MAKE-UP COMPOSITION COMPRISING A NATURAL RESIN, A PARTICULAR POLYESTER AND VOLATILE SOLVENTS AND METHOD

Abstract

Title: MAKE-UP COMPOSITION COMPRISING A NATURAL RESIN, A PARTICULAR POLYESTER AND VOLATILE SOLVENTS AND METHOD The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising:- at least one natural resin,- at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 (ii) at least one dimer acid, and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty monoacid,- at least one volatile solvent. It also relates to a makeup process, in which this composition is applied to said keratin materials.

Description

Title of the invention: MAKE-UP COMPOSITION COMPRISING A NATURAL RESIN, A PARTICULAR POLYESTER AND VOLATILE SOLVENTS AND METHOD

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for making up, in particular for the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising at least one natural resin, at least one polyester obtained by reaction of a polyglycerol-3, a dimer acid and a C8-C30 monoacid, at least one volatile solvent, as well as a make-up method using it.

[0002] Many cosmetic makeup compositions containing coloring materials such as foundations, concealers, lipsticks, lip glosses, have been developed to improve hold and non-transfer properties.

[0003] Improving the hold of the compositions is achieved by compositions forming a film after application. Such compositions generally contain volatile solvents which evaporate on contact with the skin or lips, leaving a layer comprising waxes and / or film-forming polymers, pigments and fillers. The film-forming polymers are synthetic polymers, often silicone or acrylic. Thus, mention may be made of the use of silicone resins, such as, for example, resins of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane type (INCI name) or even comprising silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates / polytrime-thylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer (INCI name). Acrylic polymers of the Acrylic Acid / Isobutyl Acrylate / Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer type are also used.However, these compositions are often considered less comfortable, or even uncomfortable, from a sensory point of view for consumers. On the other hand, the compositions obtained are very often satiny or even matte.

[0004] Furthermore, in recent years, consumers have become more demanding about the composition of their cosmetic products and are seeking in particular to minimize the content of silicone compounds, or even to do without them. In return, they are seeking to use products with a higher content of natural or naturally derived ingredients, ingredients whose environmental impact is minimized and / or ingredients that are compatible with many packagings.

[0005] The difficulty remains, however, in reconciling these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance to which they have become accustomed with the products they already use, which notably include silicone film-forming polymers.

[0006] We are therefore still looking for high-performance, comfortable makeup compositions, giving a shiny deposit, also having good hold, without it being necessary to use the film-forming polymers conventionally used, in particular silicone polymers, and which are more respectful of the environment, for example by using more natural or naturally derived compounds.

[0007] These problems and others are solved by the present invention which relates to a cosmetic composition for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one natural resin, - at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 (ii) at least one dimer acid, and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty monoacid, - at least one volatile solvent.

[0008] The present invention also relates to a makeup process in which the aforementioned cosmetic composition is applied to human keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips.

[0009] The composition according to the invention has the advantage of being stable over time, easy to apply, without dewetting upon application or blotting. The deposit obtained is also precise, homogeneous, non-stringy, with little or no stickiness. The deposit does not migrate into wrinkles and fine lines, particularly around the lips.

[0010] The resulting deposit is shiny, with good hold. It is also comfortable, without leaving a feeling of dryness or tightness.

[0011] The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a liquid composition.

[0012] By “liquid composition” is meant any composition which has one or more of the following characteristics:

[0013] i) flows under its own weight at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 .105 Pa);

[0014] ii) is not solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and of which it is possible to measure a viscosity or its consistency characterized by its hardness;

[0015] iii) does not have any particular shape such as that which can be obtained by hot pouring into a mold or container of a given shape.

[0016] Such compositions can therefore be found in particular in fluid, creamy, pasty or gel form. Protocol for viscosity measurement

[0017] The viscosity measurement is generally carried out at 25°C, using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscosimeter equipped with a spindle No. 2, No. 3 or No. 4, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle within the composition (time at the end of which a stabilization of the viscosity and the rotation speed of the spindle is observed), at a speed of 200 revolutions / min (rpm).

[0018] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may have a viscosity at 25°C of between 0.1 and 25 Pa.s, preferably of between 0.2 and 20 Pa.s. Preferably, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention may be of between 0.2 and 10 Pa.s.

[0019] In particular, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention may be between 0.1 Pa.s (mobile 2) and 25 Pa.s (mobile 4), preferably between 0.2 Pa.s (mobile 2) and 20 Pa.s (mobile 4), and better still between 0.2 Pa.s (mobile 2) and 10 Pa.s (mobile 4).

[0020] POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYESTER / DIMER ACID / FATTY MONO ACID

[0021] The composition according to the invention at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids.

[0022] By "polyester" is meant any polymer obtained by condensation reaction of polycarboxylic acids with alcohols or glycols. Its macromolecular skeleton contains the repetition of its ester function. The ester function designates a characteristic group formed by an atom linked simultaneously to an oxygen atom by a double bond and to an alkoxy group. When the linked atom is a carbon atom, we speak of a carboxylic ester whose general formula is R-COO-R'.

[0023] By "polyglycerol-3" is meant triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; said polyglycerols corresponding to the formula (I) H[-O-Gly]n-OH, in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after elimination of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10. And preferably triglycerol is the majority in said mixture.

[0024] The polyesters of the invention are described as well as their synthesis in patent applications US 2021 / 0259945, US 2021 / 0259946 and US 2021 / 0259930 in the name of the company Nouryon.

[0025] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product.

[0026] By "substantially non-sequential reaction product" is meant the product obtained by a substantially non-sequential reaction of the reactant components (i)-(iü).

[0027] By "completely non-sequential reaction of the reactant components (i)-(iii)" is meant that the total contents of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted are added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0028] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction, i.e., the reaction is completely non-sequential, and the polymer is a completely non-sequential reaction product of the components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70-100%, or 75-100%, or 80-100%, or 85-100%, or 90-100%, or 95-100%, or 97-100% of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0029] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process that involves introducing all of the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully random addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3. Polyglycerol-3

[0030] Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3-OH in which Gly denotes a glycerol residue after elimination of two hydroxyl groups.

[0031] A polyglycerol-3 according to the invention in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol comprises polyglycerols which can be any oligocondensation product of glycerol. They preferably correspond to formula (I): H[-O-Gly-]n-OH, in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

[0032] Generally, most Gly groups are of the formula: -CH2-CHOH-CH2-, although residues involving etherification at secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are considered to be within the scope of "Gly" and, therefore, may also be present.

[0033] Examples of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form include diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol and mixtures thereof. In particular, preferred polyglycerols are those of formula (I) in which n is in particular from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5 and in particular 2, 3 or 4, or mixtures of polyglycerols in these ranges.

[0034] Examples of particularly suitable polyglycerol-3 include a mixture of polyglycerols having the following distribution wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of polyglycerol-3 as a mixture. - glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight, preferably 0 to 20% by weight, most preferably 0 to 15% by weight; - diglycerol: 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, most preferably 20 to 32% by weight; - triglycerol: 10 to 65% by weight, preferably 15 to 60% by weight, most preferably 18 to 55% by weight; - tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, most preferably 8 to 20% by weight; - pentaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, most preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - hexaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, most preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - heptaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, most preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - octaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, most preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - nonaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, most preferably 0 to 2% by weight; - decaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, most preferably 0 to 2% by weight.

[0035] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprises the following distribution of polyglycerols: Glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight; Diglycerol: 15 to 40% by weight; Triglycerol: 10 to 55% by weight; Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight; Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0036] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in blend form is composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of poly-glycerol-3 as a mixture.

[0037] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 is composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol; wherein all percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0038] A particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0039] Analysis of such a polyglycerol-3 composition may be performed to determine its median or "average" polyglycerol number. The above examples of polyglycerols with narrow and broad distributions may also be referred to as polyglycerol-3, as it is the integer closest to the mean and / or median. Dimer acid

[0040] The dimer acid may be any dicarboxylic acid having at least 4 carbon atoms. They may be linear or branched, such as, for example, dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid, and their anhydrides.

