KERATINOUS FIBERS TREATMENT PROCESS

Abstract

KERATINOUS FIBERS PROCESS The present invention relates mainly to a remodeling process, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition A to the keratinous fibers, wherein composition A comprises: (a) at least one protein denaturing agent, (ii) applying a composition B to the keratinous fibers, wherein composition B comprises: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;and (c) at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts and mixtures, and (iii) optionally heating the keratin fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C, after both steps (i) and (ii) have been completed, wherein the process comprises step (i) followed by step (ii) or step (ii) followed by step (i). Figure for the abstract: none;

Description

Title of the invention: KERATINOUS FIBERS TREATMENT PROCESS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates mainly to a process for treating, preferably remodeling, and more preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Reshaping keratin fibers, such as hair, by heating them with a flat iron is a popular method for making unruly keratin fibers manageable, reducing volume, and improving their appearance. This type of reshaping using a flat iron is convenient for quick styling, but the hairstyle only lasts a short time, for example, until the next shampoo. Many consumers require a more permanent straightening method.

[0003] Furthermore, conventional methods of permanent remodeling using a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, as well as an oxidizing agent, which with heating, can provide keratin fibers with a durable hairstyle, but they have several disadvantages such as a long treatment time, damage to keratin fibers and a bad smell.

[0004] To date, a few remodeling processes of keratinous fibers without the use of reducing and oxidizing agents have been reported.

[0005] For example, US-A-2023 / 0000742 discloses a semi-permanent hair smoothing composition in liquid form with an aqueous base, or in emulsion form with an oily phase, comprising 15 to 20% by weight of glyoxylic acid and 0.1 to 5% by weight of levulinic acid.

[0006] Also, JP-A-2019-123701 discloses a hair treatment process comprising. 1. a step of applying a hair treatment agent to the hair, containing (a) levulinic acid at 13 to 30% by mass and (b) glyoxylic acid at 1 to 2% by mass, the total content of levulinic acid and glyoxylic acid being 15% by mass or more and the pH ranging from 1.5 to 3.0; 2. a step consisting of letting the hair; 3. a step of washing the hair with water; and 4. a hair straightening step with a flat iron or styling tool, a brush and similar at a certain temperature simultaneously with or after the drying hair.

[0007] Also, US-A-2012-312317 discloses a semi-permanent hair straightening process, comprising: a. the application of a solution comprising an operational alpha-keto acid as a buffering agent; b. keeping the solution in contact with the hair for 15 to 120 minutes; c. drying hair, and d. straightening hair with a straightener at a temperature of approximately 200 + / - 50 °C. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0008] There is still a need to improve the method of remodeling keratinous fibers.

[0009] An objective of the present invention is to propose an improved remodeling process for keratinous fibers such as hair, which can provide keratinous fibers with improved remodeling effects.

[0010] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a remodeling process, preferably a smoothing process of keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of:

[0011] (i) application of a composition A to keratinous fibers, wherein the com Position A includes:

[0012] (a) at least one protein-denaturing agent,

[0013] (ii) application of a composition B to keratinous fibers, wherein composition B comprises:

[0014] (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and

[0015] (c) at least one compound, different from the (b) compound, chosen from the group consisting in ketoacids, their salts and mixtures, and

[0016] (iii) optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C and more preferably above 150 °C, once both steps (i) and (ii) have been completed,

[0017] in which the process includes step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).

[0018] The (a) protein denaturing agent may be selected from urea and its derivatives.

[0019] The quantity of the (a) compound(s) in composition A may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% at 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0020] The quantity of the (b) compound(s) in composition B may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0021] The (c) compound can be selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.

[0022] The quantity of the (c) compound(s) in composition B may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0023] The weight ratio between the (b) compound(s) and the (c) compound(s) included in composition B can range from 1:1 to 10:1, preferably from 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably from 2:1 to 5:1.

[0024] The pH of composition B may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less.

[0025] The process according to the present invention may not include an application of ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratinous fibers.

[0026] The process according to the present invention may not include the application of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers.

[0027] Composition A may further comprise at least one polyol.

[0028] The quantity of the polyol(s) in composition A can be from 5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0029] Composition A may have a pH of 4 to 11, preferably of 5 to 10, and more preferably of 6 to 9.

[0030] The present invention may relate to a remodeling kit, preferably for smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0031] a composition A comprising: a. at least one protein-denaturing agent, and

[0032] a composition B comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from (b) compound, chosen from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0033] The present invention also relates to the use of a combination of a composition A and a composition B for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, in which

[0034] Composition A comprises: a. at least one protein-denaturing agent,

[0035] composition B comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from (b) compound, chosen from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and mixtures thereof. Best embodiment of the invention

[0036] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a keratin fiber remodeling process, which can provide keratin fibers with improved remodeling effects with longer durability with the application of two different compositions, a composition A and a composition B, in which composition A comprises at least one protein denaturing agent, and composition B comprises at least one glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof and at least one keto acid or salts thereof.

[0037] Thus, the present invention relates mainly to a remodeling process, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of:

[0038] (i) application of a composition A to keratinous fibers, wherein the com Position A includes:

[0039] (a) at least one protein-denaturing agent,

[0040] (ii) application of a composition B to keratinous fibers, wherein composition B comprises:

[0041] (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and

[0042] (c) at least one compound, different from (b) the compound, chosen from the group consisting in ketoacids, their salts and mixtures, and

[0043] (iii) heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C, once both steps (i) and (ii) have been completed,

[0044] in which the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).

[0045] The present invention can improve a remodeling process of keratinous fibers such as hair, with the application of two different compositions, composition A and composition B, providing improved remodeling effects.

[0046] The remodeling of keratin fibers, such as hair, here encompasses smoothing or the looping of keratin fibers.

[0047] The present invention can provide keratinous fibers, such as hair, with more durable remodeling effects, preferably smoothing effects. Thus, the present invention can lengthen or prolong the remodeling effects for keratinous fibers. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the remodeled shape of keratinous fibers, or can prevent or reduce the loss of the remodeled shape of keratinous fibers over time.

[0048] The present invention can cause less damage to keratin fibers compared to conventional remodeling processes, as the present invention does not require the use of reducing / oxidizing agents. Keratin fibers treated with the present invention can exhibit greater durability and easier combing.

[0049] Furthermore, the present invention can use very little or no ammonia or thiol compound, and consequently, the odor during the use of the present invention can be reduced compared to conventional processes that require the use of ammonia or a thiol compound. Also, the present invention can offer ease of use, for example, a short processing time.

