COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR IMPROVING THE PENETRATION OF ACTIVE AGENTS IN KERATIN FIBERS

Abstract

COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR IMPROVING THE PENETRATION OF ACTIVE AGENTS INTO KERATIN FIBERS. The disclosure relates to compositions and methods for improving the penetration of active agents into keratin fibers. The compositions include at least one penetration-enhancing solvent and at least one active agent for hair treatment. The methods include improving the penetration of active agents into keratin fibers as well as treating keratin fibers with the compositions. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR IMPROVING THE PENETRATION OF ACTIVE AGENTS IN KERATIN FIBERS technical field

[0001] This disclosure relates to compositions and methods for improving the penetration of agents for the treatment of keratin fibers, for example agents for repairing damaged hair fibers, providing strength to hair fibers and / or reducing the elasticity of hair fibers. CONTEXT

[0002] Consumers use cosmetic compositions and processes to change or improve the appearance of their hair, for example, by changing the color, style, and / or shape of the hair, and / or by imparting various properties to the hair, such as shine and revitalization. However, many compositions and processes for modifying the appearance of hair, such as those for permanently changing the color or shape of hair, involve harsh chemical treatments. In addition, repeated styling can lead to hair damage, for example, due to the repeated use of heat and styling tools. All of these processes can break the bonds within the hair fibers, which, if not reformed, result in damaged hair.

[0003] For example, hair lightening and dyeing compositions and processes generally require the presence of a strong alkalizing agent, such as ammonia, as well as additional compounds, such as oxidizing agents. In order to change the hair color, these components must first break down the natural components of the hair fibers. Similarly, straightening, relaxing, and perming compositions also involve aggressive chemicals to alter the shape of the hair by breaking the disulfide bonds in the hair fibers.

[0004] It is known that, although such processes effectively alter the color and shape of hair, the chemical agents used inherently cause damage to the hair and negatively impact the strength, elasticity, and porosity of the hair fibers. For example, hair that has been bleached, dyed, straightened, smoothed, curled, repeatedly styled, etc., is often dry, frizzy, and generally appears unhealthy to the touch and in appearance. Furthermore, damaged hair is brittle and / or exhibits increased elasticity, which This leads to more frequent hair breakage. As a result, consumers are looking for formulas and processes to prevent or minimize such damage and / or repair hair damaged by these treatments and processes. Specifically, consumers want strong hair that doesn't break easily, that can be stretched or manipulated while retaining its ability to return to its original state without breakage (i.e., with reduced elasticity), that is soft and healthy to the touch, and that also has a shiny, healthy appearance.

[0005] However, it has proven difficult to formulate compositions that satisfactorily meet these requirements. For example, some compositions that attempt to solve the problem simply coat the hair with compounds that may improve its feel and appearance; however, this approach is only temporary and superficial. Rather than preventing or repairing hair damage, this approach merely masks the damage until the next rinse or wash. Other compositions attempt to treat damage within the hair fiber, but to date, these have not been satisfactory. This is thought to be due, in part, to ineffective penetration of active agents into the hair fibers, for example, in hair that has been treated with conditioning compositions, resulting in an accumulation of such compositions on the surface of the hair fiber.

[0006] The present inventors have now discovered that certain components are surprisingly effective in improving the penetration of active agents into keratin fibers, for example, hair. Surprisingly, this effect has been observed even in hair that exhibited a substantial accumulation of coated product. Hair treated with compositions comprising one or more of these components, in combination with active agents, shows remarkably reduced signs of damage, including increased strength and / or reduced elasticity, particularly hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, straightening, relaxing, etc. SUMMARY

[0007] This disclosure relates to compositions and processes for improving the penetration of active agents into keratin fibers, for example, active agents to prevent, minimize or repair hair damage such as damage caused by aggressive chemical compositions and processes.

[0008] In various embodiments, the disclosure relates to compositions for treating keratin fibers such as hair, compositions comprising at least one penetration-enhancing solvent and at least one active agent. In various embodiments, the penetration-enhancing solvent(s) may be selected among the polyols, and the active agent(s) can be chosen from among amino acids, osmolytes and / or carboxylic acids.

[0009] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one penetration-enhancing solvent selected from diols and / or triols, (b) at least one amino acid and / or one of its salts, (c) at least one osmolyte, and (d) at least one carboxylic acid and / or one of its salts. In other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one penetration-enhancing solvent selected from polyols such as, for example, C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols, e.g., glycols, (b) at least one amino acid selected from compounds of formula (I) and / or their salts, (c) at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrates, polyamines, and / or compounds of formula (II), and (d) at least one carboxylic acid and / or one of its salts.In other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one penetration-enhancing solvent selected from C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols, for example, glycols, (b) at least one basic amino acid and / or one of its salts, (c) at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, and / or betaines, preferably at least one betaine selected from compounds of formula (II), and (d) at least one carboxylic acid and / or its salt. In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one penetration-enhancing solvent selected from glycols, for example, propylene glycol and / or dipropylene glycol, (b) arginine and / or one of its salts, (c) at least one compound of formula (II), and (d) at least one carboxylic acid and / or its salt. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example less than about 6, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.

[0010] In various embodiments, the total amount of penetration-enhancing solvents ranges from about 2% to about 50%, preferably from about 5% to about 45%, more preferably from about 7% to about 40%, more preferably from about 8% to about 35%, and most preferably from about 8% to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The penetration-enhancing solvents comprise at least one polyol. In some embodiments, the penetration-enhancing solvents may comprise, consist mainly of, or consist of C2-C16 diols and / or C2-C16 triols, for example, C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols. In some embodiments, the penetration-enhancing solvents may comprise, consist mainly of, or consist of glycols, for example, propylene glycol and / or dipropylene glycol.

[0011] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amino acid selected from basic amino acids, for example arginine, histidine, lysine, their salts, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of basic amino acids and their salts varies from approximately 0.1% to approximately 15%. The composition comprises, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, most preferably from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amino acid selected from acidic or neutral amino acids and their salts, for example, serine. In various embodiments, the total amount of acidic and / or neutral amino acids and their salts varies from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In other embodiments, the compositions comprise a mixture of basic, acidic and / or neutral amino acids; for example, the compositions may comprise arginine and serine. In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids and their salts present in the composition varies from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the above-mentioned elements (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and combinations of two or more of these.

[0013] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, methylsulfonium compounds, polyamines and / or amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II). In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably still from about 1.5% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 2% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and the total amount of osmolytes which is equal to or greater than about 0.5, for example greater than about 1, preferably between about 1.25 and about 3.5, more preferably between about 1.5 and about 3, more preferably still between about 1.75 and about 2.5, and most preferably between about 1.75 and about 2.25.

[0014] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one carboxylic acid selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these, and preferably citric acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In various embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts may vary from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 12%, most preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.

[0015] The composition may further comprise water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent in addition to the penetration-enhancing solvent(s). Optionally, the compositions may comprise water and at least one additional non-aqueous solvent. The compositions may also optionally include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0016] In certain embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one penetration-enhancing solvent selected from glycols, for example propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or mixtures thereof, (b) at least one basic amino acid, for example arginine and / or its salts, (c) from about 1% to about 5% glycine betaine, (d) at least one carboxylic acid, for example citric acid and / or its salts, (e) water, and (f) optionally serine, wherein the total amount of penetration-enhancing solvents ranges from about 8% to about 40%, in which the total amount of basic amino acids ranges from about 1% to about 10%, and in which all amounts are by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than about 7, for example, ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.In various embodiments, the compositions have a weight ratio between the total amount of basic amino acids and glycine betaine greater than 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the compositions have a weight ratio between the total amount of basic amino acids and . The total amount of carboxylic acids is greater than approximately 0.75, preferably ranging from approximately 0.75 to approximately 2, and more preferably from approximately 0.8 to approximately 1.5. Optionally, the compositions may include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof. In embodiments where the composition includes serine, the amount of serine may range from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2%, preferably from approximately 0.05% to approximately 1.5%, more preferably from approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, and more preferably from approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In addition, the compositions may have a weight ratio between the total amount of basic amino acids and serine greater than about 2, preferably in the range of about 2 to about 15, more preferably about 4 to about 14, more preferably about 6 to about 13, and most preferably about 8 to about 12, and / or a weight ratio between glycine betaine and serine greater than about 2, preferably in the range of about 2 to about 10, more preferably about 3 to about 8, more preferably about 3.5 to about 7, and most preferably about 4 to about 6.

