Anhydrous skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials

Abstract

ANHYDROUS CARE AND / OR MAKEUP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to an anhydrous care and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials comprising: (i) 7% by weight to 20% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; (ii) polydatin; and (iii) at least one compound of formula (I): (I) in which R1 and R3 are different or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, (C1-C20)-carbonyl, (C2-C20)-carbonyl, alkyl, alkenyl and alkynyl groups; R2 is selected from C1-C20 alkyl, C2-C20 alkenyl, and C2-C20 alkynyl groups. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the treatment and / or makeup of keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Anhydrous skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. Furthermore, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The development of cosmetic products dedicated to the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips is ongoing.

[0003] Different cosmetic products will include different active cosmetic ingredients due to the intended use.

[0004] The formation of free radicals is a crucial and widely accepted mechanism leading to skin aging. Antioxidants protect cells from oxidative stress damage by stifling free radicals and inhibiting the outcome of oxidation reactions. Topical application of antioxidants is widely used in skincare products to prevent skin aging.

[0005] Ascorbic acid is an antioxidant widely used in cosmetic products to combat aging. However, ascorbic acid readily forms crystals in an anhydrous system when its concentration is relatively high, which makes the system containing it unstable.

[0006] Moreover, many products on the market are not effective against aging because they cannot cover all the free radical pathways of skin aging.

[0007] It is therefore desirable to propose stable compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, which can effectively combat skin aging. Summary of the invention

[0008] The present invention aims to develop stable skincare and / or makeup compositions of keratinous materials, which can effectively combat skin aging.

[0009] The present invention also aims to propose a non-therapeutic method of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials with the above compositions.

[0010] Consequently, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a com anhydrous position, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials including:

[0011] (i) from 7% by weight to 20% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0012] (ii) of polydatene; and

[0013] (iii) at least one compound of formula (I):

[0014] wherein Ri and R3 are different or identical to each other, independently chosen from hydrogen, (acyl in Ci-C2o)-carbonyl, (alkenyl in C2-C2o)-carbonyl, alkyl in Ci-C20, alkenyl in C2-C20 and alkynyl in C2-C20; R2 is chosen from alkyl in CrC2o, alkenyl in C2-C20 and alkynyl in C2-C20.

[0015] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0016] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of the composition according to the present invention to combat skin aging.

[0017] Other features and advantages of the invention will become clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0018] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used in the description have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0019] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0020] Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0021] The expression "and / or" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one of or both" indicated.

[0022] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used in the description, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0023] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described in the description are approximate values ​​that may be changed according to the desired purpose, if applicable.

[0024] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably that it is free of water. Where appropriate, these small quantities of water may be supplied by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amounts but are not deliberately supplied.

[0025] As used in the description, the expression "keratinous materials" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" means all the skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material is the skin of the face.

[0026] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0027] The composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0028] (i) from 7% by weight to 20% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition;

[0029] (ii) of polydatene; and

[0030] (iii) at least one compound of formula (I) as defined above. Ascorbic acid

[0031] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises from 7% by weight to 20% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] Ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin C, is particularly in the L form.

[0033] Ascorbic acid has the following structure:

[0034]

[0035]

[0036]

[0037]

[0038]

[0039]

[0040] Examples of commercial ascorbic acid products include those sold by DSM Nutritional Products under the trade name Ascorbic Acid Fine Powder®, by Northeast General Pharmaceutical Factory under the trade name Ascorbic Acid EP / BP / USP / FCC / E300®, or by CSPC Weishing Pharmaceutical under the name Ascorbic Acid 100 Mesh®. Advantageously, ascorbic acid is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 9 to 18% by weight, preferably from 11 to 16% by weight, and more preferably from 12% to 14% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polydatene According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises polydaten. Polydatin is a polyphenol belonging to the stilbenoid chemical family, also known as piceide. Polydatin can be extracted from the root and rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum and can also be found in a variety of other sources, such as grapes, peanuts, hop cones, red wines, hop pellets, cocoa products, chocolate products, and many everyday foods. Polydatin includes trans-polydatin and cis-polydatin. Trans-polydatin will isomerize to cis-polydatin. Preferably, polydatin is chosen from trans-polydatin, cis-polydatin and an associated combination. Trans-polydatin is a 3,4',5-trihydroxystilbene-3-[3-mono-D glucoside, a stilbenoid which is a trans-resveratrol substituted at position 3 by a [3-D-glucosyl] residue, and which has the following structure:

[0041] OH Examples of commercial polydatene products include those sold under the name POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT EXTRACT by the company GUILIN LAYN NATURAL INGREDIENTS.