[0041] Dimeric fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, these are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids which are obtained by a catalyzed dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0042] For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, reference is made to the publication "The Dimer Acids: The Chemical and physical properties, reactions and applications", Ed. EC Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0043] The dicarboxylic acids may also contain, to a lesser extent, tri- and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture must not exceed an average molar value of 2.4.

[0044] Preferred dimer acids are typically derived from triglycerides rich in C18 ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce C18 unsaturated monobasic fatty acids. The starting materials can be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources such as flaxseed, soybean, pumpkin, and walnut can be used. The target monobasic acids used in the reaction are rich in the oleic and linoleic acid forms described in list of fatty acids contained below. Dimerization primarily results in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After reaction, the product may be retained as a reaction product mixture or it may be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions. In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) of dimeric acid (C36 diacid) but also produces C54 trimeric acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).

[0045] In one case, a standard dimer acid commercially available from Croda, Pripol 1025®, which contains 72% by weight dimer and 19% by weight trimer acid, is used.

[0046] In another case, a standard hydrogenated dimer acid from Oleon, Radiacid 0960®, is used, which contains 87% by weight of dimer and 10% by weight of trimer acid. In both cases, the polymer as described is characterized by a higher molecular weight, a more hydrophobic character and a higher viscosity than those which can be provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of trimer acid further improves the molecular weight and performance of these polymers.

[0047] In one embodiment, the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0048] In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated dimer acid comprising hydrogenated dimerized C18 fatty acids, which hydrogenated dimer acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated C18 fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.

[0049] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a trimer acid content ranging from about 5 to 25% by weight, based on a total weight of hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0050] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight, but at most 95% by weight, or more preferably at most 90% by weight, or more preferably at most 85% by weight) of hydrogenated dimer acid (C36 diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight). Mono fatty acid

[0051] The C8-C30 monofatty acids may include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oils, etc., but these contain both lower and higher MW chains. Useful monofatty acids may be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated, and aromatic materials with acidity provided by carboxylic acid moieties.

[0052] Acids suitable for the invention include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), undecylic acid (C11), lauric acid (C12), tridecylic acid (C13), myristic acid (C14), pentadecylic acid (C15), palmitic acid (C16), margaric acid (C17), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), nonadecylic acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0053] Comparison of stearic and isostearic acids shows that branching leads to a high melting point and results in a low viscosity at room temperature for isostearic acid, compared to a solid material for stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful in handling raw materials and also in allowing esters made with this acid to retain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids often contain a single methyl branch along the linear carbon chain and are produced in nature by microbial action. Isotearic acid is available as a reaction by-product in the creation of the dimer acid described above.

[0054] Another way to obtain a liquid product is to use linear and branched unsaturated monofatty acids. These unsaturated acids may include palmitoyl acid (C16:1), vaccenic acid (C18:1), oleic acid (C18:1), elaidic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), linolelaidic acid (C18:2), alpha-linolenic acid (C18:3), alpha-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paullinic acid (C20:1), gondoic acid (C20:1), dihomo-y linolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:1), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), cervonic acid (C22:6) and nervonic acid (C24:1). As is well known to those skilled in the art, the designation means that the length of the carbon chain is X carbon atoms; and there are Y number of double bonds in the chain.

[0055] In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.

[0056] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or wholly non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case based on the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and iii) isostearic acid.

[0057] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully random addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0058] In one embodiment, it is preferable to have a total degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl moieties (total esterification) of 24% to 74% and a degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl moieties by a dimer acid alone (esterification with a dimer acid) of 20% to 40%. More importantly, the degree of esterification by the end-cap units (esterification with a monoacid) is also defined in this specification and it is important to maintain the esterification with a monoacid of 4 to 40%.

[0059] It is preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a dimer acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0060] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 33% to 48% with an esterification with a dimer acid of 20% to 28% and an esterification with a monoacid between 13% and 20%.

[0061] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 24% to 74% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of 20% to 40% and an esterification with a monoacid between 4% and 40%.

[0062] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0063] It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 20% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 20%.

[0064] It is also even more preferred to have also most preferred a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0065] In one embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of fatty acid.

[0066] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0067] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0068] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a ratio molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0069] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0070] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0071] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0072] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0073] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0074] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 0.67 mole of isostearic acid.

[0075] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0076] By adjusting the molar ratio of fatty acid termination and balancing the amount of polyglycerol-3 and dimer acid, it is also possible to control the degree of dimer-polyglycerol acid extension and termination so that crosslinking, for example, via the acid trimer, leads to much higher viscosities.

[0077] The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be > 50,000 mPa.s and less than 5,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0078] In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 75,000 mPa.s and < 2,500,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0079] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0080] In a most preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 1,000,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0081] Viscosity is measured using an MCR3O2® rheometer from Anton Paar Inc. Twin rough or smooth flat plates of 50 mm diameter were used, re covered with a polymer sample, adjusted to a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans were performed. The polyesters of the invention exhibit Newtonian behavior and therefore have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. In addition, the polymers of this disclosure have demonstrated a reduced viscosity with temperature. Thus, viscosity measurements are reported at a precisely controlled temperature and generally as a shear rate of 1. Values ​​are reported in mPa.s.

[0082] The polyesters of the invention are characterized by weight-average molecular masses > 2500 Da and < 1,000,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0083] The GPC column used for these tests consisted of: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous phase of Tetrahydrofuran (THF) was used and injected at 0.35 ml / min, column oven maintained at 40°C; a 50 pL injection and a Wyatt Ri refractive index detector. The calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrene intended to be monodisperse. The narrow range polystyrene GPC calibration standards were prepared in mobile phase and had maximum molecular weights of 1,290,000 Da; 560,000 Da; 65,500 Da; 28,500 Da; 10,100 Da; 1,680 Da; 580 Da and 208 Da. From standard methodologies, the weight and number average molecular mass are automatically calculated by standard GPC software.

[0084] In a preferred embodiment, the described polyesters have a weight average molecular weight > 4,000 Da and < 250,000 Da as measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In a most preferred embodiment, the described polymers have a weight average molecular weight > 5,000 Da and < 150,000 Da as measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0085] In yet another embodiment, the polyester of the invention has a combination of weight average molecular weight > 5000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards and viscosity at 25°C > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s.

[0086] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case based on the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case based on the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid; wherein the polymer has a mass combination weight average molecular weight > 5,000 Da and < 15,000 Da measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards and viscosity of the neat polymer > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C; and wherein the copolymer is also characterized by total esterification of about 40%, esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 27% and esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0087] In practice, since the raw ingredients contain a range of polyglycerol units and a range of dimer and trimer acid contents, the above numbers can be adjusted using the actual (not theoretical) hydroxyl moieties and carboxylic acid moieties as determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR and liquid chromatography. The above esterification ranges are based on the ideal structure of polyglycerol-3 and the C36 dimer acid. The actual ranges may therefore be slightly different from the values ​​given above and can be calculated based on these analytical values.

[0088] It is more convenient to define the extent of polymerization by the final acid number. The initial acid values, in light of the distribution of polyglycerol, monoacid and polyacid moieties present, can be reliably calculated using the actual acid value determined by the raw ingredient used.

[0089] For an example, the initial total acid number ("AV" which is commonly defined as mg KOH / g total reactant) is 135 AV. This includes 68 AV for the dimer acid and 67 AV for isostearic acid for a preferred embodiment containing 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid. All of the preferred ratio embodiments described above have a corresponding initial AV that can be calculated. When during the polymerization reaction the AV units are reduced, this ratio gives the percent conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactant acid fractions to the final residual acid fractions.

[0090] Thus, the reaction completion rate is defined by (1 - final AV) / initial AV.

[0091] In one embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of 0.1 to <25 mg KOH / g polymer.

[0092] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of 0.1 to < 10 mg KOH / g polymer.

[0093] In a most preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of 0.1 to <5 mg KOH / g polymer.

[0094] The reaction completion rate being defined by the equation 1- AV final / AV initial, the reaction completion rate of such mixtures in final polymer is > 80%.

