point (a), in the composition according to the present invention. For example, the weight ratio of the amount of compound(s) of point (a) to the amount of compound(s) of point (b) included in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1:1 to 15:1, preferably from 1:1 to 10:1, and more preferably from 1:1 to 4:1.

[0074] (Fatty amine)

[0075] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one fatty amine. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty amine or a combination of different types of fatty amines may be used.

[0076] By the term "fatty amines" is meant primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or salts thereof. Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not quaternized. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0077] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one fatty amine comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0078] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one fatty amine chosen from tertiary fatty amines.

[0079] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more tertiary fatty amines chosen from fatty amidoamines.

[0080] The fatty amine of point (c) which can be used in the context of the present invention can be chosen from fatty amines having the formula (IV) below:

[0081] RN(R')2(IV)

[0082] in which: • R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular a C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted alkyl radical, preferably a C6-C30, better still C8-C24, linear or branched alkyl radical, or a C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched alkenyl radical; and • R', which may be the same or different, represent a hy- radical monovalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted carbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0083] The fatty amine of point (c) corresponding to formula (IV) above may be chosen, for example, from dimethyllauramine, dimethylbehenamine, dimethylcocamine, dimethylmyristamine, dimethylpalmitamine, dimethylstearamine, dimethyltallowamine, dimethylsoyamine and associated mixtures.

[0084] The fatty amine of point (c) which can be used in the context of the present invention can also be chosen from fatty amidoamines, preferably fatty amidoamines having the formula (V) below:

[0085] R-CO-N(H)-R”-N(R')2 (V)

[0086] in which: • R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and, in particular, a C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted alkyl radical, a C5-C29, better still C5-C23, linear or branched alkyl radical, or a C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched alkenyl radical; • R', which can be the same or different, represent a hy radical divalent carbon containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms; and • R', which can be the same or different, represent a hy radical monovalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted carbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0087] The fatty amine of point (c) corresponding to formula (V) above may be chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine marketed by the company Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmita-midopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] Preferably, the fatty amine of point (c) may be chosen from amidoamines fatty, preferably among the fatty amidoamines of formula (V) above.

[0089] It is preferable that the fatty amine (c) is selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and a mixture thereof.

[0090] The chemical structure of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine can be represented by the formula (VI) below: H | (VI) Oh

[0091] in which • R denotes a Cn alkyl group for stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0092] Thus, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one fatty amine selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and a mixture thereof.

[0093] The quantity of fatty amine(s) of point (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] Furthermore, the quantity of fatty amine(s) of point (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight and, more preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] Thus, the amount of fatty amine(s) of point (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] (Water)

[0097] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) water.

[0098] Thus, if the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water, the com position according to the present invention is not anhydrous.

[0099] The quantity of water from point (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] Furthermore, the amount of water of point (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 95% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 90% by weight and more preferably less than or equal to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] The amount of water of point (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] (Oil)

[0103] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0104] Herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid, a paste or a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0105] The oil of point (e) may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as an oil of vegetable or animal origin and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0106] The oil of point (e) may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

[0107] Examples of oils of plant origin include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0109] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0110] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one component of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0111] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononanoate isononyl, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0112] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0113] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0114] As ester oils, esters and diesters of sugars of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates hydrocarbon compounds bearing oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0115] Examples of suitable sugars which may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and derivatives thereof, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0116] The fatty acid sugar esters may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30, and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0117] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and associated mixtures.

[0118] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or associated mixtures such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0119] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0120] An example that may be mentioned is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0121] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sar-cosinate, isononyl isononanoate, palmitate ethylhexyl, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0122] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0123] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0124] Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0125] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which may be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

[0126] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) by Walter Noll, Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0127] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

[0128] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and, preferably, 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane com- marketed in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and associated mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 marketed by Union Carbide, of formula: HD QH? È----------------------------------S i ! awc 0”: Si ~ Ô - with DU - SH O— CH.,

[0129] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0130] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 106 m2 / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

[0131] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0132] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils marketed by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • oils from the Mirasil® range marketed by the company Rhodia; • Dow Corning 200 range oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; • Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0133] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal groups dimethylsilanol known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0134] Among the silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples which may be cited include the products marketed under the following names: • Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia; • oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; • Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; • silicones from Bayer’s PK range, such as the PK20 product; • certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0135] Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0136] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: • lower C6-C16 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam^ and squalane.

[0137] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0138] It is preferable that the oil of point (e) is chosen from polar oils, more preferably ester oils, and even more preferably monoester oils.

[0139] The quantity of the oil(s) of point (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 3% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] Furthermore, the quantity of oil(s) from point (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 40% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 30% by weight and more preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] The amount of oil(s) of point (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Fatty alcohol]

[0142] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol. A single type of fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0143] The term "fatty" herein means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8, and more preferably at least 10, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. At least two fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0144] The fatty alcohol of point (f) may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C12-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may be substituted or not by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0145] As non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols of point (f), mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

[0146] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0147] Fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohols may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

[0148] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

[0149] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol of point (f) is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

[0150] The quantity of fatty alcohols of point (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] Furthermore, the quantity of fatty acids of point (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] The amount of fatty alcohols of point (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] (Non-ionic surfactant)

[0154] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one non-ionic surfactant. A single type of non-ionic surfactant may be used, or at least two different types of non-ionic surfactants may be used in combination.

[0155] Non-ionic surfactants are compounds well known per se (see, for example, in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178). Thus, they may, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and comprising at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, knowing that the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups may range from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups may range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.Mention may also be made, in a non-restrictive manner, of copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, for example 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; polyethoxylated fatty acid mono- or diesters of C6-C24 alkylpolyglycosides of glycerol; C6-C24 N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as C10-C14 alkylamine oxides or C10-C14 N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.

[0156] The non-ionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or an associated combination, and are preferably oxyethylene units.

[0157] Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants which may be cited:

[0158] monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C24 alkylphenols,

[0159] C8-C30 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated alcohols,

[0160] C8-C30 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated amides,

[0161] esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids and of monoalkylene glycol or polyalkylene glycols,

[0162] monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol,

[0163] saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated oils of vegetable origin, and

[0164] condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in the form of mixtures.

[0165] The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50 and more preferably between 1 and 20.

[0166] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the monooxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from monooxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol), monooxyethylenated fatty ester (ethylene glycol ester of fatty acid), and associated mixtures.

[0167] Examples of monooxyalkylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include glycol distearate.

[0168] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ether of polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol), polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (ester of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid), and associated mixtures.

[0169] Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be cited include adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Laureth-2 to Laureth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Ceteth-2 to Ceteth- 20); adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Steareth-2 to Steareth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-20) and mixtures thereof.

[0170] Examples of unsaturated polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be cited include adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Oleth-2 to Oleth-20); and associated mixtures.

[0171] It is preferable that the non-ionic surfactant of point (g) is chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, more preferably polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, and even more preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols.

[0172] The amount of non-ionic surfactant(s) of point (g) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0173] Furthermore, the amount of non-ionic surfactant(s) of point (g) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight and more preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] The amount of non-ionic surfactant(s) of point (g) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] (pH)

[0176] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6 and more preferably less than or equal to 5, which is measured at 25°C.

[0177] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH greater than or equal to 3, which is measured at 25°C.

[0178] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 6 and more preferably 3 to 5, which is measured at 25°C.

[0179] (Alkaline agent)

[0180] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent. At least two alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may to be used.

[0181] The alkaline agent is different from the fatty amine of point (c).

[0182] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more alkaline agent(s), if the compound of point (a) or the compound of point (b) can serve to reduce the pH of the composition.

[0183] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the alkaline agent is non-volatile. It is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0184] Examples of the inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of the alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As the inorganic alkali agent, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable.

[0185] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.

[0186] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups. In particular, the alkanolamines may be chosen from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

[0187] The diamines can be described in the structure (B) below: FC R. <B) N. / NW-N / X Rs Rd

[0188] wherein W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and related derivatives.

[0189] The amount of alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight and more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] Furthermore, the amount of alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight and more preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0191] The amount of alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0192] (Acid)

[0193] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid which is different from the compound of point (a) or the compound of point (b). At least two acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

[0194] The acid may be used to adjust the pH of the composition according to the present invention.

[0195] As acid, mention may be made of all inorganic or organic acids, preferably inorganic, which are commonly used in cosmetic products, such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HCl). HCl is preferable.

[0196] The amount of acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight and more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0197] Furthermore, the amount of acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0198] The amount of fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] (Other optional ingredients)

[0200] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one other optional ingredient, chosen in particular from: anionic and amphoteric surfactants; thickeners; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; antibacterial agents such as benzoic acid; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol; chelating agents; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, in particular conditioning polymers, such as ca polymers tionics; perfumes; silanes; crosslinking agents; and surfactants including anionic, cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants. The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients listed above.

[0201] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; other polyols such as glycerol; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers.