[0050] The present invention will be described in detail below. [Process]

[0051] The present invention relates to a remodeling process, preferably for smoothing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of:

[0052] (i) application of a composition A to keratinous fibers, wherein the com Position A includes:

[0053] (a) at least one protein-denaturing agent,

[0054] (ii) application of a composition B to keratinous fibers, wherein composition B comprises:

[0055] (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and

[0056] (c) at least one compound, different from the (b) compound, chosen from the group consisting in ketoacids, their salts and mixtures, and

[0057] (iii) optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C, once both steps (i) and (ii) have been completed,

[0058] in which the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).

[0059] The process according to the present invention aims at remodeling the fibers of Keratin, such as that found in hair, preferentially allows for remodeling over a long period, and more preferably, remodeling even after shampooing. In this sense, the process according to the present invention can be a semi-permanent remodeling process. {Step (i)}

[0060] Step (i) consists of applying a composition A to the keratinous fibers. Composition A will be described in detail later.

[0061] The application of composition A can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.

[0062] The bath ratio between the applied composition A and the keratinous fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The expression "bath ratio" is meant to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the applied composition and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.

[0063] The amount of composition A applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.1 g to 1 g relative to 1 g of the keratinous fibers.

[0064] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are cleaned before step (i). This cleaning step can be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratin fibers, followed by rinsing them. After rinsing, the keratin fibers can be dried. It is preferable that the keratin fibers be damp just before step (i). The cleaning step is preferably carried out once before performing the process of the present invention.

[0065] It may be possible, after the application of composition A, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; typically from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 5 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 3 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow composition A to penetrate the keratinous fibers.

[0066] Composition A may or may not be rinsed from the keratin fibers after step (i). In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition A from the keratin fibers after step (i). {Step (ii)}

[0067] Step (ii) consists of applying a composition B to the keratinous fibers. Composition B will be described in detail later.

[0068] The application of composition B can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.

[0069] The bath ratio between the applied composition B and the keratin fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2, respectively. The term "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the applied composition and the total weight of the keratin fibers.

[0070] The amount of composition B applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.1 g to 1 g relative to 1 g of the keratinous fibers.

[0071] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are cleaned before step (ii). This cleaning step can be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratin fibers, followed by rinsing them. After rinsing, the keratin fibers can be dried. It is preferable that the keratin fibers be damp just before step (ii).

[0072] It may be possible, after the application of composition B, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; typically from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 15 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow composition B to penetrate the keratinous fibers.

[0073] Composition B may or may not be rinsed from the keratin fibers after step (ii). In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition B from the keratin fibers after step (ii).

[0074] In a preferred embodiment, there is no cleaning step between steps (i) and (ii).

[0075] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process comprises step (i) followed by step (ii) in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there be no rinsing step between step (i) and step (ii).

[0076] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process comprises step (ii) followed by step (i) in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable to have a rinsing step between step (ii) and step (i).

[0077] In another preferred embodiment, the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) then step (i) again in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there be no rinsing step between step (i) and step (ii), and that there be a rinsing step between step (ii) and step (i). {Step (iii)}

[0078] Step (iii) is an optional step. Step (iii) consists of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C. Step (iii) can be carried out once both steps (i) and (ü) completed.

[0079] In one embodiment, the keratin fibers are dried just before step (iii). The drying of the keratin fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying method such as a hairdryer.

[0080] In step (iii), the keratinous fibers, which are preferably dry, are heated to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C, with a heating element, preferably a heating iron. This temperature may be below 250 °C, preferably below 240 °C, and more preferably below 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50 °C and below 250 °C, preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.

[0081] Heating can be achieved with a conventional means, such as the application of a heating iron or a curling iron, or drying with a hair dryer.

[0082] Reshaping can also be carried out by supplying the keratin fibers with any mechanical force, such as mechanical tension. The mechanical force can be applied to the keratin fibers by any reshaping means to deform the keratin fibers into a desired shape. For example, the mechanical power can be supplied by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of at least one iron, at least one curler, and a combination thereof. Any conventional iron or curler can be used as a reshaping means.

[0083] The reshaping means may include at least one heating element. Thus, the reshaping means may be at least one heating iron and / or at least one heating curler. Through the reshaping of keratin fibers, the keratin fibers can be straightened or curled. Thus, the process according to the present invention can be used to straighten or curl keratin fibers, such as hair.

[0084] As a heating iron, any conventional heating iron can be used. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which can be heated, for example, by electric heating. The heated plate(s) can be applied to the keratin fibers and moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to smooth them.

[0085] It is preferable that the heating iron has two plates, and that the keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, in which at least one of the plates can be heated, then the two plates are moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to smooth them.

[0086] It is preferable that the heating iron, in particular a part thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, have a temperature greater than 50 °C and less than 250 °C, more preferably greater than 100 °C and less than 240 °C, and even more preferably greater than 150 °C and less than 230 °C.

[0087] Step (iii) can be carried out by one or more passes of the heating iron in the direction of the keratin fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of passes of the heating iron.

[0088] The heating time can depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of times the heating iron is passed over it. It can be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0089] As a heating roller, any conventional heating roller can be used. If the keratin fibers are wrapped around a heating roller, this wrapping can be done along the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, over half their length. Depending, for example, on the hairstyle and the desired number of curls, the wrapping can be done with thicker or thinner strands.

[0090] It is preferable that the heating element, in particular a part of it in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature above 50 °C and below 250 °C, more preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and even more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.

[0091] Step (iii) can be carried out by holding the keratin fibers on a heated spool so that a mechanical tension is applied to the keratin fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heated spool but also by the strength of the mechanical tension.

[0092] The heating time can depend on the temperature of the heating element but also on the strength of the mechanical tension. It can be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0093] If necessary, before step (iii), mechanical tension may be applied to the keratinous fibers as explained above.

[0094] The details of compositions A and B used in the process according to the present invention will be explained below. Composition A

[0095] Composition A of the present invention comprises: a. at least one protein denaturing agent.

[0096] (Form)

[0097] Composition A used for the present invention can be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of a aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition used for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a soft consistency suspension or emulsion of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

[0098] Composition A of the present invention is preferably in the form of a solution, and more preferably an aqueous solution.

[0099] Composition A used for the present invention can be in any pharmaceutical form. For example, composition A used for the present invention can be in the form of any hair treatment in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel, and the like.

[0100] (pH)

[0101] Composition A used for the present invention may have a pH of 11 or less, preferably of 10 or less, and more preferably of 9 or less, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0102] The composition A used for the present invention may have a pH of 4 or more, preferably of 5 or more, and more preferably of 6 or more, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0103] Composition A used for the present invention can have a pH of 4 to 11, preferably of 5 to 10, and more preferably of 6 to 9, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0104] The ingredients of composition A are described in detail below. a. Protein denaturing agent

[0105] Composition A in the process according to the present invention comprises at least one (a) protein denaturing agent. Two or more (a) protein denaturing agents may be included in composition A. Thus, a single type of (a) protein denaturing agent or a combination of different types of (a) protein denaturing agents may be used in composition A.

