EMULSION COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING A HYDROPHOBICALLY MODIFIED POLYSACCHARIDE COMPOUND AND AN AQUEOUS-PHASE FILM FORMING AGENT
Oil-in-water emulsions with hydrophobically modified polysaccharides and film-forming agents improve the adhesion and resistance of cosmetic compositions on keratinous materials, addressing the limitations of existing products by providing longer-lasting makeup effects.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023011124
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-10-16
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-07
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-10-16
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions for keratinous materials lack improved properties regarding ease of application, adhesion, and resistance to external forces such as mechanical friction, water, sweat, sebum, and oil, particularly in semi-permanent makeup applications.
Oil-in-water emulsions comprising hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compounds and aqueous-phase film-forming agents, optionally with gelling agents and active agents, are used to create primer or fixative compositions that enhance the longevity and resistance of cosmetic compositions on keratinous materials.
The compositions provide improved adhesion and resistance to external forces, ensuring longer-lasting cosmetic effects without daily reapplication, enhancing the persistence of makeup on skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: EMULSION COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING A HYDROPHOBICALLY MODIFIED POLYSACCHARIDE COMPOUND AND AN AQUEOUS-PHASE FILM FORMER FIELD OF INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to oil-in-water (o / w) emulsions (compositions) comprising at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound and at least one aqueous-phase film-forming agent, as well as methods and kits comprising such emulsion compositions in one or more containers or in application. The compositions have beneficial cosmetic properties, including, for example, as primer or fixative compositions for good or improved hold, water and / or sebum resistance, and / or transfer resistance, compared to compositions applied separately. DISCUSSION OF THE CONTEXT
[0002] Currently, in the keratin-based skincare and makeup market, many products claim to offer all-day wear and resistance to external factors such as water, sebum, mechanical friction, etc. (waterproof mascara, meal-resistant lipsticks, long-lasting foundations). Long-lasting products for lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, or face, which can be used at home, are primarily based on synthetic coating polymers in the presence of organic solvents.For lip makeup and face makeup compositions, there are known formulations containing an unmodified silicone resin as a film-forming agent, such as the compound with the INCI name: Trimethylsiloxysilicate or a compound with the INCI name: Polypropylsilsesquioxane, or alternatively, a silicone acrylate copolymer such as the product with the INCI name: Acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer. Long-lasting makeup products for eyelashes and / or eyebrows (mascaras, eyeliners) typically use waxes or film-forming polymer particles in aqueous suspension of the latex type (i.e., styrene / acrylate copolymers) as film-forming agents.
[0003] In addition to these long-lasting products, the current trend is towards semi-permanent makeup. Specifically, in recent years, traditional makeup products have found themselves competing with the semi-permanent makeup market in professional salons. This is found in the eye makeup sector (semi-permanent mascara, permanent eyelash makeup, eyelash extensions, etc.), Eyebrows (semi-permanent pigmentation, also known as blade pigmentation), complexion (freckles, beauty marks, or the entire face, for a healthy glow or radiant complexion), or lips (semi-permanent tattooing). This new trend is driving consumers to seek increasingly longer-lasting results for greater convenience (avoiding daily makeup application and removal, a healthy glow from the moment they wake up, etc.).
[0004] The object of the present invention is to propose compositions which offer excellent persistence of the expected cosmetic effects, in particular of the color of the makeup on keratinous materials (skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows) which can prolong the duration of the cosmetic composition on keratinous materials, as well as improve the hold of the cosmetic composition on keratinous materials and its resistance to external forces such as one or more of the following: mechanical friction, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil, etc.
[0005] Any associated patent references include: • US 11 253 462 discloses low-wax compositions containing silicone polymers among other ingredients; • US 2020 / 0022898 discloses film-forming compositions comprising a first random copolymer of anionic or non-ionic non-crosslinking polyacrylate and a second random copolymer of cationic non-crosslinking polyamide; • US 11,033,478 discloses a self-curling mascara composition containing at least about 7% by weight of a water-soluble or water-dispersible nonionic copolymer that includes a cyclic amide monomer, a cyclic amine monomer, and an acrylamide monomer; • US 2003 / 0082221 discloses compositions containing pullulan; • US 2016 / 0113860 discloses compositions containing silicone-modified pullulan and silicone oils that it thickens; • JP-A H08-208989 is referred to in the previous application, and characterized by the disclosure of silicone-modified pullulan which thickens silicone oil components, but which has an inadequate thickening effect; • CN 111801092 discloses compositions for the impregnation of a material, where the compositions contain PEG or polyether modified silicones and dendrimer-type siloxanes; • FR 3 104 958 discloses compositions containing polyurethane dispersions among other ingredients; and • FR 3 110 849 discloses compositions containing polyurethane and / or acrylic dispersions among other ingredients, with little or no fat.
[0006] There remains a need for improved compositions such as primer compositions or fixative having improved properties with regard to the ease and / or comfort of application of the composition, and / or in particular with regard to improved properties related to better adhesion of the cosmetic composition to keratinous materials and its resistance to external forces such as mechanical friction, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum and / or oil. Summary of the invention
[0007] The present invention relates to oil-in-water (o / w) emulsions (compositions) comprising at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound and at least one aqueous-phase film-forming agent. Preferably, the composition is for application to the skin. Most preferably, the composition is a fixative or primer composition, and / or is in the form of a gel. Also preferably, the composition further comprises at least one gelling agent and / or at least one active agent.
[0008] In a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one compound selected from the group consisting of at least one gelling agent, at least one colorant, at least one active agent, and mixtures thereof. At least two of the gelling agents, colorants, and active agents may be present in the composition.
[0009] In a particular embodiment, at least one aqueous-phase film-forming agent is selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone, a vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, a vinylpyrrolidone / acrylic acid copolymer, a vinyl polyalcohol, an N-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, methacrylamide and N-vinylimidazole, polyurethanes, latex, pectin, water-soluble cellulosic compounds and mixtures thereof, and is preferably a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide, and N-vinylimidazole.
[0010] The present invention also relates to methods of fixing a color cosmetic composition (for example, a composition containing a colorant such as a foundation) and / or priming the keratinous material for a color cosmetic composition by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material (primer) and / or to a color cosmetic composition previously applied to the keratinous material (fixation) in a quantity sufficient to prime the keratinous material for the color cosmetic composition and / or in a quantity sufficient to obtain a fixation of the color cosmetic composition previously applied to the keratinous material.
[0011] The present invention also relates to kits comprising, as separate compositions in one or more containers within the kits, (A) at least one composition of the present invention, in particular a cosmetic fixative or primer composition, comprising at least one poly compound hydrophobically modified saccharide and at least one aqueous-phase film-forming agent; and (B) at least one cosmetic composition comprising at least one colorant.
[0012] The present invention also relates to assemblies, as applied to a keratinous material, comprising (A) at least one first layer of at least one cosmetic composition comprising at least one colorant; and (B) at least one second layer of at least one composition of the present invention, in particular a fixative or primer composition for cosmetic compositions comprising at least one colorant, comprising at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound and at least one aqueous-phase film-forming agent. Preferably, the at least one second layer is applied over the at least one first layer (in which case the second layer is a fixative layer formed by applying a fixative composition over the first layer).However, if at least one first layer is applied over at least one second layer, the at least one second layer is a primer layer formed by applying a primer composition to a keratinous material.
