PROCESSES AND COMPOSITIONS FOR TREATMENT OF BLEACHED OR OXIDIZED HAIR

Abstract

PROCESSES AND COMPOSITIONS FOR TREATMENT OF BLEACHED OR OXIDATIVELY COLORED HAIR This disclosure relates to processes and compositions that may be used at home to treat bleached or oxidatively colored hair. The processes include: (i) applying a strengthening composition to the colored or oxidatively bleached hair, the strengthening composition comprising citric acid, one of its salts, or a combination thereof, cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or a combination thereof, one or more polyols, and water; and (ii) without rinsing the strengthening composition from the hair, applying a conditioning composition to the hair, the conditioning composition comprising: one or more cationic surfactants, one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, one or more silicone oils, and water.The processes strengthen hair, improve curl retention, prevent frizz, and repair damage caused by bleaching or chemical coloring. Figure for the summary: none.

Description

Title of the invention: METHODS AND COMPOSITIONS FOR TREATMENT OF BLEACHED OR COLORED HAIR BY OXIDATION SCOPE OF DISCLOSURE

[0001] This disclosure relates to processes and compositions for treating bleached or oxidatively colored hair. The compositions and processes treat or reverse the damage to hair caused by the bleaching or oxidative coloring process. CONTEXT

[0002] Many consumers use cosmetic and care compositions to enhance the appearance of their hair, for example, by changing the color, style, and / or shape of the hair and / or by imparting various cosmetic properties to the hair, such as shine and revitalization. Hair can become dry or damaged for various reasons, for example, exposure to the elements, poor nutrition, mechanical treatments (e.g., brushing), styling treatments using chemicals, dyeing, heat, nutrition, etc. Even cleansing products can remove the hair's natural sebum, which can lead to a dull appearance, split ends, and frizz.

[0003] Chemical hair treatments include bleaching and coloring treatments to change hair color. Chemical treatments also include processes to permanently change the shape and structure of hair, for example, by perming, perming, relaxing, or straightening. These chemical treatments change the appearance of hair by altering its physical structure, which inevitably causes some degree of hair damage. Environmental factors, such as salt water, sunlight, and heat, are also known to damage hair. Damaged hair is characterized by unnatural changes in the protein structure of individual hair strands or shafts.

[0004] The popularity and use of oils for hair treatment have increased due to their effectiveness and simplicity. Commonly used oils include olive oil, mineral oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, rice bran oil, and coconut oil. However, these treatments can make hair greasy. In addition, the effects are not usually visible after several hours (e.g., 8 hours) of treatment, and multiple treatments are usually necessary, making the process time-consuming and laborious.

[0005] Hair damage results in split ends, dryness, breakage, and frizz that makes hair difficult to style. Because the visible part of the hair shaft is dead, it lacks the ability to regenerate itself. Many over-the-counter and salon treatments claim to repair damaged hair. These include conditioners, hot oil treatments, hydrolyzed proteins, vitamin formulations, and extracts of exotic fruits, leaves, or roots. However, these treatments provide little improvement to the hair. Therefore, hair treatment technologies that can smooth, straighten, or style hair without chemically damaging it are desired.

[0006] There is always a need to remedy the damage caused to the hair by the bleaching or oxidative coloring process. DISCLOSURE SUMMARY

[0007] This disclosure relates to processes for treating bleached or oxidatively colored hair. The processes correct hair damage caused by prior chemical bleaching or coloring. A strengthening composition and a conditioning composition are used together in a routine that can be performed at home by consumers. In addition to providing conditioning properties to the hair, the inventors have discovered that the routine remarkably improves the physical and mechanical properties of the hair fibers, and that the improvements are statistically significant. Treating bleached or oxidatively colored hair according to the processes considerably improves the elasticity, strength, and frizz resistance of the hair fiber.

[0008] The routines include:

[0009] (i) the application of a strengthening composition to colored or bleached hair by oxidation and leaving the fortifying composition on the hair for an initial period of time, the fortifying composition comprising:

[0010] (a) citric acid, one of its salts or one of their combinations;

[0011] (b) of cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives or one of their combinations;

[0012] wherein a combined total quantity of (a) and (b) is approximately 2 to approximately 15% in weight;

[0013] (c) one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; and

[0014] (d) water;

[0015] in which all percentages by weight of (i) are based on a total weight of the fortifying composition;

[0016] (ii) after the first period of time, without rinsing the hair strengthening composition, the application of a conditioning composition to the hair and leaving the conditioning composition on the hair for a second period of time, the revitalizing composition including:

[0017] (a) one or more cationic surfactants;

[0018] (b) one or more non-silicone-based fatty compounds;

[0019] (c) one or more silicone oils; and

[0020] (d) water; and

[0021] (iii) rinsing the fortifying composition and the revitalizing composition of the hair.

[0022] The fortifying composition typically has a pH of about 2 to about 6, preferably from about 2 to about 5. In addition, citric acid, one of its salts or one of their combinations (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives or one of their combinations (i)(b) are typically in a molar ratio of about 20:1 to about 3:1 ((a):(b)) and / or a weight ratio of about 8:1 to about 1:2 (a):(b)).

[0023] Citric acid and its salts provide a myriad of benefits to hair. For example, it acts as an antioxidant, eliminates buildup and debris from the hair, and improves blood circulation in the scalp, which in turn nourishes the hair follicles and promotes growth. Its acidic pH is also useful for balancing the scalp's pH, as many hair care products make it more alkaline. The citric acid in these strengthening compositions also interacts with cyclodextrin in a unique way and enhances film formation on the hair, which is further strengthened by heat. Sodium citrate (or trisodium citrate) is an example of a citric acid salt.

[0024] Cyclodextrins are a family of cyclic oligosaccharides composed of a macrocyclic core of glucose submotifs joined by α-linkages 1,4-glycosidics. Cyclodextrins are produced from starch by enzymatic conversion. Typical cyclodextrins contain glucose monomers ranging from six to eight motifs in a core, creating a cone shape; for example, α(alpha)-cyclodextrin has 6 glucose submotifs, β(3)-cyclodextrin has 7 glucose submotifs, and γ(gamma)-cyclodextrin has 8 glucose submotifs. Non-limiting examples of cyclodextrins for use in the fortifying compositions of this disclosure include α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, γ-cyclodextrin, methyl-α-cyclodextrin, methyl-β-cyclodextrin, methyl-γ-cyclodextrin, and mixtures thereof.

[0025] Preferably, citric acid, one of its salts, or a combination thereof, and cyclodextrin, one of its salts, or a combination thereof, are combined. This can be achieved by independently combining citric acid, one of its salts, or a combination thereof, and cyclodextrin, one of its salts, or a combination thereof, before adding them to other components of the fortifying composition. For example, cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or a combination thereof It is preferentially solubilized in citric acid to form a solubilized combination of citric acid and cyclodextrin, one of their derivatives, or a combination thereof. The combination can be heated to facilitate or accelerate the dissolution of the cyclodextrin. The solubility of cyclodextrin in water is not always ideal. Therefore, combining cyclodextrin with citric acid and dissolving the cyclodextrin in citric acid before adding the combination with other components of the fortifying composition can be beneficial.

[0026] Non-limiting examples of polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and glycerin. In various embodiments, at least one or more of the polyols is glycerin.

[0027] In various embodiments, the fortifying composition includes one or more cationic polysaccharides. Non-limiting examples of cationic polysaccharides include cationic guar and its derivatives, cationic cellulose and its derivatives, cationic starch and its derivatives, cationic callose and its derivatives, cationic xylan and its derivatives, cationic mannan and its derivatives, cationic galactomannan and its derivatives, and combinations thereof.

[0028] In various embodiments, the fortifying composition includes one or more polar oils. The polar oils may be volatile or non-volatile.Non-limiting examples of non-volatile polar oils include vegetable-based hydrocarbon oils such as heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, camelina oil, shea oil, avocado oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, cucurbit oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, Quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or rosehip oil; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, and their combinations.

[0029] In various embodiments, the fortifying composition includes one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples include alkoxylated fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, ethoxylated mono- or diglycerides, sorbitan esters, ethoxylated sorbitan esters, fatty acid glycol esters, ethylene oxide, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkyl polyglucosides, and mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, at least one or more of the one or more surfactants or Non-ionic emulsifiers are alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated. Non-limiting examples include straight-chain primary alcohol alkoxylates, straight-chain secondary alcohol alkoxylates, alkylphenol alkoxylates, olefinic alkoxylates, branched-chain alkoxylates, fatty oil or hydrogenated fatty oil ethoxylates, alkyl-sorbitan ester ethoxylates, alkyl glyceride ethoxylates and mixtures thereof.

[0030] The strengthening composition is applied to the hair and left on the hair for a period of time, which will vary. However, the period of time is typically from about 1 minute to about 30 minutes. After applying the strengthening composition to the hair and leaving it on the hair for a period of time, a conditioning composition is applied to the hair. Typically, the strengthening composition is not rinsed from the hair before the application of the conditioning composition. Preferably, the conditioning composition is layered over the strengthening composition already present on the hair.

[0031] The hair conditioning composition includes one or more cationic surfactants. Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate, behennamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isos-tearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, ara-chidamidoethyldimethylamine, bra sicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylaminemyristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine and any combination thereof.

[0032] Non-limiting examples of non-silicone fatty compounds include oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty esters, propylene glycol fatty acid esters, fatty carbonates, polyolefins (such as petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, poly-lybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, vegetable oil and / or hydrocarbon-based oil (such as isohexadecane), triglycerides, or mixtures thereof.

[0033] In various embodiments, at least one or more of the non-silicone fatty compounds is a fatty alcohol. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include those having at least 8 carbon atoms and are linear or branched. In various embodiments, the one or more fatty alcohols have from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, for example caprylic alcohol, pelargonic alcohol, decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, nonadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, heneicosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl aloccol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, the 1-heptacosanol, montanyyl alcohol, 1-nonacosanol and myricyl alcohol.

[0034] Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclohep-tasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, capryl-dimethicone, caprylyl trimethicone, caprylyl methicone, cetearyl methicone, hexadecyl-methicone, hexylmethicone, lauryl methicone, myristyl methicone, phenyl methicone, stearyl methicone, stearyl dimethicone, behenyl dimethicone, trifluoropropyl methicone, cetyl dimethicone, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and phenyl trimethicone, amino-functionalized silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0035] In certain embodiments, at least one or more of the silicones is an amino-functionalized silicone. Non-limiting examples of amino-functionalized silicones include aminopropyl dimethicone, amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and mixtures thereof. Aminopropyl dimethicone and amodimethicone are particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicones.

[0036] In some cases, the hair conditioning composition may include one or more thickening agents. Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include carboxylic acid polymers, cross-linked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polysaccharides, polysaccharide derivatives, gums, starch and starch derivatives, and combinations thereof.

[0037] The revitalizing composition optionally includes one or more water-soluble solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include C2-C6 monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycerin, glycols, or combinations thereof. Polyols preferably have two or three groups hydroxyl. Non-limiting examples include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin and any combination thereof.

[0038] Both the fortifying composition and the revitalizing composition optionally include one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, peptides, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, special materials, etc.), emollients, compositional colorants, or mixtures thereof.

[0039] After application of the conditioning composition, the conditioning composition (which is applied over the strengthening composition already on the hair) can be left on the hair for a second period of time. Although this second period can vary, the conditioning composition typically remains on the hair for approximately 1 to 30 minutes. After remaining on the hair for this second period, the conditioning composition is rinsed from the hair. The rinsed hair is strengthened and revitalized.

[0040] The processes described above and throughout the disclosure strengthen hair, improve hair curl retention, prevent hair frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by hair bleaching or chemical coloring. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0041] Implementations of the present technology will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which:

[0042] [Fig.1] The Figure shows strands of hair treated according to the present disclosure and strands of hair treated with comparative routines after being subjected to a moisture treatment. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE

[0043] This disclosure relates to processes and compositions for treating colored or bleached hair by oxidation. Oxidative bleaching or coloring treatments are popular with consumers because the results are long-lasting. However, repeated or extreme oxidative bleaching or coloring of hair can damage the hair, weakening the hair fibers. Damaged hair becomes dry, brittle, and more prone to frizz. The processes and compositions described in this disclosure address the damage and inconveniences associated with bleaching and oxidative hair coloring. Hair treatment using these processes strengthens the hair fibers, resulting in improved curl retention, less frizz, better hydration, and an overall improved appearance and feel.