[0042] Advantageously, polydatin is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Compounds of formula (I)

[0043] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one compound of formula (I):

[0044] wherein Ri and R3 are different or identical to each other, independently chosen from hydrogen, (acyl in Ci-C2o)-carbonyl, (alkenyl in C2-C2o)-carbonyl, alkyl in Ci-C20, alkenyl in C2-C20 and alkynyl in C2-C20; R2 is chosen from alkyl in Ci-C2o, alkenyl in C2-C20 and alkynyl in C2-C20.

[0045] The compound of formula (I) is commercially available or can be synthesized by a method known in art.

[0046] Preferably, Ri and R3 are different or identical to each other, independently chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group in Ci-Ci0.

[0047] Preferably, R2 is a Ci-Cio alkyl group.

[0048] More preferably, Ri and R3 are different or identical to each other, independently chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group in Ci-C4.

[0049] More preferably, R2 is a Ci-C4 alkyl group.

[0050] Preferably, Ri and R3 are hydrogen.

[0051] Preferably, R2 is a methyl or ethyl group.

[0052] According to a preferred embodiment, Ri and R3 are independently selected from hydrogen, a (Ci-C6 alkyl)-carbonyl group, (C2-C6 alkenyl)-carbonyl, Ci-C6 alkyl, C2-C6 alkenyl, C3-C6 alkynyl group; R2 is selected from Ci-C6 alkyl and C2-C6 alkenyl groups.

[0053] According to another preferred embodiment, Ri and R3 are independently selected from hydrogen, linear or branched (CrC4)-alkyl carbonyl groups, linear or branched (C2-C4)-alkenyl carbonyl groups, linear or branched CrC4 alkyl groups, linear or branched C2-C4 alkenyl groups, linear or branched C3-C4 alkynyl groups; R2 is chosen from linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl groups, linear or branched C2-C4 alkenyl groups.

[0054] According to another preferred embodiment, Ri and R3 are hydrogen, R2 is an ethyl group.

[0055] Preferably, the compound of formula (I) is 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.

[0056] 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid has the following structure:

[0057] As an example of commercial products of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, one can cite those sold by the company CORUM under the trade name ET-VC (K).

[0058] Advantageously, the compound of formula (I) is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Ferulic acid and / or associated derivatives

[0059] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one of ferulic acid and / or associated derivatives.

[0060] Ferulic acid, whose CAS number is 1135-24-6, is also called 4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid, which has the following formula:

[0061] Ferulic acid is commonly found in giant fennel, coffee seeds, apples, artichokes, peanuts, and oranges, as well as in the seeds and cell walls of commelinid plants (such as rice, wheat, oats, and pineapples). Like many natural phenols, it is a potent antioxidant that is highly reactive against free radicals and reduces oxidative stress. Numerous studies suggest that ferulic acid may have antitumor activity.

[0062] Examples of ferulic acid derivatives include ferulic acid salts and esters, for example, sodium ferulate, benzyl or methyl esters of feruloyl-amino acid.

[0063] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one of ferulic acid and sodium ferulate.

[0064] More preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises ferulic acid.

[0065] As an example of a commercial ferulic acid product, ORYZA FERULIX from ORYZA OIL & FAT CHEMICAL can be cited.

[0066] Advantageously, ferulic acid and / or an associated derivative is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Deep eutectic solvents

[0067] Advantageously, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more deep eutectic solvents for ascorbic acid.

[0068] Examples of deep eutectic solvents for ascorbic acid include amino acids and betaines.

[0069] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more deep eutectic solvents for ascorbic acid selected from proline, sarcosine, alanine, betaine and associated mixtures.

[0070] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises betaine as deep eutectic solvents for ascorbic acid.