[0106] Here, the term “protein denaturing agent” refers to compounds that have a function of releasing a higher-order protein structure and dissociating hydrogen bonds and hydrophobic interactions between polypeptide side chains. The protein denaturing agent may be a protein-denaturing osmolyte / chaotropic agent.

[0107] The (a) protein denaturing agent is different from the (b) and (c) compounds explained below.

[0108] The (a) protein denaturing agent of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it has the functions explained above, and can be chosen from urea and its derivatives; guanidine and its salts, such as guanidinium chloride; the protein-denaturing salts, such as perchlorates, for example lithium perchlorate, lithium acetate, magnesium chloride, KCl, LiCl, NH4Cl, (NH4)2SO4; protein-denaturing surfactants, preferably anionic surfactants, such as sodium dodecyl sulfate and lithium dodecyl sulfate; and organic solvents such as ethanol, n-butanol, 2-propanol, and phenol.

[0109] In a preferred embodiment, the (a) protein denaturing agent is selected from urea and urea derivatives.

[0110] The term "urea derivative" means any compound other than urea (CO(NH2)2) itself, comprising in its chemical formula a carbonyl group simply bonded to two nitrogen atoms, namely: a unit

[0111] Preferably, the (a) compound(s) are chosen from compounds of formula (I) or (II), their salts or their hydrates:

[0112] (I)

[0113] in which: • RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent independently:

[0114] (i) a hydrogen atom or

[0115] (ii) a linear or branched lower alkyl or alkenyl radical, cyclic or acyclic in the Ci-C5> range; a Ci-C5> alkoxy radical; a C6-Ci8> aryl radical; a 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic radical; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical selected from the following: hydroxyl, (di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino such as dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-Ci8> aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide;

[0116] it being understood that: • when RI, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 may designate a carboxamide, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (Ci-C6)alkylcarbonyl such as acetyl, or (Ci-C6)alkoxycarbonyl such as methoxy-carbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, -CO-CH=CH-COOH, phenyl optionally substituted by a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl, benzyl or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl radical; • when RI and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R2 can represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl radical and R4 can represent an acetyl radical; • when R1=R2=H, R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, a piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or maleimide ring; • RI and R2 as well as R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, an imidazole ring; • R5 and R6 represent independently of each other:

[0117] (i) a hydrogen atom or

[0118] (ii) a linear or branched lower alkyl, acyl or alkenyl radical, cyclic or acyclic in the Ci-C5> range; a Ci-C5> alkoxy radical; a C6-Ci8> aryl radical; a 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic radical; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical selected from the following: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-Ci8> aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide; • A is a radical chosen from the following radicals: CH2-CH2, CH=CH, CH2 -CO, CO-NH, CH=N, CO-CO, CHOH-CHOH, (HOOC)CH-CH, CHOH-CO, CH2-CH2-CH2, CH2-NH-CO, CH=C(CH3)-CO, NH-CO-NH, ch2-ch2-co, CH2-N(CH3)-CH2, NH-CH2-NH, CO-CH(CH3)-CH2, co-ch2-co, co-NH-CO, CO-CH(COOH)-CH2, CO-CH=C(COOH), CO-CH=C(CH3), co-C(NH2)=CH, CO-C(CH3)=N, CO-CH=CH, CO-CH=N and CO-N=CH.

[0119] Among the compounds of formula (I) which are particularly preferred according to Examples of inventions include: • urea; • methylurea; • ethylurea; • propylurea; • n-butylurea; • dry butylurea; • isobutylurea; • tert-butylurea; • cyclopentylurea; ethoxyurea; hydroxyethylurea; N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea; N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea; N-(2-dimethylaminopropyl)urea; N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)urea; l-(3-hydroxyphenyl)urea; benzylurea; N-carbamoylmaleamide; N-carbamoylmalemic acid; piperidine carboxamide; l,2,4-triazol-4-urea; hydantoic acid; methyl allophanate; ethyl allophanate; acetylurea; hydroxyethylene-urea; 2-(hydroxyethyl)ethylene-urea; diallylurea; chloroethylurea; N,N-dimethylurea; N,N-diethylurea; N,N-dipropylurea; cyclopentyl-l-methylurea; 1,3-Dimethylurea; 1,3-Diethylurea; 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)urea; l,3-bis(2-hydroxypropyl)urea; 1,3-bis(3-hydroxypropyl)urea; 1,3-Dipropylurea; ethyl-3-propylurea; sec-butyl-3-methylurea; isobutyl-3-methylurea; cyclopentyl-3-methylurea; N-acetyl-N'-methylurea; trimethylurea; butyl-3,3-dimethylurea; tetramethylurea; and • benzylurea.

[0120] Among the compounds of formula (II) which are particularly preferred according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: • parabanic acid; • 1,2-dihydro-3H-1,2,4-triazol-2-one; • barbituric acid; • uracil; • 1-methyluracil; • 3-methyluracil; • 5-methyluracil; • 1,3-dimethyluracil; • 5-azauracile; • 6-azauracile; • 5-fluorouracil; • 6-fluorouracil; • 1,3-dimethyl-5-fluorouracil; • 5-aminouracil; • 6-aminouracil; • 6-amino-1-methyluracil; • 6-amino-1,3-dimethyluracil; • 4-chlorouracil; • 5-chlorouracil; • 5,6-dihydrouracil; • 5,6-dihydro-5-methyluracil; • 2-imidazolidone; • l-methyl-2-imidazolidinone; • l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone; • 4,5-dihydroxy-imidazolidine-2-one; • l-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone; • l-(2-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone; • l-(3-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone; • 4,5-dihydroxy-l,3-dimethyl-imidazolidin-2-one; • 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone; • 2-imidazolidone-4-carboxylic acid; • l-(2-aminoethyl)-2-imidazole; • 4-methyl-l,2,4-triazoline-3,5-dione; • 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine; • l-amino-4,5-dihydro-1H-tetrazol-5-one; • hydantoin; • 1-methylhydantoin; • 5-methylhydantoin; • 5,5-dimethylhydantoin; • 5-ethylhydantoin; • 5-n-propylhydantoin; • 5-ethyl-5-methylhydantoin; • 5-hydroxy-5-methylhydantoin; • 5-hydroxymethylhydantoin; • 1-allylhydantoin; • 1-aminohydantoin; • hydantoin-5-acetic acid; • 4-amino-1,2,4-triazolone-3,5-dione; • hexahydro-1,2,4,5-tetrazine-3,6-dione; • 5-methyl-l,3,5-triazinon-2-one; • l-methyltetrahydropyrimidin-2-one; • 2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine; • urazole; • 4-methylurazole; • orotic acid; • dihydroxyorotic acid; • 2,4,5-trihydroxypyrimidine; • 2-hydroxy-4-methylpyrimidine; • 4,5-diamino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine; • 1,3-dimethylbarbituric acid; • cyanuric acid; • l-methyl-hexahydropyrimidine-2,4-dione; • 1,3-dimethyl-3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-1H-pyrimidinone; • 5-(hydroxymethyl-2,4-(lH,3H)-pyrimidinedione; • 2,4-dihydroxypyrimidine-5-carboxylic acid; • 6-azathymine; • 5-methyl-l,3,5-triazinan-2-one; • N-carbamoylmaleamic acid; and • alloxane monohydrate.

