KERATINOUS FIBERS TREATMENT COMPOSITION
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023009109
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-08-30
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-24
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-08-30
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: KERATINOUS FIBER TREATMENT COMPOSITION technical field
[0001] The present invention relates mainly to a process for treating, preferably remodeling, and more preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Reshaping keratin fibers, such as hair, by heating them with a flat iron is a popular method. It makes unruly keratin fibers more manageable, reduces volume, and improves their appearance. While this method of reshaping with a flat iron is convenient for quick styling, it is not easy to achieve a sufficiently smooth effect.
[0003] Furthermore, conventional methods of permanent remodeling using a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, as well as an oxidizing agent, with heating, can provide keratin fibers with an improved remodeling effect, but they have several disadvantages such as a long treatment time, damage to keratin fibers and a bad smell.
[0004] To date, some remodeling processes of keratinous fibers without using reducing agent and oxidizing agent have been reported.
[0005] For example, US-A-2023 / 0000742 discloses semi-permanent hair smoothing compositions in liquid form with an aqueous base, or in emulsion form with an oily phase, comprising 15 to 20% by weight of glyoxylic acid and 0.1 to 5% by weight of levulinic acid. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0006] There is still a need to improve the method of remodeling keratinous fibers.
[0007] An objective of the present invention is to propose an improved remodeling process for keratinous fibers such as hair, which can provide keratinous fibers with improved remodeling effects while also providing keratinous fibers with an improved texture, such as less squeaking, and better discipline of the keratinous fibers, leading to easier combing of the keratinous fibers and easier application of a hair straightener to the keratinous fibers.
[0008] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a process of re Modeling, preferably for smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, including the following steps:
[0009] (i) application of a composition A to keratinous fibers, wherein the com Position A includes:
[0010] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
[0011] (b) at least one compound, different from (a) compound, chosen from the group consisting in ketoacids, their salts and mixtures thereof,
[0012] (ii) application of a composition B to keratinous fibers, wherein composition B comprises:
[0013] (c) at least one silicone;
[0014] (iii) application of a composition C to keratinous fibers, wherein the composition C comprises:
[0015] (c) at least one silicone; and / or
[0016] (d) at least one polyol, and
[0017] (iv) optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C,
[0018] in which the process includes step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i), and followed by step (iii) then optional step (iv).
[0019] The quantity of the (a) compound(s) in composition A may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0020] The (b) compound can be selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.
[0021] The amount of (b) compound in composition A may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0022] The weight ratio between the (a) compound(s) and the (b) compound(s) included in composition A can range from 1:1 to 10:1, preferably from 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably from 2:1 to 5:1.
[0023] The (c) silicone in composition B can be chosen from amino-modified silicones.
[0024] The quantity of the (c) silicone(s) in composition B may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0025] The (c) silicone in composition C can be selected from among the silicones modified by amino.
[0026] The quantity of the (c) silicone(s) in composition C may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0027] The quantity of the (d) polyol(s) in composition C can be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0028] Composition C may be a non-rinse type cosmetic composition.
[0029] The pH of composition A may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less
[0030] The process according to the present invention may not include the application of ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratinous fibers.
[0031] The process according to the present invention may not include the application of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers.
[0032] The present invention may relate to a remodeling kit, preferably for smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:
[0033] a composition A, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from (a) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and mixtures thereof,
[0034] a composition B comprising: a. at least one silicone, and
[0035] a composition C comprising:
[0036] (c) at least one silicone; and / or a. at least one polyol. Best embodiment of the invention
[0037] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a keratin fiber remodeling process, which can provide keratin fibers with improved remodeling effects, with the application of three different compositions, a composition A, a composition B and a composition C, in which composition A comprises at least one glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof and at least one keto acid or a salt thereof, composition B comprises at least one silicone, and composition C comprises at least one silicone and / or at least one polyol.
[0038] Thus, the present invention relates primarily to a remodeling process, preferably for smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, including the steps of:
[0039] (i) application of a composition A to keratinous fibers, wherein the com Position A includes:
[0040] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
[0041] (b) at least one compound, different from (a) compound, chosen from the group consisting in ketoacids, their salts and mixtures thereof,
[0042] (ii) application of a composition B to keratinous fibers, wherein composition B comprises:
[0043] (c) at least one silicone;
[0044] (iii) application of a composition C to keratinous fibers, wherein the composition C comprises:
[0045] (c) at least one silicone; and / or
[0046] (d) at least one polyol, and
[0047] (iv) optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C,
[0048] in which the process includes step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i), followed by step (iii) then optional step (iv).
[0049] The present invention can improve a remodeling process of keratinous fibers such as hair, with the application of three different compositions, composition A, composition B and composition C, providing improved remodeling effects.
[0050] The remodeling of keratinous fibers, such as hair, here includes the straightening or curling of keratinous fibers.
[0051] The present invention can provide keratinous fibers, such as hair, with more durable remodeling effects. Thus, the present invention can lengthen or prolong the remodeling effects for keratinous fibers. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the remodeled shape of keratinous fibers, or can prevent or reduce the loss of the remodeled shape of keratinous fibers over time.
[0052] In addition, the process according to the present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with an improved texture, such as a better smooth texture and less squeaking sensation, and better discipline of the keratinous fibers, leading to ease of combing of the keratinous fibers and ease of application of a hair straightener on the keratinous fibers.
[0053] The present invention can cause less damage to keratin fibers compared to conventional remodeling processes, because the present invention does not require the use of reducing / oxidizing agents. Consequently, it can be easy to comb the keratin fibers treated by the present invention. Thus, the keratin fibers treated by the present invention can be easy to manage.
[0054] Furthermore, the present invention can use very little or no ammonia or thiol compound, and consequently, the odor during the use of the present invention can be reduced compared to conventional processes that require the use of ammonia or a thiol compound. Also, the present invention can offer ease of use, for example, a short processing time.
[0055] The present invention will be described in detail below. [Process]
[0056] The present invention relates to a remodeling process, preferably for smoothing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of:
[0057] (i) application of a composition A to keratinous fibers, wherein the com Position A includes:
[0058] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
[0059] (b) at least one compound, different from (a) compound, chosen from the group consisting in ketoacids, their salts and mixtures thereof,
[0060] (ii) application of a composition B to keratinous fibers, wherein composition B comprises:
[0061] (c) at least one silicone;
[0062] (iii) application of a composition C to keratinous fibers, wherein the composition C comprises:
[0063] (c) at least one silicone; and / or
[0064] (d) at least one polyol, and
[0065] (iv) optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C,
[0066] in which the process includes step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i), followed by step (iii) then optional step (iv).
[0067] The process according to the present invention is aimed at remodeling keratin fibers such as hair, preferably remodeling over a long period, and more preferably remodeling even after shampooing. In this sense, the process according to the present invention can be a re- semi-permanent modeling. {Step (i)}
[0068] Step (i) consists of applying a composition A to the keratinous fibers. Composition A will be described in detail later.
[0069] The application of composition A can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.
[0070] The bath ratio between the applied composition A and the keratinous fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The expression "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the applied composition and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.
[0071] The amount of composition A applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.1 g to 1 g relative to 1 g of the keratinous fibers.
[0072] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are cleaned before step (i). This cleaning step can be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratin fibers, followed by rinsing them. After rinsing, the keratin fibers can be dried. It is preferable that the keratin fibers be damp just before step (i). The cleaning step is preferably carried out once before performing the process of the present invention.
[0073] It may be possible, after the application of composition A, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; typically from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 15 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow composition A to penetrate the keratinous fibers.
[0074] Composition A may or may not be rinsed from the keratin fibers after step (i). In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition A from the keratin fibers after step (i). {Step (ii)}
[0075] Step (ii) consists of applying a composition B to the keratinous fibers. Composition B will be described in detail later.
[0076] The application of composition B can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.
[0077] The bath ratio between the applied composition B and the keratin fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The expression "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the applied composition and the total weight of the keratin fibers.
[0078] The amount of composition B applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.1 g to 1 g relative to 1 g of the keratinous fibers.
[0079] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are cleaned before step (ii). This cleaning step can be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratin fibers, followed by rinsing them. After rinsing, the keratin fibers can be dried. It is preferable that the keratin fibers be damp just before step (ii).
[0080] It may be possible, after the application of composition B, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; generally from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 5 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 3 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow composition B to penetrate the keratinous fibers.
[0081] Composition B may or may not be rinsed from the keratin fibers after step (ii). In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition B from the keratin fibers after step (ii).
[0082] In a preferred embodiment, there is no cleaning step between steps (i) and (ii).
[0083] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process comprises step (i) followed by step (ii) in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there be a rinsing step between step (i) and step (ii).
[0084] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process comprises step (ii) followed by step (i) in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there be a rinsing step between step (ii) and step (i).
[0085] In another preferred embodiment, the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) then step (i) again in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there be no rinsing step between step (i) and step (ii), and that there be a rinsing step between step (ii) and step (i). {Step (iii)}
[0086] Step (iii) consists of applying a composition C to the keratinous fibers. Composition C will be described in detail later.
[0087] Step (iii) is carried out once steps (i) and (ii) have been completed.
[0088] The application of composition C can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.
[0089] The bath ratio between the applied composition C and the keratin fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The expression "bath ratio" is meant to refer to the weight ratio between the total weight of the applied composition and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.
[0090] The amount of composition C applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.01 g to 0.1 g relative to 1 g of the keratinous fibers.
[0091] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are cleaned before step (iii). This cleaning step can be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratin fibers, followed by rinsing them. After rinsing, the keratin fibers can be dried. It is preferable that the keratin fibers be damp just before step (iii).
[0092] It may be possible, after the application of composition C, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; generally from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 15 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow composition C to penetrate the keratinous fibers.
[0093] Composition C may or may not be rinsed from the keratin fibers after step (iii).
[0094] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention does not include a rinsing step after step (iii). In this embodiment, composition C is used as a leave-on cosmetic composition. {Step (iv)}
[0095] Step (iv) is an optional step. Step (iv) consists of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C. Step (iv) can be carried out once step (iii) has been completed.
[0096] In one embodiment, the keratin fibers are dried just before step (iv). The drying of the keratin fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying method such as a hairdryer.
