COMPOSITION AND METHOD USING IT

Abstract

COMPOSITION AND METHOD USING THEREOF The present invention relates to a composition comprising the following components: (i) at least one oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredient; (ii) at least one solid lipid other than component (i); (iii) at least one liquid lipid other than component (i); and (iv) a combination of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant, wherein the ratio of the total weight of the at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is 0.3 to 1000, preferably 0.35 to 500, more preferably 0.4 to 100, most preferably 0.5 to 50. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of said composition to the keratinous materials. Figure for the abridged version: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION AND METHOD USING THEREOF technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for the care of keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials. PRIOR TECHNOLOGY

[0002] The skin acts as a natural barrier between the internal and external environments and therefore plays an important role in vital biological functions such as protection against mechanical and chemical injury, microorganisms and damage caused by ultraviolet radiation.

[0003] Numerous products are designed to deliver active ingredients to the skin.

[0004] Solid lipid nanocarriers (SLNs) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) have been used to deliver active ingredients, particularly hydrophobic cosmetic active ingredients. Some cosmetic active ingredients, such as ceramides, are insoluble in water. Dissolving them directly in an oil can result in a greasy feeling. Thanks to solid lipid nanocarriers (SLNs) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs), they can be easily incorporated into water-based formulas, resulting in homogeneous suspensions.

[0005] The structural uniqueness of NLCs brings advantages, for example, it can lead to an increased loading capacity of active ingredients and a reduced risk of active ingredients coming out.

[0006] However, some NLCs on the market have a less regular and imperfect structure due to the incorporation of some liquid lipids into a solid lipid matrix, which leads to compatibility problems when the NLCs are introduced into cosmetic products; therefore, the products are not stable.

[0007] In addition, typical NLC preparation processes require a high input of mechanical energy, are costly and difficult to carry out on an industrial scale.

[0008] It is therefore desirable to develop new products comprising nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredients, which are stable and can be easily produced. Summary of the invention

[0009] One object of this application is to offer products comprising nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredients, which are stable and can be easily produced.

[0010] The inventors have now discovered that the above object can be obtained by the present invention.

[0011] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition comprising the following components:

[0012] (i) at least one oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredient;

[0013] (ii) at least one solid lipid different from component (i);

[0014] (iii) at least one liquid lipid different from component (i); and

[0015] (iv) a combination of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant,

[0016] wherein the ratio of the total weight of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is 0.3 to 1000, preferably 0.35 to 500, more preferably 0.4 to 100, most preferably 0.5 to 50.

[0017] In some embodiments, the composition is a homogeneous mixture. Nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredients can be easily formed from the homogeneous mixture.

[0018] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredients. Nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredients can be easily formed.

[0019] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of a suspension of nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredients in an aqueous phase.

[0020] The composition of the present invention can be used for skin care.

[0021] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0022] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0023] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention. When the definition of a If the term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0024] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0025] Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0026] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0027] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be changed according to the desired purpose, if applicable.

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is considered in particular according to the present invention.

[0029] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0030] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises the following components:

[0031] (i) at least one oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredient;

[0032] (ii) at least one solid lipid different from component (i);

[0033] (iii) at least one liquid lipid different from component (i); and

[0034] (iv) a combination of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant,

[0035] wherein the ratio of the total weight of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is 0.3 to 1000, preferably 0.35 to 500, more preferably 0.4 to 100, most preferably 0.5 to 50.

[0036] Oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredients

[0037] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least an oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredient.

[0038] As used herein, an oil-soluble cosmetic active ingredient means that a cosmetic active ingredient has a solubility in oil, as measured at 25 °C, of ​​at least 1 g / 100 g. An oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient means that a cosmetic active ingredient has a solubility in oil, as measured at 80 °C, of ​​at least 1 g / 100 g.

[0039] Preferably, the oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredient is selected from a perfume, antioxidants, UV fillers, chelating agents and their combinations.

