Composition comprising a lipophilic organic UV filter, a geminate surfactant and an anionic surfactant derived from an amino acid

Abstract

Composition comprising a lipophilic organic UV filter, a geminate surfactant and an anionic surfactant derived from an amino acid The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV filter, at least one geminate surfactant, and at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care, treatment of keratin materials, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a lipophilic organic UV filter, a geminate surfactant and an anionic surfactant derived from an amino acid

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV filter, at least one suitably selected geminate surfactant, and at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care, treatment of keratin materials, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face.

[0002] It is known that light radiation with a wavelength between 280 nm and 400 nm allows the browning of the human epidermis. Rays with a wavelength more particularly between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B, cause erythema and skin burns which can harm the development of natural tanning.

[0003] For these reasons, as well as for aesthetic reasons, there is a constant demand for means of controlling this natural tanning in order to thus control the color of the skin: it is therefore appropriate to filter UV-B radiation. It is also known that UV-A rays, with a wavelength between 320 and 400 nm, which cause the skin to brown, are likely to induce an alteration of the skin, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or skin continuously exposed to solar radiation. UV-A rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature skin aging.

[0004] Thus, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons, such as preserving the natural elasticity of the skin, for example, more and more people want to control the effect of UV-A rays on their skin. It is therefore desirable to also filter UV-A radiation.

[0005] In order to ensure protection of the skin and keratin materials against UV radiation, photo-protective compositions are generally used, comprising organic filters, active in UV-A and active in UV-B.

[0006] Many cosmetic compositions intended for the photoprotection of the skin have been proposed to date. These compositions generally contain, in an emulsified liquid support (preferably an oil-in-water emulsion), one or more organic molecules, capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation, soluble in the oily and / or aqueous phase. The use of mineral metal oxide pigments such as titanium dioxide in such sunscreen compositions is becoming increasingly common because these particles, invisible to the naked eye due to their small size, make it possible to increase the protection index of the compositions containing them.

[0007] One of the major drawbacks of these photo-protective emulsions containing organic filters and / or mineral filters lies in the difficulty of reconciling good stability of the product, ease of application of the product, effective protection, and good cosmeticity such as a fresh and non-sticky feel.

[0008] This is particularly the case when the sunscreen composition comprises lipophilic organic UV filters, and in particular when these lipophilic organic UV filters are solid at room temperature.

[0009] The applicant has discovered that the combination of a geminate surfactant and a surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts makes it possible to improve the stability of compositions comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV filter, and in particular the stability of compositions comprising solid lipophilic organic UV filters, while allowing effective protection against ultraviolet rays and good cosmeticity.

[0010] Thus, the present invention relates, according to a first aspect, to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising: - at least one lipophilic organic UV filter; - at least one geminate surfactant as defined below; and - at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts.

[0011] According to a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising: - at least one lipophilic organic UV filter; - at least one geminate surfactant as defined below; and - at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts; the composition being free of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate).

[0012] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising: - at least one lipophilic organic UV filter; - at least one geminate surfactant as defined below; and - at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts; the composition being free of liquid lipophilic organic UV filter.

[0013] According to another particular embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising; - at least one solid lipophilic organic UV filter; - at least one geminate surfactant as defined below; and - at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts.

[0014] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising; - at least one solid lipophilic organic UV filter other than Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane; - at least one geminate surfactant as defined below; and - at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts.

[0015] According to another preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising; - at least one solid lipophilic organic UV filter; - at least one geminate surfactant as defined below; and - at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts; the composition being free from liquid lipophilic organic UV filters.

[0016] According to another particular embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising; - at least one solid lipophilic organic UVA filter and at least one solid lipophilic organic UVB filter; - at least one geminate surfactant as defined below; and - at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts.

[0017] According to another particular embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising; - at least one mixed UV filter capable of absorbing solid organic lipophilic UVA and UVB; - at least one geminate surfactant as defined below; and - at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts.

[0018] Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the implementation, in a photoprotective composition, of the association of a suitably selected geminate surfactant with a surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain or one of its salts makes it possible to achieve a composition stable position over time, which is easy to spread, has high photo-protective power and also has good cosmetic properties such as a refreshing power and a non-greasy and non-sticky texture.

[0019] The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the use of a composition as defined above, for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or the face.

[0020] The invention also relates, according to yet another of its aspects, to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0021] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or uniformity of the complexion comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0022] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0023] The composition according to the invention has good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and / or microscopically, after storage for 24 hours, one week, one month, or two months, at room temperature (25°C), at 4°C, at 45°C, or at 55°C. A stable composition generally retains its pleasantness and its sensory signature upon application over time. More precisely, the stability of a composition can be evaluated qualitatively, for example by the absence of phase shift phenomena or the appearance of crystals, or quantitatively by monitoring the evolution of parameters such as viscosity or pH.

[0024] In the context of the invention, the filtering efficiency is evaluated from the evaluation of the SPF and the UVAPF.

[0025] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "SPF" (Sun Protection Factor) means the sun protection factor which measures the level of protection against UVB rays. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time required to obtain sunburn with a photoprotective composition and that without the product. More specifically, the term "SPF" is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).

[0026] The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) assessment can be carried out in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material on which the com is applied photoprotective position. For this protocol, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. A particular protocol, presented as an example, is currently undergoing ISO approval under the name ISO Committee Draft 23675.

[0027] The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be carried out in-vivo according to the ISO 24444: 2019 protocol “Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)”.