[0097] In step (iv), the keratinous fibers, which are preferably dry, are heated to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C, with a heating element, preferably a heating iron. This temperature may be below 250 °C, preferably below 240 °C, and more preferably below 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50 °C and below 250 °C, preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.
[0098] Heating can be achieved with a conventional means, such as the application of a heating iron or a curling iron, or a hair dryer.
[0099] Reshaping can also be carried out by supplying the keratin fibers with any mechanical force, such as mechanical tension. The mechanical force can be applied to the keratin fibers by any reshaping means to deform the keratin fibers into a desired shape. For example, the mechanical power can be supplied by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of at least one iron, at least one curler, and a combination thereof. Any conventional iron or curler can be used as a reshaping means.
[0100] The reshaping means may include at least one heating element. Thus, the reshaping means may be at least one heating iron and / or at least one heating curler. Through the reshaping of keratin fibers, the keratin fibers can be straightened or curled. Thus, the process according to the present invention can be used to straighten or curl keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0101] As a heating iron, any conventional heating iron can be used. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which can be heated, for example, by electric heating. The heated plate(s) can be applied to the keratin fibers and moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to smooth them.
[0102] It is preferable that the heating iron has two plates, and that the keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, in which at least one of the plates can be heated, then the two plates are moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to smooth them.
[0103] It is preferable that the heating iron, in particular the part thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature above 50 °C and below 250 °C, more preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and even more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.
[0104] Step (iv) can be carried out by one or more passes of the heating iron in the direction of the keratin fibers. Step (iv) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of passes of the heating iron.
[0105] The heating time can depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of times the heating iron is passed over it. It can be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.
[0106] As a heating coiler, any conventional heating coiler can be used. If the keratin fibers are wound around a heating coiler, this winding can be carried out along the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, over half the length of the keratin fibers. Depending on, by For example, depending on the hairstyle shape and the amount of curls desired, the wrapping can be done with thicker or thinner strands.
[0107] It is preferable that the heating iron, in particular a part thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating rod and a heating cover, has a temperature above 50 °C and below 250 °C, more preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and even more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.
[0108] Step (iv) can be carried out by holding the keratin fibers on a heated spool so that a mechanical tension is applied to the keratin fibers. Step (iv) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heated spool, but also by the strength of the mechanical tension.
[0109] The heating time can depend on the temperature of the heating element but also on the strength of the mechanical tension. It can be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.
[0110] If necessary, before step (iv), mechanical tension may be applied to the keratinous fibers as explained above.
[0111] Details of compositions A, B and C used in the process according to the present invention will be explained below. Composition A
[0112] Composition A of the present invention comprises:
[0113] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
[0114] (b) at least one compound, different from (a) the compound, chosen from the group consisting in ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures.
[0115] (Form)
[0116] The composition A used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.
[0117] Composition A used for the present invention can be in any pharmaceutical form. For example, composition A used for the present invention can be in the form of any hair treatment in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel, and the like.
[0118] Composition A of the present invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion, and more preferably an H / W emulsion.
[0119] (pH)
[0120] Composition A used for the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably of 6 or less, and more preferably of 5 or less, which is measured at 25 °C.
[0121] Composition A used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 or more, which is measured at 25 °C.
[0122] Composition A used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably of 3 to 6, and more preferably of 3 to 5, which is measured at 25 °C.
[0123] The ingredients of composition A are described in detail below.
[0124] (a) Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives
[0125] Composition A of the present invention comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof.
[0126] Only one type of (a) compound may be used, or two or more different types of (a) compounds may be used in combination.
[0127] Compound (a) is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof. In other words, compound (a) is selected from glyoxylic acid and its derivatives.
[0128] Examples of glyoxylic acid solvates include, for instance, glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.
[0129] Examples of glyoxylic acid salts include, for instance, alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate, and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.
[0130] Examples of glyoxylic acid esters include alkyl esters of glyoxylic acid such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.
[0131] Examples of glyoxylic acid amides include, for instance, N- glyoxyloylcarbocysteine and the amino acids of N-glyoxyloyl keratin.
[0132] It is preferable to use glyoxylic acid as (a) compound.
[0133] The quantity of the (a) compound(s) in composition A of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0134] The quantity of the (a) compound(s) in composition A of the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0135] Thus, the quantity of the (a) compound(s) in composition A of the present invention can be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0136] In one embodiment, the quantity of the (a) compound(s) in composition A of the present invention may be greater than 3% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight, and more preferably greater than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0137] Thus, in this embodiment, the quantity of the (a) compound(s) in composition A can be greater than 3% and less than 25% by weight, preferably greater than 5% and less than 20% by weight, and more preferably greater than 10% and less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0138] (b) Ketoacid
[0139] Composition A of the present invention comprises (b) at least one compound, different from (a) compound, selected from ketoacids, their salts, and mixtures thereof. Two or more (b) compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (b) compound or a combination of different types of (b) compounds may be used.
[0140] Ketoacids can be selected from α-ketoacids, γ-ketoacids, γ-ketoacids, and mixtures thereof.
[0141] α-Ketoacids can be compounds represented by the general formula (I):
[0142] R'-C(=O)-COOH (I)
[0143] in which
[0144] R1 designates a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.
[0145] Examples of α-keto acids include pyruvic acid.
[0146] The [3-keto acids can be represented by the general formula (II):
[0147] R2-C(=O)-R3-COOH (II)
[0148] in which • R2 denotes a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH, or a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and • R3 designates a methylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.
[0149] Examples of [3-ketoacids include acetoacetic acid.
[0150] γ-ketoacids can be represented by the general formula (III):
[0151] R2-C(=O)-R4-COOH (III)
[0152] in which • R2 denotes a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH, or a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and • R4 designates an ethylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.
[0153] Examples of γ-keto acids include levulinic acid.
[0154] Ketoacid salts may be alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of ketoacid such as sodium or potassium salts of ketoacid, and magnesium or calcium salts of ketonic acid.
[0155] It is preferable to use, as (b) compounds, γ-keto acid, and more preferably levulinic acid and / or a salt thereof such as sodium levulinate.
[0156] The quantity of the (b) compound(s) in composition A of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0157] The quantity of the (b) compound(s) in composition A of the present invention is 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0158] Thus, the quantity of the (b) compound(s) in composition A of the present invention can be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0159] In another embodiment of the present invention, the (b) compound(s) are present in a smaller quantity than the (a) compound(s) in composition A. For example, the weight ratio between the (a) compound(s) and the (b) compound(s) included in composition A can range from 1:1 to 10:1, preferably from 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably from 2:1 to 5:1. Composition B
[0160] Composition B of the present invention comprises:
[0161] (c) at least one silicone.
[0162] (Form)
[0163] Composition B used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic, alcoholic-aqueous, or oily solution or suspension; a lotion or serum-type solution or dispersion; or an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of type O / W, W / H or multiple (if the composition for the present invention includes at least one oil); of a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of type cream (O / W) or (W / H); of an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.
[0164] Composition B of the present invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion, and more preferably an H / W emulsion.
[0165] Composition B used for the present invention can be in any pharmaceutical form. For example, composition B used for the present invention can be in the form of any hair treatment in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel, and the like.
[0166] (pH)
[0167] Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 8 or less, preferably of 7 or less and more preferably of 6 or less, which is measured at 25 °C.
[0168] The composition used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 or more, and preferably of 3.5 or more, which is measured at 25 °C.
[0169] The composition used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 8, preferably of 3 to 7, and more preferably of 3.5 to 6, which is measured at 25 °C.
[0170] The ingredients of composition B are described in detail below.
[0171] (c) Silicone
[0172] Composition B in the process according to the present invention comprises at least one silicone. Two or more silicones may be included in composition B. Thus, a single type of silicone or a combination of different types of silicones may be used in composition B.
[0173] In the context of the present invention, the term "silicone" used herein means, in accordance with the generally accepted definition, all organosilicon polymers or oligomers having a linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure of varying molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of appropriately functionalized silanes, and essentially comprising a repetition of principal motifs in which the silicon atoms are linked to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond =Si-O-Si=), the optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to the silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular C1.C1 alkyl radicals, and especially methyl, fluoroalkyl, and aryl radicals, and in particular phenyl radicals.
[0174] The (c) silicone can be selected from silicone oils.
[0175] Here “silicone oil” means a silicone compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or paste at room temperature (25 °C) under pressure mospheric (760 mmHg). As silicone oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.
[0176] Silicones or organopolysiloxanes are defined, for example, by Walter Noll in "Chemical and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0177] Thus, the silicone oil or oils can be chosen from volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.
[0178] Thus, silicone oil may comprise either at least one volatile silicone oil, or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or both at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil.
[0179] Volatile or non-volatile silicone may be selected from linear, branched or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one organofunctional fraction or group. (c) silicone is preferably non-volatile.
[0180] For example, silicone oil may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylaryl-siloxanes such as phenyltrimethicone, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one organofunctional fraction or group selected from poly(oxyalkylene) fractions or groups, alkoxy or alkoxyalkyl fractions or groups, hydroxyl or hydroxylated fractions or groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl fractions or groups, carboxylic acid or carboxylate fractions or groups, acrylic fractions or groups, and oxazoline fractions.
[0181] The silicone oil or oils may be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes and organomodified polysiloxanes as explained above.
[0182] The molecular weight of (c) silicone, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups, has a weight average molecular weight (Wm) of 300,000 or more, preferably 350,000 or more, more preferably 400,000 or more, and preferably 3,000,000 or less, more preferably 2,000,000 or less, even more preferably 1,000,000 or less.
[0183] According to one embodiment, (c) silicone, preferably silicone oil, can be selected from non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups known by the trade name dimethicone.
[0184] The preferred (c) silicones according to the present invention may be polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups, such as oils having a viscosity at 25 °C greater than 1,000,000 cSt (mm² / s), more preferably a viscosity greater than 2,000,000 cSt, and even more particularly greater than 5,000,000 cSt, better still greater than 10,000,000 cSt and preferably less than 50,000,000 cSt, better still less than 30,000,000 cSt, even better still less than 15,000,000 cSt.