[0040] Examples of oil-soluble / dispersible antioxidants include, but are not limited to, ceramide, retinol, ferulic acid, beta-carotene, oryzanol, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, vitamin C glucoside, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate and diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate.

[0041] Examples of oil-soluble / dispersible UV filters include, but are not limited to, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and terephthalylidene dimphresulfonic acid.

[0042] Examples of oil-soluble / dispersible chelating agents include, but are not limited to, phytate and sodium gluconate.

[0043] Advantageously, the oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredient is selected from ceramide, retinol, ferulic acid, beta-carotene, oryzanol, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, vitamin C glucoside, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, terephthalylidene diacmphron sulfonic acid, sodium phytate, gluconate and mixtures thereof.

[0044] In certain embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises a ceramide.

[0045] Advantageously, the oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredient is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Solid lipids

[0046] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one solid lipid different from component (i), i.e. the oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredient.

[0047] As used herein, "solid lipid" means that the lipid is solid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). The melting point is greater than 25 °C, preferably greater than 45 °C.

[0048] Solid lipids can be selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes, mono-, di- or triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

[0049] Advantageously, the solid fatty acids comprise 12 to 24 carbons with a carboxyl group, preferably the solid fatty acid is chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably the solid fatty acid is chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Advantageously, the solid fatty alcohols comprise 12 to 24 carbons with a hydroxyl group, preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauric alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, more preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Advantageously, the waxes are waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, silicone-free synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof, preferably the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] Advantageously, the mono-, di- or triglycerides are chosen from the esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched including 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably, the mono-, di- or triglyceride is chosen from the mono-, di- or triglycerides of one or more of the following: lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

[0053] According to some preferred embodiments, the solid lipid is selected from hydrocarbon waxes, preferably selected from beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alpha wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Advantageously, the solid lipid is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Liquid lipids

[0055] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one liquid lipid different from component (i), i.e. the oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredient.

[0056] Preferably, the liquid lipid is chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils.

[0057] Here “oil” means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0058] The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain hydroxy, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0059] As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0060] More preferably, the liquid lipid is chosen from:

[0061] - linear or branched C6-C16 alkanes. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane;

[0062] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane;

[0063] - short-chain esters containing a total of 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate,

[0064] - synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms,

[0065] - esters such as oils of formula R*C(O)-O-R2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a chain, particularly branched, based on hydrocarbons containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 > 10, for example purcelline oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates in C12 to C15, hexyl laurate, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alkyl or polyalkyl heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate and 2-octyldodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters;

[0066] - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, with a carbon chain branched and / or unsaturated containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyl-dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol.

[0067] Even more preferably, the liquid lipid is chosen from linear C6-C14 alkanes, branched C6-C16 alkanes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

[0068] Advantageously, the liquid lipid is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] It has been found that the combination of solid lipid and liquid lipid can increase the loading capacity of oil-soluble / dispersible active ingredients.

[0070] For the purposes of the present invention, preferably, the weight ratio of solid lipid to liquid lipid is 1 to 1000, preferably 2 to 500, preferably 3 to 100, more preferably 4 to 50. Dual-chain surfactants

[0071] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one double-chain surfactant.

[0072] The double-chain surfactant is different from components (i), (ii) and (iii) defined above.

[0073] Preferably, the double-chain surfactant is chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric double-chain surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0074] More preferably, the double-chain surfactant is chosen from polyglyceryl fatty acid diesters, dialkyl sulfosuccinates, phospholipids and mixtures thereof.

[0075] More preferably, the double-chain nonionic surfactant is chosen from:

[0076] the diesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs;

[0077] dialkyl sulfosuccinates, in which the alkyl has 4 to 24 carbon atoms and the counter-ion to the sulfonic acid group is chosen from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions,

[0078] lecithins, and

[0079] their mixtures.