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, UVAPF means the index characterizing protection against UVA. In particular, this index can be measured in vivo according to the “PPD” (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, ISO-24442: 2022 protocol, by the color of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA. The evaluation of protection against UVA can also be measured in vitro using a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material on which the sunscreen composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. The ISO 24443: 2021 protocol describes such an in vitro method.

[0029] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows.

[0030] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here, the term “physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0031] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is understood to mean in particular the skin, the scalp, the keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair, and the body hairs, the nails, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and the mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0032] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0033] Furthermore, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in the present description are respectively equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal”.

[0034] By "prevent" or "prevention", according to the invention, is meant the fact of reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratin material.

[0035] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “liquid lipophilic organic UV filter” means a lipophilic organic UV filter which, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), flows under its own weight.

[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid lipophilic organic UV filter" means a lipophilic organic UV filter which, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), does not flow under its own weight, in other words is not liquid, the solid lipophilic organic UV filter being able to be malleable or not. It can in particular be in powder form.

[0037] By “organic UVA filter” is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm.

[0038] By “organic UVB filter” is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0039] By “mixed organic UV filter” is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm, but also UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0040] By "lipophilic organic UV filter" is meant any organic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

[0041] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic organic UV filter” means a water-soluble organic UV filter or a water-dispersible organic UV filter.

[0042] By "water-soluble organic filter" is meant any organic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0043] By "water-dispersible organic filter" is meant any organic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of forming in a liquid aqueous phase a homogeneous suspension of particles with a volume average size of less than 100 microns. The volume average size is determined by laser diffraction granulometry.

[0044] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® marketed by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, achieved at 70°C, is defined as the quantity of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated at laboratory. UV filters

[0045] The composition according to the invention contains one or more lipophilic organic UV filters.

[0046] The composition may also comprise at least one additional UV filter chosen from hydrophilic organic UV filters, insoluble organic or inorganic UV filters and mineral pigments. Preferably, the filtering system will consist of organic UV filters, in particular hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filters, and preferably hydrophilic organic UV filters and lipophilic organic UV filters. Lipophilic organic UV filters

[0047] The lipophilic organic filters are in particular chosen from cinnamyl compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665;dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof.;

[0048] Preferably, the lipophilic organic filter(s) are chosen from salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.

[0049] Examples of lipophilic organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name and / or their chemical name.

[0050] Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL® MCX by the company DSM Nutritional Products; Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by the company Symrise,

[0051] Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL® 1789 by the company DSM Nutritional Products,

[0052] Salicyl compounds: Homosalate sold under the name “Parsol® HMS” by the company DSM Nutritional Products, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN® OS” by the company Symrise,

[0053] Compounds [3.[3-diphenylacrylate: Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL® N 539 T” by the company BASF,

[0054] Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL® M 40” by the company BASF, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate sold under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus” by BASF,

[0055] Benzylidene camphor compounds: 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX® 6300” by the company MERCK,

[0056] Phenyl benzotriazole compounds: Drometrizole Trisiloxane manufactured under the name “MEXORYL® XL” by the company NOVEAL,

[0057] Methylene bis-(hydroxphenyl benzotriazole) compounds: Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name “MIXXIM BB / 100 ®” by the company FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL,

[0058] Triazine compounds: - 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), with the INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “TINOSORB® S” by BASF, - Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL® T 150” by the company BASF, - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name “UVASORB® HEB” by the company 3V SIGMA, - symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US6,225,467, application WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symetrical Triazine De- rivatives » IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004),

[0059] Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN® MA” by the company Symrise,

[0060] Benzalmalonate compounds: Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL SLX ®” by the company HOFFMANN LA ROCHE.

[0061] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention is free of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate). By "free of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, an amount of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not contain ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

[0062] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention is free of octocrylene. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free of octocrylene" means an amount of octocrylene of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not contain octocrylene.

[0063] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention is free of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and / or octocrylene. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and / or octocrylene" means a total amount of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and octocrylene of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention contains neither ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate nor octocrylene.

[0064] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention is free of ethylhexyl salicylate. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free of ethylhexyl salicylate" means an amount of ethylhexyl salicylate of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not contain ethylhexyl salicylate.

[0065] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention is free of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and / or ethylhexyl salicylate. By "free of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and / or ethylhexyl salicylate”, is understood to mean, for the purposes of the present invention, a total quantity of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl salicylate of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention contains neither ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate nor ethylhexyl salicylate.

[0066] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention is free of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and / or octocrylene and / or ethylhexyl salicylate and / or homosalate. By "free of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and / or octocrylene and / or ethylhexyl salicylate and / or homosalate" is meant, for the purposes of the present invention, a total amount of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate and homosalate of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not contain ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate or homosalate.

[0067] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention is free of liquid lipophilic organic UV filters. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free of liquid lipophilic organic UV filters" means a total amount of liquid lipophilic organic UV filters of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not contain liquid lipophilic organic UV filters.

[0068] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one solid lipophilic organic UV filter.

[0069] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one solid lipophilic organic UV filter other than Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane. The composition may then comprise Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane or not comprise Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane.

[0070] According to a preferred embodiment, the quantity of solid lipophilic organic UV filters is greater than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 25% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 55% by weight, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 80% by weight of the total weight of the lipophilic organic filters present in the composition.

[0071] Preferably, all the lipophilic organic UV filters present in the composition are solid.

