ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Abstract

ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION Anhydrous cosmetic compositions that offer improved dispersion of pigments and fillers, and solid spreading, while providing a matte color or mattifying effect, where the product may have stable hardness. The composition may include a colorant, one or more oils, a synthetic polyamide, cellulose particles, and may be free of a silicone elastomer. The cellulose particles may be untreated cellulose particles having a particle size of 3.5 µm or less, cellulose particles treated with a salt and having a particle size of 10 µm or less, or a combination thereof. Figure for abbreviation: none

Description

Title of the invention: ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, and specifically to cosmetic lip compositions using synthetic polyamide (e.g., nylon) and cellulose to provide improved feel, dispersion, spreadability, and hardness that are stable over time. BACKGROUND

[0002] There is a demand for environmentally sustainable cosmetic products. Such products are preferably free of microplastics. Microplastics often provide properties useful to a cosmetic formulation, the replacement of which can be challenging. For example, some microplastics are added to provide a desired hardness to the formulation that is stable over time and also impacts the feel, dispersion, and / or spreadability of pigments. Replacing such a material requires a complete reformulation and often results in a compromise on feel, dispersion, spreadability, and / or hardness.

[0003] Therefore, it is desirable to have a formula that replaces a microplastic thickening agent with a durable material, which can maintain or improve feed, dispersion and spreading, while offering a hardness that is stable over time. BRIEF SUMMARY

[0004] In various aspects, an anhydrous cosmetic composition may be proposed. The composition may include a synthetic polyamide such as nylon. The composition may include cellulose particles. The composition may include a colorant and one or more oils. The composition may be free of silicone elastomer. The cellulose particles may be untreated cellulose particles having a particle size of 3.5 µm or less, cellulose particles treated with a salt or ester and having a particle size of 20 µm or less, or a combination thereof.

[0005] Cellulose particles may be present in a total quantity, for example, not exceeding 5% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. A ratio between the total quantity of synthetic polyamide by weight and the total quantity of cellulose particles may be between 1:4 and 1:1.5.

[0006] The salt may be a metallic salt of a fatty acid, such as, for example, magnesium stearate. The ester may be a hydrogenated seed oil, such as, for example, jojoba esters.

[0007] One or more oils may include a hydrocarbon-based oil. One or more oils may include a silicone oil. The silicone oil(s) may be present in a total quantity, by weight, that exceeds the total quantity of hydrocarbon-based oil(s). The combined total quantity of hydrocarbon-based oil and silicone oil may be at least 40% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

[0008] The composition may include a wax. The total amount of wax(s) may be at least 10% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. The composition may include a fatty ester. The total amount of fatty ester(s) may be at least 20% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. The composition may include a filler. The filler may be present in a total amount of at least 5% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

[0009] In some embodiments, the anhydrous cosmetic composition may consist of synthetic polyamide, cellulose particles, colorant, hydrocarbon-based oil, silicone oil, wax, fatty ester, filler and optionally less than 1% by weight of all other materials.

[0010] In various respects, a method for providing a matte color finish with a lipstick having stable hardness can be proposed. The method may include providing an anhydrous cosmetic lipstick base composition that includes one or more colorants. The base composition may be free of a sil-sesquioxane elastomer. The method may include the addition of a synthetic polyamide, as well as cellulose particles, to the anhydrous cosmetic lipstick base composition. The cellulose particles may be untreated cellulose particles having a particle size of 3.5 µm or less, cellulose particles treated with a salt or ester and having a particle size of 20 µm or less, or a combination thereof. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0011] The expression "at least one" means one or more and this therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0012] All percentages indicated are expressed by weight, unless otherwise stated.

[0013] In this document, the term "approximately [a number]" is intended to include values ​​rounded to the appropriate significant figure. Thus, "approximately 1" would be intended to include values ​​between 0.5 and 1.5, while "approximately 1.0" would be intended to include values ​​between 0.95 and 1.05.

[0014] As used here, the term "between" two numbers is intended to include the numbers at the boundaries. Thus, between 0 and 1 would include both 0 and 1.

[0015] In this document, the terms "include", "includes" and "including" are understood to be non-limiting.

[0016] In this document, the term "substantially free [of an ingredient]" means that the composition contains less than 1% of the identified ingredient. The term "free [of an ingredient]" means that the composition contains less than 0.1% of the identified ingredient, preferably below detectable amounts of the identified ingredient, and most preferably, none of the identified ingredient.

[0017] In the context of the compositions and processes of the present invention where the invention "consists essentially of" the identified ingredients and / or process steps, the "basic and innovative properties" of these compositions and / or processes are "improved dispersion of pigments and / or fillers", "improved solid spreading" and "offering a matte or mattifying finish", while "maintaining stable hardness".

[0018] In various aspects, an anhydrous cosmetic composition may be proposed. The composition may include a synthetic polyamide. The composition may include cellulose particles. The composition may include a colorant. The composition may include one or more oils. The composition may include a wax. The composition may include a fatty ester. The composition may include a filler. Each of these will be discussed separately below. In addition, the composition may be free from, or substantially free from, a silicone elastomer, such as a silses-quioxane elastomer, such as a crosslinked vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane polymer. Synthetic polyamide.

[0019] The composition may include one or more synthetic polyamides. In some embodiments, the composition may include a single synthetic polyamide. Various synthetic polyamides may be used, such as nylon-12. The nylon may have a melting point below 200°C. The synthetic polyamide may have a density of 1.005–1.05.