[0080] Examples of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 8 to 22 carbon atoms include lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

[0081] Examples of polyglyceryl fatty acid diesters include, but are not limited to, dicaprate PG2, dicaprylate PG2, dilaurate PG2, dimyristate PG2, distearate PG2, diisostearate PG2, dioleate PG2, dicaprate PG3, dicaprylate PG3, dilaurate PG3, dimyristate PG3, distearate PG3, diisostearate PG3, dioleate PG3, dicaprate PG4, dicaprylate PG4, dilaurate PG4, dimyristate PG4, distearate PG4, diisostearate PG4, dioleate PG4, dicaprate PG5, dicaprylate PG5, dilaurate PG5, dimyristate PG5, distearate PG5, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 dioleate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 distearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 dioleate, PG7 dicaprate, PG7 dicaprylate, PG7 dilaurate, PG7 dimyristate, PG7 distearate, PG7 diisostearate, PG7 dioleate, PG8 dicaprate, PG8 dicaprylate, PG8 dilaurate, PG8 dimyristate, PG8 distearate, PG8 diisostearate, PG8 dioleate, PG9 dicaprate, PG9 dicaprylate, PG9 dilaurate, PG9 dimyristate, PG9 distearate, diisostearate PG9,Dioleate PG9, Dicaprate PG10, Dicaprylate PG10, Dilaurate PG10, Dimyristate PG10, Distearate PG10, Diisostearate PG10, Dioleate PG10, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] Des exemples de di-alkyl sulfosuccinates incluent, mais sans s'y limiter, le dié-thylhexyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le dinonyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le diisononyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le dioctyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le diheptyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le dihexyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le dicapryl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le didécyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le diundécyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le dilauryl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le dicococoyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le ditridécyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le diheptyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le diéthylhexyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le dinonyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le diisononyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le dioctyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le diheptyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le dihexyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le dicapryl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le didécyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le diundécyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium,le dilauryl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le dicocoyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le ditridécyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate d'ammonium, le dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le diéthylhexyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le dinonyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le diisononyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le dioctyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le diheptyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le dihexyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le dicapryl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le didécyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le diundécyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le dilauryl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le dicocoyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le ditridécyl sulfo- , succinate de potassium, le dipropyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le dihexyl sulfo-succinate de potassium et le dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate de potassium.

[0083] Des exemples de lécithines incluent, mais sans s'y limiter, la phosphatidylcholine et la phosphatidyléthanolamine.

[0084] Most preferably, the non-ionic double-chain surfactant is chosen from PG10 dioleate, sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, phosphatidylcholine and mixtures.

[0085] Advantageously, the double-chain surfactant is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Single-chain surfactants

[0086] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one single-chain surfactant.

[0087] The single-chain surfactant is different from components (i), (ii) and (iii) defined above.

[0088] Preferably, the single-chain surfactant is chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, single-chain cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0089] More preferably, the single-chain surfactant is chosen from polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters, sucrose esters, alkyl glucoside, polysorbate esters, amino acid surfactants, tertiary ammonium salts (such as stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine) and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Even more preferably, the single-chain surfactant is selected from monoesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, anionic amino acid surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Preferred examples of polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters include caprate PG2, caprylate PG2, laurate PG2, myristate PG2, stearate PG2, isostearate PG2, oleate PG2, caprate PG3, caprylate PG3, laurate PG3, myristate PG3, stearate PG3, isostearate PG3, oleate PG3, caprate PG4, caprylate PG4, laurate PG4, myristate PG4, stearate PG4, isostearate PG4, oleate PG4, caprate PG5, caprylate PG5, laurate PG5, myristate PG5, stearate PG5, isostearate PG5, oleate PG5, caprate PG6, caprylate PG6, laurate PG6, myristate PG6, stearate PG6, isostearate PG6, oleate PG6, caprate PG7, caprylate PG7, laurate PG7, myristate PG7, stearate PG7, isostearate PG7, oleate PG7, caprate PG8, caprylate PG8, laurate PG8, myristate PG8, stearate PG8, PG8 isostearate, PG8 oleate, PG9 caprate, PG9 caprylate, PG9 laurate, PG9 myristate, PG9 stearate, PG9 isostearate, PG9 oleate, PG10 caprate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 laurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 isostearate and PG10 oleate.

[0092] Preferably, the anionic amino acid surfactant is represented by formula (I): O (D UCH2)n COOM z-' xr x Y

[0093] in which:

[0094] Z represents a linear alkyl or alkenyl having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0095] X is hydrogen or a methyl group,

[0096] n equals 0 yes,

[0097] Y is chosen from among hydrogen, -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O M+, and

[0098] M is a salt-forming cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

[0099] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula (I):

[0100] Z represents a linear C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl,

[0101] X is hydrogen or a methyl group,

[0102] nvautO,

[0103] Y is chosen from hydrogen, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O M+, and

[0104] M is a salt-forming cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

[0105] Examples of amino acid surfactants are the salts of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine and any mixture thereof.

[0106] More specifically, examples include amino acid surfactants such as dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, and sodium lauroyl glutamate. sodium, myristoyl glutamate de sodium, palmitoyl glutamate de sodium, stéaroyl glutamate de sodium, undécylénoyl glutamate de sodium, [3-alaninate de lauroyl méthyle de potassium, cocoyl alaninate de sodium, [3-alaninate de cocoyl méthyle de sodium et [3-alaninate de myristoyle méthyle de sodium, lauroyl glycinate de sodium, cocoyl glycinate de sodium, myristoyl glycinate de sodium, lauroyl glycinate de potassium, cocoyl glycinate de potassium, lauroyl sarcosinate de potassium, cocoyl sarcosinate de potassium, cocoyl sarcosinate de sodium, lauroyl sarcosinate de sodium, myristoyl sarcosinate de sodium, oléoyl sarcosinate de sodium, palmitoyl sarcosinate de sodium, lauroyl sarcosinate d'ammonium, lauroyl aspartate de sodium, myristoyl aspartate de sodium, cocoyl aspartate de sodium, caproyl aspartate de sodium, lauroyl aspartate disodique, myristoyl aspartate disodique, cocoyl aspartate disodique, caproyl aspartate disodique, lauroyl aspartate de potassium,Potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] According to the present invention, the preferred amino acid surfactant is selected from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA-cocoyl glutamate and a mixture thereof.

[0108] More preferably, the single-chain surfactant is chosen from PG10 laurate, potassium cocoyl glycinate and mixtures thereof.

[0109] Advantageously, the single-chain nonionic surfactant is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] It has been found that the combination of the double-chain surfactant and the single-chain surfactant can facilitate the self-emulsification of molten lipids, so that nanometer-sized droplets can form spontaneously at high temperature.

[0111] In the composition of the present invention, the ratio of the total weight of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is from 0.3 to 1000, preferably from 0.35 to 500, more preferably from 0.4 to 100, more preferably from 0.5 to 50, more preferably from 0.6 to 45, more preferably from 0.7 to 40, more preferably from 0.8 to 35, more preferably from 0.9 to 30, even more preferably from 1 to 25, most preferably from 1 to 20. Aqueous phase

[0112] The composition of the present invention may include a continuous aqueous phase.

[0113] Said aqueous phase comprises water.

[0114] Advantageously, water is present in an amount ranging from 20% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0115] The composition of the present invention may include an additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to the oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredient as defined above.

[0116] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of the additional cosmetic active ingredient according to the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0117] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, preservatives and bactericides, thickeners, pH correctors, fillers and mixtures thereof.