[0202] Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the above optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal amounts which can be easily determined by a person skilled in the art and which may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as the corresponding amounts, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions used for the present invention.

[0203] (Ammonia and thiol compound)

[0204] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is free of ammonia or thiol compound. The expression "free of ammonia or thiol compound" means that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise a substantial amount of ammonia or thiol compound. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or thiol compound, in particular no ammonia or thiol compound.

[0205] Due to the very small amount or absence of ammonia and / or thiol compound, it is possible to reduce or avoid the bad odor released during the use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0206] The thiol compound here designates a compound which comprises at least one thiol group (-SH).

[0207] The thiol compound may be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and related derivatives, in particular related esters such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and related derivatives, in particular related esters such as Glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and related derivatives, in particular related esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and related derivatives, in particular related C1-C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and related derivatives, in particular related esters; cysteine ​​and related derivatives, in particular related esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine ​​and cysteine ​​alkyl esters; thioglycerin and related derivatives, in particular s-alkyl derivatives; and related salts.

[0208] As the above salts, mention may be made, for example, of ammonium salts; primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts. As primary, secondary or tertiary amine, for example, mention may be made respectively of monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triethanolamine.

[0209] Other examples of thiol reducing agent include, but are not limited to, N-mercapto alkyl sugar amides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, [3-mercaptopropionic acid and related derivatives; thiomalic acid; pan-thetein; N-(mercaptoalkyl)co-hydroxyalkyl amides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 368 763; aminomercaptoalkyl amides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 432 000 and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 514 282; 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2 / 3) and the mixture based on 2-hydroxymethylethyl thioglycolate (67 / 33) described in French patent application No. 2 679 448.

[0210] (Reducing agent and oxidizing agent)

[0211] The composition according to the present invention may comprise a reducing agent; however, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprises a reduced amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent, preferably is free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent.

[0212] The expression "free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent" means that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise a substantial amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in particular no reducing agent or no oxidizing agent.

[0213] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is as described above.

[0214] The non-thiol reducing agent herein refers to a reducing agent without a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites and more preferably from sodium sulfites and bisulfites.

[0215] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygen salts, and compounds for producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.

[0216] (Shape)

[0217] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

[0218] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any galenic form. For example, the compositions used for the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel or the like.

[0219] The composition according to the present invention can be used to treat, preferably reshape and, more preferably, smooth keratin fibers such as hair. [Process]

[0220] The present invention relates to a process for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of: i. applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers ii. possibly rinse the keratin fibers with or without drying the fibers keratin after rinsing; and iii. reshaping, preferably smoothing, the keratin fibers, preferably at a temperature above 50°C, more preferably above 100°C, and even more preferably above 150°C.

[0221] The details of the composition used in the method according to the present invention are the same as those explained in the section entitled [Composition] above.

[0222] The method according to the present invention is intended for the remodeling, preferably for the smoothing, of keratin fibers, such as hair, preferably for smoothing for a long period and more preferably, for smoothing even after several shampoos. In this sense, the method according to the present invention may be a semi-permanent remodeling, preferably smoothing, method.

[0223] It is preferable to wash the keratin fibers before step (i). This cleaning step can be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratin fibers and then rinsing the keratin fibers. After rinsing, the keratin fibers can be dried. It is preferable that the keratin fibers are damp just before step (i).

[0224] In step (i), the composition according to the present invention, which is explained above, is applied to keratin fibers such as hair. The application of the composition according to the present invention can be carried out by any means, such as a brush or a comb.

[0225] The bath ratio of the composition according to the present invention, applied to the keratin fibers, can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The expression "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of the keratin fibers.

[0226] It may be possible, after applying the composition according to the present invention, to leave the keratin fibers as they are for a certain period of time; generally from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate into the keratin fibers.

[0227] After step (i), the process according to the present invention may comprise an optional step (ii) of rinsing the keratin fibers with or without drying the keratin fibers after rinsing.

[0228] Thus, if step (ii) is present, the keratin fibers are rinsed in order to remove the composition according to the present invention from the keratin fibers. The rinsing step can be carried out with water. It is preferable that the keratin fibers are dried after being rinsed. The drying of the keratin fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying means such as a hair dryer.

[0229] On the other hand, if step (ii) is not present, the keratin fibers can be treated by step (iii) after step (i), without rinsing.

