Composition comprising organosilanes, amino acids and hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids, and cosmetic processing method
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023009207
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-09-01
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-07
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition comprising organosilanes, amino acids and hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids, and cosmetic treatment method
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, advantageously a hair composition, comprising organosilanes, particular polyacids and amino acids. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, in particular for hair, using said composition.
[0002] Hair can be weakened or damaged by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, or by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening. To overcome these drawbacks, it is common to use hair care products that condition the hair. These hair care compositions may be conditioning shampoos or conditioners that may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or creams of varying thickness.
[0003] To improve the cosmetic properties of these compositions, it is known to introduce into the latter conditioning agents intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or attacks that the hair fibers undergo, more or less repeatedly.
[0004] For this purpose, it has already been proposed to use, among other things, organosilanes in cosmetic care compositions, to give the hair satisfactory conditioning properties. Such compositions are for example described in patent applications FR2910276, EP2343042 and EP2111848.
[0005] However, the care compositions described in these documents provide conditioning and detangling properties that do not last long enough over time. Indeed, generally these properties do not resist washing sufficiently and tend to diminish from the first shampoo. In other words, even if these hair care compositions make it possible to obtain suitable results during and immediately after their use, it has been found that these effects tend to disappear as the hair is washed; it is then necessary to regularly renew the application of hair care products to maintain adequate conditioning effects.
[0006] A hair care composition was then proposed by application WO2016 / 083578, capable of providing non-conditioning properties not only satisfactory but also persistent when washed, for example persistent after at least 3 shampoos. This care composition includes the combination of organosilanes, cationic polymers with high charge density and cationic surfactants.
[0007] It has also been proposed, for example by EP2111849, a hair treatment method comprising the sequential application of a composition comprising organosilanes and a hair care or washing composition. This document describes in particular the use of a composition comprising an organosilane as a pre-shampoo, that is to say applied to the hair before washing with a shampoo comprising at least one anionic surfactant and one amphoteric surfactant. This method makes it possible in particular to obtain supple and smooth hair, which detangles well.
[0008] However, it is still possible to improve the performance provided by such compositions, in particular in terms of providing strength (denser, stiffer hair), while retaining a certain lightness (tonic and loose hair) as well as in terms of cosmetic properties such as detangling and smoothing to the touch; and this both immediately, when applying the composition to the hair (at T0), but also in a lasting manner, that is to say after several shampoos, for example lasting after 2 to 4 shampoos.
[0009] This is the objective sought by the present invention.
[0010] The present invention therefore relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, comprising:
[0011] - one or more organosilanes,
[0012] - one or more amino acid type compounds, preferably chosen from compounds corresponding to formula (II) below and / or their salts, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
[0013] - one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 atoms of carbon, and / or their salts, present in a total content of at least 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0014] It has been found that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to provide strength and resistance to the hair, thus leading in particular to a reduction in hair breakage during subsequent styling or brushing steps and / or to a reduction in the presence of split ends at the ends of the hair.
[0015] Furthermore, the cosmetic properties of the fiber, such as detangling, smooth feel and elasticity, are improved.
[0016] The composition according to the invention is therefore advantageously presented in the form of a hair treatment which provides visible reinforcement of the fiber (= added strength) and instant detangling, in particular on damp hair, and this in a way persistent in subsequent shampoos, for example persistent for at least 3 shampoos (without having to reapply the composition).
[0017] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0018] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be substituted for it. 1 / Organosilanes
[0019] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more organosilanes.
[0020] The organosilane(s) are preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and / or their oligomers and / or their hydrolysis products:
[0021] RlSi(OR2)z(R3)x(OH)y (I)
[0022] in which:
[0023] - RI is a C1-C22, in particular C2-C20, linear or hydrocarbon chain branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, which may be substituted by a group chosen from the amine groups NH2 or NHR (R being a linear or branched C1-C20, in particular C1-C6, alkyl, or a C3-C40 cycloalkyl or a C6-C30 aromatic radical); the hydroxy group (OH), a thiol group, an aryl group (more particularly benzyl) substituted or not by an NH2 or NHR group; RI which may be interrupted by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (CO);
[0024] - R2 and R3, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
[0025] - y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3,
[0026] - z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and
[0027] - x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2,
[0028] with z+x+y=3,
[0029] By oligomer is meant the polymerization products of the compounds of formula (I) comprising from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.