[0020] Synthetic polyamide may be present in a total quantity of at least 0.5% by weight of the composition. Synthetic polyamide may be present in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight of the composition. Synthetic polyamide may be present in a total quantity of at least 1.5% by weight of the composition. Synthetic polyamide may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 5% by weight of the composition. Synthetic polyamide may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 4% by weight of the composition. Synthetic polyamide may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 3% by weight of the composition. Synthetic polyamide may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 2.5% by weight of the composition. Cellulose particles.

[0021] The composition may include a plurality of cellulose particles. The composition may include one or more types of cellulose particles. In some embodiments, the composition may include only one type of cellulose particle. The cellulose particles may be (i) untreated cellulose particles with a particle size of 3.5 pm or less, (ii) cellulose particles treated with a salt or ester and having a particle size of 20 pm or less, or (iii) a combination thereof.

[0022] Cellulose particles may be present in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight of the composition. Cellulose particles may be present in a total quantity of at least 2% by weight of the composition. Cellulose particles may be present in a total quantity of at least 3% by weight of the composition. Cellulose particles may be present in a total quantity of not more than 10% by weight of the composition. Cellulose particles may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 8% by weight of the composition. Cellulose particles may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 6% by weight of the composition. Cellulose particles may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 5% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

[0023] To help achieve the desired characteristics, it may be beneficial to maintain a ratio between the total amount of synthetic polyamide (by weight) and the total amount of cellulose particles (by weight). There may be more cellulose particles (by weight) than synthetic polyamide (by weight). For example, a ratio between the total amount of synthetic polyamide by weight and the total amount of cellulose particles may be 1:4–1:1.5. In some embodiments, the ratio may be 1:3–1:1.5.

[0024] Cellulose particle sizes are preferably relatively small. As used here, "particle size" is understood as the average volume size D50, which corresponds to the particle size defined such that 50% by volume of the particles have a size less than D50.

[0025] The particle size may preferably not exceed 3.5 pm. For example, the average number of particles may not exceed 3 pm. For example, the particle size may not exceed 2.5 pm. For example, the particle size may not exceed 2 pm. For example, the particle size may not exceed 1.5 pm. For example, the particle size may not exceed 1 pm.

[0026] Particle size appears to play a role in determining how stable the hardness of the composition is. Generally, when particle sizes are too large, the hardness becomes unstable and increases over time (for example, from date (from manufacturing up to a date 6 months later). Harder products result in undesirable performance characteristics. It has been determined that by treating cellulose with a specific process, slightly larger particle sizes can be exploited without the hardness becoming unstable. Specifically, by treatment with a metallic salt of a fatty acid, or an ester, the particle size that retains stable hardness can be increased. In a preferred embodiment, the particles are treated with a metallic salt.

[0027] In certain embodiments, a representative hardness value (such as a CISA value, described below) of the anhydrous cosmetic composition does not change by more than 5% over six months, such as six months after manufacture, when stored in a stability chamber at 40% relative humidity (RH) and 25°C. Since an increase in hardness may be more acceptable than decreases in hardness, in certain embodiments, the representative hardness value may not decrease by more than 5% or increase by more than 12% over six months, such as six months after manufacture, when stored in a stability chamber at 25°C, 40% RH.

[0028] The treatment is typically carried out using traditional techniques, such as deposition of the compound onto a surface via spray coating techniques. This may also include, for example, washing, filtration, drying, and spraying, etc. The treatment preferably results in a round and uniform coating covering the surface of the cellulose. In some embodiments, the coating thickness may be less than the radius of the cellulose particle. For example, if the cellulose particle has a radius of 4 µm (8 µm in diameter), the coating may be, for example, 1 µm thick, resulting in a particle with a total diameter of 10 µm.

[0029] Thus, for such treated cellulose particles, the particle size can be relatively larger than for untreated cellulose.

[0030] The size of treated cellulose particles may preferably not exceed 20 µm. In some embodiments, the size of treated cellulose particles may preferably not exceed 15 µm. In some embodiments, the size of treated cellulose particles may preferably not exceed 12 µm. In some embodiments, the size of treated cellulose particles may preferably not exceed 10 µm. In some embodiments, the size of treated cellulose particles may preferably not exceed 8 µm. In some embodiments, the size of treated cellulose particles may preferably not exceed 5 µm. In some embodiments, the size of treated cellulose particles may preferably be at least 1 µm. In some embodiments, the size of treated cellulose particles may be Preferably, the particle size should be at least 3 µm. In some embodiments, the treated cellulose particle size may preferably be at least 5 µm. In some embodiments, the treated cellulose particle size may preferably be at least 10 µm. In some embodiments, the treated cellulose particle size may preferably be at least 12 µm. The treated cellulose particle size may be between 1 µm and 20 µm. The treated cellulose particle size may be between 1 µm and 15 µm. In some embodiments, the maximum particle size may depend on the treatment. For example, in some embodiments, a particle treated with a metal salt may have a maximum particle size of 10 pm, 11 pm, 12 pm, 13 pm, 14 pm, 15 pm or 20 pm, while a particle treated with an ester may have a maximum particle size of 5 pm, 6 pm, 7 pm, 8 pm, 9 pm or 10 pm.

[0031] These salts may be an alkaline earth metal salt. Each salt may include, for example, magnesium or calcium. Each salt may be, for example, magnesium stearate or magnesium myristate.

[0032] Salts may be present in a total not exceeding 20% ​​by weight of the total quantity of cellulose particles treated. Salts may be present in a total of at least 5% by weight of the total quantity of cellulose particles treated. Salts may be present in a total not exceeding 1% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. Salts may be present in a total not exceeding 0.5% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

[0033] The ester may be, for example, an ester derived from a seed oil, such as a hydrogenated or transesterified seed oil, such as jojoba esters.