[0017] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one penetration-enhancing solvent, (b) at least one carboxylic amino acid or one of its salts, preferably selected from arginine and / or one of its salts, (c) at least one betaine derivative, preferably selected from glycine betaine, (d) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid and / or their salts, and (e) water.For example, the composition may comprise (a) at least one penetration-enhancing solvent selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or mixtures thereof, (b) about 4% to about 6% arginine, (c) about 1.5% to about 3.5% glycine betaine, (d) at least one carboxylic acid, (e) water, and (f) optionally serine, wherein the total amount of penetration-enhancing solvents is from about 2% to about 50%, preferably from about 5% to about 45%, more preferably from about 7% to about 40%, more preferably still from about 8% to about 35%, and most preferably from about 8% to about 30%, and wherein all the amounts are by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than about 7, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.In various embodiments, the compositions have a weight ratio of arginine to glycine betaine greater than or equal to about 5, such as greater than 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the compositions have a weight ratio of arginine to total carboxylic acids greater than or equal to approximately 0.5 or greater than approximately 0.7, preferably ranging from approximately 0.75 to approximately 2, and more preferably from approximately 0.8 to approximately 1.5. Optionally, the compositions may include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof. In embodiments where the composition includes serine, the amount of serine may range from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2%, preferably from approximately 0.05% to approximately 1.5%, more preferably from approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, and more preferably from approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In addition, the compositions may have a weight ratio between the amount of arginine and serine greater than about 2, preferably in the range of about 2 to about 15, more preferably from about 4 to about 14, more preferably from about 6 to about 13, and most preferably from about 8 to about 12, and / or a weight ratio between glycine betaine and serine greater than about 2, preferably in the range of about 2 to about 10, more preferably from about 3 to about 8, more preferably from about 3.5 to about 7, and most preferably from about 4 to about 6.

[0018] The disclosure also relates to methods for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising applying a composition according to the disclosure to the keratin fibers.The processes may, for example, be processes for reducing, preventing and / or repairing damage, and / or may be processes for improving the general health and appearance of the hair.

[0019] The disclosure further relates to methods for improving the penetration of at least one active agent into keratin fibers, the methods comprising the inclusion of at least one penetration-enhancing solvent in a composition comprising the active agent or agents, wherein the at least one penetration-enhancing solvent is selected from polyols, preferably diols and / or triols, for example propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, or mixtures of two or more of these, and the at least one active agent is selected from amino acids, osmolytes, carboxylic acids, or combinations of two or more of these. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0020] [Fig.1A], [Fig.1B] Figures 1A-1B are graphs showing the elasticity of the hair fibers of samples S1-S8 after one treatment (IA) and five treatments (IB).

[0021] [Fig.2A], [Fig.2B] Figures 2A-2B are graphs showing the elasticity of hair fibers from samples S9-S16 after one treatment (2A) and five treatments (2B).

[0022] [Fig.3] Fig.3 is a graph showing the elasticity of the capillary fibers of samples S17-S21 after five treatments.

[0023] [Fig.4A], [Fig.4B] Figures 4A-4B are graphs showing the constraint of breakage of hair fibers treated with compositions according to disclosure and comparative compositions.

[0024] [Fig. 5A], [Fig. 5B] Figures 5A-5B show the structure of some osmolytes examples that may be included in compositions according to the disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0025] The disclosure relates to compositions and methods for improving the penetration of active agents for the treatment of keratin fibers, such as hair, for example, active agents for repairing damaged keratin fibers, providing strength to keratin fibers, and / or reducing the elasticity of keratin fibers. The compositions comprise at least one penetration-enhancing solvent and at least one active agent. The methods comprise improving the penetration of active agents into keratin fibers as well as treating keratin fibers, for example, hair, with the compositions. I. COMPOSITIONS

[0026] The compositions according to this disclosure comprise at least one penetration-enhancing solvent and at least one active agent. Penetration-enhancing solvents

[0027] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one penetration-enhancing solvent selected from among the polyols. It has been surprisingly discovered that these solvents are particularly effective at improving the penetration of active agents into hair fibers, even in the presence of product buildup on the surface of the hair fibers.

[0028] In various embodiments, the polyols may be selected from diols and triols. In other embodiments, the polyols may be selected from C2-C16 polyols, such as C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3-C8 polyols. In various embodiments, the polyols that may be used are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted. Thus, in various embodiments, one or more polyols may be chosen from C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8 or C3-C8 diols, or C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8 or C3-C8 triols, any one of which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.

[0029] By way of non-limiting example, polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol, may be chosen.In some embodiments, the polyols may be selected from propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-Dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-l,2-diol, 2-ethyl-l,3-hexanediol, 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol, or combinations of two or more of these.In some preferred embodiments, the polyols are selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and combinations of two or more of these. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the penetration-enhancing solvent comprises at least one polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, glycerin, or combinations of two or more of these.In at least some preferred embodiments, the penetration-enhancing solvent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more C2-C16 diols and / or C2-C16 triols, for example C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols. In other preferred embodiments, the penetration-enhancing solvent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more glycols, for example propylene glycol and / or dipropylene glycol, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the penetration-enhancing solvent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dipropylene glycol.

[0030] The total amount of penetration-enhancing solvents can vary and, in various embodiments, can range from about 2% to about 65%, for example, from about 4% to about 60%, from about 6% to about 55%, from about 8% to about 50%, from about 9% to about 45%, from about 10% to about 40%, from about 12% to about 38%, or from about 15% to about 35% by weight, relative to weight total composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of penetration-enhancing solvents may range from approximately 2% to approximately 20%, such as, for example, from approximately 4% to approximately 16%, from approximately 6% to approximately 14%, from approximately 8% to approximately 12%, or from approximately 9% to approximately 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In still other embodiments, the total amount of penetration-enhancing solvents may range from approximately 2% to approximately 50%, preferably from approximately 5% to approximately 45%, more preferably from approximately 7% to approximately 40%, more preferably from approximately 8% to approximately 35%, and most preferably from approximately 8% to approximately 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least about 5%, such as at least about 8%, or at least about 10% of penetration-enhancing solvent(s).

[0031] For example, in some embodiments, the total quantity of penetration-enhancing solvents may range from about 5% to about 50%, from about 8% to about 45%, from about 8% to about 40%, from about 8% to about 35%, from about 8% to about 30%, from about 8% to about 25%, from about 10% to about 45%, from about 10% to about 40%, from about 10% to about 35%, from about 10% to about 30%, from about 10% to about 25%, from about 12% to about 45%, from about 12% to about 40%, from about 12% to about 35%, from about 12% to about 30%, from about 12% to about 25%, from about 15% to about 45%, from about 15% to about 45%, from about 15% to about 45%, from about 15% to about 45%, from about 15% to about 45%, from about 15% to about 45%, from about 15% to about 45%, from about 15% to about 45%, from about 4 ... % to about 40%, from about 15% to about 35%, from about 15% to about 30%, from about 15% to about 25%, from about 18% to about 45%, from about 18% to about 40%, from about 18% to about 35%, from about 18% to about 30%, or from about 18% to about 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] In other embodiments, the total quantity of penetration-enhancing solvents may range from about 5% to about 15%, for example, from about 5% to about 14%, from about 5% to about 13%, from about 5% to about 12%, from about 5% to about 11%, from about 5% to about 10%, from about 6% to about 15%, from about 6% to about 14%, from about 6% to about 13%, from about 6% to about 12%, from about 6% to about 11%, from about 6% to about 10%, from about 7% to about 15%, from about 7% to about 14%, from about 7% to about 13%, from about 7% to about 12%, from about 7% to about 11%, from about 7% to about 10%, from approximately 8% to approximately 15%, from approximately 8% to approximately 14%, from approximately 8% to approximately 13%, from approximately 8% to approximately 12%, from approximately 8% to approximately 11%, from approximately 8% to approximately 10%, from approximately 9% to approximately 15%, from approximately 9% to approximately 14%, from approximately 9% to approximately 13%, from approximately 9% to approximately 12%, from approximately 9% to approximately 11%,or approximately 9% to approximately 10%, or is approximately 5%, approximately 6%, approximately 7%, about 8%, about 9%, about 10%, about 11%, about 12%, about 13%, about 14%, about 15%, about 16%, about 17%, about 18%, about 19%, about 20%, about 21%, about 22%, about 23%, about 24% or about 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0033] In at least some embodiments, the penetration-enhancing solvent comprises propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin or a mixture of two or more of these, and the total amount of penetration-enhancing solvents ranges from about 5% to about 40%, preferably from about 8% to about 35% or from about 10% to about 30%, or ranges from about 2% to about 20%, for example from about 4% to about 18%, from about 5% to about 15%, or from about 7% to about 14% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another preferred embodiment, the penetration-enhancing solvent consists of, or is substantially composed of, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, or a mixture of two or more of these, and the total amount of penetration-enhancing solvents ranges from about 5% to about 40%, preferably from about 8% to about 35% or from about 10% to about 30%, or ranges from about 2% to about 20%.for example, from about 4% to about 18%, from about 5% to about 15%, or from about 7% to about 14% by weight, or is about 5%, about 6%, about 7%, about 8%, about 9%, about 10%, about 11%, about 12%, about 13%, about 14%, about 15%, about 16%, about 17%, about 18%, about 19%, about 20%, about 21%, about 22%, about 23%, about 24%, or about 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0034] In another preferred embodiment, the penetration-enhancing solvent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of C2-C16 diols and / or C2-C16 triols, for example C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols, and the total amount of penetration-enhancing solvents ranges from about 2% to about 50%, preferably from about 5% to about 45%, more preferably from about 7% to about 40%, more preferably still from about 8% to about 35%, and most preferably from about 8% to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In another preferred embodiment, the penetration-enhancing solvent comprises, consists mainly of, or consists of C2-C16 diols and / or C2-C16 triols, for example C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols, and the total amount of penetration-enhancing solvents ranges from about 2% to about 50%, preferably from about 5% to about 45%, more preferably from about . 7% to about 40%, more preferably from about 8% to about 35%, and most preferably from about 8% to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Active agents