[0030] Preferably, RI is a linear or branched, saturated, C1-C22, in particular C1-C12, preferably linear, hydrocarbon chain which can be substituted by an amine group NH2 or NHR (R = C1-C20, in particular C1-C6 alkyl).
[0031] Better still, RI is a C1-C12, in particular C2-C6, linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon chain, substituted by an NH2 amine group. Preferably, RI represents a C2-C6, preferably C2-C4, aminoalkyl group.
[0032] Preferably, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably the ethyl group.
[0033] Preferably z varies from 1 to 3. Preferably, y=0. Preferably z = 3, and therefore x=y=0.
[0034] Preferably, the organosilanes used in the context of the invention correspond to formula (I) in which RI is a C1-C12 hydrocarbon chain, in particular C2-C6, linear or branched, saturated, substituted by an amine group NH2, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and z = 3 (and therefore x=y=0).
[0035] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more organosilanes chosen from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), octyltriethoxysilane (OTES), dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyl triethoxysilane (APTES); 2-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropyl methyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl-aminomethyl)-phenethyltrimethoxysilane, and their oligomers, and / or their mixtures; and more particularly chosen from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES) and 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) and their oligomers, their hydrolysis products and / or their mixtures; and even better chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), its oligomers and / or its hydrolysis products.
[0036] Preferably, the organosilane(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content of at least 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at a total content ranging from 6 to 20% by weight, preferentially from 7 to 15% by weight, better still from 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0037] Preferably, the organosilane(s) corresponding to formula (I) in which RI is a C1-C12, in particular C2-C6, linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon chain substituted by an amine group NH2, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and z = 3 (and therefore x=y=0) are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content of at least 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at a total content ranging from 6 to 20% by weight, preferentially from 7 to 15% by weight, better still from 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0038] Preferably, the organosilane(s) chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), its oligomers and / or its hydrolysis products are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content of at least 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at a total content ranging from 6 to 20% by weight, preferentially from 7 to 15% by weight, better still from 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 2 / Amino acid type compounds
[0039] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid type compounds.
[0040] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “amino acid compound” means an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) possibly being intracyclic, optionally in salt form; said amine function(s) being primary or secondary amine functions.
[0041] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from amino acid compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (therefore not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and / or their salts. Said compounds are also called carboxylic amino acid compounds and are particularly preferred.
[0042] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid type compounds chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (II) below and / or their salts.
[0043] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to formula (II):
[0044] COOH HC R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:
[0045] - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 8-membered, preferably 5-membered, this ring possibly being substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Cl-C4)alkyl;
[0046] - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a group (Cl-C12)alkyl, preferably (Cl-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or a C5-C7 aryl group, in particular phenyl, itself optionally substituted by one or more OH.
[0047] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 members, this cycle not being substituted.
[0048] Preferably, p=2.
[0049] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by a hetero- atom -S- and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.
[0050] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.
[0051] The amino acid compounds may also be a salt of a compound of formula (II).
[0052] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium salts and zinc salts.
[0053] The amino acid compounds may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL configuration, preferably of L configuration.
[0054] As examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.
[0055] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, arginine, tyrosine, methionine, serine, glutamic acid, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc) and their mixtures.
[0056] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, arginine, tyrosine, glutamic acid, serine, their salts and their mixtures.
[0057] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc) and their mixtures.
[0058] As glycine salts according to the present invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.
[0059] Preferably, the amino acid compound is glycine.
[0060] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise at least 2 different amino acid type compounds, better still at least 3 different amino acid type compounds.
[0061] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least 2 compounds corresponding to formula (II) and / or their different salts, better still at least 3 compounds corresponding to formula (II) and / or their different salts.
[0062] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least 2 different compounds chosen from glycine, arginine, tyrosine, glutamic acid, serine, their salts and their mixtures; better still at least 3 different compounds chosen from glycine, arginine, tyrosine, glutamic acid, serine, their salts and their mixtures.