[0013] The present invention also relates to methods for producing oil-in-water (o / w) emulsions (compositions) of the present invention comprising the combination of at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound and at least one film-forming agent in the aqueous phase during the formation of the emulsion composition. Preferably, the composition is a composition for application to the skin. Preferably, the composition is a fixative or primer composition, and / or is in the form of a gel. Also preferably, the composition further comprises at least one gelling agent and / or at least one active agent.
[0014] It must be understood that both the preceding general description and the detailed description that follows are provided by way of example and explanation only, and do not limit the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0015] In the following description of the invention and the claims annexed thereto, it shall be understood that the terms used have their ordinary and usual meanings in the art, unless otherwise specified.
[0016] “Approximately” as used here means to within 10% of the number indicated (for example, "approximately 10%" means from 9% to 11% and "approximately 2%" means from 1.8% to 2.2%.
[0017] “A” or “an” as used here means “at least one”
[0018] “At least one” means one or more and thus includes components in individual products as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0019] As used herein, all proposed ranges are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, and combinations of inter-sub-ranges medians. Thus, a range from 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc.
[0020] “Film-forming”, “film-forming polymer” or “film-forming agent” as used herein means a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film-forming agent has evaporated, been absorbed into the substrate and / or dissipated on it.
[0021] “Wax” as used here is a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at temperature ambient (25 °C) and changes from solid to liquid reversibly, having a melting point above 30 °C and, for example, above 45 °C, and a hardness above 0.5 MPa at room temperature.
[0022] “Surfactant” and “emulsifier” are used interchangeably throughout throughout this report.
[0023] “Substitute” as used herein means comprising at least one substitute. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.
[0024] “Volatile”, as used herein, means having a flash point below about 115 °C.
[0025] “Non-volatile”, as used here, means having a flash point greater than approximately 115 °C.
[0026] “Polymer” as used herein means a compound that is made up of at least two monomers.
[0027] “Mat” in compositions as used herein refers to compositions having little or no light reflection. For example, matte compositions may have average gloss properties, measured at 60°, less than or equal to 10, e.g., 9, preferably less than or equal to 8, 6, 5, 4, or 1, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as 1 to 10, 1 to 5, 2 to 10, 3 to 8, less than 1, less than 3, less than 5, etc. Such measurements may be performed by depositing films to be tested onto a substrate (e.g., a black exfoliating P121-10N panel or a BYK No. 2810 opacity card) using a necking bar (e.g., 1 mil, 3 mil, or 6 mil thick) and an automatic necking machine. The films can then be dried at room temperature and analyzed using a glossometer (BYK: micro-TRLgloss) at an angle of 60°.
[0028] “Exempt” or “substantially exempt” or “devoid of” as used herein This means that although it is preferable for no quantity of the specific component to be present in the composition, it is possible for very small quantities of it to be present in the compositions of the invention, provided that these quantities do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the advantageous properties of the revitalizing compositions of the invention. Thus, for example, "dye-free" means that an effective quantity (i.e., greater than trace amounts) of dye is omitted from the composition (i.e., about 0% by weight), "substantially dye-free" means that a dye is present in quantities not exceeding 0.1% by weight, and "dye-free" means that a dye is present in quantities not exceeding 0.25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The same nomenclature applies to all other ingredients identified throughout the application and in this paragraph, such as, for example, silicone oils (compositions of the invention which are "free of silicone oils", "substantially free of silicone oils" and "oil-free" have meanings consistent with the discussion within this paragraph), even if they are not specifically referred to for each identified ingredient.Thus, for example, "free from phenylated silicone oil" means that an effective amount (i.e., an effective amount of dullness inhibition) of phenylated silicone oil is omitted from the composition (i.e., about 0% by weight), "substantially free from phenylated silicone oil" means that phenylated silicone oil is present in amounts not exceeding 0.25% by weight, and "free from phenylated silicone oil" means that phenylated silicone oil is present in amounts not exceeding 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The same nomenclature applies to all other ingredients identified throughout the application and in this paragraph, such as, for example, (1) mattifying fillers (compositions of the invention that are "free of mattifying fillers," "substantially free of mattifying fillers," and "devoid of mattifying fillers") and (2) additional film-forming agents other than the hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound and the aqueous-phase film-forming agent (compositions of the invention that are "free of additional film-forming agents," "substantially free of additional film-forming agents," and "devoid of additional film-forming agents"). These terms have meanings consistent with the discussion in this paragraph, even if they are not specifically invoked for each identified ingredient. The examples of the use of such language as those in this paragraph are intended to be provided by way of illustration, not limitation.
[0029] The "makeup result" as used herein refers to compositions where the color remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, as seen with the naked eye, after a prolonged period of time. The "makeup result" Longevity can be assessed by evaluating the properties of a product using any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, longevity can be assessed by a test involving the application of a composition to keratinous materials such as the lips and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period. For instance, the color of a composition can be evaluated immediately after application to keratinous materials such as the lips, and these characteristics can then be re-evaluated and compared after a certain time. Furthermore, these characteristics can be evaluated in relation to other compositions, such as commercially available ones.
[0030] “Keratinous material” or “keratin material” means natural nails, the lips, skin such as that of the face, body, hands and the area around the eyes, and keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, human hair, as well as synthetic additions, such as false eyelashes, false eyebrows, false nails, etc.
[0031] “Physiologically acceptable” means compatible with keratinous material and having a pleasant color, odor, and feel, and which does not cause unacceptable discomfort (tingling or pulling) likely to discourage a consumer from using the composition. The compositions of the present invention may be in the form of a gel composition.
[0032] The term “gel composition” means a composition that does not flow like a liquid when applied to a substrate, a composition that has a three-dimensional network that prevents the composition from spreading on, or flowing off, a substrate after application due to gravity over a short period of time (e.g., less than 10 seconds). G' (storage modulus) is greater than G” (loss modulus) in all stress ranges up to a stress of 300%. Preferably, G' (storage modulus) is greater than G” (loss modulus) at low stress, but with G' decreasing and G” increasing, and the gel exhibits the crossover point at > 0.1% stress, preferably > 1% stress, and preferably less than 200% stress, preferably less than 150% stress.
[0033] The expression "freeze crossing point" (Sol / Fel point) means the point at which G" (loss modulus) intersects G' (storage modulus), reported as a % stress. This is the point at which a composition transitions from a more solid to a more liquid state. An example of a method for determining a freeze crossing point is as follows: G" (loss modulus) and G' (storage modulus) using a TA Instruments Discovery HR-3 rheometer, having a parallel plate geometry of 40 mm on a flat stainless steel Peltier plate. The test can be performed at 25 °C with an angular frequency test parameter of 1.0 rad / s and a logarithmic sweep: % stress from 0.01 to 1000.0%. 5 points per decade. Results reported as a % of constraint.
[0034] “Natural compound” means any compound derived directly from a natural substance such as a plant without having undergone any chemical modification.