[0044] Treating hair that has been bleached or colored by oxidation with the compositions and processes described herein remarkably strengthens the hair to a statistically significant extent. This is illustrated by a higher modulus of elasticity and a higher breaking strength for the hair treated according to this disclosure. The improvement in hair strength is also demonstrated by differential scanning calorimetry, which shows a higher denaturation temperature for the hair treated according to this disclosure. The processes involve first treating the hair with a strengthening composition. After treatment with the strengthening composition, while the strengthening composition remains on the hair, the hair is treated with a conditioning composition.The conditioning formula is applied directly to the hair on which the strengthening formula has already been applied, without rinsing the strengthening formula from the hair before applying the conditioning formula. In other words, the conditioning formula is layered over the strengthening formula that is already present on the hair. More specifically, the process includes:

[0045] (i) the application of a strengthening composition to colored or bleached hair by oxidation and leaving the fortifying composition on the hair for an initial period of time, the fortifying composition comprising:

[0046] (a) citric acid, one of its salts or one of their combinations;

[0047] (b) of cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives or one of their combinations;

[0048] wherein a combined total quantity of (a) and (b) is approximately 2 to approximately 15% in weight;

[0049] (c) one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; and

[0050] (d) water;

[0051] in which all percentages by weight of (i) are based on a total weight of the fortifying composition;

[0052] (ii) after the first period of time, without rinsing the hair strengthening composition, the application of a conditioning composition to the hair and leaving the conditioning composition on the hair for a second period of time, the conditioning composition comprising:

[0053] (a) one or more cationic surfactants;

[0054] (b) one or more non-silicone fatty compounds;

[0055] (c) one or more silicones; and

[0056] (d) water; and

[0057] (iii) rinsing the fortifying composition and the revitalizing composition of the hair.

[0058] The fortifying composition, the revitalizing composition and the steps or routines of the process are described in more detail below. Fortifying composition (i)(a) Citric acid and its salts

[0059] The total amount of citric acid, its salts, or one of their combinations will vary. However, in various embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight of citric acid, its salts, or one of their combinations, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the fortifying composition includes about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 4% by weight, about 2 to about 3% by weight, about 2.5 to about 5% by weight, about 2.5 to about 4% by weight, about 2.5 to about 3% by weight, or about 1, about 1.5, about 2, about 2.5, about 3, about 3.5, about 4, about 4.5, or about 5% by weight of citric acid, its salts or a combination thereof, relative to a total weight of the fortifying composition. (i)(b) Cyclodextrin and derivatives

[0060] The fortifying compositions according to the disclosure include at least one cyclodextrin or one of its derivatives. As used herein, the term "cyclodextrins" includes carboxylic acid salts, whether or not expressly indicated. Cyclodextrins are a family of cyclic oligosaccharides consisting of a macrocyclic core of glucose submotifs joined by α-1,4 glycosidic linkages.

[0061] Cyclodextrins that may be used include those of the following formula: in which: a. R is chosen from H, CH3 or a hydroxypropyl group, and b. n goes from 6 to 8.

[0063] For example, in embodiments where R = H, cyclodextrin can be α-cyclodextrin (n = 6), β-cyclodextrin (n = 7), or γ-cyclodextrin (n = 8). For example, α-cyclodextrin sold by WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W6 PHARMA, or β-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W7 PHARMA, or y-cyclodextrin sold by the WACKER company under the name CAVAMAX W8 PHARMA.

[0064] In other embodiments where R = CH3, the cyclodextrin may be a methyl-cyclodextrin, such as methyl-α-cyclodextrin (n = 6), methyl-β-cyclodextrin (n = 7), or methyl-γ-cyclodextrin (n = 8). For example, methyl-β-cyclodextrin sold by WACKER under the name CAVASOL W7 may be chosen.

[0065] In various embodiments, the at least one cyclodextrin may comprise a mixture of cyclodextrins and / or their derivatives. For example, the at least one cyclodextrin may be a mixture of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, and / or γ-cyclodextrin. In another embodiment, the at least one cyclodextrin includes β-cyclodextrin. In yet another embodiment, the cyclodextrin is solely β-cyclodextrin, and no other cyclodextrin or derivative is present in the fortifying composition.

[0066] In one embodiment, the fortifying compositions according to this disclosure include B-cyclodextrin in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, such as from 0.2% to about 8%, from about 0.3% to about 7%, from about 0.4% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition.

[0067] The total amount of cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or one of their combinations in the fortifying compositions will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight of cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or one of their combinations, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition.In other embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 4%, approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5% to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 1% to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1% to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 1% to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 1% to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 1.5% to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1.5% to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 1.5% to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 1.5% to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.5% by weight, approximately 1% by weight, approximately 1.25% by weight, approximately 1.5% by weight, approximately 2% by weight, approximately 2.5% by weight, approximately 3% by weight, approximately 3.5% by weight, approximately 4% by weight, approximately 4.5% by weight, or approximately 5% by weight of a cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or one of their combinations, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition.

[0068] Combination of citric acid / salts and cyclodextrin

[0069] The total combined quantity of citric acid, its salts or combinations thereof of (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or one of their combinations of (b) will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the total combined quantity of citric acid, its salts or the combination of (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives or one of their combinations of (i)(b) is about 2 to about 15% by weight, relative to a total weight of the fortifying composition.In other embodiments, the total combined amount of citric acid, its salts, or a combination of (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or a combination thereof of (i)(b) is about 2 to about 12% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 6% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 3 to about 12% by weight, about 3 to about 10% by weight, about 3 to about 8% by weight, about 3 to about 6% by weight, about 3 to about 5% by weight, or about 2% by weight, about 3% by weight, about 4% by weight, about 5% by weight, about 6% by weight, about 7% by weight, or about 8% by weight, relative to a total weight of the fortifying composition.

[0070] The weight ratio between citric acid, its salts or one of their combinations of (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or one of their combinations of (i)(b) will vary. However, in some embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or a combination of (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, its derivatives or one of their combinations of (i)(b) are in a weight ratio of approximately 8:1 to approximately 1:2((i)(a):(i)(b)).In further embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, its derivatives, or one of their combinations of (i)(b) are in a weight ratio of about 6:1 to about 1:2, about 5:2 to about 1:2, about 4:1 to about 1:2, about 3:1 to about 1:2, about 2:1 to about 1:2, about 8:1 to about 1:1, about 6:1 to about 1:1, about 5:1 to about 1:1, about 4:1 to about 1:1, about 3:1 to about 1:1, about 2:1 to about 1:1, about 1.2:1, about 1.3:1, about 1.4:1, about 1.5:1, about 1.6:1; about 1.7:1 or about 1.8:1 ((i)(a):(i)(b)). .

[0071] The molar ratio between citric acid, its salts or one of their combinations of (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or one of their combinations of (i)(b) will vary. Nevertheless, in some embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or one of their combinations of (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives or one of their combinations of (i)(b) are in a molar ratio of about 20:1 to about 3:1.In other embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and cyclodextrin or its derivatives of (b) are in a molar ratio of about 18:1 to about 3:1, about 15:1 to about 3:1, about 20:1 to about 5:1, about 18:1 to about 5:1; about 15:1 to about 5:1, about 20:1 to about 8:1, about 18:1 to about 8:1, about 15:1 to about 8:1, about 20:1 to about 10:1, about 18:1 to about 10:1, about 15:1 to about 10:1, about 14:1, about 13:1, about 12:1, about 11:1, about 10:1, about 9:1, or about 8:1.

[0072] In various embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or a combination thereof (i)(a), and cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or a combination thereof (i)(b) are combined before being added to the fortifying composition of this disclosure. For example, cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or a combination thereof is preferably solubilized in citric acid to form a solubilized combination of citric acid and cyclodextrin. The combination may be heated to facilitate or accelerate the dissolution of the cyclodextrin. The solubility of cyclodextrin in water is not always ideal. Therefore, combining cyclodextrin with citric acid and dissolving the cyclodextrin in citric acid before adding the combination with other components of the fortifying composition may be beneficial.

[0073] (i)(c) Polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms

[0074] One or more polyols in the fortifying composition have from 2 to 10 carbon atoms. Preferably, the polyols also have two or three hydroxyl groups. For example, the polyols may be selected from glycols and glycerol. Non-limiting examples of polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and glycerin.

[0075] The total quantity of one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms will vary. However, in some embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 25% by weight of one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition.In other embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 25% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight of one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition. (i)(d) Water

[0076] The fortifying composition typically includes a large proportion of water. The total amount of water will vary but is typically in the amount of approximately 50 to approximately 97% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition. In some embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 60 to approximately 97% by weight, approximately 70 to approximately 97% by weight, and approximately 75 to approximately 97% by weight. weight, about 80 to about 97% by weight, about 85 to about 97% by weight, about 90 to about 97% by weight, about 50 to about 95% by weight, about 60 to about 95% by weight, about 70 to about 95% by weight, about 75 to about 95% by weight, about 80 to about 95% by weight, about 85 to about 95% by weight, about 90 to about 95% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition. (i)(d) Cationic polysaccharide

[0077] A cationic polysaccharide has a positive charge density, for example, from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10 meq / g. Cationic polysaccharides may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged fraction selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary, or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group, and a pyridyl group. The term "amino group" (primary) here refers to the -NH2 group.Examples of quaternary ammonium groups include 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride (CHPTMAC), 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride (EPTAC), diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride (DMDAAC), vinylbenzene trimethyl ammonium chloride, ethyl trimethylammonium methacrylate chloride, methacrylamidopropyl-trimethyl ammonium chloride (MAPTAC) and tetraalkylammonium chloride.

[0078] It is preferable that the cationic polysaccharide has at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a quaternary trialkylammonium group and more preferably a quaternary trimethylammonium group.

[0079] An example of a cationic functional group in cationic polysaccharides, such as cationic guars, is trimethylamino(2-hydroxyl)propyl, with a counterion. Various counterions can be used, including, but not limited to, halides, such as chloride, fluoride, bromide, and iodide, sulfate, nitrate, methyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, one or more cationic polysaccharides are selected from cationic guars. In other embodiments, at least one or more of the cationic polysaccharides is a cationic guar. Guars are polysaccharides composed of the sugars galactose and mannose. The skeleton is a linear chain of mannose residues linked to [3 1,4] to which galactose residues are linked to 1,6 at every other mannose, forming short lateral branches.In the context of this disclosure, cationic guars can be considered as cationic derivatives of guars.

[0080] Non-limiting examples of cationic polysaccharides include cationic guars, cationic celluloses (also called cationic cellulose polymers) tionics), cationic starches, cationic gums, cationic callose, cationic xylane, cationic mannan and cationic galactomannan.

[0081] Cationic guars include cationic hydroxyalkyl guars, such as cationic hydroxyethyl guar, cationic hydroxypropyl guar, and cationic hydroxybutyl guar, and cationic carboxylalkyl guars, including cationic carboxymethyl guar and cationic alkylcarboxy guars, such as cationic carboxylpropyl guar, cationic carboxybutyl guar, and cationic carboxymethylhydroxypropyl guar. In one embodiment, the cationic guar is hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, or a combination thereof.

[0082] The cationic polysaccharide, such as cationic guars, may have an average molecular weight (Mw) between 100,000 Daltons and 3,500,000 Daltons, preferably between 100,000 Daltons and 1,500,000 Daltons, more preferably between 100,000 Daltons and 1,000,000 Daltons.

[0083] In the context of this application, the term "Degree of Substitution (DS)" of cationic polysaccharides, such as cationic guar, is the average number of substituted hydroxyl groups per sugar unit. The DS can be determined by titration. The DS of a cationic polysaccharide, such as cationic guar, can be in the range of 0.01 to 1. Preferably, the DS of a cationic polysaccharide, such as cationic guar, is in the range of 0.05 to 1. More preferably, the DS of a cationic polysaccharide, such as cationic guar, is in the range of 0.05 to 0.2.

[0084] In the context of this application, "Charge Density (CD)" of cationic polysaccharides, such as cationic guar, means the ratio of the number of positive charges on a monomeric unit comprising a polymer to the molecular weight of said monomeric unit. The CD of a cationic polysaccharide, such as cationic guar, may be in the range of 0.1 to 3 (meq / gm). Preferably, the CD of a cationic polysaccharide, such as cationic guar, is in the range of 0.1 to 2 (meq / gm). More preferably, the CD of a cationic polysaccharide, such as cationic guar, is in the range of 0.1 to 1 (meq / gm).

[0085] In some embodiments, at least one or more of the cationic polysaccharides is a cationic cellulose (or "cationic cellulose polymer"), for example, cellulose ether derivatives comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. Cationic cellulose polymers include cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with at least one water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hy- Droxyethyl- and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with at least one selected from methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and dimethyldiallylammonium. Also useful are cationic cellulose polymers having at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms. Cationic cellulose polymers may be quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with a quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals attached to the quaternary ammonium group may preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Aryl radicals preferentially refer to phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

[0086] In various embodiments, at least one or more of the cationic polysaccharides may be a cationic starch. By way of non-limiting example of cationic starches, one may mention starches modified by a salt of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (for example, chloride), such as the product called starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride according to the INC1 nomenclature.

[0087] In various embodiments, at least one or more of the cationic polysaccharides may be a cationic gum, for example, cationic cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, acacia gum, or gum arabic. Non-limiting examples of cationic gums include cationic polygalactomannan derivatives such as guar gum derivatives and cassia gum derivatives, for example CTFA: Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, and Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.

[0088] In some embodiments, the one or more cationic polysaccharides may include polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-67, hydroxypropyltrimonium starch chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium starch chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or one of their combinations.

[0089] The quantity of one or more cationic polysaccharides in the fortifying composition will vary. However, in some embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.05 to approximately 5% by weight of one or more cationic polysaccharides. In other embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.05 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, about 0.8% by weight, about 0.9% by weight, about 1% by weight, about 1.1% by weight, about 1.2% by weight or about 1.5% by weight of one or more cationic polysaccharides, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition. (i)(f) Polar oils

[0090] The fortifying composition may optionally include one or more polar oils.

[0091] The term "oil" is intended to designate any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure. Non-limiting examples of oils include volatile and non-volatile oils, which may be hydrocarbon-based oils, particularly those of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0092] For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone oil" is intended to designate an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0093] “Hydrocarbon-based oil” is intended to designate an oil containing principal composed mainly of hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

[0094] The one or more polar oils may include non-silicone polar oils, silicone polar oils, or a combination thereof.

[0095] For the purposes of the present invention, "polar oil" is understood to mean an oil whose solubility parameter δa at 25 °C is different from 0 (J / cm³)¹ / ². In particular, "polar oil" is understood to mean an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon, or phosphorus atom. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters," J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: a. ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular impacts; b. ôp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles. c. ôh characterizes specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base bonds, donor / acceptor bonds, and the like); d. ôa is determined by the equation: ôa= (ôp2 + ôh2)' / 2.

[0096] The parameters ôp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)' / 2.

[0097] Preferably, the one or more polar oils have a Δ between 4 and 9.1, preferably a Δ between 6 and 9.1, even better between 7.3 and 9.1.

[0098] (i) Non-volatile polar oils

[0099] The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to designate an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg). Non-volatile oils may be selected, in particular, from among non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, which may be fluorinated, and / or non-volatile silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include: • oils based on animal-derived hydrocarbons, • Oils based on vegetable-derived hydrocarbons, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate, for example sold under the name Eldew PS203® by Ajinomoto, triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths from C4 to C24, these chains being optionally linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated;These oils include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, camelina oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, cucurbit oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or rosehip oil; shea butter; or, alternatively, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides. • Synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula Ri COOR2, in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, particularly branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 = > 10. The esters may be selected, in particular, from fatty acid esters, polyol esters and pentaerythrityl esters, diol dimer esters and diacid dimer esters,

[0100] Non-limiting examples of fatty acid esters include cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters and C8-C18 fatty acid esters, preferably C12-C16, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, palmitate of 2-Ethylhexyl, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for example isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for example isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate;

[0101] Non-limiting examples of polyol esters and pentaerythrityl esters include dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate;

[0102] - Fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a chain based branched and / or unsaturated carbon having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms, even better 18 to 20 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol, • Higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and their mixtures; • Dialkyl carbonates, where the two alkyl chains may be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, • Dicarboxylic acid diesters in the C2-C16 range, preferably in the C8-C12 range, and monoalcohol diesters in the C1-C4 range, preferably branched monoalcohols in the C3-C4 range. Preferably, sebacic acid and isopropyl alcohol diesters, such as diisopropyl sebacate, • Non-volatile silicone oils, such as, for example, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant and / or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, di-phenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and dimethicones or phenyl trimethicones of a viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof.

[0103] (ii) Volatile polar oils

[0104] The expression "volatile oil" is intended to designate an oil (or a non-aqueous medium) that is capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, having in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0105] Non-limiting examples of volatile polar oils include linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of < 8 centistokes (8 x 10⁶ m² / s), and having in particular 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. More specific, non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and combinations thereof. Volatile fluorinated oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof, may also be used.

[0106] According to a preferred embodiment, the one or more polar oils are selected from hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, synthetic esters of formula RiCOOR2 in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri+ R2 > 10, fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and contain a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, dialkyl carbonates, C2-Ci6 dicarboxylic acid diesters and CrC4 monoalcohols and their combinations.

[0107] In certain embodiments, the one or more polar oils are selected from triglycerides consisting of esters of glycerol and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C4 to C24; esters of isopropyl alcohol and fatty acids in C8-Ci8, preferably in Ci2-Ci6; fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and contain a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain having from 16 to 22 carbons, preferably from 18 to 20 carbon atoms; dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains being identical, preferably dicaprylyl carbonate; C8-Ci2 dicarboxylic acid diesters and C3-C4 branched monoalcohols, preferably diisopropyl sebacate; and mixtures thereof.

[0108] The polar oil or oils in the context of the present invention may prefer tially be chosen from among glycerol and fatty acid triglycerides in C6-Ci2> glycerol and fatty acid triglycerides in Ci4-C22 isopropyl alcohol and fatty acid esters in C8-Ci8> fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and contain a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain having 18 to 20 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] In certain embodiments, one or more polar oils are selected from glycerol and C14-C22 fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 50% to 100% by weight of linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated C14-C22 fatty acids, including from 0% to 5% by weight of saturated C14-C22 fatty acids such as stearic acid, from 50% to 98% by weight of monounsaturated fatty acids such as ricinoleic and / or oleic acids, and / or from 2% to 70% by weight of polyunsaturated C14-C22 fatty acids such as linoleic and / or linolenic acids, relative to the total weight of fatty acids contained in said triglycerides.

[0110] In some embodiments, the one or more polar oils are selected from glycerol and C6-Ci2 fatty acid triglycerides comprising 45% to 80% by weight of C8 fatty acids and 20% to 45% by weight of Cw fatty acids, relative to the total weight of fatty acids contained in said triglycerides.

[0111] In some embodiments, the one or more polar oils are chosen from fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and contain a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain having 18 to 20 carbon atoms, glycerol triglycerides and Ci4-C22 fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

[0112] Preferably, one or more polar oils are selected from vegetable oils. Preferred, but not limiting, vegetable oils include castor oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, peanut oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, and hydrogenated vegetable oil; and triglyceride vegetable oils known as medium-chain triglycerides, such as coconut oil or triglyceride vegetable oils derived from palm kernel oil. In addition, certain specialty vegetable oils can be produced from a wide variety of vegetable seeds and grains. Non-limiting examples of these oils include malt oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, grapeseed oil, blackberry seed oil, annatto oil, peanut oil and various other oils.

[0113] The quantity of one or more polar oils in the fortifying composition, if any, will vary. However, in some embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition. In other embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, about 0.6% by weight, about 0.7% by weight, about 0.8% by weight, about 0.9% by weight, about 1% by weight, about 1.1% by weight, about 1.2% by weight, or about 1.5% by weight of one or more polar oils, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition. (i)(g) Non-ionic surfactant or emulsifier

[0114] The terms "nonionic surfactant" and "nonionic emulsifier" are used interchangeably in this disclosure and may therefore be referred to as "nonionic emulsifying surfactants." The nonionic surfactant or emulsifier may have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic equilibrium) ranging from 1 to 7.9 or greater than or equal to 8. "HLB" refers to the "hydrophilic-lipophilic equilibrium" associated with the nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. In particular, the "HLB" value relates to the ratio of hydrophilic to lipophilic groups in the emulsifiers and also relates to the solubility of the emulsifiers. Emulsifiers with a lower HLB (such as those with HLB values ​​ranging from 1 to 7.9) are more soluble in oils (lipophilic matter) and are more suitable for use in water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions.Emulsifiers with higher HLB values ​​(such as those with HLB values ​​above 8) are more soluble in water (hydrophilic matter) and are more suitable for oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions.

[0115] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers include alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) may be selected from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof. i. The alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) that are preferably used are those containing at least one alkyl radical in C8-C30, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) motifs ranging from 2 to 200. Examples include (INCI name), PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cocoate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. ii. The alkyl and polyalkyl poly(ethylene oxide) ethers that are preferentially used are those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with an ethylene oxide (EO) number of motifs ranging from 3 to 200. Examples include laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-23, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-15, ceteth-23, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-20, oleth-50, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth-6, steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40, steareth-100, beheneth-100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12-15 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7 and trideceth-10, and their mixtures. iii. The polyoxyethylened alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan that are preferentially used are those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) motifs ranging from 0 to 100. Examples include sorbitan laurate, sorbitan laurate 4 EO, sorbitan laurate 20 EO (polysorbate 20), sorbitan palmitate 20 EO (polysorbate 40), sorbitan stearate 20 EO (polysorbate 60), sorbitan oleate 20 EO (polysorbate 80) and sorbitan trioleate 20 EO (polysorbate 85). iv. The alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ethers that are preferentially used are those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) motifs ranging from 0 to 100.

[0116] The fortifying compositions of this disclosure may include one or more alkanolamides. Non-limiting examples of alkanolamides include fatty acid alkanolamides. Fatty acid alkanolamides may be fatty acid monoalkanolamides, fatty acid dialkanolamides, or fatty acid isoalkanolamides, and may have a hydroxyalkyl group at C2-8 (the C2-8 chain may be substituted by one or more -OH groups). Non-limiting examples include fatty acid diethanolamides (DEA) or fatty acid monoethanolamides (MEA), fatty acid monoisopropanolamides (MIPA), fatty acid diisopropanolamides (DIPA), and fatty acid glucamides (acyl glucamides).

[0117] Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides include those formed by the reaction of an alkanolamine and a C6-C36 fatty acid. Examples include, but are not limited to: oleic acid diethanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, monoisopropa- oleic acid nolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide (Stearamide MEA), behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide (Isostearamide MIPA), erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, cocamide MIPA monoisopropanolamide, cocamide MEA monoethanolamide, palm kernel acid diethanolamide, cocamide diethanolamide, lauric acid diethanolamide, polyoxyethylene, cocamide monoethanolamide, lauric acid monoisopropanolamide (Lauramide MIPA), myristamide MIPA monoisopropanolamide coconut fat (cocamide DIPA) and their mixtures.

[0118] In some cases, fatty acid alkanolamides preferentially include cocamide MIPA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide DIPA, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the fatty acid alkanolamide may be cocamide MIPA, which is commercially available under the trade name EMPILAN from Innospec Active Chemicals.

[0119] Fatty acid alkanolamides include those having the following structure: R4CNR5R é

[0120] where R4 is an alkyl chain of 4 to 20 carbon atoms (R4 can be, for example, selected from lauric acid, coconut acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, babassu fatty acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, maize fatty acid, soybean fatty acid, shea butter fatty acids, caprylic acid, capric acid and mixtures thereof);

[0121] R6 is selected from -CH2OH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl and their mixtures;

[0122] R6 is selected from -H, -CH3, -CH2OH, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, --CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl and mixtures thereof.

[0123] In some cases, one or more of the fatty acid alkanolamides include one or more acyl glucamides, for example, acyl glucamides having a carbon chain length of 8 to 20. Non-limiting examples include lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / capryl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, capryl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, the cocoyl methyl glucamide, lauryl methyl glucamide, oleoyl methyl glucamide oleate, stearoyl methyl glucamide stearate, toumesoloyl methyl glucamide and to-copheryl succinate methyl glucamide.

[0124] The fortifying compositions of this disclosure may include one or more alkyl polyglucosides. Non-limiting examples of alkyl polyglucosides include alkyl polyglucosides conforming to the following formula: Rl-O-(R2O)nZ(x)

[0125] Where R1 is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0126] R2 is an ethylene or propylene group;

[0127] Z is a saccharide group with 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0128] n is an integer from 0 to 10; and

[0129] x is an integer from 1 to 5.

[0130] Useful alkyl polyglucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, the Decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate are among the compounds typically selected. At least one alkyl polyglucoside compound is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, and coco glucoside. In some cases, decyl glucoside is particularly preferred.

[0131] The fortifying compositions of this disclosure may include one or more of various nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples include alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated, or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, whereby the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups may range from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups may range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.Other examples include, but are not limited to, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerol fatty amides comprising, for example, 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono- or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of (C6-C24)alkylpolyglycosides of glycerol; N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (Cio-Ci4)alkylamine oxides or N-(Ci0-Ci4)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0132] Such non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers may preferably be selected from polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene motifs are more particularly oxyethylene or oxy- motifs propylene, or one of their combinations, and are preferably oxyethylene motifs.

[0133] In some cases, the non-ionic surfactant or emulsifier may be chosen from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or fatty acids, preferably Ci2-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or fatty acids, preferably in C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100;Sorbitol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of a C8-C24 fatty acid or fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of a C8-C24 fatty alcohol or fatty alcohols, preferably C12-C22; and mixtures thereof.

[0134] Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be cited include ethylene oxide adducts with lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid esters, and mixtures thereof, in particular those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (under CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (under CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (under CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (under CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and their mixtures.

[0135] As examples of glyceryl esters of fatty acids, stearate of glyceryl (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof.

[0136] As examples of glyceryl esters of C8-C24 alkoxylated fatty acids, one can cite by example polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate.

[0137] Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, such as, for example, the commercially available product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate. under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEG1N by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0138] The total quantity of one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers in the fortifying composition, if any, will vary. However, in some embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition. In other embodiments, the fortifying composition includes about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.01 to about 1% by weight, about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.05 to about 1% by weight of one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers, relative to a total weight of the composition. (i)(h) Miscellaneous ingredients

[0139] The fortifying composition optionally includes one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the fortifying composition and that do not disrupt or materially affect the fundamental and innovative properties of the fortifying composition. Non-limiting examples of ingredients include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), compositional colorants, etc. In various embodiments, the miscellaneous ingredients are selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, compositional colorants, and mixtures thereof.In the context of this disclosure, a "composition colorant" is a compound that colors the composition but does not have a noticeable coloring effect on hair. In other words, the composition colorant is included to give the composition color for aesthetic purposes but is not intended to impart coloring properties to hair. Hair gels, for example, may come in a variety of different colors (e.g., light blue, light pink, etc.), but applying the hair gel to the hair does not visibly change the hair color.

[0140] The total quantity of one or more miscellaneous ingredients in the fortifying composition, if any, will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, relative to the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments In realization, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, or approximately 2 to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions. PH

[0141] The pH of the fortifying composition will vary. However, in some embodiments, a pH below 7 (an acidic pH) is desirable. For example, the pH may be from about 3 to about 6.5, about 3 to about 6, about 3 to about 5.5, about 3 to about 5, about 3 to about 4.5, about 3 to about 4, about 3.5 to about 6.5, about 3.5 to about 6, about 3.5 to about 5.5, about 3.5 to about 5, or about 3.5 to about 4.5 or about 3.5 to about 4. Revitalizing composition (ii)(a) Cationic surfactant

[0142] The term "cationic surfactant" as defined in this disclosure is a surfactant that can be positively charged when contained in the conditioning compositions described in the disclosure. The cationic surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the conditioning composition described in the disclosure.

[0143] Useful monoalkyl cationic surfactants here are primary, secondary, and tertiary amines having an alkyl or alkenyl group approximately 12 to approximately 30 carbon atoms long, preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 to 22 alkyl groups. For example, monoalkyl cationic surfactants include monoalkyl trimonium halide compounds. Non-limiting examples of monoalkyl trimonium halide compounds include cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium chloride, and cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride. Cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, and behentrimonium chloride are preferred.

[0144] In various embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride or one of their combinations.

[0145] Monoalkyl cationic surfactants also include monoalkylami- domainamines. Tertiary amidoamines comprising an alkyl group of about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, preferably of about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms, are particularly useful. Examples of tertiary amidoamines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, and any combination thereof.

[0146] Dialkyl cationic surfactants include those of formula (I) and their salts: Formula (I)

[0147] wherein two of R71, R72, R73 and R74 are selected from an aliphatic group of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably of 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably of 18 to 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, poly-oxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 30 carbon atoms;

[0148] the remainder of R71, R72, R73 and R74 is chosen independently from an aliphatic group of 1 to about 8 carbon atoms, preferably of 1 to 3 carbon atoms, or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 8 carbon atoms; and

[0149] A is an anion, for example, a halide, such as chloride or bromide, a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate such as methosulfate and ethosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0150] The aliphatic groups for Formula (I) may contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether bonds and other groups such as amino groups. Longer-chain aliphatic groups, for example those of about 16 carbons or more, may be saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, two of R71, R72, R73, and R74 are chosen from an alkyl group of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably of 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably of 18 to 22 carbon atoms; and the remainder of R71, R72, R73, and R74 are chosen independently from CH3, C2H5, C2H4OH, CH2C6H5, and mixtures thereof.

[0151] Non-limiting examples of cationic dialkyl surfactants of formula (I) include dialkyl(14-18)dimethylammonium chloride, dimethyl di(tallow alkyl)ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated dimethyl(tallow alkyl)ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, diketyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium bromide and any combination thereof.

[0152] In a preferred embodiment, one or more cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate, behennamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethylimidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyldiethylamine, ara-chidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and one of their combinations.Even more preferably, cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate, or one of their combinations.

[0153] The total quantity of one or more cationic surfactants in the conditioning composition will vary. However, in various embodiments, the conditioning compositions include approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants, relative to the total weight of the composition.In other embodiments, the revitalizing composition includes approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 3% by weight, or approximately 1% by weight, approximately 1.5% by weight, approximately 2% by weight, approximately 2.5% by weight, approximately 3% by weight, approximately 3.5% by weight, approximately 4% by weight, approximately 4.5% by weight, approximately 5% by weight, approximately 6% by weight, approximately 8% by weight, or approximately 10% by weight, of one or more cationic surfactants. (ii)(b) Non-silicone fatty compounds

[0154] The expression "non-silicone fatty compound" is interchangeable with the expression "Non-silicone fatty compound" refers to an organic compound without silicone that is insoluble in water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), i.e., that has a solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.1%. These compounds have a hydrocarbon chain in their structure containing at least six carbon atoms. Throughout this disclosure, any reference to a "fatty compound" is considered to be a non-silicone fatty compound, even if the term "non-silicone" is not used.

[0155] More particularly, one or more non-silicone fatty compounds may be selected from C6-Ci6 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type vegetable oils, synthetic triglycerides, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols, non-salified fatty acids, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and vegetable waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0156] Fatty alcohols, fatty esters, and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular, by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0157] As regards C6-C16 hydrocarbons, they are linear, branched, or facultatively cyclic, and are preferentially alkanes. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, dodecane, and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

[0158] One oil based on hydrocarbons of animal origin that may be cited is perhydrosqualene.

[0159] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.

[0160] Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, containing more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from paraffins liquids, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.

[0161] Fluorinated oils may be selected from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by 3M.

[0162] Fatty alcohols that can be used in the revitalizing composition can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, among which we can mention, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.

[0163] The unsalted fatty acids that can be used in the revitalizing composition can be saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are more particularly selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

[0164] These acids are not salified. This means that they are introduced in the form of free acids and that the revitalizing composition does not include any alkaline agent leading to their salification.

[0165] Esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, which can be used in revitalizing compositions are esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or C1-C26 branched, linear or branched, C1-C26, saturated or unsaturated, linear or C1-C26 branched, saturated or unsaturated, linear or C1-C26 branched, the total number of carbons of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10.Among the monoesters, we can mention dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isonanoate; isostearyl palmitate; . methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyle stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyle or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

[0166] Still within the context of this variant, C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acid esters and C1-C22 alcohol esters and C2-C26 mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acid esters and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohol esters may also be used.

[0167] Other examples may also be cited in particular: diethyl sebacate; dü-sopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate and polyethylene glycol distearates.

[0168] Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferable to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyle, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isonanoate or cetyl octanoate.

[0169] The esters according to this embodiment may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate. More specifically, mono- and diesters, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate / palmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate, or -oleate / stearate of sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose, are used.

[0170] The non-silicone wax(s) that can be used in revitalizing compositions Waxes according to the invention are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, hydrocarbon waxes including paraffin wax, ozokerite and microcrystalline wax, vegetable waxes, for example olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the Bertin company (France), animal waxes, for example beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabelline); other waxes or waxy starting materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes such as the product sold by the Sophim company under reference M82, and polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.

[0171] In a preferred embodiment, the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds are selected from oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty esters, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, at least one of the non-silicone fatty compounds is a fatty alcohol. Preferably, the conditioning compositions include: (i) one or more fatty alcohols; and (ii) one or more additional non-silicone fatty compounds, other than the one or more fatty alcohols.

[0172] (i) Fatty alcohol

[0173] The term "fatty alcohol" refers to an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and typically comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylated (in particular neither oxyethylated nor oxypropylated), nor glycerolated. Fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0174] In various embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include at least one solid fatty alcohol. Solid fatty alcohols are fatty alcohols that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25 °C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, i.e., they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25 °C, 1 atm. Solid fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.Non-limiting examples include lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol. (1-Eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-Docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-Tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-Hexocosanol); montanyyl alcohol (1-Octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-Triacontanol), and combinations thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the revitalizing compositions include at least one solid fatty alcohol selected from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and combinations thereof such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0175] In various embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include at least one liquid fatty alcohol, in particular containing C10-C34, and preferably having branched carbon chains and / or one or more, preferably 1 to 3, double bonds. They are preferably branched and / or unsaturated (C=C double bond) and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms. The liquid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes a C12-C24 branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl group, R optionally being substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. In some embodiments, the liquid fatty alcohols are selected from among the branched saturated alcohols. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group.Non-limiting examples include oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenylic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-l-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, 2-decyl-l-tetracanol, 2-tetradecyl-l-cetanol, and combinations thereof. In other embodiments, the conditioning compositions are free from or substantially free of liquid fatty alcohols, including the liquid fatty alcohols referenced above.

[0176] In a preferred embodiment, the one or more fatty alcohols are linear (straight-chain) saturated fatty alcohols having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and combinations thereof.

[0177] The total amount of one or more fatty alcohols in the revitalizing composition will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of one or more fatty alcohols is from approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, preferably from approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the revitalizing composition. In other embodiments, the revitalizing composition includes approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 8% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, relative to a total weight of the revitalizing composition.

[0178] (ii) Additional non-silicone fatty compound

[0179] Additional non-silicone fatty compounds other than one or more fatty alcohols include the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds mentioned above under the heading "(ii)(b) Non-silicone fatty compounds." The total amount of the one or more additional non-silicone fatty compounds (in addition to the one or more fatty alcohols), if any, will vary. However, in some embodiments, the conditioning composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight of the one or more additional non-silicone compounds.In other embodiments, the revitalizing composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 3 to approximately 6% by weight of one or more additional non-silicone fatty compounds, relative to the total weight of the revitalizing composition.

[0180] The total amount of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds (fatty alcohols and / or one or more additional non-silicone fatty compounds) in the conditioning compositions will vary. However, in some embodiments, the conditioning compositions include approximately 1 to approximately 20% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, relative to the total weight of the conditioning compositions.In other embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 8 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 8 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 8 to approximately 12% by weight, or approximately 8% by weight, approximately 9% by weight, approximately 10% by weight, approximately 11% by weight, approximately 12% by weight, approximately 13% by weight, approximately 14% by weight of one or more fatty compounds non-silicone, in relation to the total weight of the composition. (ii)(c) Silicon oil

[0181] Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsi-lylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In a preferred embodiment, One or more silicones are non-volatile silicone oils. Useful silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes with alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant and / or at the ends of the silicone chain, each of which contains 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes, or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates. Other examples of silicone oils include volatile linear or cyclic silicones, such as those with a viscosity of 8 centistokes and / or containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms. These silicones optionally include alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms.Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, deca-methylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the conditioning compositions include one or more silicone oils selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone and amodimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, and combinations thereof.

[0182] The total quantity of one or more silicone oils in the conditioning composition, if any, will vary. However, in some embodiments, the conditioning compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the conditioning composition. In other embodiments, the conditioning compositions include from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight or about 2 to about 3% by weight of one or more silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the conditioning composition.

[0183] Preferably, at least one or more of the silicone oils is an amino-functionalized silicone. The expression "amino-functionalized silicone" or the term "aminosilicones" refers to a silicone containing at least one primary amino, secondary amino, tertiary amino, and / or quaternary ammonium group. The structure of the amino-functionalized silicone may be linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic. The amino functional group may be at any position in the silicone molecule, preferably at the end of the backbone (e.g., in the case of amodimethicones) and / or in the side chain. In some cases, a Amino-functionalized silicone is chosen from compounds meeting the following formula:

[0184] in which: a. each R1 is chosen independently from a Cr30 alkyl group, a Cr30 alkoxy group, a C5-30 aryl group, a C6-30 aralkyl group, a C6-30 aralkyloxy group, a Cr30 alkaryl group, a Cr30 al-coxyaryl group, and a hydroxy group (preferably, each R1 is chosen independently from a Ci-30 alkyl group, a Cr30 alkoxy group and a hydroxy group); b. each R2 is independently a divalent alkylene radical having one to ten carbon atoms (preferably, R2 is a divalent alkylene radical having three to six carbon atoms); c. each R3 is chosen independently from a Ci-30 alkyl group, a C5-C30 aryl group, a C6-C3o aralkyl group and a CrC3o alkaryl group (preferably each R3 is chosen independently from one of a Cr30 alkyl group); d. Q is a monovalent radical chosen from -NR42 and -NR4(CH2)VNR42; e. each R4 is chosen independently from a hydrogen and an alkyl group at C1-4; f. x is equal to 2 to 6; g. z is equal to 0 or 1; h. n is equal to 25 to 3000 (preferably, 25 to 2000; more preferably, 25 to 1,000; most preferably 25 to 500); and i. m is worth 0 to 3000 (preferably, 0 to 2000; more preferentially, 0 to 1000; most preferentially, 0 to 100);

[0185] provided that at least 50% by moles of the total number of groups R1 and R3 are methyl and provided that when m is 0, z is 1.

[0186] Preferred R1 groups include methyl, methoxy, ethyl, ethoxy, propyl, propoxy, isopropyl, isopropoxy, butyl, butoxy, isobutyl, isobutoxy, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, tolyl, and hydroxy. Divalent alkylene radicals R2 Preferred include trimethylene, tetramethylene, pentamethylene, -CH2CH(CH3)CH2 and CH2CH2CH(CH3)CH2.

[0187] Preferred R3 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, and tolyl. Preferred R4 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, and isobutyl. When z is 0, the amino-functionalized silicone has only dangling amine functional substituents in the polymer chain. When z is 1, the amino-functionalized silicone may have only terminal amine functional substituents (e.g., m = 0) or may have both terminal and dangling amine functional substituents in the polymer chain (e.g., m > 0). Preferably, n + m is 50 to 1000. More preferably, n + m is 50 to 750. Even more preferably, n + m is 50 to 500. Most preferably, n + m is 50 to 250.

[0188] In some cases, amino-functionalized silicones are alkoxylated and / or hydroxylated aminosilicones. Suitable alkoxylated and / or hydroxylated aminosilicones may be selected from compounds of the following formula:

[0189] in which R3 is a hydroxyl or OR5, R5 is a Ci-C4 alkyl group, R4 is a group with a structure according to the following formula: - CH2 CH CH2 NH (CH2)h NHg R®

[0190] R6 is an alkyl in CrC4, n is 1 to 4, x is the same as "n" described above, and y is the same as "m" described above.

[0191] The silicone may be a polysiloxane corresponding to the following formula:

[0192] in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between approximately 5000 and 500,000;

[0193] b) amino silicones corresponding to the following formula:

[0194] R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a

[0195] in which: a. G, which may be identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or an alkyl group in CrC8, for example a methyl, or an alkoxy in CrC8, for example a methoxy, b. a, which may be identical or different, designate the digit 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0; c. b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1; d. m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in parallel particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; e. R', which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

[0196] -NR"-QN(R")2

[0197] -N(R”)2

[0198] -N+(R")3 A-

[0199] -N+H(R")2 A-

[0200] -N+H2(R") A-

[0201] -N(R")-Q-N+R"H2 A-

[0202] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")2H A-

[0203] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")3 A-,

[0204] in which R", which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen, a phenyl, a benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example an alkyl radical in Ci-C2o; Q denotes a linear or branched CrH2r group, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as a fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0205] Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones corresponding to the following formula:

[0206] in which: a. m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can go from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; b. Rb R2, R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci-C4, where at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designates an alkoxy radical.

[0207] The alkoxy radical is preferentially a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferentially from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly, is equal to 0.3:1. The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of silicone is preferentially from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

[0208] Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula:

[0209] in which: a. p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) goes from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; knowing that p can denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and that q can denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; b. Rb R2, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designates an alkoxy radical.

[0210] The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly, is equal to 1:0.95.

[0211] Another group of amino silicones is represented by the following formula: CH3 P—Si—OH

[0212] in which: a. m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; b. A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferentially linear.

[0213] The average molecular weight by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferentially ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200,000.

[0214] Another group of amino silicones is represented by the following formula:

[0215] in which: a. m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; b. A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferentially branched.

[0216] The average molecular weight by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferentially ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.

[0217] Another group of amino silicones is represented by the following formula: R—CH2— CHOH—CH2—N*(Rb)3 Q" rnr r 5

[0218] in which: a. R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8 or an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, for example a methyl; b. R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkylenoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8, linked to Si via a SiC bond; c. Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or a salt of organic acid (e.g. acetate); d. r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; e. s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.

[0219] Such amino silicones are described more particularly in US patent 4,185,087.

[0220] A group of quaternary ammonium silicones is represented by the following formula:

[0221] in which: a. R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a nucleus containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example a methyl; b. R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkylenoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8, linked to Si via a SiC bond; c. R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Ci8 alkyl radical, a C2-Ci8 alkenyl radical or an -R6-NHCOR7x radical; d. X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride, or a salt of organic acid (e.g. an acetate); e. r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 200 and in particular of 5 to 100. These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0530974.

[0222] A group of quaternary ammonium silicones is represented by the following formula:

[0223] in which: a. Rb R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, designate a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group; b. R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group; c. n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; d. m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

[0224] and in which x is chosen such that the amine index is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g; a. Multiblock polyoxyalkylated amino silicones, of the type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylated block containing at least one amine group.

[0225] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating motifs conforming to the following general formulas:

[0226] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2- R -N(R")- R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -R'-N(H)-R-]

[0227] or alternatively

[0228] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2- R -N(R")- R' - O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -]

[0229] in which: a. a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; b. b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; c. x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more specifically from 10 to 5,000; d. R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; e. R, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent C2-Ci2 linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denotes a -CH2 CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; f. R', which may be identical or different, represent a radical based of divalent C2-Ci2 linear or branched hydrocarbons, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably, R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0230] The siloxane blocks preferentially represent between 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85% by moles.

[0231] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone oil is preferably between 5000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

[0232] Non-limiting examples of amino-functionalized silicones include bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, a particularly useful amino-functionalized silicone is bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, where X is isobutyl and one of the Rs is OH and the other is OCH3 in the above structure, also known as "Bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone" and "3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, di-Me, with [(hydroxydimethylsilyl)oxy]- and [(methoxydimethylsilyl)oxy] terminations." Bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone is commercially available under the trade name DOWSIL AP-8087 FLUID from Dow Chemical. Amodimethicone is a particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicone. A non-limiting example of amodimethicone products containing amino silicones having structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 652, BELSIL ADM 4000 E, or BELSIL ADM LOG 1. A product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300. In addition, or alternatively, the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferentially ranges from 2,000 to 200,000, more particularly from 5,000 to 100,000, and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000.

[0233] In a preferred embodiment, one or more amino-functionalized silicones are selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof. In another preferred embodiment, amino-functionalized silicone is amodimethicone.

[0234] The total quantity of one or more amino-functionalized silicones in the conditioning compositions, if any, will vary. However, in some embodiments, the conditioning compositions include from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones, relative to the total weight of the conditioning composition. In other embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight or about 2 to about 3% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones, relative to the total weight of the revitalizing composition. (ii)(d) Water

[0235] The total amount of water in the conditioning compositions will vary. However, in some embodiments, the conditioning compositions include approximately 50 to approximately 90% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the conditioning composition. In other embodiments, the conditioning compositions include approximately 60 to approximately 90% by weight, approximately 65 to approximately 90% by weight, approximately 70 to approximately 90% by weight, approximately 50 to approximately 85% by weight, approximately 60 to approximately 85% by weight, approximately 65 to approximately 85% by weight, approximately 70 to approximately 85% by weight, approximately 75 to approximately 85% by weight, approximately 78 to approximately 80% by weight, and approximately 82 to approximately 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the conditioning composition. (ii)(e) Thickening agent

[0236] The conditioning composition may optionally include one or more thickening agents (also called thickeners or viscosity-modifying agents). Many thickening agents are water-soluble and increase the viscosity of water or form an aqueous gel when dispersed / dissolved in water. The aqueous solution may be heated and cooled, or neutralized, to form the gel, if necessary. The thickening agent may be dispersed / dissolved in an aqueous solvent that is water-soluble, for example, ethyl alcohol when dispersed / dissolved in water.

[0237] Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia seneca gum, sclerotium gum, agarose, pectin, gellan gum, starch and its derivatives. In some cases, one or more thickening agents may include polymeric thickening agents, for example, those selected from polyvinyl pyr-rolidone, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamide, a carbomer and a C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer.

[0238] (i) Carboxylic acid polymers

[0239] These polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyhydric alcohol.

[0240] Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers useful here include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol. Carbomers are available in BF Goodrich's "Carbopol.RTM 900" range (e.g., "Carbopol® 954"). In addition, other suitable carboxylic acid polymer agents include "Ultrez® 10" (BF Goodrich) and copolymers of C10-30 alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their short-chain esters (i.e., a Cl-4 alcohol), wherein the crosslinking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as C10-C30 alkyl acrylate / acrylate crosslinked polymers and are commercially available under the names "Carbopol® 1342", "Carbopol® 1382", "Pemulen TR-1" and "Pemulen TR-2" from BFGoodrich. In other words, the examples of useful carboxylic acid polymer thickeners here are those chosen from carbomers, C10-C30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers, and their combinations. Other, non-limiting examples of thickening agents include crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, and gums, as shown below.

[0241] (ii) Crosslinked polyacrylate polymers

[0242] The revitalizing compositions of this disclosure may optionally contain crosslinked polyacrylate polymers useful as thickeners or gelling agents, including both cationic and nonionic polymers.

[0243] (iii) Polyacrylamide polymers

[0244] The revitalizing compositions of this disclosure may optionally contain polyacrylamide polymers, including polyacrylamide polymers comprising substituted branched or unbranched polymers. These polyacrylamide polymers include the CTFA poly- designation polymer. acrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the trade name "Sepigel 305" from Seppic Corporation.

[0245] Other polyacrylamide polymers useful here include acrylamides and acrylic acid-substituted acrylamides multiblock copolymers and acrylic acid-substituted acrylamides. Commercially available examples of such multiblock copolymers include "Hypan SR150H", "Hypan SS500V", "Hypan SS500W" and "Hypan SSSA100H" from Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

[0246] Revitalizing compositions may also contain thickening and texturizing gels of the type represented, for example, by the United Guardian product line called "Lubrajel®". These gels have moisturizing, viscosifying and stabilizing properties.

[0247] (iv) Polysaccharides

[0248] A wide variety of polysaccharides can be useful here. "Polysaccharides" refers to gelling agents that contain a backbone of repeating sugar units (i.e., carbohydrates). Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from the group consisting of cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and combinations thereof. Alkyl-substituted celluloses are also useful here. Among the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers, the designation material CTFA cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is cetyl alcohol ether of hydroxyethylcellulose, is preferred. This material is sold under the trade name "Natrosol® CS Plus" by Aqualon Corporation.

[0249] Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1 to 3) glucose motifs linked with a (1 to 6) glucose linked every three motifs, one commercially available example of which is "Clearogel™ CS11" by Michel Mercier Products Inc.

[0250] Erasers

[0251] Other useful thickening and gelling agents here include materials that are primarily derived from natural sources. Non-limiting examples of such gelling agents include acacia gum, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, camitin, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropylchitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, car- Sodium raghenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, biosaccharide gum, and their combinations.

[0252] Other examples of water-soluble thickeners include natural water-soluble polymers, synthetic water-soluble polymers, clay minerals, and silicic anhydride.Non-limiting examples of water-soluble natural polymers include gum arabic, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, sodium alginate, propylene glycol alginic acid ester, carrageenan, farcelluran, agar, high methoxy pectin, low methoxy pectin, xanthine, chitosan, starch (e.g., starch derived from maize, potato, wheat, rice, sweet potato, and tapioca; alpha-starch; soluble starch), fermentation polysaccharide (e.g., xanthan gum, pullulan, carciran, dextran), acid heteropolysaccharide derived from the callus of plants belonging to the Polyante species (e.g., tuberous polysaccharide), and proteins (e.g., Examples include sodium casein, gelatin, and albumin), chondroitin sulfate, and hyaluronic acid.

[0253] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble synthetic polymers include polyvinyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polymethacrylate, polyacrylic acid glycerin ester, carboxyvinyl polymer, polyacrylamide, polyvinylpyrolidone, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinyl sulfone, maleic acid copolymer, polyethylene oxide, polydiallylamine, polyethylene imine, water-soluble cellulose derivatives (e.g., carboxymethylcellulose, methyl cellulose, methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium salt of cellulose sulfate) and starch derivatives (e.g., starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, and hydroxypropyl starch), phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch).

[0254] The total quantity of one or more thickening agents, if any, will vary. However, in some embodiments, the conditioning composition includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 8% by weight of one or more thickening agents. In other embodiments, the revitalizing composition includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, or approximately 0.5 at approximately 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the revitalizing composition. (ii)(f) Water-soluble solvent

[0255] The term "water-soluble organic solvent" is interchangeable with "water-soluble solvent" and "water-miscible solvent" and refers to a compound that is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., Ci-8, Ci-4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0256] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (for example, Cho, Ci-8, or CM alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of monoalcohols and polyols include ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin.

[0257] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethyl-lolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-l,4-diol, 2-ethyl-l,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-l,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as monomethyl ethylene glycol ether, monoethyl ethylene glycol ether, monobutyl ethylene glycol ether, monomethyl ethylene glycol ether acetate, monomethyl diethylene glycol ether, monoethyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl diethylene glycol ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, monomethyl propylene glycol ether, monoethyl propylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl propylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl ether of; propylene glycol, mono-isopropyl ether of propylene glycol, monomethyl ether of dipropylene glycol, monoethyl ether of dipropylene glycol, mono-n-propyl ether of dipropylene glycol and mono-isopropyl ether of dipropylene glycol; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dhne-ethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane and a mixture thereof.

[0258] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and any mixture thereof.

[0259] In a preferred embodiment, the revitalizing composition includes one or more glycols selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol and combinations thereof.

[0260] The total amount of one or more water-soluble solvents in the conditioning compositions, if any, will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the conditioning compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 20% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, relative to the total weight of the compositions.In other embodiments, the compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, relative to the total weight of the conditioning compositions. (ii)(g) Miscellaneous ingredients.

[0261] Revitalizing compositions may optionally include one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the revitalizing compositions and that do not disrupt or materially affect the fundamental and innovative properties of the compositions. Non-limiting examples Miscellaneous ingredients include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), compositional colorants, etc. In various embodiments, the miscellaneous ingredients are selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, compositional colorants, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of this disclosure, a "compositional colorant" is a compound that colors the composition but does not have an appreciable coloring effect on the hair.In other words, the colorant is included to give the product color for aesthetic purposes but is not intended to impart coloring properties to the hair. Hair gels, for example, may come in a variety of different colors (e.g., light blue, light pink, etc.), but applying the hair gel to the hair does not visibly change the hair color.

[0262] The total quantity of one or more miscellaneous ingredients in the revitalizing compositions, if any, will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, relative to the total weight of the compositions.In other embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, or approximately 2 to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight revitalizing compositions. Treatment routine

[0263] The processes according to this disclosure consist of first treating the hair with a strengthening composition, which can be considered a pretreatment step (and in such cases, the strengthening composition can be considered a pretreatment composition). After treatment with the strengthening composition, the hair is then treated with a conditioning composition. The conditioning composition is applied directly to the hair to which the strengthening composition has already been applied. In other words, the conditioning composition is applied directly to the hair to which the strengthening composition has already been applied. applied over the fortifying composition which is present on the hair, that is to say the fortifying composition is not rinsed from the hair before treatment with the revitalizing composition.

[0264] The processes described throughout the disclosure may further include the step of bleaching or oxidatively coloring the hair before applying the strengthening composition. For example, in some embodiments, the hair may be bleached or oxidatively colored on the same day that the strengthening composition is applied to the hair. The bleaching or oxidatively coloring composition used to bleach or oxidatively color the hair is typically rinsed from the hair before the strengthening composition is applied. For example, the bleaching or oxidatively coloring composition is rinsed from the hair and may optionally be cleansed (for example, with a shampoo composition, which is rinsed from the hair) before the strengthening composition is applied.Hair may be bleached or oxidatively colored and, on the same day, treated with the strengthening and conditioning compositions. The strengthening and conditioning compositions may be applied, for example, within 24 hours, 12 hours, 6 hours, 2 hours, or 1 hour after rinsing the bleaching or oxidative coloring composition. In other embodiments, the hair is not bleached or oxidatively colored on the same day as the treatment with the strengthening and conditioning compositions. In such cases, the hair may have been bleached or oxidatively colored one or more days before the treatment with the strengthening and conditioning compositions; or may have been bleached or oxidatively colored one or more weeks before the treatment with the strengthening and conditioning compositions.

[0265] In various embodiments, the hair has been bleached or oxidatively colored more than once (for example, twice or more, three times or more, four times or more, etc.) before treatment with the strengthening and conditioning composition. In particular, bleached or oxidatively colored hair may suffer damage caused by one or more bleaching or oxidative coloring treatments. This damaged hair may suffer from dryness, brittleness, a dull appearance, breakage, split ends, frizz or a strong tendency to frizz, fiber weakness, or a combination thereof.

[0266] Bleached or oxidatively colored hair may optionally be cleansed before treatment with the strengthening composition. A shampoo composition is applied to the hair, usually spread or distributed by massaging over the entire length of the hair, and rinsed from the hair. If the strengthening composition is applied immediately after cleansing the hair, the hair will already be The hair may be damp or wet due to rinsing out the shampoo. However, the strengthening formula can be applied to hair whether it is wet, damp, or dry. If the hair is not washed before applying the strengthening formula, it may be dry.

[0267] The strengthening composition is applied to the hair and spread or distributed by massaging it into the entire hair. After application of the strengthening composition, it can be left on the hair for an initial period of time. For example, the initial period of time can range from approximately 1 minute to approximately 1 hour, approximately 1 minute to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 1 minute to approximately 30 minutes, approximately 1 minute to approximately 20 minutes, approximately 1 minute to approximately 15 minutes, approximately 1 minute to approximately 10 minutes, approximately 2 minutes to approximately 1 hour, approximately 2 minutes to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 2 minutes to approximately 30 minutes, approximately 2 minutes to approximately 20 minutes, approximately 2 minutes to approximately 15 minutes, approximately 2 minutes to approximately 10 minutes, approximately 3 minutes to approximately 8 minutes, or approximately 5 minutes.

[0268] The strengthening composition is not typically rinsed from the hair before the application of the conditioning compositions. However, in various embodiments, the strengthening composition may be rinsed from the hair before the application of the conditioning composition. Nevertheless, the hair is not typically cleansed, for example, with a shampoo composition between the application of the strengthening composition and the conditioning composition.

[0269] The conditioning composition is applied to the hair after the first period of time. Preferably, the conditioning composition is applied to the hair and spread or distributed by massaging it over all of the hair without first rinsing the strengthening composition from the hair. After application of the conditioning composition, it is typically left on the hair for a second period of time. This second period of time can be from approximately 1 minute to approximately 1 hour, approximately 1 minute to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 1 minute to approximately 30 minutes, approximately 1 minute to approximately 20 minutes, approximately 1 minute to approximately 15 minutes, approximately 1 minute to approximately 10 minutes, or approximately 2 minutes to approximately 1 hour. approximately 2 minutes to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 2 minutes to approximately 30 minutes, approximately 2 minutes to approximately 20 minutes, approximately 2 minutes to approximately 15 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 10 minutes, approximately 3 to approximately 8 minutes, or approximately 5 minutes.

[0270] After the conditioning composition has been left on the hair for the period of time, the fortifying composition and the conditioning composition are rinsed from the hair.

[0271] After rinsing the fortifying composition and the revitalizing composition of the Hair can be dried. Hair can dry naturally, or it can be dried using a drying device, such as a hairdryer. Similarly, after rinsing out the conditioning treatment, the hair can be styled. Hair can be styled before or after drying.

[0272] In various embodiments, the processes described throughout the disclosure strengthen hair, improve hair curl retention, prevent hair frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative coloring of hair to a greater extent than the embodiment of the process without the fortifying composition.

[0273] In various embodiments, the processes described throughout the disclosure strengthen hair, improve hair curl retention, prevent hair frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by hair bleaching or oxidative coloring to a greater extent than the embodiment of the process with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of citric acid, one of its salts or one of their combinations of (i)(a) but otherwise identical to the fortifying composition of this disclosure.

[0274] In various embodiments, the processes described throughout the disclosure strengthen hair, improve hair curl retention, prevent hair frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by hair bleaching or oxidative coloring to a greater extent than the embodiment of the process with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of cyclodextrin, one of its salts, or one of their combinations of (i)(b) but otherwise identical to the fortifying composition of this disclosure.

[0275] In various embodiments, the processes described throughout the disclosure strengthen hair, improve hair curl retention, prevent hair frizz, and / or correct hair damage caused by hair bleaching or oxidative coloring to a greater extent than the embodiment of the process with a comparative strengthening composition devoid of citric acid, one of its salts, or one of their combinations of (i)(a) but otherwise identical to the strengthening composition of this disclosure, and strengthen hair, improve hair curl retention, prevent hair frizz, and / or correct hair damage caused by hair bleaching or oxidative coloring to a greater extent than the embodiment of the process with a comparative strengthening composition devoid of cyclodextrin,of one of its salts or one of their combinations of (i)(b) but otherwise identical to the fortifying composition of this disclosure. Methods of implementation

[0276] In various embodiments, the processes according to this disclosure include or consist of:

[0277] (i) the application of a strengthening composition to colored or bleached hair by oxidation and leaving the fortifying composition on the hair for an initial period of approximately 1 to approximately 30 minutes, preferably approximately 1 to approximately 15 minutes, more preferably approximately 2 to approximately 10 minutes, the fortifying composition comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of:

[0278] (a) about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1.5 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 5% by weight of citric acid, one of its salts, or one of their combinations;

[0279] (b) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 4% by weight of cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or one of their combinations, in which the cyclodextrin or one of its derivatives is preferably a cyclodextrin or a derivative of a-cyclodextrin, B-cyclodextrin, y-cyclodextrin, methyl derivatives of a-cyclodextrin, B-cyclodextrin, y-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl derivatives of a-cyclodextrin, B-cyclodextrin, y-cyclodextrin, or mixtures thereof, more preferably B-cyclodextrin;

[0280] wherein a combined total quantity of (a) and (b) is about 2 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 6%;

[0281] (c) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, l-3propanediol, glycerin, or combinations thereof, in which more preferably at least one of the one or more polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms is glycerin;

[0282] (d) about 60 to about 96% by weight, preferably about 75 to about 95% by weight, more preferably about 85 to about 96% by weight of water;

[0283] (e) optionally, about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4% by weight of one or more cationic polysaccharides, preferably wherein the one or more cationic polysaccharides are selected from cationic guars, cationic celluloses (also called cationic cellulose polymers), cationic starches, cationic gums, cationic callose, cationic xylan, cationic mannan, cationic galactomannan, or a combination thereof, ... tionics are chosen from cationic guars (also called cationic guar derivatives), preferably in which the cationic guars are chosen from cationic hydroxyethyl guar, cationic hydroxypropyl guar, cationic hydroxybutyl guar and cationic carboxylalkyl guar, including cationic carboxymethyl guar, cationic alkylcarboxy guars such as cationic carboxylpropyl guar, cationic carboxybutyl guar, cationic carboxymethylethyl guar, in particular, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or any combination thereof;

[0284] (f) optionally, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4% by weight of one or more polar oils, wherein preferably the one or more polar oils are selected from non-volatile polar oils, more preferably wherein the one or more polar oils are selected from vegetable oils, for example, castor oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, peanut oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, hydrogenated soybean oil and hydrogenated vegetable oil; and triglyceride vegetable oils known as medium-chain triglycerides such as coconut oil or triglyceride vegetable oils derived from palm kernel oil. In addition, certain specialty vegetable oils may be produced from a wide variety of vegetable seeds and grains.Non-limiting examples of these oils include malt oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, grapeseed oil, blackberry seed oil, annatto oil, peanut oil or any combination thereof;

[0285] (g) optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.05 to about 3% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein, preferably, at least one of the one or more nonionic surfactants is a polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant, more preferably, wherein the one or more nonionic surfactants are selected from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with an ethylene oxide (EO) number of motifs from 2 to 200, for example, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cocoate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil; and

[0286] (h) optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, more preferably approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably one or more ingredients various selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, peptides, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, special materials, etc.), emollients, compositional colorants, or mixtures thereof;

[0287] in which all percentages by weight of (i) are based on a total weight of the fortifying composition;

[0288] (ii) after the first period of time, without rinsing the hair strengthening composition, the application of a conditioning composition to the hair and leaving the conditioning composition on the hair for a second period of time of approximately 1 to approximately 30 minutes, preferably approximately 1 to approximately 15 minutes, more preferably approximately 2 to approximately 10 minutes, the conditioning composition comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of:

[0289] (a) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 5% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants, preferably wherein the one or more cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and any mixture thereof,more preferably in which the cationic surfactants are chosen from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate, or one of their combinations; ,

[0290] (b) about 1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 15% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds; wherein the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds preferably include:

[0291] (i) about 1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 10% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, preferably in which the one or more fatty alcohols are chosen from those having 14 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably in which one or more fatty alcohols are chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and one of their combinations; and

[0292] (ii) about 1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight of about one or more additional non-silicone compounds, preferably wherein the one or more additional non-silicone compounds are selected from non-silicone oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty ester oils, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or mixtures thereof;

[0293] (c) 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, plus preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more silicone oils, wherein preferably at least one of the one or more silicone oils is an amino-functionalized silicone, more preferably wherein the at least one amino-functionalized silicone is selected amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof;

[0294] (d) 50 to about 90% by weight of water, preferably about 65 to about 90% by weight, more preferably about 75 to about 85% by weight of water;

[0295] (e) optionally, about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more thickening agents, preferably wherein the one or more thickening agents are water-soluble thickening polymers, preferably selected from polysaccharide thickening agents, carboxylic acid polymers, cross-linked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, gums, or combinations thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more thickening agents are selected from polyvinyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polymethacrylate, polyacrylic acid glycerin ester, carboxyvinyl polymer, polyacrylamide, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinyl sulfone, maleic acid copolymer, polyethylene oxide, polydiallyl amine, polyethylene imine, water-soluble cellulose derivatives (e.g.,carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, sodium salt of cellulose sulfate) and starch derivatives (e.g., , starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch), or one of their combinations;

[0296] (f) optionally, about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from glycerin, C2-C6 monoalcohols, polyols, glycols, or mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerin, or combinations thereof; and

[0297] (g) optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, peptides, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, special materials, etc.), emollients, compositional colorants, or mixtures thereof;

[0298] wherein all weight percentages of (ii) are based on a total weight of the revitalizing composition; and

[0299] (iii) rinsing of the fortifying composition and the revitalizing composition of the hair.

[0300] The processes described throughout this disclosure, including the process set forth above, may further include bleaching or oxidatively coloring the hair before applying the strengthening composition. For example, in some embodiments, the hair may be bleached or oxidatively colored on the same day that the strengthening composition is applied to the hair. The bleaching or oxidative coloring composition used to bleach or oxidatively color the hair is typically rinsed from the hair before applying the strengthening composition. For example, the bleaching or oxidative coloring composition is rinsed from the hair and may optionally be cleansed (for example, with a shampoo composition, which is rinsed from the hair) before applying the strengthening composition.Hair can be bleached or oxidatively colored and, on the same day, treated with the strengthening and conditioning formulas. The strengthening and conditioning formulas can be applied, for example, within 24 hours, 12 hours, or 6 hours. hours, 2 hours, or 1 hour after rinsing the hair bleaching or oxidative coloring composition. In other embodiments, the hair is not bleached or oxidatively colored on the same day as the treatment with the strengthening and conditioning composition. In such cases, the hair may have been bleached or oxidatively colored one or more days before the treatment with the strengthening and conditioning composition; or may have been bleached or oxidatively colored one or more weeks before the treatment with the strengthening and conditioning composition. In various embodiments, the hair has been bleached or oxidatively colored more than once before the treatment with the strengthening and conditioning composition.

[0301] After rinsing the hair conditioning product, the hair can be dried. The hair can dry naturally, or it can be dried with a hairdryer, etc. Similarly, after rinsing the hair conditioning product, the hair can be styled. The hair can be styled before or after drying.

[0302] In addition to the processes for treating bleached or oxidatively colored hair, this disclosure also relates to the compositions, including the strengthening composition, used in the processes. For example, in various embodiments, this disclosure relates to a strengthening composition, as described throughout this disclosure. For example, in some embodiments, the strengthening composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of:

[0303] (a) citric acid, one of its salts or one of their combinations;

[0304] (b) of cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or one of their combinations;

[0305] in which a combined total quantity of (a) and (b) is approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 6%;

[0306] (c) one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; and

[0307] (d) water;

[0308] wherein the fortifying composition further includes one or more of (e) one or more thickening agents; (f) one or more polar oils; (g) one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers; and

[0309] (h) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients.

[0310] Preferably, one or more thickening agents, if any, are selected from cationic polysaccharides. Non-limiting examples include cationic guar, cationic cellulose (also called cationic cellulose polymers), cationic starch, cationic gum, callose ca tionic, cationic xylane, cationic mannan, cationic galactomannan, or any combination thereof, wherein more preferably one or more cationic polysaccharides are selected from cationic guars (also called cationic guar derivatives), preferably wherein the cationic guars are selected from cationic hydroxyethyl guar, cationic hydroxypropyl guar, cationic hydroxybutyl guar and cationic carboxylalkyl guars, including cationic carboxymethyl guar, cationic alkylcarboxy guars such as cationic carboxylpropyl guar, cationic carboxybutyl guar, cationic carboxymethylhydroxypropyl guar, in particular hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, or any combination thereof.In a preferred embodiment, one or more thickening agents are selected from guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or one of their combinations.

[0311] Preferably, one or more polar oils, as appropriate, are selected from among non-volatile polar oils. Non-limiting examples of useful polar oils include vegetable oils, for example, castor oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, peanut oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, and hydrogenated vegetable oil; and triglyceride vegetable oils known as medium-chain triglycerides, such as walnut oil or triglyceride oils derived from palm kernel oil. In addition, certain specialty vegetable oils can be produced from a wide variety of vegetable seeds and grains.Non-limiting examples of these oils include malt oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, grapeseed oil, blackberry seed oil, annatto oil, peanut oil, or any combination thereof.

[0312] Preferably, the one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers, as appropriate, include at least one nonionic surfactant selected from polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, more preferably, wherein the one or more nonionic surfactants are selected from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) motifs ranging from 2 to 200, for example, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cocoate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.

[0313] It is noted that when the fortifying composition includes one or more polar oils, it also probably includes one or more surfactants or emulsifiers. Non-ionic surfactants. The non-ionic surfactant or emulsifier can be useful for incorporating one or more polar oils into the fortifying composition.

[0314] The fortifying composition may include one or more miscellaneous ingredients, as described throughout the disclosure. For example, the fortifying composition may include one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, peptides, proteins, hydrolysates and / or protein isolates, fillers (for example, organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, special materials, etc.), emollients, compositional colorants, or any combination thereof.

[0315] In various embodiments, the fortifying composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of: a. of citric acid, one of its salts or one of their combinations; b. cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or one of their combinations;

[0316] wherein a combined total quantity of (a) and (b) is about 2 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 6%; a. one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; and b. water; c. one or more thickening agents selected from cationic polysaccharides, preferably selected from cationic guars, such as cationic hydroxyethyl guar, cationic hydroxypropyl guar, cationic hydroxybutyl guar and cationic carboxylalkyl guars, including cationic carboxymethyl guar, cationic alkylcarboxy guars such as cationic carboxylpropyl guar, cationic carboxybutyl guar, cationic carboxymethylhydroxypropyl guar, in particular hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or a combination thereof, more preferably a cationic guar selected from hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or a combination thereof; d. optionally, one or more polar oils; e. optionally, one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers; and f. Optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients.

[0317] in which all percentages by weight of (i) are based on a total weight of the fortifying composition.

[0318] In various embodiments, the fortifying composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of: a. of citric acid, one of its salts or one of their combinations; b. cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or one of their combinations;

[0319] wherein a combined total quantity of (a) and (b) is about 2 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 6%; a. one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; and b. water; c. optionally, one or more thickening agents; d. One or more non-volatile polar oils, preferably in which the one or more non-volatile polar oils are selected from vegetable oils, for example, castor oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, peanut oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, and a hydrogenated vegetable oil; and triglyceride vegetable oils known as medium-chain triglycerides, such as coconut oil or triglyceride vegetable oils derived from palm kernel oil. In addition, certain specialty vegetable oils may be produced from a wide variety of vegetable seeds and grains.Non-limiting examples of these oils include malt oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, grapeseed oil, blackberry seed oil, annatto oil, peanut oil or any combination thereof. e. one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers, wherein at least one of the one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers is a polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant, more preferably, wherein the one or more nonionic surfactants are selected from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with an ethylene oxide (EO) number of motifs ranging from 2 to 200, for example, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cocoate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil; and f. Optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients.

[0320] in which all percentages by weight of (i) are based on a total weight of the fortifying composition.

[0321] An implementation of this disclosure is proposed by means of the following examples. These examples are intended to illustrate the technology but are not limiting in nature. Example 1 (Fortifying compositions)

[0322] [Tables 1] ABC (a) Citric acid CITRIC ACID 2.5 2.5 2.5 (b) Cyclodextrin CYCLODEXTRIN 1.5 1.5 1.5 Total (a)+(b) 4 4 4 Weight ratio (a):(b) 1.7:1 1.7:1 1.7:1 Molar ratio of (a):(b) 10:1 10:1 10:1 (c) Polyol GLYCERIN 1 1 (e) Cationic polysaccharide HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR CHLORIDE HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM 1 1 (f) Polar oil GLYCINE OIL SOYA (SOYBEAN) 1 (g) Non-ionic emulsifier PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 1 (h) Miscellaneous SODIUM HYDROXIDE <5 <5 < 5 (d) WATER QS QS QS PH 3 to 4 3 to 4 3 to 4 Example 2 (Revitalizing compositions)

[0323] [Tables2] D (a) Cationic surfactant CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 0.03 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 1.1 BEHENTRIMONIUM METHOSULFATE 2 (b) Non-silicone fatty compound ZEA MAYS CORN GERM OIL, ISODODECANE, CAPRIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, LAURYL LAURATE, HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER, AND / OR BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHYTOSTERYL DILINOLEYL DIMER DL LINOLEATE 4.5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 6 Total Fatty Compounds 10.5 (c) Silicone AMODIMETHICONE 1.7 AMINOPROPYL DIMETHICONE 0.6 (e) Thickener PVP 0.2 Hydroxypropyl Phosphate Starch 0.7 (f) Water-soluble solvent Butylene Glycol 0.9 Isopropyl Alcohol 0.3 (g) Miscellaneous1 <5 (d) Water QS

[0324] 1 For example, plant extracts, compositional colorants, pH adjusters, proteins or hydrolyzed proteins, perfumes, preservatives, active ingredients, surfactants other than cationic surfactants, etc. EXAMPLE 3

[0325] Tests were conducted to investigate how the compositions and processes described throughout this disclosure benefit bleached or oxidatively colored hair. Machine-bleached Caucasian hair strands (2 gm), curl pattern 4 (CP4), were cleaned with a standard shampoo prior to treatment. All machine-bleached hair strands were cleaned with a standard shampoo before undergoing further testing. One of the cleaned hair strands was used as a control. The other cleaned hair strands were treated with one of the strengthening compositions from Example 1. Each strengthening composition from Example 1 was applied to a hair strand (0.4 g per gram of hair), massaged into the hair strand for 1 minute, and left on the hair strand for an additional 5 minutes. Then, the conditioning composition from Example 2 was applied to the hair to which the strengthening composition had already been applied; that is, the conditioning composition was layered over the strengthening composition and left on the hair strands for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, both the strengthening and conditioning compositions were rinsed from the hair.The hair was analyzed using the Miniature Tensile Tester (MTT) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). One-way ANOVA was used to determine statistical significance between the control, comparative, and inventive routines. Hair frizz was also visually assessed. Elastic modulus and tensile strength were also determined.

[0326] The hair was analyzed using miniature tensile testers (Miniature Tensile Tester, MTT-675, Dia-Stron Ltd). The MTT was used to measure Young's modulus, i.e., the slope of the initial portion of the stress-strain curve, which is adjusted according to the cross-sectional area, representing a measure of the hair's spring-like structure. It also measures the breaking stress, which is the total force required to break the hair fiber. One-way ANOVA was used to determine the statistical significance between the control, comparative, and inventive routines. The results are presented in the Table below and the Figure. The modulus of elasticity represents the elastic property of the fibers. Higher values ​​represent greater elasticity, indicating that the hair is less brittle due to fortification and the absence of dryness and damage.Higher values ​​for breaking strength represent stronger hair fibers, indicating that the hair has been fortified and is not damaged.

[0327] [Tables3] Results MTT Control Inventive ABC Modulus of elasticity (MPa) 1112+147 1243+171 1545+218 1314+367 Statistical significance (p<0.05) a ab cb Tensile strength 134+24 145+20 172+30 145+16 Statistical significance (p<0.05) aaba

[0328] The elastic modulus value increased considerably as shown above. Routines A and C yielded higher values ​​than the Control. Routine B yielded higher values ​​than the Control, Routine A, and Routine C. The breaking stress value increased considerably, as Routine B yielded higher values ​​than the Control, Routine A, and Routine C. Routines A and C are the same as the Control. Overall, B exhibited significantly higher elastic modulus and breaking stress compared to the Control and to A and B. Crosslinking density

[0329] The hair was analyzed using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC, DSC-2500, TA Instruments). DSC is used to measure the denaturation temperature, which is a measure of the thermal stability of proteins in the hair and a representation of protein cross-linking density. Higher values ​​represent greater thermal integrity, which is an indication of greater cross-linking (stronger hair).

[0330] [Tables4] Results DSC Control Inventive ABC Denaturation Temperature (°C) 144.7 ± 0.4 154.8 ± 0.3 154.5 ± 0.1 155.8 ± 0.5 Statistical Significance (p<0.05) abbc

[0331] The denaturation temperature (Td) represents the cross-linking density of keratinous proteins (fibers). Compositions A and B showed a statistically significant increase in denaturation temperature compared to the Control. Composition C had an even higher denaturation temperature, which was statistically significant compared to A and B, and compared to the Control. Frizz Test

[0332] The hair strands were placed in a humidity chamber at 25°C and 80% relative humidity for 4 hours. After 4 hours, the strands were removed from the humidity chamber and visually analyzed. Photographs of the hair strands are shown in the Figure. The results show that the hair treated according to the processes of this disclosure had less frizz and maintained better shape and curls.

[0333] The preceding description illustrates and describes the disclosure. Furthermore, the disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments. However, as mentioned above, it should be understood that it is suitable for use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments, and that it is suitable for changes or modifications in the scope of the inventive concepts as expressed herein, in accordance with the teachings above and / or the skills or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described herein are further intended to explain the best known embodiments of the applicant and to enable other persons skilled in the art to use the disclosure in such or other embodiments, and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof.Consequently, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. The appended claims are also intended to be interpreted as including other embodiments.

[0334] As used herein, the terms "comprising", "having" and "including" are used in their broad and non-limiting sense.

[0335] The terms "a", "an", "the" and "the" are understood to encompass both the plural and the singular.

[0336] The phrase "one of their mixtures" also refers to "their mixtures." Throughout the disclosure, the phrase "one of their mixtures" is used after a list of items, as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the items: "one or more items selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and one of their mixtures." The phrase "one of their mixtures" does not require that the mixture include all of the items A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of the items A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the formulation "one or more elements chosen from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F".

[0337] Similarly, the expression "one of their salts" also relates to "their salts." Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an item chosen from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, one of their salts, and a mixture thereof," it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.

[0338] The salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. The appropriate counterions for the components described herein are known in art.

[0339] The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0340] The term "plurality" means "more than one" or "two or more".

[0341] Except in operational examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions may in all cases be modified by the term "approximately", meaning to within + / - 5% the number indicated.

[0342] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.

[0343] Some of the various identified component categories may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, some compounds may be considered both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fatty compound. If a particular composition includes both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fatty compound, a single compound will serve only as a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier or only as a fatty compound (the single compound does not serve as both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fatty component).

[0344] As used herein, all provided ranges are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of subranges between the given ranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. All ranges and values ​​disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may to serve as a minimum or maximum value to deduce a sub-range, etc.

[0345] The compositions of this case may optionally include one or more surfactants and / or emulsifiers, other than the non-ionic surfactants and emulsifiers described above, for example, one or more anionic, cationic and / or amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants.

[0346] The terms "surfactants" and "emulsifiers" include the salts of surfactants and emulsifiers even if not explicitly stated. In other words, whenever the disclosure refers to a surfactant or emulsifier, it is intended that the salts are also encompassed to the extent that such salts exist, even if the disclosure description may not specifically refer to a salt (or may not refer to a salt in all instances throughout the disclosure), for example, by using language such as "one of their salts" or "their salts." Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants and emulsifiers. However, additional cations such as ammonium ions, or alkanoammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, may also form salts of surfactants.

[0347] The expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used here means that less than about 2% by weight of a specific material is added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the compositions. However, the compositions may include less than about 1% by weight, less than about 0.5% by weight, less than about 0.1% by weight, or none of the specified material.

[0348] All components presented positively in this disclosure may be excluded negatively from the claims; for example, a claimed composition may be "free," "substantially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components that are presented positively in this disclosure. Furthermore, components, compounds, or ingredients described for use in the fortifying composition may be excluded from the revitalizing compositions, and vice versa.

Claims

Demands

1. A process for treating bleached or oxidatively colored hair comprising: (i) applying a strengthening composition to the colored or oxidatively bleached hair and leaving the strengthening composition on the hair for a first period of time, the strengthening composition comprising: (a) citric acid, one of its salts or a combination thereof; (b) cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives or a combination thereof; wherein a combined total amount of (a) and (b) is from about 2 to about 15% by weight; (c) one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; and (d) water; wherein all the weight percentages of (i) are based on a total weight of the strengthening composition;(ii) after the first period of time, without rinsing the hair strengthening composition, the application of a conditioning composition to the hair and leaving the conditioning composition on the hair for a second period of time, the conditioning composition comprising: (a) one or more cationic surfactants; (b) one or more non-silicone fatty compounds; (c) one or more silicone oils; and (d) water; and (iii) rinsing the strengthening composition and the conditioning composition from the hair.

2. A process according to claim 1, wherein the fortifying composition has a pH of about 2 to about 6.

3. Method according to claim 1, wherein (i)(a) and (i)(b) are in a molar ratio of about 20:1 to about 3:1 ((a):(b)).

4. A method according to claim 1, wherein the one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms are glycerin.

5. A process according to claim 1, wherein the fortifying composition further comprises: (e) one or more cationic polysaccharides; (f) one or more polar oils; and / or (g) one or more non-ionic emulsifiers.

6. A process according to claim 1, wherein the revitalizing composition comprises: (b)(i) about 2 to about 12% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols; and (b)(ii) optionally, about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more additional fatty compounds.

7. A process according to claim 1, wherein the revitalizing composition further comprises: (e) one or more thickening agents; and / or (f) one or more water-soluble solvents.

8. A method according to claim 1, wherein the first time period is from about 1 to about 30 minutes and the second time period is from about 1 to about 30 minutes.

9. A process according to claim 1 comprising: (i) applying a strengthening composition to colored or oxidatively bleached hair and leaving the strengthening composition on the hair for a period of time of about 1 to about 30 minutes, the strengthening composition comprising: (a) about 1 to about 10% by weight of citric acid, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof; (b) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight of cyclodextrin, a derivative thereof, or a combination thereof; wherein a combined total amount of (a) and (b) is about 2 to about 15% by weight; (c) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; (d) about 60 to about 96% by weight of water; (e) optionally, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more cationic polysaccharides; (f) optionally, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more polar oils;(g) optionally, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more non-ionic emulsifiers; and (h) optionally, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients; wherein all percentages by weight of (i) are based on a total weight of the fortifying composition; (ii) after the first period of time, without rinsing the fortifying composition; hair conditioning, the application of a conditioning composition to the hair and leaving the conditioning composition on the hair for a second period of time of approximately 1 to approximately 30 minutes, the conditioning composition comprising: (a) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants; (b) about 1 to about 30% by weight of one or more fatty compounds; (c) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones; (d) about 60 to about 90% by weight of water; (e) optionally, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more thickening agents; (f) optionally, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents; and (g) optionally, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients; in which all weight percentages of (ii) are based on a total weight of the revitalizing composition; and (iii) rinsing of the fortifying composition and the revitalizing composition of the hair.

10. A fortifying composition intended for use in the process of claim 1, the fortifying composition comprising: (a) citric acid, one of its salts or one of their combinations; (b) cyclodextrin, one of its derivatives, or one of their combinations; in which a combined total quantity of (a) and (b) is about 2 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 6%; (c) one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; and (d) water; wherein the fortifying composition further includes one or more of the following: (e) one or more thickening agents; (f) one or more polar oils; (g) one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers; and (h) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients.

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