[0121] Preferably, the (a) protein denaturing agent(s) are chosen from urea and hydroxyethylurea, and more preferably urea.

[0122] The (a) protein-denaturing agent(s) may be present in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0123] The (a) protein denaturing agent(s) may be present in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0124] The quantity of the (a) protein denaturing agent(s) in composition A of the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A. Composition B

[0125] Composition B of the present invention comprises:

[0126] (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and

[0127] (c) at least one compound, different from (b) the compound, selected from the group consisting in ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures.

[0128] (Form)

[0129] Composition B used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a soft consistency suspension or emulsion of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

[0130] Composition B of the present invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion, and more preferably an H / W emulsion.

[0131] Composition B used for the present invention can be in any pharmaceutical form. For example, the compositions used for the present invention can be in the form of any hair treatment in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel, and the like.

[0132] (pH)

[0133] Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably of 6 or less, and more preferably of 5 or less, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0134] Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 or more, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0135] Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably rentielment from 3 to 6, and more preferentially from 3 to 5, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0136] The ingredients of composition B are described in detail below.

[0137] (b) Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives

[0138] Composition B of the present invention comprises (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof.

[0139] Only one type of (b) compound may be used, or two or more different types of (b) compounds may be used in combination.

[0140] Compound (b) is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof. In other words, compound (b) is selected from glyoxylic acid and its derivatives.

[0141] Examples of glyoxylic acid solvates include, for instance, glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.

[0142] Examples of glyoxylic acid salts include alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate, and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.

[0143] Examples of glyoxylic acid esters include alkyl esters of glyoxylic acid such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.

[0144] Examples of glyoxylic acid amides include N-glyoxyloylcarbocysteine ​​and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acids.

[0145] It is preferable to use glyoxylic acid as (b) compound.

[0146] The quantity of the (b) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] The quantity of the (b) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention is less than 25% by weight, preferably less than 20% by weight, and more preferably less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0148] Thus, the quantity of the (b) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention can be from 0.1% to less than 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to less than 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0149] In another embodiment, the quantity of the (b) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be greater than 3% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight, and more preferably greater than 10% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0150] Thus, in this embodiment, the quantity of the (b) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be greater than 3% and less than 25% by weight, preferably greater than 5% and less than 20% by weight, and more preferably greater than 10% and less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0151] (c) Ketoacid

[0152] Composition B of the present invention comprises (c) at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from ketoacids, their salts and mixtures thereof. Two or more (c) compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (c) compound or a combination of different types of (c) compounds may be used.

[0153] Ketoacids can be selected from α-ketoacids, γ-ketoacids, γ-ketoacids and mixtures thereof.

[0154] α-Ketoacids can be compounds represented by the general formula (I):

[0155] R1-C(=O)-COOH (I)

[0156] in which

[0157] R1 designates a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0158] Examples of α-keto acids include pyruvic acid.

[0159] The [3-keto acids can be represented by the general formula (II):

[0160] R2-C(=O)-R3-COOH (II)

[0161] in which

[0162] R2 designates a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and

[0163] R3 designates a methylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0164] Examples of [3-ketoacids include acetoacetic acid.

[0165] γ-ketoacids can be represented by the general formula (III):

[0166] R2-C(=O)-R4-COOH (III)

[0167] in which

[0168] R2 designates a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and

[0169] R4 designates an ethylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0170] Examples of γ-keto acids include levulinic acid.

[0171] Ketoacid salts may be alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of ketoacid such as sodium or potassium salts of ketoacid, and magnesium or calcium salts of keto acid.

[0172] It is preferable to use, as (c) compound(s), γ-keto acid, and more preferably, levulinic acid and / or a salt thereof such as sodium levulinate.

[0173] The quantity of the (c) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0174] The quantity of the (c) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention is 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0175] Thus, the quantity of the (c) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention can be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0176] In one embodiment, the quantity of the (c) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0177] Thus, in this embodiment, the quantity of the (c) compound(s) in composition B according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0178] In one embodiment, the quantity of the (c) compound(s) in composition B according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0179] In another embodiment of the present invention, the (c) compound(s) are present in a smaller quantity than the (b) compounds in composition B. For example, the weight ratio between the (b) compound(s) (b) and the (c) compound(s) included in composition B can range from 1:1 to 10:1, preferably from 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably from 2:1 to 5:1.

[0180] (Other optional ingredients) - Water

[0181] Compositions A and B according to the present invention may comprise water, respectively.

[0182] Thus, if each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention comprises water, compositions A and B according to the present invention are not anhydrous.

[0183] The amount of water in each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0184] Furthermore, the quantity of water in each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0185] The quantity of water in each of the compositions according to the present invention can be from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Alkaline agent

[0186] Each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may or may not include at least one alkali agent. Two or more alkali agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkali agent or a combination of different types of alkali agents may be used.

[0187] In one embodiment of the present invention, composition A does not comprise any alkali agent, while composition B comprises at least one alkali agent.

[0188] The alkali agent may be an inorganic alkali agent. Preferably, the alkali agent should be non-volatile. Preferably, the inorganic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0189] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable as inorganic alkali agents.

[0190] The alkali agent may be an organic alkali agent. Preferably, the organic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.

[0191] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, and triethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl (Ci-C4) groups. In particular, alkanolamines may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-Dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

[0192] Diamines can be described by the structure (B) below: R. R (B) NW'N r k z \

[0193] in which W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a C1-C4 hydroxyl or alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.

[0194] The quantity of the alkali agent(s) in each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0195] Furthermore, the quantity of the alkali agent(s) in each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0196] Thus, the quantity of the alkali agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Oil

[0197] Each of the compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not include at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0198] In one embodiment, composition B of the present invention comprises at least one oil. In another embodiment, composition A of the present invention does not comprise at least one oil.

[0199] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid, paste, or solid at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0200] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or similar; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil; and a ester oil or ether oil; or a mixture of these.

[0201] The oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

[0202] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0203] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0204] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0205] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0206] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0207] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and Ci-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0208] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; trii-socetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0209] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C3O fatty acids and preferably C2-C22 fatty acids may be used. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligo- saccharides or polysaccharides.

[0210] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0211] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C30, and preferably in Ci2-C22* If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0212] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0213] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0214] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0215] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0216] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0217] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0218] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclo- hexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodeca-methylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0219] Preferably, silicone oils are selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0220] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0221] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0222] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:

[0223] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 with 5 silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecam ethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and their mixtures. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula:

[0224] [Chem.l] — D” - D'------- O" - D' — CH ----------------------- CFL j | “ with D”■ -Si-O— Stavec d’: -Si-O — I i CH3 C s H '7

[0225] We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0226] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is deca- Methyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone, is one example. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics." The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0227] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0228] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia; • Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; • Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0229] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0230] Silicones containing aryl groups include polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples include products sold under the following names: • Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range by Rhodia; • the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; • Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; • silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20; • certain oils from General Electric's SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0231] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0232] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from: • Lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0233] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and copolymers of decene and butene; and mixtures thereof.

[0234] It is preferable that the oil be chosen from among polar oils, more preferably ester oils, and even more preferably monoester oils.

[0235] The quantity of the oil or oils in each of the compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0236] Furthermore, the quantity of the oil or oils in each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0237] Thus, the quantity of the oil or oils in each of the compositions A and B of the present invention can be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Fatty alcohol

[0238] Each of the compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not include at least one fatty alcohol. Only one type of fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0239] In one embodiment, composition B of the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol, but composition A does not comprise the fatty alcohol.

[0240] The term "fatty" here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. A fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0241] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from the alkyl groups Ci2-C24 and alkenyl groups Ci2-C24. R may be substituted or not by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0242] Non-limiting examples of (h) fatty alcohols that may be cited include lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0243] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0244] Fatty alcohol can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohol can coexist, in mixture form, in a commercial product.

[0245] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

[0246] It is preferable that the (h) fatty alcohol be chosen from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

[0247] The quantity of fatty alcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0248] Furthermore, the quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) in each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0249] Thus, the quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) in each of the compositions A and B of the present invention can be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. -Non-ionic surfactant

[0250] Each of the compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not include at least one nonionic surfactant. Only one type of nonionic surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.

[0251] The optional ingredient of the nonionic surfactant here may be different from (a) the protein denaturing agent.

[0252] In one embodiment, composition B of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0253] Nonionic surfactants are well-known compounds in themselves (see, for example, For example, in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranging from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups ranging from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives can also be mentioned.Other examples include, but are not limited to, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerol fatty amides comprising, for example, 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono- or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of (C6-C24)alkyl polyglycosides of glycerol; N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as alkylamine oxides (in Cw-Cu) or N-(Cio-Ci4)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.

[0254] Nonionic surfactants may preferably be selected from monooxyalkylated, polyoxyalkylated, monoglycerol, or polyglycerol nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene motifs are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene motifs, or combinations thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene motifs.

[0255] Examples of monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated nonionic surfactants that may be cited include:

[0256] monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated (C8-C24)alkylphenols,

[0257] saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated alcohols in C8-C30,

[0258] saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated amides in C8-C30,

[0259] esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids and of monoalkylene glycol or polyalkylene glycols,

[0260] monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids, and of sorbitol,

[0261] saturated or unsaturated vegetable oils, monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated, and

[0262] ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates, among others, alone or in mixture.

[0263] Surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50 and more preferably between 1 and 20.

[0264] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the non-ionic monooxyalkylated surfactants can be selected from monooxyethylated fatty alcohol (ethylene glycol fatty alcohol ether), monooxyethylated fatty ester (ethylene glycol fatty acid ester), and mixtures thereof.

[0265] Examples of monooxyalkylated fatty esters that may be mentioned include glycol distearate.

[0266] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the non-ionic polyoxyalkylated surfactants can be selected from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol fatty alcohol ether), polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester), and mixtures thereof.

[0267] Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be cited include ethylene oxide adducts with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Laureth-2 to Laureth-20); ethylene oxide adducts with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20); ethylene oxide adducts with cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-20); ethylene oxide adducts with cetyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA names Ceteth-2 to Ceteth-20); ethylene oxide adducts with stearyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA names Steareth-2 to Steareth-20);Ethylene oxide adducts with isostearyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-20); and mixtures thereof.

[0268] Examples of unsaturated polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be cited include ethylene oxide adducts with oleyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene motifs and more particularly those containing 2 to 10 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA names Oleth-2 to Oleth-20); and mixtures thereof.

[0269] It is preferable that the non-ionic surfactant be chosen from among monooxyalkylated, polyoxyalkylated non-ionic surfactants, more preferably polyoxyalkylated non-ionic surfactants, and even more preferably polyoxyethylated fatty alcohols.

[0270] The quantity of the non-ionic surfactant(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably of 0.25% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0271] Furthermore, the quantity of the non-ionic surfactant(s) in each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0272] Thus, the quantity of the non-ionic surfactant(s) in each of the compositions A and B of the present invention can be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Polyol

[0273] Each of the compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not include at least one polyol. Only one type of polyol may be used, or two or more different types of polyols may be used in combination.

[0274] In one embodiment, both compositions A and B comprise at least one polyol.

[0275] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0276] The polyol suitable for use in the invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl-type compound, saturated or unsaturated, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

[0277] Preferably, the polyol is a linear or branched alkyl-type compound, preferably linear bearing at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functions, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functions, and even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

[0278] Polyols that are advantageously suitable are those having in particular 2 to 8 carbon atoms or for example, 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0279] Polyols may be selected from linear or branched polyols, preferably linear ones having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; examples include:

[0280] - diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, the propylene glycol and butylene glycol; and

[0281] - triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),

[0282] and their mixtures.

[0283] In one embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is selected from linear alkyl polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0284] The polyol(s) may be present in each of compositions A and B of the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably of 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0285] The polyol(s) may be present in each of the compositions A and B of the present invention in an amount of 50% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 35% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0286] The quantity of the polyol(s) in each of the compositions A and B of the present invention may be from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. - Mono-alcohol

[0287] Each of the compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one monoalcohol. Only one type of monoalcohol may be used, or two or more different types of monoalcohols may be used in combination.