[0071] Advantageously, the deep eutectic solvent is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 50% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0072] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents, preservatives and bactericides, surfactants, thickeners, pH regulators and associated mixtures.

[0073] A person skilled in the art can adjust the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Hydrophilic phase

[0074] The composition of the present invention may include a hydrophilic phase.

[0075] Preferably, the hydrophilic phase comprises one or more organic solvents selected from monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol (Ci-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol (CrC4)alkyl ethers and associated mixtures.

[0076] The term “polyol” here refers to an alcohol comprising at least two hydroxyl groups.

[0077] The polyol may have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

[0078] Preferably, the hydrophilic phase comprises one or more C2-C6 polyols.

[0079] The C2-C6 polyol can be chosen from glycerin, diglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and a related mixture.

[0080] In the present invention, the definition of polyol includes all possible isomers. For example, propylene glycol includes 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, and 1,1-propylene glycol. Butylene glycol includes 1,4-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, etc.

[0081] In a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic phase comprises one or more C2-C6 polyols selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin and an associated mixture.

[0082] Where appropriate, the hydrophilic phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 40% by weight to 92% by weight, preferably from 70% by weight to 90% by weight, more preferably from 80% by weight to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0084] (i) from 11% by weight to 16% by weight of ascorbic acid;

[0085] (ii) from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid; and

[0086] (iii) from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight of polydatin.

[0087] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0088] (i) from 11% by weight to 16% by weight of ascorbic acid;

[0089] (ii) from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid;

[0090] (iii) from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight of polydatin; and

[0091] (iv) from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight of ferulic acid.

[0092] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0093] (i) from 11% by weight to 16% by weight of ascorbic acid;

[0094] (ii) from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid;

[0095] (iii) from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight of polydatin;

[0096] (iv) of 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight of ferulic acid; and

[0097] (v) from 3% by weight to 30% by weight of betaine. Method and use

[0098] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.

[0099] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0100] In particular, the keratinous material can be the skin, for example facial skin.

[0101] According to the third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of the composition according to the present invention to combat skin aging. EXAMPLES

[0102] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0103] The main raw materials used, trade names and associated suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0104] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier Ascorbic acid VC ASCORBIC ACID 100 MESH (95%) DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS Ferulic acid ORYZA FERULIX ORYZA OIL & FAT CHEMICAL Polygonum cuspidatum root extract POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT EXTRACT GUILIN LAYN NATURAL IN GREDIENTS 3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid ET-VC®(K) CORUM

[0105] Inventive Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-5

[0106] Compositions of inventive examples (El) 1-3 and comparative examples (EC) 1-5 were prepared on the basis of the quantities given in Table 2. The quantities are given as % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] [Tables2] Components DI 1 DI 2 El. 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 CE. 5 Ascorbic acid 12.6 12.6 12.6 12.6 22 22 12.6 - Ferulic acid 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 Polygonum cuspidatum root extract* 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid 2 2 2 - - 2 2 2 Betaine - 3.8 28.2 - - - - - Propylene glycol QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100

[0108] Polygonum cuspidatum root extract*: containing 100% by weight of polydatin.

[0109] The compositions of inventive examples 1-3 represent compositions according to the present invention.

[0110] The compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2 do not include at least one compound of formula (I).

[0111] The composition of comparative example 3 comprises more than 20% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] The composition of comparative example 4 does not include polydaten.

[0113] The composition of comparative example 5 does not include ascorbic acid.

[0114] Preparation process:

[0115] The compositions listed above were prepared by mixing all the components with stirring and heating to 80 °C to obtain a transparent composition, then cooling to room temperature. Assessment Stability

[0116] The stability of each prepared composition was evaluated as follows.

[0117] First, 5 samples of each composition to be evaluated were placed in an oven at a constant temperature of 25 °C. After 24 hours, 4 samples were placed in 4 test ovens and another sample was removed from the oven and placed at temperature ambient:

[0118] 4 ovens: set respectively at 4 °C, 30 °C, 37 °C and 45 °C for 2 months.

[0119] In the absence of macroscopic crystallization (appearance of crystals, grains, clusters) after 2 months of storage of a sample, the stability of the sample will then be evaluated as a “Success”.