[0063] Even better, the composition according to the invention can comprise:
[0064] - glycine and / or one of its salts, and
[0065] - glutamic acid and / or one of its salts,
[0066] - optionally arginine and / or one of its salts,
[0067] - optionally serine and / or one of its salts.
[0068] Very preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise glycine and / or one of its salts, glutamic acid and / or one of its salts, arginine and / or one of its salts, and serine and / or one of its salts.
[0069] Preferably, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.8 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 7% by weight, even better still from 1.3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0070] In particular, the total content of amino acid compound(s) of formula (II) in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.8 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 7% by weight, even better still from 1.3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0071] Better still, the total content of amino acid compound(s) chosen from glycine, serine, glutamic acid, arginine, tyrosine, their salts and their mixtures, in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.8 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 7% by weight, even better still from 1.3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0072] In particular, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) chosen from glycine, its salts and their mixtures, in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 3 / Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids
[0073] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.
[0074] These polyacids are different from the amino acid type compounds previously described.
[0075] Said hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids comprise several, in particular at least 2, COOH groups (in acid or salified form), better still 2 or 3 COOH groups (in acid or salified form).
[0076] Said polyacids differ from hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids, which only comprise a single COOH group.
[0077] Said hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids according to the invention also comprise at least one OH group, but may comprise several, in particular 2 to 3 OH groups.
[0078] Preferably, said hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0079] The hydrocarbon chain of said hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and is preferably saturated and linear.
[0080] Advantageously, the hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acid or salified form).
[0081] Salts of these polyacids include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium salts and zinc salts. Alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium salts.
[0082] Preferably, the hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids or their salts are chosen from tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals; very particularly sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium citrate.
[0083] The total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids comprising in total 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention is at least 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may preferably range from 1 to 12% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 10% by weight, even better still from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0084] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids comprising in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention can range from 1 to 12% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 10% by weight, even better still from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0085] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids chosen from tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, in the composition according to the invention can range from 1 to 12% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 10% by weight, even better still from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0086] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in the composition according to the invention can range from 1 to 12% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 10% by weight, even better still from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0087] Optionally, the composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.
[0088] Said monoacids comprise a single COOH group (in acid or salified form). They also comprise at least one OH group, but may comprise several, in particular from 2 to 3 OH groups. Preferably, they comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated and linear. Advantageously, the hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and 1 COOH group (in acid or salified form).
[0089] Salts of these monoacids include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium and zinc salts. Alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium salts.
[0090] Preferably, the hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids or their salts are chosen from alpha hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic or glycolic acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals.
[0091] When they are present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids comprising in total 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, can range from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.05 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0092] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not comprise (0%) hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids comprising in total 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts. 4 / Cationic polymers
[0093] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic polymers.
[0094] The term "cationic polymer" means any non-silicone polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0095] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better still greater than or equal to 5 meq / g, or even ranging from 5 to 20 meq / g.
[0096] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions where it is completely ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportion. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
[0097] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between approximately 500 and 5.106, preferably of between approximately 103 and 3.106.
[0098] The cationic polymers that may be used may or may not be associative. Preferably, they are non-associative.
[0099] The term "associative polymer" means an amphiphilic polymer capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules. It generally comprises in its chemical structure at least one hydrophilic zone, or group, and at least one hydrophobic zone, or group. In particular, the hydrophobic group may be a fatty hydrocarbon chain such as a linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl group comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0100] Among the cationic polymers that can be used, we can cite:
[0101] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylic and comprising at least one of the units of the following formula: R, r —CH - c— “ I o=c I NH HAS L R,--N— | “ Rs
[0102] in which:
[0103] - R3, identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
[0104] - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0105] - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0106] - RI and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group alkyl having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
[0107] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a me- anion thosulfate or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
[0108] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), esters of acrylic or methacrylic acids, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
[0109] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can cite:
[0110] - copolymers of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,
[0111] - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl chloride ammonium, such as those sold under the name BINA QU AT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,
[0112] - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl methosulfate ammonium, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,
[0113] - vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or the products called "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937";
[0114] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinyl terpolymers pyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,
[0115] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;
[0116] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers qua- tarnished, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,
[0117] - polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Cl-C4) salts trialkyl(Cl-C4)ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. More particularly, a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) may be used in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA. A crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester may also be used. These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.