[0095] In a preferred embodiment, the reaction completion rate of such blends to final polymer is > 90%.

[0096] In a most preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures to the final polymer is > 95%.

[0097] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a reaction product of a polyglycerol-3, a C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of document US 2021 / 0259945.

[0098] According to a preferred variant of the invention, the composition comprises at least one oily solution comprising: (a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and (b) at least one non-volatile oil.

[0099] Said non-volatile oil(s) may be chosen from those which will be described later.

[0100] According to an advantageous embodiment, the oily solution comprises, as non-volatile oil(s), at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0101] The polyester oil solution can be obtained by mixing the polyester with the non-volatile oil or oils at about 80-100°C. The whole is then further cooled to 50-70°C to be removed from the reactor and stored.

[0102] Said oily polyester solution preferably contains the polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0103] According to a preferred embodiment, the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid relative to the total weight of the oily solution in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oily mixture) of document US 2021 / 0259945.

[0104] According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the composition comprises an oily solution comprising: a) a polyester obtained by reaction (i) a polyglycerol-3, and (ii) a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) isostearic acid; the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having the INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

[0105] Such an oily solution is marketed under the name Solamaze Natural® by the company Nouryon comprising 60% by weight of active polyester material and 40% by weight of a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride relative to the total weight of the oily solution.

[0106] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of active polyester material varies from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. NATURAL RESIN

[0107] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one natural resin.

[0108] A resin is generally defined as a solid, highly viscous or liquid substance, of plant or synthetic origin. Resins have several specific characteristics, such as:

[0109] - the ability to harden permanently, for example for synthetics under the influence of temperature and for natural ones under the influence of oxygen;

[0110] - their insolubility in water and especially their good sticky and adhesive properties.

[0111] The ISO4618:2014(fr) standard defines a resin as being a “generally amorphous macromolecular product, with a consistency ranging from solid to liquid state”.

[0112] Natural resins are almost exclusively of plant origin (fossil or harvested), and are secreted and then exuded from plants for roles of defense, protection and communication within their ecosystem. Shellack of animal origin, secreted by the insect Coccus lacca, is an exception.

[0113] By "natural resin", and in particular "plant resin", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any substance comprising a minimum content of terpene compounds, that is to say at least 30% by weight of terpene compounds on the total weight of the substance (or material) considered, as chemically defined below, said substance being derived directly or indirectly, from the secretion and exudation, mainly by plants (more rarely by animals), of a substance for roles of defense, protection and communication with their ecosystem.

[0114] Advantageously, the natural resin according to the invention is not soluble in water at room temperature (unlike latex or gums for example).

[0115] Natural resins are also considered natural glues that have the inherent ability to polymerize consistently and predictably on their own without synthetic chemistry.

[0116] Preferably, the natural resin used in the composition according to the invention has a number-average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol. The resin preferably has a number-average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 5,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 5,000 g / mol, better still, less than or equal to 2,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 2,000 g / mol, and even better still less than or equal to 1,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 1,000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weights (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector). Thermal properties

[0117] Advantageously, the resins according to the invention are characterized by the fact that they have a softening point, which designates the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state upon heating.

[0118] Preferably, the resins of the invention have a softening point (or temperature) in the range of 20°C to 150°C, more preferably 30°C to 100°C, even more preferably 40°C to 90°C.

[0119] The softening point is the temperature at which a product reaches a certain degree of softening under standardized conditions. It designates the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state upon heating. It is measurable by the ring and ball method (or TBA, ring and ball temperature) for resins according to ASTM E284.

[0120] Depending on their class, some of the resins according to the invention may also have a melting temperature, preferably less than 360°C, preferentially less than 190°C, and even more preferentially less than 90°C.

[0121] According to a preferred form of the invention, the resins do not have a melting temperature.

[0122] The melting point (or melting temperature) of a substance at a given pressure corresponds to the temperature at which the liquid and solid states of this substance can coexist in equilibrium.

[0123] Preferably, the resins of the invention have a glass transition temperature, this being preferably in the range from 0 to 200°C, more preferably from 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 20°C to 90°C and even more preferred way from 30°C to 70°C.

[0124] The glass transition temperature (Tg) of a material represents the temperature range across which the material changes from a rubbery state to a glassy, ​​solid (rigid) state.

[0125] The thermal properties, in particular the Tf and Tg of the resins are measurable by DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry), for example using a Perkin Elmer DSC 8000 device, according to:

[0126] - Protocol 1: Determination of melting temperatures Tf and crystallization Te: The raw materials alone or solubilized / dispersed in solvents, stainless steel cups, sweeping from 5°C to 90°C, sweeping speed at 5°C.min-l;

[0127] - Protocol 2: Determination of the glass transition temperature Tg: measurement in 2nd heating. Aluminum cups (40 qL) are used containing the raw materials, a temperature scan between -100°C and 150°C (with isotherms) is carried out in order to observe the glass transition temperature. The temperature ramp applied is 10°C / min for the glass transition temperatures (2 cycles).

[0128] Chemically, natural resins are complex mixtures of several classes of compounds whose presence and content define the class of resin (oleoresin, balsam, gum, etc.): essential oils, neutral and acid constituents and polysaccharides (present exclusively in gums).

[0129] The characteristic components of the resins are the terpene compounds which they contain, preferably in a content of at least 30% by weight, based on the weight of resin.

[0130] By "terpene compounds" we mean terpenes, hydrocarbons formed from isoprene of general formula (C5H8)n, and their numerous derivatives (alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids, etc.) comprising a terpene structure (Academy of Montpellier. Resins: https: / / tice.ac-montpellier.fr / ABCDORGA / Famille / Terpenes.html).

[0131] Among the terpenic hydrocarbons, we distinguish: monoterpenes of empirical formula C10H16 (n=2), sesquiterpenes of empirical formula C15H24 (n=3), diterpenes (C20H32) (n=4), sesterterpenes (C25H40) (n=5), triterpenes (C30H48) (n=6), tetraterpenes (C40H64) (n=8) and other polyterpenes. Some have an acyclic structure; they have a number of double bonds corresponding to their empirical formula: 3 for C10H16; 5 for C20H32; 7 for C30H48. Others have one or more cycles, i.e. a smaller number of double bonds; for example for C10H16 one cycle and 2 double bonds or 2 cycles and one double bond.

[0132] Advantageously, the resins of the invention contain at least 30% of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpene compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% of terpene compounds, or even better at least 70%, by weight of the total weight of resin or resinous substance used as raw material in the composition according to the invention.

[0133] Monoterpene and sesquiterpene compounds are mostly volatile compounds, constituting for example essential oils. Polyterpene compounds derived from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4 (such as derivatives of diterpenes and triterpenes) are resinous compounds of a rather solid nature.

[0134] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, of polyterpene compounds, i.e. derived from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4, out of the total weight of the resin representing 100%. Thus, resins having a solid fraction at room temperature (25°C) are preferred. Advantageously, said resins used according to the invention are not volatile.

[0135] Advantageously, the polyterpene compounds of the resins or resinous substances used in the composition of the invention are predominantly (more than 50% by weight of the total weight of polyterpenes) derived from diterpenes and / or triterpenes.

[0136] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise less than 70% by weight of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, i.e. derived from terpenes with n less than 4, on the total weight of the resin representing 100%, preferably said resins comprise less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, derived from terpenes with n less than 4, on the total weight of the resin representing 100%. It is thus preferred, for the compositions of the invention, to limit the use of the most volatile resins, because they are less effective in terms of cosmetic film strength.

[0137] Advantageously, the natural resin(s) according to the invention are chosen from: a) acaroid resins, b) ambers, c) asphaltite and gilsonite, d) Peruvian balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) Benzoin resins, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins (in particular Kauri copal resins, Manila copal resins, West African copals such as Congo, Angola or Cameroon copals, East African copals such as Zanzibar or Madagascar copals, South American copals such as Brazilian or Colombian copals), i) damars, j) elemis, k) incenses, 1) Galbanums, m) labdanums, n) mastics or mastics, o) Myrrh, p) Sandarac, q) Shellac, r) Styrax (Storax), s) Tere Venetian benthine (Larch, Turpentine), t) Colophony, in particular Rosin and rosinate and Tall oils, v) Resins extracted from vegetable waxes; and mixtures of these resins.