[0185] According to the present invention, all polydimethylsiloxanes can be used as such or in the form of solutions, emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions.
[0186] Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to these polydial-kylsiloxanes include BY22-029 (a product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.; a nonionic dimethicone oil emulsion), BY22-060 (a product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.; a cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low-viscosity silicone), BY22-019 (a product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.; a nonionic and cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with cyclic silicone), BY22-020 (a product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.; a cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with light liquid T-isoparaffin), KM902 (a product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; a nonionic emulsion of highly polymerized dimethicone), KM903 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.Ltd; Cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by dilution of highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), X-52-2127 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by dilution of highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), X-52-2162 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; non-ionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by dilution of highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), EMU101 (product of Momentive Performance Materials, Inc.; non-ionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by dilution of highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), XS65-B3803 (product of Momentive Performance Materials, Inc.; non-ionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by dilution of highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), DC 7-3100 (product of Dow Corning Toray Silicone, Co., Ltd.).
[0187] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes can be selected from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.
[0188] Non-limiting examples of these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products marketed under the following trade names:
[0189] RHODIA's SILBIONE® fluids from the 70 641 range; RHODIA's RHODORSIL® fluids from the 70 633 and 763 ranges;
[0190] the phenyltrimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING;
[0191] silicones from the PK range of BAYER, for example product PK20;
[0192] silicones from the PN and PH ranges of BAYER, for example the PN1000 products and PH1000; and
[0193] certain fluids from the SF range of GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0194] Organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those defined above and comprising at least one organofunctional fraction or group linked directly or by means of a hydrocarbon group within their structure.
[0195] Organomodified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
[0196] polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy fractions optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl fractions, such as the products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade name DC Q2-5220 and the SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, and L 711 fluids marketed by UNION CARBIDE, and the (Ci2)alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200;
[0197] alkoxylated fractions, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt;
[0198] hydroxylated fractions, such as polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxyalkyl functions described, for example, in French patent application No. FR-A-85 163 34;
[0199] acyloxyalkyl fractions, for example the polyorganosiloxanes described in US patent No. 4,957,732;
[0200] anionic fractions of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European Patent No. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and anionic fractions of alkyl carboxylic acid, such as those present in product X-22-3701E marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255";
[0201] acrylic fractions, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M; and
[0202] oxazoline fractions
[0203] such as silicones comprising 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-β-dimethyl siloxane-β-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). Products marketed by KAO under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96, and OS-88 may also be used.
[0204] Polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups can also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name dhne-thiconol (CTFA), such as the fluids in the 48 range marketed by RHODIA.
[0205] If the silicone oil or oils are non-volatile, the silicone oil or oils may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes and organo-modified polydimethylsiloxanes.
[0206] It is preferable that the silicone oil be chosen from among volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl groups which are pendant and / or at or to the end or ends of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldhne-thicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl siloxy-silicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and organomodified silicones such as dimethiconol.
[0207] It is possible to use a combination of at least one volatile silicone and at least one non-volatile silicone as a silicone oil. Non-limiting examples of such combinations include a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, marketed, for example, under the trade name Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid by Dow Corning.
[0208] It is preferable that the degree of polymerization of (c) silicone be less than 2,000, more preferably less than 1,500, and even more preferably less than 1,000.
[0209] In a preferred embodiment, (c) silicone is selected from amino-modified silicones.
[0210] According to the present invention, the expression "amino-modified silicone", or amino silicone, or amodimethicone, designates any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium, and more particularly at least one primary amine.
[0211] As an aminosilicone that can be used in the present invention, the following may be cited:
[0212] (i) Polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (c): CH. OH HO Si----0' CH. ■'Si--O NH (HAS) NH.
[0213] in which x' and y' are independently integers such that the sum of x' and y' is less than 2000;
[0214] b) Aminosilicones corresponding to formula (B):
[0215] R'aG(3_a)-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'(2_b))mO-SiG(3_a)R'a. (B)
[0216] in which: G independently designates a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl group, OH, or an alkyl group in CrC8j for example methyl, or an alkoxy group in CrC8j for example methoxy, a and a' independently designate the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0; b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1; m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to less than 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
[0217] R' independently denotes a monovalent group of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:
[0218] -NR"-QN(R")2
[0219] -N(R")2
[0220] -N+(R")3 A
[0221] -N+H(R")2 A
[0222] -N+H2(R") A
[0223] -NR"-Q-N+R"H2 A
[0224] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")2H A
[0225] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")3 A ,
[0226] in which
[0227] R" independently designates hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a CrC2o alkyl group;
[0228] Q denotes a linear or branched CrH2r group, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and
[0229] A represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluorine, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0230] A group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" corresponding to the formula (C): i chs ii chs n O—Si---110 — Si----f OS!(CH^)3 | CHg | | | -¼ NH (C) | I NK I __ *__i m
[0231] in which n and m have the meaning given above in formula B.
[0232] Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones corresponding to the following formula (D) or (E): çh3 n àî © u (J ol U ÿs y1 CH, CH,, <r ___ n (ÇHg}3 NH CH.; (ÇH^g NHg m
[0233]
[0234]
[0235]
[0236] in which: • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can go from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 1,000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; • Rb R2 and R3 independently represent a hydroxy or alkoxy group in Ci-C4> in which at least one of the Ri groups to R3 designates an alkoxy group. The alkoxy group is preferentially a methoxy group. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferentially ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferentially from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. The average molecular weight by weight (Pm) of silicone preferentially goes to 2,000 to 230,000, more specifically from 3,500 to 150,000. (0¾ NK.
[0237]
[0238]
[0239]
[0240]
[0241]
[0242]
[0243]
[0244] in which: • p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) goes from 1 to 1,000, particularly from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; knowing that p can denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and that q can denote a number from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; • Ri and R2 independently represent a hydroxy or alkoxy group in Ci-C4 where at least one of the groups Ri or R2 designates an alkoxy group. The alkoxy group is preferentially a methoxy group. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferentially from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95. The average molecular weight by weight (Pm) of silicone preferentially goes to 2,000 to 200,000, even more particularly from 5,000 to 100,000 and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000. Commercial products corresponding to these silicones having structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other aminosilicones whose structure is different from formula (D) or (E). A product containing an aminosilicone having the structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name BELSIL ADM 652. A product containing an aminosilicone having the structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name FLUID WR 1300®. Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (F): ch3 r chHs nr 9^ n ch3 HO—-s—b—à—j—'10 — Si--1—0-—^!—OH CH, I CH || ? | CH, " H- * -K NH
[0245] î ; î $ :^1 | HH, J m in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to less than 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10; A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferentially linear.
[0246]
[0247]
[0248] The average molecular weight (Pm) of these aminosilicones will preferentially tiellement from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000. A preferred silicone formula (F) is amodimethicone sold under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning. Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (G): CH. CH, CH, CH, H,C---If If CH. ch3 O—If HAS HH ! (CH2). S: CH NH.
[0249] in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to less than 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10; A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 atoms of carbon and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferentially branched.
[0250] The average molecular weight by weight (Pm) of these aminosilicones preferentially ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.
[0251] A silicone meeting this formula is, for example, Dow Corning's DC2-8566 Amino Fluid.
[0252] (iii) Aminosilicones corresponding to formula (H): ! -ck-• 'CHOH—CH — < ( Q ' " R, ~ KH si ~ -oi— .....Si.......O- —Si-(RL ...
[0253]
[0254]
[0255] in which: • R5 independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C2-Ci8 alkyl or C2-Ci8 alkenyl group, for example methyl; • R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, in particular an alkylene group in CrCi8 or a divalent alkylenoxy group in CrCi8, for example in CrC8, linked to Si via a SiC bond; • Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or a salt of organic acid (e.g. acetate); • r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20, and in particular from 2 to 8; and • s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50. Such aminosilicones are described more specifically in the patent US 4 185 087. (iv) Quaternary ammonium silicones conforming to formula (I): 2X' N “CHfCI+CHr Rj R; Si—FL - CK - CHOH - CK - N hx! , R- R- K 0)
[0256] in which: R7 independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; R6 independently represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, in
[0257]
[0258] in particular an alkylene group in CrCi8 or a divalent alkylenoxy group in C1-C18, for example in CrC8, linked to Si via a SiC bond; R8 independently represents a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a CrCi8 alkyl group, a C2-C,8 alkenyl group or an -R6-NHCOR7 group; X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride, or a salt of an organic acid (for example, an acetate); and r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530 974. (v) Aminosilicones corresponding to formula (J): R. NH J 0' R( (J) jx
[0259]
[0260]
[0261]
[0262]
[0263]
[0264]
[0265] in which: • Rb R2, R3 and R4 independently designate a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group; • R5 designates a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxy group; • m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; • n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; • and in which x is chosen such that the amine index is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g. (vi) Multiblock polyoxyalkylated aminosilicones of the type (AB)n, where A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylated block containing at least one amine group. These silicones preferably consist of repeating units conforming to the following general formula: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R'')-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or alternatively [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which: • a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; • b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more specifically from 10 to 5,000; R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R independently represents a linear or branched C2-Ci2 divalent hydrocarbon group, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably R independently denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2 group; preferably R independently denotes a -CH2CH2CH2 OCH(OH)CH2 group; and
[0266]
[0267]
[0268]
[0269]
[0270] • R' independently represents a linear or branched C2-Ci2 divalent hydrocarbon-based group, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably R' denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2 group; preferably R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2. Siloxane blocks preferentially represent between 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85% by moles. The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% dipropylene glycol solution, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2. The average molecular weight by weight (Pm) of silicone is preferentially between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more specifically between 10,000 and 200,000. Examples include silicones sold under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive. (vii) The alkylaminosilicones corresponding to the formulas (K1 and K) below: rnr~ -n (K') CH, R' CH R........If O........If O —If O.......If.......R" ch3 CH, CH, NH I (CH2)2 nh2
[0271] in which R, R' and R" independently represent an alkyl or hydroxyl group in Ci- C4, A represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the sum of m + n is less than 2000, preferably less than 1500, and more preferably- profitability less than approximately 1,000;
[0272] [Chem.l] (K)
[0273] in which: • x and y are numbers such that the sum of x and y goes from 1 to less than 2000; preferably x goes from 10 to less than 1500 and in particular from 100 to 1000; preferably y goes from 1 to 100; • RI and R2, preferably identical, are linear or branched alkyl groups, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular 12 to 20 atoms of carbon; and • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0274] Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched.