[0035] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one active agent. The active agents that may be used include amino acids, osmolytes, carboxylic acids, and combinations of two or more of these. In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one osmolyte, at least one amino acid, and at least one carboxylic acid. Amino acids

[0036] Optionally, the compositions as disclosed include at least one amino acid. Optionally, in various embodiments, the compositions as disclosed may include one, two, or three amino acids. The amino acids that may be chosen include those that are basic, acidic, or neutral at neutral pH. In preferred embodiments, the compositions include at least one basic amino acid.

[0037] As used herein, the term "amino acid" includes amino carboxylic acids and their salts, as well as amino sulfonic acids and their salts. As used herein, amino acids are understood to be organic compounds containing a carboxylic acid group (-COOH) (amino carboxylic acids) and / or a sulfonic acid group (-S(=O)2-OH) (amino sulfonic acids) and an amino group (-NH2) which may be primary or secondary, or may be intracyclic, as well as a side chain (R group) specific to each amino acid.

[0038] Aminocarboxylic acids that may be chosen include, for example, alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and combinations of two or more of these.Examples of aminosulfonic acids include aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and combinations of two or more of these.

[0039] Amino acid salts are also included in the term "amino acid," whether or not this is explicitly stated. By way of non-limiting example, salts that may be chosen include organic or mineral-based salts, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts.

[0040] Furthermore, amino acids can be of D-, L- or DL- configuration. In some preferred embodiments, it is advantageous to choose amino acids of L- configuration, for example L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, L-lysine, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0041] In certain embodiments, it is particularly advantageous to choose one or more aminocarboxylic acids. Thus, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids of formula (I): COOH (I) H.......C ....... N(H)0 R

[0042] in which:

[0043] - p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and

[0044] • when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, the latter being able to be substituted by one or more groups chosen from the hydroxyl or alkyl group (in Cl-C4); or

[0045] • when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (in C1-C12) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (in C1-C4), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.

[0046] In certain embodiments when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising a 5-membered ring, this ring not being substituted.

[0047] In certain embodiments, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated alkyl group, linear or branched (C1-C4), optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring. In certain embodiments, p is preferably equal to 2.

[0048] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the aforementioned elements (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some embodiments, the amino acid compounds in the composition consist essentially of, or are composed of, amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the aforementioned elements (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more of these.

[0049] In some embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of proline and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of methionine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the acid or amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of serine and / or its salts.In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of histidine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lysine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of basic amino acids and / or their salts.

[0050] In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids may range from approximately 0.1% to approximately 15%, such as from approximately 0.1% to approximately 12%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3% from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1%, from approximately 1% to approximately 15%, from approximately 1% to approximately 12%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4.5%from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3.5%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2.5%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 1.5%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5.5%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4.5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, from about 1.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 6% from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 3% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4%, from approximately 3% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3.5% % to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 4% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 7% %, from about 4.5% to about 6%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, or about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In preferred embodiments, the total amount of amino acids varies from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, or from about 4.8% to about 5.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amino acids may be about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1%, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4% or about 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of basic amino acids in any of the preceding ranges and amounts.

[0051] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions comprise arginine and / or one of its salts. In another preferred embodiment, where more than one amino acid is present, arginine is present in the composition in an amount greater than the combined amounts of the other amino acid(s) present; for example, arginine comprises more than approximately 50%, such as more than approximately 60%, more than approximately 70%, more than approximately 80%, more than approximately 90%, more than approximately 95%, more than approximately 98%, or more than approximately 99% of all the amino acids present in the composition. In yet another preferred embodiment, arginine is the only basic amino acid in the composition.

[0052] In various preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 10%, for example from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, preferably from about 3% to about 7%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, more preferably from about 4% to about 6%, more preferably from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, more preferably still from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, and even more preferably from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, and most preferably from about 4.8% to about 5.2%, or may be present in an amount of about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1%, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, or about 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0053] In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the disclosure include serine and / or one of its salts. If present, the amount of serine can range from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2%, such as approximately 0.01% to approximately 1.5%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 1%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.4%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.3%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.2%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.1%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 1.5%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.4%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.3%, and approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.2%. from about 0.05% to about 0.1%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1% or from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, in some preferred embodiments, compositions may comprise serine in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, and most preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, such as about 0.1%, about 0.25%, about 0.5%, about 0.75%, or about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0054] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to select at least one basic amino acid and at least one additional amino acid selected from among the acidic and / or neutral amino acids. For example, in preferred embodiments, it may be advantageous to include at least one basic amino acid and serine in the compositions according to the disclosure, and to select total amounts of basic amino acids and serine such that the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of basic amino acids and the total amount of serine that is greater than about 2, such as greater than about 3, greater than about 4, greater than about 5, or greater than about 6.For example, the composition may exhibit a weight ratio between the total amount of basic amino acids and the total amount of serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, such as about 4 to about 14, about 6 to about 13, about 8 to about 12, or about 9 to about 11. In other examples, the weight ratio between the total amount of basic amino acids and serine may be about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12. In some preferred embodiments, the composition includes serine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0055] In still other preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise serine and arginine, and have a weight ratio of arginine to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits. Osmolytes

[0056] Osmolytes are molecules, typically of lower molecular weight, used by cells to maintain cell volume, regulate osmotic pressure, and maintain cellular homeostasis, for example, in response to environmental stressors. Organic osmolytes include aminocarboxylic acids, aminosulfonic acids, their salts and derivatives, carbohydrates such as sugars and sugar alcohols (polyols), polyamines, betaines, methylsulfonium compounds (e.g., dimethylsulfonopropionate), and urea. For the purposes of this disclosure, "osmolytes" include amino carboxylic acid derivatives, amino sulfonic acid derivatives, and salts of derivatives (collectively referred to herein as "amino acid derivatives"), but do not include amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, or their salts that are described above, and do not include polyols.

[0057] Optionally, the compositions according to the disclosure include one or more osmolytes, preferably one or more organic osmolytes. In some embodiments, the compositions include more than one osmolyte. Without wishing to elaborate on this, it is estimated that the use of osmolytes as active agents in the compositions according to the disclosure allows treated hair to maintain moisture balance, thereby reducing potential hair damage, or to restore moisture balance to already damaged hair, thus allowing treated hair to recover reduced strength and / or elasticity associated with healthy hair.