[0072] Examples of solid lipophilic organic UV filters include Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, le Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, le 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, le Drometrizole Trisiloxane, le Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, le Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, l’Ethylhexyl Triazone, le Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, de préférence le Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, le Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, le Drometrizole Trisiloxane, le Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, l’Ethylhexyl Triazone, et encore plus préférentiellement le Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, le Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, l’Ethylhexyl Triazone.

[0073] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one solid lipophilic organic UVA filter, preferably chosen from Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane and Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, and at least one solid lipophilic organic UVB filter, preferably chosen from Ethylhexyl Triazone and Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone.

[0074] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one mixed UV filter capable of absorbing solid lipophilic organic UVA and UVB rays, preferably chosen from Drometrizole Trisiloxane and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine.

[0075] The quantity of lipophilic organic UV filters in the composition in accordance with the invention may be between 5% and 25% by weight, preferably between 8% and 20% by weight, and even more preferably between 10% and 18% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Hydrophilic organic UV filters

[0076] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more hydrophilic organic UV filters.

[0077] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic organic UV filter” means a water-soluble organic UV filter or a water-dispersible organic UV filter.

[0078] Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of benzene l,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and its various salts, described in particular in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347. Mention may in particular be made of benzene l,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as that manufactured under the name “MEXORYL® SX” by the company NOVEAL.

[0079] These filters correspond to the following general formula (I): in which, F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a radical NH(Ri)3+ in which the radicals which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical, or a group Mn+, Mn+ denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn+ preferably denoting a metal cation chosen from Ca2+, Zn2+, Mg2+, Ba2+, Al3+ and Zr4+. It is understood that the compounds of formula (I) above can give rise to the "cis-trans" isomer around one or more double bond(s) and that all the isomers fall within the scope of the present invention.

[0080] Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters which can be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups with sulfonic groups such as those described in patent application EP-A-0669323.

[0081] They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in US patent 2,463,264 as well as in patent application EP-A-0669323.

[0082] The compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups in accordance with the invention correspond to the following general formula (II): in which, - Z represents an organic residue of valence (1 + n) comprising one or more double bonds placed in such a way that it completes the double bond system of at least two benzoazolyl groups as defined inside the brackets to form a fully conjugated set; - X' denotes S, O or NR6; - R1 denotes a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C[8] alkyl, a C1 to C4 alkoxy, a C5 to C15 aryl, a C2 to C[8] acyloxy, a SO3Y or COOY group; - the radicals R2, R3, R4 and R5, identical or different, denote a nitro group or a radical R1; - R6 denotes a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C4 alkyl or a C1 to C4 hydroxyalkyl; - Y denotes a hydrogen atom, Li, Na, K, NH4, l / 2Ca, l / 2Mg, 1 / 3A1 or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group by an organic nitrogenous base; - m is 0 or 1; - n is a number from 2 to 6; -1 is a number from 1 to 4; - provided that 1 + n does not exceed the value 6.

[0083] Among these compounds, the acid l,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylen-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate) or one of its salts of the following structure (III) sold in particular under the name “NEO HELIOPAN® AP” by the company Symrise:

[0084] Preferably, the water-soluble filter capable of absorbing UVA is benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as that manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SX" by NOVEAL.

[0085] The water-soluble organic UVB filters that can be used according to the present invention are in particular chosen from water-soluble cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzylidene camphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds; water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Examples of water-soluble organic UVB filters include phenyl benzimidazole compounds, such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid) sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX 232®” by MERCK.

[0087] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mixed water-soluble filter capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays.

[0088] When the water-soluble UV filter is of the sulfonic acid type, it is preferably associated with an organic base, such as an alkanolamine.

[0089] By "alkanolamine" is meant a C2-Ci0 compound comprising at least one amine function, primary, secondary or tertiary, and at least one alcohol function, generally primary. As suitable alkanolamine, mention may be made of 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol (INCI name: TROMETHAMINE) and triethanolamine.

[0090] Among the water-dispersible organic filters, the following filters may be mentioned.

[0091] Benzophenone compounds: 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-metha none (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (volume average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion,

[0092] Methylene bis-hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole compounds): Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure CnH2n+iO(C6HioO5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6Hi0O5) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, in particular the product sold under the trade name “TINOSORB® M” by the company BASF, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 pm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm,in the presence of at least one mono-(C8-C2o)alkyl-ester of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009 / 063392, in particular the product marketed under the name Tinosorb WPGL by the company BASF,

[0093] Triazine compounds: , - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine in its water-dispersible form with the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua by the company BASF, - symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 pm) which can be obtained for example using the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine marketed under the name TINOSORB® A2B by the company BASF and which is included in patent applications WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985,

[0094] Benzoxazole compounds: 2-[4-(l,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-l,3-benzoxazole, CAS number 904-39-2. Inorganic UV filters

[0095] The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one inorganic UV filter.

[0096] The inorganic UV filters that can be used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 μm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 μm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 μm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 μm. They are notably described in Annex VI updated on 09 / 22 / 2021 of the European Cosmetic Products Regulation number 1223 / 2009, but are not limited to this list.

[0097] They can be chosen in particular from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or their mixtures.

[0098] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are in particular described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies CRODA, TAYCA, and MERCK.