[0035] “Compound of natural origin” means any compound derived from a a natural compound which has undergone one or more chemical modifications, for example by organic synthesis reaction, without the properties of the natural compound having been modified.
[0036] “Synthetic compound” means any compound that is not a compound natural nor a compound of natural origin.
[0037] “Ambient temperature” means 25 °C.
[0038] “Atmospheric pressure” means 760 mmHg, i.e. 105 pascals.
[0039] The compositions and methods of the present invention may comprise, consist, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredient, component, or limitation described herein or otherwise useful. For example, the aqueous-phase solvent system may "consist essentially of" water and a C2-C5 monoalcohol, and / or the film-forming system of the composition may consist essentially of the hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound and the aqueous-phase film-forming agent; similarly, the oil-phase film-forming system may consist essentially of the hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound.
[0040] For the purposes of the present invention, the "fundamental and innovative property" associated with compositions, components and processes that "consist essentially of" identified ingredients or actions is resistance to transfer.
[0041] Reference is made herein to trade names of materials comprising, but not limited to, optional polymers and components. The inventors herein do not intend to limit themselves to the materials described and referenced by a particular trade name. Equivalent materials (for example, those obtained from a different source under a different name or catalogue (reference) number) to those referenced by a trade name may be substituted and used in the processes described and claimed herein.
[0042] All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise stated. All percentages are calculated on the basis of the total weight of a composition unless otherwise stated. All component or composition levels refer to the active level of that component or composition and are understood to exclude impurities, for example, residual solvents or by-products, which may be present in commercially available sources.
[0043] Film-forming in aqueous phase
[0044] According to the present invention, compositions comprising one or more aqueous film-forming polymers (“first film-forming polymers” or “first film-formers”) that are water-soluble or water-dispersible nonionic polymers are proposed. For clarity, “water-soluble or water-dispersible nonionic” means that the polymer is nonionic. The polymer is also water-soluble or water-dispersible, in particular insofar as it can be readily stabilized in a vehicle (e.g., water) present in the composition.
[0045] One or more of these first film-forming polymers are part of an aqueous-phase film-forming system. The aqueous-phase film-forming system may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of an aqueous-phase film-forming agent.
[0046] Examples of aqueous-phase film-forming polymers include, but are not limited to, homopolymers and copolymers containing at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer and / or at least one vinylpyrrolidone monomer, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / acrylic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate copolymers, alkyl (e.g., butyl) and hydroxyalkyl (e.g., propyl) dimethicone acrylate copolymers, styrene / acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymers, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, etc.; water-soluble polysaccharides such as pectin, unmodified pullulan, or cellulose compounds; polyurethanes; latex; and their mixtures.
[0047] According to preferred embodiments, the at least one aqueous-phase film-forming polymer is at least one polymer containing a cyclic amide. Preferably, the at least one cyclic amide-containing polymer also has at least one cyclic amine and / or acrylamide functionality, preferably both, although it is possible that the at least one polymer may contain neither a cyclic amine nor an acrylamide functionality.
[0048] Useful cyclic amide and cyclic amine monomers in preferred first film-forming polymers include those having one or more aromatic or aliphatic ring structures. These rings can have sizes ranging from approximately, for example, 5 to 8 ring members.
[0049] In some embodiments, the monomers used to form these first film-forming polymers are polymerizable, ethylenically unsaturated monomers having a cyclic amine residue or a cyclic amide residue. Consequently, the cyclic amide monomers of these first film-forming polymers may include cyclic amide residues that are, or include, heterocyclic ring structures. such as lactams and the like. These may include α-lactam, γ-lactam, γ-lactam, β-lactam, and ε-lactam. In a preferred embodiment, the cyclic amide is a pyrrolidone (a γ-lactam), in particular vinylpyrrolidone.
[0050] The useful cyclic amine residues may include any of various heterocyclic amines such as azoles, pyrroles, pyrrolidines, carbamates, and the like. In a preferred embodiment, the cyclic amine residue is an imidazole.
[0051] In some embodiments, the acrylamide monomers useful in these first film-forming polymers include those having -C3H5NO functional groups. Examples include (meth)acrylamides.
[0052] As noted above, at least one cyclic amide-containing polymer preferably has at least one cyclic amine and also acrylamide functionality, preferably both, although it is possible that the polymer may contain no functionality. For example, polymer(s) containing one or more cyclic amide residues but no cyclic amine or acrylamide functionality include, but are not limited to, vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers (polyvinylpyrrolidone) and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers containing at least one monomer other than vinylpyrrolidone such as, for example, substituted or unsubstituted C2 (acrylic acid) or C3 (allyl) groups, possibly in the form of esters (acrylates or methacrylates) or ethers.
[0053] In some embodiments, the at least one aqueous-phase film-forming polymer has a weight-average molecular weight in a range of about 10,000 daltons to about 1,000,000 daltons, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, 50,000 daltons to 500,000 daltons, 75,000 daltons to 300,000 daltons and 100,000 daltons to 250,000 daltons.
[0054] In some embodiments, at least one cyclic amide-containing polymer is a copolymer of N-vinyl pyrrolidone, methacrylamide and N-vinylimidazole.
[0055] In some embodiments, at least one cyclic amide-containing polymer may be a commercially available variety, such as LUVISET CLEAR AT3, commercially available from BASF of Ludwigshafen, Germany.
[0056] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are devoid of, free from, or substantially free from polyurethanes.
[0057] Preferably, at least one aqueous-phase film-forming polymer is present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 25% by weight, preferably from about 0.75% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 10%, and preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, 4% to 15%, 1% to 3%, 3% to 25%, etc. Preferably, at least one aqueous-phase film-forming polymer is present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount greater than 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0058] Hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound
[0059] According to the present invention, compositions comprising one or more hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compounds (“second film-forming polymers” or “second film-forming agents”) are proposed. One or more of these second film-forming polymers form part of a film-forming system of composition, as does at least one film-forming agent in the aqueous phase. Optionally, other film-forming agents may be included in the film-forming system of composition, if desired. Preferably, the at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide is at least one hydrophobically modified pullulan compound.
[0060] Pullulan is a natural polysaccharide produced from starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulons. Pullulan is an alpha-glucan primarily composed of repeating maltotriose units linearly linked by alpha 1,6-glycoid bonds. Natural pullulan is readily soluble in cold or hot water, forming clear, viscous solutions.
[0061] Pullulan can be produced, for example, from the fermentation of partially hydrolyzed starch or by using sucrose, sugar cane, milk, potato and other sources for carbohydrate raw materials.
[0062] Suitable pullulan compounds include those described in US patent application 2018 / 0133144.
[0063] Preferably, the pullulan compounds of the present invention are oil-soluble. For example, the preferred pullulan compounds of the present invention have been modified with a hydrophobic group such as a silicone group or a hydrocarbon group that confers oil solubility to the compound. Such modifications may include, for example, a silicone group such as a siloxysilyl group (-[-SiRR'-SiOR"R"'-]-), where R, R', R" and R'" are alkyl groups containing preferably 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms), or may include hydrocarbon groups of C8 or higher (for example, hydrocarbon groups containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as 12 to 22 carbon atoms and 12 to 18 carbon atoms).