[0138] Preferably, the natural resin(s) used according to the invention are chosen from j), k), t) and v); it is understood that the resin(s) of the invention may be esterified, salified, form adducts, be modified by phenols, and / or dimerized and / or further hydrogenated.

[0139] j) The elemis

[0140] "Ëlemis" is the generic term to define the group of recent natural resins derived from plants of the Burseraceae (Canarium indicum) family. Each type is described according to its country of origin. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the elemi resin used comes from the Philippines, particularly Manila elemi. To extract it, the trees are injured and a pathological resin discharge appears, which solidifies over time. Elemi are yellowish to greenish in color, opaque, ointment-like, sticky, and solidify into brownish resins dotted with crystals.

[0141] Elemis are soluble in aromatic solvents, alcohols, esters and carbon disulfide; and less soluble in aliphatic solvents. Elemis have an acid number between 18 and 34, a saponification value between 25 and 60, and a softening point of approx. 80. Balms exuding from elemis contain up to 30% essential oils.

[0142] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from elemi, in particular elemi from the Canarium Luzonicum family in its pure form or mixed with a latex, for example. Mention may be made of the elemi resin from Canarium Luzonicum marketed under the name Elemi Resin.

[0143] k) Incense

[0144] Incenses are present in the United Arab Emirates, Oman, Somalia, Ethiopia and eastern India. Frankincense resins are recent and derived from the Boswellia carterii tree incense. Amazonian frankincense resins are also found. The bark is intentionally wounded to obtain a milky extract which is recovered after drying. Preferably the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from incense, in particular from the Amazon.

[0145] Frankincense resins are pale yellow, form irregular rounded or globular beads. They generally contain 20% to 40% by weight (approx. 33%) of boswellic acid (C32H52O4). Incenses have an acid number between 30% and 50% (indirect) and are moderately soluble in ethanol in alkaline media.

[0146] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from incense, in particular incense resins from the Amazon marketed under the name Protium heptaphyllum resin, or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin, and incense resins from the Sal tree, Shorea robusta.

[0147] Advantageously, the resin(s) are in a mixture with one or more fatty substances, preferably chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils. Examples that may be mentioned include Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil (Shorea Robusta Resin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Tocopherol: 50-75% by weight shorea robusta resin, 25-50% by weight sunflower seed oil) marketed under the name Kahlresin 6720, and Shorea robusta resin with octyldodecanol (Shorea Robusta Resin and Octyldodecanol 50-70% by weight shorea robusta resin, 30-50% by weight octyldodecanol) marketed by Kahlresin 6720.

[0148] t) Rosins

[0149] Preferably, the natural resin(s) are chosen from rosins. Rosins are recent resins, from renewable resources, and can be modified (e.g. esterified, hydrogenated, substituted).

[0150] Rosin gums are preferably purified, distilled, from the balsam of various pine essences (up to 80 different species).

[0151] Their composition is determined by climate, soil composition, and other botanical and meteorological factors. For example, we can cite rosins from Pinus austriaca (black pine) Austria, Central America, caribaea (slash pine), United States, Caribbean, densiflora Japan, elliottii United States, halepensis (Aleppo pine) Greece, Portugal, Spain, langifolia India, maritima (seashore pine) France, Spain, Portugal, massoniana (Chinese red pine) China, mercusii Indonesia, Burma, Philippines, nigra (black pine) Austria, oocarpa Central America, Honduras, palustris (swamp pine), United States, (longleaf pine), pseudostrobus Central America, Mexico, sylvestris (Scots pine) Germany, Poland, tonkinensis China, yunnanensis China.

[0152] The average composition is approx. 70 to 75% rosin and 20 to 25% turpentine.

[0153] Wood rosin [8050-09-7]

[0154] Rosin comes from stumps in the USA that have remained in the ground for at least 10 years so that the resin-rich heartwood is available.

[0155] The pine stumps contain between 10 and 30% by weight (approx. 19% rosin), between 1 and 10% by weight (preferably 4%) of turpentine oil, between 1 and 10% by weight (preferably 4%) of resins insoluble in petroleum ether, between 20 and 30% by weight (preferably 23%) of water and between 40 and 60% by weight (preferably 50%) of cellulose and lignin type.

[0156] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosins.

[0157] Tall oils rosin (Rosin and rosinate) [8052-10-6]

[0158] Tall rosin oils often contain small amounts of fatty acids higher, particularly with a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 6 carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, the tall rosin oils are free of oxocarboxylic acid. In particular, they are soluble in organic solvents.

[0159] The rosin resins of the invention comprise in particular rosin acids belonging to terpenes. The numbering of the carbon atoms in the rosin acid molecules is indicated using abietic acid as an example.

[0160] Rosin acids have the molecular chemical formula C20H30O2 and therefore belong to the diterpene family (four isoprene units). A large number of isomers exist of tricyclic rosin acids which differ in the position of the two double bonds.

[0161] Advantageously, said resin according to the invention is chosen from: gum rosin obtained by incision on living trees, wood rosin which is extracted from stumps or pine wood, and tall oil rosin which is obtained from a by-product from paper production. Advantageously, said resin(s) comprise rosin acids; preferably mainly chosen from abietic and pimaric type acids; and in particular chosen from: levopimaric acid, neoabietic, abietic, dehydroabietic, tetrahydroabietic, dihydroabietic, dextropimaric, isodextropimaric acid; or palustric acid; and mixtures thereof.

[0162] The rosin derivatives may be derived in particular from the polymerization, hydrogenation and / or esterification (for example with polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol) of rosin acids. Examples that may be mentioned are the rosin esters marketed under the reference Forai 85, Pentalyn H and Staybelite Ester 10 by the company Hercules; Sylvatac 95 and Zonester 85 by the company Arizona Chemical or Unirez 3013 by the company Union Camp.

[0163] According to one embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosinates (salts of alkaline agents of rosin acids, in particular salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, alkaline earth metals such as calcium, or metals such as zinc or magnesium).

[0164] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosin acid esters, in particular rosin acid esters as defined above and (C1-C6) alkanol, polyhydroxy(Cl-C6)alkane polyols such as glycerol, pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from glyceryl rosinate sold under the name Resiester GUM A 35, glyceryl rosinate mixed with a vegetable oil hy drugged and / or castor seed oil (Glyceryl Rosinate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil marketed under the name EFP Biotek) pentae-rythrityl rosinate marketed under the name Resiester N 35 S and Resiester 80.

[0165] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from poly(carboxy)(C2-C6) alkane or poly(carboxy)(C2-C6) alkene adducts, in particular of maleic acids with rosin acids.

[0166] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosins modified by phenols. In particular those modified by (C1-C4) alkylene phenols or diphenols, optionally substituted by one or more (C1-C4) alkyl groups such as methyl or t-butyl, more particularly rosins modified by 4-tert-butylphenol and 4,4'-isopropylidenediphenol (bisphenol A).

[0167] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from dimerized rosins; in particular those in which the abietic acid is polymerized. Preferably, the rosins contain more than 50% of dimer acids and are thus called dimerized rosins. According to one embodiment, the rosins are polymerized and contain from 30% to 90% by weight of dimer acid (in particular at least 40%, 60 or 80% of dimer acids).

[0168] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from hydrogenated rosins. The double bonds, in particular acids such as abietic acid, are subject to oxidation, which can be eliminated by hydrogenation. It is understood that the resin(s) of the invention can be esterified, salified, adducted, modified by phenols, and / or dimerized and further hydrogenated.

[0169] According to a preferred embodiment, the resin comprises at least one rosin acid ester selected from the group consisting of glyceryl rosinate, pentaerythrityl rosinate, silicone rosinate, diethylene glycol rosinate, hydrogenated dilinoleyl dimer rosinate, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosinate, glyceryl dibehenate / hydrogenated rosinate, glyceryl diisostearate / hydrogenated rosinate, trihydrogenated glyceryl rosinate, glycol rosinate, hydrogenated methyl rosinate, methyl rosinate, hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate, hydrogenated triethylene glycol rosinate; and mixtures thereof.