[0118] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so that it does not have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0119] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a keratin treatment composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0120] (i) from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one soluble cosmetic active ingredient / dispersible in oil;

[0121] (ii) from 3% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one solid lipid selected from beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; lignite wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite and mixtures thereof;

[0122] (iii) from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one liquid lipid selected from linear C6-C14 alkanes, branched C6-C16 alkanes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof; and

[0123] (iv) from 1% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one double-chain non-ionic surfactant selected from the diesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched polyglycerols including 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units; and 1% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant selected from monoesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched polyglycerols including 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, anionic amino acid surfactants and mixtures thereof,

[0124] wherein the ratio of the total weight of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is from 0.5 to 50, preferably from 0.6 to 45, more preferably from 0.7 to 40, more preferably from 0.8 to 35, more preferably from 0.9 to 30, even more preferably from 1 to 25, most preferably from 1 to 20. pharmaceutical form and process

[0125] In some embodiments, the composition is a homogeneous mixture, from which nanostructured lipid carriers can be easily formed by spontaneous emulsification (i.e. phase inversion composition) without involving a vigorous input of mechanical energy, for example high-speed, high-pressure homogenization, sonication, or membrane emulsification.

[0126] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredients.

[0127] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of a suspension of nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredients in an aqueous phase.

[0128] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is translucent or semi-translucent.

[0129] When the nanoparticle size is 110 to 150 nm, the composition is semi-translucent; and when the nanoparticle size is less than 110 nm, the composition is translucent. When the nanoparticle size is greater than 500 nm, the composition is creamy.

[0130] The composition of the present invention may take the form of a lotion, a cream, a serum, etc.

[0131] The composition of the present invention can be used as shampoos, hair coloring products and hair conditioners, skin care products, etc.

[0132] The composition of the present invention can thus be used for the care of keratinous materials.

[0133] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method a treatment for keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention on keratinous materials. EXAMPLES

[0134] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0135] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1. [Table 1] Name INC! Trade name Supplier Euphorbia cenfera (candelilla) wax Light Special Candelilla REAL® Multiceras SA de CV Squalane NeossanœTM Squalane Aprinnova, LLC Polyglycesyl-W dioleate (and) tocopherol SunSoft Q-172Y-C(MB) Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. Polyglyceryl-10 îawate DERMOFEEL G 10 L MB Evonik Operations GmbH Potassium cocoyl glycinate AMHJTE GCK-11 AJNOMOTO Ceramide NP DS-CÈRAMIDE Y3S SOLUS ADVANCED MATERIALS Ceramide AP DS-CERAMIDE AP SOLUS ADVANCED MATERIALS Perfume FRAGRANCE ROSE ELIXIR P119 449 ROBERTET

[0136] Inventive examples 1 to 10 and comparative examples 1 to 10

[0137] The compositions of inventive examples (El.) 1 to 10 and comparative examples (EC.) 1 to 10 in the form of a suspension were prepared according to the quantities indicated in Tables 2 to 4. The quantity of each component is given as a % by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it. [Table 2] Components El. 1 DI 2 DI 3 DI 4 EG. 1 EG. 2 LC 3 Euphorbla cerifera (candeæa) wax 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Squaiane 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Polyglyceryl-10 adeate (and) tocopherol 2 2 2 2 2 - 0.4 Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 3 3 3 3 - 3 0.6 Ceramide NP 9.2 0.3 - - 0.2 0.2 0.2 Ceramide AP - - 0.2 0.3 - - - Water QSWÛ QSW0 QS100 QS100 CS 100 QS100 QS100

[0138] Polyglyceryl dioleate-10 (and) tocopherol comprises 99.95% by weight of polyglyceryl dioleate-10 and 0.05% by weight of tocopherol.

[0139] The compositions of inventive examples 1 to 4 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0140] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant.

[0141] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant.

[0142] The composition of comparative example 3 comprises at least one double-chain surfactant, at least one single-chain surfactant, at least one solid lipid and at least one liquid lipid, the ratio of the total weight of the at least one double-chain surfactant and the at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid being 0.2.