[0064] Preferably, the pullulan can be modified by a silicone group which confers oil solubility to the compound ("silicone-modified pullulan compound"). A preferred silicone-modified pullulan compound has a structure corresponding to: • a pullulan-linker-silicone group; • where the silicone group is preferably a C1-C6 alkyl-substituted siloxysilyl group, such as, for example, a monoalkyl-substituted siloxysilyl group, a diacyl-substituted siloxysilyl group, or a trialkyl-substituted siloxysilyl group, where the C1-C6 alkyl group is linear, cyclic, or branched, substituted or unsubstituted; and • when the linker does not negatively affect the film-forming or oil-solubility properties of the compound. Preferably, the linker is an alkyl (-C-), an ester or ether (-O-), an amide or amine (-N-), or a combination thereof, such as a carbamoyl group. Preferably, the linker is a carbamoyl group.
[0065] Preferably, the pullulan compound is a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, a particularly preferred compound being trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan.
[0066] Preferably, the pullulan compound(s) in the compositions of the present invention have a molecular weight of 50,000 to 10,000,000 daltons, preferably 100,000 to 5,000,000 daltons, preferably 250,000 to 1,000,000 daltons, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges including, for example, 200,000 to 7,600,000 daltons, 350,000 to 8,750,000 daltons, 225,000 to 700,000 daltons, etc.
[0067] Preferably, at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound is present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 25% by weight, preferably from about 0.75% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 10%, and preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, 4% to 14%, 1% to 5%, 1.5% to 8%, etc. Preferably, at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound is present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount greater than 1.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0068] According to preferred embodiments, the total combined amount of aqueous-phase film-forming agent and hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound present in the compositions of the present invention is from about 0.5% to about 25% by weight, preferably from about 0.75% to about 20% by weight, and preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, 1% to 10%, 2% to 8%, 2.5% to 6%; 2.75% to 8%, 1.5% to 4%, 1.25% to 5%, etc.
[0069] According to preferred embodiments, at least one aqueous-phase film-forming agent and at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound are present in the compositions of the present invention in a weight ratio of approximately 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably about 3:1 to about 1:3, and preferably about 2.5:1 to about 1:2.5, including all intermediate ranges and subranges of these ranges, and in particular the ranges and subranges obtained using the terminal points of the compositions in the examples below such as, for example, 3.75 / 1.5 (example 3-G) to 3 / 1.25 (example 3-1), etc.
[0070] Aqueous phase
[0071] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions comprising an aqueous solvent system including (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (ii) optionally, at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol are proposed. Preferably, the composition is in the form of an emulsion with a continuous external phase that is aqueous, preferably an oil-in-water (o / w) emulsion.
[0072] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise water. Preferably, the compositions comprise at least about 10% water by weight, preferably more than 20% water by weight, preferably more than 25% water by weight, and preferably more than 30% water by weight, preferably in amounts from about 10% to about 80%, preferably from more than 20% to about 75%, preferably from about 25% to about 60%, and preferably from about 30% to about 50%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, such as, for example, from about 30% to about 60%.
[0073] Suitable C2-C5 monoalcohols, where appropriate, include ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, and isopentanol. Ethanol is particularly preferred.
[0074] Preferably, the C2-C5 monoalcohol(s), if any, are present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 50%, preferably from about 2.5% to about 40%, preferably from about 2.5% to about 30%, and preferably from about 2.5% to about 25%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, from about 1% to about 25%.
[0075] Preferably, the aqueous solvent system of the compositions of the present invention consists essentially of, or consists of, water and, optionally, C2-C5 monoalcohols. Preferably, the aqueous solvent system is "free of", "devoid of", or "substantially free of" solvents other than water and, optionally, C2-C5 monoalcohols.
[0076] Oily phase
[0077] According to the present invention, compositions comprising at least one oil are proposed. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise oil is used to form an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably from about 1% to about 80% oil, more preferably from about 2% to about 60% oil, preferably from about 5% to about 50% oil, preferably from about 10% to about 45% oil, and preferably from about 20% to about 40% oil by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, 5% to 15%, 10% to 25%, etc. However, compositions that are "free of," "substantially free of," or "devoid of" oils (as defined above) may also be prepared.
[0078] Suitable oils include volatile and / or non-volatile oils. These oils may be any acceptable oil, including, but not limited to, silicone oils and / or hydrocarbon oils.
[0079] According to certain embodiments, the oil carrier comprises one or more volatile silicone oils. Examples of these volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature less than or equal to 6 cSt and having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones being optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Specific oils that can be used in the invention include octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile oils that can be used include KF 96A with a viscosity of 6 cSt, a commercial product from Shin Etsu having a flash point of 94 °C. Preferably, volatile silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40°C.
[0080] Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils are listed in Table 1 below.
[0081] [Tables 1] Compound Flash Point (°C) Viscosity (cSt) Octyltrimethicone 93 1.2 Hexyltrimethicone 79 1.2 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 72 4.2 (cyclopentasiloxane or D5) 55 2.5 Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane 93 7 (cyclotetramethylsiloxane or D4) 63 1.7 Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) 94 6 Decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4) 56 1.5 KF-96 A from Shin Etsu PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) DC 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning PDMS DC 200 (2 cSt) from Dow Corning 87 2
[0082] Furthermore, a volatile linear silicone oil may be used in the present invention. Suitable volatile linear silicone oils include those described in US patent no. 6,338,839 and WO03 / 042221. In one embodiment, the volatile linear silicone oil is decamethyltetrasiloxane. In another embodiment, decamethyltetrasiloxane is further combined with another solvent that is more volatile than decamethyltetrasiloxane.
[0083] According to certain embodiments, the oil carrier comprises one or more volatile non-silicone oils and may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile esters, and volatile ethers. Examples of these volatile non-silicone oils include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular, C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, and, for example, oils marketed under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl. Preferably, the volatile non-silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40 °C.
[0084] Non-limiting examples of volatile non-silicone oils are given in Table 2 below.
[0085] [Tables2] Compound Flash Point (°C) Isododecane 43 n-Propylene glycol n-Butyl ether 60 Ethyl 3-Ethoxypropionate 58 Propylene glycol methyl ether acetate 46 Isopar L (Cn-Cu isoparaffin) 62 Isopar H (Cn-Ci2 isoparaffin) 56 Undecane 62 Tridecane 94 Isohexadecane 96
[0086] The volatility of solvents / oils can be determined using the evaporation rate shown in US Patent No. 6,338,839.
[0087] According to other embodiments of the present invention, the oil vector comprises at least one non-volatile oil. Examples of non-volatile oils that can be used in the present invention include, in particular, polar oils such as: • vegetable oils based on hydrocarbons with a high triglyceride content consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, whose fatty acids may have varying chain lengths, these chains being possibly linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; These oils include wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, shea butter, castor oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, cucurbit oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or rosehip oil;or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; • synthetic oils or esters of formula R5COOR6 in which R5 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R6 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, such as, by example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C15-C12 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate or dusostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; • synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms; • Fatty alcohols in the C8 to C26 range, for example oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol; and • their mixtures.