[0120] In the event of macroscopic crystallization (appearance of crystals, grains, clusters) after 2 months of storage of a sample, the stability of the sample will then be evaluated as a “Failure”.

[0121] The results of the stability of the compositions of inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-5 have been summarized below.

[0122] [Tables3] Stability EL 1 EL 2 EL 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 EC. 5 2M 4 °C Success Success Success Success Failure Success Success Success 30 °C Success Success Success Success Failure Success Success Success 37 °C Success Success Success Success Failure Success Success Success 45 °C Success Success Success Success Failure Success Success Success TA (25 °C) 2 A Success Success Success Failure Failure Failure Success Success Success

[0123] It can be seen in Table 3 that the compositions of inventive examples 1-3 are stable. Anti-oxidation capacity

[0124] The anti-oxidation capacity of each composition was evaluated by a SQUALENE (thin film) TEST as follows:

[0125] a. preparation of a 1% squalene-ethanol solution;

[0126] b. preparation of a squalene film on frosted glass slides, of approximately 50 qg / cm2;

[0127] c. application of the composition on squalene film, with 9 slides repeated for one composition;

[0128] d. support of a "solar" irritation on each prepared slide (step c) for 5 J / cm2 of UVA in total (calculated by irritation force at 360 nm);

[0129] e. extraction of oxidized squalene peroxides and squalene residue with methanol on a laboratory shaker; and

[0130] f. quantification of squalene peroxides and extracted squalene.

[0131] The results have been summarized in Table 4.

[0132] [Tables4] El. 1 El. 2 El. 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 CE. 5 Peroxidized squalene (%) 27 27 27 27 NA NA 49 47

[0133] NA: not tested because the composition under test is not stable.

[0134] Note: the less peroxidized the squalene, the better the anti-oxidation capacity. When the peroxidized squalene is less than 40%, the anti-oxidation capacity is considered acceptable.

[0135] It can be seen that the compositions of inventive examples 1-3 have good anti-oxidation capacity (i.e. an anti-aging capacity) and are stable.

Claims

Demands

1. An anhydrous composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials comprising: (i) 7% to 20% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; (ii) polydatin; and (iii) at least one compound of formula (I): RO—x (I) HOZ \ . / P 0 in which Ri and R3 are different or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, (acyl in Ci-C2o)-carbonyl, (alkenyl in C2-C2o)-carbonyl, alkyl in Ci-C20, alkenyl in C2-C20 and alkynyl in C2-C20; R2 is selected from alkyl in Ci-C20, alkenyl in C2-C20 and alkynyl in C2-C20.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein polydatin is selected from trans-polydatin, cis-polydatin and an associated combination.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein in formula (I), Ri and R3 are different or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen and an alkyl group in Ci-Cio; R2 is an alkyl group in Ci-CiO, preferably, Ri and R3 are different or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen and an alkyl group in Ci-C4; R2 is an alkyl group in CrC4 more preferably, Ri and R3 are hydrogen; R2 is a methyl or ethyl group.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising at least one of ferulic acid and / or associated derivatives, the ferulic acid derivatives being selected from salts, esters of ferulic acid and an associated mixture, preferably the composition comprises at least one of ferulic acid and sodium ferulate, more preferably the composition comprises ferulic acid.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising one or more deep eutectic solvents for ascorbic acid, preferably selected from amino acids, betaines and an associated mixture, more preferably selected from proline, sarcosine, alanine, betaine and associated mixtures, preferably the deep eutectic solvent for ascorbic acid is present in an amount from 0.1% by weight to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 50% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising a hydrophilic phase.

7. Composition according to claim 6, wherein the hydrophilic phase comprises one or more organic solvents selected from monoalcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms; polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms; glycol ethers having 3 to 16 carbon atoms, and associated mixtures, preferably selected from C2-C6 polyols, more preferably selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin and an associated mixture.

8. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: (i) 11% to 16% by weight of ascorbic acid; (ii) 0.5% to 3% by weight of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid; (iii) 0.1% to 3% by weight of polydatin; (iv) optionally, 0.5% to 3% by weight of ferulic acid; and (v) optionally, 3% to 30% by weight of betaine.

9. Non-therapeutic method of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 on keratinous materials.

10. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to combat skin aging.