[0230] In step (iii), the keratin fibers, which are preferably dry, are subjected to remodeling, preferably to smoothing, preferably at a higher temperature at 50°C, more preferably greater than 100°C and even more preferably greater than 150°C, with a heating element such as a heated straightener or a heated curling iron. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C and more preferably less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be greater than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably greater than 100°C and less than 240°C, and more preferably greater than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0231] The reshaping may be performed by providing the keratin fibers with any mechanical force such as mechanical tension. The mechanical tension may be applied to the keratin fibers by any reshaping means to deform the keratin fibers into a desired shape. For example, the mechanical force may be provided by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of at least one hair straightener, at least one curling iron, at least one comb, and a combination thereof. Any conventional hair straightener, curling iron, or comb may be used as the reshaping means. A hair dryer that can blow gas such as air may also be used as the reshaping means.

[0232] The reshaping means may comprise at least one heating device. Thus, the reshaping means may be at least one heated hair straightener and / or at least one heated curling iron and / or at least one heated comb and / or at least one heated hair dryer which may blow hot gas such as hot air. It may be preferable to use at least one heated hair straightener and / or at least one heated curling iron.

[0233] As a heated hair straightener, any conventional heated hair straightener may be used. The heated hair straightener may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which may be heated, for example, by electrical heating. The heated plate(s) may be applied to the keratin fibers and moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten them.

[0234] It is preferable that the heated hair straightener has two plates and that the keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heated hair straightener, wherein at least one of the plates can be heated, and then the two plates are moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten them.

[0235] It is preferable that the heated straightening iron, in particular a part thereof in contact with keratin fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature greater than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably, greater than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably, greater than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0236] Step (iii) can be carried out by one or more passes of the heated straightening iron in the direction of the keratin fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heated straightener but also by the number of passes of the heated straightener.

[0237] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heated straightener, but also on the number of passes of the heated straightener. It may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably, from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0238] As a heated curling iron, you can use any conventional heated curling iron. If the keratin fibers are wound around a heated curling iron, this winding can be carried out over the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, over half the length of the keratin fibers. Depending, for example, on the desired hairstyle shape and the amount of curls, the winding can be carried out with more or less thick strands.

[0239] It is preferable that the heated straightening iron, in particular a part thereof in contact with keratin fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature greater than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably greater than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably greater than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0240] Step (iii) may be carried out by holding the keratin fibers on a heated curling iron so that mechanical tension is applied to the keratin fibers. Step (iii) may be controlled not only by the temperature of the heated curling iron but also by the strength of the mechanical tension.

[0241] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heated strap curler but also on the resistance of the mechanical tension. It may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0242] If necessary, before step (ii), mechanical tension can be applied to the keratin fibers as explained above. [Kit]

[0243] The present invention also relates to a kit for remodeling, preferably for smoothing, keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0244] at least one appliance selected from the group consisting of a hair straightener, a curling iron, a comb, a hair dryer and an associated combination, preferably at least one heated hair straightener, a heated curling iron, a heated comb or a heated hair dryer which makes it possible to provide the keratin fibers with a temperature greater than 50°C, preferably greater than 100°C and, more preferably, greater than 150°C; and

[0245] the composition according to the present invention.

[0246] Any conventional hair straightener or curling iron, including any conventional heated hair straightener or curling iron, may be used as the above hair straightener or curling iron in the kit according to the present invention.

[0247] The heating element in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C and more preferably above 150°C. This temperature may be below 250°C, preferably below 240°C and more preferably below 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50°C and below 250°C, preferably above 100°C and below 240°C, and more preferably above 150°C and below 230°C.

[0248] The hair straightener or curling iron, as well as the composition, in the kit according to the present invention, can be used as explained in the section entitled [Method] above.

[0249] The details of the composition used in the kit according to the present invention are the same as those explained in the section entitled [Composition] above. [Use]

[0250] The present invention may relate to a use of (c) at least one fatty amine in a composition for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratin fibers such as hair, preferably with heating, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from the compound of point ° (a), chosen from the group consisting of ketoacids, associated salts and associated mixtures

[0251] in order to prolong the remodeling effects for the keatin fibers treated with the composition, in particular in order to further maintain the rectilinear shape of the keratin fibers, or in order to prevent or reduce the waviness of the keratin fibers.

[0252] The heating is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C and more preferably above 150°C. This temperature may be below 250°C, preferably below 240°C and more preferably below 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50°C and below 250°C, preferably above 100°C and below 240°C, and more preferably above 150°C and below 230°C.