[0088] In addition, examples of non-volatile oils that can be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, non-polar oils such as branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes including polyolefins, in particular petrolatum, paraffin oil, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene and mixtures thereof.
[0089] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are devoid of, free from, or substantially free from silicone oils.
[0090] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are devoid of, free from, or substantially free from non-volatile oils.
[0091] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are devoid of, free from, or substantially free from waxes.
[0092] High HLB surfactant
[0093] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions further comprising at least one surfactant with a high HLB are proposed. "HLB" refers to the "hydrophilic-lipophilic balance" associated with emulsifiers / surfactants. In particular, the "HLB" value relates to the ratio of hydrophilic to lipophilic groups in the emulsifiers and also relates to the solubility of the emulsifiers. Emulsifiers with a lower HLB are more soluble in oils (lipophilic material) and are more suitable for use in water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. Emulsifiers with a higher HLB are more soluble in water (hydrophilic material) and are more suitable for oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions. In the context of the present invention, a "high HLB surfactant" means a surfactant having an HLB value greater than 8.Also, in the context of the present invention, a "high HLB value" means a surfactant having an HLB value greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 9, preferably greater than or equal to 10, preferably greater than or equal to 12, and preferably greater than or equal to 13.
[0094] Examples of surfactants include, but are not limited to, the following: • Glycolized polyethylene (PEG) esters or ethers and / or glycerols, such as C8-C24 branched or linear glycolated polyethylene and / or glycerol compounds, for example, Oleth-50, Oleth-20, Oleth-10, Ceteth-10, Steareth-20, Laureth-23, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 isostearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, etc.; • sorbitan esters or ethers, such as mono- or polyalkyl oxyethylenated or non-oxyethylenated sorbitan esters or ethers, such as polysorbate 21, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 61, sorbitan isostearate, glyceryl sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan trioleate and sorbitan triostearate, etc.; • Monoalkyl or polyalkyl sugar esters or ethers, such as monoalkyl or polyalkyl sugar esters or ethers as described in US patent 6,689,371. Examples include methyl glucose isostearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose stearate, etc.; • Alkoxylated alkenyl succinates; and • Silicone derivatives, such as dimethicone copolyols, for example the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as lauryl methicone copolyol, sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning, and cetyl dimethicone polyol, sold under the name "Abil EM 90" by Goldschmidt, or the mixture of poly-glyceryl-4 isostearate / cetyl dimethicone copolyol / hexyl laurate sold under the name "Abil WE 90" by Goldschmidt.
[0095] At least one high HLB surfactant is preferably present in the compositions of the present invention in a content of about 0.1% to about 5%, preferably about 0.1% to about 4%, and preferably about 0.1% to about 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. Gelling agent / Colorant / Active agent
[0096] Gelling agent
[0097] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions further comprising at least one gelling agent are proposed. Suitable gelling agents include any gelling agent, such as, for example, gums, clays, and acrylic acid (co)polymers, such as high molecular weight homo- or copolymers comprising acrylic acid, optionally crosslinked with a polyalkenyl polyether, including certain polymers identified as "Carbomer" as well as amphiphilic polymers. Preferably, the gelling agent is a gum, an amphiphilic polymer or a clay, or a combination of any of these.
[0098] According to preferred embodiments, at least one gelling agent is preferably at least one gum. Suitable examples of thickening gums include, but are not limited to, xanthan gum, sclerotium, pectin, karaya, arabic, gelatin, agar, guar gum, carrageenan, alginate, and combinations thereof.
[0099] According to preferred embodiments, at least one gelling agent is preferably at least one amphiphilic polymer, comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer, preferably containing a sulfonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized.
[0100] Amphiphilic polymers may include at least one hydrophobic portion. The hydrophobic portion present in these "polymers" preferably contains from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0101] Amphiphilic polymers can have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol, and preferably from 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.
[0102] Amphiphilic polymers may be based on at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomer A and at least one hydrophobic monomer B. Preferably, monomer A comprises a strong acid function, in particular a sulfonic acid or phosphonic acid function. The hydrophobic monomer B comprises at least one hydrophobic radical, selected from: saturated or unsaturated linear C6-Ci8 alkyl radicals (e.g., n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl, or oleyl); branched alkyl radicals (e.g., isostearic) or cyclic alkyl radicals (e.g., cyclododecane or adamantane); C6-Ci8 fluoro or alkylfluoro radicals (e.g., the group with the formula —(CH2)2—(CF2)9—CF3); a cholesterol-derived radical or radicals (e.g., cholesteryl hexanoate); aromatic polycyclic groups, e.g., naphthalene or pyrene; and silicone or alkyl-silicone or alkylfluorosilicone radicals.Among these radicals, linear and branched alkyl radicals are preferred.
[0103] Amphiphilic polymers can be soluble in water or dispersible in water in neutralized form.
[0104] Amphiphilic polymers can be crosslinked. Crosslinking agents can be chosen, for example, from among the unsaturated polyolefin compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by free radical polymerization. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent The crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking is preferably from 0.01% mol to 10% mol, and preferably from 0.2% mol to 2% mol, with respect to the polymer, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0105] Amphiphilic polymers can be homopolymers or copolymers.
[0106] Amphiphilic polymers can be partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (e.g., sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or liquid ammonia) or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanamine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine or basic amino acids, e.g. arginine and lysine, and mixtures thereof.
[0107] Amphiphilic polymers may be water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers such as, for example, optionally crosslinked polymers of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate such as that used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate (INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLDIMEHYLTAURAMIDE) such as the product marketed under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS@ by Clariant.
[0108] The amphiphilic polymers may be selected from crosslinked or noncrosslinked amphiphilic polymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic portion containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0109] Suitable examples of amphiphilic polymers include, but are not limited to, hydrophobically modified sulfonic acid copolymers such as ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer (Clarant's Aristoflex AVC), ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer (Clarant's Aristoflex HMB) (ethoxylated crosslinked AMPS / behenyl methacrylate), ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer (Aristoflex HMS) (ethoxylated AMPS / stearyl methacrylate copolymer crosslinked with trimethylol triacrylate), Aristoflex SNC (ethoxylated crosslinked AMPS / C16-C18), Aristoflex LNC (non-crosslinked AMPS / C12-C14), acrylamide / acry-loyldimethyl sodium taurate / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80 copolymer) (Simulgel 600) and their mixtures.
[0110] According to preferred embodiments, the gelling agent(s) may be at least one clay. Examples of clays include clays of the smectite family, such as laponite, and clays of the kaolinite family, such as kaolinite, dickite, or nacrite, optionally modified clays of the halloysite, dombassite, antigorite, berthierine, pyrophyllite, montmorillonite, beidellite, vermiculite, talc, stevensite, hectorite, saponite, chlorite, sepiolite and illite families.
[0111] Clays are products already well known in themselves, which are described, for example, in the publication "Mineralogy of clays", S. Caillère, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd edition 1982, Masson, the teaching of which is included here as a reference.
[0112] Natural clay is a sedimentary rock composed largely of specific minerals, generally aluminum silicates. Kaolin is therefore a natural clay.
[0113] Clays can also be synthetic. Thus, Sumecton mentioned below is a synthetic saponite.
[0114] Preferably, in the context of the present invention, clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratinous materials are used. Clays that may be mentioned include kaolinite, montmorillonite, saponite, laponite, hectorite, and illite. Mixtures of clays and natural clays may also be used.
[0115] Natural clays that may be mentioned include green clays, particularly those rich in illite; clays rich in montmorillonite, known as Fuller's earth; or clays such as bentonite; or white clays rich in kaolinite. Bentonites, in particular, may be mentioned under the names Bentone 38 VCG®, Bentone Gel CAO V®, Bentone 27 V®, and Bentone Gel MIO V® by the company Elementis.
[0116] As an example of a montmorillonite-rich clay, hydrated aluminium silicate sold under the name Gel White H® by the Rockwood company can be cited.
[0117] As an example of saponite, which belongs to the montmorillonite family, synthetic saponite can be cited, in particular the product sold by the Kunimine company under the name Sumecton®.
[0118] As examples of talc, one can cite those sold under the names Rose Talc® and Talc SG-2000® sold by the company Nippon Talc, Luzenac Pharma M® sold by the company Luzenac, J-68BC® of US Corporation and Micro ACE-P-3® sold by the company Nippon Talc.
[0119] Preferably, where appropriate, the gelling agent or agents are present in the compositions of the present invention in amounts ranging from about 0.1 to about 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% and preferably from 2.5 to 15% by weight, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, 0.1 to 1.5%, 2 to 20%, 10 to 20%, etc.
[0120] Dye (Coloring agent)
[0121] According to embodiments of the present invention, compositions optionally comprising at least one coloring agent are proposed. According to preferred embodiments, the at least one coloring agent, if any, is at least one surface-treated pigment. “Surface-treated pigment” means pigments that have undergone, wholly or partially, a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical, or mechanical nature with a surface treatment agent. Preferably, the pigments are selected from inorganic pigments or mixed inorganic / organic pigments.
[0122] Surface treatment agents may be selected from the group consisting of alkyl silanes, organotitanates, halogenated phosphonates and halogenated organosilanes. According to preferred embodiments, the pigments have been surface-treated with a surface treatment agent selected from the group consisting of alkoxylated alkyl silanes such as, for example, C2-C8 ethoxylated and / or propoxylated alkyl silanes and their salts, organotitanates such as, for example, titanium salts of fatty acids such as, for example, C2-C8 alkylated titanium salts of C9-C24 fatty acids such as stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, cetearic acid, cetyl acid, etc., halogenated organophosphonates such as, for example, per-fluoroalkyl phosphonates and their salts, and halogenated organosilanes such as, for example, C2-C8 perfluoroalkyl silanes (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated), and their salts.Specific examples of suitable surface treatment agents include (1) triethoxy caprylylsilane, (2) perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane, (3) sodium perfluorohexylethylphosphonate and (4) isopropyl titanium triisosteate.
[0123] Preferred surface treatment agents are selected from the group consisting of alkyl silanes and halogenated organosilanes. In preferred embodiments, the pigments have been surface-treated with a surface treatment agent selected from the group consisting of alkoxylated alkyl silanes such as, for example, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated C2-C8 alkyl silanes and their salts, and halogenated organosilanes such as, for example, perfluoro (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) C2-C8 alkyl silanes and their salts. Specific examples of suitable surface treatment agents include (1) triethoxy caprylylsilane and (2) perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane.
[0124] The surface-treated pigments of the present invention can be prepared using surface treatment techniques well known to a person of ordinary skill in the art or can be found commercially.
[0125] For example, the surface treatment agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surface treatment agent, or creation of a covalent bond between the surface treatment agent and the pigments. The surface treatment can This can be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surface treatment agent with the surface of the pigments, creating a covalent bond between the surface treatment agent and the pigments. An example of such a process is described, for instance, in US Patent No. 4,578,266.
[0126] The at least pigment treated on the surface, if any, is preferably present in the compositions of the present invention at an active dry matter content of about 1% to about 30%, preferably about 3% to about 25%, and preferably about 5% to about 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0127] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions further comprising at least one untreated coloring agent are proposed. Such coloring agents may, where appropriate, be added to or replace the surface-treated pigment mentioned above.
[0128] According to this embodiment, the coloring agent is preferably chosen from pigments, dyes, such as liposoluble dyes, pearlescent pigments and pearlescent agents.
[0129] Representative fat-soluble dyes that can be used according to the present invention include Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, annatto, and quinoline yellow. The fat-soluble dyes, where applicable, generally have a concentration of up to 40% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.0001% to 30%, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0130] The pearlescent pigments that can be used according to the present invention can be selected from colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment selected from those mentioned above, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The pearlescent pigments, if any, are present in the composition at a concentration of up to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.0001% to 40%, preferably from 0.001% to 30%, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0131] The untreated pigments that can be used according to the present invention can be selected from white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, and non-polymer pigments. Representative examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue. Representative examples of organic pigments include carbon black, D&C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, and aluminum.
[0132] Where appropriate, the colouring agents may be present in the composition at a concentration of up to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.0001% to 40%, and furthermore such as from 0.001% to 30%, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0133] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are devoid of, free from, or substantially free from coloring agents.
[0134] Active agent
[0135] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions further comprising at least one active agent are proposed. Preferably, the active agent is in the aqueous phase (hydrophilic active agent), although active agents may be present in the oily phase (hydrophobic active agent).
[0136] In some embodiments, the active agent may be: • a moisturizing agent, such as a polyol such as, for example, glycerin and sugars, urea and its derivatives, such as in particular a hydroxyalkyl urea, in particular a hydroxyalkyl urea, and mixtures thereof; • a desquamating agent, which may be a compound capable of either acting directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as [3-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid); α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; an extract of Saphora japonica; resveratrol and certain derivatives of jasmonic acid; or of acting on the enzymes involved in desquamation or the degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, the chymotryptic enzyme of the stratum corneum (SCCE), or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin type). Examples of mineral salt chelating agents include: EDTA; N-acyl-N.N' acid.N'-ethylencdiaminctriacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane)sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); α-amino acid derivatives of the glycine type (as described in EP-0 852 949 and sodium methylglycinediacetate sold by BASF under the trade name Trilon M); honey; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetylglucosamine; . • a humectant; • an anti-aging agent, which may include, for example, one or more of the following: C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (Pro-Xylane), retinol, peptides, caffeine and other components that improve skin texture, any other suitable soluble / dispersible targeted active ingredient, and combinations thereof, a mattifying agent, which may include, but is not limited to, mattifying fillers such as, for example, talc, silica, silicone elastomers and polyamides, and waxes such as, for example, beeswax and Co-pemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax. an antimicrobial agent, including but not limited to 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, micronazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopirox olamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, acid lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octopirox, octoxyglycerin, octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenylimidazole dioxolane and its derivatives described in patent WO 93 / 18743, famesol and phytosphingosines,and their mixtures; A pigment-modifying agent and / or skin-lightening agents, such as double-stranded RNA oligonucleotides, are useful for decreasing tyrosinase expression. Other examples include ceramides, vitamin C and its derivatives, particularly vitamins CG, CP and 3-ethyl vitamin C, alpha- and beta-arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, calcium sulfonate, D-pantheine, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, phenylethyl resorcinol (e.g., Symwhite 377® from Symrise), kiwi juice (Actinidia chinensis) sold by Gattefosse, Paeonia suffructicosa root extract (e.g., Botanpi Liquid B® sold by Ichimaru Pharcos), brown sugar extract (Saccharum officinarum) (e.g., Molasses Liquid sold by Taiyo Kagaku), and a mixture of undecylenic acid and undecylenoyl phenylalanine (e.g., Sepiwhite MSH®). of Seppic; a vitamin such as a vitamin A compound like retinol or retinoic acid, a vitamin B compound such as vitamin B1, B3 or B6, a vitamin C compound such as an ascorbyl phosphate salt (for example, magnesium or sodium, and / or their derivatives; • an ultraviolet (UV) filter such as, for example, an aminobenzoic acid derivative, a dibenzoylmethane derivative, a salicylic acid derivative, a cinnamic derivative, a [3,[3] diphenyl acrylate derivative, a benzophenone derivative, a benzylidene camphor derivative, and mixtures thereof. Examples include ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name UVINUL MC 80® by BASF, ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN OS® by SYMRISE, and octocrylene sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN 303® by SYMRISE; and / or • one of their combinations.
[0137] Additional additives
[0138] The composition of the invention may also include any additive commonly used in the field concerned. For example, additional film-forming agents (in addition to the hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound and the aqueous-phase film-forming agent), waxes, dispersants such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), preservatives, perfumes, fillers, antioxidants, neutralizing agents, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof may be added. A non-exhaustive list of these ingredients can be found in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2004 / 0170586. Other examples of suitable additional components can be found in the other U.S. references cited prior to this application. Still other examples of these additional ingredients can be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9th ed. 2002).However, it should be understood that preferred embodiments of the present invention include compositions that are "free", "substantially free" or "devoid" of the ingredients mentioned in this paragraph such as additional film-forming agents and waxes.
[0139] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention contain a total dry matter content (excluding film-forming agents) of 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, or preferably 3% by weight or less relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are devoid of, free from, or substantially free from dry matter (excluding film-forming agents).
[0140] A person skilled in the art shall ensure that the optional additional additives and / or their quantity are selected so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, compromised by the envisaged addition.
[0141] These substances can be selected in various ways by the person of profession in order to prepare a composition that has the desired properties, for example, consistency or texture.
[0142] It goes without saying that the composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, that is to say, it must contain a physiologically acceptable non-toxic carrier and must be able to be applied to the keratinous material of human beings.
[0143] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, methods for caring for and / or making up keratinous material are proposed by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in a sufficient quantity to care for and / or make up the keratinous material. Similarly, preferred embodiments of the present invention include methods for priming keratinous material for a cosmetic composition and / or for fixing a cosmetic composition that has been previously applied to keratinous material by applying compositions of the present invention over the keratinous material before applying a cosmetic composition (primer) and / or by applying compositions of the present invention over a cosmetic composition previously applied to the keratinous material (fixation).Preferably, the cosmetic composition used in conjunction with the compositions of the present invention is a coloured cosmetic composition.
[0144] Preferably, the "makeup" of the keratinous material includes the application of at least one coloring agent to the keratinous material (either in the composition itself or in a color layer composition applied either over or under the composition as described above) in sufficient quantity to give color to the keratinous material.
[0145] According to particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention, methods for applying makeup to keratinous material such as skin are proposed, comprising (1) applying a colored cosmetic composition such as a foundation to the keratinous material (e.g., skin), (2) allowing the colored cosmetic composition to dry on the keratinous material (e.g., skin), preferably allowing it to dry for about 1 minute to about 15 minutes, preferably for about 5 minutes to 10 minutes, and (3) applying a composition of the present invention over the dried colored cosmetic composition that has been applied to the keratinous material (e.g., skin).Preferably, compositions of the present invention are applied over the dried color cosmetic composition in a sufficient quantity to improve the transfer resistance of the color cosmetic composition compared to the transfer resistance provided by the color cosmetic composition when applied alone to a keratinous material.
[0146] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, kits comprising, as separate compositions in one or more containers within the kits, (A) at least one composition of the present invention, in particular a cosmetic fixative or primer composition, comprising at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound and at least one aqueous-phase film-forming agent; and (B) at least one other composition such as a cosmetic composition comprising at least one colorant are proposed.
[0147] Compositions (A) and (B) may be contained in different portions or sections of the same container within the kit. However, compositions (A) and (B) may also be contained in different containers within the kit.
[0148] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, assemblies, as applied to a keratinous material, comprising (A) at least one first layer of at least one composition comprising at least one colorant; and (B) at least one second layer of at least one composition of the present invention, in particular a fixative or cosmetic primer composition, comprising at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound and at least one aqueous-phase film-forming agent, are proposed. Preferably, the at least one second layer is applied over the at least one first layer (in which case the second layer is a fixative layer formed by applying a fixative composition over the first layer).However, if at least one first layer is applied over at least one second layer, the at least one second layer is a primer layer formed by applying a primer composition to a keratinous material.
[0149] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, compositions having improved cosmetic properties such as, for example, increased water resistance, sebum resistance, and / or transfer resistance are provided. Preferably, the composition is a skin composition. Preferably, the composition is a fixative or primer composition. Also preferably, the composition further comprises at least one gelling agent and / or at least one active agent.
[0150] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, methods for manufacturing oil-in-water (o / w) emulsions (compositions) of the present invention comprising the combination of at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound and at least one aqueous-phase film-forming agent in the quantities and / or ratios mentioned above during the formation of the emulsion composition are proposed. Preferably, the composition is a composition for application to the skin. Preferably, the composition is a fixative or primer composition, and / or is in the form of a gel. Also preferably, the composition comprises in addition at least one gelling agent and / or at least one active agent.
[0151] Unless otherwise stated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified in all cases by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise stated, the numerical parameters presented in the following descriptive document and the attached claims are approximations that may vary depending on the desired properties that one seeks to obtain by means of the present invention.
[0152] Although the numerical ranges and parameters presenting the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values presented in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, every numerical value inherently contains some errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without thereby limiting its scope. Percentages are given on a weight basis. EXAMPLES
[0153] Example 1 - Samples of inventive compositions
[0154] [Tables3] Total % 100.00 - General Total 100% - Preferred Chemical Name / Function % by weight / weight % by weight / weight Surfactants 0.1 to 10% 0.1 to 3% Aqueous Film Forming Agent 0.5 to 20% 1 to 10% Modified Pullulan Compound 0.5 to 20% 1 to 10% Oils 1 to 30% 2 to 20% Colorant / Fragrance / Active Optional Optional Water QS QS Mono-Alcohol 0 to 30% 2.5 to 25% Gelling Agent 0.1 to 10% 0.1 to 3% Example 2 - Test Protocols
[0155] The resistance to transfer can be determined as follows.