[0058] In preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more osmolytes selected from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, amino acid derivatives such as betaines, and more preferably selected from compounds of formula (II) or their salts:

[0059] (Rl)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (II)

[0060] in which:

[0061] - RI, R2 and R3 are chosen independently from among the alkyl groups in C1-C4, of preferentially alkyl groups in C1-C2, more preferentially a methyl group;

[0062] - A is N or S;

[0063] - m and n are independently equal to 0 or 1;

[0064] - X is a divalent alkyl group (= an alkylene group), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl (-OH) or an amino (-NH2) and

[0065] - Y is -COO- or -OSO3- ;

[0066] subject to the following:

[0067] • when A is equal to S, in this case m = 0 and R4 and R5 are chosen independently among a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), (Cl-ClO), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH or -CONH2;

[0068] • when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl (in C1-C8) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (at C1-C4); and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring links, preferably 5 to 6 ring links, knowing that this ring can be substituted with one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl or an alkyl group (at C1-C4); and

[0069] • when A is equal to N and m = 1, in this case R4 and R5 are chosen independently among a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains) (Cl-C10), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.

[0070] Useful, but not limiting, polyamine compounds may include primary and / or secondary and / or tertiary and / or quaternary amine functional groups. By way of example, polyamines that may be selected include diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, and polyamines or polyamines Polymers, such as, for example, hexamethylenediamine, diethylenetetramine, diethylenetriamine, polyethyleneimine (PEI), polyvinylamine, polyetheramine, polylysine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, cadaverine, spermidine, spermine, putrescine, tetraethylmethylenediamine, triethylenetetramine, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the useful polyamines are selected from putrescine, spermidine, and / or spermine.

[0071] Useful, but not limiting, examples of betaines include glycine betaine, valine betaine, alanine betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, etc. Salts of betaines may also be used and are expressly included in the term "betaine" unless otherwise expressly stated. In particularly preferred embodiments, the betaines are selected from those corresponding to formula (II). Examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include the compounds shown in Figures 5A and 5B. As shown in [Fig. 5A], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) are in zwitterionic form, and as shown in [Fig. 5B], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) have a corresponding counterion, X.The counterion is not limited and can be any suitable counterion, for example a chloride ion, a bromide ion, an iodide ion, a sulfate anion, a sulfonate anion, a methyl sulfate anion, a phosphate anion, a nitrate anion, etc. Thus, as used here, a "compound of formula (II)" expressly includes both the ionic form of the compound and the salt forms, whether or not this is specified.

[0072] As shown in Figures 5A and 5B, examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include betaine and betaine derivatives (referred to herein as "betaines"), for example, valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyllysine, glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), histidine betaine, N-methylhistidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, and / or sulfoniopropionate of dimethyl. In a preferred embodiment, the osmolyte is glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), alone or in combination with one or more additional osmolytes, for example one or more additional compounds of formula (II).

[0073] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II). In additional preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more compounds of formula (II), i.e., a zwitterionic amino acid derivative bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising a total of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0074] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = methyl; A is N; and / or Y is COO-. In some other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which R3 is a methyl. In other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl or amino. In still other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated,having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene. In other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a saturated alkyl group, linear or branched (in Cl-ClO), preferably (C1-C6 alkyl), more preferably (C1-C4 alkyl); a phenyl group; a benzyl group; an alkyl group substituted by a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono- or bi-cyclic); a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono- or bi-cyclic) substituted by an alkyl group; all these groups being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-,or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2; more preferably where R4 is hydrogen and / or where R5 is a hydrogen atom or a saturated (C1-C6) alkyl group, linear or branched, more preferably a (C1-C4) alkyl group; optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -COOH or -CONH2. In some preferred embodiments, when A is N and m = 0, R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising a 5- to 8-membered ring, preferably a 5- to 6-membered ring, optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group. In other preferred embodiments, RI = R2 = methyl, A is N, Y is COO-, and X (if any) is a divalent alkyl group which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms.

[0075] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = R3 = methyl; A is N; Y is COO-; X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group chosen from hydroxyl or amino, more preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene; R4 is hydrogen; and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring links, preferably 5 to 6 ring links, optionally substituted by a hydroxy group.

[0076] In preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one osmolyte, and the osmolyte comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more of the compounds shown in Figures 5A and 5B. In more preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise trimethylglycine (interchangeably called glycine betaine), optionally in combination with at least one additional osmolyte, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of glycine betaine optionally with at least one additional compound of formula (II).

[0077] Useful, but not limiting, examples of carbohydrate sugars that may be used include C3-C6 monosaccharides, for example pentoses and / or their derivatives, or hexoses and / or their derivatives. For example, sugars may optionally be chosen from xylose, arabinose, ribose, 2-deoxyribose, ribulose, deoxyribulose, arabinose, xylulose, allose, altrose, glucose (including dextrose), glucosamine, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, tagatose, or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some embodiments, the sugars are chosen from among the disaccharides, for example sucrose (also saccharose), maltose, lactose, cellobiose, trehalose, dextran, or from among the polysaccharides, for example maltotriose, starch, dextrins, cellulose, glycogen, or combinations of two or more of these.In some embodiments, the sugars are preferentially chosen from trehalose, glucose, sucrose, fructose, fructans, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0078] In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition can range from about 0.01% to about 15%, such as, for example, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1 % to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7% from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2.25% to about 10%, from about 2.25% to about 9%, from about 2.25% to about 8%, from about 2.25% to about 7%, from about 2.25% to about 6%, from about 2.25% to about 5%, from about 2.25% to about 4%, from about 2.25% to about 3%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may be about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9% or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0079] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one betaine, and the total amount of betaines ranges from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example, from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or possibly from about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9% or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0080] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises glycine betaine in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example, from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, even more preferably from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or glycine betaine may be present in an amount of about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0081] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose the amounts of amino acids and osmolytes so as to obtain a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts in the composition and the total amount of osmolytes in the composition greater than about 0.1, for example greater than about 0.2, greater than about 0.5, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In various embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts to the total amount of osmolytes may range from about 0.1 to about 10, for example from about 0.2 to about 8, from about 0.5 to about 6, from about 1 to about 5, from about 1.2 to about 4, or from about 1.5 to about 3.5.In other embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts to the total amount of osmolytes may range from more than 1 to about 4, for example from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) in the composition and the total amount of osmolytes in the composition may be about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4 or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower bounds.

[0082] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of amino acids selected from compounds of formula (I) and a total amount of osmolytes selected from compounds of formula (II) such that a weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):components of formula (II) is greater than about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1, for example, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In some embodiments, the weight ratio between compounds of formula (I) and compounds of formula (II) in the composition may range from about 0.5 to about 6, for example, from about 1 to about 4, from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from approximately 1.8 to approximately 2.2. For example, the weight ratio of compound formulas (I): compounds of formula (II) in the composition may be of about 0.5, about 0.6, about 0.7, about 0.8, about 0.9, about 1, about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower bounds.

[0083] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of arginine to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example ranging from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.In another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine, serine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of [arginine + serine] to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. Carboxylic acids

[0084] Optionally, the compositions according to the disclosure may include at least one carboxylic acid. According to various embodiments of the invention, the useful carboxylic acids comprise organic compounds that include, for example, one (mono-), two (di-), three (tri-) acid functional groups or more and at least one carbon atom.

[0085] The carboxylic acids that may be used may optionally have a molecular weight less than approximately 500 g / mol, less than approximately 400 g / mol, less than approximately 300 g / mol, or less than approximately 200 g / mol. In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids have a molecular weight less than approximately 300 g / mol or less than approximately 200 g / mol.

[0086] Salts of carboxylic acids may also be used and are expressly included in the term "carboxylic acid," unless otherwise expressly stated. Salts include organic or mineral-based salts, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred in some embodiments, and in particular, sodium salts.

[0087] In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 14 carbon atoms. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and / or one of their salts. These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid-type compounds described above. The useful (poly)acids comprise at least one -COOH group (in acidic or salt form); They can thus include a single -COOH group (monoacid) or can include more than one, for example two -COOH groups (in acid or salified form), or two or three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form) (polyacids).The useful (poly)acids also include at least one -OH group, such as one to three or two to three -OH groups, for example, one, two, or three -OH groups. Preferably, the (poly)acids comprise a total of two to eight or three to six carbon atoms and two to three -OH groups, and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably saturated and linear. In some preferred embodiments, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise a total of three to six carbon atoms, one to three -OH groups, and two to three -COOH groups (in acid or salt form). Unless otherwise specified, as used herein, the term "(poly)acid" includes both monoacids and polyacids.