[0275] Examples include the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 - and -CH2 CH(CH3)CH2-,
[0276] Preferably, RI and R2 are independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particular examples include dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, no-nadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferably, RI and R2, which may be identical or different, are selected from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
[0277] Preferably, the silicone is of formula (K) with: • x ranging from 10 to 2,000 and in particular from 100 to 1,000; • ranging from 1 to 100;
[0278] A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched; and more particularly A is selected from the following divalent groups: CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and • Since RI and R2 are independently linear, saturated alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and particularly 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular
[0279]
[0280]
[0281] among the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, hep-tadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably RI and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups. A preferred formula silicone (K) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. One example is silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive. The aminosilicones in this disclosure may also be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, for example aminopropyl terminal or side groups, for example those of formula (A), (B) or (C): CH 3 / ÇH S ÇHj ■? "'If WH CIL, \ Hh TO HL ' " '■ (A) (C)
[0282]
[0283] In formula (A): the value of n is less than 2000, preferably less than 1500, and more preferably less than 1000. As an example of aminosilicone (A), we can cite those sold under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by the company Gelest. In formula (B), the sum of n and m is such that it is less than 2000, preferably less than 1500, and more preferably less than 1000. Examples of silicone (B) include those sold under the names AMS-132, AMS- 152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin-Etsu.
[0284] In formula (C), the value of n is less than 2,000, preferably less than 1,500, and more preferably less than 1,000. As an example of silicone (C), one can cite those sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.
[0285] Preferably, the aminosilicone according to the present invention is amodimethicone. In one embodiment, the aminosilicone is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. In another embodiment, the aminosilicone is aminopropyl dimethicone.
[0286] Aminosilicones suitable for use according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched aminosilicones having a viscosity ranging from 5x106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25 °C, for example, from 1x105 to 1 m2 / s.
[0287] The silicone(s) used in the present invention may also be a silicone gum. The term "silicone gum" used herein refers to polyorganosiloxanes having a weight average molecular weight (Wm) between 200,000 and 2,000,000 used alone or in mixture in a solvent selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, methylene chloride, pentane or mixtures thereof; They can, for example, have one of the following structures: polydimethylsiloxane, poly [(dimethylsiloxane) / (methylvinylsiloxane)], poly[(dimethylsiloxane) / (vinylhydrogenosiloxane)], poly[(dihydrogenodimethylsiloxane) / (divinylsiloxane)], poly [(dimethylsiloxane) / (diphenylsiloxane)], poly [(dimethylsiloxane) / (phenylmethylsiloxane)], and poly[(dimethylsiloxane) / (diphenylsiloxane) / (methylvinylsiloxane)].
[0288] Silicones can be used as is, in solutions in organic solvents, or as emulsions or microemulsions. Preferably, the silicone is in the form of an aqueous emulsion. The term "aqueous emulsion" refers to an oil-in-water emulsion in which the silicone copolymer is dispersed as particles or droplets in the aqueous phase, which forms the continuous phase of the emulsion. This silicone emulsion can have a silicone droplet or particle size ranging from 10 nm to 50 pm, and preferably from 0.3 pm to 20 pm. The particle size is measured by laser granulometric analysis. This emulsion can be stabilized using a conventional emulsification system. The emulsification system includes surfactants that are normally used in silicone emulsions.These surfactants can be non-ionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants or their derivatives. mixtures.
[0289] The (c) silicone(s) may be present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0290] The (c) silicone(s) may be present in an amount of 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0291] The quantity of the (c) silicone(s) in composition B according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B. Composition C
[0292] Composition C of the present invention comprises:
[0293] (c) at least one silicone; and / or
[0294] (d) at least one polyol.
[0295] Composition C comprises either (c) silicone and (d) polyol. In a preferred embodiment, composition C comprises both (c) silicone and (d) polyol.
[0296] (Form)
[0297] The composition C used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.
[0298] Composition C used for the present invention can be in any pharmaceutical form. For example, composition C used for the present invention can be in the form of any hair treatment in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel, and the like.
[0299] Composition C of the present invention is preferably in the form of a cream.
[0300] (pH)
[0301] The composition C used for the present invention may have a pH of 8 or less, preferably of 7 or less, and more preferably of 6 or less, which is measured at 25 °C.
[0302] The composition used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 or higher, pre preferentially 3.5 or more, and more preferably 4 or more, which is measured at 25 °C.
[0303] The composition used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 8, preferably of 3.5 to 7 and more preferably of 4 to 6, which is measured at 25 °C.
[0304] The ingredients of composition C are described in detail below.
[0305] (c) Silicone
[0306] The (c) silicone included in composition C is the same as that explained for composition B, and the same explanations can be applied to the (c) silicone in composition C.
[0307] The (c) silicone(s) may be present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0308] The (c) silicone(s) may be present in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0309] The quantity of the (c) silicone(s) in composition C according to the present invention can be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0310] (d) Polyol
[0311] Composition C in the process according to the present invention comprises at least one (d) polyol. Two or more polyols may be included in composition C. Thus, a single type of (d) polyol or a combination of different types of (d) polyols may be used in composition C.
[0312] In one embodiment, composition C comprises at least two different types of (d) polyols.
[0313] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0314] The polyol suitable for use in the invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl-type compound, saturated or unsaturated, comprising at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.
[0315] Preferably, the (d) polyol that can be used in composition A of the present invention is a linear or branched alkyl-type compound, preferably linear bearing at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functions, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functions, and even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functions on the alkyl chain.
[0316] Polyols which are advantageously suited to the formulation of composition C of the present invention are those having in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms or for example, 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0317] The polyols that can be used in composition C of the present invention are chosen from linear or branched polyols, preferably linear ones having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; examples include: • diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, and butylene glycol; and • triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),
[0318] and mixtures thereof.
[0319] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (d) polyol is selected from linear alkyl polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0320] The (d) polyol(s) may be present in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0321] The (d) polyol(s) may be present in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0322] The quantity of the (d) polyol(s) in composition C of the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0323] (Other optional ingredients) - Water
[0324] Compositions A to C according to the present invention may or may not include water, respectively.
[0325] Thus, if each of the compositions A to C according to the present invention comprises water, the compositions of the present invention are not anhydrous.
[0326] The quantity of water in each of the compositions A to C according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0327] Furthermore, the quantity of water in each of the compositions A to C according to the present invention can be 98% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 90% by weight or less relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0328] The quantity of water in each of the compositions A to C according to the present invention can be from 20% to 98% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Alkaline agent
[0329] Each of the compositions A to C of the present invention may or may not include at least one alkali agent. Two or more alkali agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkali agent or a combination of different types of alkali agents may be used.
[0330] In one embodiment of the present invention, composition A comprises at least one alkaline agent.
[0331] The alkali agent may be an inorganic alkali agent. Preferably, the alkali agent should be non-volatile. Preferably, the inorganic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.
[0332] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable as inorganic alkali metals.
[0333] The alkali agent may be an organic alkali agent. It is preferable that the organic alkali agent be chosen from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.
[0334] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, and tri-ethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl groups (at C1-C4). In particular, alkanolamines may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
[0335] Diamines can be described by the structure (B) below: FU R (B) NW'N r k z \
[0336] in which W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a C1-C4 hydroxyl or alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.
[0337] The quantity of the alkali agent(s) in each of the compositions A to C of the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% in weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0338] Furthermore, the quantity of the alkali agent(s) in each of the compositions A to C according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0339] Thus, the quantity of the alkali agent(s) in each of the compositions A to C of the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0340] (Oil)
[0341] Each of the compositions A to C of the present invention may or may not include at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
[0342] In one embodiment, all compositions A to C of the present invention comprise at least one oil.
[0343] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid, paste, or solid at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As (g) oil(s), those commonly used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0344] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, or similar; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture of these.
[0345] The oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, and hydrocarbon oils.
[0346] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0347] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.
[0348] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0349] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0350] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.
[0351] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of C4-C26 non-sugar monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols, may also be used.
[0352] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; trii-socetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.
[0353] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C3O fatty acids and preferably of C2-C22-H fatty acids may be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0354] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0355] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C30, and preferably in Ci2-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0356] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0357] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0358] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular mono-ooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0359] An example that can be mentioned is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0360] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0361] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0362] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from: • Lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.
[0363] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils may be cited, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0364] It is preferable that the oil be chosen from among polar oils, more preferably ester oils, and even more preferably monoester oils.
[0365] The quantity of the oil(s) in each of the compositions A to C of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0366] Furthermore, the quantity of the oil or oils in each of the compositions A to C according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0367] Thus, the quantity of the oil or oils in each of the compositions A to C of the present invention can be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0368] (Fatty alcohol)
[0369] Each of the compositions A to C of the present invention may or may not include at least one fatty alcohol. Only one type of alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.
[0370] In one embodiment, each of compositions A and B of the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol. In another embodiment, all compositions A to C of the present invention comprise at least one fatty alcohol.
[0371] The term "fatty" here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. A fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.
[0372] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from the alkyl groups Ci2-C24 and alkenyl groups Ci2-C24. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0373] Non-limiting examples of (h) fatty alcohols that may be cited include lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and a mixture of these.
[0374] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
[0375] Fatty alcohol can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol can coexist, in mixture form, in a commercial product.
[0376] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).
[0377] It is preferable that the (h) fatty alcohol be chosen from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.
[0378] The quantity of fatty alcohol(s) in each of the compositions A to C of the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0379] Furthermore, the quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) in each of the compositions A to C according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0380] Thus, the quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) in each of the compositions A to C of the present invention can be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0381] (Non-ionic surfactant)
[0382] Each of the compositions A to C of the present invention may or may not include at least one nonionic surfactant. Only one type of nonionic surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.
[0383] In one embodiment, each of the compositions A and B of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.