[0170] According to a particular embodiment, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate (Pentaerythrityl Hydrogenated Rosinate), hydrogenated methyl rosinate (Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate) marketed under the name Symrise BIO4326.

[0171] In addition, the resin(s) of the invention may be mixed with fatty substances, in particular waxes or butters. Mention may be made of mixtures of glyceryl rosinate with one or more fatty substances, in particular chosen from waxes or butters, such as the mixture with shea butter or olive oil, such as (Glyceryl Rosinate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Buty-rospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Glyceryl Rosinate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsa-ponifiables Glyceryl Rosinate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables marketed by Shea Butter & Glyceryl Rosinate & Oils.

[0172] v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes

[0173] Natural plant waxes as such are not considered resins. Although they are among the substances secreted / excreted by plants and naturally contain a very low resin content, they contain less than 30% by weight of terpenes on the total weight of wax. For example, Camauba wax is naturally secreted by the leaves of a Copernica Cerifera palm to prevent the leaves from dehydrating. Candelilla wax is obtained from a shrub called Euphorbia Antisyphilitica native to Northern Mexico. The wax protects the plant from its environment and prevents excessive evaporation. For example, candelilla wax consists primarily of hydrocarbons (about 50%, chains of 29 to 33 carbon atoms), higher molecular weight esters (20 to 29%), free acids (7 to 9%), and resins (12-14%, primarily triterpene esters).

[0174] Nevertheless, the definition of "natural resins" within the meaning of the present invention also includes resins derived from vegetable waxes, when they have been previously concentrated, isolated or extracted from these waxes, provided that the resinous or terpenic ingredient considered contains the minimum terpene content (30% by weight of the total weight of the ingredient) required by the present invention. Mention may in particular be made of Candelilla resin (100% pure resin extracted from the corresponding wax), with the INCI name: Euphorbia Cerifera (Candellila) Wax Extract, marketed under the name Candelilla Resin El by Japan Natural Products.Document WO2013 / 147113 A1 also refers to Camauba resin, a terpene resin extracted from Camauba wax, and having physical properties similar to those of conventionally described natural resins, such as a softening temperature and not a melting temperature which differentiates the resin from the wax.

[0175] The resins have a softening point and a glass transition temperature, but no melting temperature.

[0176] The opposite is true for waxes that have a melting point.

[0177] Preferably, the resin(s) are chosen from the resin(s) j), k), and t) as defined above, and the resins v) extracted from waxes, in particular candelilla or camauba; and mixtures thereof.

[0178] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from the following references, indicated by their INCI name, used alone or as a mixture:

[0179] - resins extracted from vegetable waxes (type v resins), preferably extracts of Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax, such as Candelilla Resin E-1 marketed by Japan Natural Products, Botanical Resin marketed by Cera Rica Noda, Towax-1F12 marketed by Toa Kasei;

[0180] - incense resins (type k resins), preferably Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin, which can be marketed for example by Citroleo or Ephyla;

[0181] - incense resins from the Sal tree, Shorea Robusta Resin. The resin(s) may be found in a mixture with one or more fatty substances, preferably chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils. Examples include Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil (Shorea Robusta Resin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Tocopherol: 50-75% by weight Shorea Robusta Resin, 25-50% by weight Sunflower Seed Oil) marketed under the name Kahlresin 6720, and Shorea Robusta resin with octyldodecanol (Shorea Robusta Resin and Octyldodecanol 50-70% by weight Shorea Robusta Resin, 30-50% by weight octyldodecanol) marketed by Kahlresin 6720 (k-type resin); and

[0182] - rosins (t-type resins), preferably rosin acid esters (Rosin) such as Glyceryl Rosinate marketed under the name Resiester Gum A 35, Glyceryl Rosinate in a mixture with a hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor seed oil (Glyceryl Rosinate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil marketed under the name EFP Biotek), pentaerythrityl rosinate marketed under the name Resiester N 35 S and Resiester 80 or hydrogenated rosinates such as hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate (Pentaerythrityl Hydrogenated Rosinate) or hydrogenated methyl rosinate (Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate) marketed under the name Symrise BIO4326.

[0183] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from resins extracted from Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax, incense resins such as Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin, incense resins from the Sal tree such as Shorea Robusta resin and Glyceryl Rosinate. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from resins extracted from Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax, incense resins such as Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin and incense resins from the Sal tree such as Shorea Robusta resin.

[0184] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from Euphorbia Cerifera (Candellila) Wax Extract.

[0185] Advantageously, the resin(s) is(are) present in the composition of the invention in a content, expressed as active material, ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 3 to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. VOLATILE SOLVENTS

[0186] The composition in accordance with the present invention comprises at least one volatile solvent.

[0187] In the context of the invention, the term “volatile solvent” is understood to mean a compound which is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 .105Pa) having a vapor pressure at 20°C ranging from 0.13 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and preferably ranging from 0.5 Pa to 8,000 Pa.

[0188] Among the volatile solvents, we can cite: - monoalcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms; - volatile oils chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, or their mixtures; - their mixtures.

[0189] According to a particular form of the invention, the volatile solvent is chosen from: - monoalcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms; - non-polar volatile hydrocarbon oils, or their mixtures; - their mixtures.

[0190] Preferably, the composition comprises, as volatile solvents, at least one C2-C6 monoalcohol and at least one apolar volatile hydrocarbon oil. C2-C6 monoalcohol

[0191] The monoalcohol(s) in accordance with the invention preferably comprise from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0192] The monoalcohol(s) may be represented for example by the formula RaOH, in which Ra represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0193] As mono-alcohol, mention may be made of ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or butanol, and their mixtures.

[0194] Preferably, said monoalcohol comprises at least ethanol and even more preferably, the monoalcohol is ethanol.

[0195] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the monoalcohol content represents from 1 to 40% by weight, advantageously from 5 to 35% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Volatile oils

[0196] Oil means any lipophilic compound found in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0197] The volatile oil(s) are chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils or their mixtures.

[0198] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and preferably ranging from 0.5 Pa to 8,000 Pa (OECD standard 104).

[0199] By “apolar hydrocarbon oil” is meant an oil chosen from hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0200] By “silicone oil” we mean an oil comprising at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0201] The apolar volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, linear or branched, preferably saturated, and their mixtures.

[0202] The volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can thus be chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0203] Examples of linear alkanes, in particular C8-C14, that may be mentioned include n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof. Examples that may be mentioned include n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12 97® and Parafol 14 97®, and mixtures thereof. According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane may be used, and in particular the dodecane / tetradecane mixture sold by the company Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight 1214®. According to yet another embodiment, it is also possible to use a mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes with the INCI name: C9-12 Alkane such as the product marketed by the company Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight Silk®.According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (Cl3) can be used, such as those obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis and such as that sold under the trade name Cetiol Ultimate® by the company BASF.

[0204] Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil.

[0205] The volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from branched C8-C16 alkanes. Mention may in particular be made of C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permetyl®.

[0206] As an example of volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of volatile silicone oils, such as linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, and containing in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl-cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, deca-methyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.

[0207] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile oil is chosen from apolar volatile hydrocarbon oils, even more particularly chosen from branched C8-C16 alkanes, from linear C8-C14 alkanes, as well as their mixtures, and in particular isododecane, the mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes and the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13), and their mixtures.

[0208] Preferably, the content of volatile oil(s), preferably apolar hydrocarbon oil(s), represents from 1 to 40% by weight, advantageously from 5 to 35% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] Preferably, if the composition comprises at least one silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, then their content does not exceed 5% by weight, more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of them.

[0210] According to a preferred form of the invention, the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of monoalcohol(s) is less than 3.5 and even more preferably less than 1.5. NON-VOLATILE OILS

[0211] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, different from the aforementioned polyester, or silicone, as well as their mixtures.

[0212] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.

[0213] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 20°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the method effusion by isothermal thermogravimetry, according to the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104). Polar hydrocarbon oils

[0214] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant that said oils comprise, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen atom. Thus said hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one hydroxyl, ester, ether and / or carboxylic function.