[0118] (2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and ga- Cationic lactomannans. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0119] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597, and mention may be made of the polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.
[0120] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US4131576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium. The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.
[0121] Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US3589578 and US4031307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed in particular under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company RHODIA.
[0122] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene radicals or hydroxyalkylene with linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.
[0123] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycon densification of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.
[0124] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylenes polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents. Examples include adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.
[0125] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylene-triamine copolymer.
[0126] (7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising as the main constituent of the chain units corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):
[0127] in which
[0128] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
[0129] - R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
[0130] - RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group in C1-C6, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or RIO and RI 1 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; RIO and RI 1, independently of one another, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;
[0131] - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.
[0132] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium, for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide sold in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".
[0133] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula: 1° f5 ---N+ - A„ - N+— B, — (Hl) I ! 1 5 R»x-
[0134] in which:
[0135] - R13, R14, R15 and R16, identical or different, represent ali radicals phatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or Cl-Cl2 hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals,
[0136] or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen
[0137] or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear C1-C6 alkyl radical or branched substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group where R17 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;
[0138] - Al and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
[0139] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
[0140] it being understood that Al, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;
[0141] furthermore if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-, with n and p, identical or different, being integers varying from 2 to 20, and D designating:
[0142] a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
[0143] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
[0144] c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a radical linear or branched hydrocarbon, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;
[0145] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
[0146] Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.
[0147] We can cite more particularly polymers which are made up of recurring units corresponding to the formula:
[0148] in which RI, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are whole numbers varying from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
[0149] A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that for which RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, called Hexadi-methrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA).
[0150] (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V): — N* - (CKX - NH - CO - (CK) - CO - NH • (CHA - N+ - A — X- I ' I ^9 (V) HAS-
[0151] in which:
[0152] - R18, R19, R20 and R21, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
[0153] - r and s, identical or different, are whole numbers between 1 and 6,
[0154] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
[0155] - X- denotes an anion such as a halide,
[0156] - A denotes a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents - CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
[0157] Examples include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.
[0158] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF
[0159] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name of "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.
[0160] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:
[0161] (a) one or more units corresponding to the following formula (A): —CHj—CH— NK.
[0162] (b) optionally one or more patterns corresponding to the following formula (B): —CH.—CH — 4 | (B) MH—C—H he O
[0163] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
[0164] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferably from 10 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
[0165] These polymers can be obtained for example by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in an acidic or basic medium.
[0166] The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, may vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.
[0167] The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by the company BASF, such as, for example, and in a non-limiting manner, the products offered under the names LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.
[0168] Particularly preferred are cationic polymers chosen from those of families (1), (2), (7) and (10) cited above, better still those of families (1), (2) and (7).
[0169] Preferably, the cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the invention are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
[0170] - cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of di-methyldiallylammonium,
[0171] - optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic salts- loyloxyalkyl(C 1-C4)trialkyl(C 1 -C4)ammonium;
[0172] - cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.
[0173] Mention may in particular be made of polymers having the following INCI names: POLY-QUATERNIUM-6, POLYQUATERNIUM-7, POLYQUATERNIUM-37, POLY-QUATERNIUM-10, GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, HY-DROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, alone or in mixtures.
[0174] Even better, the cationic polymers likely to be present in the com position according to the invention are chosen from halides, in particular chlorides, of dimethyldiallylammonium (Polyquatemium-6).
[0175] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polymers, preferentially chosen from halides, in particular chlorides, of dimethyldiallylammonium (Polyquatemium-6).
[0176] The composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount of between 0.01 and 8% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0177] The composition according to the invention may in particular comprise the cationic polymer(s) chosen from halides, in particular chlorides, of dimethyldiallylammonium, in a total amount of between 0.01 and 8% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 5 / Non-ionic surfactants
[0178] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.