[0088] Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids that may be chosen include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lactic acid and / or one of its salts.

[0089] Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids that may be selected include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the compositions may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0090] Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In certain modes of In preparation, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of citric acid and / or one of its salts.

[0091] In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In particularly preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids are selected from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, or citric acid and their salts, especially alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts.In certain embodiments, it may be particularly advantageous to choose citric acid, lactic acid and / or tartaric acid and / or their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate and, preferably, citric acid and / or its salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

[0092] The total amount of carboxylic acid(s) can range from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 1% to about 15%, such as about 1% to about 12%, about 1% to about 10%, about 1% to about 9%, about 1% to about 8%, about 1% to about 7%, about 1% to about 6%, about 1% to about 5.5%, about 1% to about 5%, about 1% to about 4.5%, about 1% to about 4%, about 1% to about 3.5%, about 1% to about 3%, about 1% to about 2.5%, about 1% to about 2%, about 1% to about 1.5%, about 1.5% to about 15%, about 1.5% to about 12%, about 1.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5.5%from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4.5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2.5%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 2% to about 12%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5.5%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4.5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3.5%, from about 2% to about 3%, from approximately 2% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 3% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4%, from approximately 3% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 4% to approximately 15%from approximately 4% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 5% to approximately 6.5%, from approximately 5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 5%5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 6.5%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 6% to approximately 15%, from approximately 6% to approximately 12%, from approximately 6% to approximately 10%, from approximately 6% to approximately 9%, from approximately 6% to approximately 8%, from approximately 6% to approximately 7%, or from approximately 6% to approximately 6.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] In preferred embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acid(s) ranges from approximately 0.5% to approximately 20%, for example, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 6.5%, from approximately 5.7% to approximately 6.3%, or from approximately 5.8% to approximately 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a total amount of carboxylic acids and salts ranging from approximately 0.5% to approximately 20%, such that from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, preferably from about 4.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably still from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, and most preferably from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose quantities of amino acids and carboxylic acids such that the composition has a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acids and the total quantity of carboxylic acids greater than about 0.75. For example, in various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acids and the total quantity of carboxylic acids greater than about 0.8, such as greater than about 0.9, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.1, greater than about 1.2, greater than about 1.3, greater than about 1.4, or greater than about 1.5. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and the total amount of carboxylic acids ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, for example from about 0.8 to about 1.5, from about 0.8 to about 1.35, or from about 0.8 to about 1.2.In some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine and at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.35, and most preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.2. Additional solvents

[0095] The compositions according to the disclosure optionally include at least one solvent in addition to the penetration-enhancing solvents mentioned above. In various embodiments, additional solvents may be selected from water, non-aqueous solvents other than the penetration-enhancing solvents mentioned above, or a combination thereof.

[0096] In some embodiments, the additional solvent includes water. In some embodiments, the composition comprises from about 50% to about 98% water, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition comprises water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 95% by weight, such as from about 50% to about 90%, from about 55% to about 90%, from about 60% to about 90%, or from about 60% to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] In other embodiments, the additional solvent may include at least one non-aqueous solvent other than the penetration-enhancing solvents mentioned above. Examples of additional non-aqueous solvents that may be used include, for instance, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, laminar lipid materials, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0098] If present, the total amount of additional non-aqueous solvents in the composition can range from about 0.001% to about 10%, such as from about 0.01% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, or from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] In some preferred embodiments, the additional solvent comprises water and at least one additional non-aqueous solvent, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranging from about 0.01% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants

[0100] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally include at least one surfactant. For example, the compositions may include one or more additional surfactants and / or amphoteric substances and, in some cases, the compositions may include mixtures of surfactants having the same or different ionicities.

[0101] Although the compositions may optionally include one or more anionic and / or nonionic surfactants, in at least some embodiments the compositions are free or substantially free of anionic and / or nonionic surfactants. For example, in some embodiments the compositions comprise less than about 3%, for example less than about 2.5%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.75%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1.25%, less than about 1%, less than 0.75%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.25%, less than 0.2%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, less than 0.01% or less than 0.001% of anionic and / or nonionic surfactants.

[0102] In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant. The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that is positively charged when contained in the composition(s) as disclosed. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the composition as disclosed. Non-limiting examples Useful cationic surfactants include brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyldimethyl ethylbenzylammonium chloride (Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethyl chloride hydrochloride, cysteine ​​hydrochloride, diethanolammonium phosphate POE (10) oleyl ether, diethanolammonium phosphate POE (3) oleylether, alkonium tallow chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammonium bentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride,ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquatemium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyltrihydroxyethyl propylenediamine dihydrofluoride, suiftrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations thereof. In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant selected from brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0103] Where appropriate, the total amount of cationic surfactants may be up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of cationic surfactants may be from about 0.001% to about 10%, from about 0.01% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, or from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant, and have a total amount of cationic surfactants ranging from about 0.25% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6%, and most preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] In at least some embodiments, the composition comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant. Non-limiting examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include secondary and tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives where the aliphatic radical may be a linear or branched chain and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as a carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate. Examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium cocaminopropionate, sodium cocaminodipropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium maize amphopropionate, sodium lauraminopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium maize amphopropionate, and sodium lauriminodipropionate.ammonium cocaminopropionate, ammonium cocaminodipropionate, ammonium cocoamphoacetate, ammonium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium cocoamphopropionate, ammonium maizemphopropionate, ammonium lauraminopropionate, ammonium lauroamphoacetate, ammonium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium maizemphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocaminopropionate, triethanolamine cocaminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocoamphoacetate, triethanolamine cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine cocoamphopropionate, triethanolamine maizemphopropionate, triethanolamine lauraminopropionate, triethanolamine lauroamphoacetate, triethanolamine lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, the triethanolamine lauroamphopropionate, triethanolamine maizeamphopropionate, triethanolamine lauriminodipropionate,cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium caproamphoadipropionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodipriopionate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium cocoamphoadiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium dicarboxyethylcocopropylenediamine, disodium laureth-5 carboxyamphodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium PPG-2-isodecethyl-7 carboxyamphodiacetate, lauraminopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, laurylaminopropylglycine, and lauryldiethylenediaminoglycine.

[0105] Betaine surfactants may also be used. For example, coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma-carboxypropyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, coco dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, stearyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl sulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine or cocamidopropyl betaine may be chosen.

[0106] If present, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be from about 0.001% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In at least some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of amphoteric surfactants. Fatty compounds

[0107] Optionally, the compositions according to the disclosure may include at least one fatty compound. In some embodiments, the at least one fatty compound may be selected from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal, silicone and non-silicone oils, silicone and non-silicone waxes, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0108] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, which may optionally be aminofunctionalized. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils that may be used include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. For example, the composition may include at least one silicone selected from amodimethicone, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-3 / 10 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-4 / 12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate of PEG-10 dimethicone, or a mixture of two or more of these. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include a silicone oil that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dimethicone, amodimethicone, or a mixture thereof.

[0109] In other examples, the silicone oil may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyl-diphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.

[0110] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from fatty alcohols. In some embodiments, "fatty alcohol" means any alcohol with a carbon chain of C5 or more, such as, for example, C8 or more, C10 or more, or C12 or more, such as from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated or non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.

[0111] By way of example, fatty alcohols may be selected from arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, or combinations of two or more of these. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include a fatty alcohol component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

[0112] Useful, but not limited, fatty acids may be linear- or branched-chain fatty acids and / or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids, as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include, or be selected from, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, or combinations thereof.

[0113] In certain embodiments, fatty acid esters or fatty alcohol esters may be chosen. Esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or C1-C26 branched, linear or branched C1-C26, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26, aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10, may be used by example. In other embodiments, C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acid esters and C1-C22 alcohol esters and C2-C26 mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acid esters and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. By way of non-limiting examples, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methylacetyl ricinoleate, myristyle stearate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, the octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates,2-Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-Octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyle or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, stearoyl stearate octyldodecyl, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate,Trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, and / or polyethylene glycol distearates may be selected. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one fatty acid ester and / or one fatty alcohol ester, for example pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.