[0288] The optional ingredient of the monoalcohol here may be different from (a) protein denaturing agent.

[0289] In one embodiment, composition B of the present invention comprises at least one monoalcohol. In another embodiment, composition A of the present invention does not comprise at least one monoalcohol.

[0290] The monoalcohol here can be a hydrophilic monoalcohol soluble in water. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic" means that a substance is soluble in water at a concentration of 1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0291] The monoalcohol can be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, bearing only one hydroxyl (OH) function.

[0292] In one embodiment, the monoalcohol can be an aliphatic monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0293] The term "aliphatic monoalcohol" here refers to any saturated alkane compound, linear or branched, bearing only one hydroxyl (OH) function.

[0294] The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) may be selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.

[0295] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol can be chosen from linear aliphatic monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol and mixtures thereof.

[0296] The quantity of the monoalcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight. weight or more, and more preferably 0.25% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0297] Furthermore, the quantity of the monoalcohol(s) in each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0298] Thus, the quantity of the monoalcohol(s) in each of the compositions A and B of the present invention can be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.25% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Optional ingredients

[0299] Each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may also include at least one other optional ingredient, selected in particular from: viscosity correctors, such as thickeners, such as polysaccharides; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; antibacterial agents, such as benzoic acid; preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol; chelating agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, in particular conditioning polymers, such as cationic polymers; perfumes; silanes; crosslinking agents; and surfactants, including anionic and amphoteric surfactants. The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients listed above.

[0300] In another embodiment of the present invention, the quantity of the polyol(s) in composition B according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0301] The above optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal quantities which can be easily determined by a person skilled in the art and which may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight in each of the compositions A and B. A person skilled in the art shall take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, so that they do not impair the properties of the compositions used for the present invention. - Ammonia and thiol compound

[0302] It is preferable that the process according to the present invention not include the application of ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratin fibers. Thus, it is preferable that each of compositions A and B be free of ammonia or a thiol compound. The expression "free of ammonia or a thiol compound" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of ammonia or a thiol compound.

[0303] In one embodiment, each of the compositions A and B of the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or a thiol compound, in particular no ammonia or thiol compound.

[0304] Due to the use of a very small amount or the absence of ammonia and / or thiol compound, the bad odor during the use of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced or prevented.

[0305] The compound thiol here refers to a compound which has at least one thiol group (-SH).

[0306] The thiol compound can be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent can be chosen in the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, in particular its C1-C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and its derivatives, in particular its esters; cysteine ​​and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alcanoylcysteine ​​and cysteine ​​alkyl esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, in particular its s-alkyl derivatives, as well as its salts.

[0307] Examples of the above-mentioned salts include ammonium salts; primary, secondary, or tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts; and alkaline earth metal salts. Examples of primary, secondary, or tertiary amines include monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine, and triethanolamine, respectively.

[0308] Other examples of thiol reducing agents include, but are not limited to, sugar N-mercapto alkyl amides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, [3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives; thiomalic acid; panthetin; N-(mercaptoalkyl)co-hydroxyalkyl amides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 368 763; aminomer-captoalkyl amides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 432 000 and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 514 282; 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2 / 3) and the mixture based on 2-hydroxymethyl-1-ethyl thioglycolate (67 / 33) described in French patent application No. 2 679 448. - Reducing agent and oxidizing agent

[0309] Preferably, the process according to the present invention does not involve the application of a reducing or oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers. Therefore, it is preferable that each of compositions A and B be free of reducing or oxidizing agents. The expression "free of reducing or oxidizing agents" means that a composition does not include a substantial amount of reducing or oxidizing agent.

[0310] In one embodiment, each of the compositions A and B of the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in particular no reducing agent or oxidizing agent.

[0311] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is as described above.

[0312] The non-thiol reducing agent herein means a reducing agent without a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones, and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites, and more preferably from sodium sulfites and bisulfites.

[0313] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates. {Optional step (iv)}

[0314] The process according to the present invention may or may not include an additional step (iv) of applying at least one treatment composition other than composition A and composition B to the keratinous fibers. The treatment composition will be described in detail later.

[0315] The application of the treatment composition can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.

[0316] The process according to the present invention may include step (iv) after application of both compositions A and B and before step (iii), if applicable. Thus, the process according to the present invention may include step (iv) once steps (i) and (ii) have been completed and before step (iii), if applicable.

[0317] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention comprises step (i), step (ii), step (iv) and step (iii) in that order.

[0318] In another embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the The present invention comprises step (ii), step (i), step (iv) and step (iii) in that order.

[0319] The process according to the present invention may include an optional step of rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers just before and / or after step (iv).

[0320] It may be possible, after application of the treatment composition, to leave the keratin fibers as they are for a certain period of time; typically from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate the keratin fibers.

[0321] The amount of the treatment composition applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.01 g to 0.5 g relative to 1 g of keratinous fibers.

[0322] The process according to the present invention may include step (iv) once, or may include step (iv) twice or more. In a preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention may include step (iv) twice.

[0323] When the process includes step (iv) twice or more, each step (iv) may include the application of identical or different treatment compositions.

[0324] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process comprises step (iv) twice, and each step (iv) includes the application of a different composition to the keratinous fibers.

[0325] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention does not include a rinsing step after step (iv). In this embodiment, the treatment composition used in step (iv) may be a leave-on cosmetic composition.

[0326] (Treatment composition)

[0327] The form of the treatment compositions that can be used for the present invention can be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a soft consistency suspension or emulsion of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

[0328] The treatment compositions that can be used for the present invention can have a pH of 3 to 8, preferably 3 to 7 at 25 °C.

[0329] The formulations of the treatment compositions are not particularly limited, and compositions for keratinous fibers commonly used in the Cosmetic products can be used. In one embodiment, the treatment composition can be a hair care composition.

[0330] For example, the treatment composition may or may not include at least one silicone and / or at least one polyol.

[0331] Preferably, the treatment composition comprises at least one amino-modified silicone or aminosilicone.

[0332] The term "aminosilicone" herein refers to a silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group or at least one quaternary ammonium group.

[0333] The quantity of (a) silicone(s) in the treatment composition may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the treatment composition.

[0334] The polyol that can be included in the treatment composition is the same as the polyol explained above, and the same explanations can be applied.

[0335] Preferably, the treatment composition comprises at least one polyol selected from diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and caprylyl glycol and other polyols such as glycerol.

[0336] The quantity of the polyol(s) in the treatment composition may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the treatment composition.

[0337] The treatment composition may include water. In this embodiment, the treatment composition is not anhydrous.