[0179] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures:
[0180] - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols;
[0181] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;
[0182] - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxy alkylenated;
[0183] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of polyethyl- lene glycols;
[0184] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol of preferably oxyethylenated;
[0185] - esters of fatty acids and sucrose,
[0186] - alkyl(poly)glycosides optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and may include 1 to 15 glucose units,
[0187] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not;
[0188] - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates;
[0189] - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives;
[0190] - amine oxides.
[0191] The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated units, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.
[0192] The number of moles of ethylene and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50, better still from 1 to 10.
[0193] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylenated units.
[0194] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100, better still from 2 to 50.
[0195] As examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, are preferably used.
[0196] Mention may be made of lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLY-GLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.
[0197] Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C8 to C10 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, the C10 to C12 alcohol with one mole of glycerol and the C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol.
[0198] Non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type can in particular be represented by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:
[0199] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
[0200] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0201] - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
[0202] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,
[0203] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.
[0204] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:
[0205] - RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 with 18 carbon atoms,
[0206] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0207] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,
[0208] - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
[0209] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, of preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.
[0210] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. Particularly preferred are C8 / C16 alkyl-1,4-(poly)glucosides, and in particular decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.
[0211] Among the commercial products, we can cite the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.
[0212] Preferably, C8 / C16-alkyl (poly)glycosides 1,4 are used, in particular in 53% aqueous solution, such as those marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.
[0213] The non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
[0214] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide; they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains;
[0215] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, comprising from 1 to 100 moles ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50;
[0216] - alkyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glycosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably of 0 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units;
[0217] - C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol;
[0218] - amides of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxy alkylenated;
[0219] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of poly ethylene glycols;
[0220] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated.
[0221] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from, alone or as a mixture,:
[0222] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two chains fatty, in particular at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, in particular C10-C18;
[0223] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, comprising from 1 to 100 moles ethylene oxide, preferably 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide;
[0224] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated, and
[0225] - alkyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.
[0226] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants, preferentially chosen from oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide.
[0227] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 7% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Additional compounds
[0228] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, in particular at a concentration preferably ranging from 50 to 95% by weight, for example from 55 to 90% by weight, in particular from 60 to 85% by weight, better still from 70 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0229] The pH of the composition may be between 3 and 7.5, preferably between 4.0 and 6.0, or even between 4.5 and 5.5.
[0230] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more organic solvents, liquid at 25°C, 1 atm., preferably hydrophilic (soluble or miscible with water) which may be chosen from C1-C6 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C2-C8 polyols, and C3-C7 polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent is chosen from C2-C4 mono-, di- or tri-diols. It may advantageously be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, propane 1,2-diol (propylene glycol) and mixtures thereof.
[0231] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more usual cosmetic ingredients different from the compounds previously described, in particular chosen from surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants; silicones; liquid and / or solid non-silicone fatty substances; thickeners and gelling agents; sunscreens; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidant agents; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; straightening agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; micas, pearlescent agents, glitter; pigments; fillers; perfumes; pH modifying agents. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition according to the invention. position, as well as their amounts, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
[0232] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, according to the invention may comprise:
[0233] - one or more organosilanes corresponding to the formula (I) described above, in which RI is a C1-C12, in particular C2-C6, linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon chain, substituted by an amine group NH2, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and z = 3 (and therefore x=y=0), preferably present in a total content of at least 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at a total content ranging from 6 to 20% by weight, preferentially from 7 to 15% by weight, better still from 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0234] - one or more amino acid type compounds corresponding to formula (II) such that defined above, in which p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom -S- and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; better still R represents a hydrogen atom; preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.8 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 7% by weight, even better still from 1.3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0235] - one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids comprising in total 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, and / or their salts; preferably present in a total content of 1 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 1.5 to 10% by weight, even better still from 2 to 8% by weight;
[0236] - optionally one or more non-ionic surfactants, notably chosen from oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide; preferably, in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 7% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention;
[0237] - optionally one or more cationic polymers, notably chosen from alone or as a mixture, the halides, in particular chlorides, of dimethyldiallylammonium; preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 8% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0238] The composition according to the invention finds in particular a particularly application interesting in the hair field, particularly for hair conditioning. It is advantageously presented in the form of a hair care and / or conditioning composition, such as a pre-shampoo, a rinse-out or leave-in conditioner, a hair mask.