[0143] [Tables3] Components DI 5 DI 6 DI 7 El. 8 EC. 4 CE. 5 CE. 6 CE. 7 Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 5 5 4.5 4.5 Squalane 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - 0.5 0.5 Potassium cocoyl glycinate 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 - Polyglyceryl-1 0 dioleate (and) tocopherol 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 - 3.5 Ceramide NP 0.2 0.3 - - 0.3 - 0.2 0.2 Ceramide AP - - 0.2 0.3 - 0.3 - - Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0144] Polyglyceryl dioleate-10 (and) tocopherol comprises 99.95% by weight of polyglyceryl dioleate-10 and 0.05% by weight of tocopherol.

[0145] The compositions of inventive examples 5 to 8 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0146] The compositions of comparative examples 4 and 5 do not include at least one liquid lipid.

[0147] The composition of comparative example 6 does not include at least one non-ionic double-chain surfactant.

[0148] The composition of comparative example 7 does not include at least one surfactant single-chain nonionic.

[0149] [Table 4] Components EL 9 EL 10 EC. 8 CE. 9 CE. 10 Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Squalane 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate (and) tocopherol 2 2 - 2 - Polyglyceryl-10 laurate 3 3 3 - - ROSE ELIXIR PI 19 449 1 2 1 1 1 Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0150] Polyglyceryl dioleate-10 (and) tocopherol comprises 99.95% by weight of polyglyceryl dioleate-10 and 0.05% by weight of tocopherol.

[0151] The compositions of inventive examples 9 and 10 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0152] The composition of comparative example 8 does not include at least one non-ionic double-chain surfactant.

[0153] The composition of comparative example 9 does not include at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant.

[0154] The composition of comparative example 10 does not include at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant and at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant.

[0155] All compositions are in suspension form.

[0156] Preparation process:

[0157] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking as an example the composition of example 1 of the invention:

[0158] 1) mixture of solid lipids (Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax), lipid liquid (Squalane), surfactants (polyglyceryl-10 dioleate (and) tocopherol, polyglyceryl-10 laurate) and active ingredient (ceramide NP) at a temperature of 85 °C until a homogeneous oily phase is obtained;

[0159] 2) heating the water to a temperature of 85 °C;

[0160] 3) adding the oily phase obtained in step 1) to the water with stirring during approximately 10 minutes to achieve suspension; and

[0161] 4) rapid cooling of the suspension obtained to room temperature with slow agitation. Assessment

[0162] Each suspension of inventive examples 1 to 10 and comparative examples 1 to 10 was evaluated as follows. Particle stability and size

[0163] The samples were maintained at 4 °C, at room temperature (25 °C) and at 45 °C for 2 months, respectively.

[0164] The particle size in the samples was characterized using Brookhaven dynamic light scattering (DLS) equipment. Each sample was tested in triplicate. The particle sizes of fresh and aged samples were measured to monitor stability.

[0165] The main experimental parameters defined for the DLS experiments have been listed in Table 5.

[0166] [Tables5] Parameters Setpoint for DLS measurements Instrument parameters Angle 90 degrees Wavelength 659 nm Cell type Disposable polystyrene Measurement parameters Temperature 25 degrees C Set time 100 seconds Equilibrium time 120 seconds Dust threshold 30 Sample parameters Liquid Water Viscosity 1 cP Refractive index (RI) 1.457

[0167] Tables 6 to 8 show the effective diameter and polydispersity index (PDI) of each suspension of inventive examples 1 to 10 and comparative examples 1 to 10 after 2 months of storage.