[0034] The cellulose particle may include only the cellulosic material and optionally the material(s) used to process the cellulose. The cellulosic material is preferably cellulose. In preferred embodiments, the cellulosic material may be free from, or substantially free from, cellulose derivatives, such as methylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.

[0035] Dye.

[0036] The colorant may include one or more colorants. The colorant may be a fat-soluble colorant. The colorant may include dyes, pigments, pearlescent pigments, lacquers, goniochromatic coloring agents, or other materials known in the art for providing color to a cosmetic product.

[0037] Among the fat-soluble colorants, we can mention in particular Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 4 (CI: 15510, Na salt), DC Orange 5, Quinoline Yellow, Red 21, Red 27 and beta-carotene.

[0038] The term “pigments” should be understood as designating white or colored, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous solution and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.

[0039] The pigments may be present in a proportion of 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The pigments may be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0040] The pigments can be chosen from monochrome pigments, lacquers, mother-of-pearls, optical effect pigments, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments.

[0041] Mineral pigments can be selected from metallic oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium oxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] It may also be a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type.

[0043] The dye may also include a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of the type of silica microspheres containing iron oxide.

[0044] Organic pigments can, for example, be:

[0045] cochineal carmine,

[0046] organic pigments containing azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthenic, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluorane dyes;

[0047] organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthenic, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluorane dyes. These dyes generally contain at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group;

[0048] melanin pigments.

[0049] Parmi les pigments organiques, on peut citer D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6.

[0050] Parmi les laques organiques, on peut citer les laques organiques supportées par un organic support such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example. Preferably, among the organic lakes, we can mention in particular those known by the following names: D&C Red Aluminum Lake No. 2, D&C Red Aluminum Lake No. 3, D&C Red Aluminum Lake No. 4, D&C Red Aluminum Lake No. 6, D&C Red Barium Lake No. 6, D&C Red Barium / Strontium Lake No. 6, D&C Red Strontium Lake No. 6, D&C Red Potassium Lake No. 6, D&C Red Aluminum Lake No. 7, D&C Red Barium Lake No. 7, D&C Red Calcium Lake No. 7, D&C Red Calcium / Strontium Lake No. 7, Zirconium lacquer D&C Red no. 7, Sodium lacquer D&C No. red 8, Aluminium lacquer D&C Red no. 9, Barium lacquer D&C Red no. 9, Barium / Strontium lacquer D&C Red no. 9, Zirconium lacquer D&C Red no. 9, Sodium lacquer D&C No. Red 10, Aluminium lacquer D&C Red no. 19, Barium lacquer D&C Red no. 19, Zirconium lacquer D&C Red no.19, D&C Aluminum Lacquer No Red 2, D&C Zirconium Lacquer Red 21, D&C Aluminum Lacquer No Red 22, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Red No. 27, D&C Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium Lacquer Red No. 27, D&C Barium Lacquer Red No. 27, D&C Calcium Lacquer Red No. 27, D&C Zirconium Lacquer Red No. 27, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Red No. 28, D&C Lacquer Red No. 30, D&C Calcium Lacquer Red No. 31, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Red No. 33, D&C Calcium Lacquer Red No. 34, D&C Lacquer Red No. 36, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Red No. 40, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Blue no. 1, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Green no. 3, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Orange no. 4, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Orange no. 5, D&C Zirconium Lacquer Orange no. 5, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Orange no. 10, D&C Barium Lacquer Orange no. 17, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Yellow no. 5, D&C Zirconium Lacquer Yellow no. 5, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Yellow no. 6, D&C Zirconium Lacquer Yellow no. 7, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Yellow no. 10, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Blue no. 1, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Red no.4, FD&C Red Aluminum Lacquer no. 40, FD&C Yellow Aluminum Lacquer no. 5 and FD&C Yellow Aluminum Lacquer no. 6. .

[0051] The pigments can be treated with a hydrophobic agent.

[0052] The hydrophobic treatment agent can be selected from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, per-fluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, triisostearyl isopropyl titanate and mixtures thereof.

[0053] N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl group, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

[0054] The term "alkyl" mentioned in the aforementioned compounds refers in particular to an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0055] As used herein, the term “mother-of-pearl” should be understood as designating iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, which are in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or are synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

[0056] The pearlescent pigments can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. This can also involve mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes are superimposed.

[0057] As an example of mother-of-pearl, one can also mention natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0058] Among the nacres available on the market, we can mention TIMICA®, FLAMENCO® and DUOCROME® nacres (based on mica) marketed by BASF, TIMIRON® nacres marketed by Merck and SUNSHINE® nacres based on synthetic mica marketed by SUN CHEMICAL.

[0059] Mother-of-pearl may in particular have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.

[0060] By way of illustration of mother-of-pearls which may be used in the context of this disclosure, we may mention in particular the golden mother-of-pearls sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Brillant gold 212G (TIMICA®), Gold 222C (CLOISSONE®), Sparkle gold (TIMICA®), Gold 4504 (CHROMALITE®) and Monarch gold 233X (CLOISSONE®); the bronze mother-of-pearls sold in particular by the company Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (COLORONA®) and Bronze (17353) (COLORONA®) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (CLOISSONE®); orange mother-of-pearl sold notably by Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (CLOISSONE®) and Orange MCR 101 (COSMICA®) and by Merck under the names Passion Orange (COLORONA®) and Matte Orange (17449) (MICRONA®); brown mother-of-pearl sold notably by Engelhard under the names Nu-antique Copper 340XB (CLOISSONE®) and Brown CL4509 (CHROMALITE®); mother-of-pearl with coppery reflections sold notably by the Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (TIMICA®), mother-of-pearl with red reflections sold notably by the Merck company under the name Sienna fine (17386) (COLORONA®); mother-of-pearl with yellow reflections sold notably by the Engelhard company under the name Yellow (4502) (CHROMALITE®); mother-of-pearl with red tint and golden reflections sold notably by the Engelhard company under the name Sunstone G012 (GEMTONE®); pink mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the Engelhard company under the name Tan opale G005 (GEMTONE®); black mother-of-pearl with golden reflections sold in particular by the Engelhard company under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (TIMICA®), blue mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the Merck company under the name Matte blue (17433) (MICRONA®), white mother-of-pearl with silver reflections sold in particular by the Merck company under the name XIRONA® Silver and green-gold and orange-pink mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the Merck company under the name Indian summer (XIRONA®), and mixtures thereof.

[0061] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material having a specific optical effect.

[0062] This effect differs from a simple, conventional shading effect, namely, a unified and stabilized effect of the kind produced by conventional dyes, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, the term "stabilized" means the absence of any color variability effect with the viewing angle or in response to a change in temperature.

[0063] For example, this material can be selected from particles having a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffraction pigments, thermochromatic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, particularly of the interference type. Of course, these various materials can be combined to allow the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

[0064] The metallic-reflecting particles that can be used in the invention are in particular selected from:

[0065] particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative;

[0066] particles comprising a single-material or multi-material organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one metallic sheen layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and

[0067] mixtures of said particles.

[0068] Among the metals that may be present in said particles, examples include Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se, and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and their mixtures or alloys (for example, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

[0069] As used herein, the expression "metal derivatives" refers to derived compounds of metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

[0070] By way of illustration of these particles, one can cite aluminium particles, such as those marketed under the trade names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® pigments by Silberline, and METALURE® pigments by Eckart.

[0071] Reference may also be made to metallic powders of copper or mixtures of alloys, metallic pigments, such as aluminium or bronze, aluminium particles coated with silica and metallic alloy particles, such as silica-coated bronze (copper and zinc alloy).

[0072] The particles in question may also be particles comprising a glass substrate, such as those marketed under the trade name METASHINE® pigments by Nippon Sheet Glass.

[0073] The goniochromatic coloring agent can be selected, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

[0074] Among the symmetrical multilayer interference structures that can be used in compositions prepared according to the invention, the following structures are found, for example: AFSiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by DuPont; Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the trade name CHROMAFLAIR® by Flex; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the trade name SICOPEARL® by BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / A12O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures marketed under the trade name XIRONA® by Merck.For example, these pigments include silica / titanium dioxide / tin dioxide pigments marketed under the name XIRONA® Magic by Merck, silica / brown iron oxide pigments marketed under the name XIRONA® Indian Summer by Merck, and silica / titanium dioxide / mica / tin dioxide pigments marketed under the name XIRONA® Caribbean Blue by Merck. Shiseido's INFINITE COLORS® pigments can also be mentioned. Depending on the thickness and nature of the various layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, the color changes from green-gold to red-gray for the SiO2 layers between 320 and 350 nm; from red to gold for the SiO2 layers between 380 and 400 nm; From violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.

[0075] As an example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, we can cite those sold by 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER®.

[0076] Examples of liquid crystal goniochromatic particles that can be used include those sold by Chenix, as well as those marketed under the trade name HELICONE® HC by Wacker.

[0077] The colorant(s) may be present in an amount of at least 1% by weight of the composition. The colorant(s) may be present in an amount of at least 5% by weight of the composition. The colorant(s) may be present in a total amount of at least 10% by weight of the composition. The colorant(s) may be present in a total amount of not more than 20% by weight of the composition. The colorant(s) may be present in a total amount of not more than 18% by weight of the composition. The colorant(s) may be present in a total amount of not more than 15% by weight of the composition. Oils.

[0078] The composition may include one or more oils. The one or more oils may include one or more hydrocarbon-based oils and / or one or more silicone oils. In some embodiments, the one or more oils may include hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils.

[0079] As used herein, the term "oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound immiscible with water that is liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0080] Hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0081] The cosmetic composition may include a hydrocarbon-based oil. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 12% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total quantity of at least 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total quantity of at least 6% by weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total quantity of at least 7% by weight of the composition. The hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total quantity of between 5% and 15% by weight. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total quantity of between 7% and 12% by weight.

[0082] The term “oil” refers to any fatty substance which is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0083] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil (material)" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus atoms. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be linear or branched. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil is a hydrocarbon. Representative examples of hydrocarbon-based oils include oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes (also called isoparaffins), for example isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane) and isohexadecane.

[0084] In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be nonpolar (therefore, formed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms).

[0085] The hydrocarbon-based oil may include linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, squalane and liquid paraffins, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Hydrocarbon-based oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0087] The term "volatile" oil refers to an oil that is capable of evaporating upon contact of the skin or a keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10³ to 300 mmHg). The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fiber, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and has a vapor pressure below 10³ mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0088] In some embodiments, a plurality of hydrocarbon-based oils are present. The hydrocarbon-based oils may comprise or consist of at least one oil containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms (such as isohexadecane), and at least one linear or branched hydrocarbon of mineral or synthetic origin (such as hydrogenated polyisobutene); in some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oils may be free of, or substantially free of, other hydrocarbon-based oils. In some embodiments, the total amount of linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin (by weight) may be at least 3 times the total amount of oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms (by weight). Silicone oil.

[0089] The composition may include one or more silicone oils.

[0090] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, organopoly- linear siloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0092] Polydialkylsiloxanes can be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising trimethylsilyl terminal groups, and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising dimethylsilanol terminal groups, known as dimethiconol (CTFA), and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes comprising trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0093] The chosen polydialkylsiloxane may be a mixture of dimethicone and dimethiconol (INCI name) available under the trade name Xiameter PMX-1503 FLUID® from Dow Corning.

[0094] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0095] Organopmolysiloxanes can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0096] Volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing oxyethylene, alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups which are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, said groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenyl ethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes, may be used.

[0097] Examples of volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention include:

[0098] linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 x 10⁶ m² / s) and containing, in particular, 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples of volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention include, in particular, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, or cyclopenta- siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane or cyclohexasiloxane, rheptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0099] The silicone oil may include a crosslinked dimethicone polymer. The crosslinked dimethicone polymer may be present in an amount not exceeding 5% by weight of the composition.

[0100] Silicone oil may include a plurality of silicone oil types. For example, silicone oil may comprise or consist of a polydialkylsiloxane, a phenyl silicone, and a crosslinked dimethicone polymer.

[0101] In a preferred embodiment, silicone oil may be present in a total amount of at least 15% by weight of the composition. Polydialkylsiloxane may be present in a total amount of at least 20% by weight of the composition. Polydialkylsiloxane may be present in a total amount of not more than 30% by weight of the composition. Polydialkylsiloxane may be present in a total amount of not more than 25% by weight of the composition.

[0102] In a preferred embodiment, phenyl silicone may be present in a total amount of at least 3% by weight of the composition. Phenyl silicone may be present in a total amount of at least 4% by weight of the composition. Phenyl silicone may be present in a total amount of at least 5% by weight of the composition. Phenyl silicone may be present in a total amount of not more than 10% by weight of the composition. Phenyl silicone may be present in a total amount not exceeding 8% by weight of the composition. Phenyl silicone may be present in a total amount not exceeding 6% by weight of the composition.

[0103] The silicone oil(s) may be present in a total quantity, by weight, greater than the total quantity of any hydrocarbon-based oil. In some embodiments, the silicone oil(s) may be present in a total quantity, by weight, that is at least 3 times greater than the total quantity of any hydrocarbon-based oil. In some embodiments, the silicone oil(s) may be present in a total quantity, by weight, that is at least 3.5 times greater than the total quantity of any hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0104] The total quantity of hydrocarbon-based oil and silicone oil, combined, may be at least 30% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. The total quantity of hydrocarbon-based oil and silicone oil, combined, may be at least 35% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. The total quantity of hydrocarbon-based oil and silicone oil, combined, may be at least 40% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. The total quantity of hydrocarbon-based oil and silicone oil, combined, may not exceed 60% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. The total quantity of hydrocarbon-based oil and silicone oil, combined, may not exceed 55% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. The total quantity of hydrocarbon-based oil and silicone oil, combined, may not exceed 50% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. Wax.

[0105] The composition may include one or more waxes.

[0106] As used herein, the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C, which may extend up to 200 °C, and in particular up to 120 °C, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. Preferred waxes are those having a melting point greater than or equal to 45 °C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55 °C.

[0107] Preferred waxes are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature and of animal, vegetable, mineral, and / or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the waxes are hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based waxes. “Hydrocarbon-based wax” means a wax formed essentially of, or even composed of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain groups such as, for example, alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups. “Silicone wax” means compounds comprising at least one silicon atom, preferably comprising Si-O groups.

[0108] In some embodiments, the wax comprises a polar wax.

[0109] In some embodiments, the polar wax is hydrocarbon-based. The Suitable hydrocarbon-based waxes include, for example, beeswax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, shellac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, laurel wax, synthetic wax and olive wax.

[0110] In some embodiments, the polar wax is an ester wax. "Ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester functional group or group. Examples of ester waxes include:

[0111] i) waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which RI and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P, and having a melting point from about 25 to about 120 °C, such as, for example, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)-stearate (the alkyl group containing 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in mixtures, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Specific examples of these waxes are sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P->Æ, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P->Æ, Kester Wax K 80 P->Æ, or Kester Wax K82H by Koster Keunen. Other specific examples include esters of polyethylene glycol and montanic acid (octacosanoic acid), such as Licowax KPS Flakes wax (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by Clariant.

[0112] ii) bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane tetrastearate), sold under the name Hest 2T-4S-Æ by the company Heterene,

[0113] iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R.5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms), which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, and is preferably linear and unsaturated,

[0114] iv) waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64-Æ and 22L73-Æ by the company Sophim, and

[0115] v) hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0116] In some embodiments, the polar wax is an oil-soluble polar modified polymer. "Polar modified polymer," as used here, means a hydrophobic homopolymer or copolymer that has been modified with one or more hydrophilic units. "Oil-soluble," as used here, means that the polar modified polymer is oil-soluble and may be, for example, a high-carbon, oil-soluble polar modified polymer or a low-carbon, oil-soluble polar modified polymer.

[0117] “High carbon oil-soluble polar modified polymer” means A polymer containing more than 20 carbon atoms. Suitable monomers for hydrophobic homopolymers and / or copolymers include, but are not limited to, cyclic, linear, or branched, substituted or unsubstituted, C22-C40 compounds such as C22-C28, C24-C26, C26-C28, and C30-C38 compounds, including all intermediate ranges and subranges. Preferably, the monomers are C24-C26, C26-C28, or C30-C38 compounds.

[0118] “Low-carbon, oil-soluble, polar modified polymer” means a polymer containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms. Suitable monomers for hydrophobic homopolymers and / or copolymers include, but are not limited to, cyclic, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted, C2-C20 compounds such as, for example, styrene, ethylene, propylene, isopropylene, butylene, isobutylene, pentene, isopentene, isoprene, hexene, isohexene, decene, isodecene and octadecene, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. Preferably, the monomers are C2-C8 compounds, more preferably C2-C6 compounds, and most preferably C2-C4 compounds such as ethylene, propylene, and butylene.

[0119] Suitable hydrophilic motif(s) for polar modified polymers include, but are not limited to, maleic anhydride, acrylates, alkyl acrylates such as, for example, methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate and butyl acrylate, and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).

[0120] In some embodiments, oil-soluble, high-carbon, polar modified polymer waxes may be used, including, for example, C26-C28 alpha olefin-maleic anhydride copolymer waxes commercially available from Clariant under the trade name LICOCARE or LICOCENE. Specific examples of these waxes include products marketed by Clariant under the name LicoCare with designations such as CM 401, which is an anhydride-modified maleic wax with a Mw of 2025 and a crystallinity of 11%, a C30-C38 olefin / isopropyl maleate / maleic anhydride copolymer sold by Baker Hughes under the name Performa-Æ V 1608, and a C24-C26 alpha olefin-acrylate copolymer wax commercially available from Clariant under the trade name LICOCARE CA301 LP3346 based on a polar backbone with C24-26 side chains with alternating ester and carboxylic acid groups.

[0121] In some embodiments, C2-C3 polar modified waxes may be used, including, for example, polypropylene and / or polyethylene maleic anhydride modified waxes (“PEMA”, “PMA”, “PEPPMA”) commercially available from Clariant under the trade name LICOCARE or LICOCENE; specific examples of such waxes include products marketed by Clariant under the name LICOCARE having designations such as PP207.Other suitable polar modified polymers include, but are not limited to, Honeywell's AC 573 A (ETHYLENE-MALEIC ANHYDRIDE COPOLYMER; Mettler Dropping Point: 106 °C), Honeywell's AC 596 A (PROPYLENE-MALEIC ANHYDRIDE COPOLYMER; Mettler Dropping Point: 143 °C), Honeywell's AC 597 (PROPYLENE-MALEIC ANHYDRIDE COPOLYMER; Mettler Dropping Point: 141 °C), ZeMac-Æ copolymers (from VERTELLUS), which are 1:1 copolymers of ethylene and maleic anhydride, polyisobutylene-maleic anhydride sold under the trade name ISOBAM (from Kuraray), and polyisoprene-graft-anhydride. maleic sold by Sigma Aldrich, poly(maleic anhydride-octadecene) sold by Chevron Philips Chemical Co., poly(ethylene-butyl co-acrylate-maleic co-anhydride) sold under the trade name. Lotader (for example, grades 2210, 3210, 4210 and 3410) by Arkema, copolymers in which butyl acrylate is replaced by other alkyl acrylates (including methyl acrylate [grades 3430, 4404 and 4503] and ethyl acrylate [grades 6200, 8200, 3300, TX 8030, 7500, 5500, 4700 and 4720] also sold by Arkema under the name Lotader, and isobutylene maleic anhydride copolymer sold under the name ACO-5013 by ISP.

[0122] In some embodiments, the wax is an alcohol wax. “Alcohol wax” means a wax comprising at least one alcohol functional group, i.e., comprising at least one free hydroxyl group (OH). When alcohol waxes are used, preferably, the at least one long-chain alcohol wax has an average carbon chain length of between about 20 and about 60 carbon atoms, most preferably between about 30 and about 50 carbon atoms. Suitable examples of long-chain alcohol waxes include, but are not limited to, alcohol waxes commercially available from Baker Hughes under the trade name Performacol, such as, for example, Performacol 350 (INCI name: C20-C40 alcohols), 425 (INCI name: C20-C40 alcohols), and 550 (INCI name: C30-C50 alcohols). Preferably, long-chain alcohol wax has a melting temperature range of about 93 °C to about 105 °C.Another example of a commercial product containing a suitable alcohol wax is Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies.

[0123] In some embodiments, the wax is a non-polar wax. Non-polar waxes are, in particular, hydrocarbon-based waxes formed solely from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free from heteroatoms such as N, O, and P. In particular, the term "non-polar wax" refers to a wax that is formed exclusively from non-polar wax and not from a mixture also comprising other types of waxes that are not non-polar waxes.

[0124] Examples of nonpolar waxes include hydrocarbon-based waxes, for example, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, and polyethylene waxes. Examples of polyethylene waxes include Per-formalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene, sold by New Phase Technologies. An example of ozokerite is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P. Examples of microcrystalline waxes include Multiwax W 445-Æ, sold by Sonneborn, and Microwax HW->Æ and Base Wax 30540-Æ, sold by Paramelt. Examples of microwaxes that can be used in compositions according to the invention as non-polar waxes include polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200-Æ, 220-Æ, 220L-Æ and 250S-Æ by the Micro Powders company.

[0125] If present, the waxes may be present in the composition in one quantity ranging from about 0.1% to about 50%, preferably from about 1% to about 40%, and preferably from about 5% to about 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0126] The cosmetic composition may include two or more waxes. The cosmetic composition may include three or more waxes. The cosmetic composition may include four or more waxes. The cosmetic composition may include five or more waxes. The cosmetic composition may contain at least one polar wax and at least one non-polar wax. The cosmetic composition may include two or more non-polar waxes. The cosmetic composition may include three or more non-polar waxes. The cosmetic composition may include four or more non-polar waxes.

[0127] The cosmetic composition may contain wax(s) in a total quantity of at least 5% by weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition may contain wax(s) in a total quantity of at least 7.5% by weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition may contain wax(s) in a total quantity of at least 10% by weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition may contain wax(s) in a total quantity not exceeding 25% by weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition may contain wax(s) in a total quantity not exceeding 20% ​​by weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition may contain wax(s) in a total quantity not exceeding 15% by weight of the composition. Fatty ester.

[0128] The composition may include one or more fatty esters.

[0129] Fatty esters may include one or more liquid fatty esters. The term "liquid fatty ester" refers to an ester that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25 °C, 1 atm) and that comprises in its structure at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms. Preferably, it has a melting point less than or equal to about 10 °C.

[0130] Liquid fatty esters may be esters of monoalcohols or polyols with monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, at least one of the alcohols and / or acids comprising at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.

[0131] The liquid fatty acid ester may be selected from esters of a fatty acid (at least 6 carbon atoms) and a monoalcohol, more particularly from esters of a mono-fatty acid and a monoalcohol. Preferably, at least one of the alcohols and / or acids is branched. Preferably, the alcohol and / or acid are saturated, and preferably both are saturated. Preferably, the liquid fatty acid ester is not oxy-alkylated.

[0132] The liquid fatty esters according to the invention preferably have the formula R1-COO-R2, in which:

[0133] RI designates a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, containing from 5 to 31 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 7 to 21 carbon atoms, and

[0134] R2 designates a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0135] Preferably, RI designates a linear or branched (saturated) alkyl radical containing 7 to 21 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 17 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 15 carbon atoms.

[0136] Preferably, R2 designates a linear (saturated) alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a branched (saturated) alkyl radical containing 3 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 16 carbon atoms. More preferably, R2 designates a branched saturated alkyl radical containing 3 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0137] Non-limiting examples of monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols include ethyl laurate, butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, butyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl monococoate (or octyl monococoate), 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate (or octyl stearate), 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (or octyl hydroxystearate), decyl oleate, isononyl iso-nonanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, isocetyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate,Octyldodecyl neopentanoate and isoarachidyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0138] In a preferred embodiment, the monoester is isostearyl isostearate.

[0139] The fatty ester may include an aromatic ester such as tridecyl trimellitate.

[0140] In some embodiments, the fatty ester may include an ester of a glycerol oligomer, in particular diglycerol esters, in particular adipic acid and glycerol condensates, wherein certain hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (INCI name) sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the Cremer Oleo company.

[0141] In some embodiments, the fatty ester may include a liquid fatty ester, an aromatic ester, and an ester of a glycerol oligomer. In some embodiments, the total amount (by weight of the liquid fatty ester) may be less than the The total amount (by weight) of the aromatic ester may be less than the total amount (by weight) of the ester of a glycerol oligomer. In some embodiments, the total amount (by weight) of the ester of a glycerol oligomer may be greater than the combined amount (by weight) of the liquid fatty ester and the aromatic ester.

[0142] The fatty ester(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 10% by weight of the composition. The fatty ester(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 15% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. The fatty ester(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 20% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. The fatty ester(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 30% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. The fatty ester(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 35% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. The fatty ester(s) may be present in a total quantity of at least 40% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. Filler.

[0143] The composition may include one or more fillers. The filler may be, for example, of an organic or mineral nature. The term "filler" should be understood as meaning colorless or white solid particles of any shape, which are dispersed in an insoluble form in the medium of the composition. These particles, of a mineral or organic nature, impart body or rigidity to the composition and / or smoothness and uniformity to the makeup.

[0144] The fillers used in the compositions according to the invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical or fibrous form or of any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0145] The fillers according to the invention may be surface coated or not, and in particular they may be surface treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0146] Examples of mineral fillers that may be mentioned include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or silica and titanium dioxide composites, for example the TSG range sold by Nippon Sheet Glass

[0147] Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned include polyethylene powders, polymethyl methacrylate powders, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, acrylic acid copolymer powders (Polytrap from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, and hollow polymer microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, for example Expancel (Nobel Industry), hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Toshiki Plastic Powder), silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearl from Toshiba), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), polyurethane powders, in particular crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone.

[0148] The filler may be present in a total quantity of at least 3% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. The filler may be present in a total quantity of at least 5% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. The filler may be present in a total quantity of not more than 10% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition. The filler may be present in a total quantity not exceeding 8% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

[0149] In certain embodiments, the anhydrous cosmetic composition may consist of synthetic polyamide, cellulose particles, colorant, hydrocarbon-based oil, silicone oil, wax, fatty ester, filler, and optionally less than 1% by weight of all other materials. For example, the composition may include less than 1% of the total perfumes, antioxidants, coatings of various pigments, etc.

[0150] In various respects, a method for providing a matte color finish with a lipstick having stable hardness can be proposed. The method may include providing an anhydrous cosmetic lipstick base composition that includes one or more colorants. The base composition may be free of a silicone elastomer. The method may include adding a synthetic polyamide, as well as cellulose particles, to the anhydrous cosmetic lipstick base composition. The cellulose particles may be untreated cellulose particles having a relatively smaller particle size, cellulose particles treated with a salt or ester and having a relatively larger particle size, or a combination thereof. Examples.

[0151] Several lipstick compositions have been created, as described in Tables 1 and 2 below. Two comparative formulas (Cl, C2) and three exemplary formulas (El, E2, E3) are listed. To produce each formulation, a base formula is created by grinding the pigments with a mixture of hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fatty esters, and fillers to create a Pigment grinding. The pigment grinding and waxes are then placed in a kettle and heated to 95°C, then mixed until homogeneous. Once homogeneous, the remaining base formula materials are added and mixed until homogeneous. Next, modifiers (e.g., synthetic polyamide and cellulose) are added and mixed until homogeneous. Once complete, the hot formulations are poured into lipstick molds and cooled to room temperature before being transferred to a refrigerated environment, and then placed in lipstick packages.

[0152] [Table 1] (Comparative formulas) Material Cl C2 Base Formula Treated Pigments 10-20% 10-20% Hydrocarbon-Based Oils 5-10% 5-10% Silicone Oils 30-40% 30-40% Fatty Esters 20-30% 20-30% Fillers 5-10% 5-10% Waxes 5-15% 5-15% Additives <1% <1% Modifiers Nylon-12 1.5-2.5% 1.5-2.5% Silsesquioxane Resin 3-5% - Untreated Cellulose (10 µm) 3-5% Untreated Cellulose (3.5 µm) - - Treated Cellulose (magnesium stearate, 12-15 µm) - - Treated Cellulose (jojoba esters, 12-15 µm) - -

[0153] [Table 2] (Examples of formulas) Material E1 E2 E3 Base formula Treated pigments 10-20% 10-20% 10-20% Hydrocarbon-based oils 5-10% 5-10% 5-10% Silicone oils 30-40% 30-40% 30-40% Fatty esters 20-30% 20-30% 20-30% Fillers 5-10% 5-10% 5-10% Waxes 5-15% 5-15% 5-15% Additives <1% <1% <1% Polyamides and cellulose Nylon-12 1.5-2.5% 1.5-2.5% 1.5-2.5% Silsesquioxane resin - - Untreated cellulose (10 µm) - - Untreated cellulose (3.5 µm) 3-5% - Treated cellulose (magnesium stearate, 12-15 µm) - 3-5% Treated cellulose (esters of jojoba, 12-15 pm) - - 3-5%

[0154] Evaluations

[0155] The various lip products were evaluated, among other things, in terms of coverage and spreadability, and shear strength (“CISA”) over time. These values ​​can be seen in Table 3 below. Coverage and spreadability were determined subjectively and compared by a panel of trained experts. CISA values ​​are determined by measuring the grams of force (i.e., the maximum grams of force) required for a wire moving at a defined speed to cut a product with a defined shape (such as a “ball” shape) in half. Thus, lower CISA values ​​represent “softer” products and higher CISA values ​​represent “harder” products.

[0156] [Tables3] Trial Cl C2 El E2 E3 Coverage / Spread OK OK OK Very good Good CISA (t=0) 198.5 159.1 166.8 185.9 166.1 CISA (t=1 month) 172.5 174.5 167 175.1 174 CISA (t=6 months) 176 197 171 185 185

[0157] As shown in the table above, the exemplary formulations have similar to, or even significantly improved than, those of a baseline product (here, Cl). Furthermore, such exemplary formulations also have a hardness (see CISA value) that is generally stable over time (e.g., the 6-month CISA value not having decreased by more than 5% and having increased by less than 12% from the baseline value, and preferably by less than 5% of the baseline value). It should be noted that replacing the silsesequoxane resin in the baseline product with larger untreated cellulose particles (C2) resulted in unstable product hardness.

[0158] Furthermore, replacing the resin in the baseline particles with larger cellulose particles treated with esters (E3) resulted in less stable hardness than those treated with metal salts (E2). Thus, it is clear that to achieve stable hardness, you can preferably use small uncoated particles (e.g., 3.5 µm or smaller), slightly larger particles treated with an ester (e.g., 5 µm, 8 µm or 10 µm or smaller), and / or larger particles coated with a metal salt (e.g., 10 µm, 12 µm, 15 µm or 20 µm or smaller).

[0159] A person skilled in the art will recognize or be able to determine, using only simple routine experimentation, numerous equivalents to the specific embodiments of the invention described herein. These equivalents are assumed to be encompassed by the following claims.

Claims

Claims

1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition, comprising: a synthetic polyamide; cellulose particles, comprising: untreated cellulose particles having a particle size of 3.5 pm or less; cellulose particles treated with a salt or an ester and having a particle size of 15 pm or less; a combination thereof; and a colorant; and one or more oils; wherein the anhydrous cosmetic composition is free of a silsesquioxane elastomer.

2. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the salt is a metal salt of a fatty acid, and preferably magnesium stearate.

3. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the one or more oils comprise a hydrocarbon-based oil.

4. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more oils further comprise a silicone oil.

5. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the silicone oil is present in a total amount, by weight, which is greater than the total amount of the hydrocarbon-based oil.

6. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a wax, a fatty ester and a filler.

7. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, wherein: the cellulose particles are present in a total amount of not more than 5% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition; and a ratio of a total amount of synthetic polyamide by weight to the total amount of cellulose particles is 1:4-1:1.

5.

8. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: the one or more oils comprise a base oil of hydrocarbons and a silicone oil and wherein the total amount of hydrocarbon-based oil and silicone oil, combined, is at least 40% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition; the total amount of fatty ester is at least 20% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition; the total amount of wax is at least 10% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition; and optionally, the filler is present in a total amount of at least 5% by weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

9. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein the anhydrous cosmetic composition consists of: the synthetic polyamide; the cellulose particles; the colorant; the hydrocarbon-based oil; the silicone oil; the wax; the fatty ester; the filler; and optionally less than 1% by weight of all other materials.

10. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, wherein a representative value of a hardness of the anhydrous cosmetic composition does not change by more than 5% over six months.