[0114] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one wax. Non-limiting examples of waxes that can be used include beeswax, hydrogenated olive alkyl esters, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax, rice wax, rice bran wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, palm kernel glycerides / hydrogenated palm glycerides, palm butter, sumac wax, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax, theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, siliconyl candelilla wax, China wax, cetyl palmitate, lanolin, shellac, Spermaceti, cetyl esters, hydrogenated castor wax; triglyceride esters such as tribehenin (glyceryl tribehenate); synthetic waxes such as hydrocarbon waxes and polyethylene waxes obtained by the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, polypropylene waxes, or mixtures of two or more of any of these waxes. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include a wax component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl esters.

[0115] In certain embodiments, the composition comprises one or more fatty compounds selected from oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin (for example, lanolin, squalene, fish oil, perhydrosqualene, mink oil, tortoiseshell oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, cucumber oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, tamanu oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, candlenut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, or shea butter), linear or branched hydrocarbons (for example, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, and / or linear alkanes,branched and / or cyclic fatty acids that are optionally volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane), optionally branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids (for example, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid), fatty alcohols other than those described above (for example, alkoxylated fatty alcohols), mono- and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols (for example, mono- and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, C5-C9 dipentaerythrityl esters, trimethylolpropane polyesters, propylene glycol polyesters or castor oil polyesters) hydrogenated oils), perfluorinated and / or organofluorinated oils, fluorosilicone oils,or mixtures of two or more of these. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids that may be used include facultatively branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, or mixtures of two or more of these.

[0116] If present, the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition may range from approximately 0.1% to approximately 20% by weight, as well as from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, or from approximately 5% to approximately 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In certain modes of preferred realizations, the compositions comprise at least one fatty compound selected from silicone oils, fatty alcohols, waxes or combinations thereof, where the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 15%, more preferably from about 3% to about 12%, and most preferably from about 5% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening agents

[0117] The compositions according to the disclosure optionally include at least one thickening agent. Useful thickening agents include, but are not limited to, semi-synthetic polymers, such as semi-synthetic cellulosic derivatives; synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers and beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymers; acrylate copolymers; polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEL10); natural polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan; vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, petroleum jelly; waxes; associated particulate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide and microcrystalline cellulose; celluloses, such as hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and guars, such as hydroxypropyl guar.

[0118] In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be selected from associative thickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative polymers, or nonionic associative polymers. A non-limiting example of an amphoteric associative polymer is beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymer, and non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include acrylate copolymer and acrylates-4 crosslinked polymer.

[0119] If present, the total amount of thickening agents in the composition can range from about 0.01% to about 8% by weight, as well as from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.3% to about 2%, relative to the total weight of the composition. Auxiliary components

[0120] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more auxiliary components. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, ceramides, botanical extracts, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, buffers, sequestering agents, and the like.

[0121] The total quantity of auxiliary components, if present, is typically in the range of about 0.01% to about 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the individual quantities of each component or the total quantity of components may range from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3%, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] The compositions according to the disclosure generally have a pH less than or equal to 7, such as less than or equal to about 6, less than or equal to about 5, less than or equal to about 4.5, or less than or equal to about 4. For example, the compositions may have a pH ranging from about 1 to about 7, for example from about 2 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5, from about 2.5 to about 5, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3 to about 4. In some embodiments, the pH of the composition may be, for example, about 3, about 3.25, about 3.5, about 3.75, or about 4, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0123] The compositions may be in any suitable form. For example, the compositions may be a liquid, a gel, a gel-cream, a high, medium or low density cream, a serum, a lotion, etc. II. PROCESSES

[0124] The disclosure further relates to methods for improving the penetration of active agents into keratin fibers, for example, hair. The methods include the inclusion of at least one penetration-enhancing solvent as described herein in a composition comprising at least one active agent. The active agents may, in various embodiments, comprise at least one amino acid, at least one osmolyte, and / or at least one carboxylic acid, as described herein. For example, in some preferred embodiments, the active agent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of at least one amino acid and / or one of its salts and at least one osmolyte. In other preferred embodiments, the active agent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of at least one basic amino acid, a glycine betaine, and at least one carboxylic acid.In other preferred embodiments, the active agent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of arginine and / or one of its salts, glycine betaine, and citric acid and / or one of its salts.

[0125] The disclosure further relates to processes for treating keratin fibers to allow improved penetration of active agents into the hair, using compositions as disclosed. The processes are capable of to provide surprisingly greater benefits to the hair due to the increased ability of the active agents to penetrate the hair fibers. The processes include applying a composition according to the disclosure to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a period of time (the "treatment period," "resting period," or "processing time"), and optionally rinsing the composition from the hair. Although not required, various treatments using compositions according to disclosure may also include a step of heating the hair to which the composition has been applied, for example, during the drying time while the composition is on the hair. For example, a hairdryer, a hooded dryer, etc., may be used.

[0126] The exposure period may last for a period deemed appropriate to allow the active agents to provide benefits to the keratin fibers, such as approximately 30 seconds, approximately 1 minute, approximately 2 minutes, approximately 5 minutes, approximately 10 minutes, approximately 15 minutes, approximately 20 minutes, approximately 30 minutes, approximately 45 minutes, approximately 1 hour, approximately 2 hours, etc., or may extend over a period of time using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits. As a non-limiting example, the exposure time can range from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 60 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 20 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 15 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 10 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 5 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 60 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 20 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 15 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 10 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 5 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 60 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 20 minutes minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 15 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 10 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 5 minutes, etc.

[0127] Surprisingly, hair treated with compositions and processes according to the disclosure exhibits less damage than hair not treated according to the disclosure. This is achieved through successful penetration of the active agents into the hair fibers. The reduction in damage is particularly noticeable in hair damaged by aggressive chemical treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, straightening, relaxing, etc., as well as by repeated styling such as with heat or styling tools. Hair repaired using compositions and processes according to the disclosure may have lower elasticity and / or higher tensile strength than similarly damaged but untreated hair.

[0128] After describing in detail the numerous embodiments of the present invention, it will become apparent that modifications and variations are possible without departing from the scope of the disclosure defined in the appended claims. Furthermore, it should be noted that all the examples in this disclosure, while illustrating numerous embodiments of the disclosure, are provided by way of non-limiting examples and should therefore not be considered as limiting the various aspects thus illustrated. It should be understood that all definitions herein are provided only for this disclosure.

[0129] The expression "and / or" should be understood as including both the conjunctive and the disjunctive. For example, "amino acids and / or their salts" means "amino acids and their salts" as well as "amino acids or their salts", and expressly covers either one or the other.

[0130] In this document, the term "salts" throughout the disclosure may include salts containing a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, for example, in an aqueous solution.

[0131] All quantities indicated here are relative to the quantity of active material, unless otherwise stated.

[0132] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions in this disclosure, unless otherwise stated.

[0133] As used herein, all the ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of intermediate sub-ranges. Thus, a range from 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc.

[0134] As used herein, the expression "apply a composition to the hair," and its variations, is intended to refer to bringing the hair into contact with at least one of the compositions in the disclosure, in any manner whatsoever. It may also refer to bringing the hair into contact with an effective quantity.

[0135] The expression "hair treatment" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of this disclosure to the surface of the hair. The expression "hair treatment" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to bringing the hair into contact with the compositions of this disclosure.

[0136] A "rinse-off" product refers to a composition, such as a hair treatment composition, that is removed from the hair after a processing time, for example, by rinsing and / or washing with water. At least a portion, and generally the majority, of the composition is removed from the hair.

[0137] As used herein, the expressions "penetration enhancement," "enhanced penetration," "penetration stimulation," "stimulated penetration," or similar terms, of active agents mean any increase in the amount of active agents present in the hair fiber. The increase in the amount of active agents present in the hair fiber can be determined, for example, by measuring the hair denaturation temperature by differential scanning calorimetry (closed cup, crimped), where an increase in the denaturation temperature means an increase in the amount of active agents present. However, as described herein, an increase or improvement in the penetration of active agents also results in healthier, stronger, less damaged hair; this can be determined by various methods, such as, for example, tensile strength testing, elasticity measurement, etc. EXAMPLES

[0138] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory only. In the Examples, unless otherwise indicated, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active substances, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1 - Compositions

[0139] Compositions 1A-1F according to the disclosure were prepared as shown in Table 1. The pH of each of the compositions 1A-1F was approximately 3.5.