[0338] The quantity of (b) water in the treatment composition may be from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. [Kit]

[0339] The present invention also relates to a remodeling kit, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the combination of composition A and composition B of the present invention.

[0340] Thus, the present invention also relates to a remodeling kit, preferably for smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0341] a composition A comprising: a. at least one protein-denaturing agent,

[0342] a composition B comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from (b) compound, chosen from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0343] In the kit according to the present invention, composition A and composition B can be supplied separately, for example, in different containers.

[0344] The kit according to the present invention may further include at least one heating element, such as an iron or a simmer, which is capable of supplying the keratinous fibers with a temperature greater than 50 °C, preferably greater than 100 °C, and more preferably greater than 150 °C.

[0345] The heating element in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C. This temperature may be below 250 °C, preferably below 240 °C, and more preferably below 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50 °C and below 250 °C, preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.

[0346] Any conventional iron or steamer, including any conventional heated iron or heated steamer, can be used as the above iron or steamer in the kit according to the present invention.

[0347] It is preferable that the heating element be a heating iron or a simmer as explained in the section entitled [Process] above. Also, the details of the composition used in the kit according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Process] above. [Use]

[0348] The present invention may relate to a use of the combination of composition A and composition B of the present invention, to remodel, preferably smooth keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0349] Thus, the present invention also relates to the use of a combination of a composition A and a composition B, for remodeling, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, in which

[0350] Composition A comprises: a. at least one protein-denaturing agent, and

[0351] Composition B comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from (b) compound, chosen from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0352] In particular, the present invention relates to the use of composition A as a pretreatment and / or posttreatment agent for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratin fibers with composition B, wherein:

[0353] Composition A comprises: a. at least one protein-denaturing agent, and

[0354] Composition B comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from (b) compound, chosen from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0355] The present invention can be used by heating the keratinous fiber, preferably hair. In the use of the present invention, heating can be provided after application of compositions A and B to the keratinous fiber.

[0356] Heating is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C. This temperature may be below 250 °C, preferably below 240 °C, and more preferably below 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50 °C and below 250 °C, preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.

[0357] Details of the compositions for use according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Process] above. EXAMPLES

[0358] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Preparation]

[0359] Compositions A and compositions B were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0360] [Tables 1] Composition A Urea 5 Propylene glycol 10 Glycerin 20 Glycine 1 Preservatives 1.2 pH adjuster qs pH 7.8 Water qs 100

[0361] [Tables2] Composition B Isopropyl Myristate 8 Cetearyl Alcohol 9.5 Steareth-20 4 Pentylene Glycol 5 Steareth-2 4 Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (30% wt. AM) (1) 5 Cetyl Esters 1 Glyoxylic Acid (50% wt. AM) (2) 14 Levulinic Acid (60% wt. AM) (3) 4 Ethanol 0.25 Viscosity Adjuster 0.5 pH Adjuster q.s. pH 3.0 Water q.s. 100

[0362] (1) sold by BASF under the name DEHYQUART F 30 (containing 30% of active ingredient)

[0363] (2) sold by WEYLCHEM under the name GLYOXO-HIGH PURE 50 (containing 50% active ingredient)

[0364] (3) sold by the company DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK) under the name DERMOSOFT 700 B (containing 60% active ingredient) Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 Example 1

[0365] 1 g of Brazilian curly hair (type IV) with a length of 27 cm was The hair was washed with 0.5 g of a standard shampoo. The formula of the standard shampoo is shown in Table 3 below. The numerical values ​​for the ingredient quantities are all based on the "% by weight" of the raw materials. The hair strand was rinsed thoroughly with tap water.

[0366] [Tables3] Ordinary Shampoo Sodium Laureth Sulfate 15 Coco-Betaine 9 Preservatives 0.7 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 Water q.s. 100 pH Adjuster q.s. pH 5.5 Viscosity Adjuster 2

[0367] Composition A was applied in an amount of 0.2 g to the wet hair strand as a pretreatment (step (i)).

[0368] Next, without rinsing, composition B was applied in an amount of 0.6 g to the hair strand (Step (ii)).

[0369] The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25 °C). The hair strand was then rinsed thoroughly with tap water and then dried with a hairdryer until the hair strand was dry.

[0370] The hair strand was straightened in 3 passes with a flat iron (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180°C for 4 seconds per pass. Comparative Example 1

[0371] The hair strand, which was the same as that used in Example 1, was washed with 0.5 g of an ordinary shampoo according to Example 1. The formulation of the ordinary shampoo was the same as that used in Example 1. Then, no treatment was applied to the hair strand according to Comparative Example 1. Thus, none of steps (i) to (iii) were carried out in this process. Comparative Example 2

[0372] A sample according to Comparative Example 2 was prepared by shampooing with 0.5 g of an ordinary shampoo according to Example 1, then the strand The hair was blow-dried until the strand was dry. Then, the hair strand was straightened without any treatment using a flat iron. The straightening process was the same as in Example 1. Thus, only step (iii) was carried out in this process. Comparative Example 3

[0373] A sample according to Comparative Example 3 was prepared in the same way as Example 1, but no pretreatment with composition A was carried out. Thus, step (i) of the present invention was not performed in this process. Example 2

[0374] A sample according to Example 2 was prepared in the same way as Example 1, but a strand of Chinese curly hair (type III) was used instead of the strand of Brazilian curly hair (type IV). Example 3

[0375] Example 2 was repeated, but after rinsing Composition B with tap water, 0.25 g of a hair care composition Y was applied to the hair strand. The hair strand was left for 5 minutes at room temperature (25 °C), then rinsed thoroughly with tap water. Next, 0.03 g of a hair care composition Z was applied to the hair strand. The hair strand was blow-dried until dry and then straightened in the same manner as in Example 1.

[0376] Thus, the process according to Example 3 included an additional step (iv).

[0377] The formulations of hair care compositions Y and Z are presented in Tables 4 and 5 below, respectively. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0378] [Tables4] Hair Care Composition Y Cetearyl Alcohol 6 Cetyl Esters 1.5 Behentrimonium Chloride (80% AM by weight) 3 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-5 (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (15% AM by weight) (4) 15 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-6 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride (57% AM by weight) (5) 4.5 Preservatives 0.5 Glycerin 2 Water q.s. 100 pH 4.0

[0379] (1) sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1 (containing 15% of active ingredient).

[0380] (2) sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 4000 E (containing 57% of active ingredient).

[0381] [Tables5] Z Hair Care Composition: Water q.s. 100, pH adjuster q.s. pH 5.0, Butylene glycol 4, Viscosity adjuster 0.5, PEG-240 / HDI copolymer, Bis-decyltetradeceth-20 Ether (30% wt. AM) (6) 3, Preservative 0.7, Undecane (and) Tridecane 1, Aminopropyl Dimethicone (55% wt. AM) (7) 8.83, Isononyl isononanoate 3

[0382] (1) sold by the company ADEKA under the name ADEKANOL GT-730 (containing 30% of active ingredient).

[0383] (2) sold by SHIN ETSU under the name X-22-9686 (containing 55% of active ingredient). Comparative Example 4

[0384] A sample according to Comparative Example 4 was prepared in the same way as Example 2, but no pretreatment with composition A was carried out. Thus, step (i) was not performed in this process.

[0385] The processes according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 are summarized in Table 4. As explained above, in these examples, steps (i), (ii), (iv) and (iii) have been carried out in that order, where appropriate.

[0386] [Tableauxô] Hair Strand Step (i) Step (ii) Step (iv) Step (iii) Ex. 1 Hair Strand Brazilian Curly AB - Done Ex. Comp. 1 - - - - Ex. Comp. 2 - - - Done Ex. Comp. 3 - B - Done Ex. 2 Hair Strand Chinese Curly AB - Done Ex. 3 AB Done Done Ex. Comp. 4 - B - Done Examples 4 and 5 Example 4

[0387] 1 g of a strand of Chinese curly hair (type III) with a length of 27 cm was washed with 0.5 g of ordinary shampoo. The formulation of the ordinary shampoo was the same as that used in Example 1.

[0388] Composition B was applied in an amount of 0.6 g to the wet hair strand as a pretreatment (Step (ii)).

[0389] The strand of hair was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25 °C), then rinsed thoroughly with tap water.

[0390] Composition A was applied in an amount of 0.2 g to the hair strand (Step (i)) as a post-treatment. The hair strand was then rinsed thoroughly with tap water and then dried with a hairdryer until the hair strand was dry.

[0391] The hair strand was straightened in 3 passes with a flat iron (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180°C for 4 seconds per pass. Example 5

[0392] Example 4 was repeated, but after rinsing Composition A with tap water, 0.25 g of a hair care composition Y was applied to the hair strand. The hair strand was left for 5 minutes at room temperature (25 °C), then rinsed thoroughly with tap water. Next, 0.03 g of a hair care composition Z was applied to the hair strand. The hair strand was then blow-dried until dry. The formulations of hair care compositions Y and Z are the same as those used in Example 2.

[0393] Thus, the process according to Example 5 included an additional step (iv).

[0394] The hair strand was straightened in 3 passes with a straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180°C for 4 seconds / pass.

[0395] The processes according to Examples 4 and 5 are summarized in Table 7. As explained above, in these examples, steps (ii), (i), (iv) and (iii) have been carried out in that order, where appropriate.

[0396] [Tables?] Hair Strand Step (ii) Step (i) Step (iv) Step (iii) Ex. 4 Chinese Curly BA - Done Ex. 5 Hair Strand BA Done Done [Assessment]

[0397] (Smoothing effect)

[0398] After each of the treated hair strands was kept at room temperature (25 °C) for three hours, the level of smoothing of the treated hair strand was visually assessed on the basis of three aspects of "smoothing performance", "frizz level" and "volume" under the following criteria.

[0399] 5: Very good

[0400] 4: Good

[0401] 3: Passable

[0402] 2: Bad

[0403] 1: Very bad

[0404] (Sustainability)

[0405] The durability of the effects on the hair strand according to Examples 2 to 4 and Comparative Example 4, which used Chinese curly hair (type III), was evaluated. In particular, the durability with regard to the "smoothing effect" and "ease of combing" was evaluated with the hair strand after one shampoo with a routine shampoo composition. The formulation of the routine shampoo composition is shown in Table 8 below. The hair strand was rinsed thoroughly with tap water and blow-dried (for approximately 90 seconds until dry) after shampooing.

[0406] The smoothing effect was measured in the same way as above and the evaluation was made according to the following criteria.

[0407] 5: Excellent

[0408] 4: Very good

[0409] 3: Good

[0410] 2: Passable

[0411] 1: Bad

[0412] The combability of the treated hair strand was measured by combing the The hair was combed by a trained person and resistance to combing was assessed according to the following criteria.

[0413] 4: Combing can be done without any sensation of friction

[0414] 3: Combing can be done almost without any sensation of friction

[0415] 2: Combing is easy with low friction, which is acceptable

[0416] [Tables8] Routine Shampoo C14 - Ci6 Olefin Sodium Sulfonate (38% wt. AM) 18.4 Cocamidopropyl Betaine (38% wt. AM) 16.8 Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid 2.2 Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside (60% wt. AM) 1.5 Polyquaterium-67 0.15 Preservative 0.61 pH Adjuster qs. pH 5.3 Viscosity Adjuster 1.15

[0417] The results are shown in Table 9 below.

[0418] [Tables9] Smoothing effect Durability Smoothing effect Easy to comb Ex. 1 5 nm Ex. Comp. 1 1 nm Ex. Comp. 2 2 nm Ex. Comp. 3 3 nm Ex. 2 4 4 2 Ex. 3 5 4 4 Ex. 4 4 4 3 Ex. 5 5 3 4 Ex. Comp. 4 3 2 2

[0419] nm: not measured

[0420] It is clear that the processes according to the examples, which include steps (i) and (ii), optionally (iii), provided both an improved smoothing effect and durability compared to the processes according to the comparative examples, which do not include all steps (i) and (ii), optionally (iii). Furthermore, the hair strands treated with the processes according to the examples exhibited equal or improved sensory properties regarding ease of combing after shampooing, compared to those treated with the processes according to the comparative examples.

Claims

Claims

1. A process for remodeling, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition A to the keratinous fibers, wherein composition A comprises: (a) at least one protein denaturing agent, (ii) applying a composition B to the keratinous fibers, wherein composition B comprises: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;and (c) at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures, and (iii) optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, and more preferably above 150°C, once both steps (i) and (ii) have been completed, wherein the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).;

2. The process of claim 1, wherein the (a) protein denaturing agent is selected from urea and its derivatives.

3. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the (c) compound is selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.

4. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the pH of composition B is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less.

5. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the process does not include an application of ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratinous fibers.

6. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the process does not include applying a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers.

7. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein composition A further comprises at least one polyol.

8. A process according to any preceding claim, in which composition A has a pH of 4 to 11, preferably 5 to 10, and more preferably 6 to 9.

9. Kit for remodeling, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: a composition A comprising: (a) at least one protein denaturing agent, and a composition B comprising: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and their mixtures.

10. Use of a combination of a composition A and a composition B, for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, wherein Composition A includes: (a) at least one protein denaturing agent, and composition B includes: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and their mixtures.