[0384] Nonionic surfactants are well-known compounds in themselves (see, for example, in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, Blackie & Son, publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178). Thus, they may, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated, or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, knowing that the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups may range from 2 to 50, and that the number of glycerol groups may range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.Other examples include, but are not limited to, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; poly-ethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerol fatty amides comprising, for example, 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising 2 to 30 mol of oxide. ethylene; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of (C6-C24)alkylpolyglycosides of glycerol; derivatives of N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine, amine oxides such as (C10-C14)alkylamine oxides or N-(Cio-Ci4)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.
[0385] Nonionic surfactants may preferably be selected from monooxyalkylated, polyoxyalkylated, monoglycerol, or polyglycerol nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene motifs are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene motifs, or combinations thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene motifs.
[0386] Examples of monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated nonionic surfactants that may be cited include:
[0387] monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated (C8-C24)alkylphenols,
[0388] saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated alcohols in C8-C30,
[0389] saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated amides in C8-C30,
[0390] polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids, and of monoalkylene glycol or polyalkylene glycols,
[0391] monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids, and of sorbitol,
[0392] saturated or unsaturated vegetable oils, monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated, and
[0393] ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates, among others, alone or in mixture.
[0394] Surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, and more preferably between 1 and 20.
[0395] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the non-ionic monooxyalkylated surfactants can be selected from monooxyethylated fatty alcohol (ethylene glycol fatty alcohol ether), monooxyethylated fatty ester (ethylene glycol fatty acid ester), and mixtures thereof.
[0396] Examples of monooxyalkylated fatty esters that may be cited include glycol distearate.
[0397] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylated nonionic surfactants can be selected from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol fatty alcohol ether), polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (ester of polyethylene glycol and fatty acids), and their mixtures.
[0398] Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be cited include ethylene oxide adducts with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Laureth-2 to Laureth-20); ethylene oxide adducts with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20); ethylene oxide adducts with cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-20); ethylene oxide adducts with cetyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA names Ceteth-2 to Ceteth-20); ethylene oxide adducts with stearyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA names Steareth-2 to Steareth-20);ethylene oxide adducts with isostearyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA names Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-20) and mixtures thereof.
[0399] Examples of unsaturated polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be cited include ethylene oxide adducts with oleyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene motifs and more particularly those containing 2 to 10 oxyethylene motifs (names CFTA Oleth-2 to Oleth-20); and mixtures thereof.
[0400] It is preferable that the non-ionic surfactant be chosen from among monooxyalkylated, polyoxyalkylated non-ionic surfactants, more preferably polyoxyalkylated non-ionic surfactants, and even more preferably polyoxyethylated fatty alcohols.
[0401] The quantity of the non-ionic surfactant(s) in each of the compositions A to C of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.25% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0402] Furthermore, the quantity of the non-ionic surfactant(s) in each of the compositions A to C according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0403] Thus, the quantity of the non-ionic surfactant(s) in each of the compositions A to C of the present invention can be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Mono-alcohol
[0404] Composition A to C of the present invention may or may not include at least one monoalcohol. Only one type of monoalcohol can be used, or two or more different types of monoalcohol can be used in combination.
[0405] In one embodiment, each of the compositions A to C of the present invention comprises at least one monoalcohol.
[0406] The monoalcohol here can be a hydrophilic monoalcohol soluble in water. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic" here means that a substance is soluble in water at a concentration of 1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).
[0407] The monoalcohol can be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, bearing only one hydroxyl (OH) function.
[0408] In one embodiment, the monoalcohol can be an aliphatic monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0409] The term "aliphatic monoalcohol" here refers to any saturated alkane compound, linear or branched, bearing only one hydroxyl (OH) function.
[0410] The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present may be selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.
[0411] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol can be chosen from linear aliphatic monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol and mixtures thereof.
[0412] The quantity of the monoalcohol(s) in each of the compositions A to C of the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0413] Furthermore, the quantity of the monoalcohol(s) in each of the compositions A to C according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0414] Thus, the quantity of the monoalcohol(s) in each of the compositions A to C of the present invention can be from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Optional ingredients
[0415] Each of the compositions A to C of the present invention may also include at least one other optional ingredient, chosen in particular from: viscosity correctors, such as thickeners; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; preservatives; anti-aging agents Bacterial agents; chelating agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, particularly conditioning polymers such as cationic polymers; perfumes; silanes; crosslinking agents; and surfactants, including anionic and amphoteric surfactants. The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients from the list above.
[0416] The above optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal quantities which can be easily determined by a person skilled in the art and which may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight in each of the compositions A to C. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, so that they do not impair the properties of the compositions used for the present invention. - Ammonia and thiol compound
[0417] Preferably, the process according to the present invention does not involve the application of ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratin fibers. Therefore, it is preferable that each of the compositions A to C be free of ammonia or a thiol compound. The expression "free of ammonia or a thiol compound" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of ammonia or a thiol compound.
[0418] Preferably, each of the compositions A to C according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or thiol compound, in particular no ammonia or thiol compound.
[0419] Due to the use of a very small amount or the absence of ammonia and / or thiol compound, the bad odor during the use of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced or prevented.
[0420] The compound thiol here refers to a compound which has at least one thiol group (-SH).
[0421] The thiol compound can be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent can be chosen in the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, in particular its Ci-C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and its derivatives, in particular its esters; cysteine and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alcanoylcysteine and cysteine alkyl esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, including its s-alkyl derivatives, as well as its salts.
[0422] Examples of the above-mentioned salts include ammonium salts; primary, secondary, or tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts; and alkaline earth metal salts. Examples of primary, secondary, or tertiary amines include monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine, and triethanolamine, respectively.
[0423] Other examples of thiol reducing agents include, but are not limited to, sugar N-mercapto alkyl amides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, [3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives; thiomalic acid; panthetin; N-(mercaptoalkyl)co-hydroxyalkyl amides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 368 763; aminomer-captoalkyl amides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 432 000 and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 514 282; 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2 / 3) and the mixture based on 2-hydroxymethyl-1-ethyl thioglycolate (67 / 33) described in French patent application No. 2 679 448. - Reducing agent and oxidizing agent
[0424] Preferably, the process according to the present invention does not involve the application of a reducing or oxidizing agent to the keratin fibers. Therefore, it is preferable that each of the compositions A to C be free of reducing or oxidizing agents. The expression "free of reducing or oxidizing agents" means that a composition does not include a substantial amount of reducing or oxidizing agent.
[0425] In one embodiment, each of the compositions A to C of the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in particular no reducing agent or oxidizing agent.
[0426] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is as described above.
[0427] The non-thiol reducing agent herein means a reducing agent without a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones, and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites, and more preferably from sodium sulfites and bisulfites.
[0428] The oxidizing agent may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of produce hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent can be chosen from an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates. {Optional step (v)}
[0429] The process according to the present invention may or may not include at least one additional step (v) of applying at least one treatment composition other than compositions A to C to the keratinous fibers. The treatment composition will be described in detail later.
[0430] The process according to the present invention may include the additional step (v) once or twice or more, preferably once or twice.
[0431] The application of the treatment composition can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.
[0432] The process according to the present invention may include step (v) before and / or after any of steps (i) to (iv), but preferably includes step (v) before and / or after steps (i) and / or (ii), and before step (iii).
[0433] Thus, for example, the process according to the present invention may comprise steps (i) to (v) in the following order:
[0434] - step (v) —> step (i) —> step (ii) —> step (iii) —> step (iv),
[0435] - step (i) —> step (v) —> step (ii) —> step (iii) —> step (iv),
[0436] - step (i) —> step (ii) —> step (v) —> step (iii) —> step (iv),
[0437] - step (v) —> step (i) —> step (v) —> step (ii) —> step (iii) —> step (iv),
[0438] - step (v) —> step (ii) —> step (i) —> step (iii) —> step (iv),
[0439] - step (ii) —> step (v) —> step (i) —> step (iii) —> step (iv),
[0440] - step (ii) —> step (i) —> step (v) —> step (iii) —> step (iv),
[0441] - step (ii) —> step (v) —> step (i) —> step (v) —> step (iii) —> step (iv), or
[0442] - step (v) —> step (ii) —> step (i) —> step (v) —> step (iii) —> step (iv),
[0443] in which step (iv) is optional.
[0444] It may be possible, after application of the treatment composition, to leave the keratin fibers as they are for a certain period of time; typically from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate the keratin fibers.
[0445] The amount of the treatment composition applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.05 g to 0.5 g relative to 1 g of the keratinous fibers.
[0446] The treatment composition may or may not be rinsed from the keratin fibers after step (v). In one embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention does not include a rinsing step after step (v).
[0447] (Treatment composition)
[0448] The form of the treatment compositions that can be used for the present invention can be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.
[0449] The treatment compositions that can be used for the present invention can have a pH of 1.5 to 7 at 25 °C.
[0450] The formulations of the treatment compositions are not particularly limited, and treatment compositions for keratinous fibers commonly used in the cosmetic field can be employed.
[0451] For example, the treatment composition may or may not include at least one polyol, at least one vegetable oil, at least one organic acid and / or at least one protein denaturing agent. - Polyol
[0452] The polyol included in the treatment composition is the same as the (d) polyol explained above, and the same explanations may apply.
[0453] The quantity of the polyol(s) in the treatment composition may be from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 35% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. - Vegetable oil
[0454] A single type of vegetable oil or a combination of different types of vegetable oils may be used in the treatment composition.
[0455] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar, and preferably non-volatile and polar.
[0456] For the purposes of the present invention, "polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter ôa at 25 °C is different from 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2.
[0457] In particular, "polar oil" means an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
[0458] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the tridi solubility space Hansen's dimensional parameters are described in the article by CM Hansen: The three-di-mensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).
[0459] According to this Hansen space:
[0460] - ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular impacts;
[0461] - ôp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
[0462] - ôh characterizes specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base bonds, donor / acceptor bonds, etc.);
[0463] - ôa is determined by the equation: ôa = (ôp2 + ôh2)' / 2.
[0464] The parameters ôp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)' / 2.
[0465] The expression "vegetable oil" here refers to oils of vegetable origin.
[0466] Vegetable oil may be hydrocarbon-based. For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oil does not contain any silicon atoms.
[0467] Examples of vegetable oils may include, but are not limited to, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, linseed oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil (Cocos nucifera oil), pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, oil of St. John's wort, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil,Winter squash oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, rosehip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, watermelon oil, and blends thereof.
[0468] Vegetable oil may include at least one fatty acid. Thus, vegetable oil may be a mixture of fatty acids and vegetable oils. Vegetable oil may include a single type of fatty acid or a combination of different types of fatty acids.
[0469] The term "fatty acid" here refers to a monofunctional carboxylic acid with an aliphatic chain.
[0470] The fatty acid can be linear or branched. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is linear.
[0471] The fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is chosen from saturated fatty acids. In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is chosen from unsaturated fatty acids having 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, and more preferably monounsaturated fatty acids.
[0472] Non-limiting examples of fatty acid include fatty acids having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0473] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is chosen from linear saturated fatty acids and linear unsaturated fatty acids having 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, preferably monounsaturated fatty acids.
[0474] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from linear fatty acids having 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, wherein the fatty acids are saturated or monounsaturated.
[0475] The fatty acid can be represented by the following formula (I):
[0476] RCOOH (I)
[0477] in which: • R is a linear or branched C8-C28 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C10-C24 alkyl or alkenyl group, more preferably a C2-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group. R may include 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, and preferably one carbon-carbon double bond.
[0478] By way of non-limiting examples of fatty acids, arachidic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, and mixtures thereof may be cited.
[0479] Preferably, the fatty acid is selected from linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, palmitoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0480] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the vegetable oil is chosen from avocado oil, jojoba oil and a combination thereof.
[0481] The fatty acid(s) may be present in the vegetable oil(s) in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 65% by weight or more, and more preferably 80% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the vegetable oil(s).
[0482] In one embodiment of the present invention, the vegetable oil comprises at less one monounsaturated fatty acid, and preferably at least one linear monounsaturated fatty acid, having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0483] The monounsaturated fatty acid(s) may be present in the vegetable oil(s) in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the vegetable oil(s).
[0484] The linear monounsaturated fatty acid(s) may be present in the vegetable oil(s) in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the vegetable oil(s).
[0485] The vegetable oil or oils may be present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the treatment composition.
[0486] The vegetable oil or oils may be present in an amount of 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the treatment composition.
[0487] The quantity of the vegetable oil or oils in the treatment composition may be from 1% to 90% by weight, preferably from 3% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the treatment composition. - Organic acid
[0488] A single type of organic acid or a combination of different types of organic acids may be used in the treatment composition.
[0489] The organic acid is different from (a) and (b) compounds which are described above.
[0490] The organic acid can be chosen from, for example, those having one or more acidic groups selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic acid group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphonic group, a phosphoric group, a phenolic hydroxyl group, and a mixture thereof. Preferably, the organic acid is selected from those having one or more carboxylic acid groups and / or phosphoric groups.
[0491] In one embodiment of the present invention, the organic acid has at least one carboxylic acid group.
[0492] In one embodiment, the organic acid is chosen from among the carboxylic acids. Non-limiting examples of useful carboxylic acids may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, gluconic acid, propionic acid, aconitic acid and EDTA, as well as their combinations.
[0493] In one embodiment of the present invention, the carboxylic acid may comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 2 to 7 carbon atoms.
[0494] In one embodiment of the present invention, the organic acid is selected from phosphoric acids. Non-limiting examples of useful phosphoric acids may include phytic acid, inositol triphosphate, inositol pentakis-phosphate, tripolyphosphate and adenosine triphosphate, as well as combinations thereof.
[0495] In one embodiment of the present invention, the organic acid is selected from monocarboxylic acids. Examples of suitable monocarboxylic acids include, but are not limited to, aryl, (hetero)cyclic, alkyl and / or aliphatic monocarboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, mono-, di- or trichloroacetic acid, glycolic acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, pyruvic acid, propionic acid, D-gluconic acid and D-galacturonic acid.
[0496] In one embodiment, the organic acid may have two or more acid groups. This type of organic acid may be one having two acid groups, one having three acid groups, and one having four or more acid groups.
[0497] In one embodiment of the present invention, the organic acid having two or more acid groups may be a polycarboxylic acid.
[0498] Examples of polycarboxylic acids having two carboxylic acid groups include dicarboxylic acids, such as oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid and azelaic acid.
[0499] Examples of polycarboxylic acids having three carboxylic acid groups include tricarboxylic acids, such as citric acid and aconitic acid.
[0500] Examples of polycarboxylic acids having four or more carboxylic acid groups include tetracarboxylic acids, such as EDTA, pentacarboxylic acids and hexacarboxylic acids.
[0501] In one embodiment of the present invention, the organic acid can be chosen from among the hydroxy acids.
[0502] The hydroxy acid may comprise at least one mono- or polycarboxylic acid comprising at least one hydroxyl functional group. The hydroxy acid can be chosen from among α- and [3-]hydroxy acids. For example, the hydroxy acid can be an α-hydroxy acid. The α and [3] positions reflect the fact that at least one of the hydroxyl groups occupies an α or [3] position relative to at least one of the carboxyl groups of the acid; that is, it is attached, respectively, to the carbon bearing the hydroxyl function, either at the carbon adjacent to the one bearing the carboxyl function. The acid can be present in a form chosen from among the free acids, their associated salts (such as salts with organic bases and alkali metals), for example, depending on the final pH given to the composition, and optionally the corresponding lactides (i.e. the form obtained by autoesterification of the molecules).
[0503] The term "α-hydroxy acid" here refers to a carboxylic acid or a phosphoric acid, which has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (α) carbon atom.
[0504] The α-Hydroxy acid can be represented by the following chemical formula (I):
[0505] (Ra)(Rb)C(OH)COOH
[0506] where
[0507] Ra and Rb are H, F, Cl, Br, I, an alkyl or aralkyl group in saturated or unsaturated form, isomeric or non-isomeric, straight-chain or branched or cyclic, having 1 to 7 carbon atoms, and furthermore Ra and Rb may bear OH, CHO, COOH and an alkoxy group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0508] Typical alkyl, aralkyl, aryl and alkoxyl groups for Ra and Rb include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and pentyl.
[0509] The α-hydroxy acid may be chosen, for example, from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, phytic acid and a mixture of these.
[0510] It is preferable that the hydroxy acid have two or more carboxylic groups, and more preferably two or three carboxylic groups.
[0511] It is also preferable that the hydroxy acid have one or more hydroxyl groups, and more preferably one or two hydroxyl groups.
[0512] It is also preferable that the hydroxy acid be chosen from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, mucinous acid, phytic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0513] The organic acid can be chosen from neutral or acidic amino acids.
[0514] The organic acid is preferably chosen from among "neutral" or "acidic" amino acids. The term "neutral" is intended to refer to amino acids or aminosulfonic acids that have a pH, at room temperature (25 °C), in water between 5 and 7 inclusive. The term "acidic" is intended to refer to amino acids or aminosulfonic acids that have a pH, at room temperature, in water below 6.
[0515] Amino acids may comprise a number of amino groups less than or equal to the number of acid groups.
[0516] The amino acid may be selected from the group consisting of glycine, alanine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, phenylalanine, isoleucine, leucine, proline, glutamine, serine, threonine, valine, tryptophan and tyrosine; amino acid oligomers such as glycylglycine; and their mixtures.
[0517] In a preferred embodiment, the amino acid can be chosen from the acids acidic amino acids, such as glutamic acid, aspartic acid and their mixtures.
[0518] In another preferred embodiment, the organic acid is selected from aliphatic monocarboxylic acids other than glyoxylic acid; hydroxy acids, in particular α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, mucic acid, phytic acid; and amino acidic acids, such as glutamic acid and aspartic acid; and mixtures thereof.
[0519] The organic acid of the present invention may be in the form of a salt. The The term "salt" here refers to a salt formed by the addition of one or more suitable bases to organic acids. Examples of salts include metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.
[0520] In a preferred embodiment, the organic acid is not in the form of a salt.
[0521] The quantity of the organic acid(s) in the treatment composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the treatment composition. - Protein denaturing agent
[0522] A single type of protein denaturing agent or a combination of different types of protein denaturing agent may be used in the treatment composition.
[0523] Here, the term “protein denaturing agent” refers to compounds that have a function of releasing a higher-order protein structure and dissociating hydrogen bonds and hydrophobic interactions between polypeptide side chains. The protein denaturing agent may be a protein-denaturing osmolyte / chaotropic agent.
[0524] The protein denaturing agent is different from (a) and (b) compounds which are described above.
[0525] The protein-denaturing agent of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it has the functions explained above, and can be selected from urea and its derivatives; guanidine and its salts, such as guanidinium chloride; protein-denaturing salts, such as perchlorates, for example lithium perchlorate, lithium acetate, magnesium chloride, KCl, LiCl, NH4Cl, (NH4)2SO4; protein-denaturing surfactants, preferably anionic surfactants, such as sodium dodecyl sulfate and lithium dodecyl sulfate; and organic solvents such as ethanol, n-butanol, 2-propanol, and
[0526]
[0527]
[0528] phenol. In a preferred embodiment, the protein denaturing agent is chosen from urea and urea derivatives. The term "urea derivative" refers to any compound other than urea (CO(NH2)2) itself, comprising in its chemical formula a carbonyl group simply bonded to two nitrogen atoms, namely: a motif Preferably, the compound(s) (a) are chosen from compounds of formula (I) or (II), their salts or their hydrates:
[0529]
[0530]
[0531]
[0532] in which: • RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently: (i) a hydrogen atom or (ii) a linear or branched lower alkyl or alkenyl radical, cyclic or acyclic in the Ci-C5 range; a Ci-C5 alkoxy radical; a C6-Ci8> aryl radical; a 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic radical; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical selected from the following: hydroxyl, (di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino such as dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-Ci8> aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide; it being understood that: • when RI, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 may designate a carboxamide, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (Ci-C6)alkylcarbonyl such as acetyl, or (Ci-C6)alkoxycarbonyl such as methoxy-carbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, -CO-CH=CH-COOH, phenyl optionally substituted by a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl, benzyl or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl radical; • when RI and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R2 can represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl radical and R4 may represent an acetyl radical; • when R1=R2=H, R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, a piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or maleimide ring; • RI and R2 as well as R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, an imidazole ring; • R5 and R6 represent independently of each other: i. a hydrogen atom or ii. a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic lower C1-C5 alkyl, acyl or alkenyl radical, a C1-C5 alkoxy radical, a C6-C18> aryl radical, a 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic radical; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical selected from the following: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C18> aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide; • A is a radical chosen from the following radicals: CH2-CH2, CH=CH, CH2 -CO, CO-NH, CH=N, CO-CO, CHOH-CHOH, (HOOC)CH-CH, CHOH-CO, CH2-CH2-CH2, CH2-NH-CO, CH=C(CH3)-CO, NH-CO-NH, ch2-ch2-co, CH2-N(CH3)-CH2, NH-CH2-NH, CO-CH(CH3)-ch2, co-ch2-co, co-NH-CO, CO-CH(COOH)-CH2, CO-CH=C(COOH), CO-CH=C(CH3), co-C(NH2)=CH, CO-C(CH3)=N, CO-CH=CH, CO-CH=N and CO-N=CH.