[0239] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed after being applied to keratin materials, in particular to the hair. It is thus possible to optionally rinse, for example with water, after a possible exposure time. Preferably, it is not rinsed after a possible exposure time.
[0240] The invention also relates to a process for cosmetic treatment, in particular hair treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, optionally followed by a rinsing step, after a possible exposure time.
[0241] Preferably, it is a hair treatment process, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, in particular hair loaded with metal ions, in particular copper and / or calcium.
[0242] The cosmetic treatment process, in particular for hair, according to the invention may thus comprise a step (i) consisting of the application to the keratin materials, in particular the keratin fibres, better still to the hair, of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
[0243] The cosmetic treatment process, in particular hair treatment, according to the invention may also comprise a washing step (ii), consisting of the application to said keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, better the hair, of a cosmetic washing composition as defined below.
[0244] The application step (i) of the composition according to the invention and the washing step (ii) are carried out successively (or sequentially), which means that one of the application steps is prior to the other application step; intermediate steps, for example pausing and / or rinsing and / or drying, may be present between these two steps.
[0245] This step (i) may or may not be followed by a setting step, for example a setting time of 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes.
[0246] This step (i) may also be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, before carrying out step (ii).
[0247] The term “washing composition” means a cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants and / or one or more amphoteric surfactants.
[0248] The application step (i) can be carried out before the washing step (ii); the composition according to the invention is in this case used as a pre-shampoo.
[0249] According to this embodiment, there may be a laying step between step (i) and step (ii), but preferably, there is no rinsing step.
[0250] The application step (i) can be carried out after the washing step (ii); the composition according to the invention is in this case used as a conditioner.
[0251] According to this embodiment, there may be a rinsing step after the washing step (ii), then a laying step after the application step (i).
[0252] Preferably, the time separating step (i) of applying the composition according to the invention and step (ii) of washing the hair is at most 60 minutes; it may for example be between 10 seconds and 60 minutes, in particular between 20 seconds and 30 minutes, or even between 30 seconds and 15 minutes, even better between 1 and 10 minutes, and very particularly between 1 and 5 minutes.
[0253] The present invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples, in which the contents are indicated in % by weight of active material (%MA). Example 1
[0254] The following composition according to the invention is prepared (%MA):
[0255] [Tables 1] Composition AMINOPROPYL TRIETHOXYSILANE 10 Amino acids (glycine, arginine, serine, glutamic acid) 1,8 Citric acid 4,4 PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 2 POLYQUATERNIUM-6 1 Preservatives qs Water Qsp 100%
[0256] A hair composition is obtained, capable of being used as a pre-shampoo or as a conditioner.
[0257] The composition according to the invention can thus be applied to previously wet hair, left on for between a few seconds and 5 minutes, then a shampoo composition can be applied in the usual manner, the hair can be washed, rinsed and then dried or left to dry.
[0258] Before drying, we notice that damp hair detangles very easily, is supple and visually smooth.
[0259] After drying, the hair appears to be repaired from the inside, visibly strengthened; its detangling, smoothness to the touch and elasticity are improved. Hair repair is uniform from root to tip.
[0260] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain the combination of repair at the heart of the fiber with instant detangling, particularly on damp hair, and a contribution of strength, and this in a lasting manner. Example 2
[0261] The following compositions (%MA) are prepared:
[0262] [Tables2] A comparison B invention CHLORHEXIDINE DIGLUCONATE 0.04 0.04 CITRIC ACID 0.2 2 AMINOPROPYL TRIETHOXYSILANE 5 5 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 0.5 GLYCINE 1 1 WATER Qs 100 Qs 100
[0263] The hair undergoes the following protocol 5 times:
[0264] On locks of hair sensitized by bleaching, application of a standard shampoo, rinsing then application of compositions A or B, at a rate of 0.4g of composition per gram of hair.
[0265] After a pause of 5 minutes, the hair is rinsed then dried in an oven at 60°C.
[0266] To assess the strength of the hair, the percentage of deformation of the fiber is evaluated instrumentally. The greater the percentage of deformation, the less resistant the hair.