[0156] A colored cosmetic composition (for example, a foundation such as L'Oréal Paris Makeup True Match Liquid Foundation) is applied to a keratinous material (for example, the skin) in a controlled quantity (for example, 0.020 grams) in a controlled area (for example, a 3 cm x 3 cm square). Wait 5 to 15 minutes until the solution has dried.
[0157] Apply a test composition (fixative) in a controlled amount (for example, the same amount as the applied cosmetic color composition, such as 0.020 grams) over the applied cosmetic color composition and allow it to dry. If a test composition (fixative) is not applied over the cosmetic color, the transfer resistance of the cosmetic color alone (without fixative composition) can be compared to the transfer resistance when a fixative composition is used in conjunction with the cosmetic color composition.
[0158] A white cotton swab / ball is then used to rub the area a specified number of times (e.g., 5 times or more) to assess the resistance to transfer of the color cosmetic composition onto the swab / ball after such rubbing. The resistance to transfer can be evaluated by determining the difference in the amount of color cosmetic composition transferred onto the swab / cotton ball with and without the fixing composition applied.Transfer resistance is assessed on a scale of 1 to 5, with 1 = minimal improvement in the transfer resistance of the color cosmetic composition onto the pad / cotton ball; 3 = moderate improvement in the transfer resistance of the color cosmetic composition onto the pad / cotton ball; and 5 = significant improvement in the transfer resistance of the color cosmetic composition onto the pad / cotton ball, with little or no transfer of the color cosmetic composition onto the pad / cotton ball. Example 3 - Transfer resistance test
[0159] The following compositions A to J were prepared and tested as fixing compositions for L'Oréal Paris Makeup True Match liquid foundation in accordance with the protocol of Example 2.
[0160] Examples 3A to 3D were comparative examples, containing little or no hydrophobically modified pullulan compound and / or little aqueous film-forming compound.
[0161] Examples 3E to 3J were representative of inventive compositions containing the indicated quantities and / or ratios of hydrophobically modified pullulan compound and aqueous film-forming agent.
[0162] The transfer resistance of the commercial foundation + prepared fixative compositions was determined in accordance with the protocol of Example 2: Example 3-A Example 3-B Example 3-C Example 3-DT Rimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulane 0.15 0.30 0.60 0.00 Isododecane 4.85 4.70 4.40 5.00 Isohexadecane 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 Sorbitan oleate 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 Polysorbate 80 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 Vinyl pyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer 0.10 0.20 0.40 2.50 Ethanol 0 to 25 0 to 25 0 to 25 0 to 25 Water QS QS QS QS Film-forming in oil phase 0.15 0.30 0.60 0.00 Film-forming in aqueous phase 0.10 0.20 0.40 2.50 Total film-forming 0.25 0.50 1.00 2.50 Transfer test - Transfer resistance 1 1 2 2 Example 3-E Example 3-F Example 3-G Example 3-H Example 3-1 Example 3-JT rimethylsiloxysilyl-carbamoyl pullulan 1.50 1.50 1.50 3.00 3.00 3.00 Isododecane 3.50 3.50 3.50 7.00 7.00 7.00 Isohexadecane 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 Sorbitan oleate 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 Polysorbate 80 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Copolymer Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyl-dimethyl taurate 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 Vinyl pyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinyl-1 imidazole copolymer 1.25 2.50 3.75 0.00 1.25 2.50 Ethanol 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Water QS QS QS QS QS QS Film-forming agent in oil phase 1.50 1.50 1.50 3.00 3.00 3.00 Film-forming agent in aqueous phase 1.25 2.50 3.75 0.00 1.25 2.50 Total film-forming agent 2.75 4.00 5.25 3.00 4.25 5.50 Transfer test - Transfer resistance 3 5 5 5 5 5
[0165] As can be seen, the fixative compositions corresponding to the present invention resulted in superior transfer resistance when used in conjunction with the commercial foundation product compared to the com- comparative fixative positions containing little or no hydrophobically modified pullulan compound and / or aqueous film-forming agent. Example 4
[0166] As in Example 3, the following inventive fixative compositions A to I were prepared and used as fixative compositions for L'Oréal Paris True Match Makeup liquid foundation in accordance with the protocol of Example 2 to determine transfer resistance: Example 4-A Example 4-B Example 4-C Example 4-D Example 4-E Trimethylsiloxysilyl-carbamoy 1 pullulan 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 Isododecane 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 Isohexadecane 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 Sorbitan oleate 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 Polysorbate 80 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 Polyvinyl pyrrolidone 1.50 0 0 0 0 Polyvinyl alcohol 0 1.50 0 0 0 Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer 0 0 1.50 0 0 Vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer 0 0 0 1.50 0 Vinyl pyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer 0 0 0 0 1.50 Ethanol 0 to 25 0 to 25 0 to 25 0 to 25 0 to 25 Water QS QS QS to QS QS Transfer test - Transfer resistance 3 3 3 3 3 Example 4-F Example 4-G Example 4-H Example 4-1 Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulane 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 Isododecane 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 Isohexadecane 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 Sorbitan oleate 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 Polysorbate 80 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 Butyl acrylate / hydroxypropyl dimethicone acrylate copolymer 1.50 0 0 0 Styrene / acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer 0 1.50 0 0 Pectin 0 0 1.50 0 Pullulan 0 0 0 1.05 Ethanol 0 to 25 0 to 25 0 to 25 0 to 25 Water QS QS QS QS Transfer Test - Transfer Resistance 3 3 3 3
[0169] As in Example 3, the inventive fixative compositions A to I demonstrated superior transfer resistance when used in conjunction with the commercial foundation product compared to the comparative fixative compositions containing no or too little hydrophobically modified pullulan compound and / or aqueous film-forming compound.
Claims
Demands
1. Oil-in-water emulsion composition, preferably in the form of a gel, comprising (a) water, (b) at least one oil, (c) at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound; and (d) at least one aqueous-phase film-forming agent.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of at least one gelling agent, at least one colorant, at least one active agent and mixtures thereof.
3. Composition according to claim 2, wherein at least two of the gelling agents, colorants and active agents are present in the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound is a silicone-modified pullulan compound, preferably trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one aqueous-phase film-forming agent is selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone, a vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, a vinylpyrrolidone / acrylic acid copolymer, a vinyl polyalcohol, an N-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, methacrylamide and N-vinylimidazole, polyurethanes, latex, pectin, water-soluble cellulosic compounds and mixtures thereof, and is preferably a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide, and N-vinylimidazole.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the aqueous phase film-forming compound and the hydrophobically modified polysaccharide compound is from about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably from about 3:1 to about 1:
3.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is free of colorant.
8. A skin makeup method comprising applying the composition of any of the preceding claims to a color cosmetic composition that has been previously applied to the skin.
9. A method for applying makeup to the skin comprising applying the composition of any one of the preceding claims to the skin, and the application of a colored cosmetic composition over the composition that has been previously applied to the skin.