[0140] [Tables 1] IA IB IC 1D 1E 1F Aminobase(s) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Glycine betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Citric and / or lactic acid 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 Preservative(s) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Propylene glycol 3.0 5.0 10 Dipropylene glycol 3.0 5.0 10 Water QS QS QS QS QS QS

[0141] The compositions contained a synergistic combination of active agents (carboxylic acids (citric and / or lactic acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine and / or serine)), with a penetration-enhancing solvent (propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol).

[0142] Example 2 - Assessment of damage repair

[0143] In order to evaluate the ability of the compositions according to the disclosure to improve the penetration of active agents into hair fibers to minimize, prevent or repair hair damage, the following studies were conducted. Example 2A# - Ultra-bleached hair

[0144] Eight strands (S1-S8) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then seven of the strands (S1-S7) were subjected to the following treatment routines (strand S8 was not treated after the bleaching composition was rinsed from the hair).

[0145] The SI strand was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the shampoo into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.

[0146] Strands S2-S7 were each cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the lather into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, one of the compositions 1A-1F (Table 2A) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.

[0147] [Tables2] IA IB IC 1D 1E 1F Wick S2 S3 S4 S5 S6 S7 TABLE 2A

[0148] The integrity of the hair fibers of each of the strands S1-S8 was studied after the first and fifth days. Elasticity was evaluated to determine whether the hair fibers stretched, and if so, whether they returned to their original state (lower elasticity, i.e. healthy), whether the fibers stretched easily and remained stretched (higher elasticity, i.e. damaged) or whether the hair fibers broke during the tests.

[0149] The evaluation was carried out by stretching a standardized quantity of wet hair fibers, with two experts independently evaluating each strand. The experts were trained to stretch the area of ​​the strand being evaluated by uniformly applying a manual tensile force using their hands / fingers. The behavior of the strand was rated by each expert on a 6-level scale as follows, with the result reported for each strand being the average of the two:

[0150] 0 = natural and healthy hair (no damage);

[0151] 1 = low elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a slight elasticity, returning to their initial state after testing);

[0152] 2 = moderate elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a elasticity, returning to their initial state after the test);

[0153] 3 = high elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a elasticity and some hair fibers do not return to their initial state after the test);

[0154] 4 = very high elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a elasticity and most hair fibers do not return to their initial state after the test) and

[0155] 5 = immediate rupture (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a high elasticity and break during testing).

[0156] The results showed that the hair fibers of strands S2-S7, treated with one of compositions 1A-1F, surprisingly exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of strands SI or S8 both after day 1 ([Fig. 1A]) and day 5 ([Fig. 1B]). In other words, the hair in strands SI and S8 was damaged by the aggressive bleaching process, resulting in increased elasticity, while the damage to strands S2-S7 had been repaired by treatment with one of compositions 1A-1F. Example 2B# - Straight and ultra-bleached hair

[0157] Eight strands (S9-S16) of Caucasian hair that had previously been straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with an oxidizing composition commercially available hydrogen peroxide (40V) was mixed at a ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder: oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55°C for about 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then seven of the strands (S9-S15) were subjected to the following treatment routines.

[0158] Strand S9 was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand thoroughly. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair. The treatment was repeated a second time. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.

[0159] Each strand of hair S10-S15 was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand thoroughly. Immediately afterward, one of the compositions 1A-1F (Table 2B) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage of the hair. It was left to stand for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied and distributed to ensure complete coverage of the hair. It was left to stand for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly.A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in serum for use with flat irons were applied to the hair. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.

[0160] [Tables3 IA IB IC 1D 1E 1F Wick S10 SU S12 S13 S14 S15 TABLE 2B

[0161] The integrity of the hair fibers of each of the strands S9-S16 was studied in the same manner as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of the strands S10-S15, treated with one of the compositions 1A-1F, surprisingly exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of the S9 and S16 strands both after day 1 ([Fig.2A]) and day 5 ([Fig.2B]).

[0162] Examples 2A-2B thus demonstrate that the compositions according to the disclosure remarkably improve the penetration of the active agents into damaged hair fibers, enabling the active agents to repair the damage. Remarkably, Example 2B demonstrates that this benefit is observed even with hair that exhibits a substantial accumulation of hair products coated onto the hair fibers. Example 3 - Compositions

[0163] Compositions 2A-2E according to the disclosure were prepared as indicated in Table 3.

[0164] [Tables4] 2A 2B 2C 2D 2E Dipropylene glycol 10 10 10 10 10 Aminobase(s) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Glycine betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Citric acid 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 Silicone oil(s) (dimethicone and / or amodimethicone) 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 1.0 Fatty alcohol(s) (stearyl alcohol and / or cetearyl alcohol) 4.5 4.5 6.0 5.0 6.0 Cetyl esters 1.0 Cationic surfactant(s) (cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride and / or Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine) 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.5 1.6 Amphoteric surfactant(s) 1.1 1.1 1.1 0.2 Thickener(s) 0.8 1.0 1.5 1.5 0.4 Isopropyl alcohol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.5 0.4 Auxiliary component(s) (pH adjusters, preservatives, vitamins, extracts) <2 <2 <2 <2 <2 Water QS QS QS QS QS pH measured 3.7 3.7 3.7 3.7 4.0

[0165] TABLE 3

[0166] The compositions contained a synergistic combination of active agents (carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine)), with a penetration-enhancing solvent (dipropylene glycol).

[0167] Example 4 - Assessment of damage repair

[0168] In order to evaluate the ability of the compositions according to the disclosure to improve the penetration of active agents into damaged hair fibers to minimize, prevent or repair hair damage, the following studies were conducted.

[0169] A comparator product, Cl, had the following list of ingredients on the packaging: Water (Aqua / Eau), bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate, propylene glycol, cetearyl alcohol, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, glycerin, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, quaternium-91, sodium benzoate, cetrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium chloride, parfum, tetrasodium EDTA, polyquaternium-37, benzyl benzoate, etidronic acid, ascorbic acid, phytantriol, tocopheryl acetate, Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice, panthenol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) seed oil, citric acid, potassium sorbate.Composition Cl, described as a "pre-shampoo hair treatment that reduces breakage and split ends for visibly healthier-looking hair," is advertised as part of a system that claims it can "restore broken disulfide bonds damaged by chemical treatments, heat, and styling." Instructions for Composition Cl are to use the product before using the shampoo ("Cl-S") and conditioner ("Cl-C") that are part of this system, both of which list bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate as the listed active ingredient.

[0170] Example 4A - Ultra-bleached hair Elasticity and resistance

[0171] Five strands (S17-S21) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then four of the strands (S17-S20) underwent the following treatment routines (strand S21 was not treated after the bleaching composition was rinsed from the hair).

[0172] The strand S17 was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, and leaving it to remain on the strand for a period of approximately one The shampoo was applied for one minute, then the strand was rinsed until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated. It was left to sit for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.

[0173] Strands S18 and S19 were each cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the lather into a foam, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, one of the compositions 2D (S18) or 2B (S19) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.

[0174] The S20 strand was treated with composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it to ensure that the hair was completely coated. Composition Cl was left on the hair for approximately five minutes, after which the strand was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately afterward, the strand was washed with Cl-S shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, conditioner Cl-C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was thoroughly rinsed. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.

[0175] Once the five treatments of the S17-S20 strands were completed, the integrity of the hair fibers of each of the S17-S21 strands was studied in the same way as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of the S18 and S19 strands, treated respectively with compositions 2D and 2B, exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of the S17 and S20-S21 strands ([Fig.3]).

[0176] Next, the strength was evaluated using a Dia-Stron fiber tensile testing instrument, the MTT (Miniature Tensile Tester). The results showed that the hairs in strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, were surprisingly stronger than the hairs in strands S17 or S20, meaning that a greater force was required to break the fibers Individual capillaries of strands S18-S19. Figure 4A shows the tensile strength (MPa) for a control strand (CONTROL), made of the same hair but unbleached, strand S17, which was bleached but without further treatment, and strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, and strand S20, treated with the comparative compositions. As shown in Figure 4A, the tensile strength of the control strand (CTL) was more than double that of strand S17, demonstrating the significant damage caused by the bleaching process. After five (5) treatments with composition 2D (strand S18), 2B (strand S19), or the comparative compositions (S20), the tensile strength of the treated strands was increased compared to strand S17.Surprisingly, the increase in breaking stress for strands S18-S19 was considered statistically significant compared to that of strand S20, meaning that compositions 2D and 2B repaired the hair to a greater extent than the comparative compositions.