[0215] The composition according to the invention can therefore comprise at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, more particularly chosen from: * Fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, C10-C26, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. More particularly, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; * Ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably C3-Ci6; * hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils; * ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 8 carbon atoms; * liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms; * as well as their mixtures.

[0216] Preferably, the second oil is chosen from: - lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof; preferably octyldodecanol; - dicaprylyl ether; - dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate; - castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pothnarron oil, sesame oil, pumpkin oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, linseed oil, quinoa oil, rye, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter and mixtures thereof; - 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, butyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, C12-15 alcohol benzoates, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isocetyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, tri Glyceryl decyl-2 tetradecanoate, capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, C18-36 acid triglycerides, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl tri decyl-2 tetradecanoate, triisostearyl citrate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate,pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate; isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, - polyesters with the following INCI names: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, di-linoleic acid / propanediol copolymer, dimer dilinoleyl dilinoleate, - as well as their mixtures. Non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0217] The non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin such as for example: - paraffin oil, - squalane, particularly of plant origin, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28, such as mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-19 Alkane Cl8-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, such as, for example, the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L15 and L19 marketed by SEPPIC, - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the Indopol range marketed by the company Ineos Oligomers, - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company Nippon Oil & Fat, - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Silkflo range marketed by the company Ineos, Dekanex by the company IMCD, - and their mixtures.

[0218] Preferably, if the composition comprises it, the non-volatile oil is chosen from polar hydrocarbon oils alone or in mixtures, different from the aforementioned polyester, in particular chosen from alcohol oils, ester oils. According to an even more preferred embodiment, if the composition comprises it, the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s), chosen from octyldodecanol, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 8 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from octyldodecanol, fatty acid triglycerides containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), as well as vegetable oils. Non-volatile silicone oils

[0219] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile phenylated silicone oil, comprising or not at least one dimethicone fragment, or comprising at least one non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oil, or mixtures thereof.

[0220] The term “phenylated” specifies that said oil contains at least one phenyl radical in its structure.

[0221] The term "dimethicone fragment" designates a divalent siloxane group whose silicon atom carries two methyl radicals, this group not being found at one or both ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.

[0222] Preferably, the silicones do not contain a C 2-C 3 alkylene oxide group, nor a glycerol group.

[0223] As non-volatile phenylated oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, mention may be made of the oils with the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and their mixtures, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone. Diphenyl Dimethicones are notably marketed by the company Shin Etsu under the names KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS. Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicones are for example marketed by the company Wacker Chemie under the names Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20.

[0224] Among the non-volatile phenylated silicone oils devoid of dimethicone fragment, mention may be made of the compounds with the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, alone or in mixtures. As non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils suitable for carrying out the invention, mention may be made those marketed by the Wacker company under the Belsil DM range, by the Dow Corning company with the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid range, by the Shin Etsu company with the KF-96 A range.

[0225] Representative examples of non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes, alkyldimethicones. Note that “Dimethicone” (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name). Preferably, these non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones comprising at least one C2-C24 alkyl group, as well as mixtures thereof. Thus, these oils can be chosen from Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, alone or in mixtures. Suitable non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils include those marketed by Wacker under the Belsil DM range, by Dow Corning with the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid range, and by Shin Etsu with the KF-96 A range.Alkyldimethicones can be marketed, for example, under the commercial references Abil Wax 9800, Abil Wax 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt, or Dowsil 2502 Cosmetic Fluid, Dowsil 2503 Cosmetic Wax, from Dow Corning; and their mixtures.

[0226] Preferably, the non-volatile oil is chosen from polar hydrocarbon oils, different from polyester B), in particular from ester oils. According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oil, chosen from fatty alcohols, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 8 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from fatty acid triglycerides containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0227] If the composition comprises it, the content of non-volatile oil(s) varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0228] Preferably, if the composition comprises at least one silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, then their content does not exceed 5% by weight, more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of them.

[0229] Preferably the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester is less than 7. WATER

[0230] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water.

[0231] A water suitable for the invention may be a demineralized water, a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and / or a thermal water.

[0232] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, if the composition according to the invention comprises water, its content is less than 20% by weight, more particularly less than 15% by weight, and preferably less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. COLOURING MATERIALS

[0233] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one coloring material.

[0234] According to a particular form of the invention, the coloring matter may be chosen from powdery coloring matters, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. Powdered coloring matter

[0235] The powdery coloring materials can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, nacres and their mixtures.

[0236] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0237] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0238] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0239] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0240] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 100 nm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0241] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a gra- Malvern Master Sizer 3000® commercial nulometer, which allows the particle size distribution of all particles to be measured over a wide range from 0.01 qm to 1000 qm. The data is processed using the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron, and allows the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0242] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.

[0243] According to a particular form of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter being preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0244] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0245] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with an N-acylated amino acid or one of its salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0246] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative which may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as, for example, aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the commercial reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0247] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate. As examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the commercial reference BWB0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and BWRO- 12® (Iron Oxide CI77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by the company KOBO.

[0248] The pigments that can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.

[0249] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone compounds.

[0250] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 1725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolics as described in patent FR2 679 771.,

[0251] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0252] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0253] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0254] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0255] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0256] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pulverulent coloring material of mineral pigment type, in particular chosen from metal oxides, and more particularly chosen from titanium dioxides, iron oxides, coated or not, and their mixtures.

[0257] The nacres can be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0258] Preferably, the pulverulent coloring material(s) is (are) present, preferably, in the composition in a content ranging from 3 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 8 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring matters

[0259] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring matter and preferably in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0260] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the skills of those skilled in the art.

[0261] The additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be fat-soluble.

[0262] By "liposoluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.

[0263] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes, synthetic or natural, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ([3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

[0264] The additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble.

[0265] By "water-soluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

[0266] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

[0267] The water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant(s), if the composition comprises them, are preferably present at contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. COSMETIC ADDITIVES

[0268] The compositions according to the invention may comprise additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products such as active ingredients such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; UV filters; fillers; waxes; pasty compounds; hydrophilic gelling agents; film-forming agents; lipophilic gelling agents; perfumes; preservatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0269] It is a matter of routine operation for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not affected.

[0270] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. Charges

[0271] The compositions in accordance with the invention may thus comprise at least one filler making it possible, in particular, to give them additional properties of mattness, coverage, hold and / or improved stability.

[0272] By "filler" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. They make it possible to give body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to the makeup.

[0273] The fillers may be inorganic or organic.

[0274] Preferably, they can be chosen from natural or naturally derived fillers.

[0275] By "natural compound" is meant a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as for example grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0276] By "compound of natural origin" is meant a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising mainly natural constituents that have or have not undergone transformations. As a non-limiting example of additional chemical or industrial treatments resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by control organizations such as Ecocert (Reference for organic and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toileries Magazine", 2005, vol. 120, 9: 10.

[0277] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber forms or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0278] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and, in particular, they may be surface-treated with amino acids or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. Mineral fillers

[0279] Examples of mineral fillers include talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica, hydrophobic silica aerogels, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass. Organic fillers

[0280] Examples of organic fillers include natural micronized waxes; metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine, cellulose powders such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range.

[0281] Preferably, the filler(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes

[0282] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrocarbon wax, polar or apolar.

[0283] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C and up to 120°C.

[0284] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q2000” by the company TA Instruments with the “TA Universal Analysis” software.

[0285] The measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the solid fatty substance is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. The enthalpy of fusion of the wax (AHf) can also be measured, which is the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0286] Waxes can be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0287] In particular, the waxes have a melting temperature preferably above higher than or equal to 35°C and better higher than or equal to 40°C. Non-polar waxes

[0288] By "apolar hydrocarbon wax", for the purposes of the present invention, is meant a wax consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms, such as for example N, O, Si, P....

[0289] As examples of apolar waxes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, and polyvinyl alcohol waxes. refined, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, microwaxes, especially polyethylene. Polar waxes

[0290] Polar waxes can in particular be hydrocarbon or silicone.