[0533] Among the compounds of formula (I) which are particularly preferred according to the invention, the following may be mentioned:
[0534] - urea
[0535] - methylurea;
[0536] - ethylurea;
[0537] - propylurea;
[0538] - n-butylurea;
[0539] - dry butylurea;
[0540] - isobutylurea;
[0541] - tert-butylurea;
[0542] - cyclopentylurea;
[0543] - ethoxyurea;
[0544] - hydroxyethylurea;
[0545] - N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea;
[0546] - N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea;
[0547] - N-(2-dimethylaminopropyl)urea;
[0548] - N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)urea;
[0549]
[0550]
[0551]
[0552]
[0553]
[0554]
[0555]
[0556]
[0557]
[0558]
[0559]
[0560]
[0561]
[0562]
[0563]
[0564]
[0565]
[0566]
[0567]
[0568]
[0569]
[0570]
[0571]
[0572]
[0573]
[0574]
[0575]
[0576]
[0577]
[0578]
[0579]
[0580]
[0581]
[0582] - l-(3-hydroxyphenyl)urea; - benzylurea; - N-carbamoylmaleamide; - N-carbamoylmaleamic acid; - piperidine carboxamide; - l,2,4-triazol-4-ylurea; - hydantoic acid; - methyl allophanate; - ethyl allophanate; - acetylurea; - hydroxyethylene urea; - 2-(hydroxyethyl)ethyleneurea; - diallylurea; - chloroethylurea; - N,N-dimethylurea; - N,N-diethylurea; - N,N-dipropylurea; - cyclopentyl-l-methylurea; - 1,3-dimethylurea; - 1,3-diethylurea; - l,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)urea; - l,3-bis(2-hydroxypropyl)urea; - l,3-bis(3-hydroxypropyl)urea; - 1,3-dipropylurea; - ethyl-3-propylurea; - sec-butyl-3-methylurea; - isobutyl-3-methylurea; - cyclopentyl-3-methylurea; - N-acetyl-N'-methylurea; - trimethylurea; - butyl-3,3-dimethylurea;- tetramethylurea; and - benzylurea. Among the compounds of formula (II) which are particularly preferred according to the invention, the following may be mentioned:
[0583]
[0584]
[0585] - parabanic acid; - 1,2-dihydro-3H-1,2,4-triazol-2-one; - barbituric acid;
[0586] - uracil;
[0587] - 1-methyluracil;
[0588] - 3-methyluracil;
[0589] - 5-methyluracil;
[0590] - 1,3-dimethyluracil;
[0591] - 5-azauracile;
[0592] - 6-azauracile;
[0593] - 5-fluorouracil;
[0594] - 6-fluorouracil;
[0595] - 1,3-dimethyl-5-fluorouracil;
[0596] - 5-aminouracil;
[0597] - 6-amino-uracil;
[0598] - 6-amino-1-methyluracil;
[0599] - 6-amino-1,3-dimethyluracil;
[0600] - 4-chlorouracil;
[0601] - 5-chlorouracil;
[0602] - 5,6-dihydrouracil;
[0603] - 5,6-dihydro-5-methyluracil;
[0604] - 2-imidazolidone;
[0605] - l-methyl-2-imidazolidinone;
[0606] - 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone;
[0607] - 4,5-dihydroxy-imidazolidine-2-one;
[0608] - l-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone;
[0609] - l-(2-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone;
[0610] - l-(3-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone;
[0611] - 4,5-dihydroxy-l,3-dimethyl-imidazolidin-2-one;
[0612] - 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone;
[0613] - 2-imidazolidone-4-carboxylic acid;
[0614] - l-(2-aminoethyl)-2-imidazole;
[0615] - 4-methyl-l,2,4-triazoline-3,5-dione;
[0616] - 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine;
[0617] - 1-amino-4,5-dihydro-1H-tetrazol-5-one;
[0618] - hydantoin;
[0619] - 1-methylhydantoin;
[0620] - 5-methylhydantoin;
[0621] - 5,5-dimethylhydantoin;
[0622] - 5-ethylhydantoin;
[0623] - 5-n-propylhydantoin;
[0624] - 5-ethyl-5-methylhydantoin;
[0625] - 5-hydroxy-5-methylhydantoin;
[0626] - 5-hydroxymethylhydantoin;
[0627] - 1-allylhydantoin;
[0628] - 1-aminohydantoin;
[0629] - hydantoin-5-acetic acid;
[0630] - 4-amino-1,2,4-triazolone-3,5-dione;
[0631] - hexahydro-l,2,4,5-tetrazine-3,6-dione;
[0632] - 5-methyl-l,3,5-triazinon-2-one;
[0633] - l-methyltetrahydropyrimidin-2-one;
[0634] - 2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine;
[0635] - urazole;
[0636] - 4-methylurazole;
[0637] - orotic acid;
[0638] - dihydroxyorotic acid;
[0639] - 2,4,5-trihydroxypyrimidine;
[0640] - 2-hydroxy-4-methylpyrimidine;
[0641] - 4,5-diamino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine;
[0642] - 1,3-dimethylbarbituric acid;
[0643] - cyanuric acid;
[0644] - l-methyl-hexahydropyrimidine-2,4-dione;
[0645] - 1,3-dimethyl-3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-1H-pyrimidinone;
[0646] - 5-(hydroxymethyl-2,4-(1H,3H)-pyrimidinedione;
[0647] - 2,4-dihydroxypyrimidine-5-carboxylic acid;
[0648] - 6-azathymine;
[0649] - 5-methyl-l,3,5-triazinan-2-one;
[0650] - N-carbamoylmalemic acid; and
[0651] - alloxan monohydrate.
[0652] Preferably, the protein denaturing agent is chosen from urea and hydroxyethylurea, and more preferably urea.
[0653] The quantity of the protein denaturing agent(s) in the treatment composition of the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the treatment composition. - Water
[0654] The treatment composition may include water. In this embodiment, the treatment composition is not anhydrous.
[0655] The amount of water in the treatment composition can be from 20% to 98% in weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight and more preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0656] The treatment composition may also include at least one other optional ingredient, chosen in particular from: thickeners; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; preservatives; antibacterial agents; chelating agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, in particular conditioning polymers, such as cationic polymers; perfumes; silanes; crosslinking agents; and surfactants, including anionic, cationic, and amphoteric surfactants. The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients from the list above.
[0657] The above-mentioned optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal quantities that can be easily determined by those skilled in the art and which may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight in the composition. Those skilled in the art shall take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the compositions used for the present invention. [Kit]
[0658] The present invention also relates to a remodeling kit, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising a combination of compositions A to C of the present invention. The treatment composition may also be included in the combination.
[0659] The present invention also relates to a remodeling kit, preferably for smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:
[0660] a composition A, comprising:
[0661] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
[0662] (b) at least one compound, different from (a) the compound, selected from the group consisting in ketoacids, their salts and mixtures thereof,
[0663] a composition B comprising:
[0664] (c) at least one silicone, and,
[0665] a composition C comprising:
[0666] (c) at least one silicone; and / or
[0667] (d) at least one polyol.
[0668] In the kit according to the present invention, compositions A to C may be supplied separately, for example, in different containers. Also, when the kit includes the treatment composition, this may be supplied separately, by for example, in different containers.
[0669] The kit according to the present invention may further include at least one heating element, such as an iron or a simmer, which is capable of supplying the keratinous fibers with a temperature greater than 50 °C, preferably greater than 100 °C and more preferably greater than 150 °C.
[0670] The heating element in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C. This temperature may be below 250 °C, preferably below 240 °C, and more preferably below 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50 °C and below 250 °C, preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.
[0671] Any iron or simmer, including any conventional heated iron or heated simmer, can be used as the above iron or simmer in the kit according to the present invention.
[0672] It is preferable that the heating element be a heating iron or a simmer, as explained in the section entitled [Process] above. Also, the details of the composition used in the kit according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Process] above. [Use]
[0673] The present invention may relate to the use of the combination of compositions A to C of the present invention for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair. Also, when the kit includes the treatment composition, this may be supplied separately, for example, in different containers.
[0674] Thus, the present invention also relates to the use of a combination of compositions A to C for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, in which
[0675] a composition A, comprising:
[0676] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
[0677] (b) at least one compound, different from (a) the compound, selected from the group consisting in ketoacids, their salts and mixtures thereof,
[0678] a composition B comprising:
[0679] (c) at least one silicone, and,
[0680] a composition C comprising:
[0681] (c) at least one silicone; and / or
[0682] (d) at least one polyol.
[0683] The present invention can be used by heating the keratinous fiber, preferably hair. In the use of the present invention, heating can be provided after application of compositions A and B to the keratinous fiber.
[0684] Heating is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C and more preferably above 150 °C. This temperature may be below 250 °C, preferably below 240 °C, and more preferably below 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50 °C and below 250 °C, preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.