[0177] Example 4B - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair: Elasticity

[0178] Eight strands (S22-S25) of Caucasian hair that had been previously The hair strands, which had been straightened using formaldehyde, were bleached with a mixture of commercially available bleaching powder and commercially available oxidizing agent (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing agent) and treated at approximately 55°C for about 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and over a five-week treatment period, the four strands were subjected to the following routine twice a week.

[0179] First, the strands were cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0180] Three of the strands (S22-S24) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines, once a week, during the 5-week period.

[0181] The strand S22 was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, leaving it to rest on the strand for a period of about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. A hair mask was applied and left on the hair, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the hair and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the hair was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were then applied to the hair.

[0182] Strand S23 was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the lather into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand thoroughly. Immediately afterward, Composition 2C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0183] The S24 strand was treated with composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it to ensure that the hair was completely coated. Composition Cl was left on the hair for approximately five minutes, after which the strand was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately afterward, the strand was washed with Cl-S shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, conditioner Cl-C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to remain on the strand for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was thoroughly rinsed.A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in serum for use with flat irons were applied to the hair.

[0184] After the five-week treatment period, the elasticity and resistance of the hair fibers of each of the strands S22-S25 were studied in the same way as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of strand S23, treated with composition 2C, had lower elasticity than the fibers of either strand S22 or S24-S25.

[0185] Example 4C - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair: Resistance

[0186] Four strands (S26-S29) of Caucasian hair that had previously been straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed and, over a five-week treatment period, the four strands were subjected to the following routine.

[0187] First, the strands were cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0188] Three of the strands (S27-S29) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines, once a week, during the 5-week period.

[0189] Strands S27 and S28 were cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. One of the compositions 2B (S28) or 2D (S27) was applied to the hair and left on, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0190] Strand S29 was treated with composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and spreading it to ensure that the hair was completely coated. Composition Cl was left on the hair for a resting period of approximately five minutes, after which the strand was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately afterwards, the strand was cleaned with shampoo Cl-S by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the shampoo into a lather, leaving it on the strand for a period of approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterwards, conditioner Cl-C was The product was applied to the strand and spread to ensure the hair was completely coated. It was left to sit for approximately five minutes, then the strand was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were then applied to the hair.

[0191] Tests were carried out with the MTT in the same manner as described in Example 4A. The results showed that the hairs of strands S27 and S28, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, were surprisingly stronger than the hairs of strands S26 or S29, meaning that a greater force was required to break the individual hair fibers of strands S27-S28. Figure 4A shows the breaking strength (MPa) for a control strand (Control), made of the same hair but unbleached, strand S26, which was bleached but without further treatment, and strands S27 and S28, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, and strand S29, treated with the comparative compositions. As shown in [Fig.4B], the breaking strength of the control strand (TEST) was approximately three times greater than that of the S26 strand, showing the significant damage caused by the bleaching process.After five (5) treatments with composition 2B (strand S28) and 2D (strand S27), the breaking strength of the treated strands was increased compared to strand S26, and the improvement was considered statistically significant. However, [Fig. 4B] shows that the breaking strength of the strand treated with the comparative composition (S29) did not show any improvement.

[0192] Examples 4A-4C thus demonstrate that the compositions as disclosed have remarkably improved the penetration of the active agents into damaged hair fibers, enabling the active agents to repair the damage. Remarkably, Example 4B demonstrates that this benefit is even observed in hair with a substantial buildup of hair product coatings on the hair fibers. The damage repair achieved with the compositions as disclosed is also remarkably superior to that achieved with a commercial product that claims to do the same.

[0193] Example 5 - Penetration-enhancing compositions

[0194] The 3A-3D compositions according to the disclosure were prepared as indicated in Table 4.

[0195] [Tables5] 3A 3B 3C 3D Dipropylene glycol 10.0 7.5 7.5 Propylene glycol 10.0 Glycerin 10.0 Aminobasic acid(s) 5.50 5.50 3.80 3.80 Thickening agent(s) 0.30 0.90 0.90 Non-ionic surfactant(s) 0.30 1.50 0.50 0.50 Amphoteric surfactant(s) 0.30 Revitalizing agent(s) 0.80 Cationic surfactant(s) 2.10 3.84 3.00 3.00 Glycine betaine 2.50 2.50 1.80 1.80 Citric acid 6.00 6.00 5.50 5.50 Wax(s) 0.50 0.50 Fatty alcohol(s) 6.30 6.30 Vegetable oil(s) 0.50 Fatty acid ester(s) 2.50 1.50 Additives (preservatives, fragrance) <2 <2 <2 <2 Water QS QS QS QS

[0196] TABLE 4

[0197] 3A-3D compositions should also allow better penetration of the active agents they contain into the hair, in order to more effectively introduce components into the hair fiber that can minimize, prevent and / or repair damage. Example 6# - Additional Compositions

[0198] The following compositions according to the disclosure may be prepared and should also similarly enhance the penetration of active agents into the hair in order to minimize, prevent or repair hair damage.

[0199] [Tableauxô] 4A 4B 4C 4D 4E Dipropylene glycol 15 Propylene glycol 2.0 12 Polyethylene glycol 5.0 10 Arginine 2.0 9.8 2.5 Lysine 2.5 2.0 10 Valine betaine 2.0 4.5 2.0 1.0 4.0 Citric acid 3 2.0 9.8 Lactic acid 2.0 10 2 Serine 0.05 0.5 0.05 0.5 Fatty compound(s) 10 8.0 9.0 15 Cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant(s) 3.0 0.5 2.5 5.0 Additional component(s) (e.g., pH adjusters, vitamins, preservatives, extracts, thickeners) <5 <5 <5 <5 <5 Water QS QS QS QS QS

[0200] TABLE 5

[0201] The above examples demonstrate that the compositions and processes according to the disclosure surprisingly and unexpectedly improve the penetration of active agents in order to minimize, prevent or repair damage to hair.

Claims

Demands

1. A method for improving the penetration of active agents into hair, the method comprising applying to hair a composition comprising: a. at least one penetration-enhancing solvent selected from polyols; b. at least one active agent selected from osmolytes; c. optionally, at least one additional active agent selected from: (i) at least one compound selected from amino acids or their salts; or (ii) at least one compound selected from carboxylic acids or their salts; and d. water in which the total amount of polyols is at least about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in which the total amount of osmolytes is at least about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and in which the pH of the composition is less than 7.

2. A process according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of polyols in the composition ranges from about 2% to about 65%, preferably from about 5% to about 50%, more preferably from about 5% to about 35%, and most preferably from about 7% to about 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. A method according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the polyols are selected from C2-C16 diols, C2-C16 triols, or combinations of two or more of these, preferably from C2-C8 diols, C2-C8 triols, or combinations of two or more of these.

4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the polyols are selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, glycerin or combinations of two or more of these.

5. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the treatment composition comprises at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, betaines or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising at least one betaine selected from the compounds of formula (II) or their salts: (R1)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (II) wherein: - RI, R2 and R3 are selected independently from C1-C4 alkyl groups; - A is N or S; - m and n are independently 0 or 1; - X is a C1-C6 divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2) and - Y is -COO- or -OSO3-;provided that: • when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2; • when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated alkyl, linear or branched (in C1-C8), and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring members, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or alkyl (in C1-C4);and • when A is N and m = 1, then R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains) (in C1-C10), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and / or; optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.

6. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition comprises at least one osmolyte selected from compounds of formula (II) selected from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyllysine, glycine betaine, histidine betaine, N-methylhistidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipericolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, their salts or combinations thereof, preferably comprising glycine betaine.

7. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the total amount of osmolytes ranges from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition comprises at least one amino acid selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these.

9. Cl. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition comprises at least one active agent selected from amino acids or their salts, and the total amount of amino acids and their salts ranges from about 2% to about 15%, preferably from about 2.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 3.5% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A method of any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition comprises at least one active agent selected from formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, acid aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts or combinations of two or more of these.

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