[0291] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially, or even consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one heteroatom more particularly chosen from oxygen, optionally nitrogen, or mixtures thereof. It may thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0292] By “silicone wax” is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

[0293] According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax.

[0294] As hydrocarbon polar wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is preferred.

[0295] According to the invention, the term “ester wax” means a wax comprising at least one ester function. Ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.

[0296] By “alcohol wax” is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl group (OH).

[0297] In particular, the following may be used as ester wax, alone or in mixtures: i) waxes of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 6 to 50, in particular from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as for example O, N and whose melting temperature varies more particularly from 30 to 120 C. In particular, it is possible to use as ester wax a C2o-C4O alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C2o-C4O alkyl stearate. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®”, “Kester Wax K 80 P®”, or “Kester Wax K82H” by the company Koster Keunen. Stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate and their mixtures can also be used. ii) di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group and which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated. iv) Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of oils may also be mentioned. animal or vegetable oils having in particular linear or branched fatty chains, in C8-C32, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold in the Phytowax Castor range, for example Phytowax Castor 22L73®, or waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as those in the Phytowax Olive range, for example Phytowax Olive 18L57, marketed by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in particular in application FR2792190. v) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol. By total esters, it is meant that all the hydroxyl functions of the glycerol are esterified. By way of example, mention may be made of trihydroxy stearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or in a mixture. Among suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or of hydrogenated castor oil, such as for example Thixcin R, Thixcin E, marketed by Elementis Specialties. (vi) Mention may also be made of waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, sunflower wax, in particular refined. vii) Mention may also be made of hydrocarbon waxes, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylenated units (in C2-C4) may vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerol units may vary from 1 to 20. As examples, mention may be made of polyoxyethylene beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylene camauba waxes, such as PEG-12 camauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethenate or polyoxypropylene, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerol beeswax, including polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters blend, polyglycerol vegetable waxes such as mimosa, jojoba, sunflower waxes, and blends thereof (Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters.

[0298] According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. As alcohol wax, mention may be made of mixtures of linear, saturated C3o-C5o alcohols such as, for example, Performacol 550 Alcohol wax from New Phase Technologie, alcohol stearic, cetyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

[0299] Preferably, if the composition comprises it, the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes. More particularly, it is chosen from apolar waxes; polar hydrocarbon waxes such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes of animal or vegetable origin obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils; alcohol waxes; as well as their mixtures; and preferably from apolar hydrocarbon waxes, alone or in mixtures.

[0300] The content of wax(es), in the case where the composition comprises it, advantageously varies from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pasty compounds

[0301] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one pasty compound at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0302] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" means a lipophilic compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, exhibiting in particular in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at room temperature a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0303] In other words, the onset melting temperature of the pasty compound may be lower than room temperature. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at room temperature may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at room temperature preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

[0304] The melting point of the pasty fatty body is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes. In the case of pasty compounds, however, the measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fat is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in solid crystalline form. The pasty fat is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the amount of energy required to transform the pasty fat from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is equal to the value under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

[0305] The pasty compound may in particular be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin.

[0306] The pasty compound(s) may in particular be chosen from: - lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolins; - petroleum jelly (also called petrolatum), - ethers of pentaerythritol and C2-C4 polyalkylene glycol, for example, compounds with the following INCI names: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, and mixtures thereof. Examples include the mixture marketed under the name Lanolide, by the company Vevy, - fat-soluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, preferably C2-C50. Among the fat-soluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides are considered in particular, preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will be made in particular of the product with the INCI name PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer marketed for example under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by the company Akzo Nobel, - esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched, preferably saturated, C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, C6-C20, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in particular marketed under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo. (INCI name: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2), - triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, possibly mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably Ci2-Ci8, possibly hydrogenated (totally or partially); such as for example the glycerides of saturated fatty acids C12-C18 marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides), - esters of dimer diol, or polyol, and dimer diacid such as for example: * esters of dilinoleic alcohol dimer and dilinoleic acid whose hydroxyl groups are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate); - butters of vegetable origin such as mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; as well as orange wax such as, for example, that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, - fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, - hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as dimer hydrogenated castor oil di-linoleate, for example Risocast-DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (VL) sold by Nisshin Oil, - and mixtures thereof.

[0307] If the composition comprises at least one pasty compound, its content varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Lipophilic gelling agents

[0308] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0309] As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made, for example, of lipophilic clays.

[0310] The term “lipophilic clay” means any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in the oily phase of the composition.

[0311] Clay refers to a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates with a lamellar structure.

[0312] The clays can be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, particularly steralkonium chloride or di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride.

[0313] They can be chosen from bentonites, in particular bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

[0314] Preferably, they are chosen from hectorites and bentonites.

[0315] For example, one can use a lipophilic clay chosen from bentonites hydrophobically modified and hydrophobically modified hectorites, in particular by a quaternary ammonium chloride in CIO to C22, such as: - a bentonite modified by stearalkonium chloride such as the commercial products sold under the name Claytone AF®, Garamite VT®, Viscogel® LG-M, Viscogel® MP 250 Viscogel® VZ, Viscogel® VZ-V XR, by the company BYK Additives Inc; the commercial products sold under the name Viscogel® B3, Viscogel® B4, Viscogel® B7, Viscogel ® B8, Viscogel® ED, Viscogel® GM, Viscogel® S4, Viscogel® SD by the company Bentec SPA; - a bentonite modified by stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil such as the commercial products DUB VELVET GUM® from the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS FILS, MYGLYOL GEL T® from the company Cremer Oleo, Tixogel® CGT 6030, Tixogel ® DBA 6060, Tixogel ® FTN, Tixogel ® FTN 1564, Tixogel ® IPM, Tixogel ® LAN, Tixogel ® LAN 1563 from the company BYK Additives Inc; - a hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium Hectorite) such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone® 38VCG Rheological Additive by the company Elementis Specialities; - a hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil such as the commercial products sold under the name Bentone® Gel DOA V, Bentone® Gel EUG V, Bentone® Gel IHD V, Bentone® Gel ISD V, Bentone® Gel MIO V® Bentone® Gel PTM V®, Bentone® SS-71 V, Bentone® VS-5 PC V, Bentone® VS-5 by the company Elementis Specialities; the commercial products sold under the name Creagel Bentone CPS / Hectone CPS, Creagel Bentone ID / Hectone ID from Créations Couleurs; commercial products sold under the name NS GEL DM1®, NS GEL PTIS®, NS MGEL 1152® from Next Step Laboratories Stop.

[0316] As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may also be made of esters of dextrin and fatty acid, in particular C12 to C24, preferably C14 to C18, or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and C12-C18 fatty acid, in particular C14-C18.

[0317] Preferably, the lipophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition at concentrations ranging, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0318] The invention also relates to a method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, in particular the lips, in which the composition according to the invention is applied.

[0319] It is further indicated that the compositions according to the invention more particularly comprise a cosmetically (or physiologically) acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying such compositions.

[0320] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0321] The expressions “between... and...” and “ranging from... to...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0322] Furthermore, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

[0323] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.

[0324] Raw materials are named by their chemical or INCI name. EXAMPLES Viscosity measurement protocol

[0325] The viscosity measurement is carried out at 25°C with a sample of the composition, 24 hours after its manufacture (storage at room temperature), using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscosimeter equipped with a spindle no. 2 or 3, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle within the formula, at a shear of 200 revolutions / min (rpm). Tights measurement protocol

[0326] The composition is deposited on several stainless steel cups 100qm deep. and is leveled as quickly as possible. The cups are left to dry at room temperature for one hour.

[0327] The device used is a TAXT2i texturometer. The clamp mounted on the device grips a 6 mm diameter AU4G cylinder at the end of which is glued a smooth beige synthetic skin tip of the same diameter and 2 mm thick. Between each measurement, the tip is cleaned with ethanol. Multiple measurements are never taken at the same location in the depot.