[0168] [Tableauxô] Element 1 Element 2 Element 3 Element 4 EC.1 EC.2 EC.3 4 °C Effective diameter (nm) 103 162 96 98 Not measurable Polydispersity index 0.20 0.23 0.32 0.32 TA Effective diameter (nm) 102 114 96 106 Not measurable Polydispersity index 0.21 0.31 0.28 0.29 45 °C Effective diameter (nm) 109 217 108 127 Not measurable Polydispersity index 0.24 0.21 0.29 0.3

[0169] [Tables?] EI.5 El. 6 EL 7 El. 8 EC. 4 EC. 5 EC. 6 EC. 7 4 °C Effective diameter (nm) 84 100 88 98 Not measurable Polydispersity index 0.23 0.24 0.23 0.13 TA Effective diameter (nm) 92 115 110 120 Not measurable Polydispersity index 0.28 0.21 0.19 0.19 45 °C Effective diameter (nm) 101 186 125 178 Not measurable Polydispersity index 0.31 0.21 0.25 0.22

[0170] [Tables8] EL 9 EL 10 EC. 8 EC. 9 EC. 10 4 °C Effective diameter (nm) 116 245 Not measurable Polydispersity index 0.18 0.23 TA Effective diameter (nm) 120 248 Not measurable Polydispersity index 0.20 0.25 45 °C Effective diameter (nm) 203 350 Not measurable Polydispersity index 0.29 0.3

[0171] Effective diameter: average diameter.

[0172] The term "not measurable" means that the samples are too cloudy / opaque to be measured because of too many large particles.

[0173] The smaller the effective diameter, the more transparent the suspension. When the effective diameter is less than 110 nm, the suspension has a translucent appearance. When the effective diameter is between 110 nm and 500 nm, the suspension has a semi-translucent appearance. When the effective diameter is greater than 500 nm, the suspension has a creamy appearance.

[0174] The polydispersity index (PDI) is an index that reflects the degree of polydispersity. The lower the polydispersity index (PDI), the better the stability.

[0175] If the effective diameter of a sample stored for a period of time was less than 500 nm without the formation of large aggregates on the wall of the container, then the sample was considered "stable", otherwise the sample was considered "unstable".

[0176] The samples were then examined by polarized microscopy. For the samples having a translucent or semi-translucent appearance without the formation of large aggregates visible on the wall of the container, if some micrometer-sized crystals were observed under polarized microscopy, were then considered to be "stable but with micrometer-sized crystals".

[0177] Tables 9 to 11 show the stability of each suspension of inventive examples 1 to 10 and comparative examples 1 to 10 after 2 months of storage. [Table 9] EL1 EL2 EL3 EL4 EC.t EC. EC3 2 Appearance at 10 Translucent Semi-translucent Translucent Creamy Stability TC Stable Stable Stable Stable Unstable TA Stable Stable Stable Stable Unstable 45 SC Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable Unstable [Table 101 EL5 EL6 EL7 EL8 EC. EC. 4 5 EC EC 6 7 Appearance at TÜ Translucent Semi-translucent Translucent Semi-translucent Creamy Creamy Stability 4 °C Stable Stable Stable Stable Unstable TA Stable Stable Stable Stable Unstable Unstable 45 °C Stable Stable Stable Stable Unstable unstable [Table 11] Properties EL 9 EL 10 ES 8 EC.. 9 EC. W Appearance at T0 Semi-translucent Creamy Creamy Phase separation Stability 4°C Stable Stable Unstable Unstable TA Stable Stable Unstable Unstable Unstable 45 Stable Stable Unstable Unstable Unstable

[0178] It can be seen in Tables 6 to 11 that the suspension according to inventive examples 1 to 10 has a translucent or semi-translucent appearance and is stable for at least 2 months.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition comprising the following components: (i) at least one oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredient; (ii) at least one solid lipid other than component (i); (iii) at least one liquid lipid other than component (i); and (iv) a combination of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant, wherein the ratio of the total weight of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is 0.3 to 1000, preferably 0.35 to 500, more preferably 0.4 to 100, most preferably 0.5 to 50.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredient is selected from perfume, antioxidants, UV fillers, chelating agents, and combinations thereof; preferably selected from ceramide, retinol, ferulic acid, beta-carotene, oryzanol, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, vitamin C glucoside, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, terephthalylidene diamphrul sulfonic acid, sodium phytate, gluconate, and mixtures thereof; is more preferably ceramide.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the solid lipid is selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes, mono-, di- or triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

4. A composition according to claim 3, wherein: the solid fatty acids comprise 12 to 24 carbons with a carboxyl group, preferably the solid fatty acid is selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably the solid fatty acid is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof; the solid fatty alcohols comprise 12 to 24 carbons with a hydroxyl group, preferably the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauric alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, penta-

5.