[0099] The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0100] Coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0101] The coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides: - with hydrated silica such as the product "MT-100WP" from the company TAYCA, - with silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from the company IKEDA, - with silica and alumina such as the products "MT-500SA®" and "MT-100SA®" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL™ AQ-N" from the company CRODA, - alumina such as the "TTO-55 (A)®" products from the ISHIHARA company, - alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products "MT-100TV®, MT-100Z®, MT-01®" from the company TAYCA, the product "Solaveil™ CT100" from the company CRODA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from the company MERCK, - silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100AQ®" from the company TAYCA, - alumina and aluminum laurate, - iron oxide and iron stearate, - zinc oxide and zinc stearate, - silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MTY-500SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SAS®" from the company TAYCA, - silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone, - silica and treated with a silicone, - alumina and treated with silicone such as the "TTO-55(S)®" products from the ISHIHARA company, - triethanolamine, - stearic acid such as the product "TTO-55 (C)®" from the company ISHIHARA, - sodium hexametaphosphate, - TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane, - TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane, - anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with polydimethylhydrogensiloxane, - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-200” from CRODA, - TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-12W” from CRODA, - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine, - TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.

[0102] Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents such as, for example, a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol ester such as TRLPPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters. More particularly, mention may be made of the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE with INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE or the product sold under the trade name “OPTISOL™ OTP-1” by the company CRODA.

[0103] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names "MT-500B" or "MT-600B®", by the company Evonik under the name "DEGUSSA P 25".

[0104] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: - those marketed under the name “Z-COTE®” by the company BASF; - those marketed under the name “NanoArc® Zinc Oxide” by the company Nanophase Technologies.

[0105] Coated zinc oxide pigments are for example: - ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenesiloxane; - CRODA’s “Solaveil™ CZ-100” dispersed in Cl2-15 alkyl benzonate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid); - those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA®" by the company Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent); - those marketed under the name "SPD-Z5®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).

[0106] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name RHODIGARD® W185 by the company Solvay.

[0107] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin.

[0108] When the composition in accordance with the invention comprises inorganic UV filters, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

[0109] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of inorganic filters.

[0110] By "free from inorganic UV filters" is meant, for the purposes of the present invention, a quantity of inorganic UV filters less than 2% by weight, of preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not comprise inorganic UV filters.

[0111] The UV filters may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, and better still from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Geminal surfactants

[0112] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one geminal surfactant.

[0113] The geminal surfactant(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (IV), as well as their stereoisomers: in which: R1 and R3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y designate, independently of each other, a group -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6 O)bZ where: - Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(0)(0M)2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, where M represents H or an alkali or alkaline-earth or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, - it goes from 0 to 15, - b ranges from 0 to 10, and - the sum of a + b ranges from 1 to 25; and - n ranges from 1 to 10.

[0114] According to a preferred embodiment, the geminate surfactant(s) of formula (IV) are such that each of the Ri-CO- and R3-CO- groups comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes a residue of coconut fatty acids (mainly comprising lauric acid and myristic acid).

[0115] According to another preferred embodiment, the geminate surfactant(s) of formula (IV) are such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has an average value ranging from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the -SO3M group where M is preferably an alkali metal ion such as an ion sodium.

[0116] In formula (B) as defined above, the spacer R2 advantageously consists of a linear C1-C3 alkylene chain, and preferably of an ethylene chain (CH2CH2).

[0117] Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.

[0118] A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name Sodium di-cocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure: O il .. coçovl Œ2 O provided that PEG represents the CH2CH2O group, and cocoyl represents the coconut fatty acid residue.

[0119] This surfactant has a molecular structure very close to that of ceramide-3.

[0120] According to a particular embodiment, the geminate surfactant of formula (IV) of the invention is used in a mixture with other surfactants.

[0121] According to a preferred embodiment, the geminate surfactant of formula (IV) of the invention is used in a mixture with a diester of C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably C14-C20 such as a stearate) and citric acid and glycerol.

[0122] Preferably, the geminate surfactant of formula (IV) of the invention is used in a mixture with (a) an ester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably a C14-C20 such as a stearate) and glyceryl, (b) a diester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably a C14-C20 such as a stearate) and citric acid and glycerol, and (c) a C10-C30 fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).

[0123] More preferably, the geminate surfactant of formula (IV) according to the invention represents from 10 to 20% by weight, and advantageously 15% by weight; the C6-C22 fatty acid ester of glyceryl represents from 30 to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight; the C6-C22 fatty acid diester of citric acid and glycerol represents from 10 to 20% by weight, advantageously 15% by weight; and the C10-C30 fatty alcohol represents from 30 to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the surfactant mixture containing the geminate surfactant.

[0124] Alternatively, the gemini surfactant of formula (IV) according to the invention may be used in a mixture with an anionic surfactant such as a lauric acid ester, sodium lauryl lactate. In this case, the gemini surfactant preferably represents from 30 to 50% by weight, and the anionic surfactant represents from 30 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0125] For example, the geminate surfactant can be used in a mixture with other surfactants in the form of products marketed by the company SASOL under the names CERALUTION®, and in particular the following products: • Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, • Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate. • Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabia, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI names).

[0126] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the geminal surfactant(s) of formula (IV) are in the form of a mixture of surfactants comprising from 3% to 50% by weight of geminal surfactants of formula (IV), preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, and even more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0127] The geminal surfactant(s) of formula (IV) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight and better still ranging from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight.

[0128] Anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactants chosen from fatty chain amino acids and their salts

[0129] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C10-C24, and even more preferably C16-C22, and their salts.

[0130] By "hydrocarbon chain" is meant an organic group consisting mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, in which one or more carbon atoms can be replaced by an oxygen atom or a nitrogen atom. As examples of C8-C30 hydrocarbon chains, mention may be made of C8-C30 acyl radicals.

[0131] Examples of amino acids include alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine.

[0132] More specifically, we can cite, as anionic carboxylate surfactants choisis parmi les sels d’acides aminés modifiés par au moins une chaîne grasse, les composés suivants : dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate, lauroyl [3-alaninate, lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate, myristoyl [3-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate and sodium myristoyl methyl [3-alaninate palmitoyl glycinate,sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, et leurs mélanges. ,

[0133] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from the compounds of the following structure (V): o <V) I ^(CH^n^COOM N XY in which: Z represents a hydrocarbon group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 16 to 22, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched; X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; n is equal to 0 or 1; Y is a group selected from a hydrogen atom, a group -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -ch2c6h5, -ch2c2h4oh, -ch2oh, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O M+; and M is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium ammonium, triethanolamine.

[0134] According to a preferred embodiment, in formula (V): Z represents a linear or branched C8-C24 alkyl or alkenyl group; X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; n is equal to 0; Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group or a -(CH2)2C(O)O M+ group; and M is a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, triethanolamine.

[0135] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates).

[0136] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) are chosen from acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, lauroyl glutamic, myristoyl glutamic, palmitoyl glutamic, stearoyl glutamic, behenoyl glutamic, olivoyl glutamic, cocoyl glutamic acids and the salts of these acids, in particular the alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, the alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or the ammonium salts of said acids.

[0137] Preferably, mention may be made, as salts of amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain, of glutamate salts, and in particular di-potassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate.

[0138] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) or one of its salts are chosen from lauroyl glutamic acids, cocoyl glutamic acids, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

[0139] More preferably, acyl glutamic acid or one of its salts is sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

[0140] Such compounds are marketed under the name AMISOFT by the company AJINOMOTO and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or under the name EUMULGIN SG by the company COGNIS.

[0141] Mention may also be made of triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate marketed under the name AMISOFT CT 12 by the company AJINOMOTO and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12 by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0142] As acyl glutamic acid salts, mention may also be made of sodium hydrogenated tallowoyl glutamate such as that sold under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate such as that sold under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS-21 by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0143] Mention may also be made of commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative or a salt of said derivative, such as, for example, the mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-22 marketed by AJINOMOTO.

[0144] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mono-sodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate) is used, such as that marketed by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference AMISOFT HS 11 PF.

[0145] The amino acid(s) modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] Semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain

[0147] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain, the alkyl radicals preferably being C16-C22-

[0148] For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" means polymers comprising a crystallizable part, pendant chain or sequence in the skeleton, and an amorphous part in the skeleton, and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition).

[0149] When the crystallizable part is a sequence of the polymer skeleton, this crystallizable sequence is of a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous sequences; the semi-crystalline polymer is in this case a sequenced polymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable sequence and at least one amorphous sequence.

[0150] By “sequence” we generally mean at least 5 identical repeating units. The crystallizable sequence(s) are then of a different chemical nature from the 5 amorphous sequence(s).

[0151] Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain of the composition of the invention has an average molecular mass (Mn) greater than or equal to approximately 2,000 g / mol, preferably approximately 2,000 to 800,000 g / mol, preferably approximately 3,000 to 500,000 g / mol, preferably approximately 4,000 to 150,000 g / mol, and preferably approximately 5,000 to 130,000 g / mol.

[0152] Apart from the crystallizable chains or sequences, the polymer sequences are amorphous.

[0153] For the purposes of the invention, the term "crystallizable chain or sequence" means a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below the melting temperature. A chain for the purposes of the invention is a group of atoms, pendant or lateral relative to the skeleton of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the skeleton, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the "crystallizable pendant chain" may be a chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.

[0154] Preferably, the polymeric backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the oil phase.

[0155] Thus, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain used in the composition of the invention is generally introduced into the oily phase of the composition.

[0156] Preferably, the crystallizable sequences or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain represent at least approximately 30% by weight and preferably at least approximately 40% by weight relative to the total weight of each polymer.

[0157] The semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable sequences used according to the invention are sequenced or multi-sequenced polymers. They can be obtained by polymerization of monomers with reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers with crystallizable side chains, they are advantageously in random or statistical form.

[0158] The semi-crystalline polymers of the invention may be of synthetic origin. Furthermore, they do not comprise a polysaccharide backbone.

[0159] The semi-crystalline polymers of the composition of the invention may or may not be partially crosslinked. This may then be a chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a multifunctional monomer during polymerization. It may also be a physical crosslinking which may then be due either to the establishment of hydrogen or dipolar bonds between groups carried by the polymer such as dipolar interactions between carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being in small quantity and carried by the skeleton of the polymer; or to a phase separation between the crystallizable sequences and the amorphous sequences, carried by the polymer.

[0160] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain of the composition according to the invention are non-crosslinked.

[0161] As an example of semi-crystalline polymers according to the invention containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain, mention may be made of those resulting from the polymerization of one or more saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0162] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers with a crystallizable side chain are homopolymers of alkyl(meth)acrylate, or copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer.

[0163] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is derived from a monomer with a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates, and even more particularly poly(stearyl acrylate) or poly(behenyl acrylate).