[0253] The above composition may further comprise (d) water and / or (e) at least one oil and / or (f) at least one fatty alcohol and / or (g) at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0254] The above explanations concerning the compound of point (a), the compound of point (b) and the fatty amine of point (c), as well as the water of point (d), the oil of point (e), the fatty alcohol of point (f) and the non-ionic surfactant of point (g), may apply to those in the above composition used for use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0255] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 and 2 [Preparation]

[0256] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The numerical values ​​for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0257] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Cetearyl alcohol 5 5 - 5 Isopropyl myristate 10 10 - 10 Glyoxylic acid (50% by weight of SA) (1) 20 20 - 20 Levulinic acid (60% by weight of SA) (2) 5 5 - 5 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 3 - - - Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine - 3 - - Steareth-20 3 3 - 3 pH adjuster qs pH 3 qs pH 3 - qs pH 3 Water qs 100 qs 100 100 qs 100 Smoothing effects (TO / Tlsh) 5 / 4 5 / 4 5 / 1 5 / 3 Surface (TO / Tlsh) 1049 / 125 0 1020 / 127 3 1250 / 153 0 1241 / 142 2

[0258] SA: Active substance 1. marketed by the company WEYLCHEM under the name GLYOXO-HIGH PURE 50 (containing 50% active substance). 2. marketed by the company DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK) under the name DERMOSOFT 700 B (containing 60% active substance). [Evaluations]

[0259] Each of the above compositions was used to straighten a strand of hair, and then the strand of hair was evaluated according to the following protocols. 1. A 27 cm long, slightly wavy, natural black Chinese hair strand was shampooed with a shampoo composition containing SLES shown in Table 2 below. The hair strand was thoroughly rinsed with tap water.

[0260] [Tables2] % by weight Hexylene glycol 1 Sodium chloride 1 Water qsp 100 Coco-betaine 9 Sodium laureth sulfate (70% by weight) 15 Preservatives 0.7 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 1. Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was applied in an amount of 0.6 g to the strand of wet hair. 2. The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C). 3. The lock of hair was thoroughly rinsed with tap water. 4. The strand of hair was dried with a hair dryer (Nobby NB3100, TESCOM DENKI Co., Ltd, Japan) for approximately 90 seconds until dry. 5. The hair strand was straightened in 3 passes with a hair straightener (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180 C, 4 seconds / pass. 6. The level of smoothing of the hair strand was visually assessed immediately after step 6 (for the smoothing effect at T0) according to the following criteria.

[0261] 5: Very good

[0262] 4: Good

[0263] 3: Correct

[0264] 2: Bad

[0265] 1: Very bad

[0266] The results are presented to the left of “ / ” in the “Smoothing Effects (TO / Tlsh)” row of Table 1. 1. A photo of the hair strand was taken immediately after step 6, and the area (expressed as the number of pixels) of the hair strand was determined using a public domain, free software, Image J. The results are shown to the left of “ / ” in the “Area (TO / Tlsh)” row of Table 1. 2. The hair strand was shampooed again with the SLS-containing shampoo composition shown in Table 2, rinsed thoroughly with tap water, and blow-dried (for approximately 90 seconds until dry). 3. The smoothing level and the surface area of ​​the hair strand were evaluated again as above (Tlsh). The results are shown to the right of " / " in the lines "Smoothing effects (TO / Tlsh)" and "Surface area (TO / Tlsh)" of Table 1.

[0267] The evaluation results in Table 1 show that the use of a fatty amine with a combination of glyoxylic acid and levulinic acid can better maintain the straight shape of the hair or reduce the increase in hair volume, which reflects hair straightening or waviness, than the use of the combination of glyoxylic acid and levulinic acid alone.

Claims

Claims

1. A composition for keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one compound, different from the compound of point (a), selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one fatty amine.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the compound of point (b) is selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.

3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the fatty amine of point (c) is selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and a mixture thereof.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, the composition further comprising water of point (d).

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, the composition further comprising at least one oil of point (e).

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, the composition further comprising at least one fatty alcohol of point (f).

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the pH of the composition is less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6 and more preferably less than or equal to 5.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, intended for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratin fibers, such as hair.

9. A method for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratin fibers; (ii) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers with or without drying the keratin fibers after rinsing; and (iii) reshaping, preferably smoothing, the keratin fibers, preferably at a temperature above 50°C, more preferably above 100°C, and even more preferably above 150°C.

10. Kit for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratin fibers such as hair, comprising: at least one appliance selected from the group consisting of a hair straightener, a curling iron, a comb, a hair dryer and an associated combination, preferably at least one heated hair straightener, a heated curling iron, a heated comb or a heated hair dryer which makes it possible to provide the keratin fibers with a temperature greater than 50°C, preferably greater than 100°C and, more preferably, greater than 150°C; and the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.