[0328] The parameters of the compression tests with time retention are indicated below:

[0329] [Tables 1] Approach speed (or pre-speed) Imm / s Speed ​​(from contact detection) 0.1mm / s Force (and corresponding pressure) 0.283N (i.e. 0.01MPa) Holding time 3 s Withdrawal speed (or post-speed) 0.1mm / s

[0330] The adhesive is characterized by the detachment work measured during discharge (tensile phase), corresponding to the integral of the curve under the time axis. This work is expressed positively in joules per square meter. Gloss measurement protocol

[0331] 1. The composition to be tested is applied using a BYK spreader referenced PA-5356 with a thickness of 25.4 pm on the white part of an ERICHSEN contrast card referenced 0049.09.33 and the composition is left to dry for 40 minutes at 32°C in a dry oven. 2. The gloss measurement at 60° of the resulting deposit is carried out using a BYK gloss meter in 3 different locations on the deposit, far from the edges of the deposit, and the average is taken. 3. The deposit is considered glossy if the gloss value is at least 20. The higher the value, the glossier the deposit. Protocol for measuring holding and transfer 1. Test preparation:

[0332] Support: Beige supplale (2.5 x 5 cm) (sold by Soudotique).

[0333] Spread the composition (D) over the entire surface 3 times in a row to obtain a deposit homogeneous. Repeat the operation on two other strips. Leave the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 32°C for 45 minutes. Possibly take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before the request. 2. Requests:

[0334] Preparation of a tissue for each request: Fold each tissue twice along the long edge and then twice the other way to form a square. Dry resistance:

[0335] Rub once with the handkerchief folded lengthwise one of the three made-up surfaces; the force applied is that normally exerted when removing make-up from the skin or lips. Observe the condition of the rubbed support as well as the used surface of the handkerchief, in particular the remaining coloring, the transferred coloring. Possibly take a photo.

[0336] Note that the evaluation of the transfer resistance is made with this stress.

[0337] In the event that several passes are made, they would then be made with the same force and always in the same direction (i.e. after each pass, the handkerchief is lifted to be repositioned at the "beginning" of the strip in order to be reapplied to the deposit in the same way as in the previous pass). Possibly take a photo between each step or only at the end of the evaluation. This type of process can be implemented to evaluate the overall resistance of the deposit.

[0338] Water resistance:

[0339] Insert the second coated support without folding it into a centrifuge tube. Add 10 grams of demineralized water. Centrifuge for 10 minutes at 450g. Optionally take a photo of the support after mixing, immediately after the operation. Rub once with a tissue along the length of the support, without waiting, with the same force as that applied for dry resistance. Observe the condition of the rubbed support as well as the used surface of the handkerchief, in particular the remaining coloring, the transferred coloring. Possibly take a photo.

[0340] The protocol for multiple passes is the same as that detailed previously for dry resistance. Oil resistance:

[0341] Implement the same protocol as for water resistance, on the third made-up support, replacing the water with the same quantity of olive oil (Refined Olive Oil - Aarhuskarlshamn). Rating:

[0342] For each request, note the result according to the table below:

[0343] [Tables2] Deposit rating State of the deposit Fabric rating Surface of the fabric in contact with the deposit - - Total or partial removal of the deposit on the rubbed area; the surface of the support appears in places 5 Very intense staining - very significant to total transfer of the color - Partial removal resulting in a significantly and visibly less intense staining of the deposit. 4 Intense staining - significant transfer of the color + Reduction in the intensity of the color of the deposit perceptible but which does not reveal the support 3 Medium staining - average transfer of the color ++ No substantial variation in the color of the deposit 2 Slight staining - little transfer of the color +++ No variation in the color of the deposit 1 No staining or barely visible staining - no to very little transfer of the color Examples

[0344] The following compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and the contents in mass percentages of which are gathered in the table below. In these compositions, the role of the polyester according to the invention (Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate) was highlighted in relation to two polyesters not falling within the scope of the invention (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate) and in relation to a composition which is devoid of it:

[0345] [Tables3] 1 Invention A Comparative B Comparative c Comparative Isododecane 30 30 30 39 Absolute Ethanol 30 30 30 30 Euphorbia Cerifera Cera Extract (Candelilla Resin El; Japan Natural Products) 10 10 10 10 Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (SolAmaze Natural®-Nouryon) 15 - - - Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 649® - Sasol) - 9 - - Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate (Risocast-DA-L® -Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo) - - 9 - Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride (Dub MCT; Stearineries Dubois) 5 11 11 11 Red 7 / CI 15850 10 10 10 10 100 100 100 100 1. Preparation of the compositions

[0346] In a beaker, mix the polyester, isododecane, ethanol and Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride and stir the mixture under a RAYNERI deflocculator for 2 min at 500 rpm.

[0347] Once the mixture is homogenized, introduce the previously ground Candelilla resin in a fine spray, under a deflocculator at 500 rpm then leave stirring for 10 minutes.

[0348] Finally, introduce the pigment and leave to stir for another 5 minutes at 500 rpm.

[0349] Condition the resulting composition. 2. Evaluation of compositions

[0350] Each composition is stable and applies easily to the lips in a homogeneous and comfortable deposit.

[0351] The table below brings together the results of the gloss assessments evaluated according to the detailed protocol as described above:

[0352] [Tables4] Composition 1 Composition A Composition B Composition C Gloss 30 12 9.9 2.7 Appearance of the deposit Glossy Satin Satin Matt

[0353] The table below brings together the results of the evaluations of the outfit evaluated according to the detailed protocol as described above:

[0354] [Tables5] Composition 1 Composition A Composition B Composition C Hold Dry + ++ - Water +++ ++ + - Oil + Transfer 3 4 4 4

[0355] The formula according to the invention presents the best compromise among the compositions tested, in particular it systematically presents better resistance to water and oil, as well as better transfer resistance properties.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one natural resin, - at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 (ii) at least one dimer acid, and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty monoacid, - at least one volatile solvent.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the natural resin comprises at least 30% by weight of the total weight of resin of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpene compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% of terpene compounds, or even better at least 70% by weight of the total weight of resin.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural resin is chosen from the following resins, alone or in a mixture: - resins extracted from vegetable waxes, preferably Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax extracts; - incense resins, preferably Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin; - incense resins from the Sal tree, Shorea Robusta Resin, alone or in a mixture with one or more volatile or non-volatile oils, preferably Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil, and Shorea robusta resin with octyldodecanol;and - rosins, preferably rosin acid esters such as glyceryl rosinate, glyceryl rosinate mixed with hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor seed oil, pentaerythrityl rosinate or hydrogenated rosinates such as hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate or hydrogenated methyl rosinate.;

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural resin represents from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. A composition according to any preceding claim, characterized in that the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim, characterized in that the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully random addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 is triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; said polyglycerols corresponding to the formula (I) H[-O-Gly]n-OH, in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

11. A composition according to any preceding claim, ca- characterized in that the polyester is a substantially or wholly non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case based on the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case based on the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oily solution comprising: a) a polyester obtained by reaction: (i) Polyglycerol-3, and (ii) a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) isostearic acid; the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture more particularly having as INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

13. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oily solution contains the polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 12 or 13, characterized in that the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of Polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester content represents from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile solvent is chosen from monoalcohols

17.

18.

19.

20.

21.

22.

23.

24.

25. containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms; volatile oils chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, or mixtures thereof; and mixtures thereof. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) are chosen from apolar volatile hydrocarbon oils comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof; and preferably from branched C8-C16 alkanes, linear C8-C14 alkanes, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from isododecane, undecane, tridecane, alone or in mixtures. Composition according to claim 16, characterized in that the monoalcohol content represents from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 5 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 16 to 18, characterized in that the content of volatile oil(s), preferably hydrocarbon-based, represents from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 5 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 16 to 19, characterized in that the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of monoalcohol(s) is less than 3.5 and even more preferably less than 1.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, different from polyester, or silicone, as well as their mixtures; preferably at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably polar, different from the aforementioned polyester, in particular chosen from ester oils. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of non-volatile oil(s), preferably hydrocarbon oil(s), varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 21 or 22, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester is less than 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is liquid. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content represents less than 20% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, at a content not exceeding 5% by weight, advantageously not exceeding 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably the composition is free of it.

27. ​​Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

28. Method for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, in which the composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied.