COMPOSITION ADAPTED TO KERATINOUS FIBERS
A composition using glyoxylic acid and aminosilicone addresses the need for long-lasting hair straightening without chemicals, providing effective reshaping with reduced damage and odor, and improved manageability.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023008992
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-08-28
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-17
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-08-28
AI Technical Summary
Conventional methods for straightening keratinous fibers, such as hair, either provide short-lasting styling with heated irons or long-lasting styling with damaging chemicals, and there is a need for a method that offers longer-lasting effects without the drawbacks of chemical treatments.
A composition comprising glyoxylic acid or its derivatives, keto acids, aminosilicone, and optionally betaine and fatty amine, applied without ammonia or oxidizing agents, to reshape keratinous fibers at temperatures above 50°C, providing long-lasting smoothing or curling effects.
The composition achieves longer-lasting reshaping of keratinous fibers with reduced damage, improved manageability, and reduced odor, while maintaining the style even after shampooing, and offering a shorter processing time compared to conventional methods.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION ADAPTED TO KERATINOUS FIBERS Technical field
[0001] The present invention mainly relates to a composition which is suitable for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Straightening keratinous fibers such as hair by heating the keratinous fibers with an iron is common, making unruly keratinous fibers manageable and reducing the volume and improving the appearance of the keratinous fibers. Such a straightening process using a heated iron is convenient for quick styling, but the hairstyle only lasts for a short period, for example until the next shampoo. Many consumers need a long-lasting straightening process.
[0003] On the other hand, conventional permanent straightening processes using a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, as well as an oxidizing agent, with heating, can provide keratin fibers with long-lasting styling, but they have several disadvantages such as a long processing time, damage to the keratin fibers and a bad odor.
[0004] Document WO 2014 / 131469 discloses a method for straightening keratinous fibers by heating with an iron, without the use of reducing and oxidizing agents, in which glyoxylic acid is used to straighten the keratinous fibers.
[0005] Document US-A-2023 / 742 discloses a semi-permanent hair straightening composition including 15% to 20% by weight of glyoxylic acid and 0.1% to 5% by weight of levulinic acid. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0006] There remains a need to improve the remodeling of keratinous fibers based on treatment of the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof.
[0007] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which is useful for remodeling keratinous fibers such as hair, based on treating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, which can provide the keratinous fibers with longer-lasting remodeling effects.
[0008] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; b. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof; and c. at least one aminosilicone.
[0009] The amount of the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 14% by weight, and more preferably less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0010] Compound (d) may be selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.
[0011] The amount of the compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less and, more preferably, 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0012] The aminosilicone (c) may be selected from the group consisting of amodimethicone, aminopropyldimethicone and a mixture thereof.
[0013] The amount of the aminosilicone or aminosilicones (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0014] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) water.
[0015] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one betaine compound.
[0016] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one fatty amine.
[0017] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less.
[0018] The composition according to the present invention may not comprise any ammonia or thiol compound, or may comprise less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of ammonia or thiol compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0019] The composition according to the present invention may not comprise any reducing agent or oxidizing agent, or may comprise less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0020] The composition according to the present invention may be intended for the remodeling, preferably the smoothing, of keratinous fibers such as hair.
[0021] The present invention also relates to a method for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: i. application of the composition according to the present invention to keratinous fibers; ii. optional rinsing of the keratinous fibers with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and iii. remodeling, preferably smoothing of keratinous fibers, preferably at a temperature of more than 50°C, more preferably more than 100°C and even more preferably more than 150°C.
[0022] The present invention also relates to a kit for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:
[0023] at least one selected from the group consisting of an iron, a curler, a comb, a dryer and a combination thereof, preferably at least one heated iron, a heated curler, a heated comb or a heated dryer which is capable of providing the keratinous fibers with a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 1000°C and more preferably above 150°C; and
[0024] the composition according to the present invention. Best mode for carrying out the invention
[0025] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition which is useful for remodeling keratinous fibers such as hair, based on treating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, and which can provide the keratinous fibers with longer-lasting remodeling effects.
[0026] Thus, the present invention mainly relates to a composition intended for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; a. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one aminosilicone.
[0027] The present invention can improve the remodeling of keratinous fibers such as hair, based on treatment of the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, providing longer-lasting remodeling effects.
[0028] The remodeling of keratinous fibers, such as hair, here includes smoothing or the curling of keratinous fibers.
[0029] The present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with longer-lasting remodeling effects. Thus, the present invention can lengthen or prolong the remodeling effects of keratinous fibers provided by the use of a composition including only glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the straightened or curled shape of keratinous fibers, or can prevent or reduce loss of the straightened or curled shape of keratinous fibers over time.
[0030] For example, if keratinous fibers are originally wavy, the present invention may provide better prevention against a return of the keratinous fibers to their original wavy shape, after straightening the keratinous fibers, particularly after shampooing.