[0685] Details of the compositions for use according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Process] above. EXAMPLES
[0686] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Preparation]
[0687] Compositions A to C were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 to 3. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" as raw materials. In composition B, Belsil ADM LOG 1 (containing 15% active ingredient) sold by Wacker, and Belsil ADM 4000 E sold by Wacker (containing 57% active ingredient) were used for the amodimethicone.
[0688] [Tables 1] Composition A Isopropyl Myristate 8 Cetearyl Alcohol 9.5 Steareth-20 4 Pentylene Glycol 5 Steareth-2 4 Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (30% wt. AM) (1) 5 Cetyl Esters 1 Glyoxylic Acid (50% wt. AM) (2) 14 Levulinic Acid (60% wt. AM) (3) 4 Ethanol 0.25 Viscosity Adjuster 0.5 pH Adjuster q.s. pH 3.0 Water q.s. 100 1. sold by BASF under the name DEHYQUART F 30 (containing 30% active ingredient) 2. sold by the company WEYLCHEM under the name GLYOXO-HIGH PURE 50 (containing 50% active ingredient) 3. sold by the company DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK) under the name DERMOSOFT 700 B (containing 60% active ingredient)
[0689] [Tables2] Composition B Cetearyl alcohol 6 Cetyl esters 1.5 Behentrimonium chloride (80% by weight AM) 3 Amodimethicone 4.8 Trideceth-5 0.9 Trideceth-10 0.2 Trideceth-6 0.2 Cetrimonium chloride 0.05 Preservatives 0.5 Glycerin 2 Water q.s. 100 pH 4.0
[0690] [Tables3] Composition C Water q.s. 100 pH adjuster q.s. pH 5.0 Butylene glycol 4 Viscosity adjuster 0.5 PEG-240 / HDI copolymer Bis-de-cyltetradeceth-20 Ether (30% wt. AM) (4) 3 Preservative 0.7 Undecane (and) Tridecane 1 Aminopropyl dimethicone (55% wt. AM) (5) 8.83 Isononyl isononanoate 3
[0691] (4) sold by the company ADEKA under the name ADEKANOL GT-730 (containing 30% of active ingredient).
[0692] (5) sold by SHIN ETSU under the name X-22-9686 (containing 55% of active ingredient). Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1 Example 1
[0693] 1 g of Chinese curly hair (type 3) with a length of 27 cm was washed with 0.07 g of a routine shampoo. The formulation of the routine shampoo is shown in Table 4 below. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials. The hair strand was rinsed thoroughly with tap water.
[0694] [Tables4] Routine Shampoo C14-C16 Olefin Sodium Sulfonate (38% wt. AM) 18.4 Cocamidopropyl Betaine (38% wt. AM) 16.8 Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid 2.2 Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside (60% wt. AM) 1.5 Polyquatemium-67 0.15 Preservative 0.61 pH Adjuster qs. pH 5.3 Viscosity Adjuster 1.15
[0695] Composition A was applied in an amount of 0.6 g to wet hair (step (i)). The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25 °C). The hair strand was rinsed thoroughly with tap water.
[0696] Next, composition B was applied in an amount of 0.25 g to the hair strand (step (ii)). The hair strand was rinsed thoroughly with tap water.
[0697] Next, composition C was applied in an amount of 0.03 g to the hair strand (step (iii)). The hair strand was then blow-dried without rinsing.
[0698] The hair strand was subjected to straightening by 3 passes with a straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180 C, for 4 seconds / pass (step (iv)). Example 2
[0699] Example 1 was repeated, but in addition to the steps of the process according to Example 1, the hair strand was pretreated with the following hair treatment composition before step (i) in the process according to Example 1 (step (v)). The for The composition of hair treatment A is presented in Table 5 below. The numerical values for the quantities of ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials.
[0700] Specifically, after washing with routine shampoo and before step (i) in the process according to Example 1, 0.2 g of hair treatment composition A was applied to the hair strand (step (v)). Then, step (i) was carried out without rinsing prior to step (i).
[0701] In this example, the hair treatment composition was used as a pretreatment agent for composition A.
[0702] [Tables5] Hair treatment composition: Urea 5, Propylene glycol 10, Glycerin 20, Glycine 1, Preservatives 1.2, pH adjuster q.s. pH 7.8, Water q.s. 100 Example 3
[0703] Example 1 was repeated, but in addition to the steps of the process according to Example 1, the hair strand was treated with the following hair treatment composition between steps (i) and (ii) of the process according to Example 1 (step (v)). The formulation of the hair treatment composition is the same as that shown in Table 5 above.
[0704] Specifically, 0.2 g of the hair treatment composition was applied to the hair strand (step (v)) after rinsing out composition A in the process according to Example 1. Then, the hair treatment composition was rinsed out, followed by step (ii) in the process according to Example 1.
[0705] In this example, the hair treatment composition was used as a post-treatment agent for composition A. Comparative Example 1
[0706] A sample according to Comparative Example 1 was prepared in the same way as Example 1, but the applications of compositions B and C were not carried out. Thus, steps (ii) and (iii) were not carried out in this process.
[0707] The processes according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1 are summarized in Tables 9 and 10 below. [Assessment]
[0708] The following assessments were carried out.
[0709] (Smoothing effect)
[0710] After keeping each of the treated hair strands at room temperature (25 °C) for three hours, the level of smoothing of the treated hair strand was visually assessed on the basis of three aspects, "smoothing performance", "frizz level" and "volume" according to the following criteria.
[0711] 5: Excellent
[0712] 4: Very good
[0713] 3: Good
[0714] 2: Passable
[0715] 1: Bad
[0716] (Sensory Appreciation)
[0717] The treated hair strands were evaluated in terms of "squeakiness", "ease of combing" and "ease of application of the hair straightener" according to the following criteria. - Creaking
[0718] In each of the processes, during the final rinsing step before blow-drying and straightening, the damp hair was squeezed between the fingers by a qualified person. The friction felt and the sound produced were evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0719] 4: No squeaking
[0720] 3: Less squeaking
[0721] 2: Slight creaking
[0722] 1: Loud screeching - Easy to comb
[0723] The hair strand treated in each of the processes was combed by a qualified person and resistance to combing was evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0724] 4: Combing can be done almost without any sensation of friction
[0725] 3: Combing is easy with low friction
[0726] 2: Combing requires effort, very strong friction
[0727] 1: Combing impossible - Ease of application of the hair straightener
[0728] At step (iv) of each of the processes, the resistance to sliding of the iron in The application of the hair straightener was evaluated by a qualified person according to the following criteria.
[0729] 4: The application of the iron is smooth and without resistance
[0730] 3: Applying the iron is easy as usual
[0731] 2: Applying the iron requires effort; the iron gets stuck at the tips.
[0732] 1: Applying the iron evenly is very difficult; the iron frequently jams
[0733] The results are shown in Table 6 below.
[0734] [Tableauxô] Order of steps Smoothing effect Squeakiness Ease of combing Ease of application of the hair straightener Ex. 1 (i)^(ii)^(iii)^(iv) 4 4 4 4 Ex. 2 (v)^(i)^(ii)^(iii)^(iv) 5 3 4 4 Ex. 3 (i)^(v)^(ii)^(iii)^(iv) 5 3 4 4 Ex. Comp. 1 (iW(iv)) 3 3 2 2
[0735] (Sustainability)
[0736] The durability of the effects on the hair strand was evaluated. In particular, the durability with regard to the "smoothing effect" and "ease of combing" was evaluated with the hair strand after one shampoo wash using a routine shampoo composition. The formulation of the routine shampoo composition is as shown in Table 4 above. The hair strand was thoroughly rinsed with tap water and blow-dried (for approximately 90 seconds until dry) after shampooing.
[0737] The "smoothing effect" and "ease of combing" were measured in the same way in the same manner as above, and the evaluations were made according to the following criteria: - Smoothing effect
[0738] 5: Excellent
[0739] 4: Very good
[0740] 3: Good
[0741] 2: Passable
[0742] 1: Bad - Easy to comb
[0743] 4: Combing can be done almost without any sensation of friction
[0744] 3: Combing is easy with low friction
[0745] 2: Combing requires effort, very strong friction
[0746] 1: Combing impossible
[0747] The results are shown in Table 7 below.
[0748] [Tables7] Order of steps Durability Smoothing effect Ease of combing Ex. 1 (i)^(ii)^(iii)^(iv) 3 4 Ex. 2 (v)—>(i)—>(ii)—>(iii)—>(iv) 4 4 Ex. 3 (i)^(v)^(ii)^(iii)^(iv) 4 4 Ex. Comp. 1 (iW(iv) 2 2
[0749] As can be seen from the results in Table 6, it is clear that the processes according to the examples, which include steps (i) to (iii), provided the keratin fibers with an improved smoothing effect as well as good sensory effects, such as "squeakiness," "ease of combing," and "ease of application with a hair straightener." Furthermore, as can be seen from the results in Table 7, the processes according to the examples provided the keratin fibers with a durability of the effects of the present invention.
Claims
Claims
1. A process for remodeling, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition A to the keratinous fibers, wherein composition A comprises: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and (b) at least one compound, different from (a) compound, selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts and mixtures thereof, (ii) applying a composition B to the keratinous fibers, wherein composition B comprises: (c) at least one silicone; (iii) applying a composition C to the keratinous fibers, wherein composition C comprises: (c) at least one silicone;and / or (d) at least one polyol, and (iv) optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, and more preferably above 150°C, wherein the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i), followed by step (iii) then the optional step (iv).;
2. The process of claim 1, wherein the (b) compound is selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof.
3. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the (c) silicone in composition B is selected from amino-modified silicones.
4. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the (c) silicone in composition C is selected from amino-modified silicones.
5. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the amount of the (c) silicone(s) in composition C is from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
6. A process according to any preceding claim, in which composition C is a leave-in type cosmetic composition.
7. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the pH of composition A is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less.
8. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the process does not include an application of ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratinous fibers.
9. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the process does not include applying a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers.
10. Kit for remodeling, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: a composition A comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and (b) at least one compound, different from the (a) compound, selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts and mixtures thereof, a composition B comprising: (c) at least one silicone, and a composition C comprising: (c) at least one silicone; and / or (d) at least one polyol.