[0267] 20 hairs are taken from each of the locks treated according to the above protocol, with one of compositions A or B. 20 hairs are also taken from a lock of hair sensitized by untreated bleaching.
[0268] An instrumental tensile test is first carried out on each of the fibres using a Dia-Stron Extensometer MTT 680 device from Diastron: the fibre is stretched at a constant speed (2000 mm / min) and a stress-elongation curve (% deformation) is recorded.
[0269] We then retain the percentage of deformation of each fiber, at a given stress (=25 MPa).
[0270] Below is the average value of the % deformation obtained on the 20 fibers, for each of the compositions as well as for the control hair (untreated): Non-AB witness comparative treatment invention % deformation 27.6 24.6 21.2 p-value - 0.234 0.019 Resistance contribution vs control - + 10.8% +23.2%
[0271] A statistical analysis (T-test) leads to p-values of 0.234 (comparative) and 0.019 (invention) respectively.
[0272] It is noted that the average value of the % deformation is significantly lower when the hair is treated with composition B according to the invention.
[0273] The results demonstrate that composition B according to the invention made it possible to significantly improve the resistance of the fiber to deformation compared to a hair (p-value <0.05) unlike comparative composition A whose results are not significantly different from the control (p-value > 0.05)
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, preferably hair composition, comprising: - one or more organosilanes, - one or more amino acid type compounds, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and - one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in a total content of at least 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the organosilane(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and / or their oligomers and / or their hydrolysis products: RlSi(OR2)z(R3)x(OH)y (I) in which: - RI is a C1-C22, in particular C2-C20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic hydrocarbon chain, which may be substituted by a group chosen from the amine groups NH2 or NHR (R being a linear or branched C1-C20, in particular C1-C6, alkyl or a C3-C40 cycloalkyl or a C6-C30 aromatic radical); the hydroxy group (OH), a thiol group, an aryl group (more particularly benzyl) substituted or not by an NH2 or NHR group; RI which can be interrupted by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (CO);- R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, - y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, - z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and - x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z+x+y=3; preferably RI is a C1-C12, in particular C2-C6, linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon chain, substituted by an amine group NH2, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and z = 3 (and therefore x=y=0).;
3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the organosilane(s) are present in a total content of at least 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at a total content ranging from 6 to 20% by weight, preferably from 7 to 15% by weight, better still from 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amino acid type compound(s) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (II) and / or their salts: ÇOOH H........C ........N(H)P pn in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably 5 members, this cycle possibly being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Cl-C4)alkyl;- when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C12)alkyl group, preferably (Cl-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or a C5-C7 aryl group, in particular phenyl, itself optionally substituted by one or more OH; preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom -S- and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.;
5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from glycine, arginine, tyrosine, glutamic acid, serine, their salts and their mixtures.
6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of amino acid type compound(s) is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.8 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 7% by weight, even better still from 1.3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the hydroxylated polycarboxylic acid(s), comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, comprise in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acid or salified form); preferably are chosen from tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals; very particularly sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium citrate.
8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids comprising in total 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, ranges from 1 to 12% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 10% by weight, even better still from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic polymers, in particular chosen from, alone or as a mixture: - alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride), - optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Cl-C4)trialkyl(Cl-C4)ammonium salts; - cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums; preferentially chosen from dimethyldiallylammonium halides, in particular chlorides (Polyquaternium-6).
10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, in particular chosen from, alone or as a mixture: - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, in particular C10-C18; - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated, and - alkyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units; preferably chosen from oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide.
11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising water, in particular at a concentration preferably ranging from 50 to 95% by weight, for example from 55 to 90% by weight, in particular from 60 to 85% by weight, better still from 70 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Process for cosmetic treatment, in particular hair treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined in one of the preceding claims, optionally followed by a rinsing step, after a possible exposure time.
13. Method according to claim 12, comprising: - a step (i) consisting of the application to the keratin materials, in particular the keratin fibers, better still to the hair, of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, - a washing step (ii), consisting of the application to said keratin materials, in particular the keratin fibers, better still to the hair, of a cosmetic washing composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants and / or one or more amphoteric surfactants.
Citation Information
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