[0164] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0165] According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is chosen from homopolymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates and from copolymers obtained by copolymerization of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably N-vinylpyrrolidone or a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0166] As a particular example of a semi-crystalline polymer that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of homopolymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, preferably from stearyl acrylates and behenyl acrylates, in particular polymers having the INCI name Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate such as the Tego® SP products from the company EVONIK, in particular the product TEGO CARE SP 13-1 which is a stearyl polyacrylate or the product TEGO CARE SP 13-6 which is a behenyl polymer (behenyl polyacrylate).

[0167] As a particular example of a semi-crystalline polymer that can be used in the composition, mention may also be made of copolymers obtained by copolymerization of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, in particular the copolymers described in applications FR 3 073 405 and FR 3 073 406, and preferably the copolymers obtained by copolymerization of at least one monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates, preferably from behenyl acrylates, stearyl acrylates, and mixtures thereof, with a hydrophilic monomer such as hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate and N-vinylpyrrolidone and preferably hydroxyethyl acrylate.

[0168] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is a behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, a stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer and / or one of their mixtures, and in particular the polymer with the INCI name: Poly C12-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer, notably marketed under the name Tego SP Senstar by the EVONIK Company.

[0169] According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain are chosen from a polystearyl acrylate, a polybehenyl acrylate, a copolymer of behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, a copolymer of stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and one of their mixtures, in particular chosen from the polymer with INCI name: Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, the copolymer with INCI name Cl2-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer, and their mixtures, more particularly the polymer with INCI name: Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate.

[0170] According to a more preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is a polymer with the INCI name: Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate.

[0171] The semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain may be present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.2 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight. Polyols

[0172] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the present invention comprises one or more polyols comprising at least three hydroxy functions.

[0173] By "polyol comprising at least three hydroxy functions" according to the invention, is meant a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 50 carbon atoms, better still from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and even more preferentially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and carrying at least three hydroxy groups. Preferably, the polyols used in the present invention have an average molecular mass less than or equal to 1000 g / mol, preferably in the range from 85 to 500 g / mol.

[0174] Advantageously, the polyol comprising at least three hydroxy functions is a natural or synthetic polyol, and has a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0175] The polyol comprising at least three hydroxy functions is advantageously chosen from glycerin and derivatives thereof, and glycols comprising at least three hydroxy functions and derivatives thereof.

[0176] The polyol comprising at least three hydroxy functions is preferably chosen from glycerin (or glycerol), diglycerin (or diglycerol), sugars such as sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0177] Preferably, the polyol comprising at least three hydroxy functions is glycerin.

[0178] The polyol(s) comprising at least three hydroxy functions are present in the composition of the invention in a content within the range of 0.05% to 20% by weight, better still 0.1 to 15% by weight, and preferably 1 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. C1-C4 monoalkanol

[0179] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one C1-C4 monoalkanol.

[0180] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “mono-C1-C4 alkanol” means any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and a single hydroxyl (OH) function.

[0181] The C1-C4 monoalkanol(s) present in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol or mixtures thereof. Ethanol will be chosen more particularly.

[0182] When they are present in the composition in accordance with the invention, their concentration is generally between 0.2 and 90% by weight, preferably from 2 to 70% by weight, and even more preferably from 8% to 60% by weight, better still from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least 8% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of C1-C4 mono-alkanols, in particular ethanol. Galenic

[0184] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions in accordance with the invention are fluid and their viscosity at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is less than or equal to 150 mPa.s, preferably less than or equal to 100 mPa.s, even more preferably less than or equal to 35 mPa.s, and better still less than or equal to 30 mPa.s.

[0185] According to a preferred embodiment, the viscosity at room temperature and atmospheric pressure of the compositions in accordance with the invention is between 10 mPa.s and 35 mPa.s.

[0186] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion.

[0187] By "emulsion" is meant any macroscopically homogeneous, kinetically stable composition comprising at least two phases which are immiscible with each other; one being the continuous dispersing phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. The two phases are generally kinetically stabilized by at least one emulsifying system which may comprise at least one emulsifying surfactant.

[0188] A distinction is made between so-called "direct" oil-in-water emulsions consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and a discontinuous oily dispersed phase and so-called "inverse" water-in-oil emulsions consisting of a continuous oily dispersing phase and a discontinuous aqueous dispersed phase. There are also multiple emulsions such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsions.

[0189] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions in accordance with the invention are direct emulsions.

[0190] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).

[0191] Examples of non-ionic W / O emulsifying surfactants that may be mentioned include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Lauryl-methicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning; Cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09® by the company Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added, which, advantageously, may be chosen from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters.

[0192] Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugars.

[0193] As polyol alkyl esters, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxy stearate such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI.

[0194] As glycerol and / or sorbitan esters, mention may be made, for example, of polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GI 34® by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

[0195] For H / W emulsions, examples of non-ionic emulsifying surfactants that may be mentioned are polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) fatty acid and glycerol esters such as the polyethylene glycol and stearic acid ester with the INCI name PEG-100 STEARATE marketed under the name Myrj SIOO-PA-(SG) by the company CRODA; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) fatty acid esters, optionally in combination with a fatty acid and glycerol ester such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate;fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside marketed for example by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearylglucoside optionally in a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name Montanov 68® by Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside marketed under the name Montanov 202® by Seppic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-composition; emulsifying agent, as described for example in WO-A-92 / 06778.

[0196] As anionic surfactants for producing H / W emulsions, mention may also be made of hydrophobic modified polysaccharides, in particular inulins modified by hydrophobic chains such as alkylcarbamate groups, in particular C8-C18 alkyl carbamate, and more particularly laurylcarbamate.

[0197] As an example of these compounds, we can notably cite the product sold under the name INUTEC SL1 by the company CREACHEM. Fat phase

[0198] The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0199] The fatty phase may consist of all the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields; it may in particular comprise at least one oil. The fatty phase further comprises the lipophilic filter(s) present in the composition according to the invention.

[0200] Oil is understood to mean any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0201] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0202] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0203] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon oil" means any oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may in particular contain one or more ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0204] The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0205] As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of: (i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol of which the fatty acids may have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, and musk rose; or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéa-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; (ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof; (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is > 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by the company WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN®" by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 226®" by the company ISP, lanolate isopropyl, hexyl laurate, dii-isopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate,diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as C12-C13 linear dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as C14-C15 linear dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates; , (v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; (vi) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis; and their mixtures.

[0206] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0207] As volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0208] Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and different by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil, and mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 of the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97®, as well as their mixtures.

[0209] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the company SHELL, may also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

[0210] The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates.

[0211] Examples of volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned are silicone oils volatile linear or cyclic silicones, in particular those having a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 106 m2 / s), and in particular having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0212] Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils such as: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane.

[0213] Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used.

[0214] The fatty phase according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or dissolved in the oil, other fatty substances.

[0215] Another fatty substance which may be present in the oily phase may be, for example: - a fatty acid such as fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; preferably, higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; - a wax chosen from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Camauba or Candellila wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; - a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol), - a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, - and their mixtures.

[0216] Preferably, the overall fatty phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, including the lipophilic filters, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0217] The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one phase aqueous.

[0218] The aqueous phase contains water, and optionally other organic solvents soluble or miscible in water.

[0219] An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, Saint Gervais Mont Blanc water, or Vichy water, or a floral water.

[0220] Water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include C1-C4 monoalcohols and polyols as described above, as well as diols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0221] According to a particular form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0222] According to a particular embodiment, the pH of the composition in accordance with the invention is between 6.5 and 8. Preferably, the pH of the composition in accordance with the invention is between 6.8 and 7.7. Even more preferably, the pH of the composition in accordance with the invention is between 7 and 7.6.

[0223] The measurement of the pH of the composition in accordance with the invention can be carried out using a Mettler Toledo MPC227, SevenEasy pH or SevenGo SG2 pH meter, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure. Cosmetic active ingredients

[0224] The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[0225] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates, polyglycerin-3; natural extracts; vitamins and their derivatives (particularly esters), as well as mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids and their derivatives; retinoids; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; tightening agents; agents acting on microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.

[0226] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the amount of cosmetic active ingredient depending on the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0227] The composition of the present invention may also comprise adjuvants. or conventional cosmetic additives, e.g., fragrances, chelating agents (e.g., tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., chlorphenesin and phenoxy ethanol) and bactericides, additional surfactants, co-emulsifiers and / or thickeners (such as acryloyldimethyltaurate homopolymer or acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, hydroxypropyl guar), pH regulators (e.g., triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), fillers (e.g., aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and polymethylsisesquioxane) and mixtures thereof.

[0228] A person skilled in the art can select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to harm the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Examples

[0229] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting. In these examples, the quantities of the ingredients in the compositions are given in % by weight of raw materials or active materials relative to the total weight of the composition. Viscosity assessment protocol

[0230] The viscosity is assessed using a Rheomat RM200 viscometer (Lamy company) at 25°C. We use an MsR-2 spindle, due to the fluid texture of the formula. We calibrate the viscometer, then introduce the spindle into the product and let it rotate at 200 rpm for 10 minutes. We take the viscosity measurement at 10 minutes.

[0231] Protocol for evaluating the stability of the compositions of the invention

[0232] Each composition is subjected to two separate stability tests: On the one hand, each composition is placed in an oven at 55°C for a week in 100 ml bottles. After a week, we take out the compositions and analyze their appearance macroscopically and microscopically. On the other hand, each composition is placed in an oven at 45°C for a week in 100 ml bottles. After a month, we take out the compositions and analyze their appearance macroscopically and microscopically. Compositions 1 to 3

[0233] The following compositions are prepared (quantities in raw materials). [Tables 1] Phase Composition 1 (invention) 2 (comparatif) 3 (comparatif ) Al BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) DISODIUM ETHYLENE DL COCAMIDE PEG-15 DISULFATE (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE (CERALUTION H de SASOL) 2,50 2,50 2,50 Al BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENO L METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE (TINOSORB S de BASF) 4,00 4,00 4,00 Al BUTYL METHOXYDIBEN-ZOYLMETHANE (PARSOL 1789 de DSM NU-TRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 4,00 4,00 4,00 Al C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE 4,50 4,50 4,50 Al CETYL ALCOHOL 0,50 0,50 0,50 Al DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 2,00 2,00 2,00 Al ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE (UVINUL T150 de BASF) 4,00 4,00 4,00 Al ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 10,00 10,00 10,00 Al POLY C10-C30 ALKYL ACRYLATE (TEGO SP 13-1 de EVONIK) 0,50 0,50 0,50 A2 VITAMINE(S) 0,25 0,25 0,25 B ACTIF(S) 0,10 0,10 0,10 B WATER / AQUA 47,00 47,15 47,15 B CONSERVATEUR(S) 0,50 0,50 0,50 B GLYCERIN 4,00 4,00 4,00 B INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE - 0,15 (INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) B PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID (EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 2.00 2.00 2.00 B SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) 0.15 - - B TRIETHANOLAMINE 1.70 1.70 1.70 B CHELATING AGENT(S) 0.30 0.30 0.30 C ACRYLATES COPOLYMER (CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 POLYMER from LUBRIZOL) 2.00 2.00 2.00 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 10.00 10.00 10.00 Preparation method

[0234] Add the raw materials of phase Al and heat to 70°C. Once the mixture is homogeneous, turn off the heat and add phase A2. In the appendix, add the raw materials from phase B and heat to 60°C. Once the mixture is homogeneous, transfer phase B into phase A while stirring. Start cooling. Once the mixture has reached 30°C, add phase C, then phase D. Continue stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Results obtained

[0235] The results obtained are as follows. [Tables 2] Composition 1 (invention) 2 (comparative) 3 (comparative) Initial macroscopic appearance at temperature T = 25 °C Fluid, shiny Fluid, shiny Fluid, shiny Viscosity (mPa.s) at 10 minutes 25 mPa.s 26 mPa.s 26 mPa.s Stability 1 week at 55 °C Macroscopy: No water base, homogeneous and fluid formula Microscopy: Fine, regular, tight emulsion, clear edges. Isotropic Macroscopy: Water base >1 cm and oil drops on the surface Microscopy: Coarse, irregular, loose emulsion, loose and receding edges. Isotropic Macroscopy: Water base >1 cm Microscopy: Medium, irregular, loose emulsion, loose and receding edges. Isotropic Stability 1 month at 45°C Macroscopy: No water base, homogeneous and fluid formula Microscopy: Fine, regular, tight emulsion, clean edges. Isotropic Macroscopy: Water base >1cm and oil drops on the surface Microscopy: Coarse, irregular, loose emulsion, loose and slipping edges.Isotropic Macroscopy: Water base >1cm Microscopy: Medium, irregular, loose emulsion, loose and receding edges. Isotropic.

[0236] These results show that composition 1 in accordance with the invention which contains a surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts (ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) has greater stability than comparative composition 2 in which this surfactant has been replaced by another surfactant, inulin lauryl carbamate (INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM), and than comparative composition 3 which does not contain such a surfactant.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising: (a) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter; (b) at least one geminate surfactant chosen from the compounds of formula (IV), as well as their stereoisomers: O o (IV) 1 ^4 to IR <T-'N R.Jn Y X dans laquelle : Ri et R3 désignent, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, un radical alkyle ayant de 1 à 25 atomes de carbone ; R2 désigne un espaceur constitué d'une chaîne alkylène linéaire ou ramifiée ayant de 1 à 12 atomes de carbone ; X et Y désignent, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, un groupement -(C2H ,0).-^3^0)^ where: - Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-C00M, -S03M, -P(0)(0M)2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, where M represents H or an alkali or alkaline-earth or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, - a ranges from 0 to 15, - b ranges from 0 to 10, and - the sum of a + b ranges from 1 to 25; and - n ranges from 1 to 10; and (c) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30, preferably C16-C22, hydrocarbon chain, and their salts.

2. Composition according to claim 1 free of ethylhexyl methoxy-cinnamate (octinoxate).

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2 free from liquid lipophilic organic UV filters.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3 comprising at least one solid lipophilic organic UV filter.

5. Composition according to claim 4 in which the solid lipophilic organic UV filter(s) are chosen from Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Me-thoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, preferably Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Di-thylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, and even more preferably Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 comprising at least one solid lipophilic organic UVA filter, preferably chosen from Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane and Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, and at least one solid lipophilic organic UVB filter, preferably chosen from Ethylhexyl Triazone and Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 comprising at least one mixed UV filter capable of absorbing solid lipophilic organic UVA and UVB rays, preferably chosen from Drometrizole Trisiloxane and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in which the quantity of solid lipophilic organic UV filters is greater than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 25% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 55% by weight, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 80% by weight of the total weight of the lipophilic organic filters present in the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in which the lipophilic organic UV filter(s) present in the composition are solid.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 comprising at least one solid lipophilic organic UV filter other than Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 comprising at least one hydrophilic organic UV filter.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 in which, for the geminate surfactant of formula (IV), each of the RrCO- and R3-CO- groups comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

13. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 in

14.

15.

16.

17.

18.

19. which, for the geminal surfactant of formula (IV), each of the groups RrCO- and R3-CO- denotes a coconut fatty acid residue. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 in which, for the geminal surfactant of formula (IV), for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has an average value ranging from 10 to 20. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 in which, for the geminal surfactant of formula (IV), Z is the group -SO3M where M is an alkali ion such as a sodium ion. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 in which, for the geminal surfactant of formula (IV), n is equal to 1. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 in which the surfactant of formula (IV) has the following structure: O H xOG-15)™S02Na —C—N" CH2 CIC eoeoyl — 5) — O A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17 wherein the geminate surfactant is mixed with (a) a C6-C22 fatty acid ester of glyceryl, (b) a C6-C22 fatty acid diester of citric acid and glycerol, and (c) a C10-C30 fatty alcohol. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18 in which the carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from the compounds of the following structure (V): Z represents a C8-C30, preferably C16-C22, linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group; X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; n is equal to 0 or 1; Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group or a -(CH2)2C(O)O M+ group; and M is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium ammonium, triethanolamine.

20. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19 in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.