6. decyl, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, more preferably solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof; Waxes are waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, synthetic waxes without silicone and their mixtures, preferably the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite, and their mixtures; mono-, di- or triglycerides are selected from mono-, di- or triglycerides of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched including 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably, the mono-, di- or triglyceride is selected from mono-, di- or triglycerides of one or more of the following: lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the liquid lipid is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils; preferably selected from linear or branched C6-C16 alkanes, liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes, squalane, short-chain esters containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, oil esters of the formula R'C(O)-O-R2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue including 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 > 10, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from linear C6-C14 alkanes, branched C6-C16 alkanes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the weight ratio of solid lipid to liquid lipid is 1 to 1000, preferably 2 to 500, preferably 3 to 100, more preferably 4 to 50. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in

8. wherein the double-chain surfactant is selected from nonionic double-chain surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid diesters, dialkyl sulfosuccinates, phospholipids and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from diesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, dialkyl sulfosuccinates, wherein the alkyl has 4 to 24 carbon atoms and the counter-ion to the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions, lecithins and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially chosen from among PG10 dioleate, sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate,phosphatidylcholine and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the single-chain surfactant is selected from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic single-chain surfactants and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from monoesters of polyglyceryl fatty acids, sucrose esters, alkyl glucoside, polysorbate esters, amino acid surfactants, tertiary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from monoesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, anionic amino acid surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from caprate PG2, caprylate PG2, laurate PG2, myristate PG2, stearate PG2, isostearate PG2,oleate PG2, caprate PG3, caprylate PG3, laurate PG3, myristate PG3, stearate PG3, isostearate PG3, oleate PG3, caprate PG4, caprylate PG4, laurate PG4, myristate PG4, stearate PG4, isostearate PG4, oleate PG4, caprate PG5, caprylate PG5, laurate PG5, myristate PG5, stearate PG5, isostearate PG5, oleate PG5, caprate PG6, caprylate PG6, laurate PG6, myristate PG6, stearate PG6, isostearate PG6, oleate PG6, caprate PG7, caprylate PG7, laurate PG7, myristate PG7, PG7 stearate, PG7 isostearate, PG7 oleate, PG8 caprate, PG8 caprylate, PG8 laurate, PG8 myristate, PG8 stearate, PG8 isostearate, PG8 oleate, PG9 caprate, PG9 caprylate, PG9 laurate, PG9 myristate, PG9 stearate, isostearate PG9, PG9 oleate, caprate, PG 10, caprylate PG 10, laurate PG 10, myristate PG 10, stearate PG 10, isostearate PG10, oleate PG10, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA-cocoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one oil-soluble / dispersible cosmetic active ingredient; (ii) from 3% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one solid lipid selected from beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alpha wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite and mixtures thereof; (iii) from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one liquid lipid selected from linear C6-C14 alkanes, branched C6-C16 alkanes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof; and (iv) from 1% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one non-ionic double-chain surfactant selected from the diesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched including 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a poly-glyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs;and from 1% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant selected from monoesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, comprising 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, anionic amino acid surfactants, and mixtures thereof, wherein the ratio of the total weight of the at least one double-chain surfactant and the at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is 0.5 to 50, preferably 0.6 to 45, more preferably 0.7 to 40, more preferably 0.8 to 35, more preferably 0.9 to 30, even more preferably 1 to 25, most preferably 1 to 20.;

10. Non-therapeutic process for the treatment of keratinous materials, including the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.