[0031] The present invention can also provide keratinous fibers with sufficient immediate remodeling effects. Thus, keratinous fibers treated with the present invention for straightening may have less volume or less frizz due to the reduction of curls of the keratinous fibers. The remodeling effects provided by the present invention can last for a long time, for example, even after shampooing the keratinous fibers. Thus, the present invention can also provide the shape of keratinous fibers with good shampoo resistance.
[0032] The present invention can cause less damage to keratinous fibers compared to conventional permanent remodeling methods, because the present invention does not need to use reducing / oxidizing agents. Therefore, it can be easy to comb the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention. Thus, the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention can be easy to manage. Furthermore, the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention can be stronger than those treated by conventional permanent remodeling technologies.
[0033] Furthermore, the present invention can use little or no ammonia or thiol compound, and therefore, the odor during the use of the present invention can be reduced compared to conventional methods that require the use of ammonia or a thiol compound. In addition, the present invention can have good ease of use, for example, a short processing time.
[0034] The present invention will be described in detail below. [Composition]
[0035] The composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; a. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one aminosilicone.
[0036] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably, a cosmetic composition for remodeling keratinous fibers, and even more preferably, a cosmetic composition for remodeling keratinous fibers in a single step. It is particularly preferable that the keratinous fibers are hair.
[0037] (Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives)
[0038] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof.
[0039] A single type of compound (a) may be used, or two or more different types of compounds (a) may be used in combination.
[0040] Compound (a) is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof. In other words, compound (a) is selected from glyoxylic acid and derivatives thereof.
[0041] As glyoxylic acid solvates, mention may be made, for example, of glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.
[0042] Examples of salts of glyoxylic acid that may be mentioned are alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate, and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.
[0043] As glyoxylic acid esters, mention may be made, for example, of alkyl esters glyoxylic acid such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.
[0044] As glyoxylic acid amides, mention may be made, for example, of N- glyoxyloylcarbocysteine and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acids.
[0045] It is preferable to use glyoxylic acid as compound (a).
[0046] The amount of the compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0047] The amount of the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 14% by weight, and more preferably less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0048] Thus, the amount of the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to less than 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to less than 14% by weight and more preferably, from 1% to less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0049] In one embodiment, the amount of the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 12% by weight or less, preferably 11% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0050] Thus, in this embodiment, the amount of the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 11% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [0051 ] (Keto acid)
[0052] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from keto acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof. Two or more of the compounds (b) may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of compound (b) or a combination of different types of compounds (b) may be used.
[0053] The ketonic acids may be chosen from α-keto acids, β-keto acids, γ-keto acids and mixtures thereof.
[0054] The α-keto acids may be compounds represented by the general formula (I):
[0055] R'-C(=O)-COOH (I)
[0056] in which • R1 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.
[0057] Examples of α-keto acid include pyruvic acid.
[0058] The [3-keto] acids can be represented by the general formula (II):
[0059] R2-C(=O)-R3-COOH (II)
[0060] in which • R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and • R3 denotes a methylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.
[0061] Examples of [3-keto] acid include acetoacetic acid.
[0062] The γ-keto acids can be represented by the general formula (III):
[0063] R2-C(=O)-R4-COOH (III)
[0064] in which • R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and • R4 denotes an ethylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.
[0065] Examples of γ-keto acids include levulinic acid.
[0066] The ketonic acid salts may be alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of ketonic acid such as sodium or potassium salts of ketonic acid, and magnesium or calcium salts of ketonic acid.
[0067] It is preferable to use, as compound(s) (b), γ-keto acid, and more preferably, levulinic acid and / or a salt thereof such as sodium levulinate.
[0068] The amount of the compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0069] The amount of the compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less and, more preferably, 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0070] Thus, the amount of the compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0071] In one embodiment, the amount of the compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0072] Thus, in this embodiment, the amount of the compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0073] In another embodiment, the compound(s) (b) may be present in a lower amount than the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention. For example, the weight ratio of the amount of the compound(s) (a) to the amount of the compound(s) (b) included in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1:1 to 15:1, preferably from 1:1 to 10:1 and more preferably from 1:1 to 4:1.
[0074] (Aminosilicone)
[0075] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one amino-silicone. Two or more amino-silicones may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of amino-silicone or a combination of different types of amino-silicones may be used.
[0076] As aminosilicone (c), any aminosilicone compound in the field of cosmetics can be used.
[0077] The term “aminosilicone” herein designates a silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group or at least one quaternary ammonium group.
[0078] As aminosilicone (c) which can be used in the present invention, the following compounds can be mentioned: i. Polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):
[0079] wherein x' and y' are independently integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between about 5,000 and 500,000 g / mol; i. Amino-silicones corresponding to formula (B):
[0080] R'aG(3.a)-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'(2.b))mO-SiG(3.a)R'a. (B)
[0081] in which: • G independently denotes a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl group, OH, or a C1-C8 alkyl group, for example methyl, or a C1-C8 alkoxy group, for example methoxy, • a and a' independently denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0; • b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1; • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in par particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
[0082] R' independently denotes a monovalent group of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:
[0083] -NR"-QN(R")2
[0084] -N(R")2
[0085] -N+(R")3 A
[0086] -N+H(R")2 A
[0087] -N+H2(R") A
[0088] -NR"-Q-N+R"H2 A
[0089] -NR"-Q-N+(R")2H A
[0090] -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A,
[0091] in which • R" independently denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, a benzyl group or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon group, for example a C1-C20 alkyl group; • Q denotes a linear or branched CrH2r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and • A represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0092] A group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" of formula (C): | 9H3 । 1 | --[O Sâ---1---[O Ss (OS^CH^ | CH3 1 | (0¾ 1 Jn NH (C.:> | | I NH. 1 __ __I m
[0093] in which n and m have the meaning given above, in formula B.The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the aminosilicone (C) may range from 100,000 to 2,500,000, preferably from 300,000 to 2,000,000 and more preferably from 500,000 to 1,500,000.
[0094] Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones of the following formula (D) or (E): CH3 R. çh3 R;--— ~O™Si-- — -O s af O 1 (CHA CH, ch. n NM CH, NHa m
[0095] in which: • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 1,000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; • R1, R2 and R3 independently represent a C1-hydroxy or C1-alkoxy group. C 4> in which at least one of the groups R 1 to R 3 denotes an alkoxy group.
[0096] The alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.
[0097] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
[0098] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the aminosilicone (D) preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.
[0099] in which: • p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; knowing that p can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and that q can designate a number from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; • R1 and R2 independently represent a CrC4 hydroxy or alkoxy group where at least one of the R1 or R2 groups denotes an alkoxy group.
[0100] The alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.
[0101] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
[0102] The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the aminosilicone (E) preferably ranges from 2,000 to 200,000, even more particularly from 5,000 to 100,000 and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000.
[0103] Commercial products corresponding to these silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other aminosilicones whose structure is different from formula (D) or (E).
[0104] A product containing an aminosilicone of structure (D) is marketed by Wacker under the name BELSIL ADM 652.
[0105] A product containing an aminosilicone of structure (E) is marketed by Wacker under the name FLUID WR 1300®.
[0106] Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (F): çh3 r ç H snr 9^ n çh3 HO—-s—|o—to—j—'10 — Si--1—0-—^!—OH CH, I CH || ? | CH, " H- * -K NH
[0107]
[0108]
[0109]
[0110] ï ; I: $ :^1 | HH, J m in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10; A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably linear. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the aminosilicone (F) will prefer probably from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly, from 3,500 to 200,000. A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone marketed under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow. Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (G): H,( CHg j 0Hs ■If~~ p---If— ch3 ch3 n ch, O Si To i HH! ““ NH. ““ —Y n CH, S;—CH, CH, [YES] in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10; A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 4 to 8 atoms of carbon and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.
[0112] The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the aminosilicone (G) preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly, from 1,000 to 200,000.
[0113] A silicone having this formula is for example DOWSIL™ 2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow.
[0114] i. Amino-silicones corresponding to the formula (H): in which: R5 independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C rCi8 alkyl or C2-Ci8 alkenyl group, for example methyl; R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a CrCi8 alkylene group or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy group, for example CrC8, linked to Si via a SiC bond; Q is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (e.g., acetate); r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; s represents an average statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
[0115] Such aminosilicones are described more particularly in US patent 4,185,087.
[0116] i. Quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I): in which: R7 independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 18 alkenyl group or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; R6 independently represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a CrCi8 alkylene group or a divalent C1-Ci8 alkyleneoxy group, for example CrC8, linked to Si via a SiC bond; R8 independently represents a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group or a group -R6-NHCOR7 ; X is an anion such as a halide ion, especially a chloride, or an organic acid salt (e.g. acetate); r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;
[0117] These silicones are described, for example, in the patent application EP-A 0 530 974. i. Amino silicones of formula (J):
[0118] in which: • Rb R2, R3 and R4 independently denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group; • R5 denotes a CrC4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group; • m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; • n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; • and in which x is chosen such that the amine index is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g; i. Multiblock polyoxyalkylenated aminosilicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.
[0119] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:
[0120] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R'')-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-]
[0121] or alternatively
[0122] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]
[0123] in which: • a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; • b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5,000; • R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; • R independently represents a linear or branched divalent C2-C[2] hydrocarbon group optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R independently denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- group; preferably R independently denotes a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- group; • R' independently represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon group, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- group; preferably R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-,
[0124] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.
[0125] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of the copolymer in a 30% solution of dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
[0126] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the above aminosilicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.
[0127] We can notably cite the silicones marketed under the names SILSOFT A-843 or SILSOFT A+ by Momentive. i. Alkylaminosilicones corresponding to the formulas (K1 and K) below:
[0128] in which: • R, R' and R" independently represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkyl group, • A represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000;
[0129] in which: • x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5,000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2,000 and in particular, from 100 to 1,000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100; • RI and R2, independently preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular, 12 to 20 carbon atoms; • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0130] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular, 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched.
[0131] In particular, the following divalent groups may be mentioned: -CH2CH2CH2 - and -CH2 CH(CH3 )CH2 -.
[0132] Preferably, RI and R2 are independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular, 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made, in particular, of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially RI and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
[0133] Preferably, the silicone is of formula (K) with: • x ranging from 10 to 2,000 and in particular from 100 to 1,000; • ranging from 1 to 100;
[0134] A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and, in particular, 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and • RI and R2 being independently linear saturated alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, RI and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
[0135] A preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone.
[0136] In particular, mention may be made of the silicone marketed under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.
[0137] The aminosilicones of the present disclosure may also be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, for example terminal or side aminopropyl groups, for example those of formula (A), (B) or (C): Hh / OU \ CM 1LNUH Ol a'H t U AH' " ■ 4 .....' ] OJI naked, \ naked / "or ' \ " * x» (A) (C)
[0138] In formula (A): the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the silicone is between 500 and 55,000. Examples of aminosilicone (A) include those marketed under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by the company Gelest.
[0139] In formula (B), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the silicone is between 1,000 and 55,000. Examples of silicone (B) include those marketed under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin-Etsu Chemical.
[0140] In formula (C), the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the silicone is between 500 and 3,000. As an example of silicone (C), mention may be made of those marketed under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.
[0141] Preferably, the aminosilicone (c) according to the present invention is amodimethicone such as amodimethicone marketed under the name KF 8020 from the supplier Shin-Etsu Chemical, or the name SILSOFT 253 from the supplier MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS. Another preferred aminosilicone is an amodi-methicone of formula (F) marketed under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow.
[0142] In other embodiments, the aminosilicone (c) according to the present invention is selected from bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (marketed under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive).
[0143] Another preferred aminosilicone (c) which can be used in the composition of the present invention is aminopropyldimethicone, for example, aminopropyldimethicone marketed as KF-8015 from Shin-Etsu Chemical.
[0144] Amino silicones suitable for use according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched amino silicones having a viscosity ranging from 5x106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example, from 1x105 to 1 m2 / s.
[0145] It is preferable to select the aminosilicone (c) from the group consisting of aminodimethicone, aminopropyldimethicone and a mixture thereof.
[0146] The amount of the aminosilicone or aminosilicones (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0147] The amount of the aminosilicone or aminosilicones (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0148] Thus, the amount of the aminosilicone or aminosilicones (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0149] (Water)
[0150] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) water.
[0151] Thus, if the composition according to the present invention comprises water (d), the composition according to the present invention is not anhydrous.
[0152] The amount of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0153] Furthermore, the amount of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0154] The amount of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0155] (Betaine compound)
[0156] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one betaine compound. A single type of betaine compound (e) may be used, or two or more different types of compounds (e) may be used in combination.
[0157] The term "betaine compound" herein refers to an amphoteric compound having a positively charged cationic moiety and a negatively charged anionic moiety, wherein no hydrogen atom is bonded to a positively charged atom in the positively charged cationic moiety and the positively charged cationic moiety may not be adjacent to the negatively charged anionic moiety.
[0158] For the purposes of the present invention, the betaine compound (e) herein is not a surfactant, which comprises at least one hydrophilic portion and at least one hydrophobic portion.
[0159] The positively charged cationic moiety in the betaine (e) compound includes, but is not limited to, a quaternary ammonium cation, a phosphonium cation, and a sulfonium cation. Preferably, the betaine (e) compound includes a quaternary ammonium cation as the positively charged cationic moiety.
[0160] The negatively charged anionic moiety in the betaine compound (e) includes, but but not limited to a carboxylate union.
[0161] The betaine compound (e) may be selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine, L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof, and may preferably be trimethylglycine.
[0162] The amount of the betaine compound(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0163] On the other hand, the amount of the betaine compound(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0164] The amount of the betaine compound(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0165] (Fatty amine)
[0166] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one fatty amine. Two or more fatty amines may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty amine or a combination of different types of fatty amines may be used.
[0167] By "fatty amines" is meant primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or salts thereof. The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not quaternized. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
[0168] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (f) at least one fatty amine comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0169] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (f) at least one fatty amine chosen from tertiary fatty amines.
[0170] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more tertiary fatty amines chosen from fatty amidoamines.
[0171] The fatty amine (f) which can be used in the context of the present invention can be chosen from the fatty amines of formula (IV) below:
[0172] RN(R')2(IV)
[0173] in which: • R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 30 atoms of carbon, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular, a C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted alkyl radical, preferably a C6-C30, better still C8-C24, linear or branched alkyl radical or a C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched alkenyl radical; and • R', which can be the same or different, represent a hy radical monovalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted carbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.
[0174] The fatty amine (f) corresponding to formula (IV) above may be chosen, for example, from dimethyllauramine, dimethylbehenamine, dimethylcocamine, dimethylmyristamine, dimethylpalmitamine, dimethylstearamine, dimethyltallowamine, dimethylsoyamine and mixtures thereof.
[0175] The fatty amine (f) which can be used in the context of the present invention can also be chosen from fatty amidoamines, preferably fatty amidoamines of formula (V) below:
[0176] R-CO-N(H)-R”-N(R’)2 (V)
[0177] in which:
[0178] R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted alkyl radical, preferably a C5-C29, better still C5-C23, linear or branched alkyl radical, or a C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched alkenyl radical;
[0179] R'1, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical divalent containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms; and
[0180] R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical monovalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.
[0181] The fatty amine (f) corresponding to formula (V) above may be chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine marketed by the company Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, laurami-dopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, lacocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkami-dopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicami-dopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0182] Preferably, the fatty amine (f) may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, preferentially from fatty amidoamines of formula (V) above.
[0183] It is preferable that the fatty amine (f) is stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0184] The chemical structure of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine can be represented by the formula (VI) below: I (VI) O
[0185] in which • R denotes a Cp alkyl group for stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0186] Thus, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprises stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0187] The amount of the fatty amine(s) (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0188] The amount of the fatty amine(s) (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0189] Thus, the amount of the fatty amine(s) (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0190] (Oil)
[0191] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
[0192] Herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste or a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oil(s) (g), those generally used in Cosmetic oils can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0193] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0194] The oil (f) may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
[0195] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0196] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0197] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0198] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0199] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0200] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0201] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.
[0202] As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of acids can be used. C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0203] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0204] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C6-C30 and preferably in C[2-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0205] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0206] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0207] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0208] An example that may be mentioned is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0209] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0210] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, tri- glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0211] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0212] Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0213] These silicone oils may also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones which may be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.
[0214] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0215] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
[0216] cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. We can also cite cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 marketed by the company Union Carbide, with the formula: q D ...------og —? ÇHa '--------------------------------J with D”: ° ~~ with D?: "" & ™ O -
[0217] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2',2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
[0218] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atonies and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5x106 m2 / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.
[0219] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0220] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils marketed by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • oils from the Mirasil® range marketed by the company Rhodia; • Dow Corning 200 range oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; • Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0221] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.
[0222] Among the silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples which may be cited include the products marketed under the following names: • Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia; • oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; • DOWSIL™ 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow; • silicones from Bayer’s PK range, such as the PK20 product; • certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0223] Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain poly-ethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu Chemical, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0224] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: • lower C6-C16 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam^ and squalane.
[0225] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0226] It is preferable that the oil (g) is chosen from polar oils, more preferably ester oils, and even more preferably monoester oils.
[0227] The amount of the oil or oils (g) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0228] Furthermore, the amount of the oil or oils (g) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0229] The amount of the oil or oils (g) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Fatty alcohol]
[0230] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (h) at least one fatty alcohol. A single type of fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohol may be used in combination.
[0231] The term "fatty" herein means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.
[0232] The fatty alcohol (h) may have the structure R-OH in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 atoms of carbon, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C12-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0233] As non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol (h), mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, pahnitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
[0234] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
[0235] Fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohols may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
[0236] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).
[0237] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol (h) is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.
[0238] The amount of the alcohol or fatty alcohols (h) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0239] Furthermore, the amount of the alcohol or fatty alcohols (h) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0240] The amount of the alcohol or fatty alcohols (h) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0241] (pH)
[0242] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less, which is measured at 25°C.
[0243] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 3 or more, which is measured at 25°C.
[0244] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 6 and more preferably 3 to 5, which is measured at 25°C.
[0245] (Alkaline agent)
[0246] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.
[0247] The alkaline agent is different from the fatty amine (f).
[0248] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention includes one or more alkaline agent(s), if compound (a) or compound (b) can serve to reduce the pH of the composition.
[0249] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the alkaline agent is non-volatile. It is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.
[0250] Examples of the inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of the alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As the inorganic alkali agent, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable.
[0251] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.
[0252] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups. In particular, the alkanolamines may be chosen from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
[0253] Diamines can be described by the structure (B) below: Rx R (B)
[0254] wherein W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof.
[0255] The amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0256] Furthermore, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0257] Thus, the amount of alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0258] (Acid)
[0259] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid which is different from compound (a) or compound (b). Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.
[0260] The acid may be used to correct the pH of the composition according to the present invention.
[0261] As an acid, mention may be made of all inorganic or organic acids which are commonly used in cosmetic products, such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HCl). HCl is preferable.
[0262] The amount of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0263] Furthermore, the amount of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0264] Thus, the amount of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0265] (Other optional ingredients)
[0266] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one other optional ingredient, chosen in particular from: anionic surfactants and amphoteric agents; thickeners; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; antibacterial agents such as benzoic acid; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol; chelating agents; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, particularly conditioning polymers, such as cationic polymers; perfumes; silanes; crosslinking agents and surfactants including anionic, cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants. The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients listed above.
[0267] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; other polyols such as glycerol; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers.
[0268] Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the above optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal amounts which can be easily determined by a person skilled in the art and which may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as the amounts thereof, so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions used for the present invention.
[0269] (Ammonia and thiol compound)
[0270] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is free of ammonia or thiol compound. The expression "free of ammonia or thiol compound" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of ammonia or a thiol compound. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or thiol compound, in particular no ammonia or thiol compound.
[0271] Due to the very small amount or absence of ammonia and / or thiol compound, the bad odor during use of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced or prevented.
[0272] The thiol compound herein refers to a compound which has at least one thiol group (-SH).
[0273] The thiol compound may be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, in particular its C1-C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and its derivatives, in particular its esters; cysteine and its derivatives, including its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and cysteine alkyl esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, including its s-alkyl derivatives; and salts thereof.
[0274] As the above salts, mention may be made, for example, of ammonium salts; primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts. As the primary, secondary or tertiary amine, for example, mention may be made of monoethanolamine, di-isopropanolamine or triethanolamine, respectively.
[0275] Other examples of thiol reducing agent include, but are not limited to, N-mercapto alkyl sugar amides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, [3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives; thiomalic acid; panthetine; N-(mercaptoalkyl)co-hydroxyalkyl amides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 368 763; aminomer-captoalkyl amides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 432 000 and alkylaminomer-captoalkylamides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 514 282; 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2 / 3) and the mixture based on 2-hydroxymethyl-1-ethyl thioglycolate (67 / 33) described in French patent application No. 2 679 448.
[0276] (Reducing agent and oxidizing agent)
[0277] The composition according to the present invention may comprise a reducing agent; however, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprises a reduced amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent, preferably is free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent.
[0278] The expression "free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in particular no reducing agent or no oxidizing agent.
[0279] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is as described above.
[0280] The non-thiol reducing agent herein refers to a reducing agent without a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites and more preferably from sodium sulfites and bisulfites.
[0281] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricynaides, peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.
[0282] (Shape)
[0283] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition according to the present invention includes at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.
[0284] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any dosage form. For example, the compositions used for the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel or the like.
[0285] The composition according to the present invention can be used to treat, preferably reshape and more preferably, smooth keratinous fibers such as hair. [Process]
[0286] The present invention also relates to a method for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: i. application of the composition according to the present invention to keratinous fibers; i. optional rinsing of the keratinous fibers with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and ii. remodeling, preferably smoothing, of keratinous fibers, preferably at a temperature of more than 50°C, more preferably more than 100°C and even more preferably more than 150°C.
[0287] The details of the composition used in the method according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Composition] above.
[0288] The method according to the present invention is intended for the remodeling, preferably for the smoothing, of keratinous fibers, such as hair, more preferably for smoothing for a long period and even more preferably, for smoothing even after several shampoos. In this sense, the method according to the present invention can be a semi-permanent remodeling, preferably smoothing, process.
[0289] It is preferable to clean the keratinous fibers before step (i). This cleaning step can be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratinous fibers and then rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers can be dried. It is preferable that the keratinous fibers are wet just before step (i).
[0290] In step (i), the composition according to the present invention, which is explained above, is applied to keratinous fibers such as hair. The application of the composition according to the present invention can be carried out by any means, such as a brush or a comb.
[0291] The bath ratio of the composition applied according to the present invention to the keratinous fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The expression "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.
[0292] It may be possible, after application of the composition according to the present invention, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; generally from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.
[0293] After step (i), the process according to the present invention may comprise the optional step of (ii) rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing.
[0294] Thus, if step (ii) is present, the keratinous fibers are rinsed in order to remove the composition according to the present invention from the keratinous fibers. The rinsing step can be carried out with water. It is preferable that the keratinous fibers are not dried after being rinsed. The drying of the keratinous fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying means such as a hair dryer.
[0295] On the other hand, if step (ii) is not present, the keratinous fibers can be treated by step (iii) after step (i), without rinsing.
[0296] In step (iii), the keratinous fibers, which are preferably dry, are subjected to remodeling, preferably to straightening, preferably at a temperature of more than 50°C, more preferably more than 100°C and even more preferably more than 150°C, with a heating element, such as a heating iron or a heated curler. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C and more preferably less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0297] The reshaping may be performed by providing the keratinous fibers with any mechanical force such as mechanical tension. The mechanical tension may be applied to the keratinous fibers by any reshaping means to deform the keratinous fibers into a desired shape. For example, the mechanical power may be provided by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of at least one iron, at least one curler, at least one comb, and a combination thereof. Any conventional iron, curler, or comb may be used as the reshaping means. A dryer that can blow gas such as air may also be used as the reshaping means.
[0298] The reshaping means may comprise at least one heating element. Thus, the reshaping means may be at least one heating iron and / or at least one heating curler and / or at least one heating comb and / or at least one heating dryer which may blow hot gas such as hot air. It may be preferable to use at least one heating iron and / or at least one heating curler.
[0299] As a heating iron, any conventional heating iron can be used. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which can be heated, for example, by electric heating. The heated plate(s) can be applied to the keratinous fibers and moved in the direction of the keratinous fibers to smooth them.
[0300] It is preferable that the heating iron has two plates, and that the keratinous fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, in which at least one of the plates can be heated, and then the two plates are moved in the direction of the keratinous fibers to straighten them.
[0301] It is preferable that the heating iron, in particular a portion thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably, more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably, more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0302] Step (iii) may be carried out by one or more passes of the heating iron in the direction of the keratinous fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of passes of the heating iron.
[0303] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of passes of the heating iron. It may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably, from a few seconds to 5 minutes.
[0304] As a heated curler, any conventional heated curler can be used. If the keratin fibers are wound around a heated curler, this winding can be carried out over the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, over half the length of the keratin fibers. Depending, for example, on the desired hairstyle shape and the amount of curls, the winding can be carried out with more or less thick strands.
[0305] It is preferable that the heated curler, in particular a portion thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating rod or a heating jacket, has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably, more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably, more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0306] Step (iii) may be carried out by holding the keratinous fibers on a heated curler so that mechanical tension is applied to the keratinous fibers. Step (iii) may be controlled not only by the temperature of the heated curler but also by the strength of the mechanical tension.
[0307] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating curler but also on the strength of the mechanical tension. It may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.
[0308] If necessary, before step (ii), mechanical tension may be applied to the keratinous fibers as explained above. [Kit]
[0309] The present invention also relates to a kit for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:
[0310] at least one selected from the group consisting of an iron, a curler, a comb, a dryer and a combination thereof, preferably at least one heated iron, a heated curler, a heated comb or a heated dryer which is capable of providing the keratinous fibers with a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 1000°C and more preferably above 150°C; and
[0311] the composition according to the present invention.
[0312] Any conventional iron or curler, including any conventional heated iron or curler, may be used as the above iron or curler in the kit according to the present invention.
[0313] The heating element in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the fibers keratinous at a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C and more preferably less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0314] The iron or curler, as well as the composition, in the kit according to the present invention can be used as explained in the section entitled [Method] above.
[0315] The details of the composition used in the kit according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Composition] above. [Use]
[0316] The present invention may relate to a use of (c) at least one amino-silicone in a composition for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, preferably with heating, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and a. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof
[0317] in order to prolong the remodeling effects for the keratinous fibers treated with the composition, in particular in order to further maintain the smoothed shape of the keratinous fibers, or to prevent or reduce waviness of the keratinous fibers.
[0318] Heating is not limited as long as it can heat the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C and more preferably less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0319] The above composition may further comprise (d) water and / or (e) at least one betaine compound and / or (f) at least one fatty amine and / or (g) at least one oil and / or (h) at least one fatty alcohol.
[0320] The above explanations regarding compound (a), compound (b) and aminosilicone (c), as well as water (d), betaine compound (e), fatty amine (f), oil (g) and fatty alcohol (h), can be applied to those in the above composition used for use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES
[0321] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Examples 1-4 and comparative example 1]
[0322] [Preparation]
[0323] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Example 1 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials.
[0324] The concentration of amodimethicone or aminopropyldimethicone in the composition according to Examples 1 to 4 was adjusted to be 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0325] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. comp. 1 Cetearyl alcohol 8 8 8 8 8 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Cetyl esters 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Isopropyl myristate 6 6 6 6 6 Glycerin 4 4 4 4 4 Glyoxylic acid (50% by weight of MA) (1) 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 Levulinic acid (60% by weight of MA) (2) 1.03 1.03 1.03 1.03 1.03 Betaine 1 1 1 1 1 pH regulator qs pH 3.2 qs pH 3.2 qs pH 3.2 qs pH 3.2 Ethanol 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 Amodimethicone (and) trideceth-5 (and) amodimethicone (and) trideceth-10 (BELSIL ADM LOG 1 from Wacker, amodimethicone concentration: 15% by weight) 3.38 Amodimethicone (and) cetrimonium chloride (and) trideceth-3 (and) trideceth-15 (and) acetic acid (DOWSIL 969 emulsion from Dow, amodimethicone concentration: 31% by weight) 1.61 Aminopropyldimethicone (X-22-9686 from Shin Etsu, aminopropyldimethicone concentration: 55% by weight) - - 0.91 - - Amodimethicone (and) trideceth-6 (and) cetrimonium chloride (Dow MEM-8299 xiameter, amodimethicone concentration: 57% by weight) 0.88 Preservative 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Smoothing effects (TO / Tlsh) 5 / 4 5 / 4 5 / 3 5 / 2 5 / 2 Surface area (TO / Tlsh) 1091 / 11 65 1107 / 11 94 1000 / 12 41 970 / 126 2 1003 / 14 94 Increased surface area (%) +7 +8 +24 +30 +49
[0326] MA: Active ingredient 1. marketed by the company WEYLCHEM under the name GLYOXO-HIGH PURE 50 (containing 50% active ingredient). 2. marketed by the company DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK) under the name DERMOSOFT 700 B (containing 60% active ingredient). [Evaluations]
[0327] Each of the above compositions was used to straighten a strand of hair, and then the strand of hair was evaluated according to the following protocols. 1. A 27 cm long, slightly wavy, natural black Chinese hair strand was shampooed with SLES shampoo, the composition of which is shown in Table 2 below. The hair strand was rinsed thoroughly with tap water.
[0328] [Tables2] % by weight Water qsp 100 Coco-betaine (30% by weight) 9 Sodium laureth sulfate (70% by weight) 15 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 Preservatives 0.7 pH regulator qs pH 5.3 1. Each of the compositions was applied according to Examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1 in an amount of 0.6 g on the strand of wet hair. 2. The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C). 3. Rinse the lock of hair thoroughly with tap water. 4. The hair strand was dried with a hair dryer (Nobby NB3100, TESCOM DENKI Co., Ltd, Japan) for about 90 seconds until dry. 5. The hair strand was straightened in 3 passes with a straightener (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180°C, 4 seconds / pass. 6. The level of smoothing of the hair strand was visually assessed immediately after step 6 (for the smoothing effect at T0) according to the following criteria.
[0329] 5: Very good
[0330] 4: Good
[0331] 3: Correct
[0332] 2: Bad
[0333] 1: Very bad
[0334] The results are presented to the left of “ / ” on the “Smoothing Effects (TO / Tlsh)” row of Table 1. 1. A photo of the hair strand was taken immediately after step 6, and the area (expressed as the number of pixels) of the hair strand was determined using free, public domain software, Image J. The results are shown to the left of “ / ” in the “Area (TO / Tlsh)” row of Table 1. 2. The hair strand was shampooed again with SLES shampoo, the composition of which is shown in Table 2, rinsed thoroughly with tap water and dried with a hairdryer (for about 90 seconds until dry). 3. The smoothing level and the surface area of the hair strand were evaluated again as above (Tlsh). The results are shown to the right of “ / ” in the “Smoothing Effects (TO / Tlsh)” and “Surface Area (TO / Tlsh)” rows of Table 1. 4. The increased area between T0 and Tlsh was calculated. The results are shown in the “Increased area (%)” row of Table 1.
[0335] The evaluation results in Table 1 show that the use of an aminosilicone with a combination of glyoxylic acid and levulinic acid can better maintain the straightened shape of the hair or reduce the increase in hair volume, which reflects a straightening or waviness of the hair, than the use of the only com- combination of glyoxylic acid and levulinic acid.
Claims
Claims
1. A composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one aminosilicone.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein compound (b) is selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.
3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the aminosilicone (c) is selected from the group consisting of aminodimethicone, aminopropyldimethicone and a mixture thereof.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition further comprises (d) water.
5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one betaine compound.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one fatty amine.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the pH of the composition is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, which is intended to reshape, preferably smooth, keratinous fibers, such as hair.
9. A method of remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the following steps: (i) applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratinous fibers; (ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and (iü) remodeling, preferably smoothing, of keratinous fibers, preferably at a temperature of more than 50°C, more preferably more than 100°C and even more preferably more than 150°C.
10. Kit for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: at least one selected from the group consisting of an iron, a curler, a comb, a dryer and a combination thereof, preferably at least one heated iron, a heated curler, a heated comb or a heated dryer which is capable of providing the keratinous fibers with a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 1000°C and more preferably above 150°C; and the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.